tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78099232806224650102024-03-19T04:20:31.690+01:00Maria and Michael on the RoadThis blog details the first of the big trips - a year on the road in Europe to celebrate the best of everything at this wonderful time in our lives.Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.comBlogger456125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-50217541767083219712022-04-15T00:40:00.001+02:002022-04-15T00:40:36.995+02:00and on the sixth day, there was fishes in the sea and animals walking the land<p>Pennicott do a wonderful range of tours including cruises. We took their southern cruise while on Bruny Island so we were very comfortable in booking their Freycinet <a href="https://www.wineglassbaycruises.com.au/" target="_blank">Cruise to Wineglass Bay</a>. We need to be at their Coles Bay office by 9 am for a cruise that departs at 9:15am, so we set the alarm for 6:30 am. Last night Gen re-packed the large suitcase (again) and so this morning we condense everything as we put things back in the car.</p><p>Up at 6:30 for a hot shower - it was cool again overnight, but not as cold as the night before, we quickly made our bit of breakfast and packed the car. We set off from the Pelican Sands Motel about 7:45 am for the hour and a quarter drive, re-tracing our route of yesterday to Bicheno (but thankfully, not the return journey over the passes). We drove through the area where the crash was yesterday but there was no evidence that anything amiss had occured. It always amazes me just how fully a site can be cleaned up, leaving nothing to suggest the earlier drama.</p><p>The trip down to Coles Bay was uneventful. So much earlier than most days, we travelled quietly, each in our own thoughts, enjoying the warming sun and beautiful vistas that greet us on every turn. The weather has been so good that we have not used the car air-conditioner much, preferring instead to wind down the car windows for some fresh air - today salt-touched, and at other times, fresh with mountain smells of leatherwood or eucalypt trees and occasionally with the hearty smell of fresh manure as we have travelled through fields of cattle or sheep.</p><p>We arrive at the Booking Office just after 9 a and were greeted with "<i>I guess you have a booking in the name of Maria?! You are the only ones with crutches!"</i> We were instructed to wait near the gangway saying that we would be boarding in time for a 9:45 am departure. Turns out, we are waiting for three parties who have not yet checked in - oh, wait, one of them is already here, just hadn't advised the office they were here. Still, the operators wait for the remaining two parties, so we are late leaving by about half an hour, Not a particularly good start! </p><p>Robert is skipper. He has 22 years in business, and there are now 17 vessels in the couple of tours they operate here in the east. Today, the lower deck (Upper Deck was + $115 all for the sake of some oysters!) is being serviced by Noah, Josh and Euan. Nice young men who are all very personable and chatty. Euan provides the safety briefing, ending with "<i>In the unlikely event we need to leave the vessel, jump in to life rafts and continue the tour as planned!</i>" ha ha ha.</p><p>As we leave Coles Bay we initially pass by The Hazards, a grouping of three mountains - Graham, Amos and Dove. These pink granite peaks, comprise quartz, feldspar and mica under a dolerite cap. They were previously mined with some blocks finding their way into the Sydney Opera House. This was one lucrative actvity that no longer operates, as was the whaling that was practised commercially until the 1802 in Great Oyster Bay, </p><p>Nowdays, more environmentally friendly tourism and managed seafood harvesting are the main operations. The extensive seagram beds are perfect for calamari and scallops grow as big as golf balls. This area provides 25% of WORLD Abalone catch and crayfish are plentiful - regularly found in areas of rockfalls as well as old wrecks - they love to play hide and seek we are tolf. </p><p>As we motor out of Coles Bay, another tour group is also leaving. In Kayaks that the boat operators refer to as speed bumps! Seriously, they are very respectful and slow down when they come upon any sea-life or other vessels of any size. Its amazing how quickly the engines can be cut and the boat come to a complete standstill. Today'sd boat is the Spirit of the Shouten. She is 23m long and powered by 2 yangmar diesel engines 700 hp each.</p><div>On the trip out to Wineglass Bay, we pass numerous points of interest and make frequent stops. to hear points of history and observe the teeming wildlife of this environment. This includes:</div><div>* Old Refuge Island that often shelters boats from the prevailing southerly winds. It is also home to a Fur seal colony. They grow up to 300 kg and can live up to 22 yrs.</div><p>This is a RAMSAR area with penguins, tern, shearwaters, comorants, albatross and sea eagles all often see. As are dolphins, seals and whales - the holy trifecta which we were lucky to see today - Bottle-nose dolphins, Austraian and NZ fur seals, and one young humpback whale heading north - very early in the season!</p><div>There are lots of rocky outcrops. Promise Rocks is named after the Ship that was wrecked. All souls survived and were rescued after the Captain, the only person who could swim, swam through shark infested waters to raise the alarm.</div><p>Other points include Weatherhead point made of Jurassic dolerite - known as the diamond of rocks for its very hard composition. It is home to Australia's smallest lighthouse - the only staff that it could house would be a mouse, so luckily, this is an automatic lighthouse not requiring manning or re-fuelling.</p><p>Lots of Cray pots in the water as we pass by Schouten island and Maria Island and pull up alongside Brian Island - an Aboriginal learning place where we could easily see shells caught in roots of fallen she-oaks. Skipper Robert asked everyone for 30 seconds silence to pay respect to the Aboriginal peoples of Tasmania and reflect on the significance of their custodianship of these lands. Here on Brian Island there was a very steep gradient on literal dune.</p><p>We are shown a WBSEN (White Bellied Sea Eagle Nest) 4.5m deep 3.5m wide. These nests are used for up to 30 years and today, we are lucky to see a female eagle nearby the nest. They are Australia's second largest bird, and one of the world's best visioned birds.</p><p>We motor out the Shouten Passage and into the Tasman Sea where the previously very calm waters started to rock and roll in the increased swell. The tide was coming in, but it really isn't bad.</p><p>We see plenty 'Shags on a Rock' - the ever-present Black chested cormorant whose guanno (bird poop) stains the rocks white so they gleam in the sun like a beacon. And just like in the Bay of Fires, the red lichen can be see along the length of coastline we re traversing. From here, you look eastward to see nothing but the horizon. From here it is 1,500 km to NZ and 2,500 km to Antarctica </p><p>We pull in close to Twin Caves and I kid you not, we were no more than 3 m from the rock. The water depth here must be amazing - I guess the cliffs continue under the water. Then we pull into Waterfall Bay where, after rain, up to 30 falls can be seen.</p><p>Gen had front bow position for much of this part of the cruise - best place in the house to view Half Lemon Rock then Lemon Rock that once housed a gaslit lighthouse.<br />We see the remains of a Rockslide that occurred in 1983 and according to Robert provides some of the areas best crayfishing.</p><p>We first see Wineglass Bay from a distance as we pull into The Nuggets (rocks) to visit another Australian Fur Seal colony. Most are on the rocks and one is obviously injured - Robert thinks probably from a Great White encounter. As we move up and down beside them, they become more comfortable and a number jump, roll or fall into the sea playing around for us.</p><p>We are now well off shore and have perfect phone reception! Go figure! We get patchy coverage on land!!</p><p>We pass back through The Hazards into Wineglass Bay for lunch. Perfect white sand. Clear stunning aqua water two people on the beach would have had to have hiked in. This is an old whaling station. Occasionally old rib bones are washed up. Great calamari fishing spot. There were no oo other boats in the Bay when we arrived (this is unusual) but a yatch sails in not long after er arrived.<br />Wineglass Bay named because after a successfu whale kill the water would look like claret wine, in a glass that the bay resembles.</p><p>Lunch done, we power the motors up and head back for Coles Bay. I swear that the rocks and cliffs look like someone took the orange paintbrush and daubed random spots right across the coastline. As wwe turn from the Tasman back into the calm waters of Coles Bay, the sunlight is dancing on the tiny waves looking like flashlights or twinkling diamonds.</p><p>Back on land we head south for Hobart, passing wineries that we visited yesterday. Just passed Devil's Corner we see a house built high on Cherry tree Hill with amazing views billabong vineyards mountains bays. I would very happily live here.</p><p>We come across some very amusing signs, place names etc on the trip towards Hobart - there was the Wye River, to which someone had added 'Cos it's larger than a stream' on a very official looking sign below! Then there was Break-Me-Neck Hill followed immediately on the next rise by Bust-Me-Gall Hill! Add to these, the various names reminiscent of The Goons around the Bruny area, the links with all things English (humour) is very obvious. And today, just for Mick and Anne, we managed a photo of the road to the 'town' of Nugent - no doubt named for him (in HIS mind!!!) 😂 😂</p><p>We had made a dinner booking at the Drunken Admiral. which we had not been able to get a table at when we arrived for our first few days, but by the time we arrive at the Battery Point Manor, neither of us were very hungry and we just wanted out of the car and the chance not to sit down for a while. In the end we decided to cancel our booking and just finish off the salmon, cheese and crackers of various types that we have been carrying for the last couple of days - not problem, they have been on ice for the whole time.</p><p>So our last day of sightseeing is tomorrow. Heading home is bittersweet, but definitely does have good points! </p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-83442491034766525212022-04-13T14:56:00.000+02:002022-04-13T14:56:08.019+02:00What do travellers on Tasmania's East Coast eat? Oysters? Nope, for me its Lobster all the way!!<p>Last night was very cool. And tonight parts of Tasmania are meant to get to -3 degrees. Yes, -3! Still, the days are lovely and those cold nights mean that the days are crisp and clear. We are finishing eating the last of the bits and pieces of food that we have collected over the last week or two. There was a Cheese and Chives Scone from the Pyengana dairy yesterday with some of their stunning garlic butter, pieces of raisin toast from the Rosevears Bakery again with garlic butter - don't knock it if you haven't tried it (we have finished our tub of regular butter and its not worth buying another for a couple of days). Add to that latte sachets and an apple and we are ready to hit the day.</p><p>Today we are headed to the East Coast wineries and the Bicheno area. We begin with the Devil's Corner Winery, arriving about 10:50 am. We had tried unsuccessfully to book online for a premium wine tasting experience (we reported that to them today) but once we got there, realised that the self guided tasting at only $15 was a much better deal. I suppose you might miss the banter with one of their employees, but the tasting notes that are accessed by scanning the QR Code on the tasting paddle provides plenty of information. </p><p>You know that you are in for nice wines when you instantly recognise the winery logo from major marketing campaigns. <a href="https://www.devilscorner.com.au/" target="_blank">Devil's Corner</a> is one such winery. That and the fact that a number of people that I know have personally recommended them also.</p><p>Never one to drink on an 'empty' stomach we shared a cheese and charcuterie board. In order, we tried premium sparkling cuvee, two cool climate whites, a savingnon blanc and a pinot grigio, a pinot noir rose and their leading pinot noir. They were nice so to added a class of riesling and a syrah to round out our experience. Their Sav Blanc rivals anything coming our of Marlborough, NZ. Might have shipped a mixed case home - love that, <i>might</i> haha - as Gen answered a Facebook post tonight, she was my evil little devil "<i>Mum, if you like it, buy it</i>" - always did find it hard to not give in to that little devil! 😉 😊</p><p>After a leisurely couple of hours, we headed back toward Bicheno and made a stop at <a href="http://ponderingfrog.com.au/" target="_blank">The Pondering Frog</a> cafe. Our entry is greeted with "<i>Hello ladies, is it lunch or an ice-cream time</i>" by the proprietor. Clever marketing! <b>Very </b>clever! We had stopped because Gen's friend Tracey is made about frogs. Ice creams were the order - home made and well worth stopping for. My passionfruit ice cream was full of flavour - and seeds - while Gen had the Peanut Butter Ice Cream with dark chocolate coating. It was huge, lopsided and the choc coating was very thick. BUT neither the ice cream or the chocolate is overly sweet and she enjoys it to the end.</p><p>The other must-visit that we constantly are told about is <a href="https://thefarmshedtas.com.au/" target="_blank">The Farm Shed</a> in Bicheno. There are 22 wine producers on the Tasmanian East Coast, and only ten of these have cellar doors. The others provide their wines to select outlets - predominantly restaurants in Hobart and/or Launceston. BUT, you don't need to table-hop restaurants, because The Farm Door acts as a cellar door for all 22 vineyards. Now, I can't disappoint anyone, so we settle in! The stock Wines, Whiskies, Gins and a whole range of food providores and gift lines. We booked for 1 wine tasting and 1 whisky tasting - as Gen is driving, she will have a tiny sip only. Normally there are five wines and five whiskies. After much chatter with the ladies who operate this gem, I <i>THINK</i> we topped out at 7 wines and 6 whiskies plus a tasting of Australia's only Peated Rye. Not my cup of tea, but plenty of the others were.<br />Again, I may - bugger let's forget the jokes, I DID buy a half-dozen wines, and I signed up to their wine club. Looks like there will be plenty of time to taste Tasmanian wines over the next year or so. So, who wants to be my friend??? Hmm? You?</p><p>The area between the Bay of Fires and Freycinet is well known for its seafood. In particular the freshest oysters you could want - for as little as $14 per dozen. Makes you wonder how some restaurants can get away with charging up to $8 each. But for me, it is the other delicacy that we are interested in - LOBSTER - locally known as Crayfish. </p><p>The <a href="https://www.lobstershacktasmania.com.au/" target="_blank">Lobster Shack</a> is a well-known local identity. We paid $60 for half a plain medium <strike>lobster</strike> Crayfish in Stanley about 10 days ago.<br />Today, we pay $55 for a half<b> medium lobster thermidor </b>with Pyengana Cheese being used in the mornay sauce!! Winner winner! With all the troubles in the world at the moment, I do feel a little guilty. But not for long! </p><p>Fully 'stuffed', 'glutted', 'filled' and 'bursting' we waddle back to our car - with more swagger than the seagulls that jump out of our way. we head the car for scamander and our accommodation in the gentle late afternoon light. BUT this was not to be an easy trip back. It is 58 kms from Bicheno to Scamander and we are travelling in light traffic - each lost in our own thoughts. We round a bend and start up a rise to come to a stopped line of traffic with hazard light on. This doesn't look good, we have already passed through the roadworks just to the north of Bicheno. Before long, we learn that there is a crash up ahead. Gen turns off the car and heads up to see whether it will be worth us witing, or turning atound. She reports it happened about 40 minutes earlier, the police were on site, turning back traffic, saying the road would be closed for many hours yet.</p><p>So, along with the rest of the waiting cars, we turn. We ask someone who appears to be a local what the alternate routes are. He advises that there is only one - Up over St Mary's Pass through St Marys and down <a href="https://www.ourtasmania.com.au/launceston/st-marys.html" target="_blank">Elephant Pass</a>. He warns that there are tight bends and to just take it slowly. And that it was. I didn't envy Gen this drive with the late afternoon sun in her eyes for most of the trip up the mountain to St Marys. Normally we would have made a stop to have a look around, but the light is fading and we had made a pact that we would not drive at dusk or dawn because of the amount of wildlife that appears. We don't want to add to the road-kill. We finally reach the base, pass the junction with the coastal road that is now blocked and manned by police and in another 15 minutes find ourselves back in Scamander. </p><p>We pass the motel and head to the service station. Although closed, they have a 24 hour card facility to purchase fuel. Thanks to good ol Costco, we know how to operate these. Gen fills up and there is another hire car, a Merc whose asian driver obviously needs help. Gen does another good deed for the day and explains how to get access to the fuel - a very relieved driver - it looked like he was settling in to wait in the car until morning! </p><p>We have an early start, setting out for Coles Bay to join another <a href="https://www.wineglassbaycruises.com.au/" target="_blank">Pennicott Cruise</a> - this one to the Freycinet National Park and the iconic Wineglass Bay. Its another bucket list item for me, and I am no longer up to the hike in by foot!</p><p><br /></p><p><i>Footnote: My sister, Donna, told us she had tested positive for Covid-19 last week and today Antony phones us to tell us that Amanda has tested positive today and feel like a truck has hit her. so the household is in quarantine for at least a week. So after some discussion, we have decided that we will head home once we land in brisbane rather than staying a few days. Can't say that either of us is too disappointed. Its been a holiday to make memories, but we will both be glad to stay put in one place! </i></p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-21714218211588128862022-04-12T14:57:00.003+02:002022-04-12T14:57:34.257+02:00A move towards the north - for more cheese (hic)<p>It was significantly colder last night and as we watch the news tonight, find out that it got down to 2 degrees. Yep, a <i>lot</i> colder! Even Gen felt the need for the aircon to be turned to heat this morning. Before we went to bed last night we sorted out the remaining 'stuff' we are carrying. I filled on postbag with some clothes that I won't be needing for the last week, nor immediately when we arrive back in much (much) warmer Queensland! We moved clothes for the next week, souvenirs that we will want as soon as we touchdown at Upper Kedron 😉) and some breakable (liquid) items to the large suitcase. We put all the laundry needing doing in a bag for laundry on Wednesday before we head back to Hobart, and started to put aside food etc that we will leave with Nick when we go - I men, there is no point in wasting it. Meredith and Andrew have good luggage allowances and have offered to carry some things home for us (they arrive home on Monday just before we leave for home). I'm really grateful for this as it will minimise the luggage Gen needs to carry between Hobart and Brisbane.</p><p>Because we had sorted our sh*t last night, we were able to get away in good time and drove away from the Rosevears Hotel right on 8:30 am. There are three routes that we could take to reach Scamander. Gen had thought that the most northern route would allow us to have a look at the coast, but we (lol we, read <b><i>me</i></b>!) really want to visit the Pyengana Dairy cheese factory. And as luck would have it, it is located closest to the most southern route we could choose! Turns out the choice was made for us. Our hire car has a 'no gravel roads' clause in the rental agreement and the centre route that would have been the most appropriate is unsealed. But we don't really want to stick to the highway as it goes through the southern part of our route, and nowhere near the coast. So our second choice becomes our first!</p><p>Our route north from Exeter (near Rosevears) took us almost directly north to Pipers River and then to Bridport on the coast. We began in lush pastoral country filled with a multitude of wineries and then surprisingly encounter 'big timber' forests again as we hit a mountain range. We had not expected to find mountains this close to the coast. </p><p>It was interesting to see the change in landscapes so abruptly. One minute Gen is traversing the dreaded hairpin bends up and down slopes at an average of less than 40 km. The next corner puts us back on the coast with the sleepy seaside town of Bridport coming in to view. Well, it looks sleepy on its outskirts, but is much larger than it first appears. Gen was happy to find a petrol station there!! From here, the soil is again sand, the dunes are not only seen, but crossed as are numerous small streams and rivulets. The birdlife is abundant and in the earlier (lol) light of the day, we startle a number of flocks of black birds, just waiting for the roadkill to commence. There are lots of sheep in the paddocks and the cattle are now more diary cows than beef cattle. Traffic is light and the travelling easy, although the road is somewhat undulating, as though the sands are shifting beneath us. </p><p>By now, neither of us has mobile coverage so we are relying on road signs. We have abandoned trying to get to the Pynegana Dairy as it looks like it will need significant back-tracking. With glimpses of the clear aqua water of the Bass Strait teasing us through dunes and low-lying wind-sculpted coastal trees and shrubs, we turn toward the south after travelling as far as we can along the northern roads. <br />We reach Gladstone (the other one!). If wanted to continue to the northeast most point, Cape Portland, then we needed to do it another way as from here, the road is unsealed. Between the towns of Derby and Gladstone (there are lots of references to English places, reflecting the pioneers) we see a tourist sign to the <a href="https://www.discovertasmania.com.au/attraction/littlebluelake" target="_blank">Little Blue Lake</a>. </p><p>Now, I have seen plenty of blue lakes in my travels, but this was something altogether different. There is a viewing platform just off the road, with a solid chainlink fence keeping you back from the edge. And while most of the blue lakes I have seen attribute their amazing colour to glacial or summer snow melts, this one was very different. It is the result of about 100 years of mineral mining - mainly tin, and at this spot, that tin was intersperced with kaolin, that amazing white clay that is so prized by Chinese pottery makers. The colour is truly amazing, but what is also amazing is that there is no signs of life anywhere near it - the vegetation stops about 3 metres from the water's edge and there is no sign of wildlife - not even a bird. This site is part of the mine rehabilitation area of the former South Mount Cameron mine.</p><p>A little further south, we pass through the hamlet of Moorina (there are numerous much smaller settlements - but what do you call a collection of less than ten houses?) At Moorina there is an intriguing sign pointing to the Moorina cemetery and the Chinese Monument - the <a href="https://www.northeasttasmania.com.au/trail-of-tin-dragon-heritage/" target="_blank">Tin Dragon</a>. Now, <i>that</i> sounds interesting! Turns out that this area has quite a history of mining, opportunities sought, fortunes won and lost, of Chinese immigrants and their legacy locally. The monument is more of a memorial because although it is located adjacent to the local cemetery, there are very few Chinese graves because if they perished, as many did, the bodies were returned home - predominantly to the Guandong region from where most of them came. An unexpected and interesting stop on the route. </p><p>Gen asks me "<i>What will we be eating in half an hour or so</i>?"<br />"<i>I don't know. Lobster</i>?", I ask. <br />"<i>Nope</i>", she says with a grin, "<i>Cheese</i>!"<br />On this memorial there was a great regional map and despite the convoluted route we have taken, we are now a mere 29 kms from the <a href="https://pyenganadairy.com.au/" target="_blank">Pyengana Dairy Factory</a>! Yay!! <br />We are skirting around the edge of the other side of the Blue Tier Forest and back into winding roads. And the dairy cattle are now everywhere. Its not long before we see the signs and take the road towards the dairy and St Columba Falls. This award-winning dairy is literally in the middle of nowhere (and still with no mobile coverage), so we are quite surprised when we get to the farm gate to see that their car-park is full, with more vehicles parked on the side of the 'highway'. </p><p>The dairy visitor centre is housed in a former milking shed. There are lots of story-boards, under cover, along the long side of the building that leads you to a viewing platform where you can watch the cheese being made. That is what you would normally see, but today one of the farmers is there explaining that they are not making cheese this week as the milk is all needed for the Easter demand! It is just after midday and lunch is certainly on the cards. I had read in the Travelling Tasmania Facebook page that the Cheese and Chive scones were excellent. They offer a small but sufficient selection for lunch. I have already decided that I am going to have those scones which are served with their dairy butter and a smoky tomato relish (that has a bit of a kick) and Gen decides on the Tasmanian Gourmet Platter that includes homemade pumpkin sourdough, crackers, a range of their cheeses and local meats and fruits. Both were delectable and as usual we shared. Gen had asked if I wanted a glass of wine with lunch - they do offer that lovely Josef Chromy Pinot Gris, but I said that while in Rome . . . so we had milkshakes! While Gen ordered our food, I found a table right next to the gentle warmth of the open fire. Man, this is living. AND they offer Valhalla icream that we both love. Jersey Caramel and Strawberry Choc Chip were today's choices.<br />The have a great selection of cheeses and other souvenirs and again, I may, (or may not) have sent some cheese home - the free postage if you spend $100 was very easy to reach! Remember - Saturday 23 is tasting day at home - keep it free peeps!! Pyengana is well worth a visit if you are in the north/east of Tasmania - AND they do mail order from their website.</p><p>Now absolutely rolling with all the food we have consumed (well, that is a bit of an exaggeration, we brought some of it with us for tonight!) we left and turned for the East Coast and St Helens (again, not the local one). St Helens is the gateway to the <a href="https://eastcoasttasmania.com/discover/town/bay-of-fires/" target="_blank">Bay of Fires</a> where those amazing seascapes of lichen and algae covered rocks in crystal clear waters are known world-wide. There are opportunities to see them right along the roadside, with plenty of parking areas for a car or two, but the formal viewing area is at the very end of the road. We arrive about 3 pm and spend about an hour with me taking telephoto shots and Gen walking down slippery ramps and across very soft sand to clambour over the rocks. </p><p>This is truly a beautiful landscape and it is easy to see the inspiration for many professional photographers and artists whose works grace glossy books and galleries right across the state! As we leave there is a steady stream of traffic coming out - heavens knows where they will park, as the carpark is already full. The rocks are best seen as the sun is setting, but it has been close enough for us! There is an on-shore wind and our views are softened by a fine powder of both sea-mist and that fine sand as it is blown across the roadway. The whitecaps dance along the crystal clear water in lines as they meet with rock obstacles. From time to time, there is a whoosh as water encounters a rocky outcrop and I am rewarded with some lovely photographs of shooting waters. </p><p>In total, driving directly it should have been 4.5 hours travelling to cover the 304 kms trip - seems like a cinch, but in reality it took us all day - with us arriving at Pelican Sands at Scamander right on 4:30 this afternoon. Turns out that Terese and Tony from home are here in town tonight also. They have been here for a short trip of about 9 days - and depart on the Spirit of Tasmania on Saturday. They have travelled the opposite direction to us. We will need to catch up when we get home and trade stories! We have some of the cheese we left at lunch for a light dinner, with one of our last apples (purchased at Willy smiths in Huonville what feels like weeks ago). along with the cheese, I am enjoying a can of Crafty Cuts Lemon+Lime Gin Cucumber Cooler - <i>very </i>quaffable! Will have to see if we can get it at home/online!</p><p>We are here for two nights (accommodation is very hard to find, with the local news tonight reporting that there is NO accommodation left for the Easter break in either Hobart or Launceston!). Tomorrow we are headed to Bicheno, 45 minutes away for lobster rolls and a visit to the Devil's Corner winery (as the Farmshed East Coast wineries that stock wines from <b>all</b> the east coast wineries).</p><p>Off for an earlier night - biggie coming tomorrow. Later . . .</p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-89094126497653017252022-04-11T13:46:00.000+02:002022-04-11T13:46:06.146+02:00The Tamar River and Cataract Gorge - two of Tasmania's natural beauties<p>True to form, after an overcast weekend, the Monday start to the working week has dawned bright and clear. This bides well for our Tamar River Cruise this morning! Think though that I need to pace myself a bit better - following the wine tasitng yesterday and a glass of wine with dinner, I need an extra Ondansetron this morning.</p><p>Now that we are getting close to the end of this adventure, we are planning a little strategically just what we are posting home versus what we are carrying, knowing that we have a few days in Brisbane before actually heading home. Gen has begun looking at the weather at home, as well as the daily weather here. She's not liking what she is seeing! The first couple of days when we get back are hot, humid and even raining. Won't worry me, I plan on catching up on some sleep for the first day or two!!</p><p>You have to love the new technologies that we have at our fingertips these days. We plug into Google Maps the departure address for our cruise this morning to be informed that at this time of the day, on a weekday, our trip should take us 27 minutes - that means we can spend a quarter of an hour or so planning what to send home wit Meredith when we leave Hobart.</p><p>Into the Launceston Sea Port we drive to join our extended tour on the <a href="https://tamarrivercruises.com.au/" target="_blank">Tamar River Cruises</a>. There are quite a number of people milling about - including as the captain later introduces, a couple celebrating their 53rd anniversary. Wow, now <i>that</i> is an achievement! We set off right on the dot of 10, with more people than I thought would be cruising on Monday, but when we consider the number of people who appear to be touring in Tasmania at the moment, I guess it makes sense.</p><p>Anyway, our captain Lynn (a male) is another dry wit, with lots of little quips!<br />The morning cruise that only does the Cataract Gorge left 15 minutes earlier and as we enter under the Kings Bridge, it passes us on its return to the wharf. We continue to where the Gorge is ponded at Basin 1, to provide controlled water flow to the city's first hydro-electric power system.</p><p>The bridge was needed to allow the population easy passage over the Esk River (which flows into the Tamar Basin.) Local manufacturers did not yet have the capability to cast the steel needed for the bridge, so the contract was awarded to a firm in Manchester, England, transported in pieces to Launceston and assembled on a pontoon and <span style="background-color: white; color: #4d5156; font-family: inherit;">floated into position and then lowered on to its abutments on the receding tide. Despite the challenges, it worked perfectly, first time! But in no time, the local uproar about the short-sightedness of building a single lane bridge soon won out and a local firm was contracted to replicate the first span and a second span was installed to make it a two lane bridge. Nowadays, the Kings Bridge shares the traffic load with the newer Paterson Bridge constructed in the early 1970's and opened in 1973. Together they connect Launceston city with the north-west.</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #4d5156; font-family: inherit;">Lynn's commentary was very proud of Launceston's achievements. If ever there was a worthy ambassador for this City, he was leading us on our tour today. He kept apologising for the weather "<i>beautiful one day, better the next!</i>" Think that slogan is already taken Lynn!! But I have to admit, today it suited well to this Tasmanian idyll.<br />The sun is high, without a single cloud. The water, on a waning tide, is as smooth as a piece of glass. Motoring out of the harbour under speed restrictions there was barely enough wash from the boat to raise a ripple. We pass not only suburbs that have examples of every style of architecture from the Victorian and Federation through to the modern day - all in one view; but examples of Launceston's prowess in industry. For example, all the tugboats in Tasmania and many from Victoria and South Australia are serviced here. They can turnaround a full inspection and water worthiness certification in a week.</span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #4d5156; font-family: inherit;">Lynn tells of the founding fathers of the city and this part of Tasmania. It is very like the settlement of our own Maryborough in Queensland. There are rags to riches reports, stories of gentlemen convicts and of enterprising entrepreneurs who right to the modern day have shaped the skyline and successes of the City. The <a href="https://velowines.com.au/" target="_blank">Velo Winery</a> has been established by Michael Wilson as a tribute to his career as a former Olympic cyclist. We pass by the Rosevears area and see the <a href="https://rosevearshotel.com.au/" target="_blank">Rosevears Hotel</a> where we are staying. Turns out the accommodation developed here cost in the order of $5.3M and the developer has approval to develop a $15M marina that is yet to be commenced.</span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">We are now travelling at cruising speed and the wash from the boat creates significant waves that we see slam into the banks that have been planted with a rice-plant in an effort to stabilise the banks and minimise the continual siltation of the river. When boats such as this can create the impact that it does, this is always going to be a lost battle. Yet, despite our speed, we are still travelling slow enough to see a Sea Eagle resting atop one of the channel markers and Gen was in the right place at the right time when he decided to take flight and she manages to photograph him on the wing!</span></span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">And not only do we see the sea eagle, we also see a wedge Tailed Eagle, lots of water fowl, black swans and on the return journey Lynn tells us there is a seal off the aft bow, but we can't see it. The siltation of the river has threatened the commercial port status of the city of Launceston. And despite all efforts, all mitigation efforts have not made an iota of difference to the efforts of mother nature!</span></span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">Turns out, that sitting on a tidal river also makes Launceston vulnerable to 1:100 year floods when the city is in receipt of severe storms! Just like home again!! In the 1990s, the city installed a levee that has very successfully protected the infrastructure in later events and when the next 1:100 year event hit in 2016 the city stood dry thanks to that levee. Now, I wonder how the Tamar River and Basin compare to the Mary River? Actually, I don't (wonder that is). The two river geomorphology of the two systems could not be more different!</span></span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">On board we were served morning tea once we had cleared Kings Bridge - brewed coffee or tea with muffins, biscuits and Lions Club christmas cake ("<i>who doesn't love a good fruit cake</i>," asked Lynn, "<i>and the Lions make the best</i>"). We then travelled toward the mouth to the Batman Bridge - not the nana nana nana nana type, but the cantilevered bridge, and Australia's first cable-stayed bridge, named for the John Batman, a Launceston businessman and the co-founder of Melbourne. We turned around, on the length of the boat! here and were then given a wine and beer tasting - Velo Pinot Grigio, Ninth Island Chardonnay, Velo Pinot Noir plus a Boags beer that neither of us sampled. Lunch was served - a good selection of rolls and focaccia with a variety of filligs, generous slabs of local cheeses and plenty of fruits. Surprisingly the fruit - predominantly tropical was very sweet and refreshing! The trip back to the wharf was quieter with passengers seated and happy to watch the passing birdlife.</span></span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">We are coming in on a dead low tide, and at one point the two staff members alarmingly send worried looks to each other as there is a sickening grinding sound. The boat stops momentarily and then Lynn does a little jig with the boat and we are off again. Gemma tells us that this very boat was 'put on the mud', 'fast' only a few months ago! Not sure if that was meant to reassure us or not?! <br /></span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #4d5156;">Finally we dock at the wharf and the boat disgorges us all, with the next cruise load of passengers waiting on the dock.</span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">After a relatively lazy morning, enjoying the sights from the water, we are now headed to <a href="https://www.launcestoncataractgorge.com.au/" target="_blank">Cataract Gorge</a> to see this wonder from the ground. Gen tells me that she had been here last time she visited Launceston and loved it. she had done the Duck Reach Trail and the Reedy and snake Gully Track which circumnavigated the whole gorge, but said that as there were some very steep sections on this walk, it wouldn't be suitable for me to do. We head off to the entrance and the inclinator so that I didn't need to walk down the very steep slope. Nope, not operational. Bugger. Oh well, I tell Gen, the steps have a railing. Off we set. 99 steps later, I am ready for the jelly-like knees to have a bit of a rest. Ah, the cafe is just here!</span></span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">We start with Scones with Jam and Cream and a coffee to pep ourselves up! We can see the Suspension Bridge and the Chairlift through the picture windows as well as the plentiful children's activity areas - adventure rides, tumble tubes, slides, a small wave pool complete with artificial beach etc. Coffee downed, Gen asked if I was up to walking to the Suspension Bridge. Yep, lets go!</span></span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">Well, that walk was longer (and steeper) than either of us knew. And Gen had to cross that suspension bridge with a number of other people on it at the same time, so it was swaying. If only you could have seen the poor girl's face! Turns out the total trip around the First Basin Loop was 900m. Add that to the walk down to it, and the tortuous climb back to the carpark, and we did about 1.2km in right on an hour. Mightn't seem much to most, but to me it sure was.</span></span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">We had booked dinner for 6pm at Alida at Penny Royal, but now it is only 4:30pm. Me knackered, and with all the other activities at Penny Royal closed at 4, we decide not to stay in town and wait, but rather, to cancel the reservation and head back to Rosevears. We decide to detour and have a look at the local town of Grindlewald, that is modelled on the Swiss Village of the same name. As a condition of building in the tract, there were strict caveats put on land purchasers who had to build in the Swiss Chalet architecture style. The original settlement is now a resort, and the 'village' has grown to quite an up-market suburb.</span></span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">Back at the hotel, we decide to eat in the room tonight (I need an early night). Shared a Chicken Parmi as I'm not too hungry!</span></span></p><p><span style="color: #4d5156;"><span style="background-color: white;">Off to take a look at the Pyengana Cheese factory en-route to the Bay of Fires tomorrow. Our time is closing in on us fast!</span></span></p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-50373319492846483632022-04-10T16:09:00.002+02:002022-04-10T16:09:54.813+02:00What is the saying? Ah yes, bread and WINE!<p>Once we get out of bed and open the very efficient blockout blinds we are greeted with an overcast morning, but with spots of clear skies. It is meant to get to 22 degrees with the chance of showers, but given we are going to winery-hop in the Tamar Valley today, we are not at all concerned. </p><p>We are still preparing our own breakfasts - me for one will never tire of these amazing raspberries (almost finished 😭) to add to our fruit toast. Not only does it save money, it also saves time - which is our main priority. There are a number of people in the carpark below us eating delicacies from the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RosevearsBakery/" target="_blank">Rosevears bakery</a>. We can vouch for the freshness and tastiness!</p><p>The days left are gallopping by. There is still so much to see and do, and so little time to do it in. Breakfast underway, I grab the Wine Trail booklet to decide on 2 - 4 wineries to visit. Now, Gen is no a big win drinker and to date has restricted her choices to very sweet varieties such as Moscato. So today might be a bit testing for her. For the last few years, my driving restrictions have meant that I have been able to continue to imbibe as now, there is always someone else doing the driving! But on this trip, I am feeling a little sorry for Gen as she is doing all the driving. On previous holidays, I have always enjoyed being the one behind the wheel as I am sure some of my past travelling compatriots can attest! <i>Not mentioning anyone Helen and Donna!!</i></p><p>Anyway, this morning we leave Rosevears and are heading towards the south. As we join the highway a few kilometres from the hotel, the first thing that we see on the road is the signage advising that there are cyclists in the area. We know first hand, having followed a number of cyclists for <i>kilometres</i> in areas where passing visibiity is poor. The yellow road sign shows two cyclists riding abreast. And that is exactly how they ride. Too bad the powers that be did not think to depict those same two cyclists RIDING IN SINGLE FILE! But for every storm there is a silver lining and the silver lining to being trapped behind cyclists driving at about 20 kph, is that you have more time to be observant of the little things that you pass. Like the tired agapanthus, drooping along the borders of garden beds, bereft of their colour and vim , tired and spent. Or the way that the clouds part momentarily to allow the sunlight to dance across the waters of the body of water that is the Tamar River, and not some bay. Like the extra detail that the man cleaning the exterior of his truck is doing. Instead of just using his gerni to water blast the behemoth that no doubt provides his living, he is up on a step ladder, hose in one hand, rag in the other, polishing the chrome around the edge of the windscreen - <i>that'</i>s dedication. Like the passion and power of the footy players on the field that we hurry past (once we're passed the cyclist!)</p><p>This morning I took the last of my Panadol Osteo. This is probably the gentlest of the drugs I take daily and is useful as it allows me to limit the stronger pain-killers to an as-need basis. Now, given the problems that we had trying to fill my Qld written prescriptions, we are not sure whether we will be able to buy them over the counter, or whether we will need to get another script written here in Tasmania. Turns out, this is an easy one. You can buy them over the counter, with no record taken, AND for about 2/3 the cost of supply in Queensland where a record is kept of supply and questions asked if you need them more frequently than what a pharmacist might think you should. Go figure, there is no rhyme or reason to the lack of consistency. We decide that before we leave Launceston that we will buy a couple of extra boxes as spares.</p><p>So we are now through the City Centre. We are heading south on the <a href="https://www.tamarvalleywine.com.au/" target="_blank">Tamar Valley Wine Trail</a>. Last night I had a quick look through the Wine Trails Tasmania 2022 booklet that we picked up a few days ago. The booklet divides the state into four major wine regions. For each region, it explores the region geographically, climatically and soil typing and the impact these have on the fruit and resultant wines, as well as supporting producers and non-wine things to see and do. The Tamar Valley includes the Tamar Valley, Pipers River and Launceston. There are 17 wineries listed in the Tamar Valley region, and we do not have enough time to do them all, so I have selected:<br />1. Josef Chromy Wines in Relbia (most southerly and because I really enjoyed the glass I had at Stillwater Restaurant last night; <br />2. Clover Hill Wines in Lebrina in the north east of the region as they specialise in sparkling wines;<br />3. Pipers Brook Vineyard north of Clover Hill and the one i had heard of before visiting the region; and finally<br />4. Jansz Tasmania which is adjacent to Pipers Brook.<br />A number of the unvisited wineries are open by appointment only and we do not have the time to commit. I am just glad to get to these ones!</p><p>At <a href="https://josefchromy.com.au/" target="_blank">Josef Chromy</a>, you must book a tasting, which we have not. The only vacancy they have is for 2:15pm today, and so a little dejectedly, I turn to leave. But once a salesman, always a salesman and the lady who we had been speaking with had another alternative (of course!). While a tasting was not possible, we could sit on the terrace and have a glass of wine with a cheese plate. I am so glad we did. I convinced Gen to swap out her Moscato for a Reisling and I had a Chardonnay. The cheese plate was amazing - a Brie, a blue and a cheddar from the region along with some of the amazing leatherwood honey (we are on the hunt for some to bring home) fruits fresh and dried, candied nuts, home-made crispbread and dried fruit-bread. The wine was truly delicious and Gen conceded that perhaps with a bit of training, her palate might be able to be trained to enjoy other wines! Watching the tastings underway, I can understand the need for bookings. They are held for no more than 4 people per wine advisor who sits with them in conversation rather than just presenting wines by a glass. They walk the grounds, explaining the varietals and the outcomes. As well as wine and cheeses, Tasmania also grows a wide variety of nuts and just beside us, beyond the path is a beautiful hazelnut tree. Like many quality producers, the grounds are just beautiful. Manicured lawns are dotted with flower beds and named mature trees. The aerator pond is home to a black swan pair and any number of ducks. There is a clutch of native hens (Turbo chooks as Gen calls them) scratching away around the base of the vines for any wriggly tasty morsels.</p><p>On to <a href="https://cloverhillwines.com.au/" target="_blank">Clover Hill</a>, a 45 minute drive away. We skirt the forests on the drive and can smell the leatherwood on the air. It is such a dominating scent and explains the abundance of bees that we see everywhere we stop the car. The Cellar Door for Clover Hill comes in to view after you turn a corner and pass a huge tree. Architecturally speaking, it is stunning! I would not be surprise to find the architect was the same as the one used at MONA. Stark and striking, it is still sympathetic to its environment. The hard materials - sandstone, weathered steel and timber are softened by crushed sandstone paths, lawns filled (I assume deliberately) with clover, and trees and shrubs in the grey tones of sage and olive groves. We walk through HUGE automatic glass doors to find a tasting room cum lunch room - they do a shared cheese plate or a six course degustation menu only - that looks out over the vines down into the valley beyond. The autumn afternoon light glows gold over the changing colours of the trees and vines - Gen comments often how she loves the changing colours of nature here in autumn, as do I. There are also a number of beautiful bronze statues - a farmer and his dog just inside the front gate and next to the cellar door is a stunning large wedge-tail eagle landing, talons extended as she reaches her perch.<br />Tastings here do not require a booking, and are presented as a more 'traditionl' tasting. As Gen is driving we decide that we will share a tasting as the full six-sample tasting is equivalent to 1.6 standard drinks (and she has already had one glass). To compensate, she also orders a pot of French Earl Grey Tea - her favourite that she has not had since we left home. The shared cheese plate is very different to the one we finished only a little while ago. There is a french baked brie with shaved pumpkin curls, a creamy blue and an aged Bay of Fires cheddar.<br />Clover Hills specialise in sparkling wines and the standard tasting is 6 wines. We begin with a non-vintage Rose and finished with a Cuvee Exceptionnelle that was splendid. There were two other wines not included in the tasting in the sparkling range plus a rage of still wines. But it is sparkling wines that are their speciality. I just can't pass up the chance to taste their not-included Exceptionnelle Blanc de Blancs so purchase a glass. Great move! Now I may have (or may not have, asif!!) joined their Cellar Door Club for a minimum of two deliveries per annum. The first delivery is timed to reach home about the same time we will, so remember, keep Saturday 23 April free!!!! I'm having a celebration of all things Tasmanian. </p><p>Our next stop was at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/PipersBrookVineyard/" target="_blank">Pipers Brook Vineyard</a> - the only Tamar Valley winery that I had heard about before arriving in the region. Their cellar door sits dead in the centre of the vineyard. You weave in and out of the rows of un-named vines following small timber signage. As we pull in to the carpark, there are a couple of families. Gen comments that she can't understand why people would bring children to such a venue - and really, I have to agree with her. There is little to keep a child interested and occupied, and we all know what bored kids are like!<br />By now we have had our fill of cheeses for the day and are actually craving something sweet. The kitchen at Nadines at Pipers Restaurant is closing, but they do offer a Brownie with berries, cream and ice-cream. It was just what we were looking for! This cellar door is much more casual and they offer a bit of everything. You self select the wines you wish to try which are listed under red, white and then sparkling, which to me seems back to front! Again, given that Gen is driving, we opt to share one wine-tasting. I select the Ninth Island Rose sparkling, then the Ninth Island Reisling and Pipers Tasmania Pinot Grigio to be followed by the New Certan Pinot Noir. That in particular was a very nice drop. I bought a bottle to share with Andrew and Meredith when they arrive at the end of next week, and a bottle of the Pinot Grigio. Hope that they are in a tasting mood - lol!</p><p>We could have also visited Jansz Tasmania as they share the land with Pipers Brook, but the cellar doors are closing, so we miss out.</p><p>Still, I am comfortably mellowed and am happy to head back into Launceston and Rosevears. We have not yet eaten at the restaurant here and have decided that we will do so tonight. The trip back seems longer than the same one out, and Gen is tiring of the driving (and being in and out of the car repetedly). While we were at Pipers Brook, we phoned and booked dinner for tomorrow night at Alina at Penny Royal. We are doing a Tamar River Cruise and will explore a little of the Cataract Gorge site after the cruise. Our time here is fast coming to an end. Off to the Bay of Fires on Tuesday before Freycinet on Wednesday and then back to Hobart.</p><p>Just after 6pm we head down to the <a href="https://rosevearshotel.com.au/restaurant" target="_blank">Rosevears Hotel</a>, below the units, and walk through to the restaurant. We did not book, as we didn't want to have to cancel a booking a second time if we couldn't fit dinner in! There are a few cars in the car-park, but nothing like that of Friday or last night. Still, the waiter explains that they are almost fully booked and that he can only offer us a table in the rear and up a couple of steps. No problem - we can make that work. The menu is a mix of restaurant and pub food. I choose to have a steak, my first since I have arrived in tasmania. Knowing that I won't be able to finish it, Gen chooses a Marguerite Pizza. Just as well she did, because I could not finish all my meal. The steak, pan-fried field mushrooms with mash and wilted spinach was delicious. Gen enjoyed what was left of the steak. Desserts looked too good to pass up and I had a Turkish Delight Pavlova with cream and persian fairy floss (a tiny amount) and Gen chose the Salted Caramel Popcorn Sundae. Both were deliciously sickly.</p><p>Its off to bed now, we have an earlier start tomorrow!</p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-44380663108912398712022-04-09T17:40:00.000+02:002022-04-09T17:40:45.012+02:00And we thought the food was good over the last couple of days . . .Well and truly in a food coma last night, I slept like a log. When I finally awake it has gone 9:30 am. I'm not sure how long Gen has been up. "<i>Why didn't you wake me earlier</i>" "Well you must need it" - if only it was that easy.. This is the one drawback of a medicated sleep - it becomes just too easy to sleep the morning away..<div><br /></div><div>Launceston is expecting up to 24 degrees today so we can dispense with some of the layers. Gen is excited to show me some of the Launceston that she visited five years ago. After an in-room breakfast of fruit toast (baked yesterday at the Rosevears Bakery) and some of our fast dwindling supply of Christmas Hill Road raspberries, we leave the hotel, turning to the south rather than the north today. Property down this end of Rosevears is more developed. There is evidence of older homes - some pre-dating 1900 by the look of them look serenely over the Tamar River - although at this point, it looks more like a lake, it is so wide.</div><div><br /></div><div>As Rosevears is only 20 minutes north of Launceston, I would find this a beautiful part of the state, and country, in which to live. Along with regal, sleepy older homes stand newer constructs and as we drive around, we see newer homes yet to be finished. They overlook the glistening river, rippling in the sunshine across to a mountain backdrop that on a clear day includes the Cradle Mountain outline! Pretty, pretty special. Also along this winding 'lane' along the water we see two plots of grapes creeping their way gently up the slope, planted to maximise the amount of light that each any every branch can receive. There is not a winery name of either of these so I do not know if there is a small boutique winery here - I'll have a look into it tomorrow.</div><div><br /></div><div>Before long we are on the Bass Highway in to Launceston. The residents are so lucky - so much property has both a mountain view in the backdrop and a water view in the foreground. Homes are predominantly modest, although when we get into the City Centre, away from the riverside, those homes on the upper streets are more substantial and stately.</div><div><br /></div><div>We begin our discovery of the city at <a href="https://www.qvmag.tas.gov.au/Home" target="_blank">Queen Victoria Museum</a> at Inveresk. Obviously a local landmark, this space is filled with people. Young and old wandering through the various displays of Tasmania (and Launceston's) development and past. Moving through the natural history displays, Gen can finally put a name to the bird that she has seen but couldn't identify - it is a Brown Skua - similar to a gull, but brown and on steroids (like much on the island). We have seen examples of most of the marsupials in the wild - just not a wombat - although I still hold hope of seeing one before we leave Tasmania.</div><div><br /></div><div>They have a wonderful Planetarium. Tasmania holds quite a place in the history of astronomy in Australia. It includes examples and the real examples of some of the earlier telescopes, especially radio telescopes that put Tasmania on the astronomical map. We are in time to see the day's first showing of the night sky in the planetarium. Us, and a family of four. Wow. Our astronomer, Rebecca, (with a degree in astrophysics) is very informative. As all of us are seated in one area of the arena, she spins the display so we don't need to dislocate our necks! So, tonight is going to be a great night to see the bands of the Milky Way - too bad it is cloudy in Launceston, just our luck. She points out the latest two exo-planets discovered, including one in the life-sustaining Goldilocks Band - exciting if you are into extra-stellar life, or just a star-junkie like half of the Carkagis clan!</div><div><br /></div><div>The museum is set in the former railyards and quite a bit of space is given over to exhibits of this former use, and the contribution that they made to the local economy and community. They even covered the conversion of operations during the war times - and we see a new parallel with home where a new munitions factory is nearing completion.</div><div><br /></div><div>Being inside a museum, the space is climate controlled and now I am getting cold. Thankfully I am carrying my jacket (and in the wheelchair today). I suppose I look like a dork wearing it back-to-front, but who cares, I'm warmer! Outsider you take a look at some of the art exhibits and insallations, I feel better as we walk in and out of the warmer sunshine. But time is galloping and Gen wants me to see the City Park today.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once the site of Launceston's Government House, the Park was developed by the Launceston Horticultural Society and handed to the Launceston council in 1863. It is teeming with life - young people hanging out, some new residents (from the sub-continent by their appearance) gleefully taking videos of the Macaque monkeys, families with children, local musicians jamming in the Pavilion dedicated to warmer clime plants, young lovers, a family taking an older member on an outing and a number of large gatherings having planned picnics. It appears to be a well-loved space and offers something for almost everyone. The established trees are nothing short of majestic and the rose and dahlia beds are boasting full blooms. Those dahlias were Dad's favourite flowers and when you see the magnificence of this display, I can see why. Additional to the Pavilion and the monkeys are any number of memorials - you should see the Queen Victoria Cupola now housing drinking bubblers, duck ponds populated by at least four different species we see today, oh, and a miniature tractor-pulled train that seems to want to take every path Gen is pushing me on. I start to think that the driver is deliberately following our route so we have to move out of his way. He doesn't seem to follow a pre-determined route! The weather is beginning to close in and the wind is increasing, so we slowly (uphill) make our way back to the car.</div><div><br /></div><div>We have brought our latest washing load with us as there are a couple of laundromats listed in Launnie (am I sounding like a local yet, Robyn??). we find one a couple of klms from the city centre and make a bee-line. Gen has the machine ready to load and discovers that we don't have enough in change left, so she walks a block back to a service station to change money. Just over an hour later, we are ready to set off again. </div><div><br /></div><div>When we arrived at the museum this morning, we had phoned <a href="https://www.stillwater.com.au/" target="_blank">Stillwater</a>, the restaurant where Gen had a very memorable meal last time she was here. The only booking they can give us is a seating at 5:30 pm. So we book this - with a later breakfast, we feel that we can forgo lunch to allow us to make the most of an early dinner. And by the time Gen finished the washing, it was after 5 pm so we drove through the City and back across the bridge to where Stillwater sits, overlooking the still waters of a 'bay' in the Tamar River - yep, very aptly named.</div><div><br /></div><div>Now, the service was impeccable. All staff have obviously had extensive front of house training. Water offere, house-made sourdough (soo delicious) is served as we read through the menu - gosh, it all looks so good. How <i>will</i> we choose what to eat? Mull over it we did and we finally decided on sharing Snacks (starters) of Hot Smoked Salmon Croquettes and Rock Lobster Blinis and then the entree of Beef Tartare with radish.</div><div>Mains - I had the Gnocchi and Gen the Rib Fillet (bleu) with beans and potato sides.</div><div>Gen had a local Rosè and I had the Pinot Gris. Desserts followed with Gen chosing the Yuzu ice cream and I had the meringue. Could not have eaten or drunk another thing! <a href="https://www.stillwater.com.au/" target="_blank">Stillwater Restaurant</a> was outstanding in food and service.</div><div><br /></div><div>We've hobbled back to our current home - had a coffee and are now more than ready for bed. Tamar Valley Wine Trail tomorrow before we cruise the Tamar and do the Cataract Gorge on Monday. Time is fast coming to an end and there is still so much to see and do!</div>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-42227355606693091282022-04-09T13:54:00.000+02:002022-04-09T13:54:07.832+02:00The Providores trip continues<p>The <a href="https://rosevearshotel.com.au/" target="_blank">Rosevears Hotel</a> new units are very comfortable. The first two pods (which we did try to book, unsuccessfully, are two bedroom units. so we have had to make do with a studio unit. By now, we are more than used to sharing a bed. This time, we have really lucked in - we have a King bed! I don't take up much space any more - thanks to my back, I can't roll over, so when I lie in my bed, think Mortitia Addams. I don't cross my hands, they are usually down by my sides to keep warm! But you get the picture. So having a king bed means that Gen gets the same amount of space that she would get in her Queen bed back home.</p><p>A couple of times late last night and early once in the morning Gen went out to the balcony (after downloading an app to point out south) to have a look to dee if we could see the Aurora Australis. But no luck.</p><p>The units are new with modern fixtures and fittings. This room is an all abilities room, so it has a huge bathroom with a shower seat. A little luxury for many, but oh so good when you have no balance to be able to wash your hair without falling, or shave your legs! It also has <i>the</i> warmest heat lamp I have ever felt - I could sit in there for hours!</p><p>The hotel offers breakfast Saturday and Sunday only, but very conveniently also houses the Rosevears Bakery. They not only cater to the hotel guests, but to the local community also, so they have a reasonable range. Our room has a kettle and toaster, so we are able to make a coffee and have a baked goodies for breakfast. Today it is ham and cheese croissants and fruit toast. We are carrying enough cheese and fruit, raspberries and apples, to do us for the next couple of days.</p><p>Last night we went through the clothes to send home and this morning Gen collected the other carry bags from the car and we packed 3 bags of clothing wrapped bottles and tubs, ready to be posted home. We weren't sure of the weights, so didn't seal them till we got to the Post Office in Exeter, the closest town above 7 kms away. Surprisingly all 3 were under the 5 kg limit, even though i was sure that at least one of them would be over.</p><p>From Exeter, we decided to visit the <a href="https://anvers-chocolate.com.au/" target="_blank">House of Anvers</a> Chocolate Factory first as this was the furtherest from where we are. It should have taken just under an hour, but thanks to some roadworks being done on the Bass Highway, it took us 20 minutes longer. First of all, we travel those very English-looking valleys that we travelled through yesterday. As we eventually got close to the Factory, we see a recently ploughed field and standing proud as punch over a felled small wallaby or perhaps a pademelon was a beautiful Wedge Tailed Eagle. She was <b>HUGE</b> and her kill was dwarfed by her. Too bad that we were in traffic and I couoldn't get a photo to share with you all. But both Gen and I both have that photo in our brain-bank!</p><p>Anyway, we finally get to the chocolate factory. We have been pretty lucky with the crowds and here is no different. Yes, there were people here, but the grounds are quite large and so there was plenty of space for everyone. We start in the museum, reading the history of chocolate and how central Europe came to be chocolate processing leaders. There are two major processing areas that are on view to the public through two large viewing windows. Both Gen and I agree that we would hate to have to do our daily work under the constant scrutiny of strangers. Not able to scratch your head (or elsewhere!), or stretch your back. No thanks. Still its very interesting for us to watch, lol! There are literally hundreds of moulds used for chocolate making, some very old with prussian and early chinese patterns; some bakelite similar to the first ones I ever had, through to the recent hard plastic and the newest silicone moulds. </p><p>The cafe is in what must be the original home on the estate - think 1930s with leadlights and lots of rich timber. We sit and order a hot chocolate - Gen a traditional one and me a vanilla white chocolate one. Then we see they have waffles. Oh yes! Gen has chocolate and I have lemon curd. Both served with cream and ice-cream. Should have all been good, but it wasnt, in the best possible way. These waffles were twice the size of those that you get anywhere else, AND THERE WERE TWO OF THEM. EACH. Needless to say. neither of us could finish. I wish they had told us, we would have shared a single serve!</p><p>We are now half an hour from the <a href="https://www.ashgrovecheese.com.au/" target="_blank">Ashgrove Cheese Company</a>. I'm dreading getting there, but only because I am so completely full! But get there we did. A family run enterprise, what the Bennett family has done is a real credit to them. Facing limited opportunities with the introduction of the big multi-nationals, they were at a crossroads. Their business model had to change if they were to continue, but obviously very resilient and willing to 'have-a-go' in the Australian vernacular, they have made their gamble pay off. The enterprise now not only controls their milk production, but have diversified to now provide a complete paddock to plate business, manufacturing milk, cream and a great range of cheeses. </p><p>The visitor experience includes a very efficient and large visitor centre that provides fun and practical information on the various productions involved within their business. I can see how it would be very popular with primary schools as the information is well laid out and logical with enough hands on, media presentations and 'through the window' viewing platforms. My favourite was the window into the Nursery, where you can view the wheels of cheese ageing in a climate controlled room. Of course!</p><p>For the princely sum of $12 you can have a tasting plate of five of their standard cheeses plus a dealers choice, which today is a soft cheese with figs - gee, she must think she knows me!! In order of tasting they were Eaglehawk Neck Heavenly Havarti, Cradle Mountain Double Gloucester, Mt Roland Bush Pepper, Walls of Jerusalem wild Wasabi, Bay of Fires Rubicon Red and the Soft Cheese with Fig. I'm telling you that they are all <i>very very </i> good. The Wasabi-scented cheese was a little too hot for my poor palate, but still tasty (or at least the tiny piece I sampled was). Don't ask me for a favourite - that's like asking a mum to nominate a favoured son or daughter - just ain't goin' to happen! Gen is finding a new liking for a range of cheeses that she probably wouldn't try at home. Gosh, the lengths I have to go to educate her, lol.</p><p>So, photos of eclectic cows taken, and online purchase versus local purchase plus postage considered (on-line won out at the advice of the shop attendant) we leave Ashgrove, very impressed with what we have seen. We have previously purchased <a href="https://www.ashgrovecheese.com.au/pages/our-story" target="_blank">Ashgrove Cheese</a> at our local Coles and Woolworths, it is reassuring to know that the quality control espoused on their packaging is implemented in the processing of that cheese. I will definitely continue to happily buy Ashgrove Cheeses well into the future.</p><p>Back on to the highway (and those roadworks) for our last destination for the day, we head back to Christmas Hills Road. Across the road from the Raspberry Farm is the <a href="https://www.vdlcreamery.com.au/" target="_blank">Van Dieman's Land Ice Creamery</a>. We had been so full yesterday to consider even trying it, and I am not sure why we thought that today might be any different. But try it we will. Its like not wanting to waste the last morsel of food on a plate!</p><p>I'm almost glad that we have left this to the last. What we are presented with is little more than an up-market ice-cream shop. Beautifully presented, but there is no opportunity to see any process of the ice-cream making production other than a snapshot-window behind the ice-cream sellers into the final production room where ice-cream is being pumped into containers. Its a bit of a let-down in a region that goes out of its way to bring in the consumer to the whole process of growth and prouction. Still, the ice-cream <i>is</i> worth writing home about. We both decide that all we can manage is a child's serve in a cup rather than it's grown-up waffle cone counterpart. Gen selects the Pepperberry and Leatherwood Honey Ice-cream and I choose the Salted Lime Gelato. I'm not sure which is better - they are both soooo good! The honey flavour was strong, but not sickly and the Gelato was very palate cleansing. Just what the doctor ordered!</p><p>At this point, we look at each other and I am sure that we are thinking the same thing - there is <i>no</i> way we are going to be able to front up for dinner that Gen booked at the Rosevears Hotel tonight. She makes the call as soon as we arrive back at the hotel and cancels our reservation. It must have been about 9, maybe 9:30 pm that we share some raspberries, I have the remaining fig cheese that we brought home from the Ashgrove Cheese tasting with my raspberries in a croissant bought for breakfast and Gen finishes some dip with crackers that we have been carrying in our cold bag for the last 24 hours.</p><p>Its be a big day and to say I'm shagged is a total understatement. Off to bed with us. I'll sleep the sleep of the sated (<i>more likely stuffed</i>!) tonight. </p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-25263048259057520572022-04-08T14:50:00.000+02:002022-04-08T14:50:29.369+02:00Penguin as only you could imagine it and Red-Beard to rescue memories<p>After arriving at about 8 pm last night at the Penguin Seaside Motel, and soon learning that the train we heard pass by the rear of the motel was a freight train and the only one for the night, we could relax. The room was huge with a large queen bed, a table with 6 chairs, a sitting area and a bedroom with another Queen and two single beds plus an ample kitchenette and roomy wheelchair friendly bathroom. As I still don't have a working keyboard - we guess the batteries are flat, we abandon the blog for tonight and watch a bit of Ambulance!</p><p>This morning we have arranged to meet a friend from my teen years - Bruce Harpley - for breakfast in Ulverstone, about 9 kms away. Driving in to town last night we saw the very Australian BIG PENGUIN. We will come back for a look-see after Ulverstone. But for now, we turn on Maps on my phone and set of to find a cafe called Daltons in Ulverstone. On KI (King Island as it will be abbreviated from here on) we blamed the poor maps for difficulties in finding places. Bruce had given us the address of the <a href="https://dccafe.com.au/" target="_blank">Dalton Cafe</a>, but still we drive down Victoria Street and cannot see it. I turn on Street View and we see that the address displays a physiotherapist business. Am I going bonkers or what? I'm about to contact Bruce again when Gen spies it! Daltons is down the lane, <i style="font-weight: bold;">behind</i> the physiotherapist.</p><p>At least we know how where to go, now to get parking. Yippee - right ouside the door. As we get out of the car, Bruce is walking across the carpark. OMG, apart from the fact that we are both carrying many years, I would recognise him anywhere - well, I must admit I wasn't expecting a <span style="color: red;"><i style="font-weight: bold;">red</i> </span>beard, but otherwise he looks just like I remember him. We are shown to our table and order breakfast, the waiter asks Bruce about colouring his budgies by feeding them cochineal, (which goes right over my head - obviously not the brightest early in the morning). Yes, I get it know that he was having a go at the beard!! </p><p>Our breakfasts - Coffee and poached eggs for Bruce and Coffee and Eggs Benedict for Gen and I - mine with salmon, Gen's with Ham and Avocado - are served with a smile. There are quite a few other diners and heaps of people getting a coffee on their way to work. The food is good and a lovely change from pies and egg and bacon rolls! Time flies when you are reminiscing and catching up with 40 years of life events. We were telling him of our recent trip to KI and he said that the golfing industry on the island is huge. However, most of the players are flown over in chartered planes on a Saturday morning from Melbourne and play 18 holes before returning by charter flight to Melbourne that night and then fly back on Sunday for a second 18 holes before returning home via the charter flight, again. <b><i>You have got to be kidding me?!!</i></b></p><p>Turns out its a 45 - 55 minutes flight from Melbourne, so I guess it's feasible. Sure as sh*t means that the opportunity for re-developing that motel is <b>definitely</b> a goer. Anyone got a spare $2.5M they want to invest with me? Reckon we could double our money in 6-8 years! Think, golf packages, partner spa packages, REAL foodie experiences? Talk with me if you are interested! A conversation we overheard at lunch at the golf club before we left KI now makes perfect sense. The women said that they were going to stay in Melbourne shopping when the men came back the next day! </p><p>But again, I digress (<i>that is unless someone is interested in investing with me!</i>)<br />We finished our breakfast and said our goodbyes for probably the next 40 years, although we did issue an invite should he ever be up to see friends he has in Bargara - yep, its a small world! Bruce has given us a list of a few must-sees before we leave the area and has generously given us bottle of Ryan and Pop's Honey - Bruce's bees output that he filters with the help of one of his grandsons. How lovely.</p><p>Back out in today's warm sun, we head west again, slightly back-tracking to visit <a href="https://parks.tas.gov.au/things-to-do/60-great-short-walks/fern-glade" target="_blank">Fern Glade</a>. Gen visited here when she was in Tasmania 5 years ago and Bruce has suggested a couple of spots in particular to check. We are looking for Platypus! Its still and quiet, with few cars and just as few people. We park at the far car-park and walk along the edge of the Emu River. The path is lined with Tree Ferns that tower over both Gen and I. We walk quietly, very quietly but all we see are birds, a duck nibbling away at the water's edge and then <i>"Mum, mum</i>" Gen urgently whispers "<i>Look</i>" and there it is a platypus swimming just under the surface. A little further on, we get within 2 feet of two pademelons. Right on the edge of a major urban area!! Our morning's walk ended 500m later at the carpark area where Bruce suggested we might see platypus. But despite standing there, noiselessly for about 20 minutes, we are not rewarded with any more platypus sightings.</p><p>Now, we have collected just a few things we need to get home on this trip and have decided that we will post most home. We could just book for and pay for more luggage, but it was enough of a struggle for Gen with the luggage we bought with us without adding to it <i><span style="color: #ff00fe;">lol</span></i> . We have some post bags and went through un-needed clothing and other 'stuff' this morning. So elated that we saw a platypus, we drove back into Penguin with the first three bags plus a few other parcels going direct.</p><p>The town of Penguin is home to the Big? PENGUIN! As we park the car opposite the Post Office, the Big Penguin is behind us, and along the kerbside next to us are penguin bollards - might mention that to some of our local Councillors - I'm sure Mary Poppins bollard could look cutely kitsch! We look at some of the other Penguin themed street infrastructure - bins, sets, signs while we wait our turn for a photo. There is a lady taking of photo of two other ladies and Gen asks if she would like to have a photo with them. Turns out she was a local who had just volunteered to take their photo, and offers to do the same for us. Very friendly she was - a local ambassador who had stepped out from the local VIC to give directions to other tourists. How lovely.</p><p>There are what seems like hundreds of hot-rods in Penguin today. The same volunteer tells us that there a Show and Shine on here this weekend. Would not have thought there could be so many hot rods in Tasmania - but then again, perhaps some of them came over from Melbourne! We had a milkshake, and shared a Penguin biscuit and a currant square at the Penguin Country Bakehouse.</p><p>Leaving Burnie, we headed down the Bass Highway towards the Christmas Hill Raspberry Farm. OMG - hang on - down <i><b>that</b></i> way is the Spreyton Factory! The <a href="https://www.spreytonciderco.com.au/" target="_blank">Spreyton Cider Company</a> makes amazing ciders, ginger beers and non-alcoholic versions. You can do a tasting - 5 ciders and their ginger beer on a paddle, so we share one. I have always liked cider and Gen likes the sweeter ones too. The winner today is the Apple Raspberry Cider - it has depth in apple and the sweet, slight tang of raspberry. You can certainly taste the raspberry - and it is a taste that we have grown very fond of over this last month! Hmm (<i>gently looking skywards</i>) might be another box coming home. <br />Its not sold anywhere outside Tasmania and although Uncle Dans will list the basic Spreyton Cider on their wesite, it is always unavailable as explained by their bartender Markus, who now lives in Australia after leaving Italy - in the north, in the Dolomites (another truly beautiful place on this earth!) Turns out that Spreytons use a courier to deliver their goods, so we add a few jams, brandy, relish etc - there is no limit to the weight, so long as it will fit in the box - and there is a bigger box I can use!!<br />In order to soak up the alcohol - it was only equivalent to one standard drink - we ordered a bowl of hot chips. They were so good! And now, we are soooo full!</p><p>The afternoon is gaining on us now and we want to get to the Raspberry Farm, so we push off again. Finally we arrive. It must be time for afternoon tea and it is certainly time for coffee. We are shown to a sunny table and I select a raspberry crepe and Gen, Waffles with Rasberries. OMG they are so good. I kid you not, the raspberries here as a big as a thimble. Each single globule bursts under the pressure of your tooth, filling your mouth with the most intense flavour. We make yet another few purchases, including 500g of fresh raspberries for the next day or three - IF I can make them last that long.</p><p>As the afternoon shadows lengthen we decide that we need to stop stopping at every food outlet we come across (we'll have to come back to the Anvers Chocolate Factory, the Ashgrove Cheese Factory and Van Dieman's Ice Creamery - probably tomorrow. So we punch in Rosevears and head for the Hotel where we have a room booked for the next 4 nights. We head cross country through picturesque English looking fields, with the every present Cradle Mountain in the background. Arriving in the Tamar Valley, we turn left towards the Tamar River and following the sparkling sun dancing on here waters, passing by marshy patches close to the road until we reach the <a href="https://rosevearshotel.com.au/" target="_blank">Rosevears Hotel</a>. Established in 1831, there are a number of new 'pod' like units built on the hill behind the majestic building standing sentinel over her stretch of the river. The KI folk could certainly learn a lesson here! </p><p>OMG so sick of the UAP (some mongrel named Clive or something) adverts using all the scaremongering - 85% of all mortgages will default and you will lose your home, UAP will make all superinvestments be made in Oz. How I hope that all of us who know any smidgeon of knowledge of the mechanics of government can share that with at least one other - ignorance will be the killer in this election. And mongrels will use any scare tactic to try to get a vote. <b>grrrrr</b> </p><p>Totally knackered now - I'm off to bed. Chat later.</p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-50365010054158013692022-04-08T12:01:00.000+02:002022-04-08T12:01:31.541+02:00And in came the rain and those roaring fortiesSo we wake his morning to a full-on storm. I mean rain, not showers with the wind behind it. In this weather it is easy to imagine how a ship's captain could not hold his vessel against the raging of mother nature. And with the seas whipped up, we have a better view of some of the rock hazards. Bigger waves are breaking off-shore on hidden dangers. Altogether very bleak. We hear the coach arrive to collect the tour group as we live in bed a few minutes longer to ward off the cold. Slowly the other rooms empty and before long, we are the last room to leave.<div><br /></div><div>We have received an email from the airline saying that due to operational requirements our flight is now departing later. We are now leaving King Island at 17:25 with arrival back in Wynyard at 17:55. From there we have a half hour drive to our accommodation in Penguin. I have managed to get in touch with Bruce Harpley who lives a few miles away in Ulverstone and we are catching up for breakfast tomorrow morning en-route to Launceston. </div><div><br /></div><div>Gen again went into the Bakehouse for our breakfast and hooray, has managed to get me a Crayfish Pie (at $15!). It is delicious. In a soft curry sauce, which is what the Taswegians seem to put all their seafood in for pies - think fish, think prawns, think scallops (roe on) and now also think crayfish (lobster)! It had plenty of crayfish - both in big chunks and smaller pieces generously spread amongst the sauce. She bought herself another egg and bacon roll - both had been cooked to order. She enjoys her roll and I made sure I left her some of that scrumptious pie to taste!</div><div>Given the unpleasant weather today we decided to drive along the other fully sealed road on the Island. We had wanted to visit the Cultural Centre but as the main 'tourist season' (March) is done, it is now only open by appointment. </div><div><br /></div><div>You know, there is a huge opportunity going begging here. The motel, which is for sale, is very tired and the restaurant is under different management. Yet the coastal location is supberb overlooking the rolling sea with private access to a small rock sheltered beach. I have no idea what the sale value is, but even if it were $1M, another investment of $500K+ to revamp the rooms, restaurant and the grounds (including the access road) and you could have a great return with groups - and especially golf groups. But I digress (again) </div><div><br /></div><div>Naracoopa is sited on the east coast about halfway up the coast and the mid-point between Grassy and Cape Wickham where we went on our first day. </div><div>Naracoopa reminded us of many of the sleepy coastal townships that can be found right along the East Coast of Australia. In fact, it reminds me very much of Woodgate of a few years ago. There is one street fronting the beach with most of the homes being holidays homes that are deserted at present. There is evidence of some newer building works happening - you know the time - those slip, sultry buildings in the colour of their surroundings so as not to compete with the landscape - filled with timber and glass. Personally, I can't imagine that in a few years they will remain as schmick. The timber will cop a lot of weather, as will the tin rooves like we have seen elsewhere on the island, and although I would love to be sitting in a warm house looking out through large picture windows - but honestly, keeping them clean against all that salty water would be a *itch to clean! (Gotta love our textured <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=kosciusko+glass&oq=kosciousko+glass&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i13l2j0i22i30l3j0i8i13i30j0i390l2.6956j0j7&client=tablet-android-samsung-nf-rev1&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8" target="_blank">Kosciusko</a> glassed windows back home - they require little cleaning! 😉)</div><div><br /></div><div>Just "a few kilometres north", remembering the mud map as opposed to anything accurate, near Sea Elephant Bay, is supposed to be Blowhole Beach. So off we set. The road is on the map, so we are safe, albeit somewhat sandy. Gen does a great job navigating the potholes (and then we come on some Council workers doing some grading!) and when we get out to Blowhole Beach there is already one car there. Given the soft sand and the rain, it is decided that Gen will go have a look and see whether the walk is Maria-doable. She comes back in less than 10 minutes to say that if there is a blowhole, she can't find it, nor can she find any landform that would even remotely look like it could produce a spout of water of any form. By now, there are another two cars parked here - and we cross paths with another couple of people that we've seen a few times over the last two days. </div><div><br /></div><div>We are the second car to leave and we turn left back towards Naracoopa and not continuing on an increasingly challenging road further to Sea Elephant Bay. There is a sign advertising coffee, but like other operators, I guess they have headed for the mainland for winter - closed. So a quick nip down to the long wharf where once there was sealing prevalent, but no longer.</div><div><br /></div><div>Turning back for Currie we opt to stay on the fully sealed road and this time not take the scenic route. Gen is now sick of gravel roads and sandy tracks - she can now say "been there, done that!" Its getting late for lunch and although we have loved the great pies from the <a href="https://www.google.com/search?gs_ssp=eJzj4tZP1zesMCs0ijcrMmC0UjWoSEy0MEixMEkxMDFKMksxS7IyqDBJszCwtExOMzFOS7ZMSrLwEs3OzEtXyCzOScxLUUhKzE7NyC8tTgUAMDYXIg&q=king+island+bakehouse&oq=king+island+bakehouse&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j46i39i175i199j0i390l2.7668j0j7&client=tablet-android-samsung-nf-rev1&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#wptab=s:H4sIAAAAAAAAAONgVuLWT9c3rDArNIo3K3rEaMYt8PLHPWEp3UlrTl5jVOfiCs7IL3fNK8ksqRSS5GKDsvileLmQ9fHsYuL1yU9OzAnIz3RMyi8tWcSqlp2Zl66QWZyTmJeikJSYnZqRX1qcqlCgn6OQXFpUlJmqkAhSCABpHly0gQAAAA" target="_blank">King Island Bakehouse</a>, we are also craving something that is not a pie by now. One of the three golf courses on the Island is next door to the motel where we stayed, so we called in there to see if we could get some lunch.</div><div>Yes, we can. It is fairly basic fare but my burger and Gen's battered fish (Gummy = shark) and chips was fresh and crisp. This restaurant is being operated by people of Indian descent - if only I could be sure that the curry on offer was not too spicy, I would have preferred to give it a go, but alas my mouth and stomach take so <b style="font-style: italic;">little </b>heat these days.😪</div><div>We continued down to Beach which is just beyond the motel, down the next dune so to speak and found the other big industry here - the <a href="http://www.kelpind.com.au/" target="_blank">King Island Kelp Factory</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div>Bull kelp is harvested from the beaches of King Island by independent contractors. At present there are only 6 licensed harvesters, who must take only from what mother nature has 'donated'. They cannot harvest from the rocks. The kelp is dried on high, hanging S shaped hooks, then racks to air dry, before being fed into wood fired kilns for dehydrating. Most of the Australian supply is shipped to Ireland for processing into Alginate Acid which is used extensively in the food and pharmaceutical industries, just to name two.</div><div><br /></div><div>One last destination to visit before we leave this interesting destination. Located close to the airport, we visited the award winning <a href="https://kingislanddistillery.com/" target="_blank">King Island Distillery</a>. Owned and operated and Heidi Weitjins, this was a gem of a find. They distil <span style="color: #202124; font-family: Quattrocento, serif; text-align: center;">King Island gin, vodka, brandy and limoncello. Gen is really taken with the Ruby Grapefruit Spirit, and thankfully they can arrange post, so we relieve them of some of their stock (<i>hic</i>). One gin in particular is interesting. Heidi's partner is a cray-fisher and they took a barrel of their gin and aged it <i><u><b>at sea</b></u></i>! It has a different taste - no doubt influenced by the cask being exposed to the salt-ladden air. The cellar door is actually their distilling plant, and as we taste and discuss each sample with <a href="https://kingislanddistillery.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral" target="_blank">Heidi</a>, her partners are beginning to bottle the last of the Gin from that sea-aged barrel! We drove right past it at first, following google maps which takes you beyond it. The trick is to follow the signs, even if it doesn't look like a cellar door! More evidence of the poor maps.</span></div><div><span style="color: #202124; font-family: Quattrocento, serif; text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #202124; font-family: Quattrocento, serif; text-align: center;">At the Airport, we leave the car, with keys in the ignition, as per instructions, and head into the terminal. We are early by about 2 hours, but really, there is little else to see given the remaining time. There are only 9 people booked on the plane, so again they have allocated the back row to us. BUT, there are about 40-50 people at the airport terminal. We see two jets - a Sharp Airlines and a REX plane plus a number of smaller planes. Turns out, we watch 4 other planes leave before ours lands, disgourging another tour group, and is ready for departure. Our plan is flying to Launceston via Wynyard.</span></div><div><span style="color: #202124; font-family: Quattrocento, serif; text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #202124; font-family: Quattrocento, serif; text-align: center;">Gen is very very tense - it is very cloudy and she is apprehensive about possible turbulence. One belted in, she grabs the seatbelt from the seat between us and wraps it tightly around her hand. I tell her that the trick is to try <i>not</i> to get too tensed up and suggest that she hold my hand instead. "<i>But I don't want to hurt you</i>" she says. You won't I tell her.</span><span style="color: #202124; font-family: Quattrocento, serif; text-align: center;"> The take-off was a little bumpy, but it was surprisingly smooth thereafter. I keep asking her if she can see land in an effort to keep her mind off her fear and she visibly relaxes. Finally we see land and can identify The Nut at Stanley and Table Cape just a little further east before we touch down.</span></div><div><span style="color: #202124; font-family: Quattrocento, serif; text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #202124; font-family: Quattrocento, serif; text-align: center;">So, King Island done and dusted. I am glad we went, but it was nothing like what we were expecting. All I can say is that the marketeers have done a fabulous job. For the Island itself, it needs some major investment and renewal.</span></div><div><span style="color: #202124; font-family: Quattrocento, serif; text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #202124; font-family: Quattrocento, serif; text-align: center;">Back in the car, or as Gen 'lovingly' refers to it, the POS, having paid the ridiculous sum of $12 for 3 days parking, we head back through Burnie and further east to our overnight stop in Penguin. The motel is right on the main road, with a rail line plus freight train behind us. The unit is HUGE and well set-out and supplied for someone with mobility challenges.</span></div>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-77491928341806546912022-04-06T08:32:00.002+02:002022-04-06T08:32:34.236+02:00Those Roaring Forties - famed in this regionSo the morning dawns wet and windy. Roaring forties is isn't but it is more blustery than yesterday. The whitecaps are dancing in the bay in front of our unit. And the exposed front of the motel units are being showered with salt-laden air blown in from the water over the low bushes that have also succumbed to the stiff breeze. Certainly explains the rusting on outdoor furniture and window and door frames.<div><br /></div><div>The motel has a tired, defeated air. Planter boxes outside each room have plants that are clinging stubbornly to life. Just. The rooms are clean, we have met the cleaner both days - she is pleasant and seems efficient, but everything is being done on a tight budget. The motel has a For Sale sign, but any buyer will be knocking down the dollars for sure. The 'accessible' room that we have been allocated is nothing of the sort. There has been a token effort - handrails have been added to the toilet and shower but the facilities themselves are not accessible - it would meet any standard inspection.</div><div>It has a comfortable bed, but when you see all the schmick advertising for King Island this is not what you expect.</div><div><br /></div><div>In fact, King Island has not been anything like what we expected. There is beauty here, a rugged defiant beauty. The land is under considerable strain. When we tell people we are from Queensland, they beg us to send the rain this way. The land is in drought and looks like it has been for some time. Its yellow and dry and the incessant wind is eroding areas where uncounted heads of cattle have walked the same path one after another time after time. There are not a lot of large trees, there are stands of paper-barks and stringy mulga with the odd white gums that shed their shards so that they drape on the bushy undergrowth. When we drive through wooded areas there is enough ti-tree that you can smell it on the air.</div><div><br /></div><div>Gen goes down to the Bakery to buy Egg and Bacon Rolls for breakfast and adds cheddar to each and avocado to hers. They are delicious. Freshly made on lovely soft long rolls with crusty semolina tops. They are too big for me to finish, but only because of the generosity of the fillings. And the coffee is good. And strong. Mmmm.</div><div><br /></div><div>We have decided to take a look at the south of the island today. We head out towards Grassy (<i>grassy what, afterall, it is usually an adjective</i>) and take a detour to see the Calcified Forest. Remembering what we were told by the car rental agent, if its on the map, its okay. So we confidently set down the gravel road. Now, the same rental agent also told us that the map is not accurate. As we lose GPS on Gen's phone, we also learnt that this statement is very very true. Distances are approximations only and roads are not marked accurately - like listed once when there are two entrqances, like distances not being anywhere near correct - kind of helps to explain why so many ships hit the rocks - the directions are shite, and have been so for hundreds of years! But the outcome of not being where you think you are is that you are more likely to have an adventure!</div><div><br /></div><div>We head off on what we think is Seal Rocks Road, and later turned out it was Seal River Road. The road (read bush track) gets sandy. Gen tenses up and I tell her to breathe. Let the car find its own way. We finally end up at a locked gate and the track abruptly stops. So we turn around and go back to the junction, only then realising that we mis-read the sign and have travelled down Seal River Road, not Seal Rocks Road. We continue on what is now the correct road, gravel but much better than the bush track we have just left. We work out that we have been down to the Colliers Swamp Conservation Area, getting as far as Big Lake. Our plan had been to visit the Calcified Forest just near Seal Roacks. Nearing the correct site, we see a new(ish) Parks and Wildlife sign announcing that we have indeed arrived at the Calcified Forest! Well, we have arrived at the carpark.</div><div><br /></div><div>As I mentioned earlier, the map is at best a mud map, the signs are just as contradictory! One sign says 630m each way and the other says 1.5 km return. While my maths might have once been questionable, even can calculate that the two figures differ by 240m. Not a big deal normally, but to me it most definitely IS a big deal. I had said to Gen this morning that I would have a go at walking the track - it is graded a 2 - easy, but not wheelchair friendly. Just after leaving the carpark we are met with the first of the uphill sections. Now, remember that the base landform here is one of dunes. And dunes travel (might explain the dicsrepancy in the length) but these are well stabilised dunes with grasses, mulga, ti-tree and the odd gum. Up hill, down hill we walk. And again, and again. In steeper parts, the path has been compacted with light gravel and edging boards, but overall it is very sandy. We have been walking for about 30 minutes with Gen leading the way and pausing every 40 - 50m to turn back and check that I am still following. Its about now that my legs are heading for jelly, as I said, an easy walk compounded by the sand. We see yet another hill so Gen suggests that I wait a minute while she pushes forward to see how much further it is. she is back quickly to announce tht the walk ends just over the next hill BUT it ends at a 100m walk across loose sand before you reach a timber viewing platform. With timber steps that begin with a large step from soft sand. Disappointed was not the word either of us use. There is now way that I can do this safely. So Gen pushes on to climb the platform and get some photos, while I turn to walk <i>slowly</i> back to the car. Now, natue is a strange beast - there is a small swallow on the path ahead of me. We chirp away together as I plod on. About 30m ahead, it hops ahead of me, stopping frequently to make sure I'm still with him. My own light avian guide!</div><div><br /></div><div>I get to the car about 4 minutes before Gen and am happy to stop, leaning against the dusty car to catch my breath. Too bad I didn't think to get one of the bananas or the water we are carrying from Gen before we parted! She's back before I know it and we both have a well-earned drink, draining the water-bottle dry. Sitting back in the car, we eat our bananas and are set to leave when another car arrives. Out hops a lady who takes a pack out. Booted up, pack on her back, I am sure that she was better suited to take that walk and even if it was a 1.5km return walk, it probably only felt like 1260m to her! Still I'm proud of myself. I would have walked just over a kilometre - the best I've done in a long time and even a low-graded walk, I can't help but think that if an anthropologist were to walk that path today, they would probably scratch their head and at our tracks (how do you explain a perfectly round small indent alongside my footprint?!</div><div><br /></div><div>We still haven't reached Grassy (grassy what??) so decide to give Surprise Bay where another boat was wrecked. Back to Pearshape - yes, that is the name of a locality here -settlers obviously had a sense of humour - can't believe that they have named an area Snodgrass - a favourite Goon character of Michaels! We get to Grassy - the second largest settlement on the Island and is laid out in a more ordered grid pattern. Still very tired looking, there is evidence of some newer construction. Lord knows what it would cost to build over here- all construction materials would need to be freighted in by barge. But for the most, it is simple weatherboard construction which weathers poorly really - it is whited-out, an outcome of inhospitable weather. The most modern building here apart from one or two swanky new-come homes, is the hospital.</div><div><br /></div><div>Right along this coast there are countless shipwrecks. And its easy to see why. The Island itself might be sandy, but it is completely enclosed by rocky outcrops and platforms. There is another lighthouse, the main port that had been used until the 1990s to ship scheelite mined just above the port. This is a mineral used in the making of tungestan and the company will have made some tidy $ during its operation, but they have done a very poor effort to rehablilitate the land. At the point beyond the port, which is now used to live-ship beef cattle (We see one laden trailer being shipped to the wharf area) there is a Penguin colony. As it is the middle of the day, we don't bother going all the way down to it as they are nocturnal and so will only be seen at night. We want to visit the Historical Museum at Currie that is only open and manned by volunteers every second day, so today it is. It is open between 2 and 4, and its almost 2pm now.</div><div><br /></div><div>We follow the main road back and ignore Siri when she wants us to take the scenic route. There are lots of wildlife for us to encounter on the way back, all of which like to use the roads, perhaps because it warms up during the day. We dodge wallabies, pademelons, Cape Barren Geese, domestic turkeys (gone wild) farmed geese and a myriad of birds - turn out that the Island is a bird haven with a number of hides strategically located at various sites across the island - Cecile would love it! We see eagles, hawks, thousands of finces, and of swallows, magpies on steroids, butcher birds and more black birds than there are people on the Island. We even encounter a small herd of Black Angus cattle on the road and patiently need to wait for them to decide which way they will scamper.</div><div><br /></div><div>Like the rest of Australia, roadworks rule the activity here - there are a number of projects being funded with federal government funding displaying the all familiar signage that I know from work. And with that construction we also see a tree-feling crew - god knows why, the trees are already well back from the narrow roads. As Gen says, "<i>why are they knocking down our CO2 filters?</i> Lots of newly sealed roads with loose stones. Gen drives like a pro!</div><div><br /></div><div>We well and truly get our laugh for the day when Gen pulls alongside a gaggle of geese, oh hang on, it was a rafter of turkeys and we spend a few, minutes gobble gobbling back and forward with then. The rooster is becoming quite indignant, probably at our atrocious pronunciation, so we head off laughing before he thinks to attack us!</div><div><br /></div><div>Finally we arrive back at Currie. We want to have a look at the King Island Museum which is manned by volunteers and only open every other day. Turns out today is the only day it will be open while we are here. It's on the edge of town just below yet another lighthouse. It's only when you get up to lighthouse levels that you can get a true appreciation for the treachery of the rocks. Close to the shore there are a myriad of rock ledges and platforms, and just past them, there are rocky outcrops where the waves break. Makes for testing photos, but I can only imagine how difficult it would be to navigate.</div><div><br /></div><div>Turns out, the museum is the former Lighthouse Keepers house. At 8 rooms, it was definately the most substantial building in the town. It has been built to weather the weather! The walls are about a foot thick and made of sandstone. The steps up into each room is large and the floorboards are wide original timbers. The museum has one volunteer on duty. She tells us that she contacted her friend on her way in telling her that town didn't seem busy so there was no need for her to come in as well! Turns out she was wrong and so she was kept very busy - there three other groups there at the same time as us. She was a wealth of local knowledge and passionate about the island and its people. Each room has been develop around a theme. Is it obvious that this museum has had the support of a professional catalogue service. The exhibits are well displayed and relate well to the theme of the room. Gen isn't really a museum kind of person, but here she finds enough to keep her busy while I drink in family histories and even read up a bit on some of the shipwrecks. The volunteer was saying that up until 1976 anyone could salvage from shipwrecks, but that after that it was banned. One of the visitors commented that she saw evidence of someone with a metal detector on one of the beaches this morning.</div><div><br /></div><div>I was asking the volunteer (Val) whether there had been a resurgence of population in town, based on the ABS statistics that I read this morning. She was delighted to tell me that there had been a number of younger families with ties to the history of the Island returning, bringing much needed children - so much so that an extra teacher has been sent to the school. We have seen much evidence of young ones, but it is still the school term, so I guess they are inside mostly on weekdays.</div><div><br /></div><div>We have booked accommodation in for dinner tonight at Boomerang By The Sea- the motel where we are staying - by all a counts it is a good restaurant and at the time of booking we see that it is operated by different people. After our visit to the museum we had gone back to our unit and I had had a sleep - that walk had done me in today!</div><div>We hear cars arrive and when we open the door just before 7 to walk around to the restaurant, the car park is full.</div><div>Up some unfriendly steps into the restaurant which is not quite full, but definitely doing a good trade. We are seated near a large picture window that in the long summer days (and with the added benefit of daylight saving a mere week ago) would have afforded a stunning view. Tonight all we see is black as the sun had set hours ago. The menu is definitely more upmarket than the pub last night but I am disappointed that there is so little seafood on offer. A friend Prue sends a message to make sure we try the King Crab - oh, if only that was a choice.</div><div><br /></div><div>There is a tour group of 8 people in and they are all served a half crayfish each - it must have been prearranged as it is not on the menu 😳. </div><div>We select a fried Camembert with fig and walnut jam to share as a starter, served with foccacia. Not what we expect, but much lighter and to be honest, nicer. Gen is thrilled that they have a good selection of meat choices and settles for Aged King Island Scotch Fillet, cooked blue and served with confit local potatoes, baby carrots and brocollini. I had the Prawn and Crab Papardelle - hold the chilli. It to was cooked to perfection, although a very big serve with 8 large prawns still succulent and quite a bit of Crab broken through the dish. Our preferred King Island chesse plate was sold out (what the?!) so we chose a creme brulee and a Sundae. Hard to stuff those up. Port arrived, but coffee didn't. Not quite what we expected. We both got the feeling that the main tourism market is the golfer these days - overhearing the partners of the chest-bumping golfers, we get the impression that they feel likewise.</div><div><br /></div><div>Back to our room, down those steps (our waiter was nice enough to offer a hand) and I begin the blog. Internet coverage drops out well before I am finished so I go to bed frustrated to have lost an hours worth of wit. 😞 😞</div>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-90587874077458749302022-04-04T15:17:00.001+02:002022-04-04T15:17:09.601+02:00King Island - let the food porn commence . . .<p>We left the <a href="https://leisureville.com.au/" target="_blank">Leisure Ville Holiday Centre</a> nice and early to make sure we were at the airport with plenty of time to load the wheelchair and me.</p><p>It is quiet as we leave the accommodation and the light still early. Nothing moves quickly here and we follow a car until the town centre turnoff at about 40 kph. But the airport is only 5 minutes from the Park so we have left plenty of time. Still took a wrong turn - its a little frustrating how long it takes the GPS to catch up with your real-time location. Gosh, talk about first world problems!</p><p>The airport is fractionally smaller than Hervey Bay. Yet is it welcoming, friendly and efficient. The first real surprise is the cost of parking - first couple of hours free then $2 per hour. For longer periods, the price drops dramatically. 3 days or part thereof is going to cost us the princely sum of $12! The next surprise was that at 8am the coffee shop opened and the regular travellers, complete with business suits and laptops all queue for <i>their </i>regular. </p><p>There are two planes on the tarmac. A <a href="http://www.sharpairlines.com" target="_blank">Sharp Airlines</a> Metroliner that is our plane for King Island and a <i>Rex </i>Airlines plane. I guess it is heading for either Hobart or perhaps Melbourne. They advise us that they will board us first before other passengers. I took one look at the steps up into the plane - there was no way I could manage them, and there was no guide rail, rather just a rope on either side, We book the wheelchair on as luggage - Sharp have one to take me out to the plane and once there they wheel out a manual lift which I walk on to and they <i>manually</i> crank me up. It feels like I am going to be higher than the plane itself! Once at my regal height, the 'lift' is wheeled the remaining 6 feet to the plane and once the lip is inside the plane, it is lowered so that there is no gap for me to trip on. "<i>Mind your head ma'am"</i> I am advised as a set of hands guides me from behind and another pair welcomes me in to the plane. </p><p>We were surprised to see the plane already half-filled. Wow, this must be the plane from Launceston. It carries a total OF 15 passengers and two pilots. Configuration of seven rows of one seat on either side of the aisle plus one row of three at the very rear, adjacent to the divider from the freight half of the plane. Gen and I have two seats 7B and 7C in that back row. We assume that there is no-one in 7A and have to make a mad scramble when a lady, obviously a regular passenger walks down. She insists that she is fine to sit in the centre seat, but thankfully for us (and her) the co-pilot suggests that we would all be more comfortable if she moved to the other single spare seat on the plane. Without request, he brings a seatbelt extender and says that he didn't want Gen to feel like she was being strangled for the entire flight! </p><p>After a short safety briefing which entailed an explanation on how to fit a life vest, and how to plug in to the oxygen supply if advised - none of this masks dropping from the bulkhead. There are quiet giggles when I ask if the life vests are all new "<i>Never used</i>" was his quick reply! The taxi out to the runway perimeter seems to take forever. Gen is not the best of fliers and this plane will be the smallest either of us have flown in. She tenses, eyes shut and fists tightly clenched as we roar down the runway and lift into the blue yonder. Today however, it is the white yonder, not blue as there is almost 8/8 cloud cover. Disappointing as I was hoping to get some nice photos of the Tasmanian coast as we flew over, and then of King Island on our approach. The cloud is slowly peeling back from the coast as the rest of the area around Wynyard comes to life. They cling on lingering in valleys. </p><p>We reach cruising altitude not too far from Wynyard and from then on, we have a blanket of rolling white below us. The clouds look and behave much like waves with very distinct peaks and troughs. They look snug and cuddly. The light is short - 30 minutes, so its almost a case of as soon as we reach cruising altitude, we are beginning our descent! Gen again gets very tense as we come down through the cloud layer - this is the one bumpy bit on the flight. </p><p>I am not sure what I was expecting King Island to look like, but it wasn't this. The land is flatter than I imagine - I mean there are hills, but looking from above, it is clear to me that these are stabilised dunes. There are a million small lakes/ponds/dams. And everything is so dry. The landscape is shades of yellow and light green as opposed to the lush green palette that I had been expecting. Before long, we have touched down and are taxiing to the gate. Gen and I wait on board while all the other passengers alight and then Gen walks ahead of me to the plane door. She alights and I am left at the top of the steps. A lift is being wheeled out - this one motor driven as opposed to the one in Wynyard. Once it is aligned with the door again I step onto it and they lower it ever so gently. I get the feeling that this is not used too often! I am happy to help them all hone their skills 😉. Seeing my wheelchair being unloaded, Gen suggests that we just use ours. Off we head for the terminal, Gen pushing me, me holding the ctutches, Gen also wheeling our carry-on luggage that had been booked as freight and the co-pilot wheeling the lift.</p><p>We are back in the land of tourism appreciation. "<i>You are very welcome</i>" is the catchphrase that we are greeted with at every point again. The young lady at the hire car desk at the airport is cheerful and confident. She explains the rules - if the road isn't marked on the map, then the insurance won't cover it. Unsealed roads are fine. so long as it is marked on the map! There is a network of sealed roads and about twice as many unsealed!</p><p><a href="https://kingisland.org.au" target="_blank">King Island</a> is not large at a mere 1,098 sq. kms. But it is the largest island in the New Year Group and the second largest in Bass Strait, between northern Tasmania and southern Victoria. There are three main towns - centrally located Currie (the largest and centre of the Island's administration), Grassy in the south and Pegarah on the east coastline. Once we have the car organised, we decide to drive into Currie, 9kms from the airport to have some brunch. The King Island Bakehouse is renowned, so its here we head.</p><p>Gen is ecstatic. Our hire care is a Nissan X-Trail. She sits higher than in the Lancer. While the inside capacity is the same, just the fact that it has a bit more 'grunt' makes her happy. I'm pleased for her! <a href="https://kingisland.org.au/experiences/top-10-activities/" target="_blank">King Island</a> has more than its per sq. km allocation of things to see and do. And that first stop for us is the Bakehouse. They are known throughout Tasmania for their pies. We are standing looking at their menu board when the attendant asks what we want. "<i>Eeny, meeny, miny, mo</i>" was my first reply that got a giggle. I really want to try their crayfish pie before we leave here, but fear that it will be too rich at this time of the day. So we settle for plain beef pies, a mini pecan tart and a slice of (sublime) honey cinnamon roulade. Plus a coffee each. we sit inside, out of the wind and slowly savour those morsels of local goodness.</p><p>Hunger dealt with we decide to drive north toward Cape Wickham. We start out on the sealed road, but its not too long before "<i>Ooh, that sounds interesting</i>" gets the better of me and we head onto gravel roads. We head for Quarantine Bay where there are the wrecks of four ships in the area. We travel through rolling dunes, miles and miles and miles of them. We see large herds of hereford and black angus bulls. Hundreds to the hectare, literally. I can't believe the load per hectare. It is maybe 100% more than I have ever seen before. The birdlife is amazing. There are flocks of paired Cape Barron Geese, more blackbirds than anywhere else - and they are HUGE. Then there are the domesticated geese being farmed, pheasants that take flight as we pass them. Millions of tiny wrens and swallows flock together in murmurations sweeping through the sky all around us. We saw a solitary eagle soaring on the thermals before diving to some prey we could not see. There was a peacock and two peahens dashing into the briar, turkeys being fatted and the ever-present seagulls - the common white ones as well as the brown Pacific gulls. Yes, King Island is a bird haven. There are a number of hides across the island and April is devoted to a birdwatching and monitoring program.</p><p>Moving on we are still driving north - its not far, but the roads need to be driven carefully and slowly. We pass the <a href="http://www.kingislanddairy.com.au" target="_blank">King Island Dairy</a>, home to the wonderful King Island Cheeses, and we vow to have lunch here on our return trip. Finally we reach Cape Wickham and the <a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_Wickham_Lighthouse" target="_blank">Cape Wickham Lighthouse</a>, home to Australia's tallest lighthouse, built in 1861 and then automated in the 1920s. It sends its light far out into the inky depths to the west of Tasmania and was built in response to the numerous ships that had crashed into the rocks of King Island. Initially it caused further sinkings when captains mistook the lighthouse for one on the southern point of Victoria and then turning south and sailing straight into treacherous rocks. Gen takes a walk along the beach and we sit for half an hour, just taking it all in.</p><p>Our hunger gets the better of us and we turn south back to the King Island Dairy. The cheese tasting and history building is quiet with only one other couple there. We opt for the cheese tasting - a sample of six of their cheeses: Three Rivers Triple Cream Brie, Victoria Cove Smoked Camembert, Lighthouse Blue Brie, Endeavour Gorgonzola Style Blue, Surprise Bay Cheddar and Stokes Point Smoked Cheddar. I discovered that I do like (good) blue cheese and Gen is finally developing a palate for cheese (yay!). We also had a Baked Brie with walnuts, thyme and local (manuka) honey. Oh it was so good. we bought some souvenirs and have sent some cheese home. We will host a cheese tasting when we get home - better let us know if you want an invitation! In order to get them home, we rush back to Currie so that we can make the post. Our parcel will be kept refrigerated until it leaves the Island! Guess we aren't the first to do this.</p><p>The afternoon is drawing to a close, so we head to check in to our accommodation. <a href="https://www.boomerangbythesea.com/" target="_blank">Boomerang By the Sea</a>. Set on the edge of a cliff with views out over a rocky cove we hold high hopes. Not fully dashed, but this property is very quiet and looks very tired. There are three rooms being checked in today - we know this because there is a sign on the reception door with our names and room numbers, and the advice that keys are in the doors! Talk about trusting! However, we know that there is at least one policeman on the Island because he was eating his morning snack at the same time as us in the bakery this morning - and its not easy to flee the island!! Still, the room is clean and the bathroom is accessible. Turns out Monday night is everyone's night off with the exception of Wild Harvest - the paddock to plate restaurant in Grassy. We phone expectantly, but they are booked out all month. So we head down to the King Island Hotel for dinner tonight. Very pub food, my Schnitzel was tasty with herbs and cheese in the crumb and Gen's Eye Fillet was cooked to perfection - blue but not leaking blood! She was happy. She was going to have vegetables instead of the house salad but at an extra $6 she decided no. Its easy to understand, we saw potatoes at $5.8/kg, mandarins at $15/kg and capsicum was $16.6/kg. Turns out, vegetables are at a premium here!</p><p>Day 1 of 3 done, we are tired and heading for bed. Tomorrow we will head to the south to Grassy and a Calcified Forest. Sleep well.</p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-61402431211035014822022-04-03T17:03:00.001+02:002022-04-03T17:03:30.388+02:00The story of The Nut<p>Following our disappointing night last night, we returned to our little cabin to continue our search for accommodation when we arrive back on the 'big' island on Wednesday night. We had booked a unit at a motel between Wynyard and Burnie, but after driving passed it the other day, we cancelled it. They are at the back of a pub that is in the middle of nowhere (figurtaively speaking of course) that is surrounded by industrial units. And on our way back last night, it is lit up with neon signs highlighting Gaming and Licensed. Yep, <i>very</i> glad we cancelled it.</p><p>This has always been the way that I have travelled, with a start point and a finish point/date and little else planned. That flexibility has afforded me some wonderful opportunities that would have been missed if I had already locked in other plans. <br />Covid however, has put a big damper on this style of travel. Without the opportunity to travel internationally, everyone craving an 'overseas' trip is presently travelling in Tasmania. I kid you not! And so, we are struggling to find accommodation at short notice. So today we abandoned plans to come back to Burnie and will travel a little further east to stay for the night we arrive back in Tassie at Penguin. Then we are moving on directly to Launceston for 4-5 days and will do day trips in the region. Staying in Penguin will also provide opportunity to have a morning catching up with Bruce in Ulverstone - its been many many years!</p><p>Travelling for over a month necessitates that some of the boring 'normal' daily activities to be done. While I don't scrimp on holidays, I refuse to spend much of our budget on continually buying new clothes! Ergo, washing is a must. Staying in self-catering accommodation provides opportunity to make our own breakfasts (and other meals if preferred) <u>and</u> provides options for laundry. Once we have had our breakfast of crumpets with honey and some of the fabulous cheese we have been lucky enough to purchase, Gen takes herself off to the laundry which is conveniently opposite our cabin. </p><p>Washing on average once a week has worked well. But you are never in the right place at the right time - one place requires $1 coins for washing machine and/or dryers, other require $2 coins. And it is almost always the ones we don't have - oh, for some consistency!! The actual cost of a load of laundry is $4 per load, plus an additional $4 if you want to put it all through the dryer. We prefer to <i>not </i>use dryers and were thrilled that there was a clothes line outside the back of our cabin WITH some pegs! We travel with a small twist line that doesn't require pegs, but haven't had to resort to it yet. </p><p>The day is beeyootiful! We are headed for a top of 21, there is. little cloud cover and only a gentle breeze blowing. The washing is gently dancing on the line as we head west towards Stanley. It takes us a bit to get going this morning, and we blame the ennui of our slack day yesterday!</p><p>Stanley is a 66 km drive that will take us about 50 minutes snaking our way west along the coast. Its a drive through beautiful countryside, rolling hills and far off mountain ranges to our left, with coastal beaches and rocky headlands to our right. There are dancing lights across the waters as clouds move in and out of view - its truly looks like diamonds sparkling. </p><p>Gen has been telling me all along of her first visit to Stanley and how proud she was that she had walked the path up <a href="https://tasmania.com/points-of-interest/the-nut-in-stanley/" target="_blank">The Nut</a> rather than take the chairlift. She did that because she has a fear or heights. We come around a bend and there it is - The Nut. We are 38 kms away, and it fills the centre of my vision. It is enormous! As we draw nearer, you can see the path zig-zagging up The Nut - it stands out clearly and the people 'walking' up the path look like ants! We have also been told that <a href="http://www.hurseyseafoods.com.au" target="_blank">Hurseys</a> is a really good seafood restaurant. </p><p>Daylight saving ended in Tasmania in the wee hours of this morning. When we arrived in Stanley it had just gone 12 noon. We see the big Crayfish that signifies Hurseys, and given our light breakfast, decide that we should have lunch first given that they are only open for lunch between 12 and 2 pm. Lunch will also fuel our trek on The Nut. We enter the premises through the takeaway shop. There is a lift to the first floor restaurant. As the lift doors open you are greeted with magnificent views across the small port to the sheltered bay. The restaurant is spotless, well laid out and we are met promptly by a young waitress dressed in a simple, smart black uniform with the company logo embroidered in red.</p><p>She asked if we had a reservation, and as I looked around the restaurant, there was only two other tables seated, I answered no. We were shown to a window-side table and left with menus to contemplate our hunger and how best to satisfy it!! There were Specials Boards around the room. Now, their speciality is Crayfish, or as we better know them - LOBSTER! And as the saying goes, "<i>when in Rome . . ."</i></p><p>In the end, we order a Cold Seafood Platter that included a half medium lobster (1.1kg whole), prawns, pickled octopus, smoked salmon, salad and sauces; and another half medium lobster that was served with chips and salad. OMG - there was so much <strike>lobster</strike> crayfish. It was so white, so succulent, so moist, so delicious. Gen tackled (some of) the prawns, octopus and salmon and I think perhaps a mouthful or two of the salad. The rest of the salad and the chips went to waste. Honestly, we should have thought to tell them not to serve the 'sides'. It was quite wasteful, but if I had tried to eat anything other than the crayfish, then I am quite sure that I would have been sick. The service was impeccable and the meal delicious. Great value for money too.</p><p>Lunch done, we headed the couple of streets to The Nut chairlift building. There is a cafe at the base, but we decide that we need to walk off our lunch before we have a Valhalla Ice Cream. Gen looks up the path and is amazed that five years before she had actually climbed the path. It is <i>very very </i>steep. There is no way that I could have walked any of it. It was enough of challenge to walk the incline to the chairlift office! Gen has gone very quiet. Knowing that I can't walk the path, and wanting to make sure that I saw the stunning views from The Nut. She also understands that I am going to need assistance in getting on and off the chairlift with my crutches. So, facing her fears, she came along with me on the chairlift. The young man at the base station explained that he could not stop the chair, but could slow it down. He was calm, which was important in reassuring Gen, and we managed to take our seats without incidence. He radioed ahead to the top station to advise that we would need assistance. She went quiet, very quiet. I tried to reassure her, encouraged her not to look up or down, but the look around at the level where we were. It was not a long ride - there are four numbered pylons only.</p><p>We arrived shortly at the top without incident and alighted without problem. At the top of The Nut, there are a number of walks that can be taken. I want to try to get to the closest lookout which is a 250m walk. I managed to get about 200m along the undulating path before we are met with a flight of stony steps without any handrails. I don't dare to try to go further. Gen is disppointed, me not so much - it is what it is, and I was pleased to be able to do at lest part of it. But I don't want to let my lack of ability to hinder Gen revisiting the walk she had previously done. So I returned to the chairlift station and waited at a picnic table. Gen intrepidly set off on the circular path around the top of The Nut that is 2.2km in length.</p><p>I watch people come and go, those who have come up on the chairlift like us, and others who arrive red-faced with the exertion of the steep walk up the path. There were older groups, quite a few mature ladies travelling together, a surprising number of families with young or teenage children and lots of Asians travelling this part of Tasmania.</p><p>There is surprisingly little wind - just the occasional eddy. Its surreal because even when there was a wisp of wind, there was no sound. The tussocks of grass sway gently and silently. The only sound you can hear was the intermittent chatter of excited children "<i>I'm on the top of the volcano!" "No, not quite yet, but nearly,"</i> was the patient reply. Adults speak in hushed tones, as if so not to break the spell of this place. And from way below us in the town there is the sound of a vexed dog, barking constantly at something that was irritating him. </p><p>I do not really enjoy the downward trip, that feeling of leaving your stomach behind has never thrilled me, but I try to remain very calm so that Gen did not pick up on my jitters. Just look at the horizon I tell her, following my own advice - don't look down. The view is absolutely amazing - it truly is. You can see bay after bay after inlet and in the distance, cows grazing in fields and further away, mountain range after mountain range. </p><p>We arrive safely back down at the base and settle in for a coffee and a Valhalla Ice Cream. Delicious as always. Gen drove around the outside coves and past the convict remains of The Highfields. At this time on a Sunday, they are now closed so we head for our home base in Wynyard. En-route we take the coastal route off the Bass Highway to come back into Wynyard and make a quick detour to have a look at the <a href="https://lighthouses.org.au/tas/table-cape-lighthouse/" target="_blank">Table Cape Lighthouse</a> from the lookout on the next point. From this point you look across almost 100 klms of coastline from beyond Ulverstone in the east to Wynyard below us. Its is amazing. And all the rocky outcrops in the sea are good evidence of the importance of this lighthouse.</p><p>Back at the <a href="https://leisureville.com.au/" target="_blank">Leisure Ville Holiday Park </a>Gen collects the now dry washing. We spend a bit of time rearranging our luggage to take what we want to King Island tomorrow. As night falls, we head back in to Burnie to fuel the car, and to try to find the little penguins. The main season is from September to March during which time a volunteer organisation takes free guided walks to the nesting dunes. We follow Google Maps to where the centre is, are briefly mistaken for someone else as we slow down and wind the window down to ask directions (Oh, you are not who I was expecting. Do either of you smoke? No mate) - we hurry off before we are implicated in anything less than savory! (wink wink)</p><p>Finally we read between the map lines and find ourselves down at the shelter used by the guides. Locked up as tight as a barrel, deserted for the season. We do get out, we hear what we think are the penguins and our patience and persistence is paid off. We spend the better part of an hour taking night photos, trying not to fall over in the dark - thankfully the path is very even and flat. We watch and make noises with about 2 dozen little penguins - how very special!</p><p>The night sky is very dark tonight, showing lots of stars, but there is too much ambient light to get good photos - perhaps we will be luckier on King Island. We phone Antony to wish them a good holiday. They leave for Chinchilla at 5 am tomorrow morning for a week and are taking all 5 of their telescopes as well as their astronomical cameras with them. They will get great photos I know - they gifted me a print from their last trip there, for Christmas.</p><p>Off to King Island at 8am tomorrow - watch out for the food porn. Can't wait! </p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-77862326318441694512022-04-02T16:01:00.001+02:002022-04-02T16:01:40.778+02:00A Wynyard with no trains in sight.Its the weekend, and we all deserve a sleep in sometime, so today was our chosen day. The morning dawns clear - we have been so lucky with the weather in this trip down south. BOM is predicting 21 degrees today, so off comes the jumper and the spencer and out comes a short sleeved top. It makes a nice change from feeling like the Muffin Man! lol.<div><br /></div><div>Turns out that wall has not yet moved. We decide that a rest day is in order. The Leisure Ville Park is pleasant, sitting in the sun and sheltered from any wind. It's quiet too. I'm sitting in the sun squinting as I go through about a week's worth of emails. Gen is catching up on sleep and intermittently waking and browsing on the net. </div><div><br /></div><div>Wynyard is a quiet beach-side town with surprisingly little traffic. Likes it namesake in Sydney, there is a rail line and therefore presumably station here. But unlike Sydney, the trains have long since stopped running. Pity, kit would have made for a very picturesque trip from Burnie through to Stanley hugging the littoral dune, mere metres from the beach sands. The waves barely ripple this evening. Even a nipper would not be challenged. The tide is out and the rock shelves are all exposed, as are break-walls a little way off the beach and any number of rocky outrops. Yet the water is quite high on the beach. It will be interesting to see the tidal change.</div><div><br /></div><div>There are heaps of posts on the Travelling Tasmania Facebook pages with stunning photos of Aurora Australis sightings from the north west region of Tasmania. OMG that is where we are! The only challenge is that it is only visible in the wee hours of the morning. Is that something that we might like to try? Bloody oath it is. That means that we will need to get some rest today. That is also doable! So we will go into Burnie this afternoon and treat ourselves to a movie. It's the beginning of the school holidays so the pickings are a little lean, but Gen is wanting to see Morbius, and without anything jumping out for me, that is what we opt to see. The afternoon showing will be in time to allow us an early dinner before a few hours shut-eye if we want to venture out for some night viewing. </div><div><br /></div><div>Well, that was the plan. Turns out that our restaurant of choice didn't have any sittings until 8 pm so we decide to see a later showing before dinner. Gen was disappointed that Morbius was not dark enough whilst I was pleased that there was a half plausible story line and not too much blood and gore. The theatre did have Valhalla Ice Cream so that was another bonus. Weren't too many others in the theatre, just a group of teenage boys, with all the chest-thumping of such once the movie was over. Felt like standing up and telling them to watch out, I was the one with the crutches - don't worry you'll get it if you go and see the movie! 😄</div><div><br /></div><div>We have booked in to have dinner at Bayviews. The menu on their website holds much promise. Put on the glad-rags and all. The first hint that we might be disappointed is the volume of noise on arrival. Making our way to the beachfront entry, we pass the bistro and takeaway downstairs. Arriving at the restaurant upstairs (there is a lift thankfully) the noise is coming from here - the 'background' music is way too loud and this is matched by the noise of dining patrons. Our tables weren't quite ready so we ordered a cocktail and sat while the server cleaned a bar booth table for us to sit at - but not the filthy floor under it. The restaurant is packed - so much so that our waiter had to ask one lady to stand, and she moved her chair to enable me to pass with the crutches to our large window side table. Covid, what on earth is that? Despite all the signage at the restaurant entrance, there is no way a 1.5m rule could be applied <u>anywhere</u> here.</div><div><br /></div><div>We had like the look of the Chef's Tasting Menu at $120 per head (6 courses) but this is only available before 7:30pm. A little disappointed we chose a variety of entrees, mains, a dessert tasting plate and a 3-cheese plate. A glass of wine each and a coffee. An expensive evening wasn't totally wasted, the entree tasting plate was nice, and Gen said her lamb was really delicious, but we found the other menu choices were somewhat mis-matched. I am disappointed enough to provide some constructive criticism, but will do it directly to the management, not here.</div><div><br /></div><div>We have realised that there is too much ambient light here to hope to see any Aurora, but hope that King Island will afford us a better choice.</div><div><br /></div><div>Trying to decide where to book accommodation for our last couple of weeks. It's definitely more appealing to stay for more days in one spot and do day trips than it is to change accommodation daily.</div><div><br /></div><div>Monday morning nice and early we fly from Wynyard to King Island, returning late on Wednesday. We will book another couple of nights is Burnie and I hope to catch up with a friend from my teenage years - Bruce Harpley. He and his family live in Ulverstone, a short drive from Burnie. He is a <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Erics-Art-of-Glass-1632552317012353/" target="_blank">glass artist</a> in his spare time and I have previously bought Izabella a hand-made Tardis Clock for christmas a few years back from him.</div><div><br /></div><div>Tomorrow we are heading to Stanley and The Nut. More stories after then.</div>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-80929473579895494482022-04-01T14:13:00.000+02:002022-04-01T14:13:04.798+02:00We move to Wynyard in the NorthA late night following the trip to Strahan for the day has well and truly taken its toll today and this afternoon I hit the wall big time. I've just re-surfaced after a couple of hours sleeping to have dinner. We are presently watching Magical Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald while sitting under a blanket at the foot of the air-conditioner draught. You forget how cold it can be on the Coast and what a different cold it is to the cold of the mountains. It is a little 'damper' As though the cold air is carried on the droplets of the air.<div><br /></div><div>Snippets of the show <a href="https://www.roundearth.com.au/ship.html" target="_blank">'The Ship That Never Was"</a> last night come back unbidden. I swear I will never look at a vegetable steamer the same way again - it became a jellyfish flittering open and closed and when directed to sit, the audience cast member with the steamer became a box jellyfish. Get it? Sit. On a box. Box Jellyfish!</div><div>This play at one glance is full of fun and nonsense, but in reality, it is so much more. There is so much wit, social comment and references to current and past opinions, stances and stories that you really need to hold Richard Davey (the writer) and his actor daughter, Kiah is quite some esteem. I would have loved to spend some time with her after the play, but the light was fading fast and Gen wanted to be closer to our accommodation in Queenstown 45 minutes away before dark hit. It still feels a little strange that at after 7pm it is still light - daylight saving finishes here on Sunday, so we can take advantage of that extra hour for more sleep!</div><div><br /></div><div>Our stay at the <a href="https://www.goldrushinn.com.au/" target="_blank">Gold Rush Inn</a> has been unexpectedly comfortable. At the time of booking, we were having so much trouble finding accommodation that we took their last room, which just happened to be the Executive Suite. To be honest, it was a little more expensive than what we were hoping to pay, but believe me, it was worth every penny. We get the feeling that it must have, at one time, been the manager's residence. It is adjacent to the Reception and is the only room with undercover parking. There was a king-sized bed, a full lounge with a smart TV (and streaming service access!!) plus a full-sized kitchen with full-sized fridge, microwave, stove (not that we needed it) and a pod coffee machine! The table and chairs comfortably sat 4mpeople. We have had the space to bring e v e r y t h i n g out of the car to try to sort out what is being posted home, and what we will continue to carry, knowing full well that we will probably buy more souvenirs!</div><div><br /></div><div>After checking out we head into town to have a look around Queenstown. The Mining Museum is very comprehensive. Its like the Military Museum back home, while the title refers predominantly to the mining activity and history, the Museum also has an amazing collection of the social past of Queenstown. There are surely a number of people here who have collected every little item that relates to the living of lives in Queenstown - there are rooms and rooms and rooms devoted to it!</div><div>Some displays are indeed very unique - there is a whole room dedicated to the <a href="https://www.bassstraitmaritimecentre.com.au/mining-on-the-west-coast-1912-mt-lyell-disaster/" target="_blank">Mining Disaster of 1912 where a fire broke out, killing 42 men</a>. Amongst all the memorabilia was a list of the miners, their personal status (single, married, family man etc) and what compensation was paid. While the average appeared to be around 200 pound, some were as low as 10 pound and the largest was 700 pound. It seems that where a bereaved widow with children to support negotiated, she was taken advantage of, whilst the lawyer father of another single miner negotiated that highest figure. Seems that enterprise has changed little over the years, with the powerful taking advantage of those with less or no power.</div><div>We walked through the 7 rooms on the ground floor and there are another 16 floors on the two stories above us. There is no lift, and when I asked Gen if she wanted to go and take a look, she said no, that museums are not really her 'thing'. <i>"Why then did we come here?,"</i> I asked to which she said, "<i>I know you like them!"</i> Ain't that love!! She did however, find some of their geology collection of crystal specimens quite interesting.</div><div><br /></div><div>From here we drive into the Town Centre sand walk the couple of blocks. Oh good, there is the Post Office - we buy post bags and boxes to pack for home. And although is cost a tidy sum, it is still cheaper than excess baggage fees will be! And it gives us a chance to take a photo of the <b><span style="color: #ffa400;">orange</span></b> shop. It is not open, and with black plastic dropsheets hiding everything behind the window display, we will never know if in fact it every traded. It is bizarre and quaint and unusual and quirky all at once.</div><div><br /></div><div>We are headed back over the mountain ranges through to the north coast. In readiness for our side trip to King Island on Monday, we have decided to stay in Wynyard for the next couple of days, and do a few day trips from here. We have a cabin at the LeisureVille Caravan Park, on the Old Bass Highway here in Wynyard, right across the from Freestone Cove looking out across the bay and the mouth of the Inglis River to Table Cape - an imposing plateau jutting into the waters of the Tasman Strait. It is nice to have beach views again after all those majestic mountains.</div><div><br /></div><div>The drive over began in the mountains and I think that Gen is well and truly over the hairpins and ups and downs for the minute. One minute we are looking skywards at the dominant Dolerite Crags, the next we are travelling though dark tree'd tunnels through the rainforests. As I peer deep into the blackness, there are occasional shafts of light piercing the dense foliage and illuminating a single tree or fern, or at best, a glade. The closer we get to the coast, the thinner the trees become. No longer are they the lush growth of the ages, but are now the ordered, geometric, linear plantings of hardwood forests. No matter how clever man might be in growing timber for use, we can never match the beauty and mighty strength of mother nature with her trees of immense girth and ageless wisdom. </div><div><br /></div><div>We take a side detour to visit Zeehan - how many towns in Australia can claim to begin with a 'Z'? Dr Google (using the Austpost site) tells me there are 11! There are a number of small disparate museums here, and we again run into the hot rod cars towing vintage caravans that we saw at The Wall the other day. However, you could only buy a combined ticket at $25 per person - that explains why people were looking over the colourbond fence at the Railway museum. They would do better to offer a ticket to a single museum and discount tickets to multiple museums, so they did not lose all funds. I mean $50 for two of us to see the one museum we wanted to visi?! Nope. Not wanting to leave without spending any money, we stopped at the coffee cart outside the museum and bought coffees and pies - they are really good here. </div><div><br /></div><div>Back to the main road, we pass through Rosebery where there is supposed to be a good bakery - well, there might have been one. Not any more, it is closed and the shop marked For Sale in the window. There is an IGA with a post office franchise. Every other shop in the town is closed. This is an area in serious economic decline. I guess that even mining has an end-date.</div><div><br /></div><div>So we push on. Closer to the coast, we now return to those idyllic pastoral scenes - cattle being fatted in green fields, hay stock-piled for the winter, wrapped tightly in green or lilac wrappings. And the roadwork. Yep, kilometres and kilometres at 40 kph. we pass over newly laid bitumen and the smell takes me back to memories of my father-in-law who carried bitupave for the last of his working years. High above Burnie, we again see the sea as diamonds sparkling in the afternoon sun. Its a sight for tired eyes.</div><div>In recognition of our return to the coast, we decide on Fish 'n' Chips for dinner. Needing milk, once we check in we head into the town centre, passing a seafood outlet - right on the beach! Gen will come back later for our order. Turns out seafood is expensive all over the country - they have Trevalla for $50/kg fresh and as a meal combo, it is $23 per serve which turns out to be battered. However, that batter was so light - think tempura batter - and the fish so fresh, so white. It is a truly delicious dinner.</div><div><br /></div><div>A quiet night in watching some telly (supposed we really should go out late to try to see the Aurora Australis, but seriously we are too tired). Night all. we plan a sleep in tomorrow before a trip over to Stanley 45 minutes away so Gen can show me The Nut! Hope the chairlift is working - that'll be the only way I will be going up it!!</div><div><br /></div><div>Hope you are all well. Avagoodweekend as the saying goes. </div>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-85419134779155947982022-03-31T16:17:00.000+02:002022-03-31T16:17:29.304+02:00World Heritage Wilderness at its bestAlmost all of south west Tasmania is a National Park.<div>Wilderness areas are such vital resources in the dwindling untouched areas of our planet. And yet, for these to be understood and appreciated for what they are and the important role they play, people need the opportunity to safely explore these areas.</div><div><br /></div><div>This morning we are up the earliest we have started since leaving Brisbane. The alarm goes off at 5:30am. Argh, on holidays that seems all too early! But it is for good cause. This morning we are driving from Queenstown over the mountains and down the west coast slightly to Strahan to join the <a href="https://worldheritagecruises.com.au/" target="_blank">World Heritage Cruises</a>, a local family-owned company who operate cruises on the Gordon River. We get to Strahan in the early morning light, with Gen dropping me off near the door and going to find the parking.</div><div><br /></div><div>Remember, we were lucky to get the last two tickets on this boat. As I walk across the wharf apron towards the booking office, I marvel at the sleek vessel that sits alongside. It sure looks like someone has made a significant investment in this business. I can only hope that the last two years of Covid restrictions haven't crippled them. Surely now though, they are well into recovery. This boats seats 192 persons and carries 8 crew and 1 skipper. It is fully booked. And there is a second boat the same that we can only assume is also fully booked. Gen and I did a bit of mathematical calculation and at the income (less staffing, fuel and services) the company should easily service their debt. Good on them. </div><div><br /></div><div>I get into the office and see one of the sales staff immediately. While we had booked and paid for our tickets over the phone, I still need to collect them. I ask whether there was any option for Upper Deck seats - in the event of a cancellation or no-show. She explains that there have already been some requests, but that she will add our name to the list. In the meantime, she can offer us an upgrade from the centre seats to two window seats. Yes thank you, we most definitely want the upgrade. Another $70? Sure. An upgrade to the upper deck would have been another $150+.</div><div><br /></div><div>We get the call to board the boat at 8 am. We are the first in line, and as the crew warmly welcome up aboard, I repeat my request to be considered for any possibility of an upgrade to the upper lounge. We are told that it will be highly unlikely, and are shown to our seats 341 and 342 on the starboard (right) side of the boat. The boat is filled very efficiently with two of the crew on the main deck and another three on the upper deck, just directing people to their seats. In every sense, this is a very well-oiled machine!</div><div><br /></div><div>The boat is filled, and we are pulling away from the wharf on time at 8:30am. For the size of the vessel, it is very manouverable and responsive. The captain guides the boat - the <i>Spirit of the Wind</i> deftly through the Macquarie Harbour. A running commentary is continued by the crew, interspersed with video presentations by various 'charachters' that we get to know during our trip. We learn of the selttement of Strah<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">an and the development of the company in whose hands we place ourselves today.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">We commence our trip in Macquarie Harbour and travel the only safe channel with the history of past (early) engineering feats to render the passage safe for all vessels - of underwater 'walls' constructed with rock mined from the surrounding mountains. We continue at a standard speed, with very little wake - its amazing the power yet gentleness of such a large catamaran. There is no other marine traffic and there is a light rain falling gently against the huge picture windows that run the length of the boat. Inside, the cabin is spacious, with seating in a 2 aisle,4 ailse, 4 aisle, 2 seat configuration. despite the number of passengers, it is not crowded. Behind us is a service area where you can purchase snacks, morning tea, coffee, or alcoholic drinks. Lunch is included in the price of the tickets.</span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">I digress. We are approaching Hells Gates. while it might sound alarming, in today's world of technological feats, this narrow passage, surrounded by shallows that can be as little as inches deep, provides the only route out of Macquarie Harbour - and in to the wilder Southern Ocean with ease. This is the realm of the almighty 'Roaring Forties' those infamous winds that have been the downfall of many a sailor! Inside the gates, it is easy to tell where the channel runs as the water looks a deep blue. All the other waters are varying shades of an almost tropical azure - reflecting the shallowness of those waters. From time to time during the voyage, the captain displays the depth (electronic) charts he is following and we can easily see the channel. We are now through the 'gates' and into deeper water. There are whitcaps all around us, yet the rise is still smooth, we can feel an increase in the swell, but it is not alarming, just more of a slight rolling sensation.</span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">The next point of interest is to be shown a small part of the large industry that is salmon farming. We are advised that there are three companies farming salmon here in large circular 'pens' covered with mess, not to keep the fish in, but to keep predators out. Predators that include the Australian Fur Seal who very 'on-cue' pops his head to acknowledge the mention - far too fast for anyone to capture it by photo. Here one second, gone the next! Much of the process is mechanised with large vessels pulling up alongside the pens to dispense feed, clean pens and the waters they sit in, and even to vacuum harvest the fish from the waters once they have reached a marketable size.</span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">We continue past Sarah Island, the home of yet another penal colony in this beautiful, isolated part of the world. Here were housed repeat offenders from points all over the settled world. But more of that later.</span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">We have now reached the mouth of the mighty Gordon River. Without this cruise, the only way to see this area is by overland hike - and a <i>very</i> significant one at that. We have entered the World Heritage Listed area are the Gordon-Franklin River systems. The boat pauses, momentarily, as the diesel engines are switched to almost silent electric engines for the cruise in to the pristine waters that might have been lost. (<i>There is a fleeting reference to the Green Lobby that saw the danger of dam construction in this area stopped, but this is definitely not the focus of the day.</i>) There are a number of reasons that this hybrid boat with its electric engines is used. This provides the smoothest possible ride, and leaves no wake in its path. No wake means minimal water disturbance, and no damage to the banks of the river. Walk lightly, leaving nothing but footprints. We continue upriver until we reach the Gordon River Heritage Landing. It is here passengers disembark for a 45 minute walk to explore the old rainforest environment. I didn't partake as I wasn't sure that I could have completed the whole walk that is a one-way circuit all on a boardwalk again the manage any possible damage to this pristine area. Everyone returns to the vessel rosy cheeked from the chill, but animated with their stories of finds. Gen brings back photos including some of the largest fungi she/we have ever seen.</span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">The company knows their passengers. It is know that they announce that lunch will be served. As I said before, a very well-oiled machine. They call small blocks of seats at a time to come to the service area, collect a plate, select your choice of lunch from a buffet of all Tasmanian produce including smoked salmon, freshly shaved ham, chicken pieces, pasta salad, coleslaw, potato salad, beetroot salad and green leaves. Breadrolls and butter complete the choices. You took what you wanted, and really there was no limit. Generous helpings of that salmon with thinly sliced segments of lemon available, were taken by almost everyone. And they just kept filling the platters! That smoked salmon was some of the freshest salmon I think I have ever tasted, not having smoked it myself. Lunch over, the staff collected plates rather than having a whole group of people milling around with scraps and empty plates - well-oiled!!</span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">We are quietly motoring back towards Macquarie Harbour. Sated, people are quiet, reflecting on their experience thus far. There are mangroves, lush grassy banks and reed beds protecting towering trees, fallen logs that are slowly decaying to provide feed for new growth, and ferns like you imagine were found in Gwondanaland. It is magical. And green. Rich and precious.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">Before too long, we are back at Sarah Island. The boat stops in sight of some of the salmon pens and some of the passengers </span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #363636; font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.75px; white-space: pre-wrap;">step ashore to explore the harshest convict settlement in Australia. A 1hour guided tour, reliving the absorbing tale of how the convicts turned a hell on earth into one of the largest ship building yards in Australia. Pre-dating Port Arthur and feared by every convict, this settlement has a 'history with a twist'. The guide, Kiah, was the lady we booked our tickets with and she is </span></span><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.75px; white-space: pre-wrap;">enthralling</span></span><span style="color: #363636; font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.75px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and engaging. Again, I waited aboard while Gen joined those on-shore. Once all who wanted to go shore were ashore, I carefully got off the boat and walked the jetty, getting some photos of sandbeds, exposing shorelines and clumps of rocks. There is plenty of evidence of the former uses on Sarah Island - the ruins of a tannery, bakehouse and the ship-building works. Kiah brings this history alive through the stories of the inhabitants - convicts and freemen. The afternoon is passing quickly, and as the day passes, the sun heads for the horizon and the temperature is dropping.</span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #363636; font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.75px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #363636; font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.75px; white-space: pre-wrap;">We pass again through Hells Gates and on the ebbing tide, we see just how shallow the waters really are. The Spirit of the Wind docks just after 2.30 with thunderous applause for the crew and company.</span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #363636; font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.75px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #363636; font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.75px; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have tickets for the show '<a href="https://www.roundearth.com.au/" target="_blank">The Ship That Never Was' </a>starting in a few hours. Just enough time for a visit to the souvenir shop, a local restaurant for coffee and cake - Chocolate Molten Cake with raspberry ice-cream - Valhalla of course - and as we are sharing. We request a second scoop!!</span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #363636; font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.75px; white-space: pre-wrap;">A walk through the Strahan waterfront displays small but rather affluent looking period homes - as you would expect in a flourishing economy of free settlers.</span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #363636; font-family: inherit;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0.75px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">Around to the Tourist Visitor Centre advises us of the location for the play - it is here that we collect our pre-booked tickets. Returning to the car, we drive back to here, so we are close when the play finishes. This play is the longest continual-running production in Australia - now in their 28th year. The setting is in a covered amphitheatre, covered, but still very open to the wind. No-one cares what they look like - we are all dressed for the weather! - mismatched, coats, beanies, gloves and blankets. Sitting on 'cushioned' (not really) planks in a tiered theatre-in-the-round setting, there is not a bad seat in the house.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">Right on 5:30pm the show starts. And who should be a key actor? Why, Kiah of course!! In fact, there are only two actors to play the ten characters. It starts off well enough, with the seasoned calmness of a show well-known. Soon, it become apparent that audience participation is a must, and provides not only the other characters, but also the chorus and the off-stage commentary. The show is amazing. There was not a single person in the audience who did not fully engage with the players and the remarkable set that has been designed and constructed. A true theatre in the round. </span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">Gen tells me that she was secretly begging not me, not me, as they were corraling the participants, but I like to think that many of the audience were secretly begging to be chosen. The story, set on Sarah Island, tells the last story of the island, the last escape - and the wittiness that saw the fleers, freed. It involves the construction and pirating of the ship <i>'The Fredrick'</i>. The story is based on truth, and the play was written by Kiah's father - Richard Davey. We bought the book - I do not want to spoil it for anyone else who might get a chance to come and see this, so if you want to know more, you will have to borrow our book.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">Suffice to say, it was a scream, engaging, exhilarating, participatory and most of all FUN. There was not a single person who left quietly. Everyone was chatting (and chattering as it is freezing by the time the show finishes at 6:45pm). what a wonderful effort and result from a small production company, passionate about their stories. A huge WELL DONE. #TheShipThatNeverWas.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">A dusk drive back to Queenstown where Gen is really getting sick of hairpin bends. Tomorrow we leave for the north - with a base in Wynyard for the next few days.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">Have we missed an election announcement while we have been here in the south? The quantity of political advertising is increasing exponentially. Bring on the bloody election, it can't come and go fast enough. </span></span></div><div><section id="content-wrapper" style="letter-spacing: 0.75px;"><div class="content" id="yui_3_17_2_1_1648727999978_76" style="position: relative; width: 1280px; z-index: 50;"><div class="content-inner" data-content-field="main-content" id="yui_3_17_2_1_1648727999978_75" style="margin: 0px auto; max-width: 960px; padding: 100px 102.396px;"><div class="sqs-layout sqs-grid-12 columns-12" data-type="page" data-updated-on="1576556970311" id="page-57148b872b8dde54a355d99d"></div></div></div></section></div>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-42683289516683058552022-03-30T14:46:00.000+02:002022-03-30T14:46:06.301+02:00The mid-west of Tasmania also deserves exploring.<div>Happy birthday to Gen - my travel companion, my partner in crime and my rock. I hope that you are enjoying your holiday in Tasmania as much as I am.</div><div> </div>After reading much on what to see, do, taste and experience in Tasmania, before we had left home, I was determined to try to see some of the lesser visited areas of this amazingly beautiful state. After our visit to the Cradle Mountain National Park, we awoke this morning looking up to an altogether different view. The clouds still hang low over the peaks, and as the day warms and the clouds and their trailing mist lift, the 'different beauty' of the peaks around us make themselves known.<div><br /><div>Following a 6 episode binge of season 2 of Bridgerton last night, this morning we sleep in. Looking at touring options around here last night, (and knowing that Thursday has been set aside for Strahan) we decided to drive to Derwent Bridge to visit The Wall. If you know of it, then this is enough information. For those who don't click <a href="https://thewalltasmania.com.au/" target="_blank">here</a>. </div></div><div><br /></div><div>The morning is drab, which is kind of fitt<span style="font-family: inherit;">ing for the setting we find ourselves in. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">This is an active mining town. Queenstown sits low in the belly of the mining area, surrounded by mined waste, new tailings and rocky outcrops currently being sifted for copper. <span style="background-color: white; color: #272727; font-size: 16px;">The past mining and mass logging has created a surreal and rocky 'moonscape'. </span></span>There is a dusty air, touched with the whiff of rotting eggs - i.e. sulphur (previously used in the refining of gold). And with that dusty air, there is a divide in the town. It is obvious to my thought at least, that there is the old and the new.</div><div><br /></div><div>The new part of town wears a coat of success - there are enterprises flourishing with locals and visitors alike popping in and out of mixed businesses,service ships and cafes. The Empire Hotel, home to the The Rusty Iron Thai restaurant where we purchased the delicious dinner last night has any number of people milling around outside, obviously waiting on orders. The library is new, bold and modern in design. The hospital and Council sit snug in one of the side streets and, on the same side of the railway line as our motel, there are newer, more modern and perhaps slightly more affluent homes.</div><div><br /></div><div>In the back streets behind the main shopping area, up the hills of the old tailing mounds, the houses are older, smaller, tired and dusty. They sit tightly side by side on small blocks without adornment or gardens. Windows are small and the construction materials are mismatched at best, perhaps dangerous (think asbestos) at worst. Out in the open, the reality of class divide silently screams. </div><div><br /></div><div>But, there is <b><i>someone</i></b> with a quirky, cheeky outlook. One of the nameless shops, like many other regional towns, there are plenty of vacant shops - some more recent, others with the layer of ages old dirt. Although not appearing open, it is artistically displaying all things orange. Bold, brassy, colourful and confident <span style="color: #ffa400;"><b>ORANGE</b></span>. Everything from orange tupperware containers that we (or our mums) all once had, to an orange vacuum cleaner to orange crockery to orange linens to orange furniture! And whilst having a look around town this afternoon, we think that we found his home - this one was painted the EXACT same shade. And Gen thinks she might have seen the owner earlier, a long-bearded gentleman and his family - and he and his she are dressed in that same bright hue. A spark of bright in a town of drab. Fascinating! </div><div><br /></div><div>Queenstown is where the historic Western Railway operates from, but no amount of pleading can secure us a seat, they are booked out until mid-April. Now we are getting worried, as we want to go on the Gordon and Franklin River Cruises while we are here on the west coast as well. Turns out, we buy the last two seats for tomorrow - we hear (in the background while on the phone to the company), the exclamation as the other salesgirl in the office is just too slow to snag those last two seats for her cliemts. </div><div><br /></div><div>Before we travelled from Queensland, and while we have been here, there have been numerous adverts extolling people to visit the West Coast. It seems that locals (or perhaps the tourism gurus) feel that the trinity of Devonport, Launceston and Hobart, have garnered too much of the tourism $ and they are looking to balance the state's income somewhat. Well, I think that they might have been altogether too successful. Accommodation has been very hard to come by and tours too, we are finding are full, or close to. </div><div><br /></div><div>Queenstown is central - a great place to base yourself for visiting the west and central parts of the state. We will have a good look around here, visiting the rail and mining museums on Friday before we leave for the north.</div><div><br /></div><div>Today, as I previously said, we went to Derwent Bridge to see The Wall in the Wilderness, generally just known as The Wall. This is an amazing undertaking by initially single artist Greg Duncan and more lately with his son. From his website:<br />"<span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>On the 1st March 2005 in one of the most beautiful parts of Tasmania I set out to undertake sculpting a wall that would be 3 metres high and over 100 metres in length.</i></span></span></div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="font-size: 16px;">The material would be Huon Pine.</span><br style="box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 16px;" /><span style="font-size: 16px;">Through an often arduous at times but also immensely satisfying journey and over a decade and half later I welcome you to visit what is simply known as The Wall."</span></i></span><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">He requests no photography as a sign of respect to the moral copyright that the artist has of his work.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">The panels appear to consist of 21-22 pieces of laminated Huon that have been carved. Some parts are left unfinished, to allow the observer to better understand both the creative and carving processes. And he has achieved this beautifully. The outcome is amazing, outstanding, awe-inspiring and pure beauty. From an acknowledgement of the first peoples, to the flora and fauna of the region to the endeavours of people and industry. From the muscleature of the straining horses to the desperate tears of a bereaved woman with her lined face, the detail is exquisite. Greg Duncan now carves permanently, both in art and fine furniture. I can only imagine that the furniture through the impressive building is more of his wonderful works. The building is so fitting. A large long barn style with The Wall displayed down the centre back to back in two long constructed pieces - at times quite separate, at others, flowing seamlessly across the joins.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">We make a purchase to share with a wood carving artist friend who will be absolutely appreciative of this skill. I hope that he shares it with other wood-carvers locally as they too deserve to see this skill. </span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">The building is warm against the chill wind outside. At one end is a huge open fire. At the other, unobtrusive yet also large with a diameter of just under a metre round is a large wood fired stove. It is almost sad to walk out into the chill air again.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">The air is very nippy and Gen, in her inimitable style basely states "<i>It's good I'm wearing my padded bra!</i>"</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Stomachs are telling us that its time for lunch. There is a small cafe a kilometre back down the road called the Hungry Wombat. Its small, but clean. Gen decides on a beef and salad burger and I have a Ham, Cheese and Pineapple (yeah, yeah I know there are no pineapples here) toastie. Now, as far as toasties go, that was probably the <b>best</b> I have ever had. It was toasted to the edge, but soft inside, and filled with good quality ingredients. So both crunchy and soft. </span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">The only disappointment is that there are no wombats!</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Despite all the signs, and a little road-kill on Bruny Island, we have yet to see <b>any</b> wildlife in the wild!</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div>Its 84kms from Queenstown to Derwent Bridge, but the road is very winding with tight corners, its up and down hills and mountains. It takes a full hour and a half to do that drive. We average about 60 kph and I am sure that Gen's arms and legs are aching. There were times when she not only sounded tense, she looked it too. The concentration on her face tells me she is a good driver (asif I had any doubts).</div><div><br /></div><div>Travelling back, we turn right and make a stop at Lake St Clair. Another iconic jewel in the crown of Tasmania. The Tourism Board must be congratulated. They have done such a stellar job, that the bookings for accommodation and tour operations are at a premium at the moment. Not only have we had trouble finding accommodation, we have missed out on seats on the Queenstown Historic Rail trip. It is booked out for the next six weeks. That is a real disappointment as this was one of the two tours we had hoped to do from here. So first thing this morning, Gen places a call to the operators of the Gordon River Cruises - who traverse the Gordon and Franklin River Wilderness areas. There are only two seats left and we can hear the other salesgirl in the background exclaim when she realises that those last two tickets have been sold to us! Awe had wanted the Upper Deck as the views are meant to be better, but cannot get a seat at any time in the next month. Robyn Dowling tells me that she booked six <b>months</b> in advance to ensure she had tickets for John's birthday celebrations when they visited. Too bad that I had not known that before I left. Trouble was, I don't have the luxury of being able to plan my life that far out!</div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/lake-st-clair" target="_blank">Lake St Clair</a> is one of Tasmania's jewels. It sits high on a plateau, surrounded by smaller, less impressive lakes. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">Carved out by glaciers over millions of years, Lake St Clair is Australia's deepest freshwater lake. Located at the southern end of the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, it forms part of </span><a href="https://parks.tas.gov.au/Pages/Tasmanian-Wilderness-World-Heritage-Area-(TWWHA).aspx" style="font-family: inherit;">Tasmania's Wilderness World Heritage Area</a><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">and offers spectacular scenery. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">The environment around Lake St Clair is among Tasmania's most spectacular. Deep glacial lakes are fringed by dense forests of ancient pines, and the high mountains provide a dramatic backdrop. Despite an abundance of native wildlife in the area –</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"> we see none</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;">.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div>Lake St Clair is also one of the start/finish points of the 5-8 day <a href="https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/cradle-mountain/overland-track" target="_blank">Overland Track</a>, one of the country's greatest bushwalks. As we arrive at the Visitor Centre, there is a group of what seems to be experienced, very committed walkers assembling to begin the trek. Certainly not my cup of tea, although Gen remarks that it is a walk that perhaps one day she would like to do - you have my blessing my sweet, I do hope that you do indeed give it a go.</div><div>Like at Cradle Mountain, there are a number of walks that leave from this spot. There is a short walk to the Viewing Platform that we can do. Its late enough in the afternoon that there are few people around, and as we stop initially at the top of the viewing platform and then later on the beach below, we have the vista before us to ourselves alone. It is truly a breath-taking sight. Just to the right is the jetty fro which the ferry leaves. It stands, alone, jutting into the waters like the man-made intrusion it is.</div><div><br /></div><div>The only difference between the drive over was that it was a little easier as the rain had stopped. It seems that daily average temperatures here are not reached until between 2 and 3 in the afternoon. Its is a good day for driving as there is enough cloud cover that we are not squinting in the afternoon sun. Nearing Queenstown on our return journey, the fuel light comes on. Gen can't believe how much fuel we have gone through in the last two days, but trips up and down mountains, braking then accelerating (forget cruise control on a day like today) guzzles the gas so to speak.</div><div><br /></div><div>Our repast tonight is simple fare. We break out some crackers, the rest of our smoked salmon, a couple of cheeses and chutneys and the Old Kempton Distillery Barrel Aged Gin with a local Mandarin, Lime and Bitters soda water - very tasty.</div><div><br /></div><div>Tomorrow we are headed to Strahan for our cruise and then an early dinner before we go to see the play 'The Ship that Never Was' on the recommendation of so many people - friends and members of the Travelling Tasmania Facebook page that we have been following. Friday we will have a good look at the two museums here - Mining and Rail - before we head for the north-west coast.</div><div><br /></div><div>Gen has had lots of phone calls, and messages for her birthday today - thanks for helping to make her feel special. </div><div><br /></div><div>And on a sad note to finish today's tale, we received news of the early passing of a friend back home. Farewell Michele, you will be missed, but not forgotten. </div>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-111895671153433232022-03-29T15:23:00.000+02:002022-03-29T15:23:49.694+02:00Cradle Mountain is definitely not for the nursery<p>We had quite an unexpected good night last night. While we had not any prior knowledge, given that we got not only the last room at Cradle Mountain Highlanders, but the last room at Cradle Mountain period, I did not really hold the highest expectations for our accommodation. Perhaps I should have. For despite the quaint presentation, the cabin was very comfortable and apart from the over-priced Peppers Lodge, it was the closest to the action on the mountain. The small heater disguised as an olde-time wood burning stove, was ever so effective. Gen sweltered whilst I was toasty and ever so comfortable. We turned the heater down and even opened the door - in galloped the cool (cold) air and even I find it refreshing. The bedding was comfortable and I enjoyed nestling down in to a pillowy mattress under the warmth of woollen blankets and throws. However there was one terrifying moment when a leg cramp caught me in the wee hours of the morning. Gen worked wonders with some excellent massaging and it wasn't long before I was again enjoying warmth under the bedding.</p><p>This morning dawned bright and clear. Gen's phone was informing us that the outdoor temperature at 7:30am was 9.1 degrees, but felt like 1.9 degrees. And I certainly wasn't going to argue with that - it seriously <b><i>was </i></b>that cold! But it was a lovely, sunny day. and there was much to look forward to.</p><p>Now, I am not sure how <a href="https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/cradle-mountain" target="_blank">Cradle Mountain</a> was given its name. It certainly has nothing to to with infants. And the only nursery it resembles is that of a cloud nursery - like any mountain of size. What I can tell you is that this whole area is the result of millenia of nature at work - the building of the initial range through the violent works of volcanic actions which was then followed by the work of water - in its liquid and solid states. There is still plenty of evidence of the work of one or more major glaciers - the steep side valley sides formed in the wide U that they leave in their wake, and still more recent waters trickling or roaring, from spot to spot dependent on where you are. Streams feed into the numerous lakes on the plateaux.</p><p>We drive across the road (almost quite literally, that was how close the Highlanders was to the entry of the Park. At this early time of the morning, we are amazed at the parking - not the lack of, but the plentiness of it! Fortunately for me, my Disabled Parking access allows me to get as close as I can to places to see, and thing to do. However, as the distances are not short, Gen has decided that this morning should be a wheelchair outing rather than crutches. The Visitor Information Centre has been well designed. It is striking in weathered steel and Tasmanian timbers, yet blends sympathetically into the apline landscape. The story of the first peoples, their understanding of such a delicate environment and their guardianship of the same is told with pride and reverence. The explanations of the development is both comprehensive and yet written in such a way to be understood by people of all levels of comprehension. Quite and art, as anyone who writes will know (😉😉 )</p><p>As we had purchased out National Parks Pass at the Visitor Information Centre in Hobart, there are no further payments needed to enter into and partake of the wonders of this place. I am quite amazed that there is not additional cost to access such splendour. The information staff are very obliging and helpful in their suggestions of walks that are suitable for both the wheelchair and, for crutches. So it is decided, we will do the Dove Lake walk as far as the iconic Boat Shed - you know that one that graces almost every other poster for Tasmania - a simple, old boat shed sitting lonely by a lake. All starts well, we board the wheelchair accessible electric/diesel hybrid fuelled bus that departs almost without noise, almost as if not to interrupt the surrounding. If only it weren't huge and bright blue! Fails miserably to be unnoticed due to those two factors! It is a twenty minute ride to cover the ten kms from the Information Centre to Dove Lake. </p><p>Our drive is a true Aussie icon. He has a sense of humour as dry as a cracker, sharing hilarious stories and jokes. Like the one where he tells the passengers of the last lady who died in the lake ( a doctor) after being "bitten on the bum" and followed it with the statement, almost as an afterthought that all others died in hospital! All too soon, we are at our destination - almost too soon! As the wheelchair is cumbersome and hardly a dainty exposure from a bus, we are the last to alight. This gives the opportunity for all the other people on this bus (they are full, with yet another bus-load waiting when we left our departure point.) The best of that is that by the time we are off, all the other people have already set out on their treks - some of them took their jaunts very seriously and I guess they might be in for the full 5-7 day walk of the Overland Trek - good on them. I have far less pretentious expectations - the Boat Shed will do me just fine. We walk along the boardwalk that meanders through the delicate landscape. I must commend the National Parks Service - they insist on people staying to formed paths, and then provide the means to effortlessly do so.</p><p>And then, disappointment looms. Ahead of us are a set of broad steps. No railing. Too narrow for the wheelchair, too wide for by current step. In other words, a roadblock so to speak. Bugger. I did so want to see it with my own eyes. But, it is what it is, as is my latest mantra. I insist that Gen continue on to see it. I have the most beautiful backdrop to my wait. Looking across the still waters of Dove Lake to the majestic peak of Cradle Mountain with its sweeping expanse to the valley below and the slightly taller Barn Bluff with the clouds enveloping its tallest peaks. They lift, and settle. As though the mountain itself is breathing, in and out, in and out. It is cathartic. And beautiful. Walkers in both directions pass me, waiting in my wheelchair. Most bid a good morning, the occasional one concerned that I am alone. I am happy to wait, watching one of the true wonders of the world while waiting for Gen. In time, she returns and we re-trace our steps to the bus. Disappointed that we have a different driver (sounds unfair).</p><p>Back at the Visitor Centre, it is time to warm up a little - yay, coffee! Gen and I shared a Tasmanian Meat Pie and a delightful piece of Coconut Kakadu Plum slice - fashioned after our grandmothers' coconut jam slice, but instead of a crushed biscuit base, this has a light chocolate sponge which allows the jam and the coconut to shine. Once done, it is back to the car. The receptionist had earlier explained that there were two flat, mobility friendly walks that we could do. The Rainforest Walk left from the back door of the Ranger Station. It is well designed for those with mobility restrictions, or for prams or little feet eager to run and jump. It follows a gentle grade down the hill to a small brook that leads into the Pine River falls that topple noisily over a rock ledge into the lower stream. Framed by Pencil Pines and myrtle trees, there is so much more to see. Signs remind walkers to not only look up, but also to look down. On the forest floor there is the detrious of the seasons passing, breaking down to provide feed for the lichens and the amazingly green, lush carpet of mosses. There are the sporadic fungi - a more common brown one and then right at eye level, an orange coloured, and orange named one, quite rare for this time of the year - more commonly seen around Christmas. Large and spongy, it looks right in place, and yet, is not. The sign for the Rainforest Walk says it is a 10 -20 minute walk and I am pleased to do it in under the half-hour with my crutches.</p><p>Back at the Ranger Station, a sign directs us 80m towards the Enchanted Walk - the other one recommended . At the end of the 80m, we come to a pedestrian crossing at the road with another sign pointing a further 30m on. At that point we have reached the <b>start</b> of the Enchanted walk path. Supposedly a 900m walk, traversing a much more open landscape now. Still some of those mosses but with few trees, and instead bushes of heath and bushes of native <a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leptecophylla_juniperina" target="_blank">leptecophylla juniperina</a> - the Mountain Pinkberry - supposedly edible, but Gen looked horrified when I said that i would eat one! <br />By now, in the base of the valley, and with the wind dropped, it is becoming warm, in fact very warm. I am still wearing my new cold-weather wind-proof jacket. Its heavy on my shoulders and I am really now feeling the length of these walks. Its time to recognise that I have limitations. We abandon the walk about 600m in and return to the road. I cross the small bidge, taking photos of yet more waterfalls, so I can reach a spot where Gen can bring the car to a stop.</p><p>Its now time to set out for Queenstown. The afternoon sun is dipping and the air has a decidely nippy edge once I had rid my shoulders of that jacket! We travel along the road with little other traffic. Probably just as well. The roads continue to travel up and down mountain sides, weaving around the bases of the peaks. There is evidence of landslips, and much roadworks, like in many places across the land. Whilst the state road speed limit might be 100 (unless otherwise posted, as we are oft reminded), poor Gen spends most of the time driving at about 60-65 kph. We head for Queenstown, and having read of the Montezuma Falls on a number of the Tasmanian Facebook pages, turn off but abandon the road in after about 6kms of narrow winding twists and turns when we cannot discern how much further the falls are on what has become a gravel road. Having missed the first turnandtowrds Queenstown, and so drive toward Rosebery and towards Zeehan before turning again towards Queenstown.</p><p>I obviously had not done enough research. while we are staying in <a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queenstown,_Tasmania" target="_blank">Queenstown</a> because of the lack of accommodation at Strahan, there is much to know of here. Perhaps the name of the motel, the <a href="http://www.goldrushinn.com.au" target="_blank">Gold Rush Inn</a>, should have provided a clue, but it didn't! Queenstown is a major mining town. Once a bustling centre of alluvial gold mining, they now mine copper and have major hydro investments. There is evidence of mining infrastructure from the past years, and you cannot miss the sight of current mining operations - the mine towers over the town - like a festering sore on the landscape. Whilst the mining operations must still clearly contribute well to the company that controls it, the town shows little of that wealth. The town, although with an air of permanence, looks and feels tired. I am not sure whether the dwellings are impacted by the outputs of the mine, or the lack of personal funds by the miners to spend on their homes.</p><p>The suite we have booked is large, we have a full kitchen, dining and loungeroom, bedroom and bathroom. I think that it might have been previously the manager's residence. And, joy of joys, we have Netflix! A bit puny of me, but tonight, sitting in front of the telly, eating Thai takeaway which rivals the best we have had anywhere, we revel in the tittilations of Season 2 of Brigerton!</p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-87825943909858591372022-03-28T14:39:00.001+02:002022-03-28T14:39:49.086+02:00Huonville to Cradle Mountain - most Taswegins don't go that far for their holidays!An earlier start to the day today. Gen decided that she needed to sleep in another bed last night, so took herself off to one of the single beds in the family suite at <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=the+house+on+the+hill+b%26b&oq=&aqs=chrome.2.46i39i175i199i362l2j35i39i362l3j46i39i175i199i362j35i39i362l9.-1j0j7&client=tablet-android-samsung-nf-rev1&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8" target="_blank">The House on the Hill</a>. Last night Paul had put out the fruit and vege scraps from the day for his visiting possums - daily visitors they are. About 8:30pm last night we could hear them arrive and Gen turned her camera to night mode and caught three red-handed with the paws in the bicky-barrel so to speak!<div><br /></div><div>We had told Paul we didn't need dinner last night and when we returned, there were two bikes on the verandah - turns out the other guests tonight are a couple in their 60's who cycle just for pleasure! There is nothing pleasurable about the cycle up the <i style="font-weight: bold;">very</i> steep driveway to the B&B. Paul says that they were <b><i>very</i></b> knackered when they arrived!! We didn't see then - we think that they must have soaked in a tub and then gone straight be bed. Lord knows, if it had been me, Paul would have been digging my grave.</div><div><br /></div><div>We book (well, <i>try</i> to book accommodation for Cradle Mountain. At first all we can find with a vacancy is the Peppers Resort at a ridiculous price, I tell Gen I am happy to splurge on this night, but now, <i>that</i> room is no longer available. We find one room - literally one room left on the mountain - the Bushman's Hut at the <a href="http://www.cradlehighlander.com.au" target="_blank">Cradle Mountain Highlanders</a>. </div><div>I posted the blog and we re-arranged clothes for the next day in Cradle Mountain.<br />Breakfast for both of us this morning is just a continental one - Gen doesn't want to be driving on a full stomach. After a quick peck on the cheek and a hug, we leave Paul ready for our next leg of this adventure.</div><div> </div><div>We know that today is going to be the biggest day of driving that we will do, so I need to make sure that I am on top of my pain meds. Uhoh, that's right - we need to find a doctor pronto to have scripts re-written. We were smart enough to bring scripts with us, and even to have made arrangements to phone our surgery in Maryborough (Qld) to get more if needed. However, what none of us were aware of, is that a pharmacist cannot dispense a script written in another state. We didn't know, our doctor didn't know and more did my haematologist. But the first pharmacist we saw in Hobart did! Paul has advised that the Huon General Practice in the Main street was where he went. So after a quick trip to the local Woollies for coffee sachets (they are too expensive to buy at local shops), we call in to the doctor's practice. We explain our predicament, and I explain that I have Qld scripts AND a letter from my haematologist stating which drugs I am travelling with (experience told me to get this even though Dr Henden thought it was over-kill). The receptionists explain that the practice is fully booked for today - surprised? Not at all, this is a nation-wide issue. They tell us they will consult the doctor and see if she can squeeze us in). I can't thank Dr Tracey Rush for seeing us, and to her other patients for giving us fifteen minutes of her time. The receptionist apologises that the practice does not bulk-bill. That was the very least of my problems I assured her. Gen walks to the chemist next door to be told it will be a ten minute wait. And like ALL other pharmacies across the country - that 10 minutes stretches to 30.</div><div><br /></div><div>Later than we had hoped, but pleased that we could now safely finish our trip with me covered for all my medications, we set off. First stop was Willie Smith's Apple Shed again - to buy apples and the most delectable chocolate covered freeze-dried raspberries. OMG we wish these were growing on a tree up home! There has been rain forecast and now, the weather obliges - it is raining full on as we head back to Hobart before turning north-west on the Midland Highway for Cradle Mountain.</div><div><br /></div><div>Now on the other side of the range, the rain has cleared and we are travelling in a beautiful autumn day. We pass the turn-off to MONA (been there done that) and continue to head away from Hobart towards the Midlands Highway. The suburbs of Hobart are thinning out and before long, we are in open fields. You know - those bucolic scenes (Gen has learned a new word) where cattle and sheep and horses graze on lush grasses. Overall, it looks dry, but orbital irrigators</div><div><br /></div><div>We pass any number of tourist routes turn-offs and by the time we get to Kempton, we decide that it is such a small detour, that we will follow it for a look-see. Kempton is one of those quaint little towns filled with sandstone and timber homes of years gone by. Ooh, and there is a Distillery. I didn't know this - or did I??! We pull up as the only other vehicle is leaving. It is one of those grand old lady of the era type of buildings - actually it was an 1840's Inn, that would be very comfortable against her British cousins. Beautiful rich sandstone, crushed sandstone paths around very neatly manicured garden beds filled with Lavender and Rosemary - and such healthy looking plants. There are only four steps up to the main entrance, but they are very high steps. We espy a sign that points to Disability Access around the back. In through the courtyard we go, set up with numerous wooden picnic and outdoor settings - testament to the frequent Sunday visitors from Hobart - less than 50kms way.</div><div><br /></div><div>The <a href="http://www.oldkemptondistillery.com.au/home" target="_blank">Old Kempton Distillery</a> manufactures - sounds too processed, distils both whiskey and gin. Too early yet to sample, and having had a tipple or two previously, we purchase a little of each. Turns out food and drink are fast becoming our no 1. spending item!! The building has been set up suitable for indulgences. The Club Lounge is luxe in every sense of the word. Lots of richly stuffed leather chesterfield armchairs and lounges with small wooden inlaid tables. There are a number of small casks lining one of the walls, all labelled with the contents. We need to use the bathroom before we go and this is the first 5⭐ toilet I have ever seen.</div><div>Apart from the necessities of life, such as the <a href="https://au.whogivesacrap.org" target="_blank">Who Gives A Crap toilet paper</a>, there is a beautiful wing armchair, again leather puffed full with stuffing. And a baby chage station complete with wipes and lotions and soft towels. A stunning period light hangs gracefully from the highlight ceiling. There is softly fragranced hand-lotion next to the soap for all to use. All in a room big enough to contain a wheelchair and two prams at the same time! Yep, 5⭐ all the way!</div><div><br /></div><div>We are now conscious that the day is passing and we need to seriously get on the road. </div><div>It is the kind of day that calls for us to turn off the car air-conditioning and wind down the windows. Its the kind of day perfect for a sports car with the top down to allow the wind to caress your hair and the sun to kiss your cheeks. There are three routes that we can take to travel to Cradle Mountain and decide to follow the southern-most road as it will take us through the Lakes District en-route to today's destination. Moving away from urbanlandscapes, we have entered the bucolic scenes (Gen learned a new word) where the cattle and the sheep and the horses and the goats eat their fill from lush pastures. And yet the land is much drier that I thought it would be. Farmlands are serviced by both travelling and pivot irrigators, shooting jets of water gently into the air and carried on the breeze. The smells of the countryside are changing - the smell of freshly cut grasses and grains, of wildflowers in bloom and of rich manure. Ahh - got to love <i>that</i> smell! And yet, it is still preferable to air-con.</div><div><br /></div><div>Travelling along Highway 5 we head towards Deloraine.</div><div>The scenery changes with every turn of a corner, every climb up and over a hill. Before too long, we leave lush pastures for state forests, conservation areas and national parks. The trees thicken then thin again and finally there are none - just scruffy shrubs then miniature ferns and bright green carpets of moss amid lichen covered rocks. We know we are in alpine areas (apart from the signs) when we again see the orange roadside markers - orange so that you still stay on the road during snow and sleet. And yet, the lakes so named, are all dry. Imagine Lake George north of Canberra and you will understand the landscape. I feel a little cheated.</div><div><br /></div><div>Then in the middle of nowhere, amoungst a stand of trees, we come upon the <a href="https://novisiblemeans.com/steppes-homestead/" target="_blank">Steppes Sculptures</a>. The <span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #382c14; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">14 bronze sculptures on a circle of large stones in the middle of a forest created by Stephen Walker with each piece representing something from the area, either natural or of historical significance. Almost bizarre. Out in the middle of nowhere, unexpected. It leads to the question . . . if a tree in the forest falls and no-one sees it, does it crash. If a monument is set in such an unexpected place, how many can experience it? </span></span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">Gen thinks that the twelve stones in a clearing in a forext, perfectly arranged in a circle with a large flat stone in the centre would be perfect for some sacrificial purpose (those are Gen's words - as though I need to tell you that!) </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">They are quite stunning and lies beside a path leading to the original homestead of the Wilson family. A little more invigorated and much more animated, we push westwards. </span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #382c14;"><span style="background-color: white; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">Passing through places with names like Nowhere Else and Promised Land and peckish now, we pull in to the Miena Roadhouse and Motel - a fairly new looking building - obviously to cater for the trout fishers at the nearby dam. And as we are there, so are two members of the Gideon Society - placing bibles in the rooms, and unsuccessfully trying to give one in person to the manager - no luck. Gen had just said that they looked like "bible salesmen' - turns out she was right! She must be a better judge of person than me!! lol.</span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">Finally we top a hill and see water - lakes and lakes of water. Another lookout, another photo opportunity. We come across the Hydro-electric Power and Metallurgical Company built a small dam across the Shannon River at the southern outlet of the Great Lakes in 1914. It has been enlarged twice since and it now holds back 3,000 million cubic litres of water and 48% of Tasmania's total energy storage capacity. Think of Sydney Harbour set high in the mountains and you can begin to visualise what we are looking at. Its massive! </span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">All around the shores of the lakes there are any number of fishing hamlets - simple structures, many of them converted tin sheds. At first there are three or four, then we turn another corner and see perhaps fifty dwellings. Many of them appear deserted, but there are still a number in use today - evidenced by utes pulling boats on trailers or by wisps of smoke drifting on the wind from a log-burning stove.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">The trip is a slow one, being dictated by the terrain we are crossing. Up and down hill, weaving along the bottom of valleys adjacent to watercourses. we are starting to feel a little anxious - despite the few small hamlets and villages, we have not passed a petrol station as the tank falls under 1/4 full.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">None to soon, we reach <a href="https://tasmania.com/points-of-interest/deloraine/" target="_blank">Deloraine</a>, a town classified by the National Trust for its historic buildings. We have been munching on apples, dried apples, meringues (mint) and chocolate covered raspberries, but are craving something a little more substantial. We park across the road from some cafes, but at 3pm we are too late for lunch and too early for dinner. The Cycles at Empire (cafe by day, restaurant by night) has one ham and cheese foccacia left for toasting, so that's what we share. Actually it was delicious, ham off the bone, seeded mustard, quality cheese, tomato and salad greens. Washed down with a milkshake, it filled a hole! Leaving Deloraine we see the Shell Service Station coming up. Gen pulls in, and an attendant springs into action. He comes around the back of the car to Gen's window, startling her somewhat. He starts to ask what she wants and I just say fill it please. Gen has never experienced full driveway service before and doesn't know what to do. I tell her just get out and follow </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">him in to pay. She is chuffed! Yep, we are way out of the city in every sense and service is service. Unfortunately we don't have time to explore any more as we need to check in my 6pm. Google Maps has us arriving at 5:57pm, so we must push forward. We might have time to have a bit of a wander en-route to Queenstown late tomorrow.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">The last stretch of the trip is slow. Hairpin turns abound, and the slope is increasing. Cradle Mountain looks more and more spectacular the closer that you get to it. There are towering cliffs and crevices where plant life clings precariously. The sun is slipping behind the mountains and the areas of shade are getting cooler. Yes, we are back in the mountains. The windows still down, the air becomes dank - damp and mossy and there are patches of water on the road. Its about now we decide that it is too cool and we somewhat reluctantly wind up the windows. Unlike yesterday where our progress was commented on by road signs, all of a sudden we find we are upon the driveway into the Cradle Mountains Highlanders.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">Gen checks us in and gets directions to our cabin - The Bushmans Hut.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">Its quaint. Think of those American cabins in the woods and you have it. Up four steps onto a verahdah, we open the door to find almost EVERYTHING constructed of timer. Beds are rustic with a rail ladder to a bunk over a double bed. There is a hand hewn table, a timber stool and timber shelves. Thankfully the bathroom has a working standard issue toilet and shower! AND there is a gas heater that is so efficient that after 20 minutes, we need to open the door to allow frosty fresh mountain air to balance the enveloping warmth. A simple dinner of crackers with cheese, a variety of relishes, smoked salmon and a bottle of cider!</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">Tomorrow we are off to the Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre for options for walks - we are pretty sure that Dove Lake is doable in part, and hopefully one or another of the smaller walks. Given the lack of accommodation, we are heading to Queenstown late tomorrow. We are staying at least 3 days and will do some tours from there.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; color: #382c14; font-family: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: common-ligatures;">The night air is chilling and both of us are tired after a long day of travel. We have left a few pieces of apple on the verandah and are keeping an ear out for creatures of the night. Time for bed. The eyes and my back are telling me so. Gute Nacht as some of our friends would say. </span></div>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-80333208479236566692022-03-27T12:29:00.000+02:002022-03-27T12:29:40.081+02:00The Huon - a place to exercise the nasal passages (and your feet!)<div>Its been a long time since we slept in a double bed, and even longer since we have shared one! Gen didn't sleep particularly well, afraid that her rolling would wake me. I need to find some way to convince her that I sleep the sleep of the 'assisted' and that even though I might have asked her if she was ok, I really don't wake fully! I do remember waking at some point in the night to turn off the electric blanket that I had put on before I retired last night.</div><div> </div>We woke to an amazing day. <div>Gen tells me that the forecast is for 26 degrees - yep, you read that right! The morning is crisp, but not cold. Southern Tasmania has it's own version of the long-white-cloud (sorry, not sorry, NZ). Today, it sits above the valley below, about on a par with <a href="http://house-on-the-hill-bed-and-breakfast.tasmanianhotels.com/en/" target="_blank">The House on The Hill B&B.</a> Above us only sky (wow, I think I could make a killing with that lyric 😉) and certainly no hell below. The cloud tapers to a mist towards Mt Wellington, and to the south. There is already some heat on the air, so the morning breeze is more balmy than we have experienced since arriving in Tasmania.</div><div><br /></div><div>We come into the shared dinind/sitting room to find the other couple staying here (from Melbourne) already eating breakfast. Paul has laid the large table for us, and a smaller table for them. They are not very chatty, so I resort to asking lots of open questions. Amazing how quickly they finished and left! Gen has ordered Bacon and Eggs and I am having a continental breakfast. A selection of three cereals awaits me, plus a jug of milk, a bowl of yoghurt and two bowls of fruit - strawberries and grapes, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries. Followed by sourdough bread toasted and raspberry and apricot jams. Perfect, just perfect.</div><div><br /></div><div>Hunger sated, checking the washing Gen did and hung out last night, to find it about 80% dry (so we left it), we headed back down the hill to Huonville town. We are hoping to visit<a href="http://www.williesmiths.com.au" target="_blank"> Willie Smiths Apple Shed</a>. Everything we have read of and been told about this establishment tells us that it is one of those iconic must-sees. Its a couple of minutes north of town - we had passed it coming in late yesterday, so we know just where to go. Its Sunday morning and apart from those hurrying to Church, there is little traffic. However, there is already a tour bus pulled in when we get there - must be one of the early departures from Hobart. The Cellar Door does not open until noon, about three hours from now. If they had been open, we certainly would have been up for a cider tasting, but with breakfast just passed us, we opted for a slice of Apple Pie - OMG these need to be seen to be believed. The apples are sliced not chopped and I reckon I count 14 or 15 layers of apple. Served warm with plain ice-cream and topped with two slices of dried apple, this is the stuff that memories are made of. Just like Nanny and Mum used to make. You know this aroma, it is a warm kitchen, love in the hands and fruit freshly peeled encased in a hearty pastry with just THE right amount of bite - not soggy, not dry. There are obviously a number of differing apples used - some are firm with a slight crunch still, whiles others are soft and moist. It definitely lives up to its reputation! And with the cellar door not open for hours, we had to settle with a shared glass of Organic Cider - there were four to choose from available at the cafe counter and this one was the recommendation of the lass serving us.</div><div><br /></div><div>We sit overlooking the display distillation room, but have too much to see to laze the morning here. Now bloated, we head the car south. Back through town to the turnoff at Geeveston, 22 kms away. We are headed to the Tahune Adventures base where I want to do the <a href="https://tahuneadventures.com.au/adventures/airwalk/" target="_blank">Tahune Airwalk</a>. This is a walk on a cabled, cantilevered corridor, complete with stopping platforms and a cantilevered lookout above the Huon River, overlooking formerly logged old growth forests that have been replanted. </div><div><br /></div><div>The day is so nice, that we turn off the air-conditioner and wind the windows down. Straight away, your senses are heightened, odours are for the smelling and sights are brighter. Passing through small apple towns, there are two smells we encounter - the decay of road-kill, all too frequent, and the wood-smoke of kitchen or sitting room fires in country farms. Smells are so integral to our memories.</div><div><br /></div><div> As you snake your way down what was probably original logging tracks that have now been sealed, you pas the occasional sign that says - Planted Area following clear-felling. The oldest section we pass is 1961, so that is 60 and a bit years, and still the forest has not recovered fully. We were told on the boat two days ago, that is takes about 120 years for a tree to reach mature height. During our 29 km drive into Tahune (from Geeveston), we pass lots of signs 'Are we There Yet' 'Halfway' 'Not much further' 'Nearly there' and 'Yaaay. You made it'! Obviously, plenty of people in the past have commented on the long drive in. It might only be 29 kms, but up and down hill, round and round the mountain range, it certainly feels longer and takes about an hour! Still, its not all bad. We cleanse our nostrils in the clean eucalypt laden air, we marvel at the sight of MASSIVE trees, both standing and felled, at the size of the ferns from delicate small varieties that hug the roadside, probably competing with traffic to large tree ferns with fronds that span tens of metres. There are a couple of babbling creeks chattering away as their waters tumble rock and fallen timber.</div><div><br /></div><div>Finally we arrive at the Yaaay sign. Disabled Parking is just across from the entry booth. There is a sign that says that people with disabilities can be catered for and to ask the staff, and without any further prompting, that is exactly what Gen does. Turns out that there are 100 steps up a graded walkway to get to the start of the Airwalk. 14 I can do (at home), 20 I think I could manage once a while, but 100, I have no hope. So, the disability option is to drive the first part of the walk (you should see the smouldering looks we get from walkers as we drive over the bridge) to the start point of the Airwalk. Once there, Gen is up a gum tree - she had not realised that the Airwalk was so high above the ground, but I am determined, and the tickets bought.</div><div><br /></div><div>We step off solid ground onto what many would feel was an engineering feat. It is an<span style="font-family: inherit;"> open mesh walkway that would be just wide enough for a wheelchair if needed. <span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;">The Tahune AirWalk is an elevated walkway 30 metres above the forest floor, with the final cantilever section sitting at a height of 50 metres above the Huon River, with spectacular views to the confluence of the Huon and Picton Rivers and beyond to the peaks of the World Heritage Area. It is 619m in length (yay me - I walked the entire length) and at its highest point is 50m above the ground - 150 feet or about 30 of me on top of each other. When you put it like that, you can start to appreciate just how high it is. We walk passed a number of trees that tower above us on the walk - easily 100m high, perhaps even higher. They tower so far above us that we cannot get the entire tree from floor to tip in one shot on any of the devices we are carrying. Nature is indeed wonderous.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;">The Leatherwoods are in bloom and I yearn for honey, Huon Pines and lots of other native species fill in the sight line. I've abandoned my jacket and am now down to a light summer top. Except for the lack of humidity, I could have been in my home-state. Once we return to the office to check in (they recorded our rego number in case we did not return) it was time for some lunch and the obligatory <a href="http://www.valhallaicecream.com.au" target="_blank">Valhalla ice-cream</a> - Tasmania's own. Chef freshly-cooked my hamburger was delicious and Gen enjoyed her Chicken Salad. Gen chose a Choc-Mint ice cream in a cone - it tasted of fresh mint and was nothing like those sickly sweet ones we get back home. My Salted Caramel crunch was decadently rich, and yet not overly sweet. Can someone check if we an get Valhalla Ice Cream in Queensland please.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;">By now it is pushing 3 o'clock. We have run into a Brisbane couple we have seen a few times over the last couple of days. Turns out they are returning to spend a few days with friends just outside Hobart tonight - so we won't encounter them again. We leave Tarhune and turn yet further south - pushing down the coastline for another 20 odd kilometres to Dover. Its Sunday, the roads are quiet. We pass sleepy little towns with every house built to make the best of their vantage-points over the<a href="https://www.ourtasmania.com.au/hobart/region-channel.html" target="_blank"> D'Entrecasteaux Channel</a>. Who can blame them. While there is some new development, it appears more to cater to seasonal workers - fruit-pickers and those working in the Salmon industry. Just north of Dover at Port Huon is a wharf that is dwarfed by two HUGE trawlers. These belong to the Tassel enterprise. We can see some of the pens that they grow some of their salmon in, but I suspect that these trawlers head into the deeper, much colder waters further south beyond the Tasman Sea. I remember a tussel between Tassel and Huon Salmon a couple of years ago with one accusing the other (can't remember which one) of overstocking their salmon pens and crowding the bay.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;">On our way back to our accommodation we stop off in Geeveston to have a look at the <a href="https://www.huonvalley.tas.gov.au/geevestons-arve-big-tree-to-live-on-in-ar/" target="_blank">Arve Big Tree</a>, a fallen swamp gum, thought to be one of Australia's tallest trees that started growing about 500 years ago. It survived the devastating bushfires of 1967 but was sadly lost in the Riveraux Road bushfire of 2019. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;">We hop and jump our way back t Huonville, stopping at each roadside stall, wanting to buy some apples. We were hoping to buy a variety and no more than 1kg as we have limited capacity to keep things cold. Sadly, the smallest we can find are 3kg bags of single varieties. We'll try one of the fruit-shops as we leave tomorrow morning for a selection.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;">Tomorrow we head slightly east to travel the towns in the other side of the Channel - Cygnet (where one of Gen's workmates was born) and Verona Sands before we head into the midlands, perhaps to Cradle Mountain or to Strahan on the west coast - wherever we can get accommodation. We are now well into our second week, and already it feels like we are running out of time.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #58595b; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="color: #58595b;">Time to hit the pillow - we are hoping for an earlier start in the morning - and look, its only 8:30pm!</span></div>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-88511283793265663372022-03-26T11:39:00.001+01:002022-03-26T11:39:31.728+01:00Bruny - an island of two parts<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 17px;">And that I did. (Slept well last night for those of you you have not read yesterday's lot).</span><br /><br /></span><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Although we all refer to Bruny Island, this land, off the south-east coast of Tasmania, is two islands connected by a long, narrow isthmus. We have spent the last day and a half on South Bruny and this morning are travelling up to North Bruny Island. We only have this one day, as we have booked accommodation for the next two nights at the <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=House+on+the+Hill&client=tablet-android-samsung-nf-rev1&sxsrf=APq-WBsO61dVw9hFtrNDv26aU3sbwhyVaQ%3A1648203144523&ei=iJU9YrnCH-KOseMP78CYgAg&oq=House+on+the+Hill&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyCAguEIAEENQCMgUIABCABDIKCAAQgAQQhwIQFDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEOgcIABBHELADSgQIQRgAUIghWIghYLksaAFwAXgAgAG_B4gB6gmSAQcyLTEuNi0xmAEAoAECoAEByAEIwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#trex=m_t:lcl_akp,rc_f:rln,rc_ludocids:16125333299166617527,ru_gwp:0%252C7,ru_lqi:ChFIb3VzZSBvbiB0aGUgSGlsbEjsiOO5nKqAgAhaIxAAEAEQAhADGAAYARgCGAMiEWhvdXNlIG9uIHRoZSBoaWxskgEdaG9saWRheV9hY2NvbW1vZGF0aW9uX3NlcnZpY2WaASRDaGREU1VoTk1HOW5TMFZKUTBGblNVTlZkMUJ5VFhKQlJSQUKqARkQASoVIhFob3VzZSBvbiB0aGUgaGlsbCgA,trex_id:dNcdEb" target="_blank">House on the Hill</a>, a B&B in Huonville.</span><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><span style="font-size: 17px;">The day has dawned nice and clear. Except for the occasional passing vehicle, we sit with the door open, quietly contemplating our lot. There is no wind and the waves just gently kiss the beach, a sound we almost need to strain to hear. It is definitely autumn. The morning light is gentle, almost weak, muting the colours of our surrounds. This morning, the water is the colour of my new jumper - a baby blue. There is a line of rocks that must be the edge of an underwater ledge. The waves roll gently over the line, in a line, perfectly horizontal to the narrow beach. Outside the protection of this little bay, the water is a deeper hue of blue and from the deck of our villa it almost looks navy. And, in the distance, the landmasses around us are softened by the early morning mist.</span>
<br /><br /><span style="font-size: 17px;">We take our time over break-fast. Croissant and roll, a shared banana, the last of our cheese and a couple of 'packet' lattes and we are ready to hit the road.</span><br /><!--/data/user/0/com.samsung.android.app.notes/files/clipdata/clipdata_bodytext_220326_152436_236.sdocx--></span><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">There is no one at the pub at this time of the day, so we leave the room key in the drop-box and head off. We make one stop at the Bread 'Fridge' and opening the door, are greeted by warm, yeasty smells. The magic baker has been hard at work and replenished the supplies, depleted by yesterday afternoon. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Our final visit on South Bruny is to the Bruny Island Chocolate Company. We are told that the owner and manufacturer is a pastry cook by profession and fell in to fudge making about 10 years ago when he realised there was a market gap. There are the usual assortment of chocolates, catering to the family and mass markets, but they also have some nice speciality ranges including a boxed selection of six, described as "<i>More than a heavenly chocolate indulgence, our delicious premium quality handmade fudge with a rich creamy texture and distinctive, mouthwatering flavour to satisfy the most discerning of connoisseurs".</i> Add to the mixed box, i have a Hounds Tooth Tasmanian Whisky Fudge, two chocolate sauces - one Brandy and Cointreau and the other Chocolate Mint, a bag of chocolate caramels and chocolate fruit and nut mix fill our bags<i>.</i></span></div></div></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />Next stop is The Neck - at the lookout high atop the only hillock on the isthmus that connects south to north Bruny. The tide is out and I can see Sandpipers busily digging in the exposed sandflats for tasty morsels to eat. There is the odd family with kids digging in the sand, hoping to find some sort of little treasure, and the occasional tourist couple, hand-in-hand without a care in the world, immersed in their togetherness, with not a single other soul in sight along the beach.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">The steps up to <a href="https://www.alltrails.com/trail/australia/tasmania/the-neck-and-truganini-lookout" target="_blank">The Neck</a> lookout are insurmountable - at least for me. 279 steps are just too many more than the 14 steps at home! Gen graciuosly (although probably silently cursing) offers to climb for the photos. They are truly stunning. You look north and south, and across the bays devoid of almost all water - you can even see <span style="color: #3c4043;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 14px;">Kunanyi in the distance.</span></span> What a sight. Gen tells me that there are lots of small burrows all up the side of the hill - home to Fairy Penguins no doubt.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">All too soon, we are back on North Bruny, with a list of places to visit before we leave. First call is at the <a href="http://www.thehoney-pot.com" target="_blank">Bruny Island Honey </a>where they have a huge swarm of bees busy in a perspex covered box, which is behind closed doors. We sample a number of their varieties and purchased a small pot of creamed honey 'Bruny Island Prickly Box' honey and some Manuka Honey lip balm. I had used a sampler to test it on my lips and there was no immediate bad reaction, so finger's crossed they might help relieve them. The winds are not chaffed lips friendly!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Honey done, we move on to the <a href="http://www.brunyislandcheese.com.au" target="_blank">Bruny Island Cheese Company</a>. Fresh cows milk cheeses are made on the island from O.D.O. (one day old) cheese to a range of soft rind, washed rind and cheddar styles cheeses. Gen really only likes the two milder cheddar styles, but I am in my element. Not a blue in sight, but the washed and soft rind cheeses are very edible, lacking that acrid bite that often comes with a young, immature cheese. It's close enough to lunch time to sit and savour the bites here. Also on offer are ciders and beers with some other local wines and sparkling drinks, but for the time being, we just sit with apple juice (cos you can't be in Tasmania and not have the Apple Juice!) and coffees. A selection of three cheeses - O.D.O., Tom and Saint - refer to their website linked above for a description, proscuito, baguette, Ligurian olives and pickled beetroot and gherkins. Very tasty. As neither of us are oyster fans, we skip the Oyster Shack and instead head to the Bruny Island House of Whisky - much more my tipple of choice!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">The <a href="http://www.tasmanianhouseofwhicky.com.au" target="_blank">Bruny Island House of Whisky</a> sits high on a hill just 1 km from the Ferry to Kettering (Tasmanian Mainland). They boast the largest selection of Tasmanian Whisky's for sampling. Given that I haven't gone looking for other tasting rooms, I am happy to take them at their word! You can choose a 'flight' of four whiskies from one of four shelves all differing in price - from $60 per person up to the Champions (top) shelf at $295 pp. This is after all, 4 nips of whisky. We splurge and choose level 2 @ $75pp and opt to just share the tasting. We had one nip of 1. Nant - Tasmanian Highlands Single Malt, Bourbon Cask, 2. Trappers Hut Limited edition Tasmania Single Malt Whisky, 3. Lark Malt Whisky Small Cask Renaissance and 4. Callington Mill Tasmanian Single Malt Tango. I think we both the last one best. And of course, we can't go passed without trying their Gin. I had a Seclusion Gin with Soda and Gen, not liking gin, had a non-alcoholic Raspberry and Chilli Sparkling Ginger Beer - after all, she is driving lol. At just over $90, we have contributed very generously to the local economy here thank you!</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">The day is slipping by and we are no headed or the Huon Valley. The crazy thing is that while everything is so close (as the crow flies) in Tasmania, the travelling times are longer than anticipated due to the narrow, winding roads. So we are pleasantly surprised to find that the trip to Huonville is all on multi-lane highways - even if it is steep in places. Disappointingly, there is no where to pull over as the first views along the floor of the Huon Valley come into view. It is a stunning sight - with a long, fertile valley nestled at the base of ancient hills on either side. we will just have to come back and hope there is a lookout somewhere. Through Huonville we drive - its a slightly larger town and we see some take-away establishments (although none of the chains - yay!). Lining the road into the town are apple orchards - lots of them. And we pass the Willie Smith Apple Shed that we have heard so much of. We plan to return here tomorrow to sample some of the 70+ varieties of apples that they are supposed to grow.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">We follow Google maps to find <a href="https://www.agoda.com/house-on-the-hill-bed-and-breakfast/hotel/huon-valley-au.html?" target="_blank">The House on The Hill B&B</a> that we are booked in to for the next 2 days. Turns out we don't need to find that lookout after all - this is set high on the Hill overlooking Huonville and we can look up and down that fertile valley. I'll make sure that Gen includes some pics on Facebook. Owner Paul greets us and shows us into a lovely double room, with a huge bathroom and access to a large dining and lounge area and verandah off that. Paul explains that the original house was built in the early 1980's and added on to in the late 1990s. It is very well set-up for a B&B.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">There is one other couple here at the same time - they arrive back from their outing about 30 minutes before Dinner. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Paul has a limited menu and we have both chosen Seafood Bisque - tomatoes, herbs, cream, potatoes and seafood to be followed by 'The Best Tasmanian" Cheese platter and port for two! OMG I can hardly swallow, I am so full! Paul's Bisque was home-made with home-grown potatoes and lots of Tasmanian seafood. Our plates were filled to the brim with Seafood - literally. There were mussels, prawns, calamari rings, scallops and fresh and smoked fish. He was explaining that he makes his fish broth on the shells and heads of the prawns. No wonder it tastes so rounded and complete! I couldn't finish my serve - he jokes that he only gave us a small bowl - Maaate, I'd love to see a big bowl!!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">We finished the evening with Paul, asking him to share the ENORMOUS cheese plate - plated with about 6 cheeses, from blue, to soft crumbly cheddar to truffled to camembert etc. There were a variety of pastes, olives, gherkins (chillied), chorizo, salami and bread and crackers - we would have done better to have just had this platter! Served with a glass of Penfolds Club Port that matched the rich pickings beautifully.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">We sit, we talk. We drink coffee and finish the night on caramels and truffles that we purchased this morning. All in all, a lovely way to spend the evening. Paul had asked what time we wanted breakfast in the morning. Origianlly we said 8am, but have changed that to 9 am - to make sure our digestive systems are ready for the next generous servings! Pays to stay in local small hotels, B&Bs etc and not in the big multi-nationals. The people you meet are so passionate about what they do and the area that they are in. </span></div><div>Nitey nite, my head is telling me I need to go to bed 😉😉 </div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com1Huonville TAS 7109, Australia-43.0300264 147.0526803-71.340260236178835 111.89643029999999 -14.719792563821152 -177.79106969999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-63342091299157838412022-03-25T11:41:00.002+01:002022-04-15T00:35:45.996+02:00When luxury is not is cracked up to be<p>Happy birthday for me. The last two years has certainly taught me to appreciate every day I get on this side of the ground.</p><p>Our villa (no longer calling this one a cabin!) is luxe all the way.<br />The bed is high with a mattress that is about 50cm high. I have to do a little hop to get up on it! Gen had put the electric blanket on for me we first got in last night, so despite the wind that we can hear swirling gently around outside, we are toasty warm.</p><p>Turns out that we are probably a little too warm. We got into bed, and within minutes I am asleep. Gen too slept well initially, but woke at 4:30am, and was unable to get back to sleep. She thought it might have been because of my snoring! Moi? Surely not! We know that this is a rare occcurrence, but whatever, she couldn't get back to sleep. Just inside the door to the Villa is a long bench with a cushion running its length. I told Gen that I would happily sleep there, but she wouldn't hear of it. Instead, this was where she took herself, a couple of pillows and the most exquisite cable-knitted blanket (it is too large to call a throw). Looking into the black expanse of the night outside, she says that she could see darker splotches, so pointing her phone she captured pictures of 5 Pademelons within touching distance of the villa! She sleeps for another 3-4 hours here. I guess we are just not used to luxury!</p><p>This morning we are off back over to Adventure Bay to take one of the <a href="http://www.brunycruises.com.au" target="_blank">Pennicott Widerness Cruises</a> - a 3 hour sojourn into the waters off the Island. The jetty is right at one end of the main road network. We drive through sleepy little hamlets full of little tin and timber shanties and 1950/60s beach holiday houses that are slowly being crowded out by the brash newcomers with their endless sheets of glass and timber. Sadly we count 7 animals newly deceased as roadkill. We have been warned by all the locals of the dangers of driving between dusk and dawn and on our way home from the supermarket yesterday afternoon we carefully watched three pademelons and a wallaby hesitate and then jump back into the bush. </p><p>Even now, well into autumn, there are enough people booked for this cruise that two boats are taken out. Our deckhands are Dean and Ben. They are confident and very able, checking on everyone, all belted in, caped up and had their 2 ginger tablets - swallow with water, not chew they are trying to instruct an Indian family. Charades works all over the world! We begin our journey with a bit of drama - the Indian older man (grandpa) slipped between the jetty and the boat - lightning fast reflexes saw Dean and Ben grab him, but they were obviously shaken and almost had him undressed to make sure he was not injured. After a few minutes of checks, they again checked everyone else and then we drew slowly away from the jetty - as though letting the apron strings slowly out. The the full force of the three massive engines were unleashed and nose up, we sped out into the Bay. The two boats weave in and out up and over each others wakes and its not too long before the dolphins arrive to play in the waters. Obviously the cruise operators and these wild animals are well-known to each other. The engines are cut and passengers race for the optimum spots to capture photos and videos. Dean explains that with smartphones, the best way to capture footage is with video and then take screenshots for particular photos you want. Most of us are clueless, but he came to the rescue explaining how to do this for Android and iPhones! Ah, to be young again and able to keep up with the constant changes in technology!</p><p>Finally with the fill of dolphins, we resume our seats and buckle up again. Ben and Dean are quite the team, very relaxed, treading the boards constantly chatting to the passengers, sharing stories and groan-worthy dad jokes! They explain that we will be hugging the coast on the trip out, and will journey back in the open waters. Dean in particular is a wealth of knowledge and stories. A lifetime local, it is very obvious that he is passionate about this environment and enjoys sharing it with others. He explains that here at the northern end of Adventure Bay we are travelling passed Jurassic period basalts that are 'breathing' rocks reflecting the motion of the ocean. Over the millenia since they were thrust up through the earth, the rocks have been continuously pounded by the relentless sea, slowly but ever so indeterminably worn away. Caves are worn into the occasional softer striations- initially just small openings growing eventually into larger, deeper or taller openings. </p><p>We move in closer, watching the swell work its magic, rolling with that swell, marvelling at the colours in the lichens, at the size of the Bull Kelp (Kombu) that hangs tight at the tide line, floating above, then dashing under the water. There are a myriad of small crustaceans (limpets and barnacles) that cling on the the rock for dear life. Dean relates stories of finding abalone in the same area. He warned us against over-indulging in any one sitting as they have a laxette-like side effect! Moving further south, Dean manoeuvres the boat into some of the cave openings, we traverse the Tasmanian equivalent of the Bay of Islands. The basalt cliffs tower 294m above us. You need to lean out from the shelter of the boat canopy to even see the top of them. Wind and water have combined to form tall, symmetrical columns that sit tightly beside each other locked in an eternal battle with the elements.</p><p>When a cave continues to be eroded, you end up with an arch and even loner erosion causes the arch to fall, leaving two columns. We pass through one spectacular set of rock columns known as the Guardians of the Sea - with a regal aura. The column further out wears a 'crown' and is called the King Column and his mate, the Queen Column is slightly smaller and appears the have long locks of hair. Its amazing what a story can add to your imagination! It is near here that Dean pulls nose in close to the landmass and it doesn't take long for us to realise that he is showing us a blowhole. The incoming tide increases the force of the blowhole, spraying us all with a fine mist. Its about now, that I can start to sense the timing of this swell. Without my crutches, I have decided not to try to stand up during this cruise, and so while others are rushing around trying to get the prized shot with water spray and mist, I am sitting quietly, 'hearing' the sound of the blowhole. There is a deep thump just before the water jets into the air, and then a tickling as the water falls back to its bed. Quite cathartic. Dean explains that this is not technically a true blowhole as there is no upper opening. Rather, it is an underwater cave - the water is pushed into the cave, hits the rear wall and then is shot back out the cave entrance. Call it what you will, describe it as you must, it is still a spectacular sight.</p><p>We cruise (well, motor) further south - checking out colonies of gannets and comorents, drying their wings on rocky outcrops off the shore. Their guano is that acidic that nothing can grow where they rest, and the rock is eventually bleached to a stark white painted look. At last we are nearing the extreme end of today's journey and we can smell the next wildlife long before we can see them. While Australian Fur Seals are beautiful to look at, they positively stink - especially when they are in a colony. And this colony are all males - and we all know what a bunch of teen and young adult boys are like when it comes to cleanliness and housekeeping! Well, these are no different. The females live further north and the boys live in this area for 9 months of the year, practising gluttony, pride and finally lust. Its a chest-beating thing. The alpha male gets the pick of the girlfriends. The more girlfriends, the greater the progeny and the survival of his genetic line. We spent the better part of 20 minutes just watching (and smelling) them. They are amazingly beautiful creatures.</p><p>Finally, the boat is turned north and we head back to the safe anchorage of Adventure Bay. We went as far south as Tasman Island, Tasman Head and The Friars - all of which sit in the souther tip of the Tasman Sea and close to the Southern Ocean. The trip back is cold and windy, and bumpy. We are travelling off-shore, riding the ridges and troughs for a 'smoother' ride - that is, not rising across them. The journey back is just short of an hour and in this time I gradually add:<br />* doing up my new multi-layered weather jacket<br />* my face mask (to protect my lips as much as I can)<br />* my beanie<br />* my gloves; and finally<br />* zipping my coat up OVER all the rest and my head. I was freezing. Literally!</p><p>But what an exhilarating way to spend 3 hours and a decent chunk of money. Well worth it and I would recommend it to anyone. You can watch a video of this trip <a href="<iframe title="vimeo-player" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/125360949?h=f0299867d4" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>" target="_blank">here</a>.</p><p>So, half the day is gone. It is now 2pm and we only have today to explore the rest of the South Bruny Island. We haven't eaten since our croissant/roll this morning, so we set out to visit the <a href="http://www.brunyislandwine.com" target="_blank">Bruny Island Premium wines, Cider and Restaurant</a>. Luckily we arrive at 2:<span style="font-family: inherit;">25pm as lunch is only served until 2:30pm, so we quickly find a table and choose from the menu. Gen selects the <span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Sliders and ciders - </span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px;">mushroom and haloumi, lamb rosemary, salmon avocado with three ciders to taste - Ginger and Apple, Blapple (Blackberry and Apple) and Cherry and Apple - her fave. I buy a bottle of 2019 unwooded Chardonnay and Pork Rillettes with warmed bread to eat with it. Both were delicious, but the star was <span style="font-family: inherit;">the </span></span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 16px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Bruny Honey & cinnamon crème bruleè - </span></span><span style="font-size: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">forest fruits, Scottish shortbread</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 16px;"> - now THAT was delicious!! Having finished our repast, and purchased some providores from their selection of ciders, jams, chutneys and smoked salmon (to have with our 'fridge' bread), we thought we would drive down and have a look at the Bruny Island Lighthouse.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">In</span> this hire car we are not allowed to drive on unsealed roads, so having set out to explore, we soon hit a gravel road and make the sad decision not to proceed. The other attratcion of interest was <a href="http://www.inalanaturetours.com.au" target="_blank">Inala - the Jurassic Garden</a>. It was only a few days ago that Justine, who is house-sitting and cat-caring for us, sent us a link to this site. It was a very interesting collection of shells, fossils and bones all beautifully labelled and displayed. Outside was a very substantial garden that primarily focusses on jurassic and later period plants. There is also a very extensive collection of native and non-native plants, all grouped by family. The path meanders down the planted hill and by the time we reach the bottom, it is clear that the operators are reading to close for the day. No time to amble back up the path, so we just took shortcuts through the grassed surrounds. </p><p>All in all, another very busy and satisfying day as we arrive back at the Hotel Bruny Lodge and our villa. We did not think to pull the curtains as we left, so the room is very warm as the west-facing glass has heated the room all afternoon! So with the door left open, the room is cooled and the first Pademelon of the night appears. We hope that it is a really clear night so we can see the amazing night sky here.</p><p>Thanks for all the well-wishes. Your love and support mean a lot to me. See you again tomorrow folks.</p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-8919240282807368332022-03-24T14:02:00.001+01:002022-03-24T14:02:36.329+01:00I opened my mouth and out strolled my mother!<p>When we arrived back at our accommodation after dinner last night, we walked into a lovely toasty room (definitely not hot as Gen can't take that). The first thing I said when i stepped into the room was "nicey, nicey" and my mind went instantly to my mum! She would have loved Port Arthur, and just like me, she would have hated the wind. I have upped the B12 tablets, lather my lips almost hourly and still they split and peel. Any advice would be welcome - don't bother with topical stuff - I have literally tried them all.</p><p>Gen went over and did our laundry before we went to dinner and without an airer in the cabin we resorted to the ironing board, the shower rail and the towel rails to drape things that could not go into the dryer. In future, we will not pack anything that can't be dried in a dryer!</p><p>The cabin was very comfortable and I really appreciated the electric blanket. This morning dawned clear and cool, but thankfully without the wind. We dug into our provisions and brought out croissants bought at the Dunalley Bakery. Even two days old, they were crisp and buttery with sweet, pillowy flaking layers that stood up perfectly to the rich raspberry jam that we bought at the Sorell Fruit Farm. Hot coffees ensured the flakes were washed down.</p><p>We left the NRMA Port Arthur Holiday Park, complimenting the man on duty on the suitable cabin and a beautifully kept park. Again, his response was that now familiar "You are more than very welcome." We headed what I thought was north towards our next night stop at Allonah on Bruny Island. Turns out that for someone who prides herself on a good sense of direction, I had it all balls up today! We were in fact heading west. Port Arthur is actually east of Hobart, not south! And Bruny Island is south. So I've re-set my compass!!</p><p>Our first stop was at the Port Arthur Lavender Farm only 10 minutes up the road from the Holiday Park. Even though it was only 9:30am, and they open at 9am, they were already busy. The visitor centre is beautifully laid out with the building's back to passing traffic, overlooking neat, straight, ordered rows of lavender bordering the adjacent bay. We moved straight outside, hoping to be immersed in their heady scent. However, we are out of season and most of the rows are resting, re-gathering their energy for the next season. All but one plot directly outside the dining area have been harvested and even these rows have had a trim. They have enough blooms still on them to give us a hint of the spring and summer splendour of rich colours evoking thoughts of royalty and rarity, magic and mystery. And alongside this plot are the juvenile plants of newly planted rows. And just like yesterday, the bumble bees are heard before they are seen. Lord knows how - they are HUGE. And busy. Very very busy (little - not) bees!</p><p>The gift shop is filled with all things Lavender and we <i>may</i> have bought a few little things to share. Better let me know if you hate lavender wink wink. We are finding that the price of souvenirs in Tasmania is very fair, encouraging us to make sure we bring little trinkets with us when we head home. Come to think of it, we are planning to post things home a couple of times - starting with tomorrow!!</p><p>Once we had spent enough time here, we hit the road again (heading west) for our next planned stop at the UnZoo. Started by philanthropist David Hamilton in 1979 when it was a more conventional animal park form of zoo. In the intervening years, it has been updated in line with changing views on animals in captivity. Based around the Tasmanian Devil, an extensive breeding program was begun in 1980 that continues to today. The outbreak of a particularly nasty and virulent cancer, now thought to have been a natural mutation passed between the Tasmanian population has made the need for these animals in captivity and in artificail breeding, vital to the species' survival. This park now houses 6 adult Tasmanian Devils in what is endearingly called the bushland views retirement village! All six have been through the breeding program and are now seniors, beyond healthy breeding age. We watched the antics of three today, one male and two females. </p><p>So, here is a <i>Did You Know</i> fact:<br />Female Tasmanian Devils are pregnant for a total period of 3 weeks. Being a marsupial, they carry their pups in a pouch. A typical litter is 40 pups, BUT, she only has four teats, so the survival of the fittest is guaranteed. The remaining 36 pups are usually cannibalised by their mother - a true carnivore.<br />Our guide (sorry, we have both forgotten his name) described them as adorable little creatures that are capable of doing so many things - but NONE of them well! They can run, slowly; jump, poorly; climb, about a foot; see, myopicly; and smell (thankfully for them) very well. They also have the strongest bite to size ratio of all living creatures. And we can attest to this as we listen to them crunching and crushing the bones of the wallaby pieces that were fed to them today - its a sickening sound. They yap like a dog, grunt like a pig and growl like, well, a devil! </p><p>But Devils are not the only wildlife on display. After feeding the first male, we saunter over to the Birds of the Bush area where we hand feed a Green Rosella whose younger newer mate is still too hesitant to come down for the free food. Then Poderick, the Little Wattle Bird, a honey-eater, perched on my hand and drank the nectar he so craved from a milk bottle lid held between my fingers. Sharp little claws, but an even sharper beak! We wandered across the site that was originally planted to apple and pear trees (only one avenue remain in recognition of the former land-use - and at about 80 years old, all too old to bear fruit). We saw Pademelons, Kangaroos and Wallabies, regal Cape Barren Geese and bush hens (a.k.a. Road Runners, just waiting for coyote to stand under a rock). By the time we had done all this, my feet were killing me and back to the visitor centre we go for a drink - ooh, hang on they have ice-cream - Valhalla Ice Cream. If you are in Tasmania, you simply MUST try it - its delicious! Gen chose her fave Boysenberry in a choc-top while I opted for a raspberry sorbet. Gen helped me to finish it. So lovely, so filling!</p><p>Further west we headed, down to where the last bastion of impediment would greet the would-be escapees from Port Arthur - the line of dogs at Eaglehawk Neck. Unfortunately, there is a massive lot of roadworks happening right around the site and we can't even see it. The Officer's Quarters nearby are the closest we can get, so a little disappointing, but the sight in our mind's eye of a desperate, ragged man, struggling for breath after pushing through scrub and forest just to be greeted by a literal line of straining, barking dogs is vivid enough.</p><p>But the day is fast escpaing. We leave Eaglehawk Neck and don't get very far when we see the sign for the Blowhole Lookout. Can't miss that! We turn and drive right to the end of the road. We are at a headland surrounded by tessalated pavements with the water swelling and ebbing, flowing over the rocks and in a breath of the ocean, being sucked back into her lungs. The water came through the tunnel and into the channel carved by an aeon of water's destructive power. But the tide is all wrong. While we can visualise how the Blowhole works, we do not actually see it in action today. It is now after 2pm and while we had planned to have a light lunch in Dunalley where we planned to fuel up on the advice of a local, we realised we might be too late for lunch. So there was a roadside Food Van at the Blowhole. Their fare looked good on the photos on the side of the van. And that was where it stopped. Despite being right in the centre of some of the country's best seafood growing and harvesting grounds, both Gen and I are quite certain that all the pieces of seafood ordered was out of a frozen bag - you know, the sort that can be bought in any discount supermarket. And that generous friendly service was also in poor supply, altogether rather disappointing. Getting to Dunalley about 15 minutes later, we paid $2.06.90 for fuel - by far the cheapest we have seen for a while. In fact, the very next station had the same fuel for $2.24. Go figure.</p><p>We now NEED to be pushing forward and quickly. We are booked in to the <a href="http://www.brunyhotel.com/hotels-homes/" target="_blank">Bruny Hotel Lodge</a>, still two hours away. We need to get to the <a href="http://www.sealinkbrunyisland.com.au/" target="_blank">SeaLink Ferry </a>to get to Bruny Island and to do this, we need to go through Hobart - through the very centre of Hobart's CBD. Once we pass the airport, the traffic increases exponentially, and slows just as dramatically. The traffic drags on and on - you know what it is like when you have somewhere to be, everything in the universe comes together to challenge your every attempt. The roadworks added more time and inconvenience to the trip. Finally we reach the entry to the Ferry Terminal only to find that the VIC, who had booked the passage, had neglected to include the required barcode and with a departure imminent, we are forced to buy another pass - there was no way we could go back, there was a line of traffic longer than the spaces available on the ferry, lined up behind us.</p><p>Turns out, we were the fourth last vehicle squeezed onto the boat. Under the had direction of the deckhands Gen managed to squeeze Lizzy (our Mitsuibishi Lancer) into a space tighter than anywhere else she has been!. The crossing is smooth and lasts about 18 minutes. Sitting in the car, we have to strain to see over the side of the boat. When you watch the land horizon, it hardly looks/feels like we are not moving, but strining, when you look at the water and the beaches, we see that indeed we are moving, and at quite some knots at that.</p><p>Onto the Island - well this Island - <a href="http://www.en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Numer_of_islands_of_Tasmania#" target="_blank">Tasmania is a state of 334 islands</a> - another fact that many of us will not know. Prior to this journey, I was aware of perhaps 6 - and I was always good at Geography!! We made the 4:30pm ferry crossing and are the last vehicle to drive off the ferry just before 5pm. We arrive at the northern point of the north of the two islands known as Bruny Island. Well that is not quite technically correct. North Bruny and South Bruny are one island, but are connected by a very narrow isthmus Truginini or The Neck crossing the waters of Simpsons Bay. We will come back, climb the steps and get some pretty main scenes from here tomorrow or Saturday.</p><p>The views of some of those 334 islands, with evening clouds setting in and the sun waning for the day are amazing. But the wind is increasing and as we are still some way from Alonnah where the accommodation is located, we decide now is not the best time to stop for pics. Distances are not long, but the roads are <i>very</i> winding and Gen is pulling hard in one movement and pushing in the next. By the time we reach the Bruny Hotel, there is a soft gale blowing. We can see some cabins on a rise behind the Hotel and just hope that these are the ones we are booked in to. Gen goes into the Hotel to book in and YAY - they are the units. Before we go up to the cabins, we decide to have an early dinner. Its typical Hotel grub and I am a little disappointed that there is not more extensive seafood on the menu. Gen happily chose Braised Shoulder of Lamb - slow roasted in Bruny Island Cider and Bruny Island Honey served with seasonal vegetables and I chose the Seafood Chowder - home made with Tasmanian white fish, smoked local atlantic salmon and calamari squid. It was rich and thick and warming and that calamari just melted (unlike the tough, stringy pieces at lunch). We washed our meals down with Bruny Island Apple Cider, a very nice drop - not too sweet. Dinner done, we out to the cabins. </p><p>We needed to get some milk to have coffees, and (wait for it) the local store is closed (at 4pm)! The closest store is at Adventure Bay, 20 minutes away. Now, there are plenty of people eating at the pub. Some in their cbins, others in self-drive caravans and camper-vans and others rough camping. If the closest goods store was 20 minutes away, and you had a captive audience, I think that the hotel has missed a huge opportunity - just saying. BUT, it was very worth the drive over to Adventure Bay. If we thought the views on this side of the island were something, the views on the other side are even more so. We turned off with bucolic scenes of cattle and sheep grazing on rolling fields. Over the first rise, we see iconic south pacific scenes - water that ranges from sandy aqua to deep water cetacean blues. There are trees higher than I can see from inside the car, huge tree-ferns. There are white sand beaches and small inlets almost touching the paved road. </p><p>There are beach shacks that look like they have been here since the discovery of the island sitting alongside the slick new constructions - some that have been designed to blend into their landscape while others brag of wealth and entitlement. Milk got, and light fading, we turn back for Alonnah.We encounter the roadside Bakery Fridge that we had read about in the Travelling Tasmania Facebook Group. There are only two loaves of Sultana Bread, so we decide to try again tomorrow either on the way to or back from our booked 3 hour boat cruise. The road is steep, so we can't rush, which is just as well as we encounter 2 pademelons and a wallaby en-route to the cabins.</p><p>Very new. Glass and timber. HUGE picture windows looking out over the water. High end fittings and fixtures. A <i>beautiful</i> alpaca throw on the bed. 'Thank You' (brand) Botanical Patchouli and Vanilla hand wash and lux thick fluffy white towels. After a somewhat big day, we are looking forward to an earlier night. LOL, its midnight!</p><p>More to come tomorrow. Stay safe, keep well.</p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-52169012483475865132022-03-23T13:20:00.000+01:002022-03-23T13:20:38.869+01:00Tasmania - where everything is "You are more than very welcome"<p>After eating our way through some of our provisions last night, we settled in for the night. There was an increasing rain steeling in and the wind was whistling through the trees in the <a href="http://www.nrmaparksandresorts.com.au/port-arthur/" target="_blank">NRMA Holiday Park</a> and more loudly could be heard in the bushland surrounding the park. We were glad to be inside with the aircon gently seeping through the room. Its not set very high, but is definitely warmer than outside.</p><p>We had decided that we would head into the <a href="http://www.portarthur.org.au" target="_blank">Port Arthur Historic Site</a> as soon as they opened at 8am and have breakfast there - sitting at one of the benches that sit around the restaurant border, looking out over the historic site, in relative warm. It truly is a beautiful site around the curve of Mason Cove. I marvel at the knowledge and skill of early explorers, who, from the water, can look at the uncleared lands they encounter and decide where a suitable land for settlement might be found. Whilst the land is steep in past (as Gen's legs will later attest), overall the site is gently undulating with (now) space between the buildings of the settlement. During the tour of the site later, we discover that what we see today is only a small percentage of the buildings that once covered most of the cleared lands here. Photographs in the Visitor Centre certainly show a bustling community not unlike the photos of the early settlement of our home town, Maryborough in Queensland.</p><p>In preparing for dinner last night, we had discovered that I had made some serious mistakes when I was doing the bookings back in February. For instance, the restaurant is closed on Sunday and Mondays which we realised when we arrived at the locked boom gates. It was at that point that Gen and I remembered our conversation last month (can February really be only one month past? It feels like a lifetime) about eating dinner out on the second night of our visit. At the same time, I had also booked our three tours and only last night realised that when I did the booking, I had not changed the booking dates, and so therefore, we were booked for tours in February. When we arrived at the Park this morning, we went to collect our entry tickets and confirm our dinner booking, and despite all the references to no refunds, the staff were very obliging and helpful, putting forward our case for a refund. Thanks so much to the management who have agreed to refund or un-used bookings. Very much appreciated. The advice was that all but one of the tours we had booked were unsuitable for the wheelchair, or even my crutches, so we cancelled them, sadly. The staff had booked us on the 10:30am Introductory Tour which leaves us just on an hour for breakfast once we had sorted out tour bookings. </p><p>So into the restaurant we move to enjoy our breakfast. Gen was hungry after her light dinner last night, whereas I am not so hungry. She ordered the Chef's Special - otherwise known as the 'BIG breakfast' that consisted of sausage, bacon, poached eggs, grilled tomatoes, sauteed mushrooms and home=cooked baked beans on sourdough bread. It looked huge, but she did it justice- even polishing off the sausage (Gen doesn't normally eat sausages but said that this one was very good). On a lighter note, I settled for the child's serve of pancakes, maple syrup with icecream. Pikelet size, they were perfect and just the right size for me. Chai's kept us warm as we looked out over a crisp clear morning.</p><p>Turns out we had plenty of time.</p><p>Our tour group met outside in the chill wind. we moved down the ramp and waited for the group departure as they filed down the steps. What we thought was a large group was parted into two groups at the first path junction we came to and Toby suggested that as his tour kept more to the paths, that we might like to stay with him. Unconcerned with the size of the group, he commented that in the peak of summer, groups for each guide can be up to 100 people. Ours consisted of a mere 24! </p><p>Begun as a timber workstation, Port Arthur was a penal settlement for a relatively short. time in the history of Australia, being established in 1833, housing only 2,000 of the 120,000 men, women and children who were sentenced to transportation to Van Dieman's Land. Went you first get your tickets your are given a playing card with a characture on one side - and you are then sent into The Port Arthur Gallery to learn your fate! If you arrive in a party of two, you get one convict card and one free/military settler card. We got the Ace of Diamonds = John Longwort, a constable who turned to a life of crime once at Port Arthur, and the nine of clubs - Vincent Buccheri - a Sicilian originally from Malta who was transported for desertion. I looked in the wall of drawers into the characters of a lot more of the tranportees and was saddened to read of one, a boy of 12, transported after being charged, but te crime unknown. How many of these unfortunate people ended up here, for being in the wrong place at the wrong time?</p><p>Our walking tour began on the grassy knolls in front of The Penitentiary, learning of the early intended use of the first building on the site as a granary and flour mill, with a huge (and now missing) waterwheel at one end of the buidling. However, the continual lack of a good water supply saw this purpose being abandoned with the conversion to a mush less friendly use as the settlement's Penitentiary. The size of the 'cells' certainly allowed for no joy. Hammocks hung from brass hooks in the walls and each cell had two corner shelves for belongings such as clothes (a set issued each 6 months) and blankets, which would be sorely needed in these climes! A fire burned through the building for two days in January 1895 rendering it useless.</p><p>Our guide, Josh, went to great lengths to explain in detail the life of the penal colony in Port Arthur through the stories of those transported there and the free-settlers that serviced the needs of this community - the constabulary, the military, the clergy, the free settlers. It spoke volumes that the philosophy of discipline and punishment, religious and moral instruction, classification and seperation, and training and education. Given the inhospitable location and the forced 'religious instruction' in a church that was never consecrated due to the varied 'faiths' it needed to accommodate - with the shackled convicts separated from the free-folk by calico curtains, there were only 12 escapees were not recaptured.</p><p>Following the closure of the penal settlement in 1877 the first tourists came to te site the next year. In 1916 the site was aofficially recognised as a 'place of historic interest' and by 1920, there were a number of museums and accommodation houses on the site. Gradually, te State Government acquired the remaining buildings from their private ownership and a major conservation project took place from te 1980s. In April 1996, a gunman took the lives of 35 people and wounded a further 19. This act led to a change in the gun laws of our country that are the envy of many others in the world. In July 2010, Port Arthur and 10 other sites across Australia were inscribed on the World Heritage List as te Australian Convict Sites World Heritage Site. If you look at the <a href="http://www.portarthur.org.au/map/" target="_blank">map</a>, you can see where we spent 5 1/2 hours exploring, up and down the steep, sandy paths with me in the wheelchair and poor Gen giving her legs and arms yet another big workout! There was not a single part of the site we didn't visit. What a day. Te difference in the living standards of the transported convicts and the free settlers was literally as different as chalk and cheese.</p><p>Included in the entry ticket was a harbour cruise, that gave us respite from the wind for about 40 minutes. Out in the harbour on the calm waters, it was easy to see why the site might have been chose, especially when there were stands of dense, straight timbered trees with a height of up to 20 feet to the first branch! But, 15 minutes into the cruise, we are crossing the edge of the waters to the Southern Ocean where the next land is thousands of nautical miles south in Antartica! There was a brief stop en-route to te dock to allow visitors to te 'Isle of the Dead' to disembark - this was one of the tours we had booked, but the guides this morning were very right when they advised us that it was not suitable for anyone with mobility issues - there was not one level spot to be seen! This was the cemetery for the colony.</p><p>So we stayed on the boat, nursing a hot coffee in an effort to warm up - well, at least I was! The wind had not abated and we were glad that Lincoln, (a transport driver who kept an eye on us throughout our day at Port Arthur and rescued us when the going got tough going up the hills, transporting us from one area to another twice) met us at te boat. The wind was now blowing a gale, and back up at the church, there is a light spitting of rain to add to te bleak atmosphere of this place. When you can find a sheltered corner with a sliver of autumn sun, it is warm. As te spitting becomes a light rain, we move down through the Governors Gardens to the lower site. The Dahlia's are huge, lots of thistles (no doubt a reminder of Scotland) play host to loudly buzzing huge bumble bees, hurrying to collect the last of the pollen before the coldness of cold winter months put the natural world into hibernation. You could hear the bees long before you could see them. By now my face is red - whether it be from the wind or te sun, I don't know, and at that point, do I care. Its getting later, the sun is drooping lower in the afternoon sky, and with it its warming rays. The temperature has dropped considerably and its time to head indoors.</p><p>Back at the Visitor Centre, a very timely toilet stop brings immense relief (lol). The building is warm and there is no more wind. We venture into the gift shop, hoping to buy a set of the playing cards used to depict the characters. Not only do we find them, plus a book explaining all the personalities, but lots of other goodies! We are fast gathering the contents of the first box to be sent home!! </p><p>Back to the cabin for a rest and a change before we return for dinner tonight.</p><p>The 1830 restaurant was lovely for breakfast, and dinner is shaping up to be just as good. The menu is limited but with at least one option for all tastes. I am struggling with all the food and finding I get uncomfortable quickly! O, woe is me.<br />We both chose the Pumpkin and Orange Soup with charred bread for entree. Complete with a fair dose of pepper, it was very tasty. Pair with aProsecco for Gen and a Merlot for me, it was rich and warming. Looking across all the options for mains, they all looked too big, so I opted to have the Chicken Terrine with pickled cherries from the entree menu and Gen had the Special of the Day - Braised Beef Short Ribs with celeriac puree and a rich jus. The meat fell off the bone, and disappeared very quickly. Gen said the flavours were well balanced. We waited a little while before ordering desserts. Gen had the Ice Cream Sandwich with Poached Spiced Apple and salted caramel sauce. Mine was the Lemon Brulee with Lime Infused Sorbet and Candied Orange quarters. Oh my gosh, that was a citrus explosion worth repeating, and often! We both finished wit a coffee and a half-nip each of the local Mcenry's Single Malt Whiskey. A very nice tipple, but I'm not sure it is worth more that twice the cost of other single-malts. And for about the fourth time today we were left with the salutation "You are more than very welcome". Tasmania does service and does it well. This saying was used by every staff member we encountered here today as well as the VIC staff two days ago,</p><p>The lights are now on across the site, giving the area a warm glow, belying the chilling winds outside, As we walk out of the building, I am secretly glad that we are not setting off in this wind to do the Ghost Tour, again, not suitable for mobility restricted persons.</p><p>So its back to the Cabin, driving very slowly once we turn onto the access road - there is heaps of wildlife here and warning signs up everywhere - and we don't want to add to the roadkill that is so evident along the higway. It is after 10pm and tomorrow we will stop at the UnZoo to see the Tasmanian Devils and the Port Arthur Lavender Farm on the way to Bruny Island. Better text me if you want lavender products early tomorrow! Ciao, I'm off to a warm bed - turned the electric blanket when we came back. Sleep well world, and spare a thought for the poor people of Ukraine. Gen rema4ked how scary it is becoming and how she thought she would not see war on this scale in her lifetime. I'll check-in with the Hotel where I booked rooms for refugees tomorrow.</p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-25244154039533508382022-03-22T10:52:00.001+01:002022-03-22T11:53:04.869+01:00The rain begins . . .<p>Thankfully Gen had sorted the suitcases last nigght. We are using the small suitcase when we have two night stays to minimise the need to drag the large suitcase out of the car every day.</p><p>This morning we woke to a very overcast morning - not at all cold, but low clouds dripping from the sky as though they wanted to join their watery cousins in the bay. Still very full from our dinner last night, we decided to buy a takeaway croissant and coffee and hit the road. Just as well we didnb't want to eat in at Jackman and McRoss - whoever would have expected Thursday to be as busy or busier that the weekend and Monday. Not only were they full, they were turning walkins away, or giving them a booking time to return for a table!</p><p>So, chocolate croissants and chai teas were the order of the day. The croissants were warm from the toaster, with chocolate drizzled over the top and spread generously through the centre. Two bites in and I'm saying to gen that there was no way I could finish it I think that my stomach went into revolt, still trying to clear a space for more food! We sat at the park at Salamanca Place and ate our 'breakfast', in the car because by now it is drizzling. The traffic is might lighter this morning - guess if you are holidaying in Hobart at the moment, you are taking refuge indoors from the quickly turning weather.</p><p>We had not brought water/wind proof jackets with us from the limited range in warmer Queensand, preferring to wait we got to Tassie where we knew the selection would be more substantial. The girls at the <a href="https://www.hobarttravelcentre.com.au/" target="_blank">VIC</a> yesterday suggested that we try Kathmandu in the City, but that if we wanted a bargain, we would be better calling in to Anaconda on our way south. I knew where this was as we had passed in when travelling from the Aiport into the City on Saturday. And if she thought we would get.a better bargain at Anaconda, all I can say is that I am glad we didn't go to Kathmandu - because it was not cheap for <u>any</u> of the clothing choices. The jackets began over $200 and despite a search of all on display, poor Gen with her generous busom could not find the size or cut that would comfortably fit her. We had called into a chemist earlier nd bought cheap ponchos that could be worn in inclement weather, So she left with a warm fleecy, hooded jacket and will make do with the poncho over it. Luckily for me, there was plenty to choose from, and knowing that it won't get must use in Queensland (although will be perfect for us should we get back across the ditch to NZ), I bought a lined jacket that not only had a hood, but also an extended collar that can be turned up to cover my ears in windy but now wet weather. The credit card is surely being given a bit of a flogging!</p><p>So we turned C24TS (our hire car - a Magna) south for the southern districts. <a href="https://tasmania.com/points-of-interest/richmond/" target="_blank">Richmond</a> and <a href="http://www.sorell.tas.gov.au" target="_blank">Sorell</a> are short detours off the Highway South and we know from those who have visited before us that Richmond in particular was worth a stop. </p><p>Seems like half of Tasmania has the same idea. Parking is at a premium and as we turn down small back streets, we find quaint churches and the <a href="www.richmondbotanicalsco,com" target="_blank">Richmond Botanicals Company.</a> Now settled in Tasmania, the owner and her husband had moved after he left an army posting here. And like Antony and Amanda, they lived in most states of Australia. They had purchased a corner building along with outbuildings such as the stable (where the shop is now situated, and the servant quarters). The beautiful garden and sympathetic restoration displaying part of the history of the site including laying new flooring over the uneven cobblestones that would be impossible to traverse as a retail setting. However, they have left windows in to the past by providing 'windows' into the original flooring, covered with toughened glass. There is an extensive range of soaps and candles manufactured on-site with a complementary range of local products that includes some of the most beautiful alpaca blankets that I have ever seen or felt. They have a beautiful poodle and an older retriever, white with age and slow to rise for a pat, So Gen managed to get a cuddle with them - not as good as snuggling up to our Blossom (cat), but perhaps the next best thing! (Quite) a few pennies lighter, we move on.</p><p>We manage to park on the street opposite the Richmond Arms Hotel, where one of the local characters is welcoming all the visitors vocally! You certainly can call Taswegians a friendly folk! We wander up and down streets, into alleys and courtyards, finding all sorts of local goodies. There was an olde time lolly shop that was packed with guests, but the most popular venue in town today is the Richmond Bakery whose courtyard has seating to about 80 people. We are still not hungry and knowing we are at the 1830 restaurant for dinner at the Port Arthur historic site, decide not to have lunch. The drizzle has now increased to a light rain and local and visitor alike are seeking shelter indoors. We decide to get back in to the car and keep travelling south. From Richmond, we take the scenic coastal route and come upon Sorrell. Surprisingly big for such a rural setting with heaps of new development taking place. A real juxtaposition of age softened dwellings alongside much smaller modern dwellings that just scream (in Kim's voice) Look at me, look at me! The johnny come lately, brassy city cousin, come to stay. </p><p>As we turn back towards Port Arthur, Gen spies a sign for a Fruit Barn where you can pick your own fruit. All that is in season are apples, pears, nashi and tomatoes. We get out of the rain (I ain't picking anything for anyone in the rain!) and enter the small shop onsite. Filled with james and chutneys, it smells of a home kitchen and Angie, the owner tells us she has just taken scones out of the oven. Bugger - we will have to try them! We shared a savoury scone served with cheese and the nicest tomato relish I have ever tried, and the a sweet one with Raspberry Jam (I can make strawberry any old day, but the raspberries here are something else - HUGE, plump and sooo flavourful) and cream. Both were warm, and delicious, but tbt savoury ones got our vote. Turns out, it is only 25 kms to Hobart, so evidently there are more ad more people living outside the urban area and commuting to work in Hobart. <a href="http://www.sorellfruitfarm.com" target="_blank">Angie</a> tells us that the traffic into town at peak hour is horrific. Its all relative I guess. I would be happy for a few minutes of pain daily to live in such a lovely area.</p><p>Heading still further south, towards the end of the trafficable world, we are coming into the large eucalypt forests. The tress are turning, shedding their bark for the new season, like a woman changing her attire. Their bark drapes in graceful folds, uncovering the bold new colours of the new season. A bit like the oranges, reds and deep ochres that are all the rage this autumn. Their scent is heady, not as sharp as menthol, but just as therapeutic. The silver touched leaves hang long, dripping the water gathered high in their folds to the root line, ensuring that the whole tree benefits from the short rainfall. And the tree ferns are growing larger. I have never seen such large fronds and overall tree ferns - they tower above us and their fronds stretch metres across - its the sort of plant that I would imagine would be found in tropical climes, not the cool scherophyll forests. Something new to learn every day!.</p><p>We call into a small bakery en-route to buy a couple of breadrolls and croissants for breakfast in the morning - at least that was the plan - tomato chutney and cheese on the bread rolls and and some of the sublime raspberry jam on the croissants. Certainly won't hurt us - either in the hip pocket or the stomach, to have a lighter breakfast!</p><p>We arrive at the <a href="https://www.nrmaparksandresorts.com.au/port-arthur/" target="_blank">NRMA Port Arthur Holiday Park</a>, with another four vehicles. It is nicely laid out - nestling powered and unpowered sites and various glamping options and cabins between a range of forested areas. we cannot park in our designated car spot because they are waiting for an aborist to trim a large gum. I suppose they can take risks, but it looks ok to my untrained eye. Car unpacked, Gen lies down for a quick snooze while i begin today's post. Jeopardy watched - yes, I try to keep up that little obsession - I wake Gen to get ready for dinner. </p><p>Our reservation is for 6pm dinner followed by the 8:30pm ghost tour. It's definitely cooling down, and even though I have put on my new season wool jumper, I am still cool. Looks like my new (expensive) all-weather coat that I bought this morning is going to come in handy tonight! We head off-site to the main road to the <a href="http://www.portarthur.org.au" target="_blank">Port Arthur Historic site</a>. Veer to the left following the signs to the 1830 Restaurant only to find the gate padlocked and a sign saying that the gate is locked at the close of business. So how the hell do we get to the restaurant? We can't find any other access. A look at the sign again and it says open Wednesday to Sunday. What the??? we have a dinner reservation for tonight. Oops, no we don't - and its just about now we remember having a conversation about whether we change our days of the booking because of this very reason! So no reservation for tonight!<br />That's not a big problem, we have the breadrolls, the chutney, apples, raspberries and blackberries. We can make do. Now, if only we could get some cheese to have with the bread and relish. Into the carpark of the Bottlo and IGA we turn - nope, they are closed!!! Really? it literally 6pm! And given that Port Arthur doesn't have a town centre of any form, we decide that a drive to Nubeena a mere 11kms away is in order. Back into the forest we travel and climb up 12% slopes and then down the other side, watching the clouds being born in the treetops around us. Coming down the mountainside, we are teased with glimpses of water, Wedge Bay on the left, while on our right is a dry marsh are with its sedge grasses sitting like small islands in the midst of this straw coloured lake. The Bay views are stunning - there is not a breath of wind, not a ripple on the water so the view including boats moored in the Bay is mirrored - quite a beautiful sight.</p><p>Now, <a href="http://www.ourtasmania.com/hobart/nubeena.html" target="_blank">Nubeena</a> is the service centre for Port Arthur, so you would think something might be open. Nope, the RSL serves meals Wednesday to Sunday and the supermarket closes at 6pm! So much for being a tourist destination. We turn the car around, and with tail between our legs, we head back for the caravan park and will just polish off our entire stock of fruit, meagre rolls and will have to suffice with water and the whiskey sampler we purchased at Salamanca Markets last Saturday - life really is not bad at all. And just before we turn into the park, we spy a sign that says groceries and drinks. And they are still open! Run by asian, they are somewhat more enterprising - ☺. So, here we sit, in a very suitable little cabin, snacking on bread with cheese and chutney and apple slices, nibbling on a side of full-thimble sized raspberries and only slightly smaller blackberries, sipping on 'The Good Pear' sparkling juice with a dessert of our one slice of Maple and Pecan Pie also purchased at the Salamanca Markets. Yes, life is most definitely sweet!</p><p>There are padmelons, ground parrots at our door and we fully expect to be visited by possums tonight. Sayonara - its going to be a VERY full day tomorrow, so we are going to try to get to bed a little earlier tonight.</p><p><i><u>Post script</u></i></p><p><i>While I was going through the photos I took today, I came across the ones taken where we turning at Eaglehawk Neck. At a T intersection we sat at a red arrow. Couldn't see what the stop was for. It seemed that forward traffic was free to go, but those waiting to cross the water onto the final piece of the oeninsula could not. And then, to our left something was happeni9ng that I couldn't understand, until the bridge had swung open enough for us to see it moving! The bridge swung open to allow the passage of a fishing vessel. It chugged through quietly and efficiently and then the bridge keeper pushed another button and the bridge swung back to its home state. The arrow stopped flashing, and the traffic moved forward. If you had not been there to see it, you would never know that the bridge even opens. The small instances in a day can be so interesting! </i></p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7809923280622465010.post-16208102682765451632022-03-21T13:53:00.000+01:002022-03-21T13:53:01.800+01:00Hobart - a City of choices<p> Despite the rain late yesterday and last night, this morning dawned overcast but clear. The rain has cleansed everything, the air is crisp and the light is bright.</p><p>We begin our morning with breakfast at <a href="http://dacidaci.com.au" target="_blank">Daci and Daci</a> - yet another bakery recommended by many. Situated on the fringe of the CBD, we consider ourselves lucky to get a car space across the road. They are busy, but we get a table without any difficulty. And now to the choices - the first of many for the day.</p><p>The menu is varied with all day servings from both the breakfast and lunch meals. After coffees while we deliberate, we settle on a Twice Cooked Gruyere Souffle from the breakfast choices and a Chicken, Creamed Leek and Tarragon Pie served with Red Pepper Relish from the lunch menu. I ate about 3/4 of the souffle and Gen, 3/4 of the pie. They were truly delicious, flavour-some but not at all heavy. The service couldn't be faulted, again with all staff wishing the patrons, enjoy the rest of your day - every one of them to every customer. TASMANIA DOES SERVICE and does it very well. There is no rush, people sit and chat, sipping hot drinks if not partaking in a meal. We admire how classy the black uniform looks on the waitresses, and look up at the funky lighting. We've decided rayther than try to take a cake with us, we would add dessert to our breakfast - we are not planning to have lunch so we are ready for Mures and seafood tonight! In deference to the growing number of patrons in the shop, Gen goes to the front display counters and photographs the amazing pastries and cakes - all of them! They are amazing and are the subject of choice no 2. Again, we decide that if we buy two different ones, and share them, we can expand our experiences. After discussions and sometimes almost arguments, we choose the Mandarin and the Organic Chocolate and Raspberry Bombe.</p><p>The Mandarin looks realistically like a ripe, plump mandarin sitting atop a fine small pastry tart and the Bombe had the crispest tempered chocolate shell encasing a rich but not over-sweet pudding consistency filling with a raspberry gel centre. They were very different, one lighter and citrussy and the other rich and the other dark and decadent. Needing another hot drink to have with our desserts, but not wanting to be bouncing off walls, we both had a seven-spiced Chai Latte. So, breakfast, morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea all done in the one setting we leave this little bit of paradise.</p><p>Our next choice was to decide whether we take a little time out to plan the coming few days, or start our exploration of historic Hobart. Planning won and we headed to the Tourist Information Bureau for advice and bookings. Again, the service was friendly and prompt. Staff gladly shared their passion and knowledge for their home state, made suggestions and checked vacancies in the South East for the following few days. I had booked for Port Arthur before we left home, but that was as far as we had planned. So looking at our (dwindling) time and our desire to see as much of the island state as we possibly can. So we explored two routes in particular around the Huon and Bruny Island.</p><p>After checking accommodation and tour vacancies we settled on two days on Bruny Island staying at the Bruny Hotel lodges at Alonnah and on my birthday, taking the Pennicott Wilderness cruise on the waters around the island and the adjacent Tasman Sea. We have needed to buy a National Park Pass. You buy it for a day, a week or for 2 months. So two months it is! Not sure whether we will be able to pass it on to someone for the second month, seems like a bit of a waste if we can't, but it was the most economical choice (yes, another choice!!) Also booked the Bruny Island ferry (also owned by SeaLink - starting to think that they have control of most of the ferries connecting the Australian mainland and our far-flung islands). After collecting appropriate tourist literature, we raced across the road to 'negotiate' with parking inspectors who had taken an interest in our car. Like all the Tasmanians they were friendly, and given that we were now ready to leave, they were accommodating. (we had overstayed our time - just a little!)</p><p>Parking, like in any capital city, is at a premium. The VIC (visitor information centre) staff had recommended that we use the Council car parks as they are cheaper and more conveniently located than the private car parks. Would hate to see how much less convenient the private ones are, because it was a bugger to get to the Council one! Google Maps does not recognise one-way streets in Hobart, so we ended up going quite a few blocks more than what we would have, had we been on foot.</p><p>This afternoon was devoted to exploring the Hobart CBD. Leaving the carpark, we encounter the first of many many hills and dales. Hobart has any number of very steep streets, and given the distance that we were planning on seeing, she had insisted that it was a wheelchair day. Thank goodness she did, there is no way that I could have walked where we went. We followed 'Hobart's Historic Places - A walking guide through the city centre' - a guide we can highly recommend.</p><p>We concentrated our walk in the Victoria, Collins, Macquarie and Davey Streets between Argyle and Harrington Streets. We explored church and cathedral - St Joseph's Church - the oldest surviving Catholic Church in Hobart and St David's Cathedral where we found a tattered piece of a Union Jack flag that is dedicated to Australia's last Anzac Alec William Campbell, in stark contrast with home where we celebrate Australia's first Anzac, Duncan Chapman. </p><p>Following these immersions, we moved into more secular surroundings, stopping to admire the statuary and fountain and public art in Franklin Square where the dedications leave no doubt to the appreciation of the citizens of Hobart to earlier public models. Hobart's amazing architectureincludes the Hobart City Hall, the National Mutual Life Building, the Masonic Lodge, Hadley's Hotel, Ingle Hall and Hobart Town Hall - which span more than 200 years. We finally arrive at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery. It was here we took refuge from the sun and breeze, although I found the temperature and humidity controlled environment a tad chilly. And my poor lips are paying the price - I was hoping that away from the stresses of work, my lips would stop peeling - wind and aircon however are giving them no respite! </p><p>This complex is set in three floors (plus basement) of the former Bond Store and an adjacent younger building. Beginning with the geography, geology and zoological displays that showcased Tasmania's unique wildlife very well, the second and third floors concentrated on the social history of the development of the state, concentrating predominantly on the Hobart area. it was good to see that the encounters and later treatment of the First Peoples were genuinely portrayed. As sad as any colonising force many of the local natives that were encountered were murdered.</p><p>In the adjacent building there were exhibits that detailed Australia's activities and excursions into Antarctica where the worrying prediction states that within 50 years we may see much of that continent devoid of snow in the summer months!<br />There was scientific equipment, a 'live' (for the want of a better word) chunk of Antarctic ice - place in a frame on a refrigerated bed. No wonder I was feeling the cold in this room! Gen on the other hand loved its icy air!!</p><p>The balance of this building housed art exhibitions including a Taswegian artist who lost her home in bushfires and is constructing new furniture from reclaimed wood and branches and twigs, hoping to fill a future home that is airy and stark. Her pieces are very organic and really tell a story. There was the Tasmanian collection of old and new masters and one focussed on jewellery. That one didn't really appeal to either of us.</p><p>It is now 4:45 pm and the museum is closing. Back into the streets we go, me in the wheelchair and Gen manouvertting through the-end-of-working-day crowds, up more. hills than we care to count to return to the car. We have a booking at Mures for dinner and Gen really wants to rest for an hour or so before a refreshing shower. Our reservation is for 7:30pm, the first booking we could get.</p><p>At 6:45 we depart the Battery Point Manor for Mures. </p><p>There are three venues at the facility - Mures Upper Deck which is a rated restaurant, Mures Lower Deck which is more casual and Pearl and Co which is more of a retailing seafood. We had a reservation for <a href="http://www.mures.com.au/upperdeck" target="_blank">Mures Upper Deck</a> - on the recommendation of friends and those who have previously lived in Hobart. <br />The traffic has calmed down and we find. parking spot within metres of the door. That was where my luck ran out. They have a stair-lift, a commercial version of the one we were considering for home, but it needs a key. So up the stairs goes Gen to collect said key, only to be told that the lift is currently out of order. Back down she comes to deliver the bad news and to walk behind me as I climb 18 stairs to the restaurant. With 14 steps at home, I figured it would be a breeze. Not quite. They were steeper and those last 4 steps were a challenge.</p><p>We are shown to a window-side table, both seated to look out over the waters of Victoria Dock and beyond that to Constitution dock where the Sydeny to Hobart Race ends. <br />The menu is not large, and with some meat and vegan options, it focuses on locally caught seafood.<br />More choices to be made. Do we do entrees, mains and desserts? Or do we choose The Share Table at $70 per head? Of course we chose the latter and it was sublime, beginning with warm olive bread with oil and balsamic reduction that we paired with a cocktail. Then the courses in order of presentation were:<br />1. Oysters - we chose Kilpatrick<br />2, Gravlssx<br />3. Scallops (roe on) with smashed broad beans and bacon scallop cream<br />4. (Amazing) Seafood spaghetti with squid, salmon, premium white fish, prawns with a tomato salsa - one of the best dishes I have ever eaten.<br />5. Mures prawns and crumbed pink ling with chips, salad, brocollini and beans. And they had the hide to call this Fish and Chips!<br />6. Finally, dessert! A Chocolate Mousse with salted caramel sauce, toasted cocnut, orange segments and an almond crisp, It was light but oh-so-rich. The other dessert was a much lighter Earl Grey brulee, milk crumb and candied citrus peel.<br />We enjoyed a cocktail followed by a Pinot Gris for me and a cherry and pear Cider for Gen. We couldn'e even fit in any coffee!!</p><p>Decided we would walk along the dock looking at amazing bronzed statuary that pay homage to early settlers, early explorers and those who have lost their lives at sea fishing so that all of Australia can have quality seafoods from the cold southern waters. By now the wind had dropped and there were few pedestrians and even fewer cars, so it was easy to spend the next hour wandering the dock.</p><p>We have now returned to the Battery Point Manor and as I finish this tale, Gen is re-loading suitcases in readiness for our departure tomorrow for Port Arthur.</p><p>Check in again tomorrow night for the next instalment in our trip!</p>Mariahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14164453848853696818noreply@blogger.com0