Maria and Michael on the Road

Where to from here?

2010-04-21T13:36:00.009+02:00

Well everyone, after being home for almost five months I have decided that I am going to continue blogging - a little differently though. I miss the conversations we have!

I can't bring myself to continue this blog into life back home. The differences are just too great!

This blog is the story of our amazing journey. When I started it as we were getting ready to leave for Europe, the main purpose was so that friends and family could share a little of the journey with us. Well, in the end there were more than 6,000 discrete readers - a little fact that to this day still blows me away. Many of the people reading have never met us, and are unlikely to ever meet us - I guess some of them were friends of friends of friends that we made along the journey. If anyone ever makes it to Australia, despite whether you met us or not, contact us - you'll always have a bed at our place in Maryborough Queensland for a night or two!

I blogged daily with the exception of 2 or 3 days. In the end I had it down to a fine art - getting on to the computer around 10 pm or later if we came back in from dinner later - and spent on average 2 hours per day dowloading the photos from the camera, selecting the ones to use and then re-sizing them while all the time writing the entry. And yes, it was late when I usually finished, but the upside to that was that it was about breakfast time back here in Australia and we could Skype Antony and Amanda and talk to Little-Miss-Chatterbox, our beautiful little granddaughter Izabella. The great benefit is that she remembers who we are and recognised us easily when they were here at Christmas - oh, the joys of modern communication! Oh and by the way, she now has a little brother - Thomas George was born 6 April - 8lb 3oz and 23 inches - a beautiful big little boy.

There was one week when Helen was travelling with us that I didn't get to upload the blog - and by the end of the week I was getting desperate emails - from Where are you now? Is everything OK? through to UPDATE THE BLOG. NOW! Had to laugh at that one - and you know who you are!!!! And since arriving home there have been countless people who have said to me how they miss starting the day with reading what we are up to. Gosh, who would have thought people would find it that interesting?!

In the end though, it became so much more than just a way to talk with you all. It has become the most amazing record of everything we saw and did, the people we met, the places we stayed, the food we ate. While we were travelling it was getting to the point where we were forgetting some of that detail - I think it was because our heads were still being filled with all sorts of interesting 'stuff'. Since getting home though, my recall has improved dramatically and I can tell stories from almost every day - I only have to close my eyes and it is like I am there all over again - well, kind of.

We are planning to print the blog into a hard glossy coffee table style book - with the blog entries on the right hand side pages and more of those 79,053 photos we took on the opposite pages. In A4 format (because other formats literally double the cost) it will take at least two volumes I am advised by the printer. WOW. Still, I will never have enough time to scrapbook this story given that it took me 3 years to scrap my last 6 week trip to Europe. And I like the way it reads too much not to have a copy. We plan to just print one copy for ourselves. There are thousands of travel books in any library and I really don't think that there is enough demand to actually publish this. I'll let you all know how it goes.

So this is my final post on this blog.

Thank you one and all for sharing this amazing journey with us. Every day when the TV is on there are so many times that we say , "Oh wow, we have been there". In fact we are saying it so often lately that our daughter Gen mimics me before I can say it - I think she is getting tired of hearing it. We are trying to convince her to save hard and to travel while she is young and without commitments to tie her down.

I will continue to blog from this address - you are welcome to come on over if you are interested.

Don't cry because it is over. Smile because it happened.

Theodor Suess Geisel

Reconnecting with my roots

2009-11-26T12:26:00.011+01:00

Now that we have a car, and with itchy feet because we are not travelling any longer and not seeing new things every day, we had planned a day taking the two mums over some of the country that my mum grew up in. We get away in good time and are on the road after breakfast about 10 am. First stop is to say 'hi' to Dad and check on his grave at the largest cemetery in Newcastel, the Sandgate Cemetery. All looks in good condition and it is hard to believe that it is almost 9 years since we lost him to Motor Neurone Disease. We pass by the graves of Mum's parents - George and Annie Stevens as well and it is nice and clean as well. They are not at all like the cemeteries that we saw so often in Europe, adjacent to the churches and filled with flowers growing on the plots. Here the cemeteries are sited on seperate land are are somewhat stark, just row on row on row of gravestones with little colour - I guess we are following somewhat the example set by the early English settlers.

So we push on, knowing that we want to cover quite a bit of territory today. Our next stop is at Bulahdelah, north on the Pacific Highway about 80 kms from Newcastle. There are major highways works underway around here with a bypass planned doe the town. But at the moment, we still pass through and there, in the same spot as he has had for the last 20 years or so is a cherry seller, next to one of the local petrol stations. We stop, eager to taste more of the amazing fruit that we have available to us here in Australia in summer and buy two half-kilo bags. One for Michael and I in the front of the car and another for the mums in the back. The next half hour or so is very quiet as we all stuff our faces. Gosh they are good. Thick and firm, they burst their juices into your mouth with the first bite, full of deep cherry flavour. Yu-um!

We leave the Pacific Highway and head on to The Lakes Way that will take us around the Myall and Smith Lakes system to reach Forster and Tuncurry where the lakes enter in to the ocean. Long known as caravanning beach holiday towns on the mid-north coast of New South Wales, these have grown to include many medium density holiday apartment complexes and all the mod-cons that the modern holiday maker seems to need - clubs, cinemas, shopping centres. But if you leave the main street in either of these twin towns that straddle the Wampoola River mouth where it connects with the draining Wallis Lake, connected by a bridge that is clowly sinking in to the sandy depths, then little has changed - there are streets and streets of holiday homes waiting for the arrival of the summer holidays, getting ready for their owner families who will spend much of the 6 - 8 weeks living a very casual beachside lifestyle. First time visitors to Foster-Tuncurry are usually amazed at the colour of the water that break out from the lakes under the bridge and out to sea. With a sandy base, this water is some of the clearest, bluest and aqua water that you see in this part of the country (you need a sandy base to get a blue river, when they have a mud or dirt base then it looks muddied).

We continue our trip a little further north to Old Bar just outside Taree. This was where my Dad grew up and I have fond memories of a holiday with my sister Donna when I was about 13 or 14 staying with our great aunt and uncle on their dairy farm at Pampoolah just down from Grandma and Granpa's home. Of course this once very rural area is changing with more new subdivisions springing up every time I come through here. We head right down to the beach, exposed to gale force winds today, whipping up huge seas with very obvious rips - but it doesn't deter the board riders who seem to take great delight in the less than safe seas - thankfully there are no swimmers trying to brave the waters - just a few paddlers. We are disappointed that the surf club is not open for meals as it is well and truly lunch time now - in fact it is after 1:30 pm.

There is a small hamburger shop open in the park just back from the beach and once we have placed orders for 'burgers with the works' for us all we head back out into the sun. Netta lies soaking it up while the rest of us head for the shade of one of the covered picnic tables. Now, those burgers were fantastic - mince patties, bacon, egg, lettuce, tomato, pineapple, beetroot, cheese and onion barely held within a straining bun. We had bought a serve of hot chips to share, but really the burgers are enough. This is fast food at its very best - hot and fresh and bursting with goodness. Followed by coffees all round we felt like kings.

Onward and upwards to Taree where Mum had lived for many years, where she met and married Dad and where I was born. This city sits on the banks of the Manning River and is a lush green city. As we cross the bridge into the city we can clearly see the one remaining riverside black of undeveloped land that Mum's aunt owns. That has got to worth a bit these days with everyone wanting waterfront property. Over the bridge I call on Mum's memory to take us up to the family home on the corner of Smith Street.

You know with the memory of a child, I remember this house to be a huge sandstone construction. We spent many happy times here visiting with Nanny and Pa and the first time I came back passed here (when we were moving our family to Bundaberg in Queensland), I was disappointed as it was much smaller than my memory remembered and of brick construction. Today, it is beautifully kept and is indeed a large home for its day with a multiple of bedrooms and the most enormous sleepout (a closed in verandah area lined with beds along the outer long wall) that catered for the large Stevens family of 8 children and the many visitors or workers who also regularly stayed. Taree has adopted the Flame Tree as their city emblem and today the main street of Victoria Street is lined with superb examples in full bloom - a truly beautiful native tree.

Wauchope
Ellenborough Falls
Comboyne to Landsdowne - a real trip down memory lane for both Mum and me!

Have wheels will travel !

2009-11-23T12:59:00.011+01:00

Ahhh - the joy of being mobile again! I love having a car and really feel only half complete without one! This morning Netta had an appointment with her eye specialist in Fairfield and so I take her over while Michael trims the bushes around the house.

All goes well and like eveyone, the specialist is amazed at how well and active and 'young' Netta is for an 87 year old person. Once home, we finish loading the car and we all head out of Sydney and north towards Newcastle and my mum's place.

Mum lives in a suburb of Newcastle just 2 hours north of Sydney. Some of you might remember that this was where Australia had it's first earthquake with fatalities - gee 10+ years ago now. Years ago there was a very large industrial base here with a steelworks and the associated type of companies that goes along with the like, but today that industry has gone along with most heavy industry of it's ilk to the cheaper offshore economies. Newcastle for some time became an economically depressed city with very high unemployment, but today has turned itself around and now has a very successful university and a vibrant tourism industry.

Mum and Dad bought their very first house in Newcastle the year before we left Sydney to move to Queensland (that was in 1990) and she still lives in it, as large as it is. Comes in handy when we all want to visit, although we keep telling here that the days of all the family being there at the same time are going to be very few and far between these days - what with us all thrown to the four corners these days. We arrive late in the afternoon and are met with tears and hugs and then the best that mum does - food food and more food! The night is spent reminiscing, catching up with the latest family news and telling tales of our trip - although we don't get those tens of thousands of photos out yet. It was enough just getting out the little keepsakes that we had bought home for her.

Wednesday dawns bright and warm. We are struggling (OK you had better make that more of me) with the adjustments we need to make due to the change in the climate we are now experiencing. We have gone from cool late autumn to the hot and humid heaviness that Australia feels in the lead up to Christmas as summer begins to take a full hold. Mum keeps the house shut up and when it really gets unbearable, puts on the airconditioner. She however NEVER feels the cold, so has no need of it for herself. Not sure whether she is lucky or not - she would have died in the European cold!!!

Mum has a sister (Catherine) and brother-in-law (Don) that had lived in another Newcastle suburb for many years and when they retired they built a beautiful new duplex with another of their sisters Rita (whose daughter Anna was recently such a godsend in England) overlooking the beach at Caves Beach. So today we are having lunch with Don and Catherine and Rita at the Caves Beach Hotel that has had a major makeover - it has gone from the (friendly) ugly duckling to a very sophisticated and lovely swan.

Rita had visited Anna and Garry and the boys during the year while we were on the continent and it is lovely to catch up and exchange stories. Don and Catherine spent part of the year travelling to the Queensland coast and had a very relaxing time. This is one of the trips they ususually do each year and when we are home, they will often call in, so it is lovely to see them all. The food was fabulous and we nearly all selected from the extensive seafood menu and we are taken back to our time on the Atlantic coasts of Europe. The seafood here is quite different from that we had earlier in the year, but nevertheless very fresh and wonderfully good.

After lunch we had back to Caves Beach for coffee at Catherine and Don's place before we head home to mums. Of course, we detour via the supermarket and it is as busy as it can be, now that we are so close to Christmas.

Its a family affair

2009-11-21T23:55:00.007+01:00

Michael has a large extended family and when we left Sydney to live in Queensland all those years ago (just short of 20 years ago), we tried to make sure that we kept in regular contact. As the kids all started school I took a part time job so that I could be there for them most of the time and as it was with the Department of Education I was able to arrange my hours so that I was able to have time off in almost all the school holidays. And in those holidays we would drive back to Sydney to catch up with the family. I remember great times when we (all the various families) would get together for a big Greek style picnic at Neilsen Park in Vaucluse. And so, now that we have arrived back on the mother soil, everyone is coming over and we are catching up all over again. LOVE IT.

Today our nephew Micah and his lovely wife Amanda came up from the Southern Highlands south of Sydney. Yes, there are a whole heap of Amandas in the family at the moment! Micah is the eldest child of Michael's brother Peter and he and his brothers and sister are all pretty close to our kids. I guess all those trips back to Sydney paid off! Antony and his Amanda called in and spent time with them when they were on holidays recently and will do so again en-route to Antony's new posting in Wagga in January.

Micah has just completed studying an Advanced Diploma in Mechanics at TAFE and has been enrolled in an Engineering Degree at Wollongong University to start next March. We are all so proud of him!

A little later Michael's cousin Phil and his wife Mandy called in. Philip is a Captain with Qantas and we had eagerly scanned the crew faces before we left Singapore wondering whether we might have been lucky enough to have him flying us, but no it wasn't to be. Together with Mandy, they have established East Ridge Olive Grove west of Sydney at Lue near Mudgee. This year was a bumper year with great tasting oil by all accounts, and Mandy has bought me a bottle today - can't wait to get home and try it. Mandy and I used to catch up every year and it was great to see them today! There was lots of story sharing as Phil and Mandy were in the UK for a wedding while we were on the continent. And there was even more reminiscing about times gone in the family.

Morning tea became lunch and salad ingredients and cold cuts on the table were soon stuffing breadrolls. Too hot for tea and coffee so we had made a large bowl filled with punch (peppermint tea, mint, apricot nectar, pineapple juice and ginger ale - very refreshing) and managed to down the lot - all 7 litres of it!

Great day!! Tomorrow after we take mum to her eye specialist we are off up to Newcastle 2 hours to the north to visit my mum - and Netta is coming with us - yahoo!

And as the night is winding towards a close, brother Peter comes in! Yep. Great all round!

Cars and jobs and cleaning house

2009-11-20T09:04:00.012+01:00

The weather is as oppressive as we have been dreading. Today it reached an uncomfortable 39°C which is a hell of a shock to my body that up until a few days ago was enjoying the late autumn temperatures in Europe. The water situation here is critical. There are major bushfires burning across much of New South Wales and South Australia and some just north of home in Queensland.

Heat wave conditions saw high temperatures in much of New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia with the maximum today in a number of towns of 45°C (that is 113°C !). Give me back autumn! Here in western Sydney it got to 42! Late in the afternoon there was an impressive electrical storm with more than 800 lightening strikes recorded in Sydney alone. Two houses hit by lightening were burned down - one of the hazards of living in Australia.

Well after a few days of searching Michael finally found us a car today. He had trawled the Auto Alley area of Parramatta / Granville yesterday after we found nothing in the newspapers, but with no success. So this morning Mum phoned her neighbours who know a local dealer and Jim very kindly offered to take Michael down to see the cars in their yard.

Still no luck and then Jim got very kind. He offered to take Michael out to Minchinbury (about half an hour from here) to where there is a conglomerate of dealers. And finally, he found this Subaru Impreza - you know the kind that was in the Fast and Furious movies!! Nah, not really, a hatchback! Older than what we really wanted and more expensive, but the best of what was on offer.

A summer cold is the worst to try and get rid of and I am feeling more and more congested each day. Still, I am on drugs and syrups so hopefully I can knock it before too long. There were a couple of highlights between the sneezes today. Peter ten, Michael's school boy friend called in and we shared a lot of laughs while waiting for Michael to get back, and then Lesley, whose gorgeous mum passed away recently, visited and we spent a couple of hours reminiscing with her. All sitting in the relative comfort of the air conditioned family room.

And then - we managed to get tickets to Mamma Mia the musical, playing at the Lyric Theatre at Star City! AND THEY ARE IN THE SECOND ROW FROM THE STAGE!!! So Lesley, the two mums and I are in for a real treat on Tuesday 1 December. Watch out world - might have to stop talking for a few days so that my voice recovers enough for a great singalong!

The other thing I have been up to is re-packing all our 'stuff' so that like things are all together. We have not bought a great deal of souvenirs, or at least I did not think we had, but all together, they fill to bursting the on-board suitcase that we bought. And once I had taken the grog we bought during the last couple of months out of one of the suitcases then I could get all our winter clothing in to one suitcase! So we are now sorted - winter in one, summer (as much as we have) in another for us to use now, souvenirs in one bag and bits and bobs in about another 4! Easier to find things thankfully. And Gen has told us that the three parcels we posted home from Europe in the last couple of weeks have all arrived safe and sound. God bless the postal workers!!

The eagle has landed

2009-11-18T05:57:00.008+01:00

And so have we.

After a lo-o-o-ng flight, we finally touched down in Sydney at 9:58 pm on Monday 16 November and we were met by Donna - "Long time no see", was my weary comment. "Yeah, all of about 2 and a half weeks", she laughed.

We eventaully left Heathrow 2.5 hours after our scheduled departure time. All passengers were on board and the doors shut, then we sat at the gate past the departure time. After a short while, the captain came on the air and explained that there was some delay in finalising the loading of the cargo and that "we should be taxiing in about 10 minutes" which then became another 10 minutes and then another. He was pretty good about keeping us informed and explained that in an aircraft of this size, it was critical that the cargo was balanced correctly for maximum fuel efficiencies. He then proceeded to tell us a little about the plane we were travelling in.

It was the latest of the Qantas Airbus A380-800 planes with a capacity of 450 passengers (and today there was not a single seat vacant). Even in Economy, there is plenty of leg room and seat space - yes, I have lost some weight, but believe me, not that much! There is a really comprehensive entertainment system and the staff were very friendly. Anway, the delays continued and continued. One and a half hours after we were due to depart we finally pulled away from the gate. Honestly, I felt like cheering. We are taxiing towards the runway when we stop, presumably to wait our turn to turn onto the main runway. But no, again the Captain comes over the loudspeaker, "Sorry everyone, it appears that there is still a problem with the cargo loading and someone in dispatch is not happy. We have been told we have to return to the gate." There was a collective groan before the Captain continued "Don't worry guys, I am going to find the person responsible and march him up and down the aisles so you can all have a piece of him!" LOVE the Aussie humour!!

Well, we eventually took off TWO and a half hours after our scheduled departure time! Michael's mum said it made the news and my mum heard that it was late on the radio - guess there were a lot of people who were wanting to make sure we got home safe! LOL, actually makes a lot of sense when there are the family and friends of 450 people to try to let know! The staff were very apologetic and extra friendly. Tomazs from Poland was one of the staff assigned to our area and was really interested in where we had been in Poland and what we thought of his country. We were seated in Rows 61D and 61E and Marilyn and Alan from Norfolk in England were sitting next to us in 61F and 61G.

These new Airbus planes have a Skycam mounted high on the tail, enabling you to see everything that the pilot sees. It was fascinating and I could have watched it for the whole journey, except for the fact that it really wasn't too long and we were flying in to darkness and couldn't see a damn thing. But before darkness fell fully, we were flying over the big mountains of eastern central Europe and their cloud nursery was actively pumping out new clouds. This is one sight that we are going to miss. While there are clouds generated at lower levels in Australia, there is nothing so mystical as watching little wisps of nothingness billow and morph into white solid looking clouds. Then darkness is complete as we fly into the Asian continent. We fly over the Himalayan ranges but can't see a thing (other that the strobe lit that blinks monotonously atop the front cabin of the plane).

There are a whole range of movies showing as well as TV shows, documentaries and even audio books, as well as the obligatory games console, so there is no need to be bored. I watch The Taking of Pelham 123 (latest vesion, but could have also watched the original), The Proposal and A Bunch of Amateurs - nothing heavy and some REALITY TV shows - yeah, get over it - I love them! Michael is watching some ghouly horror thing that I can't stand - thankfully with our own earphones we can watch whatever our personal preferences like without impinging on any one else!

When we landed in Singapore we were able to get a close up look at the nose of the plane and we learned that this plane, the newest in the Qantas Airbus Fleet was named for Sir Fergus McMaster. Coming in to land in Singapore there were literally hundreds of ships in the harbour and the surrounding bays - so many more than we used to see off Newcastle when we thought that 40 ships was a lot! On and off we passed through rain clouds and I am amazed at how quickly the lens of the Skycam dries off.

At Singapore we all had to leave the plane, taking all our onboard luggage - goodness knows why, we were returning to the same seats on the same plane! So we all filed off, went down one corridor, through a set of doors into the terminal lounge and then turned left, passed through security and all sat in seats just outside the doors to the gangway straight back on to the plane! A distance of maybe 150 metres! We left Singapore at 11:45 am (4:45 am London time the next day my body is loudly telling me)

Captain Mike O'Neill again apologises for all the delays as we get underway again. The aircrew are now Australian and it is great to be under their control - Ryan (cheeky and young) and Maschiko are looking after us.

Finally arrived in Sydney at 9:58 pm +1 ( or 11:07 am London time). We are the only plane unloading at the moment and everything goes very smoothly (for once!) - I had been dreading finding out that our luggage had been off-loaded in London, not to be re-loaded. Anyway, heavy luggage collected and two trolleys filled with the two suitcases and all our carry on luggage and coats etc., we proceed through Immigration "HOW long were you away? Wow, what a fantastic trip it must have been!" and on to Customs.

We had goods to declare, but the process for moving through Customs is a little different to my last trip in 2006. There are a number of staff that you pass through that direct you down various lanes. They start to send me down one line and Michael down another, but our luggage is all intertwined so we just go down the one path together. Eventually we get to the final inspection point without ever needing to break stride.

The young lass questioned what we had in the drugs, timber (Babuschka dolls) foodstuffs (Belgian chocolate and nougat, and Italian Balsamic) and in-a-national-park (Plitvice NP in Croatia a few short weeks ago) categories that we had ticked the boxes for. We replied and then she just said "OK thanks, you're OK - just go through that door". Wow, that was easy! Next thing we know we are in the arms of Donna!

It takes a while to exchange our currency and then we walk over to where the ute is passed and load it - heavily! Chatting non-stop we drive out to Michael's mums at Greystanes where she is waiting up for us. Harvey Wallbangers are the go for a welcome home drink and some nibblies. Thank goodness she gave away the idea of having a fully cooked meal for us - at this hour we could not have eaten it for quids.

So we chatted for some and then Donna left for home. Netta, Michael and I sat up past 3 am just talking about all that has happened in the past year. Finally we crash. Michael has trouble sleeping, but ha ha, not me!!! And still the next day I had another nap while Michael and his Mum go in to Merrylands to do some shopping. We all sleep well on Tuesday night and by 9 pm Wednesday night, Michael is falling asleep on the phone talking to his brother. Think we have all caught up now.

So at the moment we are enjoying spending some time with Netta, arguing with internet providers who insist that we have to buy an unwanted and unnecessary USB modem to access wifi services (eastern Europe was easier) and looking for cars and me a job. Anyone got any leads? Please let me know!

We are catching up with a heap of Sydney based friends this week and then off to my mums in Newcastle on Sunday or Monday for a week before returning to Sydney for a few more days before we head north for home. So not long now guys - should be there around the 8th or 9th December. Don't know how much time I am going to have to blog, so see you when I do either here or in person!

Heading for home ........

2009-11-15T08:09:00.003+01:00

OK Australia - Get ready! HERE we come!
Our flight was booked with British Airways, but we are actually on a Qantas flight. That is quite prophetic don't you think! We depart Heathrow Airport near London at 11:05 am on Sunday 15 November and arrive in Sydney at 8:20 pm Monday 16 November (local times) with a refuelling stop in Singapore. And we are travelling on one of the new(ish) A380-800 Airbus planes.

Michael and I would like to take this opportunity to thank all the people who have made this trip so memorable for us. Whether you are employed by one of the accommodation houses we used, a staff member in a restaurant or just a local who spoke with us, you have all had a huge impact on us. It is definitely the people who have made this holiday such a wonderfully enriching life experience.

Of course there are plenty of amazing things we have seen and done that are memorable too - and you know what is exciting? We have had the telly on over the last few days and there are so many places we can say we have been to that we are seeing across a whole range of programs. Cool huh!

See you next in Sydney!

Does 60 into 4 go?

2009-11-14T08:56:00.013+01:00

Well, 60 is certainly divisible by 4, but I am wondering this morning when we get up, whether we can get our total luggage allowance of 60 kgs into 4 bags - 2 large suitcases, one on-board size suitcase and one packpack. We seem to have accumulated far more 'stuff' than we left with!

We have gathered a bit of other currency too and I will need to put this somewhere safe to exchange when we get back to Sydney. Better be careful though, last time I put something somewhere safe, I lost my little purse that I bought last time we were in Switzerland in 2006! Found it this morning! No point in exchanging the money here though as you lose on the double exchange between currencies (initially to pounds and then to Aussie $). In hand we have:
- 196 Chinese Yuan Renminbi
- 150 Czech Republic Koruny
- 120 Polish Zlotych
- 300 Croatian Kuna
- 650 British Pounds
Plus god knows how much more in loose change - that little bag is surely heavy! We will change the notes and the coinage can go to the airline's UNICEF collection bag when we complete our flights. Trouble is, that all the currency that we are changing does not really amount to a great deal!

We are packing one suitcase with the mid-season and winter clothes we have been wearing and also putting other things we won't need immediately in this one. The other ones will have the 'summer' clothes that we will need when we land in Sydney. And then is our bright little small carry on size suitcase that I bought to take to Paris when I met Helen, we will put a change of clothes (hmm memories of being in Atlanta, USA with none of our baggage and no 'smalls') and precious elements such as the cameras and my jewellery. We also have the laptop (my precious!) and a backpack with books etc. Gosh!

And I have just uploaded the last of the photos on to the external hard drive and on to DVDs - so I know exactly how many photos we took! In fact, there are a whole heap of statistics that are interesting:
- 21 countries (Britain, France, Belgium, Germany, United States, Spain, Portugal, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Switzerland, Austria, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Poland, Italy, Vatican City, Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, The Netherlands)
- 54,917.25 kilometres driven (doesn't include the side trip to the USA)
- 79,050 photos taken!
- countless new friends

Now, hows THAT for some numbers!

There was one last dinner to be had at the Premier Inn. And while the menu was the same there were still choices that we could try for the first time. This time it was
Entrees:
Drunken duck Pate - smooth pate enriched with sweet wine, truffles and Bramley apple jelly served with toasted rustic ciabatta and spiced onion marmalade (Michael)
Crispy seeded chicken strips served with Mandarin chili sauce (Maria)
Mains:
Smothered chicken - grilled chicken breast topped with crisp bacon, Cheddar and mozarella cheeses served with chips and seasonal vegetables and hickory sauce (Michael)
Rump Steak served with chips, garden peas, sauteed mushrooms and grilled fresh tomato(Maria)

We had goodbye calls to Steph and Felix and to Anna today which was lovely and we have phoned the mums to confirm our departure tomorrow. We are not phoning every Tom, Dick and Harry. Its time to go quietly!
So everything is finally in the bags - but we still have to get them on the scales and on to the plane though! We suspect we are somewhat over the weight allowance!!

Saying goodbye to the Vectra

2009-11-13T17:14:00.012+01:00

Over the past 12 months some of our most valuable aids have gained identities and personalities of their own. The Vauxhall Vectra that we bought last December when we first arrived in London however, is not one of them. Not sure why.

However, without it, this would have been a very very different trip. When we bought the car we could have had bought something a little cheaper, but this car really appealed. It had very low mileage for a car that was 6 years old at 53,185 miles. It was smart enough not to attract the attention of police as a dud, but was not so new looking that it would attract car thiefs. It was sound and had a full service record and some remaining road tax and registration, AND most importantly, it was available straight away.

And at £1,700 it was far far cheaper that renting a car for a year or even with the cost of fuel factored in, probably cheaper still for the two of us on public transport. And the biggest advantage - it gave us our freedom to go where we wanted, when we wanted and via the route we wanted. None of this being tied to scheduled routes or timetables. So we were able to wander the countrysides on the back roads, the mountain roads, the forest roads and the hugging the coast roads. What a trip!!

Today was a very special day back in Germany too. Felix was doing his thesis dissertation presentation to his University professors and anyone else that wanted to attend. We phoned him last night to wish him luck - hope Steph wasn't put out that we didn't talk to her! We are sure that he did well, you don't get that far into a Doctorate and then bum out!

(Michael here) So, today is the day to reconnoitre in search of a buyer for our car - in particular, a dealer. We would have prefered a private buyer, however, none were not forthcoming and time is at a premium. Maria searches the net for local dealerships around the Twickenham and Hayes areas. With this information, MOT and Road Tax documentation I set forth upon the quest for a buyer.

Times must be grim for the motor industry here in England, as the first two dealers weren't interested or not buying at present - "Business is fairly slow." At least the first dealer I approached had provided me with a possible lead located at Hounslow. My second target advised me that their 'valuer' would not be available until 2pm. I then ventured onto my third prospect, with a view to returning to my second prospect should this next visit prove fruitless.

In retrospect, we have been told on a couple of occasions the make of our particular vehicle are well sought after? Times must indeed be tough.... However, undaunted, I proceeded onto Hounslow (it wasn't quite 2pm at that time) towards the next prospect. I arrived, introduced myself and spruiked the vehicle's assets and then waited...waited...waited...until the assessor viewed our car. With a smile on my face, as the assessor delivered his negative response, I exited the building. I must add here, unless you've had the pleasure of negotiating British streets - it's understandable that a route of 20kms should be such a protracted exercise - particularly in the rain.

Retracing my earlier route I returned to the second prospect just after 2pm. Our vehicle was quietly assessed by the valuer: engine bay; boot; interior; exterior; tyres (including spare). He made an offer which was substantially below our purchase price; however, time is at a premium, Sunday we fly out for Oz and the car HAS to be disposed of. The dealership was going to run checks on the vehicles ensuring it is bonafide, and I was requested to phone the following morning at 10am.

Returned to the hotel, and Maria advises me that the dealer phoned and will purchase the Vectra and for me to return tomorrow at 11am!

(Me again) And so I have started to try to consolidate half a hotel room into the two suitcases and our hand luggage. Wasn't too long before it rolled around to dinner time, so back downstairs we venture. Same menu as last night, but different choices -
Entrees:
Garlic flatbread with cheese (Michael)
Baked potato skins with bacon, spring onion, melted Cheddar and mozzarella cheeses, served with sour cream and chive dip (Maria)
Mains:
Chicken Makhani curry - Chicken breast marinated with yoghurt and spices in tomato and cream curry sauce served with basmati rice and naan bread (Michael)
Smothered chicken - Grilled chicken breast topped with crispy bacon, Cheddar and mozzarella cheeses served with your choice of potato, fresh seasonal vegetables and Hickory sauce (Maria)

Penultimum - almost there

2009-11-12T18:29:00.010+01:00

Gosh. Everything is galloping along now. Its time to leave Wingham and head for the City. While we enjoy the buzz of being in large cities, it is the smaller towns that we prefer. This actually stands us in good stead for our return to our home in Maryborough. For those who are not local to us, we live in a regional city on the sourthern central coast of Queensland with a population of around 28,000 people.

It is a vibrant City that I am getting more and more excited about returning to and seeing through different eyes. For the visitor, there is so much to see, and for the resident, there is so much to get involved with - it is one of the most connected and caring places I have known. And it is just such a nice place with a balance of great history and modern conveniences!

Anyway, we are not there yet, but getting closer! Our room at The Dog Inn has been amazing. But if we thought ours was good, the four poster room next door that we see as we are about to leave is even grander (but it only has a bath, no shower, so no good for me ). Built in the 13th century this building has been adapted to encompass all the modern conveniences so that the rooms are all comfortable to be in whether they are one of the eight rooms or the public areas. We finally leave Wingham after saying farewell to Austin and Tim (it's Dan's day off - bugger).

Passing through rural southern England we pass one of the warning beacons that were established throughout much of England as a warning mechanism at the time of the Spanish Armada threat in the 16th century. We have set Kate to the 'avoid motorways' options so that we can spend our last little bit travelling through the countryside. We pass through the Herne area and see a second windmill for the day, but this one is close enough for us to pause for a few moments and have a look - only from the outside though as it is only open to the public for a couple of hours on Sundays in the summer! Ah well, an outside look will just have to do.

Little do we know that indeed from here all roads lead to London and that as we go en-route to Heathrow where we are staying for the last three days, we pass one street away from where we started this epic journey in December last year in Earls Court!

The travelling is very slow as we crawl through the outer inner suburbs of London as we head for the M4 and another section of the great ring road that takes traffic around the outskirts of this great city.

We have yet to finalise the packing and when we empty the car for the last time on our arrival at the Premier Inn Heathrow, I look at all our 'stuff' (and that does not inclide the 40 kgs we posted home from Germany last week) I wonder how in the hell are we going to fit it all in!

The Premier Inn is one of the Accor chain of hotels and is one of the closest to Heathrow. Sitting just on the other side of the M4 motorway, there is a connecting shuttle service to Terminal 3 where we will leave from on Sunday morning. They also offer a combinaton package for accommodation and meals and we have booked 3 nights. The last thing that we need to do now is sell the car . . . (after giving it a very good clean first!)

Dinner is from a restricted menu that is still extensive enough to offer choice. And as the restaraunt is run by Indians I reckon the curry just might be a good choice! From the menu we choose:
Entrees:
Soup of the day (White onion and Blue Cheese) served with warm rustic ciabatta bread (Michael)
Crispy seeded chicken strips served with Mandarin chilli sauce (Maria)
Mains:
Sausage and mash - Premium pork sausages and mashed potato served with garden peas and caramelised onion gravy (Michael)
Chicken Makhani curry - Chicken breast marinated with yoghurt and spices in tomato and cream curry sauce served with basmati rice and naan bread (Maria)
Michael opted for Profiteroles filled with whipped cream and drizzled with chocolate flavour fudge sauce for dessert while I had a second glass of Pinto Grigio! Cheers

Canterbury Tales and family connected

2009-11-11T02:10:00.021+01:00

The morning sunshine heralds a beautiful day ahead - well, at least for the next two hours. We amble downstairs for breakfast where we are greeted by Tim...ah, he is the relief Chef. Austin has today off and after the incredible dinners he has prepared for us, we forgive his absence. However, Tim prepares our hot breakfasts, presenting me with two gloriously poached eggs and Michael a hearty 'full English'!

With breakfast out of the way, we make our way onto the main street to watch the scheduled Rememberence Day March prior to the service. And I stress here the march and service were scheduled. It's 10:35 so I make my way to the church, while Michael heads down to the High Street in readiness for the march. I wait and wait at the church, 10:40 has passed when the march was to commence - but, there are no sounds of a band or presence of the local Constabulary. Anyhow, Michael returns just as perplexed stating that "there's nobody around for the parade?". It is somewhat of a mystery as Michael had asked at the post office earlier about details of the parade, and was told the ceremony was to commence at 10:40.... Anyhow, we entered the church and paid our respects to the fallen in our own quiet way.

We admire the church's architecture and fixtures. It is indeed a wonder at the history of many of Englands' houses of worship, and here at St Mary the Virgin is no exception. There is a list of all the Vicars, Rectors and Provosts who have ministered at this church from 1228 to the present. Within the churchs' eastern transept is a monument commemorating a family of note - the Oxinden's - the monument was erected in 1682! And in the true spirit of christianity, the Anglican Parish shares its church with the local Catholics who celebrate Mass here each Sunday.

Time is marching on so we return to the Dog Inn to get the car and head for Canterbury. Now, the Dog Inn is one of two once identical buildings that stand side by side on the road from Wingham to Canterbury - and they date back to 1286! By this time the clear skies become shrouded by clouds, and no sooner are we on our way it is evident that rain is imminent. Canterbury is only seven miles (11 kms) from Wingham and we travel along the narrow roads which ribbon through the countryside.

Arriving at Canterbury our first stop is at the ruins of Canterbury Castle, and although the rain has begun to drizzle, this does not stop us from exploring this celebrated monument. After the Battle of Hastings in 1066, William the Conqueror marched hastily through Kent to Canterbury. In October 1066, Canterbury was the first town to submit without resistence. To consolidate his power, William ordered the construction of royal castles at Dover, Canterbury and Rochester. These castles were initially built from timber upon the 'motte-and-bailey' configuration and only much later the castles were rebuilt in stone.

All that remains of the castle today is a section of the perimeter wall and the keep. However, in the 'minds-eye', one can visualise the enormity of the structure. Eventually rebuilt with three storeys and enclosed within a bastion wall, the importance of the castle diminished by becoming overshadowed by Henry II's larger fortification at Dover. Regrettably, Canterbury Castle was relegated as the a prison for the County of Kent administered by the Sheriff and in the most recent times lost a lot of its mystique when it was used as a coal store and gas works.

The rain has begun to fall in earnest, I return to the car and leave Michael to continue drooling for a while longer. Want to kow more? Click here.

When Michael finally returns, we leave the castle to find a carpark closer to the Canterbury Cathedral. After wanting me to drive through restricted areas, and us having to continually turn back, Kate and Frances eventually guide us to an available parking bay at the city walls, which is not far from the Cathedral. Feeding the ticket dispenser gives us a maximum stay of three hours and so we set off to see what we can see. Walking through the streets of Canterbury is like entering a time portal, with buildings dating from the 13th century occupied by artists, artisans and bakers displaying their wares in shop windows. Michael is enjoying the ambience as he is swept along by the imagery of his beloved Canterbury Tales.

Finally we arrive at the Cathedral precinct, and enter the precint's main portal at a cost of $13AUD each. However, the entry fee is worth every cent as the Cathedral is indeed a magnificent structure. I'll let Michael take over from here, so he can enlighten you...or put you to sleep?

I am just passionate over medieval architecture, in particular places of worship - moreso if the style is Gothic, Perpendicular Gothic or Gothic/Renaissance. At the danger of me rambling, may I recommend this link for the Canterbury Cathedral.

As with most of these monuments built before the Reformation, one has to remember that the pioneering architects/engineers designed the buildings on parchment and only aided by quadrants, line-of-sight and plum bobs! The work of the masons, sculptors, scriveners and carpenters who contributed to the Cathedrals' construction is truly mind-blowing.

The Cathedral was filled by visitors and a small company of proud volunteer guides who were most eager to answer, with enthusiasm, any question pertinent to their Cathedral. I soon discovered the knowledge which these guides possess, when I made enquiry as to one of the stained glass windows. Only several of these windows are original from the 12th century, which somehow were spared from the destructive force of the Reformation!

Fortunately, photography was permitted ( except when visiting the crypt) so the camera worked overtime snapping images of the exterior and interior. The Cathedral also boasts its own 'Compass Rose' installed into the floor of the central nave in 1988. As with most Cathedrals, at intervals throughout the day a benediction is given by a member of the clergy. Today was no exception, as a Friar (with the aid of a PA system) requested everyone to stop and listen to the benediction - a time for reflection whatever ones persuasion...yes, even for us non-believers.

We could have spent further hours here - it is such a fascinating place. It was here that Thomas Beckett was murdered, and that the first French Hugenot service was held here hundreds of years ago and continues to this day! There are amazing stained glass windows, a beautiful cloister and chapter house, a peaceful crypt where you can see the remaining pillars and wall of the Norman church that once stood on this site and dates back to 579 AD. There are tanglible links with Australia too in the form of stitched kneelers int he front row and a memorial to Lt. Col Sir George Gipps, Governor in Chief of New South Wales. And today, on Rememberence Day when we were reading in The Times this morning about the release of the records of the British Flying Aces including Major Edward Mannock VC, here we are standing in front of his memorial! Its a small, small world.

Gosh, and there was so much more - you had better check the link before I too carried away! From here you exit through the souvenir shop where we stop to buy a few small reminders - we have to be careful because we are getting very very close to our weight limits for the air trip home!

Michael wants a quick look at the City Walls so I return to the car while he makes a dash for the stairs. The walls are surprisingly intact, and yet are now a part of the modern city. Traffic enters through a number of the original gates, the Dane John gardens dating back to the 12th century and has existed in their present form since 1790 and have recently been updated to include a thematic chidren's maze. A monument now stands atop a Roman burial ground that existed before the construction of the city walls in the 3rd century and now serves as a vantage point for views across the city.

I pack away the souvenirs we bought and get some little treasures out for Anna and Gary then get in the car and programme Kate. And that is when I see a traffic warden making his way towards our car, checking wether parking tickets have expired - and in response Michael is running full pelt from the other direction. Michael manages to get here first. Just! Mind you, we still had 1 minute left on our ticket!

Its 4 pm and fast heading for dark when we leave Canterbury for Bracknell to have one last visit with Anna and Garry, Curtis and Nathan. Its a two hour drive on the M26 - one of the major ring roads around London. Traffic is heavy as we are just coming in to rush hour, but for the most part we are able to do a respectable 70 miles per hour. I have reset Kate to measure in miles - can't be bothered with all the constant calculations from km to miles and back again. Feels odd though and my perception of distance is not so good - luckily for me, 100 yards is close enough to 100 metres and I can judge that pretty well!

We arrive at their house in Binfield just after 6:15. There is great excitement all round - Anna has kept her job (when all 6000 were given notices re planned redundencies for 1500 and no assurances), they have sold their house to a cash buyer and their offer on the house of their dreams just up the road has been accepted - all in the space of about 3 days! We took the champers!! Gary has picked up McDonalds for the boys and once they are settled upstairs, we order Chinese and spend a couple of hours sharing it and the stories of our respective highs since we last saw them in June. It has been lovely sharing a bit of time with them this year. Its heading for 10 pm when we finally say our goodbyes for the year and head off.

Our trip back to Wingham is much quieter than the trip over. We are able to travel at a constant speed and make the trip in about an hour and a half - even if it is in and out of light rain!

Ickham not Wickham!

2009-11-10T02:05:00.021+01:00

all the leaves are brown
and the sky is grey
I've been for a walk
on an autumn day
Yes, California dreaming is playing on the local radio station - very fittingly! There is nothing so miserable as when it is 4:30 pm in the afternoon and totally dark with all the street lights on.

After a lazy morning we set out from Wingham for a bit of a drive around the area. And it really is no coincidence that we are staying here - there is a Wingham in the Taree area on the central north coast of New South Wales - so we came to see if there was any resemblence. And you know, there is - lots of cattle and rolling hills! And they are of a like size.

First stop is the small village of Ickham that is a mere 2.5 kms away by road, but a million miles away in terms of how different it is. Wingham is located right on the very busy Canterbury Road, while Ickham is caught in some time warp on a small back road. Just outside town we pass fields that are being beseiged by geese - lots of geese, hundreds of geese - and as Michael gets out to take photos, their brief reprieve on the ground from the journey south for the winter is interrupted as the take flight again.

From here we turn towards the north coast of this part of the UK towards Sheerness and the Isle of Sheppey. As we travel along we see signs to the Spitfire Museum at Manston and would you believe Michael's luck - our route takes us right past it. Go past? Never! So off he goes and I pick up my book.

"Fighter trail etched white on blue,
Bomber Captain, Seaplane Crew.
Like gods, these men, though wrought as we,
Are brushed with immortality.
Their youth not lost to as years go by,
But grandly, in a moment souring high,
Through conquered sky."
- Harold Balfour

With it's memorial garden overlooking the Manston aerodome and the singular bronze statue of an RAF pilot, the museum is more of a memorial to Airforce personnel of all nationalities. However, on entering the building you get the distinct impression it's dedicated to the Supermarine Spitfire and the Hawker Hurricane and the respective crews.

The museum is quite small but full of memorabilia, including a restored Spitfire XVI and a Hurricane II and displays of ordinance carried by both aircraft. There is an impressive array of uniforms belonging to aircrew and which have been donated to the museum. A selection of aviation art is also displayed which mainly concentrate on the Battle of Britain. Whether a visitor has any interest in aviation is immaterial, this is a memorial and museum which has been tastefully designed.

So from Manston we follow the coast around to Herne Bay. This historic town is on the southern estuary of the Thames River as it empties in to the North Sea. Known for its old pier and it's impressive clock tower there is also a solitary statue of a Coast Guard statue patiently and vigilantly out to sea - making sure that all are safe, and ready to jump into action if anything goes awry out to sea.

We are still not at Sheerness despite it only being 60 kilometres from Herne Bay. You see we are averaging about 30 kph! Where there are not small towns end to end, there is farming land - marshy land that now supports sheep grazing. And there is only one narrow road that goes right through this area. And time after time we find ourselves in a bottleneck of traffic as we come up to temporary traffic lights around roadworks. It is well dark now, and not quite 4:30 in the afternoon! There is no point going any further so we make the decision to turn back for Wingham. All in all, the last couple of hours has been frustrating to say the least. And as if to add insult to injury, we hear regular traffic updates on the local radio that seems to put us in the very middle of the jams! Wait? Is that them in the car behind us??? Could be as we pass just in front of the landmarks they name time and again!!

We eventually get back to the Dog Inn and a well awaited Cider. Austin our chef has promised us Steak and Ale Pies for dinner even though they are not on his menu for the night. That menu has surprised us a little. While it is always great to find great food in the most unexpected of places, we really did not expect to find a chef of his calibre in a small town miles from where the major restaurants lie. He explains that not only is he the chef for the restaurant here, he is also head chef for the group of hotels owned by the owners. And although we are really looking forward to our pies, when the waitress gives us the menus to choose entrees, we groan at the other choices we might have had. (Pardon the shadows on the menus please)

Still, we had asked for the pies and we are looking forward to them. For our entrees tonight we decide on:
Pan fried tiger prawns, chorizo and plum tomato (Michael)
Homemade lemon and coriander fishcakes, garlic tartar (Maria)
Our mains were those amazing pies - heavy with succulent chunks of tender beef in a deliciously rich ale based gravy and topped with the cleanest, crispest shortcrust pastry - mmmm
"Dessert menu?" she asked. "Oh yes please" was Michael's reply (even though we probably didn't need it!)
Plum Clafoutis with raspberry coulis and the ripest red strawberries (Michael)
Warm apple, sultana and calvados pancake with creme anglais (Maria)

Ah the day has been redeemed! Onya Austin!!!

The weather matches our mood

2009-11-09T00:55:00.011+01:00

Leaves swirl up and around us as we drive down the road from Ypres and as we pass under the trees, they continue to drop on to the windscreen. A full European autumn is an amazing experience. Again, it is raining, reflecting our emotions. My how our senses are heightened today. We have become used to the idea of going home, but gosh, how I wish we had more time here. Our last little time as we leave Belgium is spent letting Michael have a quick look around the New Poperinge Military Cemetery where there are a few Australian tombs scattered amongst the French ones.

Then, without the need for a real rush, we set Kate to direct us to the Eurotunnel departure point off the motorways and are so rewarded for doing so. There are cows grazing in the meadows and windmills on the hills - quite a few of them! We pass through the autumn rain and look out over valleys shining in rare spots of sunshine. The air is so crisp and clean and the colours are so vibrant.

We come in to France for the last time this trip and it is as beautiful as we remember it from the numerous trips we have made across the country over the last eleven months. The villages seem to be hugging the roads as though to say goodbye - yep, we are again passing those houses built right to the edge of the roads. Autumn here is a very busy place here and we pass lots of mounds of swedes (yellow turnips) and sweet potatoes recently dug and now set for drying. And the farmers are busy ploughing and fertilizing their fields. You know everywhere we have been there are a few constants - the smell of 'fresh' fertilizer, the heavy density of livestock and the farm implements pulled along the back roads by tractors!

All too soon (but not too soon) we arrive at Calais at the Eurotunnel terminal. As we pull up to the ticket tag machine it 'recognises' the registration number of the car and automatically prints our windscreen tag. We just have enough time (6 minutes) before they make the first boarding call to allow Michael to go and change our last Euros for UK pounds. Then, through border control and we join the first couple of cars waiting to be loaded on to the train. And then, just after 13:00 pm we are loaded on to the train and at 13:20 pm we leave the continent of Europe for the last time in 2009 for the fast half hour journey under the weight of the English Channel back to the UK.

And then without any fanfare (just a voiceless reminder on the intercom to remember to turn our clocks back an hour and to drive on the left) we are back in England - back on the 'right' or rather make that the correct side of the road! We are back in the land of small roads again - passing cars so closely on the local main roads that I wonder if we are not going to lose our side mirror.

We have decided to spend a couple of days in the south east of England having a bit of a look around the only part of England that we did not see when we were here earlier in the year. We have booked in to The Dog Inn in Wingham, near Canterbury. The building dates back to the early 13th century and our room on the first floor is supported by the most amazing big beam. The public areas downstairs are warm and the fireplaces are roaring away, keeping the cold outdoors where it belongs. The ceilings are lined with hops, now dried after hanging there for a year. This is no so much a pub, as a restaurant with rooms. We meet Dan behind the bar and Austin in the kitchen. Something that Austin is cooking smells fabulous and wse go to the kitchen door to find out what it is - ah, rabbit for a dish for tomorrow.

So we go up to take our luggage and unpack the barest of things as we have become accustomed to doing before heading back downstairs for dinner. The menu is surprisingly well developed with traditional foods presented in very modern combinations - something we are not expecting. After agonising on the offerings we choose -
Entrees:
Sherry's duck egg crostini with a poached egg, wilted spinach, curry oil (Michael)
Rillette of wild rabbit and smoked bacon, sweet plum tomato chutney, walnut bread toast (Maria)
Mains:
'The Carpet Bag' Roast fillet of beef stuffed with oysters, streaky bacon waist coat, grill garnish, bearnaise sauce and chis (Michael)
Breast of free range chicken, crispy parma ham, white pudding, cream tarragon dressing (Maria)
Desserts:
Sticky toffee pudding and vanilla seed cream (Michael)
Dark chocolate loaf, black cherries in kirsch (Maria)

Wow, what a meal. Congratulations to Austin who has managed to achieve the same level of finesse that we have experienced in meakls in France. We retire satisfyingly full to retire to our warm bed for the night.

Beautiful places and memorial events

2009-11-08T01:45:00.024+01:00

It dawns the perfect day for sightseeing. Cool (real cold) and crisp with that beautiful autumn sunlight that so seems to complement absolutely everything you look at. We join the other guests for breakfast where Francine is in control of everything and looking like she has just stepped out of a morning tea - complete with beautiful heeled shoes and a lovely set of pearls. Nothing flusters her and she exudes serenity. Nice. As was breakfast. Good selection of breads and pastries, cold meats and cheese, fresh eggs for boiling just to your liking.

On checking out, they tell us we can leave the car there all day if we want to, but given that we want to start with Beguinage and the Minnewater area that is also known as 'the Lake of Love', we take the car to get over to there. Brugge was cursed after a massacre to keep the 'long necks' (swans) for all time and this area is where they are found. It is a very romantic area of Brugge - greenery, water and houses combine, pretty in a way that has inspired painters of times immortal.

Beguinages had their origins as places founded something aside from a convent where women lived, not taking vows, but following religious percepts and earning a living in Bruges with looms. When the last of the Benguines died a community of Benedictine nuns was established here. The homes of these people exist in the open community as a place of peace and tranquility and despite the large numbers of visitors wandering, there is little noise to disturb the calm. After strolling through this beautiful place, and stopping to visit the church that is dedicated to St Elizabeth of Hungary, we head back into the city centre to expand on out quick visit late yesterday.

Bruges is known as the 'Venice of the North' because of its canal system. And along with the canals come boat cruises that burn up and down the waterways (not like the sedate gondolas) and waterside dining spots. And with canals you get...? Bridges of course and this is where the name Bruges is founded.

Frances eventually finds us a parking spot near the Church of Our Lady. We are amazed at the number of people that are here in Bruges today. Being a Sunday it is also surprising to see almost all the shops open for trade. We have just come from Germany where nothing except some of the petrol stations are open on Sundays. And yes, every second shop is a chocolate shop - truly. I spy a hat shop and being Michael's birthday, we go in to find something special. And we do. His own Deer Stalker hat! (think Sherlock Holmes and you can picture it!) Looks pretty good in it too - don't you think!!!

So, a beaming husband in his new hat by my side, we head for the Church of Our Lady. Now, Bruges has a huge number of churches - seven are know to be monumental and often are on visitor itineraries. The Church of Our Lady is known for two things:
Firstly it is home to the Madonna with Child carved in Carrera marble by a young Michelangelo and secondly as a repository for many other works of art throughout the church and in its museum. But this church is really so much more - it is a church of people (their words) and there are many opportunities for you to participate in the life of this community - least of all, the invitation to write prayers and thanks on sheets of paper and post them into a keeper which is opened each week and read out at the end of Mass.

The church itself is quite austere although the altars are baroque. The tall windows in the body of the church are not lead-lighted and so light floods the building. A community member welcomes you at the door, music fills the space with the echoes soaring to the roof. At the end of the first aisle sitting within a marble altar is the beautiful work by a young Michelangelo 'Madonna and Child'.

The museum within the church is an array of jaw-dropping art. However, it is tastefully arranged so as not to diminish the aura of the structure from being a house of worship. To appreciate the collection, one has to be there to experience this wonder. Albeit, the museum is confined within the apse and presbytery of the church. The confessionals are beautifully carved walnut depicting various saints, as is the choir. There are original works of art which adorn the walls, and in particular is Gerard David's triptych 'The Transfigeration of Christ' (ca. 1520). There is so much I can regale, however space is a premium so I suggest you follow this li nk.

Back outside we join the ever growing number of people who are cruising the streets. Ah yes, Bruges on a Sunday sure is jumping. Down small back streets, up narrow lanes. You turn a corner and there you see yet another Madonna. The patron saint of Bruges is everywhere - including a new take in a window of a pub. Many of the churches are now closed as they have finished with their Sunday services, so we just admire them from the outside. And now it is time to return to the Markt and HOT CHOCOLATE - mmmmm. Yep, it is cool and getting cooler as we walk in the shadows of the buildings. Everyone is well rugged and girls you should see the fancy and sometimes beautiful scarves that people here are wearing. Again, guided by the locals, we find a cafe to sample some traditional Belgian luxuries - hot chocolate and fresh Belgain waffles (with bananas and chocolate). Yu-um. Michael however is hungrier and opts for a snack of spaghetti carbonara.

The Markt square is impressive. At the ground level it is dominated by the monument to Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck who led the revolt in 1302 to rid the city of the French. But it is the imposing Cloth Hall and Belfry that really dominates the square. At 88 meters high, and including a carillion of 47 bells this is one truly beautiful edifice. And like with all the other towering structures that we have seen, Michael soon makes it his business to climb up the 388 steps to get a view of the city from on high. There is a museum within the Tower that has been used like most of these across Europe, to house the important records of the City.

It may have not been the highest tower I have climbed, but it would be one of the most interesting. To scale the interior one has to negotiate three levels of stairs: lower and middle spiral stairs built in masonry, and the belfry is reached by sections of wooden staircases. The centre section of the tower contains a 'vault' which originally was the city's repository for records and funds. The repository contains two original strong boxes, with one ensconced behind an iron latticed 'curtain'. Before arriving at the belfry, one reaches the musical 'tracker bar' (not too dissimilar to a pianiola roll, but much greater in size) providing the notes for the carillon. Finally, the belfry is reached and the views of Brugge (and the bells) are quite spectacular. As I was admiring the view, the carillon began to 'chime' - a deafening sound muted to an enjoyable interlude by inserting one's fingers in the ears!

Then its around to the next square that houses even more impressive buildings - the Town Hall, the Basillica of the Holy Blood, the Court's Office and the Provost's house. All impressive, all ornate and grand and all filled with sightseers! As I said, the place to be on a cool but clear Sunday afternoon is Bruges!

We finally returned to the car and turned for Ypres (Ieper) where as a special treat for Michael on his birthday we are going to the Last Post Service at the Menin Gate tonight. We check in to the Ambrosia Hotel in the drizzle. Owner Vincent makes us very welcome and suggests a restaurant for dinner. I won't name it because for us it certainly did not live up to the recommendation - the food was average and the service deplorable.

Anyway, before we went to dinner we started at the Menin Gate where The Last Post Ceremony has been conducted every night (except for the German occupation between 1940 and 1944 when it was held in Surrey) rain hail or shine as the Belgians honour those who freed them in WWI. There are a large crowd of people present packed within the arches of the gate and spilling out onto the surrounding street. Just before 8 pm the local police arrive to effect the road closure and the buglers of the volunteer Fire Brigade and a piper arrive. At the dot of 8, a hush falls and the mournful sound starts. There is a contingent of Adult Scouters from the UK here, all stand at stiff attention, one with tears coursing down his face, and the British flag rests on the ground. You could have heard a pin drop if it weren't for the 3 bus loads of young English high school students. Honestly, they are too young to fully comprehend or appreciate what they are witness to. Still, after the Last Post, the laying of the wreaths and the Reveille are played, they quickly find somewhere else to be, leaving this special place to those with memories or respects to pay to linger a while . . . And Michael places the last of our Australian flags at the Diggers memorial at gthe eastern flank of the Gate. It is a most modest memorial with a collection of wooden crosses left by silent pilgrims.

After a little while we go back into the centre to have dinner and then return to the hotel and a warm and welcoming bed - it is now only 2°C!

Heading west and north to the cold.

2009-11-07T01:03:00.015+01:00

The Art Fabrik (factory) & Hotel serves a buffet breakfast that is the most expensive we have encountered for ages. At €12 per person we contemplate whether we should go out for brekky but in the end give in and go down to the cafe area where it is served - down in the funky lift. We need not have worried - the spread is amazing with hot and cold foods - meatballs, a couple of different types of sausages, scrambled, fried and boiled eggs, salad ingredients, cereals, yoghurts and additives such as fruit and nuts, cold meats and cheeses, a variety of rolls and breads and pastries and some of the best fruit juices and coffee that we have had for yonks. We eat our fill knowing that we won't have to worry about lunch today!

Although it has been wet through the night, there is just a spattering of rain as we prepare to leave. We marvel at the growing mounds of leaves that autumn brings and while we will miss it back in the hot Australian summer, I can't help but think how much work it must create for the local councils. At least they would have plenty of mulch materials!

And so we hit the road again. There is a cable car like no other here in Wuppertal - it hangs beneath the track. The hotel reception staff tell us that it is a great way to see the city. When asked the duration of a round trip they reply that it is about an hour. Too long for us today - especially in this weather. We have another longish drive and if it continues to rain, I don't want to hurry. Once we are clear of the city and back on the motorway, my fears are realised when the rain continues on and off.

The weather is cold and quite bleak. The trees look naked without their leaf cover, and yet, grown as they are in long lines or clumps, they appear to be huddled together against the ravages of wind and rain. Today we pass through the Netherlands again - just passing through, clearing the outskirts of Venlo and then Eindhoven and noticing again the gothic architecture that is so abundant throughout this part of Europe.

And still the rain comes, although along with the wet, it is a little warmer thankfully - gee we actually get to 8°C! Yes, I know that its not hot, but believe me the difference between 4°C and 8°C is heaps when it is wet and windy! I was hoping that I could leave all the really warm clothes packed for now, but I should have known better! And as we continue to head north before we head home, odds are that it will get colder yet - bring on the Australian summer - I think. (Probably won't be Saying that once we are back in it in the coming weeks!!)

We only travel across the very south of The Netherlands for a total of about 80 kms before we are in to Belgium. Just before we cross that border, we pull in for fuel. At the bowser alongside us, there is a fellow in a van with Lithuanian registration plates on it. Like many other Eastern European drivers, he is towing an unregistered car. I think that they come to the west, buy the older, cheaper second hand cars and then sell them at a nice little profit back home - lord knows, we have seen enough of them! The state of his bullet-holed van leaves us wondering whether he has pushed his luck just once too often. He had better be careful with this one then!

We push on, needing to travel across most of Belgium. When deciding our route back to London for flights home, I had asked Michael whether he had any preferences. He said that he would like to return to Ypres to hear the The Last Post Ceremony at the Menin Gate in Ieper, so I have arranged our route to give him this little joy on his birthday!

Other than that, he had no preference and I did. I really want to see Bruges. It has a fascinating history and is often known as the Venice of the North given its canal system. There are very heavy planning requirements for all buildings new and old in the historic old city centre that means it retains to today much of the same architecture and certainly a uniformity of look, as it first did in its glory days that date from the 12th century. So we travel towards Bruges, calling in briefly at the small town of Damme on the way through. This pretty town sits on the bank of the River Reie that has now been canalled. It is known for its well preserved windmill and has a very handsome City Hall as well as numerous bookshops and coffee houses.

Now, as we all know, one of the best things produced in Belgium is CHOCOLATE. And when we first arrive in Bruges, before we go around to our hotel for the night, we drive in to the old city and take a walk around. Every second shop is a chocolate shop! And while prices are competitive, the chain shops are the dearest! We stop. We look. We smell. We sample. And of course, we buy! No wonder there are so many cows in Belgium (but what is it with all the beef cattle?) And another thing that Belgium is famous for is lace and lace products. Those who know me know that I love fine lacework. We walk past a few very commercialised shops that seem to specialise in mass-produced items and its only when I find one of the smaller shops that we venture in. I get a beautiful tray cloth that is hand-worked. The owner spends quite a bit of time chatting to us and explaining the differences in the various lace pieces she has for sale. Gosh, I could go bananas in this shop for sure! (Got to remember, this is just stuff!)

Its now after 5 pm, dark and getting colder by the minute, so its time to head over to our accommodation for the night - the Golden Tree Hotel. Plenty of time tomorrow to explore Bruges in more detail. We are the last car in to the car park and there is only one spot left that will park in another car. No fear, it belongs to the family running the hotel and they say to park here. When we walk into the room, it is very warm thankfully and it takes most of the evening for us to realise that there is under-floor heating, so I turn the radiators down.

When asked for a recommendation for dinner, Francine at the Golden Tree Hotel warns us against eating near the Markt Square - over-priced and poor quality food she says. She can recommend a local restaurant called Carte Blanche. Michael takes a walk and gets the last table reservation! It's not a large restaurant, but is quite obviously popular with locals as well as visitors and from the greetings between some of the patrons and the owner, it has many regulars.

Owner Kieran and his staff run a tight little ship here and as we are sitting in front of the open kitchen, we get a first hand look at just how productive a very small space can be. The menu is large enough to offer a good range of foods, but small enough for them to manage well. The theme is 'Authentic Flemish specialities with a contemporary twist'. We agonised over having to make choices yet again and finally decided on:
Entrees:
Bloedworst met compote Granny Smith (Blood sausage with Granny Smith compote) Michael
Kaaskroketten (Cheese Croquettes) Maria
Mains:
Rundvlees stoofpot in bruin bier met chips handgesneden en een salade (Beef stew in brown ale with hand cut chips and a salad) Michael
Varkensvlees Stew in Cherry Bier met chips handgesneden en een salade (Pork Stew in Cherry Beer with hand cut chips and a salad) Maria
Desserts:
Rijstebrij met bruine suiker (Rice pudding with brown sugar) Michael
Crème brûlée - Maria

The food was fabulous and had us making comparisons with the French food we haved eaten. At the end of our meal we chat some with Kieran and he shows us a photo of his 'very cool dude' new son Maddox at 4 months old with dad's sunglasses on! Very cute!

Water water everywhere! A day of contrasts.

2009-11-06T01:01:00.014+01:00

The Wasserstrassenkruez or Water Bridge just outside Madgeburg in Germany sent the email world into hoax spins a few years ago when people queried the legitimacey of the photos that were being circulated. But now, as then, this is very definitely a real resource.

It compares with the Falkirk Wheel that we saw earlier this year in Scotland in terms of ingenuity and actually performs almost the same function - well, they both serve to minimise the number of locks on their water courses and to transport ships and boats far more cost effectively than the alternatives! We had been through here once before in August (on our way to Paris to collect Helen) and although we could see it above us, we were obviously in the wrong spot as we could not find our way through the huge fence. With directions from the staff at the Hotel Sachsen Anault though we find it easily from Barleben near Madgeburg. As we drive towards the River Elbe on the motorway we can see the canal (although it doesn't really look any different to another bridge of sorts) from afar.

We begin our look at this engineering marvel at the lock system that allows boats to enter and leave the canal. As the height of the canal is much higher than the previous waters, a complex system of holding ponds was created so that the water would not need to be taken from a diminshing source. There are three locks side by side and the width of the canal would easily allow two good size boats to slip by side by side very easily.

It is a truly impressive system and I only wish that there was some way that I could get in to one of the towers so that I could get a better photo of one of the paths of water flowing over the top of the other! There are plenty of photos that you can seek out elsewhere and todayis not the best of days with only one barge travelling on the canal while we are there. Not like the plethora of boats that many photos show! In the autumn chill of 6 degrees, this is one lonely place today!

We had read a little about Magdeburg Cathedral while I was researching the Water Bridge and so once we have had our fill there, we head into the centre of the City. As soon as we reach the outskirts we start to see the dichotomy of this city where the new sits proudly alongside the old, without conflict, but more with a 'what the ???' While much of the civic architecture is old, much of the housing is new. Apartments blocks sure, but at least with an effort to make it interesting with blocks of colour and great public art.

But our time here is limited as we have to drive to Wuppertal and it will take us over 3 hours. With Kate programmed for the city centre, we manage to find a parking spot (thank you Frances) in the Cathedral Square! It is a truly impressive gothic building whose towers can be seen for miles away. In fact we could see them from the motorway long before we got anywhere near the city. This Cathedral has a very interesting past - read about it here. Today it is quite an austere in first glance, but if you take a seat and quietly look around, special discrete items come to your eye. Like the ornate tomb that lies in Mary Anne's Altar in the Ernst Chapel, like the restored choir seats with their faces and scenes relating to earlier occpiers on their misericords, like the Green man and the Tree of Life - one old, one new, tying the 800 years of history relating to this church together. There is a beautiful Pieta and the tomb of King Otto I. And that is just inside. Outside is another story altogether!

The current Cathedral was built after the first cathedral burned down in the early 13th century. This one is much larger and grander. But unlike other gothic churches, there are no external buttresses supporting the walls of this church. The outside is filled with the most fantastic examples of gargoyles, grotesques and agonys. These characters take the forms of animals and people in the most wonderful poses. And then there are the finials and crenellations and parapets and quoins. Aren't they a wonderful mouthful of words - watch out my Scrabble mates, I might just use them! If you need any explanation look here.

Oh, but Magdeburg is more, so much more. It was the cross-roads of the old Roman northern and southern routes, so there are ruins of former roman settlements including statues found in niches that line the oldest garden in the city. Nearby stands the remnants of the former City walls. In the main square, the Markt, lies the outline of the former cathedral that was only discovered in recent times. At the edge of the square there is brass model of the inner city area showing the old cathedral and the new one with all the related church buildings and the other city churches as well as major civic buildings. I always love these reliefs, they visually set the place up so that you can see the relationship between them all.

Surrounding the other sides of the Markt Square are grand buildings that once formed part of the castle and today forms government offices and museums, and on the fourth side are two modern office buildings of a similar height. They are striking and coloured in shades of blues and purples, yet they blend in beautifully in the autumn air. They aslo provide a link to another striking building.

Here in Magdeburg there is another of the stunning Hundertwasser houses. This one is known as "Die Grüne Zitadelle" or The Green Citadel of Magdeburg, a large, pink building of modern architecture completed in 2005. We had hoped that we might get to see it while we are here and low and behold, there it is, peeking out from behind the earlier grand structures, just off the Markt Square. A composite structure, it houses commercial spaces, offices, a hotel and apartments.

Weaving arcades with undulating floors connect a series of inner courtyards with columned colonnades that look more mexican than anything that you would expect here. We can't resist a visit to the public toilets and are not disappointed there either - although at €1 a visit they certainly are the most expensive! There are some shops that really belong here with truly funky items and I manage to buy a few 'souvenirs' of our visit to take home. This adds to the rather small lot of mementos that we have bought!

Later than we had originally planned, we finally left Magdeburg at 3 pm. The drive over to Wuppertal was in and out of rain again. Germany is determined not to allow us to lift our mood as we leave her for the last time this trip. Wuppertal is definitely a working city and our hotel - the Art Fabrik & Hotel reflects this. Once a factory building, this funky establishment appealed to us as soon as we saw it advertised. A series of artists has been involved in the design and layout and their works are all through the hotel, including the furniture of the restaurant.

Dinner is eaten in the hotel as it is raining yet again.
Entrees:
Minestrone - Michael
Special Fleischbällchen in Tomaten-reich (Special meatballs in rich tomato) Maria
Mains:
Rolled Seezungenfilet gefüllt mit Krabben in Hummer-Soße mit Reis und Gemüse (Rolled fillet of sole stuffed with prawns in a lobster sauce with rice and vegetables) Michael
Scallopine in Weißweinsauce mit der Hand geschnittene Kartoffeln und Gemüse (Scallopine in white wine sauce with hand cut potatoes and vegetables) Maria
Dessert: we both have the Creme Caramel that is served with a vanilla custard and chocolate sauce - very nice.

Munich to Magdeburg changes the scenery

2009-11-05T18:42:00.011+01:00

Bernd must be really really quiet in the mornings. We didn't even stir when he got up and it is 7:40 am when we finally rise. Not wanting to disturb Ricki and Charlotte we creep in to the bathroom and have quick showers so that it is free when the little family needs it later.

By the time we come out, Ricki is up and we hear Charlotte gurgling in their bedroom. A much happier little girl this morning. They live on the top of an apartment block about 20 minutes walk from the Sendlinger Tor where we were last week. The apartment is large and airy with huge exposed beams and lots and lots of light. It looks out over the rooftops and onto the statues high on a neighbouring church.

And guess what? From here in the centre of Munich, on a clear day, they can actually see the Alps over a hundred kilometres away. And today is one of those clear days! It is an amazing view. They are currently looking for another apartment on a lower floor. This one is at the top of four flights of stairs and it is hard with the little one and any bags or other stuff. I think though that there is much about this one that they will miss when they finally find another.

So its Michael's turn this morning to do the baker dash. He returns with a great assortment of rolls - oh, how we will miss the European breads. Ricki has set out fresh cheeses and meats including some amazing hard goats cheese that they bought from a farm in Italy. Then there are the jams that includes her own peach jam made this summer. Mmm very nice Ricki - well done! We linger, just chatting.

Charlotte is tired after her restless night and so she is put back for a nap. This gives us time to have a look at Ricki and Bernd's wedding photos - looks like it was a great and fun day, even if it very unseasonally snowed. Here in Germany they usually have two services. The compulsory civil service that is generally a smaller ceremony and then if wanted a church service with the big she-bang party. And surprisingly, often these are held many months apart. Ricki and Bernd were married on 17 October and will have their church service next May! Anyway, she was a beautiful, radiant bride and Bernd looks as though he was bursting with pride. Then came the Charlotte photos and we of course reciprocated with the Izabella photos! Of, and of the other family members too (he he he). It was nice to have the Long Island photos from our trip there all together just before we left on this big adventure of ours.

We had checked on Earth Google for the time estimation for the next leg of the trip to Madgeburg - 4 hours 46 minutes. Kate however estimates it at 5 hours 32 minutes! Egads. We don't get away until 12:45 pm, so it could be a latish arrival, and after dark.
But the trip is uneventful and the roadworks must be nearing completion as our trip was about 5 hours. On the autobahn we do travel a little faster than normal at around 130-135 kph, but it is false economy to go too fast too long - the car just gulps. I guess though, that if you are driving the latest big BMW or Merc 4WD or the latest Porsche or Mazzerati (saw 2!) going well over 200 kph then the least of your concerns is the cost of fuel!!

We travel in and out of rain, through forests and over rolling hills. This more northern part of Germany is just as picturesque as the southern areas, even if the landscape is more 'sedate'! The late autumn afternoons have a wonderful light to them that makes the deepening skys glower while the colours of the season beneath them just shine out. A little further en-route this power plant with its huge concrete towers is caught by the last rays of the sun as if to scream at it (and us!) "use your brains, solar is clean energy!". It sure sticks out like a sore thumb on the horizon!

We make Barleben just outside Madgeburg just before 6pm, although it is well and truly dark by now. The Hotel Scahen-Anhalt lies just off the motorway and is handy for a visit not only to the water bridge but also to see more of Madgeburg. The room is a nice size and they have a lovely restaurant that is quite busy. We agonised over our selections, but not for long!!
Entrees:
Geräucherte Entenbrust an Orangen – Ingwerkompott und marinierten Blattsalaten (Smoked duck breast on orange-ginger compote and marinated leaf salads) Michael
Kürbiscremesüppchen mit gerösteten Kürbiskernen (Crème of pumpkin soup with fried pumpkin seeds) Maria
Mains:
Geschmorter Rehkeulenbraten an Apfelrotkohl dazu reichen wir hausgemachte Schmelzklößchen (Braised leg of venison joint with red cabbage with apple and potatoe dumplings) Michael
Schlemmerpfanne a la Stroganoff vom Schweine und Rinderfilet mit Spätzle (Pan with fillet of pork and beef refined with onions and sour cream, served with Swäbian noodles) Maria
Desserts:
Feiner Quarkstrudel mit Zimteis (Delicate cheese strudel with cinnamon ice cream) Michael
Pfannkuchen mit Himbeer-Püree und frischem Obst (Pancake with raspberry puree and fresh fruits) Maria

Leaving part of the family behind

2009-11-04T00:24:00.015+01:00

Steph and Felix finally walked in the door this morning just after 1:30 am - and not long after we had eventually gone to bed! A quick chat and they told us that they too were caught in a traffic jam on the way in to Munich - and the cause? A truck fire! And the place? The same spot we were caught last week!! What is it about that area I wonder - do do do do.

Turns out that their 'seats' for the concert were in the rafters and not seats as such, but as they said it was a rock concert so the music was loud enough and they could see everything which was good because it was a good stage presentation as well as the music. And they were happy because Green Day came on the stage just after they got there at 8:30 pm and played for 2.5 hours.

And this morning Felix woke us on his way out to work to say goodbye. It has been a real pleasure meeting him and spending time getting to know this person who is so important to our Steph!
Of course, this morning has dawned overcast and wet - almost appropriate for the last day we are spending with Stephi on this trip. :'-(
Breakfast is kind of flat. Oh sure, Steph takes a run down to the bakery to get our last Swäbian pretzels. They are going to be missed as a breakfast item - they are huge, crispy on the outside and the two small 'tails' and otherwise moist and soft and oh, so, yummy. We skirt around the issue of leaving as we chat about anything but our impending departure!

While I look for accommodation in Madgeburg for later in the week, Michael and Steph take a walk into town to do a little shopping. As they leave, it begins to rain heavily again, but clears soon after. Once they are back, we sit and just chat over a coffee or three.

A final check that we are not leaving anything essential behind, and it is that hard time.
With promises of a return visit in the not-too-distant future we are off. The tears flow.
It is hard to leave someone that is so much a part of our extended families.

We walk down the stairs for the last time and put our last things in the car. The day is dull and although the rain has paused for our departure (thank you!) there is still a wind and the autumn leaves continue to fall. It looks as well as feels despondent. There is no point in further delay, so we hurry away, not keen to go, but not wanting to wallow! Please don't look at me like that Steph!

And its not long before the rain is falling again. We are headed back to Munich to catch up with Ricki (who came with Steph to Australia in 1997) her new husband Bernd and their lovely little daughter Charlotte.

The trip takes on a very different colour today. We have taken this road a few times over the year, but this time we know it will be the last time for now at least. We travel in and out of rain. The air is so alive and in the afternoon sun, the countryside is crisp and almost 'electric' in colour and atmosphere.

We arrive back in Munich just in time to join the frantic peak hour traffic in this large city. By the time we are nearing Ricki and Bernd's address it is almost dark (like at 5:15 pm - how different to a few short weeks ago). Bernd is still to arrive home - he is a lawyer and had flown to the north of Germany for appointments with clients today. In the meantime, we enjoy the company of his girls (!) and spend time reminiscing with Ricki about her trip with Steph to us in Australia in 1997 and our great trip to Innisfail where we visited the Jordans.

Charlotte is 5 months old, alert and happy. She comes to both Michael and I without hesitation and Ricki is joyfully proud. Eventually she manages to put her to bed and she puts the finishing touches on dinner as Bernd arrives home. He too is warm and welcoming. We had met him only very briefly in December when Ricki was visiting her family in Schorndorf.

So the four of us exchange travel stories of recent times. We all laugh at how closely we have missed each other both in France in June and Italy last month. We chat about Australia as we have our salad and about family as Ricki serves a truly yummy Chicken Coconut curry.

Ah, what's that? Ah. Charlotte Marie! Awake! And despite both Ricki and Bernd taking turns in trying to settle her, she is just too upset. Eventually, Ricki retires with her - ah, nothing like yer mum! We chat further with Bernd as we help him to pack the dishwasher and wash the glassware and eventually get to show him our family photos and some from Maryborough and Australia. He has another early start tomorrow morning - heading to south of Stuttgart a little over 200 kms away. So its off to bed before midnight for me (although, as usual, Michael sits up later!)

Truly a bittersweet day.

These boots just couldn't keep on walking

2009-11-03T00:16:00.014+01:00

Well, after waiting for phone calls all night with one ear and one eye open, this morning I arose feeling cranky as I phone Zuji back AGAIN. Once again I get that all-too-cheery call on waiting message. grrr But then, joy of joys, Kilash answers the phone. He was the first agent that I spoke with on Friday. He tells me that the agent did try to phone me back last night and as he is again checking availability now that we know all our options, the call drops out again. I had asked him to phone me back if we lost contact this time, so when it happens I take the opportunity to check the phone number I have given them and shock-horror, soon realize that it is Steph's old phone number. Ooops.

Anyway, to cut a long story short, Kilash is on the ball and checks the contact I had left on the original booking and so phones the mobile. Of course, it is almost flat so I have to put in on to charge while we talk. Why can't anything be easy??? So now, it is all over. Done like a dinner. We are booked to come home. Rather bittersweet really. Miss our family and friends so that will be nice, but we have made so many new friends and I am sure there are still plenty more to make!

Oh, the details??
OK
Depart London Heathrow 11:05 am Sunday 15 November (local time)
Arrive Sydney 8:20 pm Monday 16 November (local time)
We will spend a few weeks in Sydney and Newcastle visiting the Mums and call in on the Brisbane folk on our way home.

Now though, it is time to go and say goodbye to Mutti and the Mucz family so we drive down to Schorndorf to see them all. Its a work day, so we don't tarry too long. When we get to Mutti's most of the family is there for lunch. Final hugs and the tears flow. But somehow I don't think it will be too long before we are back. A last photo and off we go.

Today is the day to buy Michael some new boots. We bought a pair when we were in Germany in January and finally they have split. But he has literally walked all day every day in them. Up towers, over stiles, on the 'cat's heads', under the edge of waterfalls and over craggy rocks. He has stretched in them and crouched in them. They have been sodden and dry and dusty. So do they owe Michael anything? Nah, I don't think so! Someone mentioned that they come with a 12 months guarantee, but somehow I think we would have a hard time claiming against it! Anyway, he wanted another pair exactly the same so went back to the Larca store near Schorndorf and he got his Meindl boots, so now he is a happy boy!

And this afternoon we headed into Schwäbisch Gmünd to post a load back to Australia - two boxes each a tad under 20 kgs! Gosh, anyone would think we have been away for a year or something!

Steph and Felix have Green Day concert tickets in Munich tonight (yes, we are not the only ones who drive three hours to see a show and then return in the same night!). Felix had to work, but Steph has had the day off with us - nice sharing time. We stay in and cook pork cutlets and veges. Tonight I am tired, so I won't be sitting up for Steph and Felix, but no doubt Michael will. Goodnight all. Tomorrow we head off to Munich in the early afternoon and to see Ricki and her new husband Bernd and their little daughter Charlotte.

So, the count-down is on. AUSTRALIA

Do water and phones mix?

2009-11-02T00:16:00.003+01:00

Rain, rain go away
We are trying to re-pack
And while the weather is this wet
To the car we do not want to go back!
(yeah yeah I know, she's a poet and don't she know it!)

Yep, that wet stuff is falling from the sky again - and just as we are doing the swap-a-roo with all our stuff. Winter clothes in one suitcase for now, summer clothes in another suitcase for when we get back to Australia and 40 kgs - yes, you read right 40 - to be posted in two boxes from Germany direct to home. That makes a total of 80 odd kilos for the two of us plus incidentals such as the laptop (precious, my precious), the cameras and carry on stuff!

I spend the first half of the day copying the balance of our photos on to DVDs as a backup to that fantastic present that they gave me when I left work before leaving last December - the external hard drive. Total to date = 76,348! Then it is down to those blasted suitcases. It takes us most of the afternoon to sort things as to where we need or want them to be. And still the rain persists. Late in the afternoon, it eases enough for Michael to get the whole lot down to the car (he still gets wet though) in readiness for posting tomorrow.

And tonight I am AGAIN trying to connect with Zuji long enough to change our airline booking. Now that daylight saving is finished here and active again in Australia, its a real pain - and THEN factor into the equation that their Call Centre is in India! Each time I have called in the last three days, the phone line has dropped out and when you phone back, I sit in a queue - until the office shuts and so does the phone system. grrrrrr Not good, but then we have ALL seen those photos of the phone lines in India haven't we!

I tell you what - when I was working in the travel industry, we had to work hard to make sure we kept our existing clients - they made up a very significant percentage of all sales. Seems that that level of service has slipped somewhat lately. I know that I am sick of sitting in a queue listing to a recorded message telling me to "Please hold. Your call is important to us and you will be served by the first available consultant" every 30 seconds for more than 20 minutes at a time. Listen up Zuji - for an online travel agency THIS IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH! Will need to work very hard to convince me to use your services again.

So, here I sit after midnight waiting for a call that was supposed to be returned about 5 minutes ago. The consultant said she could not guarantee to get back to me in the hour - it depends on their call load. I had to explain that in Gernmany it is already in the middle of the night and I am already sitting up waiting, well passed the time I would normally retire to bed. Lets see who can hold out the longest ...

Ding dong, the bells are ringing . . .

2009-11-01T02:09:00.031+01:00

It dawned a cool morning - all of 2°C! Oh yes, winter is well and truly on the way in Europe. Felix wants to study today so after a prolonged breakfast, Steph and Michael and I head out to explore the countryside around Schwäbisch Gmünd. We filled the car with petrol after travelling from Slovenia on one tank of fuel - part of Slovenia, across Austria and then about a quarter of the way across Germany. Not bad huh! In Australia, the only way you could even travel part way across three states on a single tank of fuel would be if you were in the corner areas where they all meet!

While the weather is still fresh and crisp, the sun is shining and out of the breeze it is a beautiful autumn day. Although lots of people here in Europe say that they love autumn, I think that us, coming from an area where we have predominantly evergreen trees are truly enjoying the change in the season the most. What they have here that we in Queensland can never have is a totally different look of the landscape for each season. At the moment its warm to look at (probably to compensate for the falling temperatures!) and when there is a mist or fog, which is often, it is very surreal - as though you are looking out through a gauze curtain.

So, we begin our exploring at the remains of the Limes and Roman Fort just on the outskirts of modern Schwäbisch Gmünd. Throughout our journey, we are constantly awe-struck by the monuments we've seen. However, the Limes and Roman Fort need some imagination (with the assistance of some thorough information boards and models) but this does not minimise the expanse of the Limes Germanicus (Germanic Frontier) created by the Roman Empire.
Limes Germanicus represented a remarkable frontier line of walls and forts bounding the Roman provinces of Germania Superior (this comprised the areas of western Switzerland, the French Jura, Alsace and south western Germany) and Raetia (containing the Upper Rhine and Lake Constance). The Limes forts were established between 83AD to 260AD to divide the Roman Empire and unsubdued Germanic tribes. This frontier eventually stretched from the North Sea outlet of the Rhine to Regensberg on the Danube! The total length of the Limes frontier was 568km of walls and ditches; including 60 castles, 900 forts and 30000 troops.

However, we are concerned with the immediate area of Schwabish Gmund. To appreciate the area, and get a 'feel' for the Limes requires a long and enjoyable walk. We first start at the parking area, which provides an information shelter with substantial information boards (in both German AND English), together with a bronze high relief map. This information allows you to obtain an overview and directions to commence ones exploration.

Leaving the shelter, we are presented with a tall monument which indicates the regions the Limes actually reached: VINDOBONA (Vienna); CASTRA REGINA (Regensburg), to name just a few. Nearby we reach replicated sections of Limes walls and ditches. One side of the road (yes, and it's the original Roman road) is a wall section constructed from dressed tree trunks and shattering. The other side provides a wonderful example of Roman technology at its best - the composite masonry wall. After, several absorbing moments we head upwards and towards Kastell Freimuhle (Castle Free Mill). The fort was first discovered in 1901 and subsequent investigations have revealed the castle to have been 55m x 55m, about 0.28 ha. Little remains of the site, except for the wall and tower footings. At the centre of the site is a bronze model depicting what the fort may have looked like.
We then retrace our steps to the replica walls and proceed along the Roman road. The map at the information shelter indicates the road leads to a lower fort. This is an interesting promenade which is punctuated by altars, road statuary and mortuary stele. It appears the lower fort may be further than expected, however, it is indeed a glorious day for a jaunt. We come across the remains of a roman bridge concorse, here a modern wooden bridge has been added to allow visitors to cross into an adjoining forest.

Forest's in this region are just spectacular and more so when we cross the bridge into the forest. Following a well worn path, we climb further into the forest where we finally reach the remains of a small part of the wall. After enjoying the silence which the forest provides, we once again retrace our steps to resume our trek along the Roman road. Finally, we reach our destination and it is realised that there is nothing left of the fort - only a green pasture. The walk is not a disappointment as many interesting sights have been experienced, and nothing less than the forest itself.

From here we drive up into Schwäbian Alb so that we can look back over the valleys of the Rems River and indeed over Schwäbisch Gmünd itself. The light is magical, casting a warm glow over the landscapes below and it makes me want to find a piece of paper and some watercolours. From above, Schwäbisch Gmünd look a real picture with its mix of red terracotta roofs, statuesque civic buildings and churches and wooded hills.

Up into the lowest slopes of the Alb we find small towns and smaller villages in a rural setting. That 'alpy' smell of freshly fertilised land is back and you know even after travelling in and out of the Alps for the last months, we still crinkle our noses when we smell it. I'll never forget it, and I'm sure I never want to get used to it!

Passing through towns with evocative names like Straßorf, Lauchof and Lenglingen with its equine industry, through to Hohenstaufen with its castle sitting high on the hill in the forest over the town (we haven't got time to walk up), we continue on our way and cross the Neckar River to go to Plochingen - home to the Hundertwasser-Haus (reminiscent of Antonio Gaudi's architecture that we saw in Barcelona) named for the local architect who designed it. This ultra modern flowing masterpiece is home to commercial spaces as well as apartments. But Hohenstaufen is more than just one building and they have retained their old market square with some great examples of timber trussed houses. The old market house has been adapted to modern uses - something that is always nice to see. Modern art sits alongisde more traditional items like the 13 bell Glockenspiel that chimes its tunes at 11 am, 3pm and 5 pm daily. We are standing looking at thise small history column when the bells start at 3 o'clock.

All the time, we are en-route to visit Katie and Josef (friends of Steph we met when we were through here in July) at their home in Stetten - a small town set amidst the vineyards. Katie has been baking up a storm and we enjoy slices of Zwetschgedatsche (plum cake) and a Kugelhopf as we played with Joesphine their gorgeous little daughter (and missed our own little precious one Izabella). It was remarkable to see not only how much she had grown in the last few months, but also how much she has developed as a little individual!

And finally we met Olga and Rudi Mucz (Steph's aunt and uncle) for a final dinner with them at the local s’Būrger Stüble Restaurant just next door to their house. The food here is typically Swäbian and always delicious. And I have forgotten to write down the menu, so you will have to make do with a translation of what I remember!
Entrees:
Olga, Rudi, Felix and Michael began with Kürbis-Creme-Suppe mit saurer Sahne(Creme Pumpkin Soup with sour cream)
Mains:
Gänsekeule mit mit blauen saukraut und Kartoffelknödel (Goose leg with with blue saukraut and potato dumplings) Rudi, Olga and Michael
Casserole der Rehe und Wildschweine und Pilze mit Spätzle (Casserole of Deer and Boar and Mushrooms with Swäbian noodles) Felix
Schweinefilet in Cognac-Sahne-Sauce mit Spätzle, Kartoffelsalat und grünem Salat (Pork in Cognac cream sauce with Swäbian noodles, potato salad and green salad) Steph
Maultasche mit Ei mit Kartoffelsalat und grünem Salat (Swäbian ravioli with egg with potato salad and green salad) Maria
Desserts:
Steph and Felix and Michael and I shared two desserts that are the speciality of the chef - a trio of tastes - Mousse au Chocolat, Panna cotta und Nuss-Eis (Chocolate mousse, Panna cotta and nut ice cream). Mm, mmmm!
Of course there was champgane and red wine and liquers consumed in sufficient quantities to ensure that the conversation was lively and varied. At times like these, the rest of us are thankful that Michael is able to be our designated driver!

A great night for us all!!!

Families

2009-10-31T01:51:00.010+01:00

Slept in until 9 am and then rose to have breakfast with Stephi - she had been down to the bakers and got those yummy yummy pretzels and fresh rolls. None of this stuff out of the freezer or those over-preserved breads from the supermarket here! We opened the blackberry jam that Sarah had made (at Il Sarale in Umbria!) and was truly delicious.

And so this morning it was in to the Post Office - I had something to post to Isabelle in Pontorson in France (no, I am not telling you what it is - you will just have to wait and see!) and some souvenirs for Donna - the big one is for you sis - as well as finding out the best way to get some 'stuff' home.

Max box size 60 x 60 x 120 and no more than 20 kgs. Try to find a box anything like that size here. The largest that the post office sells is much smaller and all the shops in the mall where we were rip them down as soon as they unpack them. Hmmm, might need to rethink what we don't bring home! Now its off to do some grocery shopping - gosh how I love the delis here - even the ones in the supermarkets are so different to those back home. Ideas, ideas and more ideas!!!

We have been invited to afternoon tea with Mutti (Steph's grandmother) who greets us with hugs hard enough to break you in two. She served the lightest most delicious chocolate torte and a sweet yeast bread with jam. Both she had cooked this morning - not bad for a lady of 89 years is it?! And it was not just Mutti who was there - Olga and Rudi (Steph's aunt and uncle), Anja and Thomas, Ulli and Andy and their girls Maya and Anneka rounded it out. We all squeezed into Mutti's dining/lounge room and the chatter flowed back and forth for about 2 hours. Then it was time to say goodbyes and head back to 'home'.

Tonight Ulli and Andy and coming with the girls and we are having raclette. We shopped today for all the ingredients - reclette cheese, pork fillet, turkey breast, salami, ham, potatoes, capsicum, mushrooms and zucchini. Ulli brought the dips/sauces and I am determined to get the recipe for her yummy cheese one. We shared champers, a bottle of Chateauneuf de Papes and lots of stories. They are just about to begin building a new house, so the toast was to old friends and new beginnings. Great night.

Felix gets home from an absence of 3 days about 10 pm much to Steph's delight - ah, true love!

Making plans for Australia

2009-10-30T01:11:00.005+01:00

Today was a quiet and kind of frustrating day.

When we woke about 8 am Steph and Felix had gone to work.

I spent the first two hours on the phone to the trave agents, trying to change our flights back to Australia. When I booked the return tickets last December (and then only because we had to have proof of our return to our place of residence so we could go to the US to visit my brother) I knew that we would probably need to change them and that this would incur some cost. We can be a little flexible around the 13 - 16 November, so armed with this information I phone Zuji who have informed me that for security reasons they will not make changes through email.

I get an agent who sounds asian and when asked about the weather back home, he informs me that 'home' is in India where the Zuji Call Centre is located! Back and forth we go, exploring all possibilities including cancelling these tickets outright and booking a return fare home (a return ticket is always cheaper than a one way ticket - helps to have worked in the industry!) But the penalty costs are too high. And when I originally booked the tickets I was smart (NOT) and booked them through to Brisbane. Now however, we want to go via Sydney and catch up with our Mums before we return to Queensland and Maryborough. My Mum flies out to South Africa for 3 months to visit Michael and Aunty Mary on December 8.

Turns out that a change in the route - that is, Sydney instead of Brisbane, can only be okayed by the airline and they only work to 5 pm Monday to Friday - bugger the greatly increased time difference, it is now 10 hours instead of 8 and I have missed this time. So now, I have to wait for Monday because we sure as hell can't afford two changes.

After that, I went back to bed and slept for much of the day - I am fighting a cold and a persistent sore throat so a few extra hours sleep was great.

Michael emptied the car and brought all our bits and pieces up and then did some washing. Tonight we sorted through all the literature we have yet to send home and sorted winter and summer clothes into the appropriate suitcases. Steph had a minor heart attack when she came home and saw the table covered in 'stuff' for them. Some camping gear and food staples that we are not going to be able to use any more. But it didn't take long to go through it and put it all away.

Felix is out tonight, so Michael and I are treated to some of Steph's Hungarian Goulash and Rice. She ate a big lunch (as they do here) and so just had bread with cheese and cold meats. We chatted over dinner and later Michael ironed and we half watched X-Men while he did it.

Tomorrow we are off to the Post Office to sort out the most economical way to get our extra stuff home - ah, the fun of it all!

Ulm - from disaster to fantastic

2009-10-29T00:26:00.015+01:00

We made a good start towards Ulm this morning, getting away just before 11 am. After changing our minds, we are travelling towards Stuttgart along the motorway. This one is still being built and we often are turning into re-directed lanes that snake from one side of the road to the other. Then as if to laugh at our decision to take the fast route, we find ourselves coming to an almost screaming halt about 40 minutes into the trip and for the second time in a few months, we are being held up by a burning truck. It is about 800 metres from where we are and there are about 40 cars between us and it. Everyone rushes to pull to the outer edges of the lanes leaving space for the emergency vehicle (that we know will come) to travel down the centre between us. They do come eventually, but are travelling down the other side of the barrier.
This time the truck is carrying palleted goods, and boy, do they burn. The smoke starts thick and black and for a while we can’t even see the traffic lined up in the other direction. Then the smoke clears to white before a very loud explosion signals the petrol tank going and again the smoke turns black. The roads workers have a back hoe and they are trying to pull the burning load off the truck bed, but every time they move it, it allows more air in to the fire and up she goes again.

One police car,
1 fire truck, 2 fire truck, 3 fire truck, 4.
5 fire truck, 6 fire truck, gosh, do we need more?!
1 fire chief, 1 ambulance make up the score!
And foam, lots of foam seems to be the answer.

An hour after we first stop, the traffic in the opposite direction is led slowly past us by the fire chief. We however are still at a dead stop. They will need to clear some of the debris and much of that foam before we can move. The traffic from the opposite direction has now cleared and there is no more coming passed so we can only assume that they are diverting the traffic at the next junction. Behind us, the traffic stretches for kilometres – as far as we can see. Too bad there is not a spot to turn and re-trace our steps back to the last exit, although that was miles back.

It is 1¾ hours before we move. Once we get near the mess that was once a truck, the roads crews have forced open the barrier between the traffic lanes so we can cross to the other side and then a little later cross back in again. We reach the next exit about 3 kilometers further down the road and see that they are indeed diverting the traffic in the other direction. It is crawling at a snail's pace - much slower than we are going because they are being forced onto much smaller roads. And even though it is moving, the queue is a further 8 kilometres long!

We finally arrive at Ulm at 3 pm after crossing the Danube River. There is quite a haze covering the whole city and I guess that where there are industries, by the end of the week there is going to be some build up of pollution. Its a real pity because the countryside is lovely and green and the autumn leaves colour the landscape with a kaleidoscope of colours that is so different to the myriad of greens we saw here in the summer. We had come through here in July and had a very quick look at the Ulm Cathedral – just long enough to know that we wanted to come back and see more. Once we find our way into one of the underground car parks we head first for the Town Hall just off the main square.

This is one impressive building! Part is set with gothic windows and the surrounding walls are decorated with sculptures. But the north and east facades are covered most wondrously with paintings depicting human virtues and vices. The south east corner has a magnificent embedded oriel window and there is a pulpit of homage and an astronomical clock - and it dates back to 1491. Well sort off. It was destroyed by bombing in 1944 and rebuilt to the original plans and decorations in 1951.

There is the impressive 'Syrlin Fountain' of which we can just glimpse the top as is has been shuttered over for winter. We later find another in the courtyard of the police headquarters that was once the 'Neu Building' where the Swabian circle sat. (regional council)

The Cathedral too is an amazing building and boasts being the world's tallest church. We have seen some tall ones including Notre Dame, Cologne and Salisbury but this one really does take the cake. Check it out here. Michael is determined to climb the 768 steps to have a look today. When he comes back down, he tells me that he actually counted 772 steps.

Begun in 1377, it grew from small cathedral to grander and grander until all works were halted in 1534 with the arrival of the reformation. Work did not start again until the 1840s and the cathedral was not completed in its present form with the spire and twin towers until 513 years later in 1890! It is filled with stained glass windows from across the centuries, a 15th century tri- polytryptic altar and the most amazing carved choir stalls. And the views out over the twin cities of Ulm and Nue-Ulm from the steeple are fantastic as you can see!

By the time Michael gets down from his climb up the steeple it is 4:45 pm and the light is very quickly fading. We stop for a hot chocolate and coffee because with the dimming light, the temperature is heading south very very quickly! Then we walk around to the Fisherman’s Quarter. This quaint reminder of days past houses narrow little streets and crooked little half-timbered houses that were once the residences of local fishermen and boatmen who shipped goods and emmigrants to Hungary and other eastern Europe destinations.

Very foggy tonight and leaving Ulm I have programmed Kate to take us on the fastest route to 'home' - Steph and Felix's in Schwäbisch Gmünd. I though that this would have been motorway and major roads, but no, it is on back lanes through small villages, up hill and down dale - and all at a crawl - sometimes we are only going at 40 kph - all because of the thick enveloping fog. And it did not help that we climbed up and over the northern most tip of the Schwäbian Jura mountains in that fog - round and round the hairpins. Gosh, what a day!

Its great to see Steph again. She looks really well and a holiday in the States recently has given her a little colour. She has cooked a stir fry for dinner with VEGEs. Yum. We sit over a meal and shared bottle of red chatting about all that we have seen and done since re left here in July. Gosh it really has been a trip and a half. It is as cold as here - only 3 degrees outside. Thankfully, the heating is on and we warm up pretty fast.

Old technology and new applications

2009-10-28T03:07:00.015+01:00

We came back to Munich so that we could have a little more time at the Deutsches Museum. With over 50 exhibit sections spread over 47,000 square metres, this is one of the world's largest museums. And as they like to say, a technical museum is never complete because with the changes of time, the exhibits are constantly evolving! Last time we were here we spent all of our hours at the Astronomy exhibit and the Planetarium. This time we are determined to see more!!

We begin with Bridge building and hydraulic engineering. Now, bridges have always fascinated me and the new construction techniques are nothing short of amazing. These days, Michael too snaps photos of all the different bridges we pass under or cross over. There are lots of references to the great bridges of the world and how early planning and construction is still used either fully or as a part of new ways, and as we walk around the displays we realise that we have seen more than 90% of the bridges cited - in their actual settings! Their dioramas and models are not bad either! The first hour is spent here - gosh, we will have to pull finger out if we want to get through all we came to see today.

Next stop is to have a look at the Museum's model of Foucault's pendulum. It is smaller than the one we saw at the Cathedral in Bologna, but probably more impressive because you can get well above it and look down on it in motion rather than just viewing it from side on. We watch for a few minutes and actually get to see one of the markers fall. The pendulum hangs in the tower on a line that is 7 stories high. For those who forget, this is the experiment that demonstrates the rotation of the earth. And just as the earth doesn't stand still, neither does time, and nor should we!

Up on the next floor is the first of the Musical Instruments displays. The setting is a beautiful parlour with egg-shell blue coloured walls and white stucco mouldings. In here we find keyboard instruments dating back to 14th century. And then there is the trumpet from the 1930's that looks like a lily!

Then it is through to the Foto and film section and with the many many thousands of photos we have taken on this trip, you could be forgiven to think that we lost our concept of space and time here! But no, we have a walk through look, learning how man conquered the sciences to allow us to record all our favourite things on film - still and moving. There are many references to the Lumiere Brothers and the breakthroughs that they made in the development of colour film and moving pictures. And again, we have seen much of their work they left us in their house that is now a museum in Lyon. In the latest state-of-the-art technologies there are huge touch panels set in the centre of the room where you can learn more about the exhibits. Think about all those futuristic shows where city maps come to life on glass screens at a touch and you will know what I am referring to.

A walk through the Textiles exhibit it shows us just how far we have come in using raw products to clothe ourselves and how synthetics have taken us even further. It is true that necessity is the mother of all invention and equipment such as the Spinning Jenny loom have made it affordable for us all to have clothing made of nicer fabrics. Before this, they were much coarser. Continuing to walk through the second floor we pass through first the Ceramics and then the Glass blowing and glass technologies sections.

These two sections demonstrate the age old techniques developed by early man to solve his storage needs. Lucky for us, we have seen many many examples from pre-historic pieces to Roman amphora and then to the fascinating and beautiful Murano Glass in Venice. Everywhere we go, the museums have pieces of ceramics that link the journey we have taken with man through the ages.

And it is not too far a stretch of the imagination to then link ceramics and glass to Astronautics and mans conquering of space - really, its not. Because these two substances form the basis of so much of the hardware that has been developed in the space race. For those of you who are old enough to remember, like we are, the space age and the mass and multimedia age arrived together, so the museum has a wealth of information on the development of the space industry and the exploits into outer space. They cover all the development and application of space knowledge in terms of us exploring it - from the earliest land based rocket engines to Man in Space.

At this point I went back to the car to take another cold and flu tablet (yeah, thanks Donna!)while Michael spent one last hour in the Aeronautics and Marine navigation sections. I guess the only thing that made him leave here was when they started shutting the lights as the museum closed at 5 pm. I mean, we all know about Michael and planes!!! He tells me that it is an exhibit of the German contribution to the development of aviation. Highlights included the Zeppelin displays, WWI fighter craft and the icing on his cake is a restored ME109e - his favourite of German fighter planes, and yes, it is the real McCoy not some copy. And therewere biplanes and triplanes a-plenty!

In the marine section he had to drag himself away from drooling over the WWI German U1 submarine - the first one to go into service. The fact that its neighbours included a very old barquetine that sailed in the mid 1800s as well as other old vessels was not lost on him either!

We had missed seeing the Sendlinger Tor the last time we visited Munich so once we left the museum just after 5 pm, we drove around. This is the last remaining bastion of the walls and gates that once defended the inner sanctum of Munich and it dates from 1381. Amazing that so much of it is still standing given the recent history of Germany. Trouble was, it is now dark and so the photos can't do it justice.

There are a couple of stall vendors still open in the plaza just outside the Gate - guess that they are trying to catch commuters on their way home. Bought half a kilo of the freshest dates you can find - literally just picked, still plump and moist. We could have also got freshly roasted hot chestnuts - ah yes, winter is on the way and the countdown to the Yuletide is on.
After a search for a restaurant we found the Hackerhaus Restaurant that specialises in Bavarian favourites. Behind our table we stare dumbfounded at the largest beer stein we have ever seen and wonder just how many hangovers are in this behemoth!
Entree: we both start with a bowl of steaming hot Das Münchner Traditionshaus Kartoffelsuppe mit Speck (Traditional Munich potato soup with bacon)
Mains:
Schmorbraten "München-Stil" in Sauce (Sauerbraten) mit Semmelknödel und gemischtem Salat (Braised beef 'Munich style' in gravy (Sauerbraten) with bread dumplings and a mixed salad) Michael
Ein halbes knusprig gebratenes Schweinefleisch knucle mit Kartoffelknödel und Krautsalat mit Speck (Half a crispy roasted pork knucle with a potato dumpling and cabbage salad with bacon) Maria

In a place out of time?

2009-10-27T00:25:00.023+01:00

Ah yes, that glass walled shower on view for all the room to see was interesting to say the least! Breakfast at the motel was expensive to say the least so Michael took a walk to the train station and came back with great coffees and pastries. Graz like many other cities is having road works done so we dodge them to get across the river and closer to the old city that we want to see.

Parking is not too much of a problem here - while there is no street parking nearby, there are plenty of parking stations that have been located underground. And these parking stations are like none others we have come across - spotlessly clean, very well lit, plenty of space with the spots marked by a sensored pad on the ground, piped music etc etc etc! And affordable!

They are all located at the peripheries of the main tourist areas, which makes it easy to get to things to have a look. The city sits in a valley and up the slopes of a steep hill that is crowned by the Schlossberg (castle hill). We will finish our time here with a trip up to there. But we start down in the main square, which is just around the corner from the car park. The tourist office here has put out an excellent brochure that is divided into three walks through the old city allowing you to tailor your time.

We begin our stroll in the Hauptplatz (main square) near the town hall with its domes, statues and clock. In the Square in front of the town hall there is a market place with permanent stalls selling souvenirs, food, flowers and newspapers. They are set all close together so that along with the modern settings, you still get the atmosphere of the markets places of old. There is the Archduke Johann fountain just outside the town hall. All around the sqaure (on the outer sides of the tram lines) there are a number of buildings with amazing facades of stucco or sgraffito high on their walls (including the amazing 'Painted House') and with arcades from the streets into inner courtyards. Many of the facades date back to the early 1700s!

Around behind the town hall lies the Landhaus - a masterpiece of the Italian Renaissance that looks like it should be sited in Venice. Turns out that it was designed by a northern Italian architect so no wonder it looks like it does. Not only is the facade beautiful, the inner courtyard with its lamps and wells and its arched porticos is just as stunning. The Styrian parliament (the State that Graz is capital of) sits here.

From here we head up. The streets are not too steep, but the cobblestones are painful - how I hate them. And no, even after almost a year, my feet have not grown accustomed to them! And to add insult to my injury, we enter into a medieval courtyard where the cobbles are made from river stones that are laid on their edges - ouch ouch ouch! We see the Glockenspiel and buildings that have operated as various enterprises for hundreds of years, including a bakery with an amazing carved and inlaid timber store front.

I pass the shop of a tailoress who is selling traditional clothes. There are hand knitted jumpers and cardigans on a rack out the front and I can't resist buying a special little girl a special little one. It will come in very handy - no not in Darwin, in Kapooka! We heard from Antony this morning that he has been promoted to the rank of Bombadier and is being transferred to Kapooka near Wagga Wagga on the New South Wales / Victoria border as of early January as a Cadet Instructor! Anyway, back to Graz - this seamstress must be pretty good, there are three couples in there buying clothes - all Austrians!

We continue to walk up and come to the Cathedral built in 1438 - 1464 and the close by Mausoleum. Neither are open so all we can so is admire them from outside. In the architectural gems of the surrounding areas there is a Jesuit College and the 'Old' university that was founded in 1585. There are more squares with statues and more churches including the Parish Church that is a nice mix of old and new. We are now winding our way back down to the main square through narrow pedestrian streets filled with narrow shops selling all many of goods from sporting equipment to jewellery, from confectionary to eye glasses. People walk or ride pushbikes here - though not too many of them are riding uphill, just a couple of very fit young men - most people get off and push their bikes!

Now its time for lunch. Well, I'm not sure what you call the meal that covers both lunch and dinner - lunner? Kind of like brunch at the other end of the day. Anyway, whatever it is, we are having it now. We walk away from the main square looking for somewhere that takes our fancy and we find the Keller Restaurant through an alleyway and a courtyard. We are hungry, but boy, these meals are huge!
Entrees:
Champignon gebacken mit Sauce Tartare (Deep fried champignons with Tartare sauce) Michael
Emmentaler gebacken mit Preiselbeeren (Deep fried Emmentaler cheese with Cranberries) Maria
Mains:
Gemischter Grillteller mit Reis, Bratkartoffeln und feinem Gemüse (Mixed grill with rice, pan-fried potatoes and vegetables) Michael
Fiakergulasch mit Ei, Gurkerl, Würstl, Servietterknödel (Beef goulash Fiacre style with egg, gherkin, sausage, white bread dumplings) MariaWe had been eyeing off the breaded apple slices for dessert, but the meals are so big that we can't finish either of them, so there is definitely no room for desserts! Our hunger pangs put away, we head back out into the afternoon sun to head towards the Schlossberg high on the hill overlooking the city. There are three ways you can get up there - on foot up the hundreds of steps, using the funicular or via a lift that goes up through the centre of the mountain - our preferred choice today. For the tiny sum of €2.80 we both get return tickets!

Now this has been my eagerly awaited highlight of the day. The clocktower that sits high above the city and is visible from almost every part of it is the best known symbol of Graz. Trouble is that the clock's hands are back to front with the small hand showing the minutes and the large hand, the hour! And while we don't have time to climb all the way to the castle, we do spend some time at the clocktower, admiring the scene over the rooftops of Graz and the Mur River. The hoarding around the top of the tower was erected as a lookout for the fire brigade. And then there is the bell tower just a little further up the hill that Michael dashes up to see.

But dont think for a minute that Graz is trapped in some time warp. Just as the old city shines, there are a number of very futuristic buildings that have been commissioned. Most notable are the Kunsthaus Graz built in 2003 to host exhibitions, and the Mursinel - a floating structure in the Mur River connected to the banks by two weaving footbridges. It houses a restaurant and an amphitheatre. They sit shoulder to shoulder with the architecture of times long past, complementing rather than competing with them. And their wierd shapes seem very much at home amongst the myriad of towers that were there long before them.

And so our time has come to leave Graz and head for Munich. We have a four hour drive ahead of us which means that we won't get there until after 8 pm. As we are leaving the city, the afternoon light is fading fast. Gosh, it wasn't all that many weeks ago that it was light until the late hours of the night!

As we travel across Austria we are heading back into the land of the high snow capped mountains (and yes, they have already had snowfalls high on the peaks)! For quite some time we are actually travelling throug the mountains in a series of tunnels - the longest being 8.3 kms long is the longest we have travelled on our trip. When we see the last breath of the sun gently washing the wispy clouds with a soft rosy hue, and the mountain tops gleaming in that last light of the day, with small villages burrowing down for the cool night in the valleys below (it is now 4°C), I understand why my Dad loved this part of the world so much and kept coming back.

We are travelling the motorways and as soon as we reach Germany, just past the city of Salzburg, the speed limit free Autobahn sees the traffic take off in a frenzy of fast paced racing. Honestly, some of the cars are travelling well in excess of 200 kph - in the dark. Not us though. We keep to a much more sedate 120 kph! We make good time and hit Motel One in Putzbrunn just outside the main centre of Munich about 8:20 pm. Oh for a bed. On checking in, the receptionist Consuela, remembers us from our last stay here in July - now THAT is what you call great customer relations! She does say however that friendly guests make it easy to remember them!! Ain't she sweet.

One day, three countries

2009-10-26T10:13:00.014+01:00

Well, Donna has left for home. When we were having dinner last night we were talking about the dreaded trip home - not because you are headed home, but rather because of the thought of 20+ hours flying in cramped conditions and endless hours of stopovers in generic airport lounges where it is impossible to get any sleep, or maybe even worse - the fast stopover that has you running from your arrival gate to the departure gate. Both Donna and I have exhausting memories of arriving at Gate 1 in Hong Kong and then needing to leave only one hour later from Gate 89 and the mad dash to get there in time. Unfortunately, she only has a 1 hour turnaround in Hong Kong again - hope the gates are closer this time Sis!

We left the Hotel Stella about 5:20 am to take her to the Airport and once she had checked her luggage through, left her at the departure point to come back and try to get some more sleep. You know what it is like when you know you absolutely positively have to wake up by a certain time - yep, you sleep with one eye open even through you have set the alarm - just in case! Huh - good intentions, but there is a construction site within easy earshot of the hotel - hadn't been a problem over the last couple of days because it was the weekend. This morning however is different . . .

And so we move out too. This begins the countdown for us as well and from here we are headed north towards Germany and Steph and Felix and then further north for London and our own departure. Don't have an exact date yet, will know by the end of the week I hope. (We are trying to change our tickets for a week later). We will definitely be home for Christmas though.

Before we leave Zagreb for good we are going back in to the old town for one last try to get a look at Ban Jelačić Square - the one spot that we have missed so far. But today is not to be lucky either - parking on a week day is just as bad as on the weekend, if not worse. Michael dives out at a Souvenir shop to get a few mementos and comes back with plenty to share with Donna as well. Nice. We also get a photo of the local tie shop - you see, neckties were invented in Croatia - go one guys say thanks! We head back in through the main commercial area to turn north and join the crawling traffic. With nowhere to park I am left wondering if they just drive round and round in endless circles!

Once we are clear of the city though it soon thins out. Today is very foggy. It looks dim and dismal, but apart from being rather dank, and despite being very cool (down to 13.5C), it is a very comfortable day for driving. We want to make one last stop at a supermarket here - I want a bottle of Orahovac (Walnut liquer) that I have come to like so much! I'll add it to the Pear Cognac I have to bring home - so from now I will be building Michael's alcohol allowance!! Don't worry though, my cigarette allowance is still intact. So we follow the signs for one of the Konzum Super stores and end up about 10 kilometres away! Still, shopping successful (we also bought enough of their lovely Jamnica mineral water - by far the very nicest we have ever tried) we re-join the motorway.

This part of northern Croatia is much like Slovenia for where we are headed en-route to Graz in Austria. Through the foggy mist, we can see mountains developing from the lowlands we have left. There is plenty of ploughing going on in the fields by the roadside - everyone is getting busy preparing for what feels might be a long cold winter. All around, we can see the smoke from the home hearths burning inside the houses. Without any wind, they curl lazily upwards in straight columns.

As we near the Slovenian border, the countryside gives way to more rugged scenery with deep chasms appearing between higher cliffs - oh how I wish we had more time to explore this part of Croatia. It has been a wonderful two weeks getting to know this jewel of the Adriatic and its people. But push on now we must. The motorway ends, with further construction going on ahead of us - boy Croatia is really in a road building blitz. And as the motorway ends, the traffic comes almost to a total stop. We crawl forwards so slowly that it doesn't even register a speed on the speedometer. Ah, this is the last kilometer before the border crossing. At least it gives me time to get one last look at the colours of autumn in their blaze of glory before winter and the white claims victory shortly.

As Croatia is not yet a member of the European Union, border posts are still manned at its borders. There is a huge traffic jam here - cars in three queues, buses and coaches in one and trucks in another. We join one queue hoping that there is not going to be any need to open theboot - I mean it is packed to the upper limit. As we get close to the officials, we can see the passengers on all the coaches disembarking to file past a border office and have their passports checked - no wonder there is such a long line of coaches. It would be faster for an official to get on the bus and check the passports - but hey, they are the ones in control, right!

It is much faster to be in the cars and none are being stopped at the moment thankfully - I think that the police are annoyed at the traffic building up that by now must be kilometres long. A police car has come to a screaming, angry stop at the border post just a few minutes ago. We get to a bored official who no doubt must have sore feet. He just glances at our passports and hands them back with a dismissive way. So we crawl forward about 50 feet and this time don't make the mistake of not stopping for the customs official. He doesn't even look at us before waving us through! Guess there is no hard and fast rule.

So we are now back in Slovenia and the EU. First stop is a roadside petrol station for a Vingette that we need to have in order to travel the motorways and main roads. And you can't get one for one day and have to buy one for a week for €15. That's an ouch as we actually need it for less than one hour to travel the 60 kms to the Austrian border where again we must buy a weekly vignette but this time we need it for about a 24 hour period as we are stopping overnight in Graz to have a look. And at €7.70 at least it is more reasonable. Ah, revenue raising in Slovenia is alive and well. As we are travelling the motorway, there is not much we can see of this area of Slovenia, but as with the more western edge, it is very scenic - rolling hills with villages in the valleys and copses of trees left standing on the ridges to minimise erosion and lots and lots of churches - some with tall spire and others with the more orthodox onion shaped domes. Bugger bugger bugger that our time is ending - there is so much more to see. Anyone want to finance us to keep travelling????

Graz is just 40 kms into Austria from this southern border, so it is not long before we are back into a city. The outskirts are very familiar looking - individual houses with fenced or hedged lawns. Once we reach the more urban areas, this gives way to medium density apartment blocks and commercial enterprises. There is the golden mile of car yards, lots of 'bars' thatare advertising scazntily clad women in provocative poses - ah, a (brothel) rose by any name is sweet I guess. There are also numerous casinos and gaming shops.

Austrian motorists here are about as crazy as the Italians, taking crazy crazy risks overtaking on this major road that is generally thick with traffic. And like many other European cities, the horn rules here as well. Gosh, you kind of forget how crazy a large city can be. Kate has no trouble getting us to our accommodation at Hotel Daniel which is literally right next door to the main railway station. However, it is as quiet as!!

The hotel is one of those funky modern types and our room is very interesting with a shower that has a glass wall that looks into the room! Hey Donna and Helen, aren't you glad that you are not with us now! Its very comfortable and that bed looks really really inviting after what has turned out to be a longer day than usual. So instead of going out for dinner, we give in to the dreaded takeaway from the world's largest chain before crashing. By tomorrow morning we should be ready to have a look around!

You know, we swore when we started out on this trip that we would not do the ten countries in two weeks thing that so many visitors to Europe do. Today proved us a little wrong I guess.

A stroll through Zagreb - dead and alive

2009-10-25T08:14:00.026+01:00

Daylight saving finished today which meant we all got to sleep in for another hour - whoo hoo. Michael and I certainly got more sleep than Donna did as she battled with her cold last night. She is on medication from the pharmacy, but it sure doesn't have the efficacy of some of those we are more used to being able to get at home. What she really needs is a good decongestant! And that space that Donna could call her own last night was very hot - the window is on the other side of the room, and the airconditioning unit over the door, so it means that Donna's alcove had no circulating air. Poor thing was hot all night.

And it has stopped raining - yahoo! It is still cloudy, but more of the light high type than the dark filled clouds that threaten to burst their edges at any moment. But that is not all together a bad thing - it means that we will not have to worry about beating sun today as we return to inner Zagreb to have more of a look around - today we are concentrating on the Lower Town.
But first we are off to Mirogoj to have a look at the cemetery. And today we are armed with the name of the streets on which it lies to make sure that Kate can direct us there correctly the first time!! We get about half the way up the hill when we encounter what I had thought we might - thousands of people on their way to the same spot. The traffic was at an inch by inch crawl for the last kilometre or so and with cars parked over the (?) footpaths on both sides of the road, as a driver, you had to be ever so careful not to bump the myriads of people walking up the hill. But Frances came good on the second try and we got a parking spot along the wall about 150 m from the entrance gate.

Now, that wall and its cupolas look far more stunning in the light of day. It hides a 500 m long neo-renaissance arcade with 20 domes. There are lots of famous Croatian people buried here - both in the arcade and within the cemetery proper. Graves here are amazing - there is everything possibly imaginable from austere simple crosses or headstones to elaborate works of art that include all forms from the very traditional to art deco to very modern and abstract. Yet they all sit very happily side by side. We go on a search for old graves but don't find many before the turn of the 20th Century. Ahh, the cemetery was only built in the late 19th century - so that explains that. And do you know what is a little spooky? Some graves have the names, birthdates and the numbers 20 already engraved - for people who are not yet dead!

The number of people out here cleaning graves and just visiting is amazing. There are whole families here - with kids (and some teens too!), there are groups of old ladies and the odd very old couple who look like they are not long before permanent residence here themselves! People also stop at a couple of other spots to reflect and/or pray. One is at grave of Franjo Tuđman, the first post-communist leader of Croatia, others are at the memorials to the fallen in the various wars and the last is to a gilded crucified Christ that stands half way down the main avenue. At all these, people leave wreaths and lit candles. You know, it was that interesting that you could spend a whole week here just ambling through the thousands and thousands of graves.
And so now that we have seen at least some of Mirogoj, we take our leave for the lower town of Zagreb. Being a Sunday, there is no charge for the normally metered parking IF you can find a spot. Luckily, we are happy to leave the car at the far end of the area we want to visit, down near the main rail station. There are less residences here and we get a spot first time - thanks Frances! The area we want to see measures about 3 long blocks by 5 blocks. Now, anyone who knows me knows that this is going to be one huge day for me!! So, off we set . . .

First stop (because this is where we have parked the car) is King Tomislav Square - a large open green space with a monument to Croatia's first king (9th century) standing proudly at one end and looking towards the main Railway Station. It is situated across a myriad of tram lines, bus stops and a major road. Built at the end of the 19th Century, it was one of the stops for the Orient Express Rail Service between Paris and Istanbul in its hey day and the nearby Hotel Esplanade was built to cater for these first class passengers.

At the northern end of the park is the classically beautiful Art Pavilion. Parts of the building are shrouded at the moment with works underway. We wonder whether there are problems with the footings as there are lots of core samples being drilled and at the moment, they lie in wooden boxes drying out.

The next park up is much plainer and is basically a green space with a playground and playing fields. With so many people living in the centre of the city, these sort of facilities are really needed. And then comes Zrinjevac. This is the most beautiful square and park that we see in all of Zagreb. It is named for the Croatian man who died heroically defended a Hungarian fortress beseiged by Turks in the 16th century. The park is very formal in its layout with mature Plane trees, flower beds, neat rows of fir trees and plenty of pathside seating.

Within it are located some important pieces of Zagreb's history including the Meteorological Post where weather conditions have been recorded since 1884. The clock however, is wrong by ten minutes! The first fountain in Zagreb was built here in 1878 just after the opening of the Zagreb waterworks. And nearby stands a bandstand - hmmm, I could just as easily be describing a nice part of Queens Park in Maryborough back home! And there are busts to many notable locals - all recently cleaned with their engraving re-gilded by the look of them.

Lining the streets that border this trio of parks are some amazing examples of architecture - most in Neo-Classical and Neo-Renaissance styles. Opposite the park is one building of great interest - it houses the Archeological Museum. We go on over, only to be stopped by the guard at the door. It closes on a Sunday at 1 pm and it is now almost 2 pm. She does however, kindly let Michael walk through the still open doors into the foyer to have a smidgen of a look.

So we are now at the northern most point of the parks. From here we turn to the west and follow the streets to Petar Preradović Square. This is just short of the half way point and there are a number of cafés open and doing a roaring trade. So we decided to join them all in a coffee and cake. But first we want to find the grounded Sun. No, not that yellow thing that hangs in the sky, but rather a contemporary sculpture that is set in the ground amidst the forest of café umbrellas. In relation to its size, there are supposedly metal spheres representing the planets placed around the city in true scale to this sun. Hmm, no clues as to where and if it were true, then we should at least be able to find Mercury, Venus, Earth and Mars, but no such luck - we wonder whether they are pulling our legs! In the immediate vicinity are two architectural gems - the Octogon and the Napredak Skyscraper, which the architect hates being called a skyscraper as it is only 7 stories high, but it was the first of the modern tall buildings built in 1936 to serve as a commercial and residential building.

The Millenium Café beckons so we sit and enjoy good coffee and great cakes while we gather our gusto for the remainder of our walk and give our tootsies a momentary rest. Thirst quenched we walk back through the square taking photos of the statues of Petar Preradović and Tim Ujević. Both were poets and Petar was an army general as well.

From here it is a few blocks over to the other set of parks that we want to visit. It is amazing to see under the grime of centuries that the grand old buildings now house couture design houses and up market retailers. Street signage is almost non-existant, so you need to walk directly past them to know that they are there. Many of the buildings are covered in scaffolding and hessian and plank walkways that are raised above large holes in the footpaths. Seems that there is much to be done! Masarykova Street houses some lovely commercial buildings and apartments with exquisite finishing touches such as coloured tiles, statuary around doorways and fancy balconies.

And so to the other set of three parks and squares. At the northern most is Marshall Tito Square although there is no statue to him to be found - guess there are mixed feelings about him! The square houses the elegant facade of the Croatian National Theatre, the Well of Life, the Museum of Arts and Crafts and a stunning statue of St George slaying the dragon. His poor horse looks scared half to death! Now, many of the sculptures around Zagreb are the work of one man - Ivan Meštrović and this is considered possibly his best work. It is very striking and you can imagine the figures from young, to lovers to old people reacing in to scoop out the precious water in the well. It is no deeper than the sculpture. This is one busy place - although with the buildings closed on Sunday afternoons, there are not too many tourists around. In fact, the local skateboarders outnumber us all!
The next park is filled with walking paths set amidst mature trees, oh, and that water supply! Nothing much to look at otherwise. And so we come to the last of the large squares within the Lower Town. This is Marulić Square. It houses Croatian State Archives that was once the National and University Library. The building is heralded as the best example of Croatian Art Noveau architecture with its detailed facade elements. The statue of Marko Marulić dominates the open space behind the Archives. He is known as the father of Croatian literature, writing in Latin, Italian and Croatian and wrote Judita (Judith), an epic poem that was the first work to be published in the Croatian language.

And we have now reached the border of the green horseshoe that is formed by these six garden squares and the Botanical Gardens now in front of us. But the day is done and none of us want to explore them, so we turn and head back past the Hotel Esplanade and the Railway Station to the car. We make a quick trip into the Upper Town so that we can get a photo of the amazing tesselated tiled roof of St Mark's Church and one also of St Catherine's Church and the nearby tower. We can't even pull up here for a few minutes as the streets all around here are home to the various consulates and embassies. And Michael is told tersely that he must not take photos of these buildings - a bit hard when they lie directly behind St Marks which comes a very close second to the Cathedral in terms of the wow factor. Sheesh! In the last light of the day, we admire finally the gaslight lamps - more than 200 still exist today in the Upper Town and are lit on dusk by two lamp lighters. Neat, very neat.

We walked a total of 4.24 kms today - no wonder we are tired! There is no way we want to eat out near the hotel tonight and so we decide to try to find somewhere here in the city. We know that there are some restaurants at Kaptol near the Cathedral, BUT, there is no parking up there. Donna pulls out her Croatia guide and we find that we are but a few blocks from one called Restaurant Čiho that specialises in seafood.
Entrees:
Salata od hobotnice (Octopus salad) Michael
Creme škampi juha (Creme scampi soup) Donna and Maria
Mains:
Kraljevska grdobina sa crnom palentom (Royal Frog-fish with Black Polenta - cooked in squid ink) Michael and Maria
Pijana grdobina (Drunken Frog-fish - cooked in white wine) Donna
Desserts:
Čokolada palačinke (Chocolate pancakes) Michael
Orah palačinke (Walnut pancakes) Donna and Maria

Yep, a marathon day today! And bed awaits . . .

Zagreb and that blasted 'spider' crew

2009-10-24T15:38:00.024+02:00

It was just after 11 am when we left the Hotel Paradise - the large room with separate lounge room and bar was very nice. We all had a tad of privacy. Breakfast was good but predictable. Michael is craving a good old Aussie breakfast now - cereal, poached eggs and toast, FRESH orange juice and his brand of coffee!

We can't get in to our next booking at Hotel Stella until mid afternoon, so we drive in to Zagreb city. And if we ever thought that there was difficulty in parking anywhere else, Zagreb 100% takes the cake. We find that all the street parking is for 1 hour only. And even on a Saturday afternoon, the 'spider' team are alive and well and very very active. We see them on the prowl and later, actually watch them remove a car from a spot - aha, so thats how they do it. Now we know how our car was moved in Dubrovnik!!

Anyway, Frances finally finds us a spot about half a kilometre away from the Cathedral (but it will mean that Michael has to come back to feed the ticket machine!) and we set off to take a look through the Upper Town. You see Zagreb is divided into the Upper and Lower Town by a mighty cliff of about 66 m. Oh, it can be climbed by stairs - that would make about 440 steps - not likely for me thanks very much. So we just explore the Upper Town and will leave the Lower Town until tomorrow.

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary holds an impressive place at the Kaptol - one of the higher points of the upper town. Its twin spires tower over the city and can be seen from many vantage points. Construction of the cathedral began in the 11th century but over the years has been adapted and added to many times adopting new styles as they became 'fashionable'. An early gothic facade was added in the 13th century, but the gothic facade that it primarily shows today dates mainly from the early 19th century.

Anyway, whatever, it is beautiful and like many of the large churches in Europe, it too is currently undergoing major cleaning and restoration works - thankfully only on the outside, so we can have a good look around inside. Probably the most stunning thing about this church is the back wall where there is a statue set of the crucifixion. But behind it there is a piece of text that covers the entire wall that is in a language that we have not seen before! It does seem to have some familiar looking letters, but lots that are not. Turns out that it is a text called Glagolitic text and has been used in parts of Croatia for millenia! The exact origins are not known, but it was in use before St Cyril visited the region while preaching Christianity in 860! They also have a saintly resident effigy lying in state - its Bishop Stiepan, the 13th century bishop who had a chapel built next to the church and dedicated it to his patron saint to give thaksfor the deliverance of Zagreb from the Tartar invasion.

As the Virgin Mary is the Patron saint of Zagreb, there is a tall column that a gilded statue of the Virgin sits atop and four angels - Faith, Hope, Innocence and Humility stand beneath her column. At its base is a four-leafed clover shaped fountain complete with bronze reliefs of a face around the base - all crowned with dying wreaths in a somewhat pagan look. And the Cathedral is surrounded on three sides by renaissance walls built to safeguard it from attacks from Ottoman Turks between 1512 and 1521. There are small huts built into the inside of the walls that still stand. These are some of the best preserved renaissance walls in Europe.

We wander down the street opposite the Cathedral straight in to the Dolac markets. These daily markets are one of the landmarks of Zagreb. There are heaps of fresh fruit and vegetables and down on the lower section down the first of all those steps we can also see the flower sellers. There are some junky bits, but not nearly as much as we have seen in many areas. Everyone is very busy and if only our markets at home could be like these ones - fresh farm cheeses - hard and soft, figs fresh and dried - some tied with bay leaves in garlands, mounds of walnuts freshly shelled and never bitter. Ah, the tastes, and the smells! THIS is what markets are all about!!

Down behind the Dolac market is St Mary's Church - it looks a little forlorn with its leaves buried forecourt where the moss is already growing. We wander around to the front and the only reason we even got to look inside was because there was a veritable army of lady parishioners cleaning it with a vigour that was amazing. I think that they were all trying to be the one who cleaned the hardest and fastest - gosh, they can come do my cleaning any old time! This church is much more sombre than the cathedral (maybe fittingly) and had only its original lights fitted with electric lights, so that it is still very sombre. Baroque in decoration, we can only get a quick glimpse.

From here we head down some of those stairs to Tkalčićeva Street where we meet Marija Jurić Zagorka - a local suffragette and author who wrote a series books titled The Witch of Grić based on the witch trials of the 17th to 18th centuries that Empress Maria Teresa later abolished. She stands in the ground beneath a lovely sundial that is the only part of the rendering on its wall - the rest has crumpled and fallen. In fact, there are lots and lots of statues throughout Zagreb, paying homage to all sorts of locals - minor and major, who have impacted on the lives of the community. This street was the separation point of property owned (and I think still is) by the church and that owned by the secular community.

The meter needs a feeding again, and so we head back to the car, passing through part of the remains of the medieval walls into Ribnjak Park which was the original site of the Bishop's ponds where the priests caught their Friday fish! Now it is a green space with a lady trying to train a very enthusiastic dog and children on a playground.

From here we walk past the Franciscan Church where it is said that St Francis himself lived for a time. Like most of Franciscan buildings, it is much simpler than other churches. There is a florist tying garlands on to the pews for a wedding later today and one of the monks is sweeping. He willingly lets us take some photos including this mural which depicts St Francis being welcomed into Zagreb. A church has been on this site since the 13th century and this church, rebuilt in the 17th century was damaged in a great earthquake in 1880 but repaired.

Back at the car, we are pulling out of the parking spot with another car is inching in behind us - yep, parking sure is a pain here. The other 'attraction' we want to have a look at today is the city's main cemetery - Mirogoj. It crowns the top of a hill and is known for its beautiful park and its amazing wall topped with multiple cupolas at its entry. Well, it takes us well over an hour to find it. Sure it crowns a hill. But so do many many mature trees! And that big wall - well, it is on the other side of the hill, so can't be seen from below. By the time we find the correct road in the honeycomb of narrow winding ones that go up into the hilly area, the light is fading fast. We do see the cupolas along the top of the wall and the impressive entry facade, but decide that a good look in the light of tomorrow is warranted (now that we know where it is!).

One suprise today has been the amount of rubbish and debris that is sitting on the streets of Zagreb. We are not sure whether there is one of those annual council clean-ups happening or what. A lot of the debris appears to be from offices while there is also rubbish from renovations. And there are lots of people scavanging and there appears to be a rather healthy trade in lumber - with Romany people seeming to be the most active sellers.

Once we get out of the city area, we come upon more of that high density housing that we have become accustomed to seeing in Europe. While there are smaller apartment blocks on the CBD fringe, it is not too far out that they mushroom to those huge soul-less blocks that see thousands of people living in very close proximity to each other, relying on public transport and the provision of close by shopping facilities. Gosh, I know that I could never live in these. And they are suffering the same fate of many of the buildings in Zagreb - decrepit, grey, broken and falling plaster. It combines to make it look very very grubby. Other areas are pristinely clean and we see a whole parade of Canadian and Croatian flags flying. We rack our brains trying to work out what the link is and find out later on the news that the Governor General of Canada is visiting - ahhh, politics - should have known it would be something like that!

After 1.9 kms walked this afternoon, tonight we are staying at the Hotel Stella. Funny shaped room, but it means that Donna has a little space of her own! They do not have a restaurant and have recommended a the Turk Restaurant a couple of kilometres away. Despite it being Saturday night, they are not very busy. None of us are really hungry so we just order mains. Michael and I shared Teleće pečenje s police krumpir (Roast veal with roast potatoes) while Donna had Teleće Turopoljski odrezak (Veal escalope Turopolje style – mushrooms in cream sauce) and we shared Pirjano povrće (Braised vegetables) and Šampinjoni na žaru (Grilled mushrooms). And if Donna's meal last night was a highlight, then this was the opposite for her, although the Roast Veal Michael and I had was moist and delicious in a light tomato based gravy.

Caves and conflicts and cars

2009-10-23T16:22:00.022+02:00

Yesterday when we checked in here at the Guesthouse Franjkovic, there was a notice on the wall stating that the Babac cave was the underground equivalent to the grandeur of the Plitvice Lakes above ground. We had initially thought to go and take a look at them yesterday before the worsening weather saw us hurry to see the lakes.

We leave the guesthouse where Lillian and her husband made us very comfortable in a large ground floor room (yay, no stairs) and saw us on our way with a large jar of their own honey. We are headed in to the Croatian capital Zagreb today to have a look before Donna flies out at some ungodly hour on Monday morning. Can't believe that her two weeks is almost up!

The day is still damp although thankfully a little warmer than yesterday and we all have dry clothes :-). We program Kate for Zagreb avoiding the motorways - I mean, there is no real benefit to getting anywhere in the wet. We head north on a road that is a highway but thankfully it is not restricted by view detracting safety barriers or divisions or huge sound shields on the roadsides. So we get to see lots of the countryside as we travel, a little slower than normal to take account of the weather conditions.

And just a little time after we leave the guesthouse we see the signs for Barac's Cave. Well hey, gee - at least it will be dry in the cave huh! We turn off and travel the 7.8 kms along a narrow winding road up into the hills and then down the other side. At the parking place it is still 500 m to the cave down a rocky path. Taking the umbrellas as a precaution against the heavy clouds bursting down on us, off we head. At the base of the path is a kiosk where you register for the cave tour. Turns out that they are only operated on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at this time of the year - thank goodness it is Friday! BUT, it is still a climb up the hill in the forest to get to the mouth of the cave. Michael goes to suss it out and comes back to say that the path is uneven on timber log steps with lots of autumn leaf litter. Well - I know my limitations, so I walk back up to the car disappointed not to see the cave. But the most important thing is that Donna gets to see inside her first cave - I had not realised that she had never been in a cave before. I am nice and warm and dry in the car, reading, when they come back up the hill under umbrellas in the rain that has started to fall again. A good stop!

The report back to me? Spectacular for Donna and even Michael was impressed. Caverns with stalactites, stalagmites and stalacnites (columns), a mound of guano (bat droppings) that was over 300 years old in a cave system that houses more than 10,000 bats all balanced by stories of prehistoric bears with teeth up to 20 cms long and a human skeleton and military machinery next to it that appears to date it to one of the wars. Turns out that the shell of the cave is very thin with tree roots growing through and they think that the next major shake could bust another entry through into the cave. However both Michael and the guide concur that our Jenolan Caves back at home are far more impressive.

So we head back to the highway and north again for Zagreb. We are stunned at the number of buildings even out here in the rural countryside that show the damage of the Croatian War for Independence, known locally as the Croatian H omeland War. We can't imagine what it must be like to either be evacuated in the time of war from a peaceful life in the country, or worse still, to be in your home as it is being fired on or shelled. In every town we pass through there are multiple buidlings - civic as well as homes that are pock marked or have holes in walls from mortars. Some buildings are abandoned with large holes or collapsed roofs, or holes that have broken right through walls. Others though are still being lived in - even with this daily reminder of horrors that are still so recent - the war was resolved in 1995 - my god, that is in OUR recent past.

It is so sad to see the evidence of intolerance town after town after town.
When we reach the towns that make up Karlovac - especially Turanj the damage is the greatest we have seen. We pass a collection of military hardware - tanks, guns, planes in a park but are passed before I can turn in. So we swing back around to stop and have a look, despite the rain. Despite the rain, Michael gets out to have a better look.

The park is a collection of the carcasses of buildings, tanks, APC's, pontoon carrier and aircraft. This is a forlorn place, I suppose more so due to the persistent downpour and to a banner which proudly lauds: "Location of the Collection Future Museum of the Homeland War". These relics are the remnants of a struggle which ravaged this beautiful country between 1991-1995.

The buildings are just shells, pockmarked by bullet and shell impacts; walking through them is eerie to say the least. I won't dwell too long on this visit, as the signatures of the "Homeland War" is evident throughout Croatia. However, I will state from the four days I spent touring Belgium, the Somme Valley and visiting the remnants of the 1914-18 conflict and those forests of marble has provided me with a different perspective on military sites and monuments.

Michael returns to the car, and we prepare to move onto Zagreb. Well, we weren't going anywhere - the car wouldn't start! Stupid me has left the headlights on which had obviously sapped most of the available power to turn the engine over. I guess it was light enough for us not to notice they were on while we sat in the car waiting for Michael who was gone for only about 10 minutes. We had interior lights, but as for momentum we weren't moving. Michael sets off in search of assistance, and heads for a cafe/bar located next to the park.

The proprietor speaks very little English, however Michael makes himself understood that we were in need of help. The proprietor gets on his mobile and phones a friend who will be around in "5-10 minuta". Anyhow, this fellow (who also speaks no English) turns up in a blue VW Combi, and after much gesticulating and hand signals 'jump starts' our car. He indicates we should leave the engine running '5 minuta', then he disappears into the cafe/bar. Michael follows him and shouts him a beer or two to follow the earlier one we could smell on his breath when he arrived. Our gallant knight reappears and checks the car again, Michael slips him a handsome reward for his trouble whereby the fellow sets off back to where he came and we resume our journey. Such accommodating and helpful people in a land that is so beautiful. Lets hope that conflict in this part of the world is done - just look how lovely it is.

I'm not taking any more chances at this point of being stuck on back roads, so on to the motorway for the last 50 kms to Zagreb. Its not long before we are driving through the outskirts. Lots of high density apartment blocks reminiscent of those we saw in Slovakia. They are grey, drab, appear to be covered in mould or with concrete render peeling off. What is it about these countries that use cheap render? Or is there some hidden nasty that we are breathing in that causes concrete cancer????

We don't actually go in to the city en route to the Hotel Paradise. And as we check in the 'boss' (owner?) tells us that his daughter is living in Sydney and that he talks to her on Skype regularly - seems like nearly everyone has a link to us all!
The hotel staff recommend the nearby Zelen Dvor Restaurant for dinner and so in a light drizzle off we set. They are quite busy - always a good sign, and there are plenty of staff to tend to your every wish.
Entrees:
Njoki s gorgonzolom (Gnocchi with gorgonzola cheese) Michael
Njoki u umaku od škampa (Gnocchi with scampi sauce) Donna
Pohovani sir lokalne (Breaded local cheese) Maria
Mains:
Paprika Ramstek 'St Petersburg' s votke i vrhnje (Pepper rumpsteak 'St Petersburg' with vodka and cream) Michael
Pileći file s umakom od tartufa i rezanci (Chicken fillet with Truffle sauce and pasta) Donna
Weiner šnicl (Weiner schnitzel) Maria
Without a doubt, Donna's entree was the best meal of the night - actually, it came close to being the best meal of her trip with us - certainly one of the top two. The bill was very reasonable as well - what a bonus.
After coffee we return to the hotel in drizzle.

A gaggle of gorges and water everywhere ...

2009-10-22T01:17:00.035+02:00

Sad news this morning - Gen is online when we log on to have a final email check and tells us that the body of her former school mate has been found. Thanks to everyone for your thoughts and prayers. And as if to mirror the news, the day is drab, grey and raining over the water.

Now, Croatia = cats. We do not think we have ever seen so many cats in one country. And while some of them are obviously not 'owned' (yeah right, a dog has masters, a cat has slaves so when is a cat ever owned?!), most of them are friendly enough and will let you pet them. Maybe they have the status of a sacred cow? As we leave Aparthotel Buratovic I say one last goodbye to their cat as well.

This morning we thought that on our way over to Plitvice Lakes National Park we would take a drive and have a look at the gorges across the inlet from Vinjerac that have been fascinating us with their changing moods in the different lights of the day. We have looked it up on the web and we are heading to the gorges of Velika Paklenica and Mala Paklenica in the Paklenica National Park which are part of the South Velebit mountains and their wilds. The drive is only 25 minutes from where we are and en-route we pass a Baka (yiayia or grandmother) tending her small flock of ten sheep just up the road from us.

From here we drive around the edge of the inlet across the amazing Stari Most Malenica - a steel bridge that spans 315 m length over a 50 m high chasm. There is the gear(?) for bungee jumping across on the other side of the bridge. Now I KNOW our WH&S guys would die of shock. Where the mechanism is bolted in to the bridge path, you can see that it has pulled! There were gates at either end of the bridge that would allow them to close the bridge, but we are not sure that it has anything to do with the bungee jumping - it might just be for high winds! Anyway, wile everything about this bridge is amazing, it looks up the gorge to an even larger bridge - steel and concrete. I can't even find the name for this bridge - it seems it might be a new bridge built to partner this one.

So we move further on to the entrance to the larger of the two gorges within the park - Velika Paklenica. This must be a very popular spot in the summer as the infrastructure is well developed. There is quite a bit of parking and an information and ticket booth that is open even on such a dismal day as today. We drive as far as we can into the park (2km beyond the entrance). Right from here the gorge is very evident and there are climbers getting ready to scale the cliffs - it is a very popular climbing venue it appears with over 300 route of varying grades available. The weather is not great, but Michael wants to walk in to the gorge. Donna and I are not so sure - the path is steep and rocky and that rain ain't too far away. Off he sets and Donna and I take a short amble (about half a kilometre) to watch some of the climbers.

(Michael's turn) The gorge during a clear and sunny day must be an absolute wonder to admire. However, the weather doesn't dilute the magnificent architecture of nature. The first 100m of the walk is on a fairly flat gravel surface, and to the left is a kiosk/cafe which has been dug into the cliff face. A few metres on, a set of toilets which have also been dug into the face. The ablutions are fortunately of the flushing kind and not just squat holes.

Walking further on, the terrain becomes more challenging, as the flat surface is suddenly replaced by an uneven rocky track where begins a gradual steep incline. Making my way along this slippery surface there are keen abseilers preparing for their respective upward climb. By thuis time the wind has increased and blowing a fine mist of rain. As I follow the ever rising path, I come across even keener wayfarers trekking their way to their respective destinations. The rain has started to increase in intensity by this time, and their are more abseilers making preparations!

The gorge presents a stark but captivating picture with the valley being encroached on both sides by towering cliffs and crags. Vegetation is in abundance, which appears to have colonised along a dry river bed - which I assume will no longer BE arid after this rain. As the rain continues to fall, the cliff faces glisten with the moisture and the red oxides develop a deeper colour. On a clear day the oxides must just glow in the sunlight presenting the cliff faces with a marbling effect. I pass tunnels which are being dug into the cliff faces but for what purpose is not identified and entry is prevented by secure shoring.

The rain is beginning to intensify as is the wind, and yet I am greeting more adventurers who seem to be undaunted by the deteriorating weather. I ask one the this group where they are headed; and I'm informed they hope to reach a 'Wayfarers Hut' which is about six kilomteres ahead. It is there they will possibly spend the night before pressing onwards, to complete their 30k trek over the next couple of days. I guess the route will be fairly strenuous?

After half an hour, the rain has begun to bucket down and the wind is howling. I guess it is good enough reason to head back to the car. The return journey is somewhat longer as the path has become quite slippery and treacherous. Albeit, the weather hasn't daunted the abseilers as they are still making their preparations! Oh, well, whatever rocks one's boat....

We make a quick call into the Mala (small) Paklenica gorge. There is way less infrastrcture here and the path is less defined. In fact there is a warning sign announcing 'dangerous mountain paths' and another with 'climbing prohibited'. OK, so they prefer you to explore the larger gorge. We don't want to spend too much time here so after a few quick photos that includes some of workers crushing and leveling a rock fall with a noisy old grader creaking along on its tracks and an odd assortment of domestic tools such as shovels, a rake and a small hand held hacksaw, we push on. The weather is still s***.

And so onward we push. We climb up and over the Velebit Mountains with some stunning views marred by the weather. At one point there is a pipe from a hydro water scheme that come from inside the mountain above us and then just runs straight down the side of the sheer drop to the valley far below where it takes off like a snake seeking water, heading for a lake we can see.

Once we are over the mountains it is like we have entered a different world. All the rocks on the eastern side of the range seem to have been picked up and hurled by some legendary giant over the mountains to the western coast with some of them maybe falling into the sea as the smaller islands. Coming over the top, we travel through the clouds being formed up here in the nursery that is the higher altitudes.

Over this side the land is not quite so haggard - the hills are more rounded and there is a lot more grazing country and subsequently a lot more livestock. Funnily enough on the western area we have just left we saw plenty of yellow warning signs about cattle on the road but only ever saw sheep. Here we see the cattle and I'm looking out for the sheep signs! Maybe the cattle signs are cheaper!!

We see our first signs that are the reminders of the Homeland War or the Croatian War of Independence with a shelled building painted with UN signs. This was to be the first of many unfortunately. I guess that the events that ended 14 years ago are still very recent both in history and in the memories of local populations.

Seems like today is a day for the national parks of Croatia as we head towards the Plitvice Lakes National Park. First we pass Entrances no 1 and 2 to go and find our accommodation witout seeing a single sign of the natural wonders that are supposed to be the lakes and waterfalls. We have a little trouble finding the accommodation - we have found the correct road, and are definielt int he right area as the name is on a number of buildings. Michael seeks out info and the family Baka finally points us back down the road (she speaks no English and our Croatian is nowhere near good enough to understand anything she is saying). We then see the brother who points us around the front of the correct building just as the owner turns up from work! Seems that everyone out here has a room to let with the Zimmer (Rooms) sign on just about every building - fancy or not.

Anyway, once we have checked in with Lilliana, she tells us that the weather is better today than it is forecast for tomorrow!! You have to be kidding. So we decided to hightail it back to the park. Lilliana suggests that Entrance 2 would be easier as you get a glimpse of some of the lakes and falls very close to the car park. So off we go. The car park is almost empty - as you would expect on a cold wet day. You park on one side of what is essentially a very busy road (highway) and cross via a timber footbridge. In this weather, with lots of fallen leaves rotting underfoot it is slippery so we cross on the road level instead. As it is so late and the weather so terrible, the park entrance ticket seller gives us discounted tickets. We only have to walk about 50 m to get our first glimpse of this wondrous site. The Plitvice Lakes National Park is the most visited tourist attraction within this fascinating little country. We understand why now!

The weather has set in and the rain continues albeit lightly. But the ground is very sloping and uneven. The last thing I want to do is slip and fall, so rather disappointed, I head back for the warmth of the coffee shop and souvenir stand. But Donna really really wanted to see these, so I encourage Michael and her to continue to go a little way. And as these photos show (although they really don't do the area justice) this is one of the most beautiful places. Check out their website photos on the link above too.

Anyway, Donna and Michael head out down the path. At some point they separate and go along different paths. The rain is getting heavier, but each of them wants to go just to the next corner. Eventually, the time gets closer for us to re-meet and they come back separately. Both drenched. I mean, like drowned rats. Dripping drowned rats.

They both excitedly exhange the high points of their respective jaunts. Donna not only got to see three of the lakes with falls between, but also some caves. Michael saw the tallest falls in Croatia that are on the first photo of this set, but from the bottom. Anyway, they were on a real high! And I was the dry one.

So we returned to the guest house where thankfully there was a heated towel rail so that we could dry their sodden clothes fully. We drove down the road a little to a small restaurant - Restaurant Degenija - even though it was very early - 5:30 pm.
We began with Cold mesni narezak - pršut, domaći sir, sir Basa (Cold meat platter - smoked ham, local cheese, Basa cheese) and Pohani sir s tartar umakom (Breadcrumbed cheese with Tartare Sauce) before moving on to our mains.
Mains:
Teleći odrezak-Degenija - odrezak s umakom, šunkom i sirom i povrćem (Veal Escalope-Degenija – veal escalope with sauce, ham and cheese and vegetables) Michael
Teletina Cordon Bleu s francuskim krumpirići (Veal Cordon Bleu with French fries) Donna
Čevapčići - Hashed meso njoki s francuskim krumpirići (Hashed meat dumplings with French fries) Maria
The food was fresh and hot and hearty - just what we need on a cold autumn evening. After coffee we return to the guesthouse and warm beds. Ahh what a day. My brain is filled with wondrous sights!

The mad scientist of an architect

2009-10-21T22:05:00.028+02:00

It had dawned overcast but not raining and quite a bit warmer than the last couple of days. Still, there is a bit of a breeze so I continue to wear a long sleeved top - don't want the head cold that Donna has so generously shared to develop any further. After a light breakfast of muesli with banana and an apple, we head into Vinjerac to have a drive through look at the town - that takes all of 3 minutes! It is a lovely looking little fishing village that has grown to accommodate those summer people who have discovered it with its magnificent Adriatic coast location.

The Aparthotel Buratovic sits just outside the city centre with lovely views over the water and the Velebit Mountains across the inlet. Their facilities are great and I imagine that they would do a roaring trade in the summer months. There are a couple of other guests here as well so they do some trade in the colder months which must be good for the family.

We took a drive over to Nin - only went there because of the remnants of the Roman salt flats but instead found the most significant archaelogical site in the Adriatic corridor. You drive to the town which, for all intents and purposes is an island, over a causeway that has been developed over one of the salt flat ridges. The salt flats themselves are well, flat and shallow. The walls are more earthern than constructed of stone as the ones at Ston. And it was then that we got a bit of an eye-opening.

The town of Nin, like many in this area is walled. Here, the town has spilled out of the walls to the shore on the opposite side of the inlet and a bridge with three narrow arches (really just for water flow - no boat would get through!) connects the two sides. There is a lot of reconstruction work happening and as we drive around the outside of the wall, there are lots of pieces of the original wall still standing, some being braced and one piece being worked on - well, the men were there, sitting and contemplating the wonderful view, but hey why shouldn't they!

We park the car and walk back to have a look at the surviving City Gate. This one dates back to the 16th Century but when we walk in, there is the remnants of a much older one dating back to the 1st century and the roman occupation. There is hardly a soul around. The old town has been well restored and underfoot is all that beautiful white stone polished by the feet of the millenia. Some of the buildings have ben constructed using the rubble of previous buildings in the area. So we see bits of carved portals inserted into building walls and decorations from previous royal properties now having the pride of place above new entry ways and doors. We walk a little further into the town, heading for the campanile (bell tower) - still deserted, they was one older man sitting against a wall - the only person we saw while we walked through the main area. Much of the old town has been restored or reconstructed and it looks like someone really cares about the town and its place in history.

We pass the sign to the 'Smallest Cathedral in the world' and really need to check this out! The church was called the Church of the Holy Cross and dates back to the 9th century. And yes, it is t-i-n-y. It has been de-consecrated but an the archaelogical dig around the building exposed a whole world of interred bodies in the adjacent necropolis. Very interesting. Across the road from the cathedral was a Statue to Grgur Ninski (Gregory of Nin), a 10th century bishop who defied the Pope and introduced the Croatian language into the church here. Rubbing his toes is said to bring good luck, so we rubbed away (hmmm - don't know if it worked - it has been raining ever since!)

Back around in the main square, the Museum was closed but when walking through their courtyard looking at the capitals, column remnants and grave steles, the curator kindly opened it for us. It was so much more than we could have anticipated with items dating from 100,000 BC (pre-historic times) through the modern day - 1600s. There are examples from every age of occupation including three boats and remnants dating back to the 11th century! With the timber still fully intact on one of them!!! Lots of the displays relate to burial sites and the materials that they found in with the bodies - jewellery, earthenware and girdles. All too soon we had been right through the displays. We also learn that the seawall also sheltered a necropolis with hundreds of bodies that were later discovered. And in the watercourse that separates the town from the salt pans there is another old Croatian boat.

From Nin we are heading into Zadar and stop en-route so that Michael can have a walk over to the very unsual and interesting St. Nicolas Church in the Prahulje field. Legend says that seven kings were crowned in Nin. After the coronation each king would go on horseback to this church and present himself to the nation vowing to defend his homeland.

And so, in to Zadar - the Cathedral and St Donats are still closed we are told come back at 4. Went back, still shut. We strolled the back streets and by chance happened upon the open doors for restoration works into the Fransican monastery and its quite beautiful cloister complete with deep well. We are sure that the boss was berating his worker for leaving the door open so that people could get in - but now that we were there, we are determined at least to have a peek outside. The buildings are locked up tight - and there is supposed to be an amazing library of manuscripts somewhere here behind those closed doors.

From here, we could hear intermittent blast of mournful music and remembered that there was something written in Donna's book on Croatia about a Sea Organ in Zadar, so we went to investigate. This was amazing and like nothing any of us have ever seen or heard before. If you would like to hear what it sounds like, this is best video I could find (we didn't have the video camera with us!) - but it was much more active today with choppy water and a stiff wind. The water and wind belted out a lively tune that chased up and down the organ keys! And if you look up behind the steps that lead into the waters of the Adriatic, you will see the marble and timber seating that is reminiscent of a keyboard!

Not only was there the Sea Organ on the waterfront, there was also a very new monument titled 'The Greeting to the Sun'. Set right out on the point where Zadar juts out to welcome the Adriatic into its embrace, this innovative work is by the same architect who designed the Sea Organ. It encompasses a huge disc comprised of lots of solar cells that put on a light show at dusk in sympathy with the sea organ. Too bad we only found out that little bit of information tonight - because we could have gone back to see it. Bugger.

Around the outside diameter of the 21m disc is engraved with the names of the saints after whom the city's churches were named and the delination and time of the sunset on their date of birth at this place. It connects outer space (galaxy) with past space (history) with present space (here and now) with wet space (sea organ) and with deep inner space (bloody mind boggling)! The architect must be crazy to have all that in his head space and making these connections!!! That little gem all came from Donna! Maybe he had a couple of cans of Mad Bat under his belt! And leading away from the installation there is a solar line with all the planets bar Pluto (Michael walked way up the promenade but couldn't find it - although as it is to scale, it could be miles away.)

Now being 4:20 pm we returned to the Cathedral to try to have a look at St Donats but the man on the door was adament that it was closed. After asking some youngsters in the seminary across the square they suggested in broken English to try closer to 7 pm. So off to have a drink before the museum opens at 5 pm. The Archaelogical Museum of Zadar is closely connected to the one at Nin - primarily because this is where much of the finds were made. Many of the items referred to at Nin are on display here in Zadar and we can take photos to our hearts content here! Michael drools over the statue of Ceasar Augustus on display opposite the entrance door. Most of the collection mirrors the set out at Nin, so we don't spend quite as long here - oh, and the roman collection is still being set up - we did see lots of segments of mosaic floor leaning against a wall!

Michael goes around to check and finds the Cathedral open! It is quite plain and unadorned, but does have some truly beautiful altars. We only have 10 minutes before it is closed (I think it was only open for the Rosary that is being said by some local parishioners). We can't get into St Donats - it appears that it is only opened for concerts after I do some net research. This is really disappointing, especially for Donna, as this was the initial purpose of our visit to the City. It is architecturally very interesting and partially constructed from the ruins of the earlier roman forum on which site is stands.

Dinner at Seafood Restaurant Foša around at the marina that is set in the last remaining piece of the former moat around the city.
Appetiser - a prawn and salsa
Entrees:
Blue Fish Platter - svježe sardine na krevet od krumpira i zelene salate od graha (Blue Fish Platter - fresh sardines on a bed of potato and green bean salad) Michael
Dimljeni losos sa krem sirom i losos kavijar (Smoked salmon with cream cheese and salmon caviar) Donna
Teleći terrine s Pistacija u svitak Dalmatinski pršut s biser luk u Acetto Balsamic (Veal terrine with Pistachio in a roll of Dalmatian ham with pearl onions in Acetto Balsamic) Maria
Mains:
Lignje na žaru Jadranu krevet dalmatinskog stila blitva lišće (Grilled Adriatic Squid on a bed of Dalmatian style Swiss Chard leaves) Michael
Baby biftek s tartufima služio na krevetu u pire od krumpira s tartufima sos (Baby beefsteak with truffles served on a bed of mashed potatoes with a truffle gravy) Donna
Žaru Adriatic Dory sautéed s povrćem (Grilled Adriatic Dory with sauteed vegetables) Maria
Desserts:
Rožata - puding od karamela (Rožata - caramel pudding) Michael
Voće minestrone sa Sorbet od limuna (Fruit minestrone with lemon sorbet) Donna
Limun krema s javorov sirup (Lemon cream with maple syrup) Maria
We finished with coffees before waddling back to the car via a short stop to admire the city walls by the lights of night!

Stonewalled!

2009-10-20T08:51:00.022+02:00

Woo hoo the sun is out and the thermometer has pushed through the 6°C barrier! Breakfast was good - though down three flights of outdoor stairs to the restaurant and back up after brekky. Watered down Tang, cereals, eggs scrambled and/or fried and little frankfurter sausages as well as cold meats and cheeses. Yoghurt and coffee finished us off. The Germans were in for brekky too - some before us, some after. Anyway, it was well before 9 am when we had finished and we are out the door right on 10. Villa Nova was a nice introduction to Herzegovina. Neum is quite a surprise - there are literally hundreds of apartments and hotels. It is a lovely spot on a finger of the Adriatic Sea, but just not what I had expected!

Given that the sun is out and the wind is not, we are headed back to Ston to walk some of the walls and have a little look see. Now, when we get there, those walls look might long and very very steep. Michael is brave, Donna and I are not!!! So off he sets. Its not long before we see him as a mere speck in his bright orange jacket - if it weren't for that, we could not have seen him at all. Donna and I head off to have a look around Ston - and are done in about 20 minutes! I guess that it is their off season and not much is open - although it really doesn't look like there is much to open. There are quite a few restaurants, although we only see one open at this hour of the day. A couple of old buildings that house the remnants of rescued masonry from others that are either in ruins or no longer exist are all else that hold any interest. There is an old church, but it is in ruins and boarded off.

We walk through the only standing city gate to see the salt ponds across the road. While the ponds still exist, they do not appear to be the ones that are actively being used at the moment. However, on the rusted rail line at the front of the closest pool is a rusted and timbered salt cart - full of salt. It is dirty and caked and neither of us are keen to taste it, but it can be nothing else. Guess that before it would be used, it would be washed. This however is here as a display I would imagine.

(Michael here) Seeing the walls from a distance one could be excused from assuming they looking at a section of the Great Wall in China. This is no exaggeration, until you get closer to this wonder. Like the Great Wall, the walls of Ston scale the steep incline of the mountains and meet at a higher fort.

Before climbing the walls, you get a feeling that this amazing feat of engineering evolved through a siege mentallity. The whole structure possesses all of these elements: a Barbican, bastions, redoubts, listening posts, interconnecting towers and crenulations. However, it's these snaking walls which takes one's breath away.

Maria and Donna opt out from taking a stroll along the walls, albeit, I part with 30Kn for the priviledge to do so. As I hand over the fee, the ticket seller instructs me which sections of the wall I can explore and asks whether I suffer from a heart condition. It is sufficient warning to alert me for the type of exertion I can expect! Regrettably, I'm restricted to the lower walls, as those which snake upwards to the summit have been closed to the public due to ongoing repairs.

However, I set forth and brace myself for the upward climb. I must admit the climb is quite arduous, considering I have scaled towers with over 800 stairs during our travels. The acute gradient is not realised until see the angle of the incline and indeed walk it. 'Rest' stops are positoned at regular intervals which allow us 'wayfarers' to admire the view.

Upon arriving at the central bastion, you get clear image of the expanse of the fortress (and at the same time providing a respite for one to catch their breath). In the 'baillie', between the bastion and the old town, the foundations of mediaeval buildings can be discerned amongst the undergrowth. Many of the foundations have been converted into gardens by some residents. The vista rolling out beyond the old town also took in the broad acreage of the salt ponds. Anyhow, I continue with the downward journey which had taken me to the lower bastion and outer barbican. It is apparent that quite a large amount of consolidation and restoration work is ongoing. The outer barbican appears to have had extensive work completed on its walls and parapets.

It is at this juncture where my excursion along the walls ends...well, not quite, as I do an about turn and retrace my steps along the wall.

In the meantime, Donna and I have headed back for the car - the breeze is cooler still now. There is a dog who has taken a liking to us. I'm not sure whether he has been abandoned, or lives somewhere else in the town. He has definitely been trained to heel and sit though, and to follow - closely!! We can't shake him off. Anyway, we stop for some souvenirs and when I call in to the Tourist Information office the only book they have on the area is in French - ah well, guess I will be brushing up on my French again - just when I thought that I had finished with it for the moment. All good! Back to the car and we have to get in in a hurry as the dog goes off to check out a tour bus that has just pulled in - phew! We are not there long when we see Michael coming back. Talk about good timing.

So we leave Ston and head north back through the border crossing between Croatia and Herzegovina where this time we are stopped at both sides for passport checks. Sometimes I think they just like to see who is driving a car from the other 'side'. Anyway, back through Neum and we are back into Croatia headed north past the turn off for Split towards Zadar. We reach Zadar in good time after a trip of 3½ hours that included one fuel stop and a few brief stops for photos. Again we are surprised at the landscape both of this area of Croatia and of Bosnia Herzegovina that we are skirting. It is (all in the one vista) rugged mountains and broad open fertile plains. As we come down onto the delta of the Neretva River that is the main tangerine growing area, we stop to buy some at a roadside stall. They are a variety of mandarin and peel like a mandarin that we would regularly know, but have way way more flavour - more tart as well.

A lot of the trip was on the motorway that has been partly constructed that when finished will run the length of Croatia. There has been some comment on the local news lately about it with interviews with we think the Croatian Transport Minister with lots of signs that seem to indicate that it would be finished by 2008 with sad smiley faces. Don't know the full details - it was all in Croatian and double dutch to us.

Anyway we get to Zadar about 2 pm and went to have a look around. We found the Church of St Donat that brought us here, but it is closed. There are a number of other churches (all closed) and the ruins of a Roman Forum that we look at and Michael makes a foray up the Campanile. So, planning another day here tomorrow, we head to the supermarket for some supplies for tonight and then plan Kate to take us to Vinjerac where we are staying. It is about 40 minutes away, on the other side of the peninsula.

And as we are driving down there (onto yet another promontory that juts into the Adriatic Sea) we are greeted with the most amazing sight of the setting sun reflecting off the Velebit Mountains on the opposite side of the water - all pinks and greys. Oh yes, and bright whites where SNOW has fallen over the last couple of days - yes, winter is well and truly on the way! And again we share the road with a herd of sheep being moved to another pasture - in fact, judging by the amount of spoor on the road, these sheep are moved frequently - as they would need to be, the pickings are only some very slim shrubs.

We have booked accommodation at the Aparthotel Buratovic and when we arrive (thankfully it is well signposted as Kate cannot find any of the streets in Vinjerac!) we are greeted by Martjia who is very very warm and friendly and tells us that after watching 'McLeods Daughters' on TV she has wanted to visit Australia. She presses us for information while showing us the apartment. It is very comfortable and thankfully equipped with an air conditioner as the temperature drops.

The last light is fading as we cook up some rice with chicken in thai sauce and veges and tuck in. Tomorrow we are heading back into Zadar.

Great wall - what great wall?

2009-10-19T20:06:00.009+02:00

It continues to piss down here and we woke this morning not only to pouring rain, but also to the wind howling up and down the staircases from each level of the Villa Antea apartments. And to add insult to injury, it has turned quite chilly thank you – 8°C. Brrrrr. We know that it is autumn and well and truly heading for winter, but did it have to happen so suddenly. When we left Restaurant Komina last night we went down the hill looking for somewhere to buy some milk and butter, unsuccessfully. So this morning breakfast for Donna is cheese and crackers so she can take her medication.

Once we leave the apartments we stop in Babin Kuk at a small restaurant / café bar and have omelettes and fresh orange juice. Michael has coffee while Donna and I have hot chocolates, that are not really served all that hot! But that is the same anywhere in Europe – they serve hot drinks a little warmer than body temperature, so you can drink them rather than sip them. And while each have their merits, I still think that I prefer the way we serve them at home – hot, hot, hot.

As we head away from Dubrovnik there is yet another big ship in port – you wonder how they can come through the narrow channels – guess that they are deep and that does the trick. That makes a total of seven we have seen – more even than we saw moored in Barcelona all those months ago.

There is no Red Bull here in Croatia or Herzegovina – but you can have a Mad Bat in its place according to the billboards that adorn the roadside. Not sure which of the two is more appealing to me. I guess a red bull has less of a mental impact than worrying about the Lyssa virus that the mad bat might be carrying!

The trip to Ston is only about 50 kms but as we and a whole line of traffic get caught behind a petrol tanker on the single lane highway that hugs the coast, twisting and turning in and out above the small bays below, the trip lengthens to almost 2 hours. Still, we are in no hurry and if it weren’t for the driving rain, we would have been able to get some really good photos of those bays, filled with oyster and mussel farms.

We turn towards the coast to get to Ston to have a look at their 5 km long defense wall around the town. We have been proudly told that it is the longest in Europe (although we think that Carcassonne is longer, and even Toledo would come close). It is also claimed that it is the second longest after the Great Wall of China (which we clearly now know that are more than one wall). Whatever, it is very impressive and as we see it on a dismal day from below, it certainly reminds us of the Great Wall – and the temperature too reminds us of last December!

Its too wet to get out of the car and so we continue to drive seeing some more of the countryside before turning to head back towards Ston. We call in to have a look at the marina where the ferries leave for Miljet and on the way back in to Ston realise that the ponds we are looking down on are the famed Saltworks that have were started in Roman times and have continued uninterrupted to today. Trouble is that today there is no drying salt anywhere – all the ponds are well and truly water-logged!! They still look pretty impressive.

Heading back into Ston, we get a better look at the wall that contains not only the town, but also a thumping big hill as well. It does look like the Great Wall – going up and over the ridges. It too is very impressive – if it is fine tomorrow, we might come back so that Michael can walk part of it – but just ‘might’. Back on the road south, we called in briefly to Mala Ston (small Ston) set deep against the bay. It is here that we see evidence of the plentiful (in summer maybe) shellfish and also find the two restaurants that Maya has recommended to us – Bota and Kapetanova Kuča sitting side by side – supposedly they are the best for oysters. No-one is hungry though so we push on for Neum. And as we continue our trip along the coastal road, we are rewarded with views of those walls from across the water.

Neum in Bosnia Herzegovina is only 25 kms away. First stop is at a chemist for cold and flu tablets. Donna is fighting a head cold and has generously decided to share it! She says that she isn’t selfish and that she has an excuse with no resistance and wants to know what my excuse is! Funny, isn’t she – NOT. The assistant does not speak very good English and Donna can’t make herself understood for antacid tablets.

So, on to our accommodation for today at the Villa Nova Hotel. Thankfully the manageress speaks quite good English. “Would you like to book in for dinner?” she asks. “Yes please” we respond – not wanting to have to go out into the weather again. “OK, it is in the restaurant downstairs from 6:30 pm. We have a bus in as well.” Hmmm – looks like we are down to dinner early – don’t want the bus groupies to get all the tucker! Our unit is huge. Lounge with TV (and some sub-titled English channels), small kitchette with table and chairs and a separate bedroom. All with a balcony looking over the bay and islands. Would be magical in summer.

Dinner is down in the waterside restaurant - (well, today any room is waterside!) and is a buffet. There is a bus group in and we are the only other guests, so the buffet works well. We are served a bowl of home made chicken noodle soup to start - was don, was good! Then the buffet - breaded cheese, sardines and halibut, spinach and boiled potatoes, chicken wings and chevappi (skinless sausages), tomatoes boiled in broth, a mediterranean style vegetable dish, mashed potato, stuffed cabbage leaves (yummy) and salad. It was very good wholesome and honest food. We finished with 'pudding' - chocolate blancmange with whipped cream.

Back to our room and as I upload this blog, Donna and Michael are watching 'American Ninja' on the TV - a film from the early 1980s. (with a really annoying woman character!)

The Pearl of the Adriatic

2009-10-18T00:08:00.036+02:00

Dubrovnik is commonly known as the Pearl of the Orient and those who know me know that I love pearls with their rich warm lustre and gentle sophistication. It is still raining when we wake at 9 am and as the morning moves past 10 am it is getting darker rather than lighter. But we are buggered if we are staying put for a second day, so once we have brunch, we are off to brave it all - hopefully it will at least be a little more protected inside the city walls below us! Mind you, it's after 12:30 when we move!!

With the weather like it is, we decide to drive down to the old city and park (legally!) so that if the weather turns really bad we can make a dash back! As we get down to the city walls, there is not a single car park available so we decide to climb up and have a look at the view from above and return later.

Maya has shown us where there are panoramic views of the old city from a memorial high above on the edge of the hills. We wind our way up a long grade, but have not found the hairpins that are noted on the map. There are a number of points where you can pull in to take photos. Oh. My. God. what a vista - it is amazing. As we look back at the old city sitting snuggly inside its double walled barrier and washed by the waters of the Adriatic Sea at its feet, there are two liners that have just departed the city and are sailing off to the north. As one comes into the channel that separates Dubrovnik and island of Lokrum it lets out two long mournful blasts - as though it is reluctant to let the grips of the city behind. And as it sails out, there is another cruise ship about a further 20 kms out.

Anyway, we travel a little further up the road having turned back towards the City and pull in at a spot where a bus is parked, for more photos. There is a set of steps and Michael goes to have a look and as Donna and I watch him climb higher and higher, climbing up in a zig zag fashion, we realise that the hairpins on our map are a walking track rather than a road! He is gone for what seems like ages and Donna and I are chatting in the car. Turns out that at the top of the track, not only are there fantastic views over the city, there are also a couple of gun placements - probably left over from the 1991 war with Bosnia and Montenegro, and there is a fort further across, but access is barred by a fence.

Maya had also told us that there are usually three liners that call in to the city on a Saturday morning, so the old city was best avoided then! As it is, there are still another three cruise liners in the harbour as we come down off the hill and in to the old city. One of them is massive, the Cristal Serenity - Donna wants a photo to take home to Garry - think she wants a ride...

Anyway, on our second trip down into the city we find a parking spot within a block of one of the gates into the city. It is still windy, but the rain has cleared although it is still very overcast. We walk up a slight ramp into the city through the gate only to be greeted with steps, straight down to the sea level where the main square of the city lies, far below - about 80 - straight down! And to make matters worse, they are not all the same size, so I can't get into a good swing - bugger. Tell you, Donna and I were both out of breath by the time we got to the bottom.

When we get to the bottom, passing a couple of narrow streets on the way down, we are in a wider street lined with cafe tables, now mostly vacant, but I can just imagine that a few short hours ago when those ships were still in port that it would have been somewhat different. Maya however has told us that this first street is very touristy with prices to match and suggested that if we wanted something to eat to venture further in to the city. We are not hungry though, but do keep moving. The next street across is the Stradun, the main street - wide and lined with shops of all sorts. One end leads in to a square where the museum and clock tower attached to the city hall are located.

We can see a couple of churches from here - including what we assume to be the cathedral with it's dome surrounded by scaffolding. The roads and pavements are all in a lovely white stone reminiscent of Venice (probably because most of the stone that Venice has been built with came from Croatia). The feet of millions of people over thousands of years has polished it smooth so that even in the dim light of this overcast day, it still gleams. We see the museum but decide to start with what is indeed the Cathedral. Around through a larger square complete with statue and fountain with ornately carved bronze panels depicting scenes from their history.

The altars are baroque style, but not over the top and with its plain walls, there is not that feeling of excess that many baroque churches give. It is simple as far as a cathedral goes. Some artworks are on display, but more than anything, this is a working church. There are references to saintly relics, but they are not stored here. We take a walk through one of the City gates to the harbour and find ourselves admidst a couple of tour groups - uh, not for us! There are lots of cats here too - guess that where you find fishermen, you find cats waiting for their share of the fish! There is also reference to an earlier Byzantium church and photos of some frescoes, but if they still exist then they must be under the present church and are not accessible. So we move on. The other church is not open, so we go over to the muesum that is housed in the former Rector's Palace. The rector had a palace! Gosh, what was the Catholic church thinking!

Once we had finished we stopped at a small souvenir shop for a book on Dubrovnik and then a pastry shop for cheese and spinach fingers and a sweet cake or biscuit each. Across the road from this shop was a Greek Orthodox church - it looked like any other church, but the inside was rich with tapestries and gilded timber and a number of stunning icons. No photos allowed so I can't show you how lovely it was.

From here we walk around the streets, finding the Onofrio fountain a large fountain with 16 heads spouting water. In the middle ages, anyone arriving in the city had to wash their hands and feet at the fountain as a safeguard against disease. The fountain sits outside the Church of St Saviour (which was closed) built to give thanks for the city surviving the earthquake of 1520. It was also unscathed in the earthquake of 1667! And beside this is the Franciscan Monastery of Minor Brothers - one of the most important buildings in the city. This is a huge complex and contains the oldest continual chemist shop in Europe that was founded in 1317! As we enter, we come through the cloisters.

Now, we have seen quite a number of cloisters on our trip and this equals any of those. The wall arches are covered in the remnants of frescoes and there are sixty double columns with varied capitals - some display heads or animals. In the cloister garden is a 15th century gothic fountain with stone benches topped by hedges leading to it through a narrow break in the columns. And all around the ledge beneath the columns are inscriptions and graffiti as old as the ages, none of it modern. Being a Sunday, the pharmacy is closed unfortunately, but the museum is open and there are some pharmacy objects in here as well as a number of the relics mentioned in the Cathedral (such as reliquaries containing bones of saints, copes from the 14th to 16th centuries and silverwear from the local churches). The most amazing though for us is the collection of paintings and in particular the 15th century painting by an unknown painter titled 'Ecce Homo' - a painting of Christ that during restoration revealed another painting of a Madonna and Child under this one. The top painting has been partly cleaned off to reveal the earlier one - just stunning.

The rain is starting to sprinkle again now so we hurry through the western gate - the Pile Gate on and around which there are lots of statues of St Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik. His statue appears many time throughout the city, not just here. Leaving the City we pass under the Renaissance Lovrijenac tower and across a timber moat bridge that could be drawn up in times of conflict and then an arched stone bridge. From here we hurry along the outer walls back to the car, admiring the outer wall that surrounds the much larger inner wall with its towers and sentry posts. By the time we get back to the car the rain is falling again and so we head back to our apartment, thankful that we have had 5 - 6 hours of better weather to explore at least some of Dubrovnik's amazing old city.

Tonight we are going back to Restaurant Komin in Babin Kuk just up the road. We emailed a reservation request yesterday ordering their house meat specialities. When we get there, our waiter from the other night (whose name we have learned is Tonči) shows us to our reserved table just as the only other patrons are leaving. He informs us that our meal is cooked. Do we want entrees? No thank you! We are looking forward to the mains!!
Janjetina ispod sača (Roast lamb under the bell) Michael and Donna
Teletina ispod sača (Roast veal under the bell) Maria
They are served on a platter along with a mix of potatoes, onions and capsicum roasted with the meats. They are so delicious. The only other thing we have is a mixed salad - lovely and fresh, crisp and clean flavours. We finish with light and creamy cream caramels and some lively conversation with Tonči. And as we go back to the apartment at the end of the evening, the rain has set in with a vengeance and has been joined by her partner in crime - a howling, biting wind. Bugger.