Thursday, March 1, 2018

You take the high road, we're travelling the coast road . . .

The unit is warm and the bed warmer.  Michael is never a morning person and now on holidays, is happy to lie in.  Tomorrow will be a different story though - we need to be gone from here by 7 am to get to the Cathedral Cave in low tide - more about that later.


We head in to have a look around Balclutha and get fuel before we strike out to the west along the Southern Scenic Route.  This is a town of some 4,000 souls that swells to many more in the summer months.  It is known for its concrete span bridge that was built in the 1930's after the previous timber one washed away in a flood - kind of familiar story to someone from Maryborough! The Clutha River is the largest river in New Zealand by volume of water and the country's second longest.  The town is the main service centre for the surrounding pastoral lands.

Yesterday, we travelled in to Balclutha on the more northern national highway as the coastal road is longer, and we knew that we did not have time to make the most of it. So today we turn back from whence we came, albeit on a totally different road. And a bit like many of the coastal roads in Australia, they do not always hug the coast, and there are times when we must travel 9-22 kms down to the coastal car parks to access more fragile areas before returning the same way to re-join the scenic route. That long white cloud is evident again
today, bringing with it rain.


We travel through towns with alluring names such as Owaka (with it's Teapot Home), Caberfeidh, MacLennan,  Papatowai and Chaslands where we stop for lunch at the highly recommended Whistling Frog Cafe which is an icon in the Caitlins area of 'outstanding natural beauty'before heading through Niagara and Waikawa to Curio Bay. Our meals were delicious - Michael had the Beefsteak and Cheese Pie while I had the Chicken Caesar Sandwich.

We make stops at Pūrākaunui Falls, getting caught on the road up behind a farmer moving his sheep. The four sheep dogs kept running back to his window for instruction!

Matai Falls, the Florence Hill Lookout, pass Lake Wilkie and the Tautuku estuary and drive through Chaslands and Waikawa taking photos all the way before we arrive at Curio Bay.  

This is the home to the Tumu Toka CurioScape, to Hector's dolphins/papakanua, Yellow-eyed penguins/hoioho and fur seals and sea lions.  But today it is windy and drizzling in to rain and none are to be seen.  A hedgehog, introduced to control garden slugs and now considered a threat to the native fauna, was the only animal venturing out!  The ranger told Michael that it is very unusual to see them during the day.

The Tumu Toka CurioScape is excellent and explains the geological and geographical changes that have occurred over the millenia, to the backdrop of the Maori legends and stories.  After watching it, Michael takes a walk in the rain down to the petrified forest bed - the only place in the world where a petrified forest is found next to a living one!

The rain is continuing and getting heavier, so we decide to head back east to our accommodation. But before we head in fr the night there is a final spot to visit.  Nugget Point is the site of a lighthouse that guards ships in the region from meeting their doom at The Nuggets which are right in front of it.  Rugged and beautiful, this is also treacherous with the local Department of Conservation warning sign including the sage words "keep children safe".  All it would take on this route would be one inquisitive little one under a barrier, and a slip would see them swimming with the dolphins in the waters far below.

And our last stop for the night is at The Point Cafe and Bar at Kaka Point for dinner.
Again, highly recommended by Karla, the food is fabulous even if we do have a very noisy and base group of four behind us. When one tells another to shush, the petulant reply is"Knew we shoulda gone to the pub!"

Nevertheless, the food was sublime  my Seafood Chowder starter was thick and creamy with a generous helping of seafoods - some of which I left for Michael whose Salt and Pepper Calamari looked nice.  Michael enjoyed his Moroccan Chicken and I again chose Blue Cod - this time pan-fried with vegetables.  Delicious.

 Tomorrow we move on to Dunedin.


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