Yesterday when we got in from our excursion to Tromsø, there were Certificates in our names certifying that we had crossed the Arctic Circle yesterday aboard the MS Kong Harald. So it is official! Mind you, we have now crossed the 70.26 degrees north latitude and 21.6 degrees east.
Last night was interesting as we ventured into the true open sea waters across the top of Norway about midnight. The motion of the ship has increased markedly and I am glad to going to bed to be 'lulled'. I was just glad that Donna or I didn't fall out of bed!
We woke this morning to hammering and other welding type noises. "Hope that they're not trying to fix a hole in this bucket", says Donna and now I can't get the words of the damn song out of my head! We are sailing up through the Strait of Magerøya toward Magerøya Island. This island is the furthest north that you can travel by road in Norway and the North Cape is the most northern tip of mainland Europe.
Honningsvåg is the most northern city in Norway. The North Cape has been a beacon for adventurers from around the world for centuries. Today we were given a unique and unforgettable insight into the incredible way of life in this isolated territory, far above the Arctic Circle. We are now at 71°10' 21" north of the Equator and at the end of the northernmost road in Norway. The landscape is rugged and bare with not a tree to be seen outside of the gardens in Honningsvåg. I am surprised that on this trip we have not seen much wildlife. Plenty of birds, but no whales, or seals, or porpoises, no foxes or martens or even rabbits. Today however we do see reindeer in their natural habitat and we are told that every house in Honningsvåg has a cat to deal with the only rodents on the island - the plentiful mice!
Our guide tells us that Honningsvåg averages one fine day each two weeks, so we are lucky that today is clear but cloudy. As this is the end of summer (in a week) and rain is forecast for the next three weeks, it was their last fine day this summer. It is also
unseasonally warm at 8 degrees, although the wind chill makes it feel colder.
So far, this is the first day we have resorted to beanies and really that was to keep or hair from whipping across our faces!
Methinks that we might have over-packed on cold weather gear - although it appears that we might be glad of them tomorrow both literally and metaphorically when we take a bus trip to the Russian border!
The North Cape Plateau soars to 307 metres almost vertically above the Arctic Ocean. The iconic globe sculpture has become the symbol of the North Cape. At the North Cape Hall we viewed a panoramic film about Magerøya Island through the seasons and 'experienced' the northern lights in a light tunnel. Took a photo with the globe at the top of the earth and another at the marker for the International Hiking Trail from Italy to North Cape - inspired by Francesco Negri an Italian priest who first did this expedition in 1664! Wonder who he was trying to avoid!!In those times, there were no roads (first constructed in the 1950s) and early explorers would have travelled by boat and then scaled a near vertical cliff. Mad or what?
The reindeer are herded by the local Sami people - the indigenous peoples of the Finnmark (across the top of Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia). Each year in winter they herd the reindeer to the mainland for feed and then at the start of summer they transport them (by ferry) back to the island. Reindeer are mottled colours in the summer, and have a white coat in the winter. There are some reindeer that have white coats year round - these are albino and have red eyes, and wait for it - red noses! Hello Rudolph!!
There is a Post Office (box) here and you can send postcards stamped with the North Cape - we didn't worry about that.
In 1988, seven children from across the globe were invited to the North Cape for one week to produce a monument to the 'Children of the Earth' - a symbol of cooperation, friendship, hope and joy.
Sadly the Kysten Restaurant is closed tonight so we have to resort to eating at the buffet bistro. Not that there is anything wrong with that, it is just that our two experiences at the Kysten have been so memorable. On the menu tonight was local Salmon, Reindeer strips in a cream sauce served with mashed potato and a berry mouse with hazelnut crunch for dessert. These were the three regional specialities for us to try. Of course there was plenty else on offer as well - prawns, crab claws, various cold roast meats and salads. Both Donna and I are so full. We have resorted to two meals per day and still feel like we are over-eating.
Tonight's meal is finished with cheese plates and a sample of the Norwegian Akevitt (Water of life) which is made from distilled poteter. This is a harsh liquour with a distinct flavor from a variety of different spices and herbs. Caraway is by far the most popular, but dill, cardamom, cumin, anise, and fennel are typical ingredients as well. Akevitts vary in color from clear to a light and even caramer colored brown. Some akevitt is aged in oak casks, which give it a brownish hue. The longer it is stored in the oak casks, the darker the hue will be. Norwegian akevitt is aged in oak casks for anywhere from 1-12 years. Clear akevitt is known as “taffel.” Not to everyone's taste.
We have to re-pack our bags now andhave them ready to be off-loaded at the port of Kirkenes in the morning. Wish us luck - they are getting fuller by the day.
Riikka and Runo and the boys are getting excited as we get closer. Tomorrow we will try to arrange a hire car for our trip to Helsinki and we hope to reach Riikka's home in Jyväskylä by Wednesday night.
1 comment:
An adventure and a half! ❤
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