Saturday, April 9, 2022

And we thought the food was good over the last couple of days . . .

Well and truly in a food coma last night, I slept like a log. When I finally awake it has gone 9:30 am. I'm not sure how long Gen has been up. "Why didn't you wake me earlier" "Well you must need it" - if only it was that easy.. This is the one drawback of a medicated sleep - it becomes just too easy to sleep the morning away..

Launceston is expecting up to 24 degrees today so we can dispense with some of the layers. Gen is excited to show me some of the Launceston that she visited five years ago.  After an in-room breakfast of fruit toast (baked yesterday at the Rosevears Bakery) and some of our fast dwindling supply of Christmas Hill Road raspberries, we leave the hotel, turning to the south rather than the north today. Property down this end of Rosevears is more developed. There is evidence of older homes - some pre-dating 1900 by the look of them look serenely over the Tamar River - although at this point, it looks more like a lake, it is so wide.

As Rosevears is only 20 minutes north of Launceston, I would find this a beautiful part of the state, and country, in which to live. Along with regal, sleepy older homes stand newer constructs and as we drive around, we see newer homes yet to be finished. They overlook the glistening river, rippling in the sunshine across to a mountain backdrop that on a clear day includes the Cradle Mountain outline! Pretty, pretty special. Also along this winding 'lane' along the water we see two plots of grapes creeping their way gently up the slope, planted to maximise the amount of light that each any every branch can receive. There is not a winery name of either of these so I do not know if there is a small boutique winery here - I'll have a look into it tomorrow.

Before long we are on the Bass Highway in to Launceston. The residents are so lucky - so much property has both a mountain view in the backdrop and a water view in the foreground. Homes are predominantly modest, although when we get into the City Centre, away from the riverside, those homes on the upper streets are more substantial and stately.

We begin our discovery of the city at Queen Victoria Museum at Inveresk. Obviously a local landmark, this space is filled with people. Young and old wandering through the various displays of Tasmania (and Launceston's) development and past. Moving through the natural history displays, Gen can finally put a name to the bird that she has seen but couldn't identify - it is a Brown Skua - similar to a gull, but brown and on steroids (like much on the island). We have seen examples of most of the marsupials in the wild - just not a wombat - although I still hold hope of seeing one before we leave Tasmania.

They have a wonderful Planetarium. Tasmania holds quite a place in the history of astronomy in Australia. It includes examples and the real examples of some of the earlier telescopes, especially radio telescopes that put Tasmania on the astronomical map. We are in time to see the day's first showing of the night sky in the planetarium. Us, and a family of four. Wow. Our astronomer, Rebecca, (with a degree in astrophysics) is very informative. As all of us are seated in one area of the arena, she spins the display so we don't need to dislocate our necks! So, tonight is going to be a great night to see the bands of the Milky Way - too bad it is cloudy in Launceston, just our luck. She points out the latest two exo-planets discovered, including one in the life-sustaining Goldilocks Band - exciting if you are into extra-stellar life, or just a star-junkie like half of the Carkagis clan!

The museum is set in the former railyards and quite a bit of space is given over to exhibits of this former use, and the contribution that they made to the local economy and community. They even covered the conversion of operations during the war times - and we see a new parallel with home where a new munitions factory is nearing completion.

Being inside a museum, the space is climate controlled and now I am getting cold. Thankfully I am carrying my jacket (and in the wheelchair today). I suppose I look like a dork wearing it back-to-front, but who cares, I'm warmer! Outsider you take a look at some of the art exhibits and insallations, I feel better as we walk in and out of the warmer sunshine. But time is galloping and Gen wants me to see the City Park today.

Once the site of Launceston's Government House, the Park was developed by the  Launceston Horticultural Society and handed to the Launceston council in 1863. It is teeming with life - young people hanging out, some new residents (from the sub-continent by their appearance) gleefully taking videos of the Macaque monkeys, families with children, local musicians jamming in the Pavilion dedicated to warmer clime plants, young lovers, a family taking an older member on an outing and a number of large gatherings having planned picnics. It appears to be a well-loved space and offers something for almost everyone. The established trees are nothing short of majestic and the rose and dahlia beds are boasting full blooms. Those dahlias were Dad's favourite flowers and when you see the magnificence of this display, I can see why. Additional to the Pavilion and the monkeys are any number of memorials - you should see the Queen Victoria Cupola now housing drinking bubblers, duck ponds populated by at least four different species we see today, oh, and a miniature tractor-pulled train that seems to want to take every path Gen is pushing me on. I start to think that the driver is deliberately following our route so we have to move out of his way. He doesn't seem to follow a pre-determined route! The weather is beginning to close in and the wind is increasing, so we slowly (uphill) make our way back to the car.

We have brought our latest washing load with us as there are a couple of laundromats listed in Launnie (am I sounding like a local yet, Robyn??). we find one a couple of klms from the city centre and make a bee-line. Gen has the machine ready to load and discovers that we don't have enough in change left, so she walks a block back to a service station to change money. Just over an hour later, we are ready to set off again. 

When we arrived at the museum this morning, we had phoned Stillwater, the restaurant where Gen had a very memorable meal last time she was here. The only booking they can give us is a seating at 5:30 pm. So we book this - with a later breakfast, we feel that we can forgo lunch to allow us to make the most of an early dinner. And by the time Gen finished the washing, it was after 5 pm so we drove through the City and back across the bridge to where Stillwater sits, overlooking the still waters of a 'bay' in the Tamar River - yep, very aptly named.

Now, the service was impeccable. All staff have obviously had extensive front of house training. Water offere, house-made sourdough (soo delicious) is served as we read through the menu - gosh, it all looks so good. How will we choose what to eat?  Mull over it we did and we finally decided on sharing Snacks (starters) of Hot Smoked Salmon Croquettes and Rock Lobster Blinis and then the entree of Beef Tartare with radish.
Mains - I had the Gnocchi and Gen the Rib Fillet (bleu) with beans and potato sides.
Gen had a local Rosè and I had the Pinot Gris. Desserts followed with Gen chosing the Yuzu ice cream and I had the meringue. Could not have eaten or drunk another thing! Stillwater Restaurant was outstanding in food and service.

We've hobbled back to our current home - had a coffee and are now more than ready for bed. Tamar Valley Wine Trail tomorrow before we cruise the Tamar and do the Cataract Gorge on Monday. Time is fast coming to an end and there is still so much to see and do!

2 comments:

Hels said...
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Hels said...

As always I am so intrigued with your version of travels to the same towns that I have skimmed! I’m going to need to visit Tassie again and include some of your adventures. Your writing, as always is brilliantly descriptive. Thank you Maria,I for sharing your gift with us all.🌳 πŸ™πŸ˜˜πŸ”₯πŸ₯§πŸ§πŸ²πŸ›❤️