and on the sixth day, there was fishes in the sea and animals walking the land

Pennicott do a wonderful range of tours including cruises. We took their southern cruise while on Bruny Island so we were very comfortable in booking their Freycinet Cruise to Wineglass Bay. We need to be at their Coles Bay office by 9 am for a cruise that departs at 9:15am, so we set the alarm for 6:30 am. Last night Gen re-packed the large suitcase (again) and so this morning we condense everything as we put things back in the car.

Up at 6:30 for a hot shower - it was cool again overnight, but not as cold as the night before, we quickly made our bit of breakfast and packed the car. We set off from the Pelican Sands Motel about 7:45 am for the hour and a quarter drive, re-tracing our route of yesterday to Bicheno (but thankfully, not the return journey over the passes). We drove through the area where the crash was yesterday but there was no evidence that anything amiss had occured. It always amazes me just how fully a site can be cleaned up, leaving nothing to suggest the earlier drama.

The trip down to Coles Bay was uneventful. So much earlier than most days, we travelled quietly, each in our own thoughts, enjoying the warming sun and beautiful vistas that greet us on every turn. The weather has been so good that we have not used the car air-conditioner much, preferring instead to wind down the car windows for some fresh air - today salt-touched, and at other times, fresh with mountain smells of leatherwood or eucalypt trees and occasionally with the hearty smell of fresh manure as we have travelled through fields of cattle or sheep.

We arrive at the Booking Office just after 9 a and were greeted with "I guess you have a booking in the name of Maria?! You are the only ones with crutches!" We were instructed to wait near the gangway saying that we would be boarding in time for a 9:45 am departure. Turns out, we are waiting for three parties who have not yet checked in - oh, wait, one of them is already here, just hadn't advised the office they were here. Still, the operators wait for the remaining two parties, so we are late leaving by about half an hour, Not a particularly good start! 

Robert is skipper. He has 22 years in business, and there are now 17 vessels in the couple of tours they operate here in the east. Today, the lower deck (Upper Deck was + $115 all for the sake of some oysters!) is being serviced by Noah, Josh and Euan. Nice young men who are all very personable and chatty. Euan provides the safety briefing, ending with "In the unlikely event we need to leave the vessel, jump in to life rafts and continue the tour as planned!" ha ha ha.

As we leave Coles Bay we initially pass by The Hazards, a grouping of three mountains - Graham, Amos and Dove. These pink granite peaks, comprise quartz, feldspar and mica under a dolerite cap. They were previously mined with some blocks finding their way into the Sydney Opera House. This was one lucrative actvity that no longer operates, as was the whaling that was practised commercially until the 1802 in Great Oyster Bay, 

Nowdays, more environmentally friendly tourism and managed seafood harvesting are the main operations. The extensive seagram beds are perfect for calamari and scallops grow as big as golf balls. This area provides 25% of WORLD Abalone catch and crayfish are plentiful - regularly found in areas of rockfalls as well as old wrecks - they love to play hide and seek we are tolf. 

As we motor out of Coles Bay, another tour group is also leaving. In Kayaks that the boat operators refer to as speed bumps! Seriously, they are very respectful and slow down when they come upon any sea-life or other vessels of any size. Its amazing how quickly the engines can be cut and the boat come to a complete standstill. Today'sd boat is the Spirit of the Shouten. She is 23m long and powered by 2 yangmar diesel engines 700 hp each.

On the trip out to Wineglass Bay, we pass numerous points of interest and make frequent  stops. to hear points of history and observe the teeming wildlife of this environment. This includes:

* Old Refuge Island that often shelters boats from the prevailing southerly winds. It is also home to a Fur seal colony. They grow up to 300 kg and can live up to 22 yrs.

This is a RAMSAR area with penguins, tern, shearwaters, comorants, albatross and sea eagles all often see. As are dolphins, seals and whales - the holy trifecta which we were lucky to see today - Bottle-nose dolphins, Austraian and NZ fur seals, and one young humpback whale heading north - very early in the season!

There are lots of rocky outcrops. Promise Rocks is named after the Ship that was wrecked. All souls survived and were rescued after the Captain, the only person who could swim, swam through shark infested waters to raise the alarm.

Other points include Weatherhead point made of Jurassic dolerite - known as the diamond of rocks for its very hard composition. It is home to Australia's smallest lighthouse - the only staff that it could house would be a mouse, so luckily, this is an  automatic lighthouse not requiring manning or re-fuelling.

Lots of Cray pots in the water as we pass by Schouten island and Maria Island and pull up alongside Brian Island - an  Aboriginal learning place where we could easily see shells caught in roots of fallen she-oaks. Skipper Robert asked everyone for 30 seconds silence to pay respect to the Aboriginal peoples of Tasmania and reflect on the significance of their custodianship of these lands. Here on Brian Island there was a very steep gradient on literal dune.

We are shown a WBSEN (White Bellied Sea Eagle Nest) 4.5m deep 3.5m wide. These nests are used for up to 30 years and today, we are lucky to see a female eagle nearby the nest. They are Australia's second largest bird, and one of the world's best visioned birds.

We motor out the Shouten Passage and into the Tasman Sea where the previously very calm waters started to rock and roll in the increased swell. The tide was coming in, but it really isn't bad.

We see plenty 'Shags on a Rock' - the ever-present Black chested cormorant whose guanno (bird poop) stains the rocks white so they gleam in the sun like a beacon. And just like in the Bay of Fires, the red lichen can be see along the length of coastline we re traversing. From here, you look eastward to see nothing but the horizon. From here it is 1,500 km to NZ and 2,500 km to Antarctica 

We pull in close to Twin Caves and I kid you not,  we were no more than 3 m from the rock. The water depth here must be amazing - I guess the cliffs continue under the water. Then we pull into Waterfall Bay where, after rain, up to 30 falls can be seen.

Gen had front bow position for much of this part of the cruise - best place in the house to view Half Lemon Rock then Lemon Rock that once housed a gaslit lighthouse.
We see the remains of a Rockslide that occurred in 1983 and according to Robert provides some of the areas best crayfishing.

We first see Wineglass Bay from a distance as we pull into The Nuggets (rocks) to visit another Australian Fur Seal colony. Most are on the rocks and one is obviously injured - Robert thinks probably from a Great White encounter. As we move up and down beside them, they become more comfortable and a number jump, roll or fall into the sea playing around for us.

We are now well off shore and have perfect phone reception! Go figure! We get patchy coverage on land!!

We pass back through The Hazards into Wineglass Bay for lunch. Perfect white sand. Clear stunning aqua water two people on the beach would have had to have hiked in. This is an old whaling station. Occasionally old rib bones are washed up. Great calamari fishing spot. There were no oo other boats in the Bay when we arrived (this is unusual) but a yatch sails in not long after er arrived.
Wineglass Bay named because after a successfu whale kill the water would look like claret wine, in a glass that the bay resembles.

Lunch done, we power the motors up and head back for Coles Bay. I swear that the rocks and cliffs look like someone took the orange paintbrush and daubed random spots right across the coastline. As wwe turn from the Tasman back into the calm waters of Coles Bay, the sunlight is dancing on the tiny waves looking like flashlights or twinkling diamonds.

Back on land we head south for Hobart, passing wineries that we visited yesterday. Just passed Devil's Corner we see a house built high on Cherry tree Hill with amazing views billabong vineyards mountains bays. I would very happily live here.

We come across some very amusing signs, place names etc on the trip towards Hobart - there was the Wye River, to which someone had added 'Cos it's larger than a stream' on a very official looking sign below! Then there was Break-Me-Neck Hill followed immediately on the next rise by Bust-Me-Gall Hill! Add to these, the various names reminiscent of The Goons around the Bruny area, the links with all things English (humour) is very obvious. And today, just for Mick and Anne, we managed a photo of the road to the 'town' of Nugent - no doubt named for him (in HIS mind!!!) 😂 😂

We had made a dinner booking at the Drunken Admiral. which we had not been able to get a table at when we arrived for our first few days, but by the time we arrive at the Battery Point Manor, neither of us were very hungry and we just wanted out of the car and the chance not to sit down for a while. In the end we decided to cancel our booking and just finish off the salmon, cheese and crackers of various types that we have been carrying for the last couple of days - not problem, they have been on ice for the whole time.

So our last day of sightseeing is tomorrow. Heading home is bittersweet, but definitely does have good points! 

What do travellers on Tasmania's East Coast eat? Oysters? Nope, for me its Lobster all the way!!

Last night was very cool. And tonight parts of Tasmania are meant to get to -3 degrees. Yes, -3! Still, the days are lovely and those cold nights mean that the days are crisp and clear. We are finishing eating the last of the bits and pieces of food that we have collected over the last week or two. There was a Cheese and Chives Scone from the Pyengana dairy yesterday with some of their stunning garlic butter, pieces of raisin toast from the Rosevears Bakery again with garlic butter - don't knock it if you haven't tried it (we have finished our tub of regular butter and its not worth buying another for a couple of days). Add to that latte sachets and an apple and we are ready to hit the day.

Today we are headed to the East Coast wineries and the Bicheno area. We begin with the Devil's Corner Winery, arriving about 10:50 am. We had tried unsuccessfully to book online for a premium wine tasting experience (we reported that to them today) but once we got there, realised that the self guided tasting at only $15 was a much better deal. I suppose you might miss the banter with one of their employees, but the tasting notes that are accessed by scanning the QR Code on the tasting paddle provides plenty of information. 

You know that you are in for nice wines when you instantly recognise the winery logo from major marketing campaigns. Devil's Corner is one such winery. That and the fact that a number of people that I know have personally recommended them also.

Never one to drink on an 'empty' stomach we shared a cheese and charcuterie board. In order, we tried premium sparkling cuvee, two cool climate whites, a savingnon blanc and a pinot grigio, a pinot noir rose and their leading pinot noir. They were nice so to added a class of riesling and a syrah to round out our experience. Their Sav Blanc rivals anything coming our of Marlborough, NZ. Might have shipped a mixed case home - love that, might haha - as Gen answered a Facebook post tonight, she was my evil little devil "Mum, if you like it, buy it" - always did find it hard to not give in to that little devil! 😉  😊

After a leisurely couple of hours, we headed back toward Bicheno and made a stop at The Pondering Frog cafe. Our entry is greeted with "Hello ladies, is it lunch or an ice-cream time" by the proprietor. Clever marketing! Very clever! We had stopped because Gen's friend Tracey is made about frogs. Ice creams were the order - home made and well worth stopping for. My passionfruit ice cream was full of flavour - and seeds - while Gen had the Peanut Butter Ice Cream with dark chocolate coating. It was huge, lopsided and the choc coating was very thick. BUT neither the ice cream or the chocolate is overly sweet and she enjoys it to the end.

The other must-visit that we constantly are told about is The Farm Shed in Bicheno. There are 22 wine producers on the Tasmanian East Coast, and only ten of these have cellar doors. The others provide their wines to select outlets - predominantly restaurants in Hobart and/or Launceston. BUT, you don't need to table-hop restaurants, because The  Farm Door acts as a cellar door for all 22 vineyards. Now, I can't disappoint anyone, so we settle in! The stock Wines, Whiskies, Gins and a whole range of food providores and gift lines. We booked for 1 wine tasting and 1 whisky tasting - as Gen is driving, she will have a tiny sip only. Normally there are five wines and five whiskies. After much chatter with the ladies who operate this gem, I THINK we topped out at 7 wines and 6 whiskies plus a tasting of Australia's only Peated Rye. Not my cup of tea, but plenty of the others were.
Again, I may - bugger let's forget the jokes, I DID buy a half-dozen wines, and I signed up to their wine club. Looks like there will be plenty of time to taste Tasmanian wines over the next year or so. So, who wants to be my friend??? Hmm?  You?

The area between the Bay of Fires and Freycinet is well known for its seafood. In particular the freshest oysters you could want - for as little as $14 per dozen. Makes you wonder how some restaurants can get away with charging up to $8 each. But for me, it is the other delicacy that we are interested in - LOBSTER - locally known as Crayfish. 

The Lobster Shack is a well-known local identity. We paid $60 for half a plain medium lobster Crayfish in Stanley about 10 days ago.
Today, we pay $55 for a half medium lobster thermidor with Pyengana Cheese being used in the mornay sauce!! Winner winner! With all the troubles in the world at the moment, I do feel a little guilty. But not for long! 

Fully 'stuffed', 'glutted', 'filled' and 'bursting' we waddle back to our car - with more swagger than the seagulls that jump out of our way. we head the car for scamander and our accommodation in the gentle late afternoon light. BUT this was not to be an easy trip back. It is 58 kms from Bicheno to Scamander and we are travelling in light traffic - each lost in our own thoughts. We round a bend and start up a rise to come to a stopped line of traffic with hazard light on. This doesn't look good, we have already passed through the roadworks just to the north of Bicheno. Before long, we learn that there is a crash up ahead. Gen turns off the car and heads up to see whether it will be worth us witing, or turning atound. She reports it happened about 40 minutes earlier, the police were on site, turning back traffic, saying the road would be closed for many hours yet.

So, along with the rest of the waiting cars, we turn. We ask someone who appears to be a  local what the alternate routes are. He advises that there is only one - Up over St Mary's Pass through St Marys and down Elephant Pass. He warns that there are tight bends and to just take it slowly. And that it was. I didn't envy Gen this drive with the late afternoon sun in her eyes for most of the trip up the mountain to St Marys. Normally we would have made a stop to have a look around, but the light is fading and we had made a pact that we would not drive at dusk or dawn because of the amount of wildlife that appears. We don't want to add to the road-kill. We finally reach the base, pass the junction with the coastal road that is now blocked and manned by police and in another 15 minutes find ourselves back in Scamander. 

We pass the motel and head to the service station. Although closed, they have a 24 hour card facility to purchase fuel. Thanks to good ol Costco, we know how to operate these. Gen fills up and there is another hire car, a Merc whose asian driver obviously needs help. Gen does another good deed for the day and explains how to get access to the fuel - a very relieved driver - it looked like he was settling in to wait in the car until morning!   

We have an early start, setting out for Coles Bay to join another Pennicott Cruise - this one to the Freycinet National Park and the iconic Wineglass Bay. Its another bucket list item for me, and I am no longer up to the hike in by foot!

Footnote: My sister, Donna, told us she had tested positive for Covid-19 last week and today Antony phones us to tell us that Amanda has tested positive today and feel like a truck has hit her. so the household is in quarantine for at least a week. So after some discussion, we have decided that we will head home once we land in brisbane rather than staying a few days. Can't say that either of us is too disappointed. Its been a holiday to make memories, but we will both be glad to stay put in one place!  

A move towards the north - for more cheese (hic)

It was significantly colder last night and as we watch the news tonight, find out that it got down to 2 degrees. Yep, a lot colder! Even Gen felt the need for the aircon to be turned to heat this morning. Before we went to bed last night we sorted out the remaining 'stuff' we are carrying. I filled on postbag with some clothes that I won't be needing for the last week, nor immediately when we arrive back in much (much) warmer Queensland! We moved clothes for the next week, souvenirs that we will want as soon as we touchdown at Upper Kedron 😉) and some breakable (liquid) items to the large suitcase. We put all the laundry needing doing in a bag for laundry on Wednesday before we head back to Hobart, and started to put aside food etc that we will leave with Nick when we go - I men, there is no point in wasting it. Meredith and Andrew have good luggage allowances and have offered to carry some things home for us (they arrive home on Monday just before we leave for home). I'm really grateful for this as it will minimise the luggage Gen needs to carry between Hobart and Brisbane.

Because we had sorted our sh*t last night, we were able to get away in good time and drove away from the Rosevears Hotel right on 8:30 am. There are three routes that we could take to reach Scamander. Gen had thought that the most northern route would allow us to have a look at the coast, but we (lol we, read me!) really want to visit the Pyengana Dairy cheese factory. And as luck would have it, it is located closest to the most southern route we could choose! Turns out the choice was made for us. Our hire car has a 'no gravel roads' clause in the rental agreement and the centre route that would have been the most appropriate is unsealed. But we don't really want to stick to the highway as it goes through the southern part of our route, and nowhere near the coast. So our second choice becomes our first!

Our route north from Exeter (near Rosevears) took us almost directly north to Pipers River and then to Bridport on the coast. We began in lush pastoral country filled with a multitude of wineries and then surprisingly encounter 'big timber' forests again as we hit a mountain range. We had not expected to find mountains this close to the coast. 

It was interesting to see the change in landscapes so abruptly. One minute Gen is traversing the dreaded hairpin bends up and down slopes at an average of less than 40 km. The next corner puts us back on the coast with the sleepy seaside town of Bridport coming in to view. Well, it looks sleepy on its outskirts, but is much larger than it first appears. Gen was happy to find a petrol station there!! From here, the soil is again sand, the dunes are not only seen, but crossed as are numerous small streams and rivulets. The birdlife is abundant and in the earlier (lol) light of the day, we startle a number of flocks of black birds, just waiting for the roadkill to commence. There are lots of sheep in the paddocks and the cattle are now more diary cows than beef cattle. Traffic is light and the travelling easy, although the road is somewhat undulating, as though the sands are shifting beneath us. 

By now, neither of us has mobile coverage so we are relying on road signs. We have abandoned trying to get to the Pynegana Dairy as it looks like it will need significant back-tracking. With glimpses of the clear aqua water of the Bass Strait teasing us through dunes and low-lying wind-sculpted coastal trees and shrubs, we turn toward the south after travelling as far as we can along the northern roads.
We reach Gladstone (the other one!). If wanted to continue to the northeast most point, Cape Portland, then we needed to do it another way as from here, the road is unsealed. Between the towns of Derby and Gladstone (there are lots of references to English places, reflecting the pioneers) we see a tourist sign to the Little Blue Lake. 

Now, I have seen plenty of blue lakes in my travels, but this was something altogether different. There is a viewing platform just off the road, with a solid chainlink fence keeping you back from the edge. And while most of the blue lakes I have seen attribute their amazing colour to glacial or summer snow melts, this one was very different. It is the result of about 100 years of mineral mining - mainly tin, and at this spot, that tin was intersperced with kaolin, that amazing white clay that is so prized by Chinese pottery makers.  The colour is truly amazing, but what is also amazing is that there is no signs of life anywhere near it - the vegetation stops about 3 metres from the water's edge and there is no sign of wildlife - not even a bird. This site is part of the mine rehabilitation area of the former South Mount Cameron mine.

A little further south, we pass through the hamlet of Moorina (there are numerous much smaller settlements - but what do you call a collection of less than ten houses?) At Moorina there is an intriguing sign pointing to the Moorina cemetery and the Chinese Monument - the Tin Dragon. Now, that sounds interesting! Turns out that this area has quite a history of mining, opportunities sought, fortunes won and lost, of Chinese immigrants and their legacy locally. The monument is more of a memorial because although it is located adjacent to the local cemetery, there are very few Chinese graves because if they perished, as many did, the bodies were returned home - predominantly to the Guandong region from where most of them came. An unexpected and interesting stop on the route. 

Gen asks me "What will we be eating in half an hour or so?"
"I don't know. Lobster?", I ask.
"Nope", she says with a grin, "Cheese!"
On this memorial there was a great regional map and despite the convoluted route we have taken, we are now a mere 29 kms from the Pyengana Dairy Factory! Yay!! 
We are skirting around the edge of the other side of the Blue Tier Forest and back into winding roads. And the dairy cattle are now everywhere. Its not long before we see the signs and take the road towards the dairy and St Columba Falls. This award-winning dairy is literally in the middle of nowhere (and still with no mobile coverage), so we are quite surprised when we get to the farm gate to see that their car-park is full, with more vehicles parked on the side of the 'highway'. 

The dairy visitor centre is housed in a former milking shed. There are lots of story-boards, under cover, along the long side of the building that leads you to a viewing platform where you can watch the cheese being made. That is what you would normally see, but today one of the farmers is there explaining that they are not making cheese this week as the milk is all needed for the Easter demand! It is just after midday and lunch is certainly on the cards. I had read in the Travelling Tasmania Facebook page that the Cheese and Chive scones were excellent. They offer a small but sufficient selection for lunch. I have already decided that I am going to have those scones which are served with their dairy butter and a smoky tomato relish (that has a bit of a kick) and Gen decides on the Tasmanian Gourmet Platter that includes homemade pumpkin sourdough, crackers, a range of their cheeses and local meats and fruits. Both were delectable and as usual we shared. Gen had asked if I wanted a glass of wine with lunch - they do offer that lovely Josef Chromy Pinot Gris, but I said that while in Rome . . .  so we had milkshakes! While Gen ordered our food, I found a table right next to the gentle warmth of the open fire. Man, this is living. AND they offer Valhalla icream that we both love.  Jersey Caramel and Strawberry Choc Chip were today's choices.
The have a great selection of cheeses and other souvenirs and again, I may, (or may not)  have sent some cheese home - the free postage if you spend $100 was very easy to reach! Remember - Saturday 23 is tasting day at home - keep it free peeps!! Pyengana is well worth a visit if you are in the north/east of Tasmania - AND they do mail order from their website.

Now absolutely rolling with all the food we have consumed (well, that is a bit of an exaggeration, we brought some of it with us for tonight!) we left and turned for the East Coast and St Helens (again, not the local one). St Helens is the gateway to the Bay of Fires where those amazing seascapes of lichen and algae covered rocks in crystal clear waters are known world-wide. There are opportunities to see them right along the roadside, with plenty of parking areas for a car or two, but the formal viewing area is at the very end of the road. We arrive about 3 pm and spend about an hour with me taking telephoto shots and Gen walking down slippery ramps and across very soft sand to clambour over the rocks. 

This is truly a beautiful landscape and it is easy to see the inspiration for many professional photographers and artists whose works grace glossy books and galleries right across the state! As we leave there is a steady stream of traffic coming out - heavens knows where they will park, as the carpark is already full. The rocks are best seen as the sun is setting, but it has been close enough for us! There is an on-shore wind and our views are softened by a fine powder of both sea-mist and that fine sand as it is blown across the roadway. The whitecaps dance along the crystal clear water in lines as they meet with rock obstacles. From time to time, there is a whoosh as water encounters a rocky outcrop and I am rewarded with some lovely photographs of shooting waters.  

In total, driving directly it should have been 4.5 hours travelling to cover the 304 kms trip - seems like a cinch, but in reality it took us all day - with us arriving at Pelican Sands at Scamander right on 4:30 this afternoon. Turns out that Terese and Tony from home are here in town tonight also. They have been here for a short trip of about 9 days - and depart on the Spirit of Tasmania on Saturday. They have travelled the opposite direction to us. We will need to catch up when we get home and trade stories! We have some of the cheese we left at lunch for a light dinner, with one of our last apples (purchased at Willy smiths in Huonville what feels like weeks ago). along with the cheese, I am enjoying a can of Crafty Cuts Lemon+Lime Gin Cucumber Cooler - very quaffable! Will have to see if we can get it at home/online!

We are here for two nights (accommodation is very hard to find, with the local news tonight reporting that there is NO accommodation left for the Easter break in either Hobart or Launceston!). Tomorrow we are headed to Bicheno, 45 minutes away for lobster rolls and a visit to the Devil's Corner winery (as the Farmshed East Coast wineries that stock wines from all the east coast wineries).

Off for an earlier night - biggie coming tomorrow. Later . . .

The Tamar River and Cataract Gorge - two of Tasmania's natural beauties

True to form, after an overcast weekend, the Monday start to the working week has dawned bright and clear. This bides well for our Tamar River Cruise this morning! Think though that I need to pace myself a bit better - following the wine tasitng yesterday and a glass of wine with dinner, I need an extra Ondansetron this morning.

Now that we are getting close to the end of this adventure, we are planning a little strategically just what we are posting home versus what we are carrying, knowing that we have a few days in Brisbane before actually heading home. Gen has begun looking at the weather at home, as well as the daily weather here. She's not liking what she is seeing! The first couple of days when we get back are hot, humid and even raining. Won't worry me, I plan on catching up on some sleep for the first day or two!!

You have to love the new technologies that we have at our fingertips these days. We plug into Google Maps the departure address for our cruise this morning to be informed that at this time of the day, on a weekday, our trip should take us 27 minutes - that means we can spend a quarter of an hour or so planning what to send home wit Meredith when we leave Hobart.

Into the Launceston Sea Port we drive to join our extended tour on the Tamar River Cruises. There are quite a number of people milling about - including as the captain later introduces, a couple celebrating their 53rd anniversary. Wow, now that is an achievement! We set off right on the dot of 10, with more people than I thought would be cruising on Monday, but when we consider the number of people who appear to be touring in Tasmania at the moment, I guess it makes sense.

Anyway, our captain Lynn (a male) is another dry wit, with lots of little quips!
The morning cruise that only does the Cataract Gorge left 15 minutes earlier and as we enter under the Kings Bridge, it passes us on its return to the wharf. We continue to where the Gorge is ponded at Basin 1, to provide controlled water flow to the city's first hydro-electric power system.

The bridge was needed to allow the population easy passage over the Esk River (which flows into the Tamar Basin.) Local manufacturers did not yet have the capability to cast the steel needed for the bridge, so the contract was awarded to a firm in  Manchester, England, transported in pieces to Launceston and assembled on a pontoon and floated into position and then lowered on to its abutments on the receding tide. Despite the challenges, it worked perfectly, first time! But in no time, the local uproar about the short-sightedness of building a single lane bridge soon won out and a local firm was contracted to replicate the first span and a second span was installed to make it a two lane bridge. Nowadays, the Kings Bridge shares the traffic load with the newer Paterson Bridge constructed in the early 1970's and opened in 1973. Together they connect Launceston city with the north-west.

Lynn's commentary was very proud of Launceston's achievements. If ever there was a worthy ambassador for this City, he was leading us on our tour today. He kept apologising for the weather "beautiful one day, better the next!" Think that slogan is already taken Lynn!! But I have to admit, today it suited well to this Tasmanian idyll.
The sun is high, without a single cloud. The water, on a waning tide, is as smooth as a piece of glass. Motoring out of the harbour under speed restrictions there was barely enough wash from the boat to raise a ripple. We pass not only suburbs that have examples of every style of architecture from the Victorian and Federation through to the modern day - all in one view; but examples of Launceston's prowess in industry. For example, all the tugboats in Tasmania and many from Victoria and South Australia are serviced here. They can turnaround a full inspection and water worthiness certification in a week.

Lynn tells of the founding fathers of the city and this part of Tasmania. It is very like the settlement of our own Maryborough in Queensland. There are rags to riches reports, stories of gentlemen convicts and of enterprising entrepreneurs who right to the modern day have shaped the skyline and successes of the City. The Velo Winery has been established by Michael Wilson as a tribute to his career as a former Olympic cyclist. We pass by the Rosevears area and see the Rosevears Hotel where we are staying. Turns out the accommodation developed here cost in the order of $5.3M and the developer has approval to develop a $15M marina that is yet to be commenced.

We are now travelling at cruising speed and the wash from the boat creates significant waves that we see slam into the banks that have been planted with a rice-plant in an effort to stabilise the banks and minimise the continual siltation of the river. When boats such as this can create the impact that it does, this is always going to be a lost battle. Yet, despite our speed, we are still travelling slow enough to see a Sea Eagle resting atop one of the channel markers and Gen was in the right place at the right time when he decided to take flight and she manages to photograph him on the wing!

And not only do we see the sea eagle, we also see a wedge Tailed Eagle, lots of water fowl, black swans and on the return journey Lynn tells us there is a seal off the aft bow, but we can't see it. The siltation of the river has threatened the commercial port status of the city of Launceston. And despite all efforts, all mitigation efforts have not made an iota of difference to the efforts of mother nature!

Turns out, that sitting on a tidal river also makes Launceston vulnerable to 1:100 year floods when the city is in receipt of severe storms! Just like home again!! In the 1990s, the city installed a levee that has very successfully protected the infrastructure in later events and when the next 1:100 year event hit in 2016 the city stood dry thanks to that levee. Now, I wonder how the Tamar River and Basin compare to the Mary River? Actually, I don't (wonder that is). The two river geomorphology of the two systems could not be more different!

On board we were served morning tea once we had cleared Kings Bridge - brewed coffee or tea with muffins, biscuits and Lions Club christmas cake ("who doesn't love a good fruit cake," asked Lynn, "and the Lions make the best"). We then travelled toward the mouth to the Batman Bridge - not the nana nana nana nana type, but the cantilevered bridge, and Australia's first cable-stayed bridge, named for the John Batman, a Launceston businessman and the co-founder of Melbourne. We turned around, on the length of the boat! here and were then given a wine and beer tasting - Velo Pinot Grigio, Ninth Island Chardonnay, Velo Pinot Noir plus a Boags beer that neither of us sampled. Lunch was served - a good selection of rolls and focaccia with a variety of filligs, generous slabs of local cheeses and plenty of fruits. Surprisingly the fruit - predominantly tropical was very sweet and refreshing! The trip back to the wharf was quieter with passengers seated and happy to watch the passing birdlife.

We are coming in on a dead low tide, and at one point the two staff members alarmingly send worried looks to each other as there is a sickening grinding sound. The boat stops momentarily and then Lynn does a little jig with the boat and we are off again. Gemma tells us that this very boat was 'put on the mud', 'fast' only a few months ago! Not sure if that was meant to reassure us or not?! 
Finally we dock at the wharf and the boat disgorges us all, with the next cruise load of passengers waiting on the dock.

After a relatively lazy morning, enjoying the sights from the water, we are now headed to Cataract Gorge to see this wonder from the ground. Gen tells me that she had been here last time she visited Launceston and loved it. she had done the Duck Reach Trail and the Reedy and snake Gully Track which circumnavigated the whole gorge, but said that as there were some very steep sections on this walk, it wouldn't be suitable for me to do. We head off to the entrance and the inclinator so that I didn't need to walk down the very steep slope. Nope, not operational. Bugger. Oh well, I tell Gen, the steps have a railing. Off we set. 99 steps later, I am ready for the jelly-like knees to have a bit of a rest. Ah, the cafe is just here!

We start with Scones with Jam and Cream and a coffee to pep ourselves up! We can see the Suspension Bridge and the Chairlift through the picture windows as well as the plentiful children's activity areas - adventure rides, tumble tubes, slides, a small wave pool complete with artificial beach etc. Coffee downed, Gen asked if I was up to walking to the Suspension Bridge. Yep, lets go!

Well, that walk was longer (and steeper) than either of us knew. And Gen had to cross that suspension bridge with a number of other people on it at the same time, so it was swaying. If only you could have seen the poor girl's face! Turns out the total trip around the First Basin Loop was 900m. Add that to the walk down to it, and the tortuous climb back to the carpark, and we did about 1.2km in right on an hour. Mightn't seem much to most, but to me it sure was.

We had booked dinner for 6pm at Alida at Penny Royal, but now it is only 4:30pm. Me knackered, and with all the other activities at Penny Royal closed at 4, we decide not to stay in town and wait, but rather, to cancel the reservation and head back to Rosevears. We decide to detour and have a look at the local town of Grindlewald, that is modelled on the Swiss Village of the same name. As a condition of building in the tract, there were strict caveats put on land purchasers who had to build in the Swiss Chalet architecture style. The original settlement is now a resort, and the 'village' has grown to quite an up-market suburb.

Back at the hotel, we decide to eat in the room tonight (I need an early night). Shared a Chicken Parmi as I'm not too hungry!

Off to take a look at the Pyengana Cheese factory en-route to the Bay of Fires tomorrow. Our time is closing in on us fast!

What is the saying? Ah yes, bread and WINE!

Once we get out of bed and open the very efficient blockout blinds we are greeted with an overcast morning, but with spots of clear skies. It is meant to get to 22 degrees with the chance of showers, but given we are going to winery-hop in the Tamar Valley today, we are not at all concerned. 

We are still preparing our own breakfasts - me for one will never tire of these amazing raspberries (almost finished 😭) to add to our fruit toast. Not only does it save money, it also saves time - which is our main priority. There are a number of people in the carpark below us eating delicacies from the Rosevears bakery. We can vouch for the freshness and tastiness!

The days left are gallopping by. There is still so much to see and do, and so little time to do it in. Breakfast underway, I grab the Wine Trail booklet to decide on 2 - 4 wineries to visit. Now, Gen is no a big win drinker and to date has restricted her choices to very sweet varieties such as Moscato. So today might be a bit testing for her. For the last few years, my driving restrictions have meant that I have been able to continue to imbibe as now, there is always someone else doing the driving! But on this trip, I am feeling a little sorry for Gen as she is doing all the driving. On previous holidays, I have always enjoyed being the one behind the wheel as I am sure some of my past travelling compatriots can attest! Not mentioning anyone Helen and Donna!!

Anyway, this morning we leave Rosevears and are heading towards the south. As we join the highway a few kilometres from the hotel, the first thing that we see on the road is the signage advising that there are cyclists in the area. We know first hand, having followed a number of cyclists for kilometres in areas where passing visibiity is poor. The yellow road sign shows two cyclists riding abreast. And that is exactly how they ride. Too bad the powers that be did not think to depict those same two cyclists RIDING IN SINGLE FILE! But for every storm there is a silver lining and the silver lining to being trapped behind cyclists driving at about 20 kph, is that you have more time to be observant of the little things that you pass. Like the tired agapanthus, drooping along the borders of garden beds, bereft of their colour and vim , tired and spent. Or the way that the clouds part momentarily to allow the sunlight to dance across the waters of the body of water that is the Tamar River, and not some bay. Like the extra detail that the man cleaning the exterior of his truck is doing. Instead of just using his gerni to water blast the behemoth that no doubt provides his living, he is up on a step ladder, hose in one hand, rag in the other, polishing the chrome around the edge of the windscreen - that's dedication. Like the passion and power of the footy players on the field that we hurry past (once we're passed the cyclist!)

This morning I took the last of my Panadol Osteo. This is probably the gentlest of the drugs I take daily and is useful as it allows me to limit the stronger pain-killers to an as-need basis. Now, given the problems that we had trying to fill my Qld written prescriptions, we are not sure whether we will be able to buy them over the counter, or whether we will need to get another script written here in Tasmania. Turns out, this is an easy one. You can buy them over the counter, with no record taken, AND for about 2/3 the cost of supply in Queensland where a record is kept of supply and questions asked if you need them more frequently than what a pharmacist might think you should. Go figure, there is no rhyme or reason to the lack of consistency. We decide that before we leave Launceston that we will buy a couple of extra boxes as spares.

So we are now through the City Centre. We are heading south on the Tamar Valley Wine Trail. Last night I had a quick look through the Wine Trails Tasmania 2022 booklet that we picked up a few days ago. The booklet divides the state into four major wine regions. For each region, it explores the region geographically, climatically and soil typing and the impact these have on the fruit and resultant wines, as well as supporting producers and non-wine things to see and do. The Tamar Valley includes the Tamar Valley, Pipers River and Launceston. There are 17 wineries listed in the Tamar Valley region, and we do not have enough time to do them all, so I have selected:
1. Josef Chromy Wines in Relbia (most southerly and because I really enjoyed the glass I had at Stillwater Restaurant last night; 
2. Clover Hill Wines in Lebrina in the north east of the region as they specialise in sparkling wines;
3. Pipers Brook Vineyard north of Clover Hill and the one i had heard of before visiting the region; and finally
4. Jansz Tasmania which is adjacent to Pipers Brook.
A number of the unvisited wineries are open by appointment only and we do not have the time to commit. I am just glad to get to these ones!

At Josef Chromy, you must book a tasting, which we have not. The only vacancy they have is for 2:15pm today, and so a little dejectedly, I turn to leave. But once a salesman, always a salesman and the lady who we had been speaking with had another alternative (of course!). While a tasting was not possible, we could sit on the terrace and have a glass of wine with a cheese plate. I am so glad we did. I convinced Gen to swap out her Moscato for a Reisling and I had a Chardonnay. The cheese plate was amazing - a Brie, a blue and a cheddar from the region along with some of the amazing leatherwood honey (we are on the hunt for some to bring home) fruits fresh and dried, candied nuts, home-made crispbread and dried fruit-bread. The wine was truly delicious and Gen conceded that perhaps with a bit of training, her palate might be able to be trained to enjoy other wines! Watching the tastings underway, I can understand the need for bookings. They are held for no more than 4 people per wine advisor who sits with them in conversation rather than just presenting wines by a glass. They walk the grounds, explaining the varietals and the outcomes. As well as wine and cheeses, Tasmania also grows a wide variety of nuts and just beside us, beyond the path is a beautiful hazelnut tree. Like many quality producers, the grounds are just beautiful. Manicured lawns are dotted with flower beds and named mature trees. The aerator pond is home to a black swan pair and any number of ducks. There is a clutch of native hens (Turbo chooks as Gen calls them) scratching away around the base of the vines for any wriggly tasty morsels.

On to Clover Hill, a 45 minute drive away. We skirt the forests on the drive and can smell the leatherwood on the air. It is such a dominating scent and explains the abundance of bees that we see everywhere we stop the car. The Cellar Door for Clover Hill comes in to view after you turn a corner and pass a huge tree. Architecturally speaking, it is stunning! I would not be surprise to find the architect was the same as the one used at MONA. Stark and striking, it is still sympathetic to its environment. The hard materials - sandstone, weathered steel and timber are softened by crushed sandstone paths, lawns filled (I assume deliberately) with clover, and trees and shrubs in the grey tones of sage and olive groves. We walk through HUGE automatic glass doors to find a tasting room cum lunch room - they do a shared cheese plate or a six course degustation menu only - that looks out over the vines down into the valley beyond. The autumn afternoon light glows gold over the changing colours of the trees and vines - Gen comments often how she loves the changing colours of nature here in autumn, as do I. There are also a number of beautiful bronze statues - a farmer and his dog just inside the front gate and next to the cellar door is a stunning large wedge-tail eagle landing, talons extended as she reaches her perch.
Tastings here do not require a booking, and are presented as a more 'traditionl' tasting. As Gen is driving we decide that we will share a tasting as the full six-sample tasting is equivalent to 1.6 standard drinks (and she has already had one glass). To compensate, she also orders a pot of French Earl Grey Tea - her favourite that she has not had since we left home.  The shared cheese plate is very different to the one we finished only a little while ago. There is a french baked brie with shaved pumpkin curls, a creamy blue and an aged Bay of Fires cheddar.
Clover Hills specialise in sparkling wines and the standard tasting is 6 wines. We begin with a non-vintage Rose and finished with a Cuvee Exceptionnelle that was splendid. There were two other wines not included in the tasting in the sparkling range plus a rage of still wines. But it is sparkling wines that are their speciality. I just can't pass up the chance to taste their not-included Exceptionnelle Blanc de Blancs so purchase a glass. Great move! Now I may have (or may not have, asif!!) joined their Cellar Door Club for a minimum of two deliveries per annum. The first delivery is timed to reach home about the same time we will, so remember, keep Saturday 23 April free!!!! I'm having a celebration of all things Tasmanian. 

Our next stop was at Pipers Brook Vineyard - the only Tamar Valley winery that I had heard about before arriving in the region. Their cellar door sits dead in the centre of the vineyard. You weave in and out of the rows of un-named vines following small timber signage. As we pull in to the carpark, there are a couple of families. Gen comments that she can't understand why people would bring children to such a venue - and really, I have to agree with her. There is little to keep a child interested and occupied, and we all know what bored kids are like!
By now we have had our fill of cheeses for the day and are actually craving something sweet. The kitchen at Nadines at Pipers Restaurant is closing, but they do offer a Brownie with berries, cream and ice-cream. It was just what we were looking for! This cellar door is much more casual and they offer a bit of everything. You self select the wines you wish to try which are listed under red, white and then sparkling, which to me seems back to front!  Again, given that Gen is driving, we opt to share one wine-tasting. I select the Ninth Island Rose sparkling, then the Ninth Island Reisling and Pipers Tasmania Pinot Grigio to be followed by the New Certan Pinot Noir. That in particular was a very nice drop. I bought a bottle to share with Andrew and Meredith when they arrive at the end of next week, and a bottle of the Pinot Grigio. Hope that they are in a tasting mood - lol!

We could have also visited Jansz Tasmania as they share the land with Pipers Brook, but the cellar doors are closing, so we miss out.

Still, I am comfortably mellowed and am happy to head back into Launceston and Rosevears. We have not yet eaten at the restaurant here and have decided that we will do so tonight. The trip back seems longer than the same one out, and Gen is tiring of the driving (and being in and out of the car repetedly). While we were at Pipers Brook, we phoned and booked dinner for tomorrow night at Alina at Penny Royal. We are doing a Tamar River Cruise and will explore a little of the Cataract Gorge site after the cruise. Our time here is fast coming to an end. Off to the Bay of Fires on Tuesday before Freycinet on Wednesday and then back to Hobart.

Just after 6pm we head down to the Rosevears Hotel, below the units, and walk through to the restaurant. We did not book, as we didn't want to have to cancel a booking a second time if we couldn't fit dinner in! There are a few cars in the car-park, but nothing like that of Friday or last night. Still, the waiter explains that they are almost fully booked and that he can only offer us a table in the rear and up a couple of steps. No problem - we can make that work. The menu is a mix of restaurant and pub food. I choose to have a steak, my first since I have arrived in tasmania. Knowing that I won't be able to finish it, Gen chooses a Marguerite Pizza. Just as well she did, because I could not finish all my meal. The steak, pan-fried field mushrooms with mash and wilted spinach was delicious. Gen enjoyed what was left of the steak. Desserts looked too good to pass up and I had a Turkish Delight Pavlova with cream and persian fairy floss (a tiny amount) and Gen chose the Salted Caramel Popcorn Sundae. Both were deliciously sickly.

Its off to bed now, we have an earlier start tomorrow!

And we thought the food was good over the last couple of days . . .

Well and truly in a food coma last night, I slept like a log. When I finally awake it has gone 9:30 am. I'm not sure how long Gen has been up. "Why didn't you wake me earlier" "Well you must need it" - if only it was that easy.. This is the one drawback of a medicated sleep - it becomes just too easy to sleep the morning away..

Launceston is expecting up to 24 degrees today so we can dispense with some of the layers. Gen is excited to show me some of the Launceston that she visited five years ago.  After an in-room breakfast of fruit toast (baked yesterday at the Rosevears Bakery) and some of our fast dwindling supply of Christmas Hill Road raspberries, we leave the hotel, turning to the south rather than the north today. Property down this end of Rosevears is more developed. There is evidence of older homes - some pre-dating 1900 by the look of them look serenely over the Tamar River - although at this point, it looks more like a lake, it is so wide.

As Rosevears is only 20 minutes north of Launceston, I would find this a beautiful part of the state, and country, in which to live. Along with regal, sleepy older homes stand newer constructs and as we drive around, we see newer homes yet to be finished. They overlook the glistening river, rippling in the sunshine across to a mountain backdrop that on a clear day includes the Cradle Mountain outline! Pretty, pretty special. Also along this winding 'lane' along the water we see two plots of grapes creeping their way gently up the slope, planted to maximise the amount of light that each any every branch can receive. There is not a winery name of either of these so I do not know if there is a small boutique winery here - I'll have a look into it tomorrow.

Before long we are on the Bass Highway in to Launceston. The residents are so lucky - so much property has both a mountain view in the backdrop and a water view in the foreground. Homes are predominantly modest, although when we get into the City Centre, away from the riverside, those homes on the upper streets are more substantial and stately.

We begin our discovery of the city at Queen Victoria Museum at Inveresk. Obviously a local landmark, this space is filled with people. Young and old wandering through the various displays of Tasmania (and Launceston's) development and past. Moving through the natural history displays, Gen can finally put a name to the bird that she has seen but couldn't identify - it is a Brown Skua - similar to a gull, but brown and on steroids (like much on the island). We have seen examples of most of the marsupials in the wild - just not a wombat - although I still hold hope of seeing one before we leave Tasmania.

They have a wonderful Planetarium. Tasmania holds quite a place in the history of astronomy in Australia. It includes examples and the real examples of some of the earlier telescopes, especially radio telescopes that put Tasmania on the astronomical map. We are in time to see the day's first showing of the night sky in the planetarium. Us, and a family of four. Wow. Our astronomer, Rebecca, (with a degree in astrophysics) is very informative. As all of us are seated in one area of the arena, she spins the display so we don't need to dislocate our necks! So, tonight is going to be a great night to see the bands of the Milky Way - too bad it is cloudy in Launceston, just our luck. She points out the latest two exo-planets discovered, including one in the life-sustaining Goldilocks Band - exciting if you are into extra-stellar life, or just a star-junkie like half of the Carkagis clan!

The museum is set in the former railyards and quite a bit of space is given over to exhibits of this former use, and the contribution that they made to the local economy and community. They even covered the conversion of operations during the war times - and we see a new parallel with home where a new munitions factory is nearing completion.

Being inside a museum, the space is climate controlled and now I am getting cold. Thankfully I am carrying my jacket (and in the wheelchair today). I suppose I look like a dork wearing it back-to-front, but who cares, I'm warmer! Outsider you take a look at some of the art exhibits and insallations, I feel better as we walk in and out of the warmer sunshine. But time is galloping and Gen wants me to see the City Park today.

Once the site of Launceston's Government House, the Park was developed by the  Launceston Horticultural Society and handed to the Launceston council in 1863. It is teeming with life - young people hanging out, some new residents (from the sub-continent by their appearance) gleefully taking videos of the Macaque monkeys, families with children, local musicians jamming in the Pavilion dedicated to warmer clime plants, young lovers, a family taking an older member on an outing and a number of large gatherings having planned picnics. It appears to be a well-loved space and offers something for almost everyone. The established trees are nothing short of majestic and the rose and dahlia beds are boasting full blooms. Those dahlias were Dad's favourite flowers and when you see the magnificence of this display, I can see why. Additional to the Pavilion and the monkeys are any number of memorials - you should see the Queen Victoria Cupola now housing drinking bubblers, duck ponds populated by at least four different species we see today, oh, and a miniature tractor-pulled train that seems to want to take every path Gen is pushing me on. I start to think that the driver is deliberately following our route so we have to move out of his way. He doesn't seem to follow a pre-determined route! The weather is beginning to close in and the wind is increasing, so we slowly (uphill) make our way back to the car.

We have brought our latest washing load with us as there are a couple of laundromats listed in Launnie (am I sounding like a local yet, Robyn??). we find one a couple of klms from the city centre and make a bee-line. Gen has the machine ready to load and discovers that we don't have enough in change left, so she walks a block back to a service station to change money. Just over an hour later, we are ready to set off again. 

When we arrived at the museum this morning, we had phoned Stillwater, the restaurant where Gen had a very memorable meal last time she was here. The only booking they can give us is a seating at 5:30 pm. So we book this - with a later breakfast, we feel that we can forgo lunch to allow us to make the most of an early dinner. And by the time Gen finished the washing, it was after 5 pm so we drove through the City and back across the bridge to where Stillwater sits, overlooking the still waters of a 'bay' in the Tamar River - yep, very aptly named.

Now, the service was impeccable. All staff have obviously had extensive front of house training. Water offere, house-made sourdough (soo delicious) is served as we read through the menu - gosh, it all looks so good. How will we choose what to eat?  Mull over it we did and we finally decided on sharing Snacks (starters) of Hot Smoked Salmon Croquettes and Rock Lobster Blinis and then the entree of Beef Tartare with radish.

Mains - I had the Gnocchi and Gen the Rib Fillet (bleu) with beans and potato sides.

Gen had a local Rosè and I had the Pinot Gris. Desserts followed with Gen chosing the Yuzu ice cream and I had the meringue. Could not have eaten or drunk another thing! Stillwater Restaurant was outstanding in food and service.

We've hobbled back to our current home - had a coffee and are now more than ready for bed. Tamar Valley Wine Trail tomorrow before we cruise the Tamar and do the Cataract Gorge on Monday. Time is fast coming to an end and there is still so much to see and do!

The Providores trip continues

The Rosevears Hotel new units are very comfortable. The first two pods (which we did try to book, unsuccessfully, are two bedroom units. so we have had to make do with a studio unit. By now, we are more than used to sharing a bed. This time, we have really lucked in - we have a King bed! I don't take up much space any more - thanks to my back, I can't roll over, so when I lie in my bed, think Mortitia Addams. I don't cross my hands, they are usually down by my sides to keep warm! But you get the picture. So having a king bed means that Gen gets the same amount of space that she would get in her Queen bed back home.

A couple of times late last night and early once in the morning Gen went out to the balcony (after downloading an app to point out south) to have a look to dee if we could see the Aurora Australis. But no luck.

The units are new with modern fixtures and fittings. This room is an all abilities room, so it has a huge bathroom with a shower seat. A little luxury for many, but oh so good when you have no balance to be able to wash your hair without falling, or shave your legs! It also has the warmest heat lamp I have ever felt - I could sit in there for hours!

The hotel offers breakfast Saturday and Sunday only, but very conveniently also houses the Rosevears Bakery. They not only cater to the hotel guests, but to the local community also, so they have a reasonable range. Our room has a kettle and toaster, so we are able to make a coffee and have a baked goodies for breakfast. Today it is ham and cheese croissants and fruit toast. We are carrying enough cheese and fruit, raspberries and apples, to do us for the next couple of days.

Last night we went through the clothes to send home and this morning Gen collected the other carry bags from the car and we packed 3 bags of clothing wrapped bottles and tubs, ready to be posted home. We weren't sure of the weights, so didn't seal them till we got to the Post Office in Exeter, the closest town above 7 kms away. Surprisingly all 3 were under the 5 kg limit, even though i was sure that at least one of them would be over.

From Exeter, we decided to visit the House of Anvers Chocolate Factory first as this was the furtherest from where we are. It should have taken just under an hour, but thanks to some roadworks being done on the Bass Highway, it took us 20 minutes longer. First of all, we travel those very English-looking valleys that we travelled through yesterday. As we eventually got close to the Factory, we see a recently ploughed field and standing proud as punch over a felled small wallaby or perhaps a pademelon was a beautiful Wedge Tailed Eagle. She was HUGE and her kill was dwarfed by her. Too bad that we were in traffic and I couoldn't get a photo to share with you all. But both Gen and I both have that photo in our brain-bank!

Anyway, we finally get to the chocolate factory. We have been pretty lucky with the crowds and here is no different. Yes, there were people here, but the grounds are quite large and so there was plenty of space for everyone. We start in the museum, reading the history of chocolate and how central Europe came to be chocolate processing leaders. There are two major processing areas that are on view to the public through two large viewing windows. Both Gen and I agree that we would hate to have to do our daily work under the constant scrutiny of strangers. Not able to scratch your head (or elsewhere!), or stretch your back. No thanks. Still its very interesting for us to watch, lol! There are literally hundreds of moulds used for chocolate making, some very old with prussian and early chinese patterns; some bakelite similar to the first ones I ever had, through to the recent hard plastic and the newest silicone moulds. 

The cafe is in what must be the original home on the estate - think 1930s with leadlights and lots of rich timber. We sit and order a hot chocolate - Gen a traditional one and me a vanilla white chocolate one. Then we see they have waffles. Oh yes! Gen has chocolate and I have lemon curd. Both served with cream and ice-cream. Should have all been good, but it wasnt, in the best possible way. These waffles were twice the size of those that you get anywhere else, AND THERE WERE TWO OF THEM. EACH. Needless to say. neither of us could finish. I wish they had told us, we would have shared a single serve!

We are now half an hour from the Ashgrove Cheese Company. I'm dreading getting there, but only because I am so completely full! But get there we did. A family run enterprise, what the Bennett family has done is a real credit to them. Facing limited opportunities with the introduction of the big multi-nationals, they were at a crossroads. Their business model had to change if they were to continue, but obviously very resilient and willing to 'have-a-go' in the Australian vernacular, they have made their gamble pay off. The enterprise now not only controls their milk production, but have diversified to now provide a complete paddock to plate business, manufacturing milk, cream and a great range of cheeses. 

The visitor experience includes a very efficient and large visitor centre that provides fun and practical information on the various productions involved within their business. I can see how it would be very popular with primary schools as the information is well laid out and logical with enough hands on, media presentations and 'through the window' viewing platforms. My favourite was the window into the Nursery, where you can view the wheels of cheese ageing in a climate controlled room.  Of course!

For the princely sum of $12 you can have a tasting plate of five of their standard cheeses plus a dealers choice, which today is a soft cheese with figs - gee, she must think she knows me!! In order of tasting they were Eaglehawk Neck Heavenly Havarti, Cradle Mountain Double Gloucester, Mt Roland Bush Pepper, Walls of Jerusalem wild Wasabi, Bay of Fires Rubicon Red and the Soft Cheese with Fig. I'm telling you that they are all very very  good. The Wasabi-scented cheese was a little too hot for my poor palate, but still tasty (or at least the tiny piece I sampled was). Don't ask me for a favourite - that's like asking a mum to nominate a favoured son or daughter - just ain't goin' to happen!  Gen is finding a new liking for a range of cheeses that she probably wouldn't try at home. Gosh, the lengths I have to go to educate her, lol.

So, photos of eclectic cows taken, and online purchase versus local purchase plus postage considered (on-line won out at the advice of the shop attendant) we leave Ashgrove, very impressed with what we have seen. We have previously purchased Ashgrove Cheese at our local Coles and Woolworths, it is reassuring to know that the quality control espoused on their packaging is implemented in the processing of that cheese. I will definitely continue to happily buy Ashgrove Cheeses well into the future.

Back on to the highway (and those roadworks) for our last destination for the day, we head back to Christmas Hills Road. Across the road from the Raspberry Farm is the Van Dieman's Land Ice Creamery. We had been so full yesterday to consider even trying it, and I am not sure why we thought that today might be any different. But try it we will. Its like not wanting to waste the last morsel of food on a plate!

I'm almost glad that we have left this to the last. What we are presented with is little more than an up-market ice-cream shop. Beautifully presented, but there is no opportunity to see any process of the ice-cream making production other than a snapshot-window behind the ice-cream sellers into the final production room where ice-cream is being pumped into containers. Its a bit of a let-down in a region that goes out of its way to bring in the consumer to the whole process of growth and prouction. Still, the ice-cream is worth writing home about. We both decide that all we can manage is a child's serve in a cup rather than it's grown-up waffle cone counterpart. Gen selects the Pepperberry and Leatherwood Honey Ice-cream and I choose the Salted Lime Gelato. I'm not sure which is better - they are both soooo good! The honey flavour was strong, but not sickly and the Gelato was very palate cleansing. Just what the doctor ordered!

At this point, we look at each other and I am sure that we are thinking the same thing - there is no way we are going to be able to front up for dinner that Gen booked at the Rosevears Hotel tonight. She makes the call as soon as we arrive back at the hotel and cancels our reservation. It must have been about 9, maybe 9:30 pm that we share some raspberries, I have the remaining fig cheese that we brought home from the Ashgrove Cheese tasting with my raspberries in a croissant bought for breakfast and Gen finishes some dip with crackers that we have been carrying in our cold bag for the last 24 hours.

Its be a big day and to say I'm shagged is a total understatement. Off to bed with us. I'll sleep the sleep of the sated (more likely stuffed!) tonight.   

Penguin as only you could imagine it and Red-Beard to rescue memories

After arriving at about 8 pm last night at the Penguin Seaside Motel, and soon learning that the train we heard pass by the rear of the motel was a freight train and the only one for the night, we could relax. The room was huge with a large queen bed, a table with 6 chairs, a sitting area and a bedroom with another Queen and two single beds plus an ample kitchenette and roomy wheelchair friendly bathroom. As I still don't have a working keyboard - we guess the batteries are flat, we abandon the blog for tonight and watch a bit of Ambulance!

This morning we have arranged to meet a friend from my teen years - Bruce Harpley - for breakfast in Ulverstone, about 9 kms away. Driving in to town last night we saw the very Australian BIG PENGUIN. We will come back for a look-see after Ulverstone. But for now, we turn on Maps on my phone and set of to find a cafe called Daltons in Ulverstone. On KI (King Island as it will be abbreviated from here on) we blamed the poor maps for difficulties in finding places. Bruce had given us the address of the Dalton Cafe, but still we drive down Victoria Street and cannot see it. I turn on Street View and we see that the address displays a physiotherapist business. Am I going bonkers or what? I'm about to contact Bruce again when Gen spies it! Daltons is down the lane, behind the physiotherapist.

At least we know how where to go, now to get parking. Yippee - right ouside the door. As we get out of the car, Bruce is walking across the carpark. OMG, apart from the fact that we are both carrying many years, I would recognise him anywhere - well, I must admit I wasn't expecting a red beard, but otherwise he looks just like I remember him. We are shown to our table and order breakfast, the waiter asks Bruce about colouring his budgies by feeding them cochineal, (which goes right over my head - obviously not the brightest early in the morning). Yes, I get it know that he was having a go at the beard!! 

Our breakfasts - Coffee and poached eggs for Bruce and Coffee and Eggs Benedict for Gen and I - mine with salmon, Gen's with Ham and Avocado - are served with a smile. There are quite a few other diners and heaps of people getting a coffee on their way to work. The food is good and a lovely change from pies and egg and bacon rolls! Time flies when you are reminiscing and catching up with 40 years of life events.  We were telling him of our recent trip to KI and he said that the golfing industry on the island is huge. However, most of the players are flown over in chartered planes on a Saturday morning from Melbourne and play 18 holes before returning by charter flight to Melbourne that night and then fly back on Sunday for a second 18 holes before returning home via the charter  flight, again. You have got to be kidding me?!!

Turns out its a 45 - 55 minutes flight from Melbourne, so I guess it's feasible. Sure as sh*t means that the opportunity for re-developing that motel is definitely a goer. Anyone got a spare $2.5M they want to invest with me? Reckon we could double our money in 6-8 years! Think, golf packages, partner spa packages, REAL foodie experiences? Talk with me if you are interested! A conversation we overheard at lunch at the golf club before we left KI now makes perfect sense. The women said that they were going to stay in Melbourne shopping when the men came back the next day! 

But again, I digress (that is unless someone is interested in investing with me!)
We finished our breakfast and said our goodbyes for probably the next 40 years, although we did issue an invite should he ever be up to see friends he has in Bargara - yep, its a small world! Bruce has given us a list of a few must-sees before we leave the area and has generously given us bottle of Ryan and Pop's Honey - Bruce's bees output that he filters with the help of one of his grandsons. How lovely.

Back out in today's warm sun, we head west again, slightly back-tracking to visit Fern Glade. Gen visited here when she was in Tasmania 5 years ago and Bruce has suggested a couple of spots in particular to check. We are looking for Platypus! Its still and quiet, with few cars and just as few people. We park at the far car-park and walk along the edge of the Emu River. The path is lined with Tree Ferns that tower over both Gen and I. We walk quietly, very quietly but all we see are birds, a duck nibbling away at the water's edge and then "Mum, mum" Gen urgently whispers "Look" and there it is a platypus swimming just under the surface. A little further on, we get within 2 feet of two pademelons. Right on the edge of a major urban area!! Our morning's walk ended 500m later at the carpark area where Bruce suggested we might see platypus. But despite standing there, noiselessly for about 20 minutes, we are not rewarded with any more platypus sightings.

Now, we have collected just a few things we need to get home on this trip and have decided that we will post most home. We could just book for and pay for more luggage, but it was enough of a struggle for Gen with the luggage we bought with us without adding to it lol . We have some post bags and went through un-needed clothing and other 'stuff' this morning. So elated that we saw a platypus, we drove back into Penguin with the first three bags plus a few other parcels going direct.

The town of Penguin is home to the Big? PENGUIN! As we park the car opposite the Post Office, the Big Penguin is behind us, and along the kerbside next to us are penguin bollards - might mention that to some of our local Councillors - I'm sure Mary Poppins bollard could look cutely kitsch! We look at some of the other Penguin themed street infrastructure - bins, sets, signs while we wait our turn for a photo. There is a lady taking of photo of two other ladies and Gen asks if she would like to have a photo with them. Turns out she was a local who had just volunteered to take their photo, and offers to do the same for us. Very friendly she was - a local ambassador who had stepped out from the local VIC to give directions to other tourists. How lovely.

There are what seems like hundreds of hot-rods in Penguin today. The same volunteer tells us that there a Show and Shine on here this weekend. Would not have thought there could be so many hot rods in Tasmania - but then again, perhaps some of them came over from Melbourne! We had a milkshake, and shared a Penguin biscuit and a currant  square at the Penguin Country Bakehouse.

Leaving Burnie, we headed down the Bass Highway towards the Christmas Hill Raspberry Farm.  OMG - hang on - down that way is the Spreyton Factory! The Spreyton Cider Company makes amazing ciders, ginger beers and non-alcoholic versions. You can do a tasting - 5 ciders and their ginger beer on a paddle, so we share one. I have always liked cider and Gen likes the sweeter ones too. The winner today is the Apple Raspberry Cider - it has depth in apple and the sweet, slight tang of raspberry. You can certainly taste the raspberry - and it is a taste that we have grown very fond of over this last month! Hmm (gently looking skywards) might be another box coming home. 
Its not sold anywhere outside Tasmania and although Uncle Dans will list the basic Spreyton Cider on their wesite, it is always unavailable as explained by their bartender Markus, who now lives in Australia after leaving Italy - in the north, in the Dolomites (another truly beautiful place on this earth!)  Turns out that Spreytons use a courier to deliver their goods, so we add a few jams, brandy, relish etc - there is no limit to the weight, so long as it will fit in the box - and there is a bigger box I can use!!
In order to soak up the alcohol - it was only equivalent to one standard drink - we ordered a bowl of hot chips. They were so good! And now, we are soooo full!

The afternoon is gaining on us now and we want to get to the Raspberry Farm, so we push off again.  Finally we arrive. It must be time for afternoon tea and it is certainly time for coffee. We are shown to a sunny table and I select a raspberry crepe and Gen, Waffles with Rasberries. OMG they are so good. I kid you not, the raspberries here as a big as a thimble. Each single globule bursts under the pressure of your tooth, filling your mouth with the most intense flavour. We make yet another few purchases, including 500g of fresh raspberries for the next day or three - IF I can make them last that long.

As the afternoon shadows lengthen we decide that we need to stop stopping at every food outlet we come across (we'll have to come back to the Anvers Chocolate Factory, the Ashgrove Cheese Factory and Van Dieman's Ice Creamery - probably tomorrow. So we punch in Rosevears and head for the Hotel where we have a room booked for the next 4 nights. We head cross country through picturesque English looking fields, with the every present Cradle Mountain in the background. Arriving in the Tamar Valley, we turn left towards the Tamar River and following the sparkling sun dancing on here waters, passing by marshy patches close to the road until we reach the Rosevears Hotel. Established in 1831, there are a number of new 'pod' like units built on the hill behind the majestic building standing sentinel over her stretch of the river. The KI folk could certainly learn a lesson here!   

OMG so sick of the UAP (some mongrel named Clive or something) adverts using all the scaremongering - 85% of all mortgages will default and you will lose your home, UAP will make all superinvestments be made in Oz.  How I hope that all of us who know any smidgeon of knowledge of the mechanics of government can share that with at least one other - ignorance will be the killer in this election. And mongrels will use any scare tactic to try to get a vote. grrrrr  

Totally knackered now - I'm off to bed. Chat later.

And in came the rain and those roaring forties

So we wake his morning to a full-on storm. I mean rain, not showers with the wind behind it. In this weather it is easy to imagine how a ship's captain could not hold his vessel against the raging of mother nature. And with the seas whipped up, we have a better view of some of the rock hazards. Bigger waves are breaking off-shore on hidden dangers. Altogether very bleak. We hear the coach arrive to collect the tour group as we live in bed a few minutes longer to ward off the cold. Slowly the other rooms empty and before long, we are the last room to leave.

We have received an email from the airline saying that due to operational requirements our flight is now departing later. We are now leaving King Island at 17:25 with arrival back in Wynyard at 17:55. From there we have a half hour drive to our accommodation in Penguin. I have managed to get in touch with Bruce Harpley who lives a few miles away in Ulverstone and we are catching up for breakfast tomorrow morning en-route to Launceston. 

Gen again went into the Bakehouse for our breakfast and hooray, has managed to get me a Crayfish Pie (at $15!). It is delicious. In a soft curry sauce, which is what the Taswegians seem to put all their seafood in for pies - think fish, think prawns, think scallops (roe on) and now also think crayfish (lobster)! It had plenty of crayfish - both in big chunks and smaller pieces generously spread amongst the sauce. She bought herself another egg and bacon roll - both had been cooked to order. She enjoys her roll and I made sure I left her some of that scrumptious pie to taste!

Given the unpleasant weather today we decided to drive along the other fully sealed road on the Island. We had wanted to visit the Cultural Centre but as the main 'tourist season' (March) is done, it is now only open by appointment. 

You know, there is a huge opportunity going begging here. The motel, which is for sale, is very tired and the restaurant is under different management. Yet the coastal location is supberb overlooking the rolling sea with private access to a small rock sheltered beach. I have no idea what the sale value is, but even if it were $1M, another investment of $500K+ to revamp the rooms, restaurant and the grounds (including the access road) and you could have a great return with groups - and especially golf groups. But I digress (again) 

Naracoopa is sited on the east coast about halfway up the coast and the mid-point between Grassy and Cape Wickham where we went on our first day. 

Naracoopa reminded us of many of the sleepy coastal townships that can be found right along the East Coast of Australia. In fact, it reminds me very much of Woodgate of a few years ago. There is one street fronting the beach with most of the homes being holidays homes that are deserted at present. There is evidence of some newer building works happening - you know the time - those slip, sultry buildings in the colour of their surroundings so as not to compete with the landscape - filled with timber and glass. Personally, I can't imagine that in a few years they will remain as schmick. The timber will cop a lot of weather, as will the tin rooves like we have seen elsewhere on the island, and although I would love to be sitting in a warm house looking out through large picture windows - but honestly, keeping them clean against all that salty water would be a *itch to clean! (Gotta love our textured Kosciusko glassed windows back home - they require little cleaning!  😉)

Just "a few kilometres north", remembering the mud map as opposed to anything accurate, near Sea Elephant Bay, is supposed to be Blowhole Beach. So off we set. The road is on the map, so we are safe, albeit somewhat sandy. Gen does a great job navigating the potholes (and then we come on some Council workers doing some grading!) and when we get out to Blowhole Beach there is already one car there. Given the soft sand and the rain, it is decided that Gen will go have a look and see whether the walk is Maria-doable. She comes back in less than 10 minutes to say that if there is a blowhole, she can't find it, nor can she find any landform that would even remotely look like it could produce a spout of water of any form. By now, there are another two cars parked here - and we cross paths with another couple of people that we've seen a few times over the last two days. 

We are the second car to leave and we turn left back towards Naracoopa and not continuing on an increasingly challenging road further to Sea Elephant Bay. There is a sign advertising coffee, but like other operators, I guess they have headed for the mainland for winter - closed. So a quick nip down to the long wharf where once there was sealing prevalent, but no longer.

Turning back for Currie we opt to stay on the fully sealed road and this time not take the scenic route. Gen is now sick of gravel roads and sandy tracks - she can now say "been there, done that!" Its getting late for lunch and although we have loved the great pies from the King Island Bakehouse, we are also craving something that is not a pie by now. One of the three golf courses on the Island is next door to the motel where we stayed, so we called in there to see if we could get some lunch.

Yes, we can. It is fairly basic fare but my burger and Gen's battered fish (Gummy = shark) and chips was fresh and crisp. This restaurant is being operated by people of Indian descent - if only I could be sure that the curry on offer was not too spicy, I would have preferred to give it a go, but alas my mouth and stomach take so little heat these days.😪

We continued down to Beach which is just beyond the motel, down the next dune so to speak and found the other big industry here - the King Island Kelp Factory. 

Bull kelp is harvested from the beaches of King Island by independent contractors. At present there are only 6 licensed harvesters, who must take only from what mother nature has 'donated'. They cannot harvest from the rocks. The kelp is dried on high, hanging S shaped hooks, then racks to air dry, before being fed into wood fired kilns for dehydrating. Most of the Australian supply is shipped to Ireland for processing into Alginate Acid which is used extensively in the food and pharmaceutical industries, just to name two.

One last destination to visit before we leave this interesting destination. Located close to the airport, we visited the award winning King Island Distillery. Owned and operated and Heidi Weitjins, this was a gem of a find. They distil King Island gin, vodka, brandy and  limoncello. Gen is really taken with the Ruby Grapefruit Spirit, and thankfully they can arrange post, so we relieve them of some of their stock (hic). One gin in particular is interesting. Heidi's partner is a cray-fisher and they took a barrel of their gin and aged it at sea! It has a different taste - no doubt influenced by the cask being exposed to the salt-ladden air. The cellar door is actually their distilling plant, and as we taste and discuss each sample with Heidi, her partners are beginning to bottle the last of the Gin from that sea-aged barrel! We drove right past it at first, following google maps which takes you beyond it. The trick is to follow the signs, even if it doesn't look like a cellar door! More evidence of the poor maps.

At the Airport, we leave the car, with keys in the ignition, as per instructions, and head into the terminal. We are early by about 2 hours, but really, there is little else to see given the remaining time. There are only 9 people booked on the plane, so again they have allocated the back row to us. BUT, there are about 40-50 people at the airport terminal. We see two jets - a Sharp Airlines and a REX plane plus a number of smaller planes. Turns out, we watch 4 other planes leave before ours lands, disgourging another tour group, and is ready for departure. Our plan is flying to Launceston via Wynyard.

Gen is very very tense - it is very cloudy and she is apprehensive about possible turbulence. One belted in, she grabs the seatbelt from the seat between us and wraps it tightly around her hand. I tell her that the trick is to try not to get too tensed up and suggest that she hold my hand instead. "But I don't want to hurt you" she says. You won't I tell her. The take-off was a little bumpy, but it was surprisingly smooth thereafter. I keep asking her if she can see land in an effort to keep her mind off her fear and she visibly relaxes. Finally we see land and can identify The Nut at Stanley and Table Cape just a little further east before we touch down.

So, King Island done and dusted. I am glad we went, but it was nothing like what we were expecting. All I can say is that the marketeers have done a fabulous job. For the Island itself, it needs some major investment and renewal.

Back in the car, or as Gen 'lovingly' refers to it, the POS, having paid the ridiculous sum of $12 for 3 days parking, we head back through Burnie and further east to our overnight stop in Penguin. The motel is right on the main road, with a rail line plus freight train behind us. The unit is HUGE and well set-out and supplied for someone with mobility challenges.

Those Roaring Forties - famed in this region

So the morning dawns wet and windy. Roaring forties is isn't but it is more blustery than yesterday. The whitecaps are dancing in the bay in front of our unit. And the exposed front of the motel units are being showered with salt-laden air blown in from the water over the low bushes that have also succumbed to the stiff breeze. Certainly explains the rusting on outdoor furniture and window and door frames.

The motel has a tired, defeated air. Planter boxes outside each room have plants that are clinging stubbornly to life. Just. The rooms are clean, we have met the cleaner both days - she is pleasant and seems efficient, but everything is being done on a tight budget. The motel has a For Sale sign, but any buyer will be knocking down the dollars for sure. The 'accessible' room that we have been allocated is nothing of the sort. There has been a token effort - handrails have been added to the toilet and shower but the facilities themselves are not accessible - it would meet any standard inspection.

It has a comfortable bed, but when you see all the schmick advertising for King Island this is not what you expect.

In fact, King Island has not been anything like what we expected. There is beauty here, a rugged defiant beauty. The land is under considerable strain. When we tell people we are from Queensland, they beg us to send the rain this way. The land is in drought and looks like it has been for some time. Its yellow and dry and the incessant wind is eroding areas where uncounted heads of cattle have walked the same path one after another time after time. There are not a lot of large trees, there are stands of paper-barks and stringy mulga with the odd white gums that shed their shards so that they drape on the bushy undergrowth. When we drive through wooded areas there is enough ti-tree that you can smell it on the air.

Gen goes down to the Bakery to buy Egg and Bacon Rolls for breakfast and adds cheddar to each and avocado to hers. They are delicious. Freshly made on lovely soft long rolls with crusty semolina tops. They are too big for me to finish, but only because of the generosity of the fillings. And the coffee is good. And strong. Mmmm.

We have decided to take a look at the south of the island today. We head out towards Grassy (grassy what, afterall, it is usually an adjective) and take a detour to see the Calcified Forest. Remembering what we were told by the car rental agent, if its on the map, its okay. So we confidently set down the gravel road. Now, the same rental agent also told us that the map is not accurate. As we lose GPS on Gen's phone, we also learnt that this statement is very very true. Distances are approximations only and roads are not marked accurately - like listed once when there are two entrqances, like distances not being anywhere near correct - kind of helps to explain why so many ships hit the rocks - the directions are shite, and have been so for hundreds of years! But the outcome of not being where you think you are is that you are more likely to have an adventure!

We head off on what we think is Seal Rocks Road, and later turned out it was Seal River Road. The road (read bush track) gets sandy. Gen tenses up and I tell her to breathe. Let the car find its own way. We finally end up at a locked gate and the track abruptly stops. So we turn around and go back to the junction, only then realising that we mis-read the sign and have travelled down Seal River Road, not Seal Rocks Road. We continue on what is now the correct road, gravel but much better than the bush track we have just left. We work out that we have been down to the Colliers Swamp Conservation Area, getting as far as Big Lake. Our plan had been to visit the Calcified Forest just near Seal Roacks. Nearing the correct site, we see a new(ish) Parks and Wildlife sign announcing that we have indeed arrived at the Calcified Forest! Well, we have arrived at the carpark.

As I mentioned earlier, the map is at best a mud map, the signs are just as contradictory!  One sign says 630m each way and the other says 1.5 km return. While my maths might have once been questionable, even can calculate that the two figures differ by 240m. Not a big deal normally, but to me it most definitely IS a big deal. I had said to Gen this morning that I would have a go at walking the track - it is graded a 2 - easy, but not wheelchair friendly. Just after leaving the carpark we are met with the first of the uphill sections. Now, remember that the base landform here is one of dunes. And dunes travel (might explain the dicsrepancy in the length) but these are well stabilised dunes with grasses, mulga, ti-tree and the odd gum. Up hill, down hill we walk. And again, and again. In steeper parts, the path has been compacted with light gravel and edging boards, but overall it is very sandy. We have been walking for about 30 minutes with Gen leading the way and pausing every 40 - 50m to turn back and check that I am still following. Its about now that my legs are heading for jelly, as I said, an easy walk compounded by the sand. We see yet another hill so Gen suggests that I wait a minute while she pushes forward to see how much further it is. she is back quickly to announce tht the walk ends just over the next hill BUT it ends at a 100m walk across loose sand before you reach a timber viewing platform. With timber steps that begin with a large step from soft sand. Disappointed was not the word either of us use. There is now way that I can do this safely. So Gen pushes on to climb the platform and get some photos, while I turn to walk slowly back to the car. Now, natue is a strange beast - there is a small swallow on the path ahead of me. We chirp away together as I plod on. About 30m ahead, it hops ahead of me, stopping frequently to make sure I'm still with him. My own light avian guide!

I get to the car about 4 minutes before Gen and am happy to stop, leaning against the dusty car to catch my breath. Too bad I didn't think to get one of the bananas or the water we are carrying from Gen before we parted! She's back before I know it and we both have a well-earned drink, draining the water-bottle dry. Sitting back in the car, we eat our bananas and are set to leave when another car arrives. Out hops a lady who takes a pack out. Booted up, pack on her back, I am sure that she was better suited to take that walk and even if it was a 1.5km return walk, it probably only felt like 1260m to her! Still I'm proud of myself. I would have walked just over a kilometre - the best I've done in a long time and even a low-graded walk, I can't help but think that if an anthropologist were to walk that path today, they would probably scratch their head and at our tracks (how do you explain a perfectly round small indent alongside my footprint?!

We still haven't reached Grassy (grassy what??) so decide to give Surprise Bay where another boat was wrecked. Back to Pearshape - yes, that is the name of a locality here -settlers obviously had a sense of humour - can't believe that they have named an area Snodgrass - a favourite Goon character of Michaels! We get to Grassy - the second largest settlement on the Island and is laid out in a more ordered grid pattern. Still very tired looking, there is evidence of some newer construction. Lord knows what it would cost to build over here- all construction materials would need to be freighted in by barge. But for the most, it is simple weatherboard construction which weathers poorly really - it is whited-out, an outcome of inhospitable weather. The most modern building here apart from one or two swanky new-come homes, is the hospital.

Right along this coast there are countless shipwrecks. And its easy to see why. The Island itself might be sandy, but it is completely enclosed by rocky outcrops and platforms. There is another lighthouse, the main port that had been used until the 1990s to ship scheelite mined just above the port. This is a mineral used in the making of tungestan and the company will have made some tidy $ during its operation, but they have done a very poor effort to rehablilitate the land. At the point beyond the port, which is now used to live-ship beef cattle (We see one laden trailer being shipped to the wharf area) there is a Penguin colony. As it is the middle of the day, we don't bother going all the way down to it as they are nocturnal and so will only be seen at night. We want to visit the Historical Museum at Currie that is only open and manned by volunteers every second day, so today it is. It is open between 2 and 4, and its almost 2pm now.

We follow the main road back and ignore Siri when she wants us to take the scenic route. There are lots of wildlife for us to encounter on the way back, all of which like to use the roads, perhaps because it warms up during the day. We dodge wallabies, pademelons, Cape Barren Geese, domestic turkeys (gone wild) farmed geese and a myriad of birds - turn out that the Island is a bird haven with a number of hides strategically located at various sites across the island - Cecile would love it! We see eagles, hawks, thousands of finces, and of swallows, magpies on steroids, butcher birds and more black birds than there are people on the Island. We even encounter a small herd of Black Angus cattle on the road and patiently need to wait for them to decide which way they will scamper.

Like the rest of Australia, roadworks rule the activity here - there are a number of projects being funded with federal government funding displaying the all familiar signage that I know from work. And with that construction we also see a tree-feling crew - god knows why, the trees are already well back from the narrow roads.  As Gen says, "why are they knocking down our CO2 filters? Lots of newly sealed roads with loose stones. Gen drives like a pro!

We well and truly get our laugh for the day when Gen pulls alongside a gaggle of geese, oh hang on, it was a rafter of turkeys and we spend a few, minutes gobble gobbling back and forward with then. The rooster is becoming quite indignant, probably at our atrocious pronunciation, so we head off laughing before he thinks to attack us!

Finally we arrive back at Currie. We want to have a look at the King Island Museum which is manned by volunteers and only open every other day. Turns out today is the only day it will be open while we are here. It's on the edge of town just below yet another lighthouse. It's only when you get up to lighthouse levels that you can get a true appreciation for the treachery of the rocks. Close to the shore there are a myriad of rock ledges and platforms, and just past them, there are rocky outcrops where the waves break. Makes for testing photos, but I can only imagine how difficult it would be to navigate.

Turns out, the museum is the former Lighthouse Keepers house. At 8 rooms, it was definately the most substantial building in the town. It has been built to weather the weather! The walls are about a foot thick and made of sandstone. The steps up into each room is large and the floorboards are wide original timbers. The museum has one volunteer on duty.  She tells us that she contacted her friend on her way in telling her that town didn't seem busy so there was no need for her to come in as well! Turns out she was wrong and so she was kept very busy - there three other groups there at the same time as us. She was a wealth of local knowledge and passionate about the island and its people. Each room has been develop around a theme. Is it obvious that this museum has had the support of a professional catalogue service. The exhibits are well displayed and relate well to the theme of the room. Gen isn't really a museum kind of person, but here she finds enough to keep her busy while I drink in family histories and even read up a bit on some of the shipwrecks. The volunteer was saying that up until 1976 anyone could salvage from shipwrecks, but that after that it was banned. One of the visitors commented that she saw evidence of someone with a metal detector on one of the beaches this morning.

I was asking the volunteer (Val) whether there had been a resurgence of population in town, based on the ABS statistics that I read this morning. She was delighted to tell me that there had been a number of younger families with ties to the history of the Island returning, bringing much needed children - so much so that an extra teacher has been sent to the school. We have seen much evidence of young ones, but it is still the school term, so I guess they are inside mostly on weekdays.

We have booked accommodation in for dinner tonight at Boomerang By The Sea- the motel where we are staying - by all a counts it is a good restaurant and at the time of booking we see that it is operated by different people. After our visit to the museum we had gone back to our unit and I had had a sleep - that walk had done me in today!

We hear cars arrive and when we open the door just before 7 to walk around to the restaurant, the car park is full.

Up some unfriendly steps into the restaurant which is not quite full, but definitely doing a good trade. We are seated near a large picture window that in the long summer days (and with the added benefit of daylight saving a mere week ago) would have afforded a stunning view. Tonight all we see is black as the sun had set hours ago. The menu is definitely more upmarket than the pub last night but I am disappointed that there is so little seafood on offer. A friend Prue sends a message to make sure we try the King Crab - oh, if only that was a choice.

There is a tour group of 8 people in and they are all served a half crayfish each - it must have been prearranged as it is not on the menu 😳. 

We select a fried Camembert with fig and walnut jam to share as a starter, served with foccacia. Not what we expect, but much lighter and to be honest, nicer. Gen is thrilled that they have a good selection of meat choices and settles for Aged King Island Scotch Fillet, cooked blue and served with confit local potatoes, baby carrots and brocollini. I had the Prawn and Crab Papardelle - hold the chilli. It to was cooked to perfection, although a very big serve with 8 large prawns still succulent and quite a bit of Crab broken through the dish. Our preferred King Island chesse plate was sold out (what the?!) so we chose a creme brulee and a Sundae. Hard to stuff those up. Port arrived, but coffee didn't. Not quite what we expected. We both got the feeling that the main tourism market is the golfer these days - overhearing the partners of the chest-bumping golfers, we get the impression that they feel likewise.

Back to our room, down those steps (our waiter was nice enough to offer a hand) and I begin the blog. Internet coverage drops out well before I am finished so I go to bed frustrated to have lost an hours worth of wit. 😞 😞