The Tamar River and Cataract Gorge - two of Tasmania's natural beauties

True to form, after an overcast weekend, the Monday start to the working week has dawned bright and clear. This bides well for our Tamar River Cruise this morning! Think though that I need to pace myself a bit better - following the wine tasitng yesterday and a glass of wine with dinner, I need an extra Ondansetron this morning.

Now that we are getting close to the end of this adventure, we are planning a little strategically just what we are posting home versus what we are carrying, knowing that we have a few days in Brisbane before actually heading home. Gen has begun looking at the weather at home, as well as the daily weather here. She's not liking what she is seeing! The first couple of days when we get back are hot, humid and even raining. Won't worry me, I plan on catching up on some sleep for the first day or two!!

You have to love the new technologies that we have at our fingertips these days. We plug into Google Maps the departure address for our cruise this morning to be informed that at this time of the day, on a weekday, our trip should take us 27 minutes - that means we can spend a quarter of an hour or so planning what to send home wit Meredith when we leave Hobart.

Into the Launceston Sea Port we drive to join our extended tour on the Tamar River Cruises. There are quite a number of people milling about - including as the captain later introduces, a couple celebrating their 53rd anniversary. Wow, now that is an achievement! We set off right on the dot of 10, with more people than I thought would be cruising on Monday, but when we consider the number of people who appear to be touring in Tasmania at the moment, I guess it makes sense.

Anyway, our captain Lynn (a male) is another dry wit, with lots of little quips!
The morning cruise that only does the Cataract Gorge left 15 minutes earlier and as we enter under the Kings Bridge, it passes us on its return to the wharf. We continue to where the Gorge is ponded at Basin 1, to provide controlled water flow to the city's first hydro-electric power system.

The bridge was needed to allow the population easy passage over the Esk River (which flows into the Tamar Basin.) Local manufacturers did not yet have the capability to cast the steel needed for the bridge, so the contract was awarded to a firm in  Manchester, England, transported in pieces to Launceston and assembled on a pontoon and floated into position and then lowered on to its abutments on the receding tide. Despite the challenges, it worked perfectly, first time! But in no time, the local uproar about the short-sightedness of building a single lane bridge soon won out and a local firm was contracted to replicate the first span and a second span was installed to make it a two lane bridge. Nowadays, the Kings Bridge shares the traffic load with the newer Paterson Bridge constructed in the early 1970's and opened in 1973. Together they connect Launceston city with the north-west.

Lynn's commentary was very proud of Launceston's achievements. If ever there was a worthy ambassador for this City, he was leading us on our tour today. He kept apologising for the weather "beautiful one day, better the next!" Think that slogan is already taken Lynn!! But I have to admit, today it suited well to this Tasmanian idyll.
The sun is high, without a single cloud. The water, on a waning tide, is as smooth as a piece of glass. Motoring out of the harbour under speed restrictions there was barely enough wash from the boat to raise a ripple. We pass not only suburbs that have examples of every style of architecture from the Victorian and Federation through to the modern day - all in one view; but examples of Launceston's prowess in industry. For example, all the tugboats in Tasmania and many from Victoria and South Australia are serviced here. They can turnaround a full inspection and water worthiness certification in a week.

Lynn tells of the founding fathers of the city and this part of Tasmania. It is very like the settlement of our own Maryborough in Queensland. There are rags to riches reports, stories of gentlemen convicts and of enterprising entrepreneurs who right to the modern day have shaped the skyline and successes of the City. The Velo Winery has been established by Michael Wilson as a tribute to his career as a former Olympic cyclist. We pass by the Rosevears area and see the Rosevears Hotel where we are staying. Turns out the accommodation developed here cost in the order of $5.3M and the developer has approval to develop a $15M marina that is yet to be commenced.

We are now travelling at cruising speed and the wash from the boat creates significant waves that we see slam into the banks that have been planted with a rice-plant in an effort to stabilise the banks and minimise the continual siltation of the river. When boats such as this can create the impact that it does, this is always going to be a lost battle. Yet, despite our speed, we are still travelling slow enough to see a Sea Eagle resting atop one of the channel markers and Gen was in the right place at the right time when he decided to take flight and she manages to photograph him on the wing!

And not only do we see the sea eagle, we also see a wedge Tailed Eagle, lots of water fowl, black swans and on the return journey Lynn tells us there is a seal off the aft bow, but we can't see it. The siltation of the river has threatened the commercial port status of the city of Launceston. And despite all efforts, all mitigation efforts have not made an iota of difference to the efforts of mother nature!

Turns out, that sitting on a tidal river also makes Launceston vulnerable to 1:100 year floods when the city is in receipt of severe storms! Just like home again!! In the 1990s, the city installed a levee that has very successfully protected the infrastructure in later events and when the next 1:100 year event hit in 2016 the city stood dry thanks to that levee. Now, I wonder how the Tamar River and Basin compare to the Mary River? Actually, I don't (wonder that is). The two river geomorphology of the two systems could not be more different!

On board we were served morning tea once we had cleared Kings Bridge - brewed coffee or tea with muffins, biscuits and Lions Club christmas cake ("who doesn't love a good fruit cake," asked Lynn, "and the Lions make the best"). We then travelled toward the mouth to the Batman Bridge - not the nana nana nana nana type, but the cantilevered bridge, and Australia's first cable-stayed bridge, named for the John Batman, a Launceston businessman and the co-founder of Melbourne. We turned around, on the length of the boat! here and were then given a wine and beer tasting - Velo Pinot Grigio, Ninth Island Chardonnay, Velo Pinot Noir plus a Boags beer that neither of us sampled. Lunch was served - a good selection of rolls and focaccia with a variety of filligs, generous slabs of local cheeses and plenty of fruits. Surprisingly the fruit - predominantly tropical was very sweet and refreshing! The trip back to the wharf was quieter with passengers seated and happy to watch the passing birdlife.

We are coming in on a dead low tide, and at one point the two staff members alarmingly send worried looks to each other as there is a sickening grinding sound. The boat stops momentarily and then Lynn does a little jig with the boat and we are off again. Gemma tells us that this very boat was 'put on the mud', 'fast' only a few months ago! Not sure if that was meant to reassure us or not?! 
Finally we dock at the wharf and the boat disgorges us all, with the next cruise load of passengers waiting on the dock.

After a relatively lazy morning, enjoying the sights from the water, we are now headed to Cataract Gorge to see this wonder from the ground. Gen tells me that she had been here last time she visited Launceston and loved it. she had done the Duck Reach Trail and the Reedy and snake Gully Track which circumnavigated the whole gorge, but said that as there were some very steep sections on this walk, it wouldn't be suitable for me to do. We head off to the entrance and the inclinator so that I didn't need to walk down the very steep slope. Nope, not operational. Bugger. Oh well, I tell Gen, the steps have a railing. Off we set. 99 steps later, I am ready for the jelly-like knees to have a bit of a rest. Ah, the cafe is just here!

We start with Scones with Jam and Cream and a coffee to pep ourselves up! We can see the Suspension Bridge and the Chairlift through the picture windows as well as the plentiful children's activity areas - adventure rides, tumble tubes, slides, a small wave pool complete with artificial beach etc. Coffee downed, Gen asked if I was up to walking to the Suspension Bridge. Yep, lets go!

Well, that walk was longer (and steeper) than either of us knew. And Gen had to cross that suspension bridge with a number of other people on it at the same time, so it was swaying. If only you could have seen the poor girl's face! Turns out the total trip around the First Basin Loop was 900m. Add that to the walk down to it, and the tortuous climb back to the carpark, and we did about 1.2km in right on an hour. Mightn't seem much to most, but to me it sure was.

We had booked dinner for 6pm at Alida at Penny Royal, but now it is only 4:30pm. Me knackered, and with all the other activities at Penny Royal closed at 4, we decide not to stay in town and wait, but rather, to cancel the reservation and head back to Rosevears. We decide to detour and have a look at the local town of Grindlewald, that is modelled on the Swiss Village of the same name. As a condition of building in the tract, there were strict caveats put on land purchasers who had to build in the Swiss Chalet architecture style. The original settlement is now a resort, and the 'village' has grown to quite an up-market suburb.

Back at the hotel, we decide to eat in the room tonight (I need an early night). Shared a Chicken Parmi as I'm not too hungry!

Off to take a look at the Pyengana Cheese factory en-route to the Bay of Fires tomorrow. Our time is closing in on us fast!

Bergen - 235 days of rain a year, and boy, did we get one!

Turns out that Bergen has the highest rainfall in all of Scandinavia.  And today proves that well and truly.  But I will have any one day of rain to appreciate the brilliant clear sunshine that follows - especially if that is tomorrow when we get to go to Geiranger and the Trollstingen Pass to Molde where we look down along the length of the fjords.

Today began again with a bit of a scare. Got up to go to the bathroom early and in returning to bed, walked along the mirror that is the length of the room and gave myself a fright when I passed the magnified section for makeup or shaving. OMG I am NOT an early morning person.  Note to self: avert your eyes when passing mirrors! 😂

Breakfast was included at the Best Western Hotell Hordaheimen, the first that has been so on this trip thus far. Breakfast was great - good selection of hot and cold, fruit and cheeses, meats and salads, cereals and yoghurts, eggs of all cooked varieties, bacon and sausages. We ate our fill before returning for our luggage which they held for us for the day. 

Then we set out on foot to go around to Bryggen, 900m around the front of the port and through the local 'farmers' markets. What do you think they farm around here?  Well, that would be fish, oysters, prawns, mussels, crabs; and berries - blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, boysenberries and cherries; and small-goods made from moose and deer and whale. That was the some total of the offerings at the markets, mind you there were many multiples of sellers in each category.  And one lone soft serve ice cream vendor at the very end.  As we (under our umbrellas)  walked past each of the sellers, they would have one of their staff dedicated to touting for business  mostly young girls. And they were very good at it! Marchiella caught our attention showing us the ENORMOUS Norwegian Oysters and the smaller and smoother Fjord oysters. And the trolls guarded the condiments!

Bergen was once the capital of Norway and it was ruled from the old part of the city - Byrggen. Bryggen has existed since just after the Viking Age of 1070 and as it stands now was constructed after the Great Fire of 1702. You cannot help but wonder at how it does burn to the ground far more often.  The last fire was in 1955. We heard sirens and saw a fire truck coming screaming along the road and the crowd collectively took in a breath!  Its ok, its none of the row of historic shop fronts that we duck in and out of to escape the rain.  In fact Donna is sure that it is those wet days that is what is protecting the timber from burning again!  

The front of the shops are wonky and nothing is really straight. While all lined up, they are very picturesque, up close you can see the strain reflected in different ways - a door that does not lineup with its lintel, a set of steps narrow and steep that go up on an angle, whole buildings that tiredly lean against each other as though to prop themselves up. A number of them are empty with historic displays in their windows and a few others are under renovation. The shops that front the quay in these shops are the big name tourist outlets and one or two woolen shops or adventure gear shops. We can only begin to guess what the rents must be like in a city that is very expensive. I did support the local commerce with the purchase of a Norway coastline cross-stitch kit.  Don't ask, it doesn't matter, I like it!


We had read up on Bryggen before we arrived here and know that there are a number of timber floored alleys and arcades and that towards the back of these are local artisans - we found jewellers, woollen goods sellers, artists, leatherworkers, christmas decoration shops etc.  I have been waiting to get here to buy a new cardigan to replace the one I left on the plane, accidently.  We found ourselves in Susan Fosse's shop where I found just the thing. Again don't ask, I'm not telling!!

The boards are damp underfoot and I am terrified of slipping.  After seeing two other people do just that, I am happy to leave these little timbered gems for the cobbled streets outside.  The rain turns quite heavy for a while and we, along with a whole lot of other tourists, take shelter in doorways and under awnings. For a little while we even hanker down into a wall, protected from the worst by our umbrellas.

Finally the rain lets up enough for us to walk back to the taxi rank and get a cab back to the hotel where we stayed last night about 1:30 pm.
We can go down to the terminal - it opened at 13:00, but cannot book our luggage in until 15:30. The hotel is warm and dry, and we can get a glass of wine and some nuts to while away the time. Donna ventures out to see whether we can walk around to the Terminal with our luggage, but reports that it is located in the next port around the headland and up and over a large hill.  Settles that, we will cab it.

The hotel concierge brings our luggage from the luggage room and orders us a taxi, telling us that the fare we should pay is 153 NOK.  Glad he did that because when we got in to the taxi, the driver asked how we would be paying (I always pay card as there is a record and less likelihood of the meter not being turned on) at which point he tells us the fare will be 240 NOK. We disagree, and so he says well 160 NOK, but we stick to our guns and invite him to go and check with the hotel concierge. At this point he becomes rude and sullen but agrees to the fare. I can only think how many tourists he has ripped off.  Will let the hotel know as we took the cab number.

And so finally we find ourselves at the Hurtigruten Ship Terminal.  We only booked this in July, but it feel like a lifetime ago.  Check in is done and we head upstairs to the cafe to wait boarding which is running an hour late. Console ourselves with a hot chocolate and a waffle while we watch the rain come and go. Come 5 pm when the crew open boarding, there is an almighty rush - as though to get the best seats!  Hang on, we all have allocated cabins, so what is the rush.

Finally we are on board. Safety briefing done and dusted. Cabin located - quite spacious even if not a suite with a WINDOW that does not open on to a deck so we can have an uninterrupted view from here.  We decide to wait a little while before heading up for dinner and let the panicked hordes go first. Just as well we did, there was still a line up at 8:30 pm. From here on in, we are allocated seatings, so it should be ok.
Dinner for all and sundry tonight is a buffet. Cold meats and fishes, hot dishes, salads, cheeses and crackers with fruit spreads, and desserts. We skip the hot dishes so we can have a little of the rest.  The reindeer meat with lingonberries was 'interesting'. Beefy, but not, gamey, but not. Something in between the two. will be good to try it hot for a comparison!  


We set sail right on 21:30 and pass out through the port areas, hugging the coast for a little while before we head out in to the open water of the Atlantic Ocean at the lighthouse.  OMG the ship is rocking and rolling  aghhhhhhhhh and the rain is slamming in to the window.  Hopefully it will just rock us to sleep.  Guess that I am about to find out.  Time for bed - nite all.