and on the sixth day, there was fishes in the sea and animals walking the land

Pennicott do a wonderful range of tours including cruises. We took their southern cruise while on Bruny Island so we were very comfortable in booking their Freycinet Cruise to Wineglass Bay. We need to be at their Coles Bay office by 9 am for a cruise that departs at 9:15am, so we set the alarm for 6:30 am. Last night Gen re-packed the large suitcase (again) and so this morning we condense everything as we put things back in the car.

Up at 6:30 for a hot shower - it was cool again overnight, but not as cold as the night before, we quickly made our bit of breakfast and packed the car. We set off from the Pelican Sands Motel about 7:45 am for the hour and a quarter drive, re-tracing our route of yesterday to Bicheno (but thankfully, not the return journey over the passes). We drove through the area where the crash was yesterday but there was no evidence that anything amiss had occured. It always amazes me just how fully a site can be cleaned up, leaving nothing to suggest the earlier drama.

The trip down to Coles Bay was uneventful. So much earlier than most days, we travelled quietly, each in our own thoughts, enjoying the warming sun and beautiful vistas that greet us on every turn. The weather has been so good that we have not used the car air-conditioner much, preferring instead to wind down the car windows for some fresh air - today salt-touched, and at other times, fresh with mountain smells of leatherwood or eucalypt trees and occasionally with the hearty smell of fresh manure as we have travelled through fields of cattle or sheep.

We arrive at the Booking Office just after 9 a and were greeted with "I guess you have a booking in the name of Maria?! You are the only ones with crutches!" We were instructed to wait near the gangway saying that we would be boarding in time for a 9:45 am departure. Turns out, we are waiting for three parties who have not yet checked in - oh, wait, one of them is already here, just hadn't advised the office they were here. Still, the operators wait for the remaining two parties, so we are late leaving by about half an hour, Not a particularly good start! 

Robert is skipper. He has 22 years in business, and there are now 17 vessels in the couple of tours they operate here in the east. Today, the lower deck (Upper Deck was + $115 all for the sake of some oysters!) is being serviced by Noah, Josh and Euan. Nice young men who are all very personable and chatty. Euan provides the safety briefing, ending with "In the unlikely event we need to leave the vessel, jump in to life rafts and continue the tour as planned!" ha ha ha.

As we leave Coles Bay we initially pass by The Hazards, a grouping of three mountains - Graham, Amos and Dove. These pink granite peaks, comprise quartz, feldspar and mica under a dolerite cap. They were previously mined with some blocks finding their way into the Sydney Opera House. This was one lucrative actvity that no longer operates, as was the whaling that was practised commercially until the 1802 in Great Oyster Bay, 

Nowdays, more environmentally friendly tourism and managed seafood harvesting are the main operations. The extensive seagram beds are perfect for calamari and scallops grow as big as golf balls. This area provides 25% of WORLD Abalone catch and crayfish are plentiful - regularly found in areas of rockfalls as well as old wrecks - they love to play hide and seek we are tolf. 

As we motor out of Coles Bay, another tour group is also leaving. In Kayaks that the boat operators refer to as speed bumps! Seriously, they are very respectful and slow down when they come upon any sea-life or other vessels of any size. Its amazing how quickly the engines can be cut and the boat come to a complete standstill. Today'sd boat is the Spirit of the Shouten. She is 23m long and powered by 2 yangmar diesel engines 700 hp each.

On the trip out to Wineglass Bay, we pass numerous points of interest and make frequent  stops. to hear points of history and observe the teeming wildlife of this environment. This includes:

* Old Refuge Island that often shelters boats from the prevailing southerly winds. It is also home to a Fur seal colony. They grow up to 300 kg and can live up to 22 yrs.

This is a RAMSAR area with penguins, tern, shearwaters, comorants, albatross and sea eagles all often see. As are dolphins, seals and whales - the holy trifecta which we were lucky to see today - Bottle-nose dolphins, Austraian and NZ fur seals, and one young humpback whale heading north - very early in the season!

There are lots of rocky outcrops. Promise Rocks is named after the Ship that was wrecked. All souls survived and were rescued after the Captain, the only person who could swim, swam through shark infested waters to raise the alarm.

Other points include Weatherhead point made of Jurassic dolerite - known as the diamond of rocks for its very hard composition. It is home to Australia's smallest lighthouse - the only staff that it could house would be a mouse, so luckily, this is an  automatic lighthouse not requiring manning or re-fuelling.

Lots of Cray pots in the water as we pass by Schouten island and Maria Island and pull up alongside Brian Island - an  Aboriginal learning place where we could easily see shells caught in roots of fallen she-oaks. Skipper Robert asked everyone for 30 seconds silence to pay respect to the Aboriginal peoples of Tasmania and reflect on the significance of their custodianship of these lands. Here on Brian Island there was a very steep gradient on literal dune.

We are shown a WBSEN (White Bellied Sea Eagle Nest) 4.5m deep 3.5m wide. These nests are used for up to 30 years and today, we are lucky to see a female eagle nearby the nest. They are Australia's second largest bird, and one of the world's best visioned birds.

We motor out the Shouten Passage and into the Tasman Sea where the previously very calm waters started to rock and roll in the increased swell. The tide was coming in, but it really isn't bad.

We see plenty 'Shags on a Rock' - the ever-present Black chested cormorant whose guanno (bird poop) stains the rocks white so they gleam in the sun like a beacon. And just like in the Bay of Fires, the red lichen can be see along the length of coastline we re traversing. From here, you look eastward to see nothing but the horizon. From here it is 1,500 km to NZ and 2,500 km to Antarctica 

We pull in close to Twin Caves and I kid you not,  we were no more than 3 m from the rock. The water depth here must be amazing - I guess the cliffs continue under the water. Then we pull into Waterfall Bay where, after rain, up to 30 falls can be seen.

Gen had front bow position for much of this part of the cruise - best place in the house to view Half Lemon Rock then Lemon Rock that once housed a gaslit lighthouse.
We see the remains of a Rockslide that occurred in 1983 and according to Robert provides some of the areas best crayfishing.

We first see Wineglass Bay from a distance as we pull into The Nuggets (rocks) to visit another Australian Fur Seal colony. Most are on the rocks and one is obviously injured - Robert thinks probably from a Great White encounter. As we move up and down beside them, they become more comfortable and a number jump, roll or fall into the sea playing around for us.

We are now well off shore and have perfect phone reception! Go figure! We get patchy coverage on land!!

We pass back through The Hazards into Wineglass Bay for lunch. Perfect white sand. Clear stunning aqua water two people on the beach would have had to have hiked in. This is an old whaling station. Occasionally old rib bones are washed up. Great calamari fishing spot. There were no oo other boats in the Bay when we arrived (this is unusual) but a yatch sails in not long after er arrived.
Wineglass Bay named because after a successfu whale kill the water would look like claret wine, in a glass that the bay resembles.

Lunch done, we power the motors up and head back for Coles Bay. I swear that the rocks and cliffs look like someone took the orange paintbrush and daubed random spots right across the coastline. As wwe turn from the Tasman back into the calm waters of Coles Bay, the sunlight is dancing on the tiny waves looking like flashlights or twinkling diamonds.

Back on land we head south for Hobart, passing wineries that we visited yesterday. Just passed Devil's Corner we see a house built high on Cherry tree Hill with amazing views billabong vineyards mountains bays. I would very happily live here.

We come across some very amusing signs, place names etc on the trip towards Hobart - there was the Wye River, to which someone had added 'Cos it's larger than a stream' on a very official looking sign below! Then there was Break-Me-Neck Hill followed immediately on the next rise by Bust-Me-Gall Hill! Add to these, the various names reminiscent of The Goons around the Bruny area, the links with all things English (humour) is very obvious. And today, just for Mick and Anne, we managed a photo of the road to the 'town' of Nugent - no doubt named for him (in HIS mind!!!) 😂 😂

We had made a dinner booking at the Drunken Admiral. which we had not been able to get a table at when we arrived for our first few days, but by the time we arrive at the Battery Point Manor, neither of us were very hungry and we just wanted out of the car and the chance not to sit down for a while. In the end we decided to cancel our booking and just finish off the salmon, cheese and crackers of various types that we have been carrying for the last couple of days - not problem, they have been on ice for the whole time.

So our last day of sightseeing is tomorrow. Heading home is bittersweet, but definitely does have good points! 

The Providores trip continues

The Rosevears Hotel new units are very comfortable. The first two pods (which we did try to book, unsuccessfully, are two bedroom units. so we have had to make do with a studio unit. By now, we are more than used to sharing a bed. This time, we have really lucked in - we have a King bed! I don't take up much space any more - thanks to my back, I can't roll over, so when I lie in my bed, think Mortitia Addams. I don't cross my hands, they are usually down by my sides to keep warm! But you get the picture. So having a king bed means that Gen gets the same amount of space that she would get in her Queen bed back home.

A couple of times late last night and early once in the morning Gen went out to the balcony (after downloading an app to point out south) to have a look to dee if we could see the Aurora Australis. But no luck.

The units are new with modern fixtures and fittings. This room is an all abilities room, so it has a huge bathroom with a shower seat. A little luxury for many, but oh so good when you have no balance to be able to wash your hair without falling, or shave your legs! It also has the warmest heat lamp I have ever felt - I could sit in there for hours!

The hotel offers breakfast Saturday and Sunday only, but very conveniently also houses the Rosevears Bakery. They not only cater to the hotel guests, but to the local community also, so they have a reasonable range. Our room has a kettle and toaster, so we are able to make a coffee and have a baked goodies for breakfast. Today it is ham and cheese croissants and fruit toast. We are carrying enough cheese and fruit, raspberries and apples, to do us for the next couple of days.

Last night we went through the clothes to send home and this morning Gen collected the other carry bags from the car and we packed 3 bags of clothing wrapped bottles and tubs, ready to be posted home. We weren't sure of the weights, so didn't seal them till we got to the Post Office in Exeter, the closest town above 7 kms away. Surprisingly all 3 were under the 5 kg limit, even though i was sure that at least one of them would be over.

From Exeter, we decided to visit the House of Anvers Chocolate Factory first as this was the furtherest from where we are. It should have taken just under an hour, but thanks to some roadworks being done on the Bass Highway, it took us 20 minutes longer. First of all, we travel those very English-looking valleys that we travelled through yesterday. As we eventually got close to the Factory, we see a recently ploughed field and standing proud as punch over a felled small wallaby or perhaps a pademelon was a beautiful Wedge Tailed Eagle. She was HUGE and her kill was dwarfed by her. Too bad that we were in traffic and I couoldn't get a photo to share with you all. But both Gen and I both have that photo in our brain-bank!

Anyway, we finally get to the chocolate factory. We have been pretty lucky with the crowds and here is no different. Yes, there were people here, but the grounds are quite large and so there was plenty of space for everyone. We start in the museum, reading the history of chocolate and how central Europe came to be chocolate processing leaders. There are two major processing areas that are on view to the public through two large viewing windows. Both Gen and I agree that we would hate to have to do our daily work under the constant scrutiny of strangers. Not able to scratch your head (or elsewhere!), or stretch your back. No thanks. Still its very interesting for us to watch, lol! There are literally hundreds of moulds used for chocolate making, some very old with prussian and early chinese patterns; some bakelite similar to the first ones I ever had, through to the recent hard plastic and the newest silicone moulds. 

The cafe is in what must be the original home on the estate - think 1930s with leadlights and lots of rich timber. We sit and order a hot chocolate - Gen a traditional one and me a vanilla white chocolate one. Then we see they have waffles. Oh yes! Gen has chocolate and I have lemon curd. Both served with cream and ice-cream. Should have all been good, but it wasnt, in the best possible way. These waffles were twice the size of those that you get anywhere else, AND THERE WERE TWO OF THEM. EACH. Needless to say. neither of us could finish. I wish they had told us, we would have shared a single serve!

We are now half an hour from the Ashgrove Cheese Company. I'm dreading getting there, but only because I am so completely full! But get there we did. A family run enterprise, what the Bennett family has done is a real credit to them. Facing limited opportunities with the introduction of the big multi-nationals, they were at a crossroads. Their business model had to change if they were to continue, but obviously very resilient and willing to 'have-a-go' in the Australian vernacular, they have made their gamble pay off. The enterprise now not only controls their milk production, but have diversified to now provide a complete paddock to plate business, manufacturing milk, cream and a great range of cheeses. 

The visitor experience includes a very efficient and large visitor centre that provides fun and practical information on the various productions involved within their business. I can see how it would be very popular with primary schools as the information is well laid out and logical with enough hands on, media presentations and 'through the window' viewing platforms. My favourite was the window into the Nursery, where you can view the wheels of cheese ageing in a climate controlled room.  Of course!

For the princely sum of $12 you can have a tasting plate of five of their standard cheeses plus a dealers choice, which today is a soft cheese with figs - gee, she must think she knows me!! In order of tasting they were Eaglehawk Neck Heavenly Havarti, Cradle Mountain Double Gloucester, Mt Roland Bush Pepper, Walls of Jerusalem wild Wasabi, Bay of Fires Rubicon Red and the Soft Cheese with Fig. I'm telling you that they are all very very  good. The Wasabi-scented cheese was a little too hot for my poor palate, but still tasty (or at least the tiny piece I sampled was). Don't ask me for a favourite - that's like asking a mum to nominate a favoured son or daughter - just ain't goin' to happen!  Gen is finding a new liking for a range of cheeses that she probably wouldn't try at home. Gosh, the lengths I have to go to educate her, lol.

So, photos of eclectic cows taken, and online purchase versus local purchase plus postage considered (on-line won out at the advice of the shop attendant) we leave Ashgrove, very impressed with what we have seen. We have previously purchased Ashgrove Cheese at our local Coles and Woolworths, it is reassuring to know that the quality control espoused on their packaging is implemented in the processing of that cheese. I will definitely continue to happily buy Ashgrove Cheeses well into the future.

Back on to the highway (and those roadworks) for our last destination for the day, we head back to Christmas Hills Road. Across the road from the Raspberry Farm is the Van Dieman's Land Ice Creamery. We had been so full yesterday to consider even trying it, and I am not sure why we thought that today might be any different. But try it we will. Its like not wanting to waste the last morsel of food on a plate!

I'm almost glad that we have left this to the last. What we are presented with is little more than an up-market ice-cream shop. Beautifully presented, but there is no opportunity to see any process of the ice-cream making production other than a snapshot-window behind the ice-cream sellers into the final production room where ice-cream is being pumped into containers. Its a bit of a let-down in a region that goes out of its way to bring in the consumer to the whole process of growth and prouction. Still, the ice-cream is worth writing home about. We both decide that all we can manage is a child's serve in a cup rather than it's grown-up waffle cone counterpart. Gen selects the Pepperberry and Leatherwood Honey Ice-cream and I choose the Salted Lime Gelato. I'm not sure which is better - they are both soooo good! The honey flavour was strong, but not sickly and the Gelato was very palate cleansing. Just what the doctor ordered!

At this point, we look at each other and I am sure that we are thinking the same thing - there is no way we are going to be able to front up for dinner that Gen booked at the Rosevears Hotel tonight. She makes the call as soon as we arrive back at the hotel and cancels our reservation. It must have been about 9, maybe 9:30 pm that we share some raspberries, I have the remaining fig cheese that we brought home from the Ashgrove Cheese tasting with my raspberries in a croissant bought for breakfast and Gen finishes some dip with crackers that we have been carrying in our cold bag for the last 24 hours.

Its be a big day and to say I'm shagged is a total understatement. Off to bed with us. I'll sleep the sleep of the sated (more likely stuffed!) tonight.   

Three men in a boat ... and a King

Ah yes, summer is a-coming. Today is the most beautiful day and we are anticipating 23 °C. We have an early checkout from the hotel this morning (9 am) somewhat dissatisfied with the level of room comfort and the lack of attention to the small details. The staff however have been pleasant.

Initially we planned to go and do Windsor Castle today, but first want to go and see if we can take a closer look at the most amazing building we saw on our way to the movies the other night. We noticed that there was a University of London sign on the gate, so we are assuming that we should at least be able to get into the grounds. The Royal Holloway and New Bedford College as seen from the road is jaw-droppingly gorgeous and interesting. We head back on the same road we took the other night and before long, we spy the edifice through the trees. Turns out that it is modelled on a French Chateau in the Loire Valley (more details in the link above). There is one small gateway and the road goes one way around the exterior of the building ensuring that every time you enter the grounds you get the full benefit of the vista!

From here it is a very short drive to Runnymede and the memorials to the signing of the Magna Carta (that was sealed by King John because he could not read or write!). So we head out into the peak hour traffic but only for a little while as we enter the National Trust area that is the Runnymede site. Our priority is food as we did not have breakfast at the hotel and the Magna Carta cafe is still serving a full English breakfast which was delicious. Gosh the sausages here are so different from the standard issue at home. Once we have filled bellies, we turn to look at the sites on offer. As there is quite a walk to reach the various memorials (and we are still hoping to do the Castle) I opt to wait for Michael to go have a look.

There are two memorials, well one is dedicated to the Magna Carta whilst the other is a dedication John F Kennedy. Albeit, the memorials are most impressive and quite solemn. The memorial to the signing of the first Magna Carta was erected by the American Bar Association in recognising the charter as the first document representing democracy and human rights. The memorial, designed by Edward Maufe, is of a domed classical stye rotunda with a singular pillar of English granite at its centre. On the pillar is enscribed the words: To commemorate Magna Carta, symbol of Freedom Under Law. Oh, and as for the charter being 'signed' on Runnymede Island is utter baloney - as it is not known where in Runnymede the Magna Carta was signed and sealed! As for Runnymede Island, it was man-made in the late 19th century, a church'folly' built and visitors were charged 1 penny to view the alleged revered place.

The Kennedy memorial was erected on one acre of land given to the American people in 1964 after Kennedy's assassination in 1963. In essence, when you enter this memorial you are literally walking on American soil! However, access to this memorial is by a steep set of stairs designed to represent the path taken in the Pilgrim's Progress - minus the multitude of demons and temptations. Upon reaching the summit one is met by a 7 tonne rectangular block of marble inscribed with a dedication and a quote from President Kennedy's inaugural speech which he gave in 1961. To the left of the memorial is a path which is referred to as a 'Jacob's Ladder', as the path is to represent walking towards the future. The path ends with two concrete benches located above and below the direction of the path. These benches have been dedicated as 'Seats of Reflection', as the visitor is provided with a panoramic view of Runnymede and beyond.

We leave the Runnymede site to drive up to the Commonwealth Air Forces Memorial set upon Cooper's Hill. This memorial is located on 5 acres of manicured lawns and gardens commemorating those 20,456 Air Force personnel who lost their lives during WWII and who have no known graves. Their names are inscribed upon the interior walls of the memorial and grouped in each respective year of the conflict and nationality. To mention the solemnity of this shrine is an understatement for it is a poignant statement in sadness and futility. The view provided from the roof of the shrine is stunning, for one can see as far out as London city.

Today was similar to the Bank Holiday last Monday - perfect weather! With just a slight breeze blowing and with ducks and geese a plenty we're set for a leisurely cruise along the Thames. Travelling at a 4 knot speed we bask in the fine weather whilst absorbing all of our surroundings. Our helmsman proudly points out a handsome steam driven vessel which he refers to as the flagship of the companies fleet. Built in 1894 the vessel changed hands and was finally bought by French Bros who had it restored right down to replacing the diesel engine with a steam reciprocating engine. He further advised that the vessel was available for hire a modest sum of £1,500 for the day!

As we sail we are provided with an informative spiel of the history surrounding the area. Our helmsman points out the ruins of St Mary's Priory and a nearby yew tree, referred to as the Ankerwycke Yew. The yew tree he extols, has been suggested by some historians as a more probable spot where the Magna Carter may have signed and sealed! As we pass this spot the banks are lined with a variety of Dutch barges which have been converted by their owners as residences. The owners of these barges tend to the gardens which line the river bank, which appear to be overseered by the occupants of the stately homes beyond the bank! As for stately homes, (it is as though our helmsman had read Maria's mind,) we are provided with an estimation as to the value of some of the homes along the bank. The estimations ranged from £380,000 to £1,000,000 which surprised us as we assumed the property values to be exceedingly more.

We pass by an inflatable dingy occupied by two men, two women, one child and a dog. This is reminiscent of Jerome K Jerome's classic story of 'Three Men In a Boat' together with the dog Montmorency...we have a laugh over this comparison. And along the bank we see English people taking picnics in the park as the children are on a week's mid-term break from school included that quintessential English family man complete with hankie knotted in four corners adorning his head. Well, as Noel Coward once penned - "mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun."

Our cruise does a turnaround just past the picnickers and docks at a mooring to take on passengers and allow others to disembark. We are on our way and no sooner that our cruise has come to an end.

We decide to drive to Avebury to visit the standing circle, however the best laid plans go awry with the volume of traffic and roadworks. Terrible delays on the motorway so we returned to have a very late lunch at the Bells of Ousley pub near the Runnymede site in Old Windsor.

Our lunch over we make our to West Drayton where our lodgings, the Oakwood Lodge is located. We finally arrive, after a interlude to put our car through a much needed car wash and a detour in locating the parking area.

Round the Ring to Cork

Hurrah - we wake to find that the rain has stopped!! It was not the most comfortable of nights for either of us and I am thinking that single beds do not aid people who have been sleeping together for 28 years at all. But breakfast was great. We started with OJ and muesli (Alpen brand - hope we can get it at home - it is delicious) followed by scrambled eggs for Michael and poached for me. Not too heavy and both cooked very nicely.

We are on the road just after 9:30 am heading in clear weather towards rather ominous looking clouds. I now know why it is so green in Emerald. For 10 minutes every hour it rains, and then the sun comes out, so the grass and shrubs and bushes and trees are constantly being fed and growing! We stop to do the daily top up with fuel as you can never be certain of where you can find fuel on the road. Today we pay €1.12 per litre and before you start to make comment, this actually translates to $2.04 per litre back home. So you can quit your whinging right about now!

And today I re-introduce the Oh Wow days. As we travel south from Tralee into the Ring of Kerry via Killorglin where we see the proud statue of King Puck at the entrance to town. Like many small towns in the tourist areas, they can be very congested and today is certainly no exception to that. In response, Killorglin it seems wants a bypass so the banners around town compete with the political billboards! Although it would be hard to beat one of the campaign banners of a local candidate - trouble is, can you take him seriously???

The Catholic Cathedral at Cahersiveen is currently undergoing a full restoration at an estimated cost of €5 million with only €1 million raised to date. Seems an awful lot to be spending on such a project - although we did not stop to have a look.

Valentia Island is right at the south west of Ireland - part of the Iveragh Peninsula and bordered on the west by Dingle Bay. It is reached by ferry from the coastal collection of buildings (that could never be called a village or even hamlet) of Reenard Point to the port of Knightstown on the island.

The trip over on the ferry is short - just 300 m across the bay, then a turn through the harbour breakwalls before docking. The information on the net says that the ferry operates every 15 minutes, but we watched as it just went across and back continuously, carrying people who live on the island as well as tourists. It was interesting - we arrived at the depature point first in a line of cars and I pulled up a little way back to allow for traffic to come off. Another car arrived after about 5 others and just drove passed us all right to the edge of the ramp - obviously a local. He then proceeded to drive on to the ferry almost before the last car was off! Obviously a local!! Our trip took only 4 or 5 minutes - hardly enough time to pay the charge! The ticket seller gave us a free map of the island thankfully. We could see there was a small network of roads from our map, but this one also gave us what there was to see - something we did not have.

And OH WOW This is some of the most stunning scenery we have seen anywhere on our travels to date. It is everything that you think of Ireland and then some - with the seaside thrown in! And it has quite a history from prehistoric animals to the first Atlantic telegraph line crossing to Irelands largest slate mine complete with a Marian grotto.

Then there is the Tetrapod Trail - fossilised tracks from the first known vertebrate to walk on land - 385 million yeas ago. Before this all known vertebrates were fish. They walked, dragging their tails behind them, across the muddy flat that over time was compressed to become shale and millions of years later eroded to expose the trail again. These were only discovered in 1992. It makes any of the history we have seen to date kind of seem a bit lame for a moment or two!

And then there was the Altazamuth standing stone that we came upon quite by chance - although it graces the front of the free fold-out map, it is not very clearly marked. The island continues to offer up small and not-so-small surprises. We spent a couple of hours wandering across the island with me constantly oh wowing, OMG, oh wow, OMG, oh wow! Can you hear it?!!!

We had debated whether we would just skip past Valentia and continue across the mainland coast road. But every time we just go with a spur-of-the-moment decision we have been thrilled with what we find. Eventually, we had to push on. Instead of retracing our steps and re-crossing on the ferry we drove down to the opposite end of Valentia Island (sounds like it should be in Italy don't you think) and crossed the bridge to Portmagee. By this time we are starting to think that we will not make it to Killarney and have to head straight for Cork.

Back on the mainland, we continue to follow the coast on the N70, getting more and more glimpses of the outstanding beauty of the Inveragh Peninsula and the Skellig Islands - those sharp conical rocks thrust proudly out of the boiling sea. We drive a few kms, stop, take more photos, drive a few more kms, stop, etc etc etc. But we are not alone - we play hopscotch time and time again with half a dozen other cars doing exactly the same.

By the time we get to Waterville further around Ballinskelligs Bay at 1:30 pm, we desperately need a toilet stop and some food. This little seaside town is base for a lot of walkers, holiday makers and was a popular choice for holidays by Chalie Chaplin. We find a parking stop right outside the Lobster Bar and Restaurant. Walking in, there are plenty of diners and most of them tucking heartily into fish and chips. So when in Rome ... I ordered the Fish and Chips. Michael opted for the Prawn, Crab and fish cakes and spends most of the time searching for the fish - they are chockers with prawn and fresh crab meat. And my cod -the batter was so light and crisp and the fish so fresh that it tasted of sea water and hardly even had a fish taste!!! It was sublimly good, as was the service fromt he friendly waitress and the coffee we finished with. A quick stop to get a pic with Charlie and a final decision to give Killarney a miss and head straight to Cork.

We re-connect with the main highway at the town of Kenmare where there is supposedly a stone circle. But we do not see it as we drive through - so I guess it is just out of town in the other diredction. Bu a little further on we do see a sign pointing to the The Staigue Stone Hillfort 4kms off the road near Castlecove. And can't resist a quick look! This is all that remains of what would have been an enclosed settlement of a local chieftan built in the early centuries AD before christianity arrived in Ireland. It is the largest hillfort in Ireland and built without mortar, is a testament to the skills of the earliest settlers. Look had, we get back onto the road and given that it is now 4 pm, vow not to stop again, puching on passed great views and through quaint little towns!

And so that brings us to tonight in Cork where we are writing the blog from the Maryborough Hotel and Spa! Yep, you read right! A link with home - but in name only. This is luxurious and oppulent but in a quiet understated kind of way. Set on a hill above Cork and in the most amazing gardens. They have given us a Spa suite - complete with bath IN the room (shower and toilet in the ensuite), leather sofa, table and chairs AND with 20 LED lights set into the feature wall, overlooking a grassed roof between us and the gym! So there is really very little to compare with here and home!!! (Hmm although I must admit, the lights in the wall here are the same ones we have in our 'runway' ceiling to the bathroom! Had forgotten that until now!)

As we had had a latish lunch are are not really hungry, tonight we decide to just eat from the Light Bites menu in the bar. Our waitress (Kristina from Slovakia) settles us in to armchairs overlooking the beautiful gardens with mature trees and flowering azaleas and rhododendrons and busy little black birds pigging out on fat worms they pull from the lawn. Then supervisor Siva brings along a Specials Menu for us to have a look at. He hails from Penang in Malaysia and if there ever was someone suited to his career, he is it. He personally introduces himself to everyone who comes in, and then, remembering eveyone's name, he addresses them personally every time he speaks with them. The perfect employee in hospitality - you feel valued from the word go - good on you Siva - you are a shining light!

Oh, and that menu - hmm. SO much for a toasted sandwich! We choose:
Mains:
Breast of Chicken wrapped in Parma Ham (Michael)
Loin of Pork with sage stuffing and a mustard dressing (Maria)
Both are served with Potato Au Gratin, creamed pumpkin and fresh sugar snap peas
Dessert: Michael only !
Assiette of tropical flavours - pineapple mousse, passionfruit cheescake and caramelised bananas in a crisp case - I had a taste of each and it was delicious. I finished with a Cointreau over ice while Michael had a coffee.

Ah yes, Maryborough - now that is something to remember!! Ha ha ha!!!

Connemara and couchsurfing!

As we did not get to bed until nearly 3 am this morning, we slept until just before 10 am. Then we put the finishing touches and some photos on before we uploaded the blog for yesterday. Breakfast followed - we are trying to finish the eggs so it was cereal for Michael followed by eggs on toast (with the last 2 mushrooms for me) and plenty of OJ.

Today is bleak and windy with not a sign of the sun. We are so pleased that we did the Cliffs bit yesterday as it would have been a disappointment if we were there today. And even though the sun is only setting now as I type this at 9:26 pm, there is no sign of it - just more and deeper grey.

We wanted to make up some of the lost time to both the weather and the flu, so today headed north west along the N59 towards Connemara. While we knew that this was an area of natural beauty, we didn't quite expect to find what we did. Loughs (lochs, lakes), mountains both lofty and flat, bogs, rivers, wildlife and couchsurfers - but more on that later.

It was 2 pm before we cleared Galway and so we agreed that we would drive no further than 2 hours would take us so we would not be too late tonight. Once we were out of the city limits the speed limit is raised to 100 kph. Who are they kidding? There is no way you can safely drive at that speed. If it is not for the windy roads or the narrow roads then it is because of the terrible condition. While it was not quite as bad as Gort, there is still much improvement needed. To be honest though, we didn't mind once we had travelled as far as Lough Corrib just 28 ks from Galway, the poor condition of the roads was the perfect excuse for travelling a little slower and letting the incredible scenery weave its magic!

This is not the verdant landscape that you will normally associate with the Emerald Isle. Rather it is the high slopes - more barren and rocky, but still coated with a layer of green albeit more a grass green than emerald. But it is STUNNING. To the east are the Maumturks Mountains - not so high and flatter but rising sufficiently to give the most incredible views further west where everywhere you look there are rolling hills with backdrops of tumbling peaks battling to be at the front. This is the area known as Twelve Pins (or Twelve Bens). And Lough Boffin with its small wooded islets is just a picture. Once we reached Maam Cross we headed north and then east again on a smaller road that was (at first!) in better condition than the main road through the area. That soon changed tho!

The views of the mountains changed for a while and we were travelling across the top with the goats and sheep and a lone peat cutter who had drawn the interest of other travellers as well. He explained that the peat once cut, is covered and left to dry out - a process that only takes 3 months. Evidently out of its natural setting it loses moisture very quickly. Not sure what he was selling a bag of peat for, but there was a veritable fortune to be had with the sheer volume of raw product. And like in Scotland, when the road crosses peat bogs, it rises and falls like waves on water!

We meandered across the high country and the small hamlets that brave the isolation (ha ha) quite understanding how people can chose to live in this area. It is actually not all that isolated at all - it is after all less than 20 kms from villages that would supply all the necessities, but high on those slopes it is like you are a thousand miles from cares. Alone with the gorse that here is in full bloom now and rhubarb? BIG rhubarb?? Yep, it is wild rhubarb and at the service station we are told it is a pest weed and growing out of control. Well, rhubarb! What next??!

Eventually, after stopping for hundreds of photos (yep, you know what we are like) we reach Leenaun on Killary Harbour - Ireland's only fjord. We see cruises advertised up the Fjord and so travel a few kms to find that we have missed the 2:30 pm sailing but there is another at 4:30 pm with the ticket office re-opening at 4 pm. As it is now just after 3 pm, we decided it is time for a cuppa so drive back to Leenaun and The Blackberry Cafe and Restaurant. Hot cuppas and a shared Pear and Almond Flan - served warm with strawberry coulis and fresh thick cream - yu-um. It was truly delicious! Just on 4 o'clock we head back to the boat slipway and see the catamaran has arrived. The wind is really picking up so it is beanies and scarves out. BUT, despite the sign on the road, despite the advice on the door that the ticket office will re-open at 4, we are told with no apologies or embarrassment that they are not doing a 4pm cruise at this time of the year. THAT was a disappointment. Still, it means that we can now happily head for home as the weather is closing in more and more.

Rather than just turn around and retrace our steps totally, we push on for Clifden before we head east back toward Galway. We are back on the N59 which does a huge loop. En route to Clifden we pass Kylemore Abbey founded in the 1920s. This was founded for Benedictine Nuns who fled Belgium in WWII. The abbey houses the Kylemore Abbey International Girls' School and the house and gardens are open to the public. Evidently, the nuns have decided to close the school in 2010, although they do not plan to sell the property and will continue to reside there. Well, I know I would too!

So we reach Clifden after an eternity driving behind a French visitor who is obviously very nervous about driving on the left hand side of the road. He brakes at every corner, and every time a car passes from the other direction and I can smell his fear as huge lorries go rushing past! But we eventually reach Clifden and head for home. As we turn, the first thing we see is a couple of hitch-hikers holding a sign asking Galway? Normally the car is laden with one suitcase on the back seat, back pack etc etc etc. But as we are in the one place for the week, the case comes out and so, we just might have room for them. They are cold and miserable and have been trying to get a ride since 1 pm and are ever so grateful. We squeeze them in with their large backpack, sleeping bags, smaller bags and highly decorated guitar. They have been camping for the last three days in Connemara National Park - are they nuts - the nights out here are still truly COLD! Oh, hang on - they are young!!! ;-) Turns out Tom is from Calais, France and speaks very little English. Dom, from Quebec, is multilingual and chats away with us, all the time translating for Tom and making sure he is included - that was nice to see. Like us they are travelling for an extended period and are avid couchsurfers. They seem a little surprised that we too are registered on couchsurfing.com.

We had no sooner got back on the road when the traffic is halted at roadworks by a vehicle parked across the road. A man comes along telling us all that as part of the roadworks they are blasting but there should only be a delay of about 5 minutes. Then we hear 3 long whistles and then the dull roar of the blast that seems so out of character in a place so beautiful and otherwise peaceful. Sure enough, 5 minutes later and we are back on our way. The trip back in to Galway was non-stop, the rain trying hard to fall. And the conversation was back and forward with Dom and through her to Tom sharing our various travel experiences. We let them off in the centre of Galway City where they are returning to the home of two french people living in Galway before heading to Dublin tomorrow.

We are in the centre of Galway and are looking to eat out tonight. Not sure what we want, we walk up and down Quay Street filled with restaurants and pubs, checking out the menus as we go. We finally opt for asian and go in to the Tamarind restaurant. More Thai than anything else and with either an early bird limited menu or full a la carte we decide that the early bird has enough choice. Our choices were:
Entrees:
Martabak of Lamb (Minced lamb wrapped in wonton pastry with galangal and soy flavoured onion compote) Michael
Sweetcorn soup with crisp wontons (tastes of corn, coconut, chilli and lemongrass) Maria
Mains:
Nasi Goreng (Fried rice dish with prawn and chicken served with a fried egg and chicken sate) Michael
Cashew Nut Chicken (Stir fried in Thai spicy sauce and served with steamed rice and asian greens) Maria
Michael's entree was the star of the meal - a very interesting combination that was really delicious as was the balance of the meal.

So tonight we are now doing one last load of washing and packing to load the car in the morning. We are headed via Adare and Killarney and the Ring of Kerry to Tralee tomorrow where we hope to catch up with Allyson and Leith's niece. See you all next from the south!

History - liquid and otherwise.

We arise to a beautiful morning. Breakfast in the restaurant is served with a view of the bay, the village and the Paps on the adjacent island of Jura. I have the scrambled egg with smoked salmon - it is so light and delectable. Michael too is opting for lighter choices - poached eggs, mushrooms and tomatoes. It is lovely having a cooked breakfast but after a while a heavy breakfast is the last thing you want.

Off this morning to find a standing stone on the north west side of the island. You might think that we would get sick of seeing them, but really, nothing is further from the truth. And this one is a little special. It stands 16 feet high. We follow the directions from Neil's notes and our map, but end up at the northern most point of Islay, having gone too far. Retracing our steps we stop a farmer on his quad bike and ask him. Get to where he said and still can't find it. Ask another farmer at this location and he gets us much closer. It is up hill and down dale and over two fences so I wait in the car for Michael to see if he can get to it. And he does.

The livestock and wildlife are amazing - from the woolly longhorn cattle to the wild flocks of thousands of geese. And should any of them get a little lonesome for conversation, we find a telephone box out where only they could use it! ET would not have been earthbound for so long out here!!

We had seen the ruins of a church with a graveyard around it on the way out, so track back to have a look. The church roof is in the process of serious collapse and the Council have bricked up the remains so that no-one can get it and get hurt. But the graveyard surrounding the church is easily accessible. We are still in awe of the history which greets us; and this church is of no exception. Built over the remains of a 13th century chapel, the remaining occupants provide a chronology of the area. There is evidence of obscure capping stones, however, the earliest grave we find dates from 1760.

Further along from this cemetery is a Commonwealth War Grave cemetery, situated on the bluff overlooking the accompanying bay. This grave site commemorates officers and crew of the HMS Otranto torpetoed of the Islay coast on 6th October 1918. Most of the epitaphs relate to those seamen who could not be identified.

And then we head for the mid east coast of the island (the locals think we are mad doing all this driving - like the island when measured like a big X is 37 miles by 31 miles!!). We are going to the Ardbeg Distillery and lunch at their famous Kiln Cafe with Helen and Elaine. We all pull up in the car park at the same time. Helen is especially happy as they have just come from Laphroaig and Luguvalin distilleries where she sampled at both (Elaine is driving). We all need to put something slid in our stomachs before we can sample more and so we head straight for the cafe.

A surprisingly good choice is available on the menu and specials board and we all choose something different. Michael has the Beef Curry special, I have Cheese and Onion Quiche, Helen has a baked potato with tuna and corn and Elaine chooses a Herby (herbed bread roll) with ham and melted cheese. To follow and have with our 10 year old whisky samples we have Cloutie Dumplings. These are pieces of cloth boiled fruitcake soaked in whisky and served with ice cream - suet and all. Not quite Christmas Cake, but very close to it. So after making purchases we head off - us to another distllery and the girls to take a walk.

The Laphroaig Distillery is a mere 5 minutes drive away and set in the most beautiful bay setting. We arrive at about 3:25 pm just in time for the 3:30 pm tour being taken by young Ashleigh (who is about to finish at the distillery, take her final uni exams and head to the US to work for 6 months before coming home to find a 'real' job - her words!). There were a total of 2 people on that tour - yep, private viewing!! It is a real privlege to so it this way as you get the chance to chat with staff a little more and they are all so friendly and ready to proudly talk about their role in perfecting the liquid gold.

Upon completing our sojourn at Laphroaig, we continue our trek towards the south towards the Mull of Oa (pronunced Oh). In the distance can be seen the American Memorial to those seamen lost off the coast of Oa. However from the visitor's car park the memorial is still some distance away. The information board dictates our journey can only proceed by foot, a two mile journey - each way. Mind you, this would normally pose no barrier to Michael, but with the lateness in the afternoon and not sure how long we will have good light, we decide to offer our silent contemplation from a distance and push on to the peninsula which is Oa.

As we proceed along the somewhat deteriorated and narrow 'track', we happen to pass our companions of the past couple of days - Helen and Elaine. With waves in greeting, and laughter as to our unexpected happen chance, Helen advises the views are worth the journey. No sooner had we arrived at the peninsula, our efforts are rewarded indeed. The wind is blowing in a freezing gale, whereby Maria decides to remain in the car and Michael dons jacket, beanie and camera and braves the elements. However, the view is breathtaking; with the haze being dispersed by the gale the ocean is a gossamer of sparkling jewels with the coastline a sharp silhouette.

Having immersed ourselves in natures curtain call, we proceed towards the lighthouse referred to as the the Irish Memorial. The lighthouse was built in 1834, upon a rocky crag, to the Irishmen who had lost their lives in one of the many storms which have pounded the Hebredian coast over the millennia. The crashing waves are a signal for us to depart for our return to Bowmore.

As beautiful as the days have been, that lovely red sunset had eluded us until today. Tonight the weather conditions are just right and Michael manages to take quite a few shots of the setting sun. Other days it has been a lighter affair without the stunning contrasts in colour, but never mind, we got it before we needed to leave the island!

Dinner - as we had had a good lunch we actually debated not bothering with dinner. We certainly didn't want (or need) the full restaurant deal tonight. In the end we decided to go to the attached Seafood, Malt and Wine Bar and have something a little lighter (by the same kitchen though). And wow - are we so glad we did!
Mussels done in cream with onion and chorizo (Michael)
Squat Lobsters just flashed in the pan in butter and garlic with crab claws on the side (Maria)

This meal is the tops - one of the very best we have had on our travels!