Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen

Yay, sunshine with just a few cotton wool clouds greeted us this morning.
Outside the IceBar (located in the same building as the Hostel), we catch the Hop On Hop Off bus again.  As we move through the stops, we wonder at the laid back attitudes of the staff - anyone would think that they are Aussies, and yet none we have encountered are!

We are headed into the Christianshavn area on a series of artificial islands within the harbour.  First founded in the 17th Century when King Christian IV extended the fortifications of the City, and at the time was an upper society residential area.  Description
Inderhavnsbroen - an opening bridge across the inner harbour.

In the 1970s a commune society set up in an area of the Christianshavn area that became known as Freetown in abandoned military buildings.  Later, many of these residents self-built their own homes, paying no regard to rules or regulations.  Following many attempts to make the residents conform to the laws of Denmark, finally in 2017 the 1,000 or so residents made their first payment to the state and so began the process of the area coming under the Copenhagen Council rule and home ownership status as opposed to squatter status.

But the area we have come to see is the magnificent Church of Our Saviour with its amazing helix spire that comprises 400 steps to the top.  Needless to say, we did not climb it!  This Church is definitely one of the more ornate and adorned churches we have seen here in Denmark.  The organ pipes dated 1698 and set in elaborate carved timber work borne on the backs of two plaster elephants. While the altar is stunning, and the carved pew heads amazing in their work - appreciated all the more because of my opportunity to watch the carving process of the Peace Pole being developed for the Rotary Club of Maryborough-Sunrise back home, it is the baptismal font that is the pick of the ornate statuary.  It is balanced at the other end by the austerity of the poor chests in the foyer.  The locks on these, as with the many other examples we have seen would seriously challenge any pick-pocket - old or recent!


From here, we walked back onto the City proper across 

Description

Inderhavnsbroen - the opening bridge that crosses the inner harbour, passing by the Børsen, the 17th-century Copenhagen  stock exchange, complete with its twisted spire of crocodiles or dragons - no-one really knows the inspiration.  The commentary on the bus yesterday wondered at how many crocodiles the locals of the 17th century would have seen.  We wonder how many dragons

they might have been witness to!!

We are looking for the Hop On Hop Off boat, only to discover that the ticket we have been given does not cover the boat - even though we specifically asked for it. Too bad.  So we decide to head for the Citadel and the Little Mermaid rather that waste any more time.

We alight the bus for the citadel in front of an amazing fountain, and the only Anglican Church in Denmark - much later, being constructed in the 1870s.  The fountain is the subject of a plethora of tour visitors making it very hard to get a good photo.  One of the standout features of Copenhagen as a city are the number of statues that are to be found at every turn.  This area is no different with artistic and commemorative statues almost every time you turn your head.  The Gefion Fountain features large-scale oxen being driven by the legendary Norse goddess, Gefjun. It is located in Langelinie Park next to Kastellet and is the largest monument in Copenhagen and used as a wishing well.  According to an ancient legend, Gefion was the goddess who ploughed the island of Zealand out of Sweden. The Swedish king Gylfe offered the goddess Gefion as much land as she was capable of ploughing within one day and one night.

Looking across the moat to the citadel, you can clearly trace the outline of the five pointed star.  Michael and I first saw an example of this type of fort in Blaye in south-western France.  Today, they are mowing the grass sides - with a domestic mower attached by a rope to a tractor riding along the top of the mound.  It looks so comical, and yet is so practical.

 The Citadel, or 

Description

Kastellet, is one of the best preserved fortresses in northern Europe, and like much of the existing city, dates back to the early 17th century.  This is still a working facility with mess houses and the normal workings of a military establishment.  It should have been easy to walk through the fort through to visit the Little Mermaid on the other side, but the City, among all the other places, is

undertaking works here - this time to protect the fort from flooding!  So back outside we trudge to wait for the next bus to take us around closer to this iconic symbol of Copenhagen.

The Little Mermaid sits on her rock pensively looking at you, pining for the loves she never.  Not often spoken of alternative mermaid - the Genetically Modified Mermaid - is found off a new Square at Langelinie.  She represents a tortured soul, albeit with feet,but still without a love.

The day is getting blustery now and darker clouds are moving in.  We decided to ride the bus around to Nyhavn and have some early dinner before returning to the Hostel.

In the dying light of the afternoon, this colourful canal community is stunning.  A 17th-century waterfront, canal and entertainment district, it is lined by brightly coloured 17th and early 18th century townhouses and bars, cafes and restaurants.  Hans Christian Anderson lived in this district at the time that he wrote most of his fairy tales.

Not having had any lunch, we stopped at No.19 Nyhavn at the Skagen Restaurant where we feasted on seafood tapas (Donna) and Fish Soup (Maria) followed by Surf and Turf (Donna) and Rib Fillet (Maria).  It is raining as we eat and the wind has really come up, so we take advantage of the blankets the restaurant offers.

From here it is a 5 block walk back to the normality of the hostel.

Tomorrow we begin our journey for home, flying first to Amsterdam from Copenhagen.  It would have been nice to go by train, but it is an overnight trip and the train gets in a little to close to our departure for our Sydney bound flight.

One more night - this time back in Amsterdam.

When the rain is opportune

The Generator Hostel is certainly not some of the more luxurious hotels we have stayed in,but it does have two special redeeming factors - it has a laundry and it is very central to most of the site we want to see in Copenhagen.


When we were travelling here, we had checked the weather forecast which advised three days of rain / showers.  But we have been very lucky, bringing sunshine everywhere we have travelled thus far 🌞🌞🌞 so much so, that people have commented on the unseasonality of the sunshine - trust the Aussies! 

After a lighter breakfast that we have gotten used to, we got ready and headed out - sans umbrellas into a beautiful autumn day.  Then we stepped outdoors and were greeted by the breeze!
Still, it was sunny and we were out for a stroll.

The streets of Copenhagen house an amazing array of beautiful buildings - residential and commercial.

First we made tracks for Rosenborg Castle, a royal hermitage set in the King’s Garden in the heart of Copenhagen and about four blocks from here.  The Castle features 400 years of splendor, royal art treasures and the Crown Jewels and Royal Regalia.  It was built by one of the most famous Scandinavian kings, Christian IV, and completed in the early 1600s.  


I got excited as the steps to the next floor are quite navigable, until you get to the first landing are are greeted by the dreaded spiral staircase which continues up the next two floors, so Donna gets the photos of the balance of the building.

The main attractions include the Knights’ Hall with the coronation thrones and three life-size silver lions standing  
guard. Tapestries on the walls commemorate battles between Denmark and Sweden.  The Castle was abandoned as a residence in the 1700s and became a place where the precious and the priceless relics of following monarchs were stored.  It opened to the public as a museum in 1838.  Today, it is presented as a timeline of Danish and Scandinavian history from the early 17th century to the present day.  

The attached Treasury holds the greatest riches including the crowns, tiaras and Crown Jewels. They are truly a sight to behold and were only ruined by some pompous American 'guide' imposing his political views not only on the couple he was guiding, but on everyone else within the two chambers that his rasping voice carried across.  After 'bumping' him so we could take photos, he takes his leave, promising his guidees that he would see them tomorrow - bet they are hoping he doesn't!

The Kings Garden that the Castle is set within is a picture of manicured lawns, partierre gardens, espaliered trees, avenues of mature trees and lots of statuary.  There are lots of people enjoying the early autumn sunny weather.

Their are soldiers on guard duty at various points around the Castle and Treasury.  And in a Parade Ground next door, there are two groups of soldiers being put through their paces with the orders(in Danish) barked out loudly enough for anyone watching from the Castle grounds to hear.  Good set of lungs that man had!

From here we head towards the centre of the City and Trinitatis Church, where there are a number of people sheltering from the weather that has now started to turn.  Inside their is an orchestra and choir practising, but we are unable to take photos.  It is sprinkling, but we are not really missing our umbrellas.

At the end of this building is the Round Tower, which we had considered going up to get a birds-eye view of the City.  It is a spiral walkway going up six floors.  No stairs, just a constantly graded brick floorway.  It is when we see people coming back down, almost on their tiptoes trying to stop hurtling forward, that we decide against it.  Too bad, rooftops are always very interesting.

From here we meander through the pedestrianised inner city.  The closure of streets to traffic commenced in 1962, meaning the Copenhagen has favoured pedestrians and bicycles for a long time now. 
We had read about, and Siobán had told us about Strøget, one of the main pedestrian malls with an amazing tiled pattern running across one of the squares.  While it is impressive at any time, anyone who has seen it will tell you that it is at ist most impressive when wet - and so, the gentle rain that we have half dodges for the last half hour or so has become . . . very opportune!

Strøget is one of Europe's longest pedestrian streets with a wealth of shops, from budget-friendly chains to some of the world's most expensive brands. The stretch is 1.1 kms long and runs from City Hall Square (Rådhuspladsen) to Kongens Nytorv.  While looking around the amazing architecture here, and photographing one of the stunning buildings, I realise that I am standing in front of none other than the Royal Copenhagen display and outlet centre.  Joy of joys!  After a thorough visit, I even selected a keepsake and had it freighted home - you'll have to come and visit to find out what it is!


We manage a quick glimpse inside the Helligaands Church before all the visitors are ushered out as the church is being closed for the day.  Again, quite austere, although there is a touching memorial to the unknown concentration camp victims in its grounds.


The Lego store isn't too far away, and so this is where we head next, in increasing showers.  Bit disappointed when we get there as this really is nothing more than what the name suggests - a Lego sales store.  Nothing that we can't buy in Australia, or online, so we leave here empty handed but for a photo.


By now the rain has set in and we dodge in and out of doors and dash across squares and the evening peak hour traffic.  We take refuge in the largest department store in Copenhagen - Magasin - and sit for a few minutes at the Coffee and Juice Shop - Joe and the Juice - with a cold drink before heading back to our accommodation.

Another big day of walking with more to come in the next few days.
Copenhagen, it appears, has much to see, find and do, so we are glad that we have a full three days to explore at least some of it.  Perhaps the Little Mermaid and the Fort tomorrow, weather dependent, or if not, perhaps the Guinness World Record Museum!

We have a new friend - barmaid Howrie!

Writing the blog sober can sometimes be a little of a chore.
Writing the blog while pissed as a fart is  . . .  a challenge.
So I didn't try to write the blog last night - hence me writing this morning!


The day started out well enough - with breakfast as we planned a day sightseeing in Göteborg.  Now Göteborg is a very walkable city.  It is predominantly flat and right on the coast with a significant harbour, with a few canals leading from the harbour in to the City.


The Scandic Crown Hotel is inner city - just beyond the Central Rail Station. The concierge at the desk here provides some advice on getting right in to the historic areas.  Walk around the station and through Nordstan, a 'Westfield style' shopping mall right in the centre of the CBD.  would you believe that in the month that we have been in Europe, this is the first shopping centre that we have been in.  And you will all be proud of us - despite all the 'Sale' signs in windows, we bought nothing!  To get to the historic areas of the City, we need to get beyond Nordstan, and the fastest way to do it is through it.

On the other side, we come out in an area of narrow cobbled streets radiating in a grid pattern out from the significant Gustaf Adolf’s Square facing the Rådhuset (Town Hall) with a canal running along one side - complete with picture pretty bridges lined with flower pots.

Our first building visit is in to The German Church which its also called Christinae Church. Named after Queen Christina, it was inaugurated in 1748, and used by he German and Dutch congregation in Gothenburg. While there are some ornate decorations, in the chandeliers and the windows, predominantly it is simple and basic and filled with light.


Crossing the canal brings us into closer quarters, with narrower streets, many of them pedestrianised so we don't need to be watching for vehicles quite so diligently.  It gives us a chance to look at doorways and rooflines and into the minutae of daily life here in Göteborg.


We are now close to the main canal and the city park and notice the spire for the Domkyrkan - the Cathedral.  We had a little difficulty getting in initially, turns out they are preparing for a radio broadcast on today, Sunday 8 September.  The original church on this site was consecrated in 1633 and following two fires, this final Cathedral was built in 1815. It is plainer than many we have seen.

We are headed to the Saluhallen, the Market Hall in Göteborg. This is the largest indoor market, and significantly nicer that the two outdoor markets we have seen thus far today.  When you enter in through the double doors,your senses are assailed in the very best of ways.  There are foods of all descriptions - smallgoods, cheeses, fruit and vegetables, sweets and nuts, meats, home-made pastas, cooked meals.  Only one fishmonger - and really they only had prawns and salmons plus sauces and salads.  Turns out that the City of Göteborg has its own fish markets down near the harbour.


Back into the sunshine - it is warm and lovely until the sun disappears behind a cloud and the wind picks up!  Across the next canal towards Kungsparken (Kings Park) we see further evidence of the regal presence in the city of the past.
At this point, Donna tells me we are not too far from the Haga district, the oldest quarter.  "How far is not far?"  "Only about 1.5 kms"  "Too far", was my response! Time to put the tram tickets we have bought to use.  Soon to the tram we go to visit the Haga district.  The first thing that we tend to notice are the rooflines - and that includes the spires and towers of the various churches.  There is no reason that the Haga should be any different!
At first we cannot get in to the Church as there is a service in progress.  Turns out the service is a wedding.  

I join the locals taking the sun, sitting in the beautiful little park adjacent to the church while Donna takes a walk down to see how close she can get to the Fish Markets we could see from the tram stop.  Like many other cities, there are significant road works being undertaken here and this means long detours around said works!
She comes back via some of the traditional half timbered houses that exist only in the Haga district now.  And like the main city area, some of the cobbled streets have been closed to traffic to allow safe access by pedestrians and bikes and cycles.

The bells were ringing (for me and my girl) as the newly wedded couple leave the church.  We come up to the doors as one of the church officials comes to the door, telling us we can only have five minutes as they are closing the church.  Quite a number of people follow us in! Church done, we head off to find one of the best examples of restored buildings in this area. We find a couple, unsure of which is the exact building in a row that all demonstrate some special features.

Our day is done.  My feet are done.
So it is back to the tram and back to the Scandic Crown.
After walking just over 5km (tram rides extra) we deserve a drink.

Howrie, bar tender of the day, helps us to make sure that we celebrate appropriately!
A few drinks later, we ask for Cointreau on ice.  She has never served Cointreau before and has to search the register to find the button!!
Its about now that she delivers a smallgoods tray to us.  Not sure if it was in recognition of our patronage or to ensure we eat something as we drink!  Who cares, was delicious.
She tells us that Göteborg can get as low as minus 20 degrees in winter and that in a heavy snow, the whole public transport network closes down.
She also tells us that limes are the most expensive fruit - even more so than mangoes,and that she would give anything to have a lime tree in her yard.  Turns out they sell at about 3 for 70 SEK.  That makes them about $3 each!

An early night follows - we needed it!

Finally a clock that tells the true time

Post for 1 September

After a late night we had arranged with Riikka to meet us for breakfast at 9 am at the Albert Hotel.  In the end, we sent her a message this morning and put everything back 30 minutes.  We don't need to check out until noon, so it makes it easy.

Both of the major churches that we want to see have services this morning and are not open to visitors until after 12 anyway.
It was certainly worth the measly €8 for the convenience of having the car on-site. We have got the packing down pat now and having sent some of our clothing, shoes and books etc back by post, we now have more balanced and lighter suitcases.  So right at noon we pack the bags into the car and wriggle out of the very tight car space.

Or first stop is at Uspenski Cathedral.  We park right in front in a private car park. Either not too many people know about this hidden gem, or are not prepared to pay €5 for an hour's visit. I don't care and really are appreciative of the fact that I don't need to walk too far!  And finally, a Church clock that has the correct time!!

This is an Eastern Orthodox cathedral in Helsinki, and the main cathedral of the Orthodox Church of Finland, dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos (the Virgin Mary). Its name comes from the Old Church Slavonic word uspenie. It is built in the Russian Orthodox style with gold plated orbs atop the turrets and church high points. Riikka has explained that if you want to be officially recorded in a religion, and have the option of choosing religious education for your children, then you need to pay a religious tax in Finland. The joke is that most of the tax goes to replace or add to the gold leaf atop this Cathedral on a regular basis.  

There are signs at the entrances saying 'No Tourists' but after countless others push past us to walk in, and some soul-searching on our part, we decided to also take a quick peek.

Inside the air is thick with the remnants of the incense used in the services this morning and it creates and it creates whorls as the sunlight streams through from the windows.  It is ornate with gilt and iconographic pieces.  As we are here, a small wedding party has arrived in a late model Porsche and is directed to the Krypt - presumably for their service.

While not particularly old, the Cathedral is striking from near and far with that gleaming gold against the green capped rooflines.

The next church we visit is in the other quarter of the waterside centre.  This is the Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral (Tuomiokirkko). This is a very large imposing white building with a green domed roof.  It towers over the large and impressive Senate Square. 

Getting a car park in the street below the Cathedral, we entered through the Krypt that was currently home to an interesting art exhibition by Makela Pirkko. 

Inside, this building is humble and understated and is in direct contrast to the ornate orthodox church we have just seen.  The Lutheran religion does not put the emphasis on the altar, but rather, on the pulpit where the priest preaches the word of God.  

The young, female priest, dressed in a brightly coloured striped dress leaves as we take a seat in the pew.  She was not more than 35.

We wandered out to the top of the steps of the Senate Square, observing the very geometric layout of the architecture around this impressive square.  Down around the fountain, there is a flurry of activity which appears to be the packup after last night's Midnight Run through Helsinki - celebrating the last day of Summer here!

After this, Riikka gave us an hour tour through the streets of Helsinki and out along the waterside residential areas.  I particularly loved the new Helsinki Wave Library set is wide, open lawned areas.

We finally dropped her off outside Taro's home with lots of hugs and kisses and genuine love.  It has been so lovely to spend special time with her and to have time with the family generally.  We are already planning to catch up again when Riikka and Runo come out to Australia looking at job opportunities next March or April. 

Flying to Stockholm tonight, we say goodbye to Finland and watch some of their thousand of islands and islets dwarf as we move away, and the fingers of water that move into the countryside slip away.  As we near Sweden, the clouds start to appear.  Once we are over this coastline, it is evident that although there are some islands off the coast and rivers extending away from the coast, there is not as many as Finland.  And the forests here are denser, more tightly sown and yet another different green.  So close, and yet already we see the differences.











The clouds thickened, the cotton wool became denser, the plane shuddered a few times, buffeted by the storm and just under the hour later, we landed at Stockholm (Arlanda) airport.  I pulled my irksome ankle as we walked the half kilometre from the gate to the baggage claim area. So now I am really hobbling.

We caught a cab to the Raddison Blu Arlandia hotel and have already decided that we will book another night and have a rest day tomorrow to try to soothe it.  The cabbie told us it had been raining on and off today and we promised him clear skies tomorrow.  He laughed it off and we had to convince him that we have taken the sunshine everywhere we have been!


Dinner tonight was ordered in - Donna had a HUGE Caesar Salad with Chicken and I had the Swedish Meatballs with Lingonberries and mashed potato.  Nice to just veg.