A short return to Venice

Thats right folks - no blog for yesterday! Spent much of it catching up on the blogs from the last two weeks. And you will all be pleased to know that we are up to date - well, we only have today's to go! Michael washed. And cooked a lovely roast for dinner along with potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, zucchini, mushrooms and leeks! Whoo hoo - veges!! And all in one small frying pan and one saucepan! Amazing how resourceful you can be when you must be.

But neither of us slept very well last night - well, actually hardly at all. We have come to the realisation that the Year on the Road is coming to a near end. Our dollars are almost done. Ironic that we are now getting the best exchange rate for the whole year, just as we are planning our return. The disappointment is that we will not get to Turkey or Greece on this trip. And we have not seen as much of Eastern Europe as we had hoped we might have. BUT, we have had the most fantastic time, met some wonderful people, seen sights to delight and despair, and learned to really appreciate all that we previously took for granted!

The nights are getting longer, with the darkness holding on, reluctant to give in so easily to the rising sun, and the mornings are much much cooler now (down to as low as 7°C) making much harder to pull the bones from the bed. So after a later than planned start, we headed back into Venice. A ten minute drive puts us at the rail station where a 25 minute trip puts us on the Grande Canal in Venice. The train ticket was a miserly €2.35 for a single trip - not bad huh!

The trains run ever half hour except for the 'interval' between 12 and 1 pm (presumably when they do lunch!). We had arrived just after noon, and so had to wait until 12:50 for the next train. Oh well, such is the lot of the Carkagai!

On arrival at the Venice San Lucia station, which incidently, once you are on the island is only known by the local name of Ferrovia, we made our way across the plaza to the Canal in front of us. Another queue for tickets then! €16 for a 12hour ticket was by far the cheapest option. Our plan is to get back over to the island of Murano to have a look at some of the glass factories. Now, there are two ways to get to Murano - the all stops line 41 or 42 or the much faster DM (Direzione Murano) service. As we are waiting for the waterbus, we see one one of the boats that regularly ply the waters delivering transport to the various hotels. We sit out the arrival and departure of both a 41 and then a 42 before the DM arrives. It takes about 20 minutes to get there going out past San Marco into the Bay.

The day is still dull, but it is beautiful out here on the water. The fishing nets are all deployed, leaving their securing poles standing high and dry out of the water looking like a forest of bare timber. We alight at the first of the Murano stops and head away from the crush of people here to where we saw the factories as we were leaving last time. Just in time to see the last two demonstrations of the day at two of the factories. You gotta remember that it is no longer the tourist season, and everyone seems to be taking life a little slower now!

I'm a little disappointed, as I was hoping to see someone working with the millefiori. But we couldn't find anyone doing it and have to be content to watch then hand blow and then make Murano Glass vases, plates and even a horse! Huh, be content? These artisans are amazing and make it all look so effortless. We are told that an apprenticeship to become a master glass worker on Murano is 15 to 20 years - gosh, for many people that is much of their working life! Many still pass their trade from father to son. Once the demonstrations are over you are invited in to have a look at the factory shops. If only I had an unlimited budget :( I could have bought so many beautiful things, but it is still expensive - even at the factory outlets.

We walk through the back streets of Murano that are now totally devoid of tourists, stopping to check the diection to Il Centro with a local who doesn't even let us finishing ask the question before he points the way - guess they are used to foreigners wandering about their town!! The alleys are quiet and all around us we hear the muffled voices of lives inside the walls we pass. The street names are quite evocative too!

Back out on the main canal, we cross over to the other side on another of the arched bridges that are found at regular intervals right throughout Venice and head for Murano Faro ferry stop. We are now headed for Burano - a smaller island still right across the other side of the bay. Now, Burano is known for two things - lace making (which is becoming a dying tradition here) and coloured houses. Traditionally, all the fishermen painted their houses the same colour as their boats so they could see their home when fishing. Not sure how much of that is fact and how much fiction.

The water bus system of transport thoughout Venice is amazing. The ferries are regular, crowded and are seldom at a jetty for more than 2-3 minutes which means that you must be ready to jump off or on. It takes us just over half an hour to reach Burano. Sure, the houses are a myriad of bright colours that sit next to one another, competing for domination of the eye. But I really don't think that they could have been seen for too far out in the bay - the island and its canals and streets curve, limiting any view. But they are colourful and on this still quite grey afternoon, they are bright and welcoming.

There is a line up of people waiting for the return trip to Venice from Burano. A quick check of the timetable tells us that this is an hourly service only with the next ferry leaving in about 5 minutes. It would have been lovely to spend some time wandering, but we need to get back so I can do a little more shopping and so we can have a look at the Bridge of Sighs before we leave Venice for yet another time. So we just join the end of the queue.

Out trip back is 1¼ hours long and takes us right around the other side of the bay which really is like a big lagoon at this end. There are lots of marshes supporting grasses and bird life out here which demonstrates just how shallow these waters really are. Finally, we see the built environment of Venice loom once again and we enter into the complex system of canals from the other end. The jetties around San Marco are frenetically busy with craft continually pulling in and out of the various moorings at breakneck speed. I am glad to be back on dry land - just wish that it would stand still for me!

We join the masses wandering along the waterfront in the dusk light. It is amazing! And guess what? Remember all those Italians we came across in Germany? Well they are repaying them and now San Marco is filled with Germans. Even Steph is not home (she is in the US for work with Felix joining her today for a week's holiday), so I hope someone remembered to turnout the lights there too!! ha ha

We cross the multitude of bridges that span the numerous canals at this end of the city. And finally we are looking down another canal at the Bridge of Sighs. It looks a little forlorn as it is surrounded by heavy hoarding on all sides, making it appear to be just hanging, disconnected from everything. The hoarding is bright, brash and harsh and is hiding works on the two buildings that it connects. Pity, not a good look really - especially when some of that hoarding sports big advertising signage. There are lots of gondeliers pacing the waters below with their cargo of interested humans. They all hug the left wall as though not to spoil the view for those looking as we are from the bridge at the edge of the canal.

So another tick off our list. One last stop at the Rialto Bridge so I can buy a few little trinkets. Easier said than done. This is the most popular route on the water bus system and although we are at only the third stop along the route, the boats are full when they reach San Marco. The staff are only letting 10 - 12 people on at a time, much to the frustration of the rest of us left waiting. We stand in the sardine tin for almost 40 minutes before we can get on one of the ferries.

Up at the Bridge, the shops are all starting to close. It is now 7:30 pm and I suppose they too have a life to live outside the demands of the tourists. Still, I get what I need to and we head back to the jetty for our last ferry trip in Venice - back to Ferrovia (make that Venice San Lucia) Station for the trip back to the car. We get to the station with just enough time spare to get our tickets before we make a quick dash to the train that leaves in 2 minutes.

Once onboard we crash, both dozing on and off and before we know it, we are at the station at Quatro D'Altino. Its been a very full afternoon and evening and as we pull in to the driveway at Ca' Serena at 9 pm we are glad to be headed for the quiet time of the day. As I am starting this blog after having just posted the last of the tardy ones, Antony, Amanda and Bella are online on Skype and we have a nice catch up. Gotta love technology guys. Tomorrow we are off to Slovenia, staying overnight in Laško en-route to meeting Donna in Zagreb in Croatia on Sunday morning. Whoo hoo!

When a story rings true

Sunday 20 September 2009

Today finds us travelling from Venice to Bologna. Helen had brought John Grisham's latest novel 'The Broker' with her and over the last week when we were cooling our heels around Lake Garda, both Michael and I read it. The story is set in the University town of Bologna in the region of Emilia-Romagna in central northern Italy. In fact, we later learn that the University of Bologna is the oldest one in Europe, established in 1088! Ahh, but Bologna has more than just links to a story to offer - much, much more.

We set out from Venice after a good night's sleep and a tasty if predictable breakfast. Its funny that when we are at home we are all creatures of habit with our breakfasts each morning, but at least there, we have the option of having a change if we really fancy it. Here in Europe however, there is a sameness to the breakfasts offered by hotels that is becoming increasingly boring for those of us who face them day in and out. Shouldn't complain though, we don't have to prepare it, nor clear up after it. (Hey, washing up is beginning to look attractive - egads!)

Our trip today takes us away from the land of rising waters. With the trip to Bologne just on 150 kms we choose to get off the motorways and along the back roads into the much drier centre of Italy where we pass miles of fields freshly harvested. With a wind blowing, we travel through a dusty bowl with the windows down then up and down and up, bit like a yoyo. What is lovely though is the way that the Italians use trees to line the main roads, offering a respite from the searing sun. They are used extensively as wind breaks - along main roads to and from towns as well as along the edges of fields. And there is a wide variety of trees used as well - providing a nice visual.

And still life goes on around the remains of earlier activities with fields ploughed right to the edges of derelict buildings that stand as a silent testimony to passed days and ways. For a while we travel along roads that run along the top of flood levees, no doubt built to protect the fertile farming land from the ravages of the floods of the Po River. We pass through tiny hamlets, orchards, rural Italian villages - usually set back from the road which is a different to France towns and skirt the edges of the cities of Padua, Rovigo and Ferrara before we reach Bologna.

We arrive in Bologna around 2:30 pm and are greeted like with many other of these towns by tight narrow streets that give Helen cause for nervousness. We have been lucky enough to get accommodation tonight at the Hotel San Donato, one of the Best Western chain. We tend not to stay in the chain motels very often as there is often a sameness about them, so that when you wake in the morning, you need to stop and think just where you might be. Many times, they could be in any city in any country. Ah, but not this one! You see, this hotel has a view over the Towers of Bologna. These two structures are the last standing in a city where there once stood up to 100!

Kate tries to direct me in to pedestrian areas which makes life a little interesting for a while, but we eventually manage to find our way around the warren of tight back roads with people double parking and cyclists coming out of everywhere to the correct street for the hotel. And drive straight past the Towers! Bugger - Via Zamboni has one of those big thick bollards that raise and lower to control car entry into this area. Michael gets out to speak at the control, while all I can do with traffic hard behind me is sit tight and wait. Thankfully there is a button for the hotel and as soon as they confirm we do indeed have a reservation, there is a loud claxon wailing and the bollard sinks into the pavement below it and we can progress the last 100 m to the hotel. Which is good as the traffic is still piled up behind us!

We unload our gear into our rooms. Yes, plural. Like most of the chain motels, the rooms are set up for only two people and so tonight we have separate rooms. Ours is down one hall and has a sitting room attached and a glimse of the top of the towers, while Helen's has a small balcony attached. There is a fascinating view of the towers and the rooftops of Bolonga from a terrace off the hotel sitting room and bar that really piques our interest! We are in a hurry to get out and about - there is much exploring to be done, and not much time.

Firstly we head to the Due Torri (Two Towers) just two blocks away. These are the last remaining full towers in a city that was once quite literally full of them. Not all were as tall as these two however! Originally built as the ultimate examples of 'keeping up with the Joneses' they were built as private dwellings at a time when you could never be sure if your neighbour was your friend or your foe. Both the towers date back to the 12th century. The Asinelli Tower is the taller of the two and is a little younger than its neighbour with the alarming lean - the Garisenda tower, which was abandoned after the lean became apparent during its construction. Since then it has been lowered from 60 m to 48 m high.

Michael of course cannot resist the call the climb the 498 steps of the Asinelli Tower and so Helen and I cop a squat on the marble edging that borders the steps up in to the colonaded shops across the street to wait. And although this is a traffic restricted area, there is still a lot of traffic including buses. We lose count of the number of times that there are very close calls as people leave the tower and step out - straight on to the street and often in the path of oncoming cars, buses or motorbikes! Doesn't seem to worry anyone else though!

Once down he tells us that the steps were at first spiral and then ascended around the inside walls of the square tower - albeit very narrowly with passing being quite difficult. Being timber, they show the passage of hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of feet over the years. There are small windows through which he could see the changing view of the city rooftops as he progressed higher and higher and you pass the huge rods that have been inserted to contain the structure and try to stop the tower from toppling. The view from the top is stupendous out across the old city and over the newer areas around the edges of the town if the photos are anything to judge it by! Still, 498 steps, nah, not me!! Interestingly, the lean of the Garisenda does not appear to be so dramatic from on high. Yet it is recorded at a lean of more than 3 metres!

He eventually comes back to earth, his shirt stuck to his back with perspiration as it is very muggy, but all excited. He has spied what appears to be a number of the landmarks that John Grisham has used in his book! Next stop - the Piazza Maggiore with the strange looking exterior of the Chiesa di San Petronio - the Basilica of St Peter. It first appears as a thrown together building with an impressive under facade of marble topped by a bricked affair that was added much later. Originally planned to be a masaterpiece of Gothic architecture, the building was abandoned once the plans for the coronation of Charles V and funds dried up.

In the Piazza that faces the Cathedral there is also the Palazzo di Notai and Palazzo Communale near which we can find the impressive Fontanna del Neptuno (Neptune Fountain). But this piazza is not just a place of impressive structures and buildings. It is a living breathing hub within the city that pulsates with the life of its people. There is a Punch and Judy show noisily arguing in one corner, a pan flute player in the centre drawing a crowd as well as a more alternative drumming and comic act that is setting up near the fountain. Coffee shops face into the square as most do here in Europe, where people sit side by side rubbing shoulders with those at the next table so that everyone can see. Nice really. So we sit for a while too and drink in the atmosphere along with our coffee.

There is an arcade in the market building where it is said that if you stand in the corner under one of the arches where the two arcades cross that you can clearly hear the conversation in the opposite corner. There were three young guys who managed to get Michael to stand there. By the looks on their faces I felt sure that it was a bit of a prank, but Michael assured me that he could clearly hear their mate indeed - not understand his Italian, but definitely hear it!! The light is starting to fail and so we decide to walk along some of the arcades back to the hotel. Of course, as we leave the shelter of the last one, the heavens open and it begins to rain steadily. It really doesn't matter which way we go now, we are going to get wet and unlike the Scouts, we have come out unprepared - after all, we were just going out for a bit of a look!

Before dinner, we decide to make use of the nicer facilities that the hote offers and Helen and I settle in at the bar to have a vino. Pinot Grigio it is and the young waiter - Stefano, is super friendly and very chatty. For a while, we are his only customers! And for a while, we have the stunning views out across the terrace (where it is still raining and too wet to sit) are stunning as the night deepens.

On the advice of the Hotel receptionist we head out to the restaurant locally known as Tratorria AnnaMaria (for the chef owner) a few blocks away. It seems that here the later in the day that it is, the more people are out in the streets. That of course is helped by the fact that the university does not hold classes at night, so all the students can go out and party. - Our wait staff were Georgeo and Federica. He spoke no English, but his attitude and games certainly struck a chord with us all - Michael particularly. Federica on the other hand spoke some English and between her attempts and our proudly improving Italian, we manage to have a feast!
Entrees:
Michael and I begin with primo piatto (first course) of pasta
Tagliatelle al ragú (Tagliatelle with meat sauce) Michael
Gnocchi al gorgonzola (Gnocchi with Gorgonzola) Maria
Mains:
Ravioli con salsa di bolongese (Ravioli with meat sauce) Helen
Stinco di agnello cotto con verdure (Lamb shank cooked with vegetables) Michael
Di vitello con funghi porcini (Veal with porcini mushrooms) Maria
Desserts:
Helen's Zabaione (Zabaglione) is the best she has ever had Limone gelo crema (Lemon Ice Cream) Michael
Creme Carmel (Crema Caramel) Maria
When we asked Federica if she wanted to travel to Australia she quite emphatically said no - she likes her Italy - wow, that was a first!!

Back to the Hotel San Donato just in time for one more drink before the bar closes at 11 pm. Can't remember what Helen had but I had an Amaretto and Orange Juice and I am thrilled when Stefano goes out to his kitchen and bring in three oranges to juice for my drink - man, that is service - and one of the best drinks I have had in ages. He wipes down the seats for us on the terrace and finally we sit outside (with the mossies) taking in the best of the view. What a day.

Looking through the glass

As we already had our bus tickets, we did not rush to breakfast this morning. The breakfast at Hotal Adria is quite ok with 'fresh' (caterers pack) blood orange juice, good coffees, croissants and rolls with jams and cheese spreads. Once we have kitted up the backpack for the day we set off, just missing the No 7 bus into Venice. Bugger, a 20 minute wait. Oh, hang on, here is another one! The bus is very full and its part way before I can get a seat. The day is bright and very warm, and that bus is getting hotter and hotter. Again, we play dodge the pedestrian, the scooter, the car, other buses and lots of limos as we arrive on the island.

Helen has postcards to post so heads for the post office while we suss out the best way over to Murano. Poor Helen has a long wait in the queue at the post office, moving well down the line before realising that she needs a ticket for service - and then watches while the locals ignore the number system and just push in. To make matters worse the service clerk is not only disinterested, he is quite abrupt and rude.

Finally she is out and we head for the long route ferry to Murano. This takes us around the outside of the island stopping at a number of jetties before heading out across Laguna Morta firstly to the Cimitero Island and then Laguna Veneta to the much smaller island of Murano. As we arrive, we actually see our first example of the plight that faces all of Venice - the tide is high and as the ferry docks, the water is washing well across the pavements - we have to dodge not only the puddles, but the waves of water as they come forward and then ebb, time and time again!

We are hoping to see venetian glass and in particular the Millefiore glass being made. Its not long before our hopes are dashed - while there are plenty of glass shops, the factories closed on the weekends. Bugger bugger bugger. One of the retailers draws comparisons to factories in Australia, to car factories and anything else he can think of - they are all closed on the weekends - and he obviously gets asked the same question plenty of times.

We do the rounds of the shops along the main Rio dei Vetra, the main canal that leads from the ferry pier. There are amazing sights and wondrous things to peruse. We see lots of ornaments and jewellery and chandeliers and vases and more. Much of it is very similar from shop to shop, although each one does seem to have one or two items that are fairly unique. Helen has been looking for presents and texts her sister with a question about whether her mum had a piece of Murano jewellery. Back came the answer, "Save your money, but if you can find a hatpin . . ." Gosh that was not something we had seen to date but at the very next shop we enter we find the perfect gift!

We stop for cold drinks before continuing to graze up the street - yep, I do mean that, we buy little mementos at various shops. My eye is drawn to a shop that sells Venetian Glass miniatures - oh, they are so intricate and beautiful! And oh so expensive! We are working our way to the next islet where the Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) is housed in the Palazzo da Mula over a footbridge. Ha ha,it is closed - for lunch. Like many other things here in Italy. We want to see more of Venice itself and so decide not to wait the 1½ hours until it re-opens.

One of the collection of photos that I have been gathering during our trip has been that of the windows and window boxes of Europe. And I was not about to miss this one on Murano where the flowers are - GLASS of course! Blown glass, just like the collection I have in the bathroom at home!

On the way back we get the fast ferry which makes two collections on Murano and deposits at the railway station and the main ferry terminal. And of course, as luck would have it, we realise as we go sailing past them that there were indeed a couple of factories open to demonstrate for the tourists. Bugger again. (although they were not the main factories).

Our aim when we return to Venice today is to get the ferry right down to the other end of the Island so we can visit the Piazzetta Di San Marco with the Loggetta, the Clock Tower and St Mark's Basilica and the Doge's Palace. Unfortunately the ferries that ply the Grande Canal stop at least at every other pier, so it is a 20 minute trip. We are amazed at the dexterity of the ferry captains, and the frenetic passage of water craft up the canal. I keep having to remind mself that this is the equivalent of a road network, complete with buses (ferries), trucks (barges) family cars (boats) and those out for a Sunday Drive (the gondolas)!

At last we arrive at the San Marco stop and alight. Across a small bridge and we are on a wide (for Venice) foot avenue where artists have their easels set up and paintings for sale out. These are balanced out with the 'trash and treasure' sellers that seem to be found everywhere today with the same mostly junky items that are mass made. Unfortunately, these are always the more aggressive sellers who turn the tourist off when it comes to buying.

We continue to walk ahead and then all of a sudden, there is the amazing sight of the Piazza San Marco with the Doge Palace, the Basilica Di San Marco with it's Campanile, the standards of the City with the statues of Saint Mark, the patron saint of Venice and the winged lion (Griffin) and the extravagant shopping arcades that surround the square and the restaurants that spill out into this lively place. The Basilica San Marco is an amazing building. It is not really a beautiful building in terms of symmetry and harmony. Quite the opposite in fact. It is a busy, sometimes jarring combination of various styles of building that brings the most major example of Byzantium to Venice and Italy. There are domes above the Greek cross layout and the arches that face the square are filled with amazing mosaics on golden backgrounds.

We sit in the Piazza San Marco in the shade of the colonaded shopping malls at the Caffe Florian contemplating their menu. When finally we attract the attention of our waiter, he tells us there is a €6 music charge per person - hmm, do we have any choice? We are sitting out on the piazza and life doesn't get much better. The menu is not huge, but there is enough to appeal to each of us. Which is good, I guess, because the prices do not really appeal to anyone, but what the heck, we are only in Venice for today and the setting is like a fairytale. So we sit with a coffee and dessert while watching the world go by and just embracing the ambience. However, Michael is unable to contain himself as he dashes off in an attempt to reach the summit of the Campanile. Oh, well, it appears his coffee and dessert will have to wait....

The Campanile di San Marco is the bell tower of St Mark's Basilica in the Piazza San Marco, Venice. It stands 98.6 meters tall and is the centre piece in the piazza opposite the Basilica. Built initially during the 9th century upon Roman foundations, it original use is believed to have been as a watchtower or lighthouse for the port and an observatory. The Campanile has been the inspiration for the design of other towers throughout the world; this includes the Brisbane City Hall, Queensland, Australia. Over the centuries the Campanile has undergone various stages of restoration as it had been subjected to several collapses due to the weakening of its superstructure. Today, however, it stands as the beacon to the port of San Marco.

Visitors to the Campanile can enjoy virtually uninterrupted views of Venice from the belfry. The five bells in the belfry are now silent, although, each had a specific purpose. The largest bell 'Marangona' was rung at the beginning and end of each workday. Of the smaller bells: 'Nona' was rung to signify midday; 'Trottiera' was rung to call Council Members to meetings; 'Mezza Terza' rang to herald the session of the Senate; finally, 'Renghiera' (or the 'Maleficio') was rung to announce executions!

However, my interest in the Campanile lay in the initial telescopic observations made by Galileo Galilei which inspired him to write his brief treatise entitled 'Sidereus Nuncius' ('Starry Messenger'). It is Venice in 1609, where a short and stocky man with red hair, heard of the new Flemish invention - the telescope. The news electrified the fortyfive year old Galileo, inspiring him to construct an example of the 'spyglass'. In one night he stepped up the magnification which rendered the device's amplification equal to the of an opera glass. Racing up to the top of the Campanile to test his telescope, Galileo was not satisfied with its magnification. Making new and larger lenses and increasing the focal length to the tube of his new telescope - he soon discovered the magnification was increased three fold. He now had a real telescope.

Uses for this invention were profound and no less than for military use; which would have been more beneficial to the Brokers of the Rialto. However, Galileo turned his invention towards the heavens and in particular - the moon. Galileo's 'Starry Messenger' and his later volume, 'Dialogo Sopra i due Massimi Sistemi del Mondo' ('Dialogue Concerning the Two Chief World Systems') would bring him into direct conflict with the Catholic Church and the Roman Inquisition. In 1632, Galileo was tried by the Inquisition, found guilty under the suspicion of heresy and forced to recant. He would spend the rest of his life under house arrest. On the day Galileo died, 8th January 1642, Isaac Newton was born.

Michael returns on a high and just beaming after his rendezvous with the bell tower. As he returns to our table, he excitedly blurts that he stood at the very spot where Galileo Galilei tested his telescope. Yes, and Michael has taken a photo of the marble plaque attesting to Galileo's contribution to astronomy - oh, well....

And as we finish up in the Piazza, we take one last stroll past the up-market shops to be found around the square, marvelling at the artistic skill on show in the beautiful glasswork pieces. Then its back up the Grande Canal to catch our bus back to Mestre. Gosh, there was still so much that we didn't get to see on Venice. You could spend a lifetime here wandering the back lanes and canals, making all sorts of interesting little discoveries along the way. But time is marching and other locations in Italy beckon . . .