Hobart - a City of choices

 Despite the rain late yesterday and last night, this morning dawned overcast but clear. The rain has cleansed everything, the air is crisp and the light is bright.

We begin our morning with breakfast at Daci and Daci - yet another bakery recommended by many. Situated on the fringe of the CBD, we consider ourselves lucky to get a car space across the road. They are busy, but we get a table without any difficulty. And now to the choices - the first of many for the day.

The menu is varied with all day servings from both the breakfast and lunch meals. After coffees while we deliberate, we settle on a Twice Cooked Gruyere Souffle from the breakfast choices and a Chicken, Creamed Leek and Tarragon Pie served with Red Pepper Relish from the lunch menu. I ate about 3/4 of the souffle and Gen, 3/4 of the pie. They were truly delicious, flavour-some but not at all heavy. The service couldn't be faulted, again with all staff wishing the patrons, enjoy the rest of your day - every one of them to every customer. TASMANIA DOES SERVICE and does it very well. There is no rush, people sit and chat, sipping hot drinks if not partaking in a meal. We admire how classy the black uniform looks on the waitresses, and look up at the funky lighting. We've decided rayther than try to take a cake with us, we would add dessert to our breakfast - we are not planning to have lunch so we are ready for Mures and seafood tonight! In deference to the growing number of patrons in the shop, Gen goes to the front display counters and photographs the amazing pastries and cakes - all of them! They are amazing and are the subject of choice no 2. Again, we decide that if we buy two different ones, and share them, we can expand our experiences. After discussions and sometimes almost arguments, we choose the Mandarin and the Organic Chocolate and Raspberry Bombe.

The Mandarin looks realistically like a ripe, plump mandarin sitting atop a fine small pastry tart and the Bombe had the crispest tempered chocolate shell encasing a rich but not over-sweet pudding consistency filling with a raspberry gel centre. They were very different, one lighter and citrussy and the other rich and the other dark and decadent. Needing another hot drink to have with our desserts, but not wanting to be bouncing off walls, we both had a seven-spiced Chai Latte. So, breakfast, morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea all done in the one setting we leave this little bit of paradise.

Our next choice was to decide whether we take a little time out to plan the coming few days, or start our exploration of historic Hobart. Planning won and we headed to the Tourist Information Bureau for advice and bookings. Again, the service was friendly and prompt. Staff gladly shared their passion and knowledge for their home state, made suggestions and checked vacancies in the South East for the following few days. I had booked for Port Arthur before we left home, but that was as far as we had planned. So looking at our (dwindling) time and our desire to see as much of the island state as we possibly can. So we explored two routes in particular around the Huon and Bruny Island.

After checking accommodation and tour vacancies we settled on two days on Bruny Island staying at the Bruny Hotel lodges at Alonnah and on my birthday, taking the Pennicott Wilderness cruise on the waters around the island and the adjacent Tasman Sea. We have needed to buy a National Park Pass. You buy it for a day, a week or for 2 months. So two months it is! Not sure whether we will be able to pass it on to someone for the second month, seems like a bit of a waste if we can't, but it was the most economical choice (yes, another choice!!) Also booked the Bruny Island ferry (also owned by SeaLink - starting to think that they have control of most of the ferries connecting the Australian mainland and our far-flung islands). After collecting appropriate tourist literature, we raced across the road to 'negotiate' with parking inspectors who had taken an interest in our car. Like all the Tasmanians they were friendly, and given that we were now ready to leave, they were accommodating. (we had overstayed our time - just a little!)

Parking, like in any capital city, is at a premium. The VIC (visitor information centre) staff had recommended that we use the Council car parks as they are cheaper and more conveniently located than the private car parks. Would hate to see how much less convenient the private ones are, because it was a bugger to get to the Council one! Google Maps does not recognise one-way streets in Hobart, so we ended up going quite a few blocks more than what we would have, had we been on foot.

This afternoon was devoted to exploring the Hobart CBD. Leaving the carpark, we encounter the first of many many hills and dales. Hobart has any number of very steep streets, and given the distance that we were planning on seeing, she had insisted that it was a wheelchair day. Thank goodness she did, there is no way that I could have walked where we went. We followed 'Hobart's Historic Places - A walking guide through the city centre' - a guide we can highly recommend.

We concentrated our walk in the Victoria, Collins, Macquarie and Davey Streets between Argyle and Harrington Streets. We explored church and cathedral - St Joseph's Church - the oldest surviving Catholic Church in Hobart and St David's Cathedral where we found a tattered piece of a Union Jack flag that is dedicated to Australia's last Anzac Alec William Campbell, in stark contrast with home where we celebrate Australia's first Anzac, Duncan Chapman. 

Following these immersions, we moved into more secular surroundings, stopping to admire the statuary and fountain and public art in Franklin Square where the dedications leave no doubt to the appreciation of the citizens of Hobart to earlier public models. Hobart's amazing architectureincludes the Hobart City Hall, the National Mutual Life Building, the Masonic Lodge, Hadley's Hotel, Ingle Hall and Hobart Town Hall - which span more than 200 years. We finally arrive at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery. It was here we took refuge from the sun and breeze, although I found the temperature and humidity controlled environment a tad chilly. And my poor lips are paying the price - I was hoping that away from the stresses of work, my lips would stop peeling - wind and aircon however are giving them no respite! 

This complex is set in three floors (plus basement) of the former Bond Store and an adjacent younger building. Beginning with the geography, geology and zoological displays that showcased Tasmania's unique wildlife very well, the second and third floors concentrated on the social history of the development of the state, concentrating predominantly on the Hobart area. it was good to see that the encounters and later treatment of the First Peoples were genuinely portrayed. As sad as any colonising force many of the local natives that were encountered were murdered.

In the adjacent building there were exhibits that detailed Australia's activities and excursions into Antarctica where the worrying prediction states that within 50 years we may see much of that continent devoid of snow in the summer months!
There was scientific equipment, a 'live' (for the want of a better word) chunk of Antarctic ice - place in a frame on a refrigerated bed.  No wonder I was feeling the cold in this room! Gen on the other hand loved its icy air!!

The balance of this building housed art exhibitions including a Taswegian artist who lost her home in bushfires and is constructing new furniture from reclaimed wood and branches and twigs, hoping to fill a future home that is airy and stark. Her pieces are very organic and really tell a story. There was the Tasmanian collection of old and new masters and one focussed on jewellery. That one didn't really appeal to either of us.

It is now 4:45 pm and the museum is closing. Back into the streets we go, me in the wheelchair and Gen manouvertting through the-end-of-working-day crowds, up more. hills than we care to count to return to the car. We have a booking at Mures for dinner and Gen really wants to rest for an hour or so before a refreshing shower. Our reservation is for 7:30pm, the first booking we could get.

At 6:45 we depart the Battery Point Manor for Mures. 

There are three venues at the facility - Mures Upper Deck which is a rated restaurant, Mures Lower Deck which is more casual and Pearl and Co which is more of a retailing seafood. We had a reservation for Mures Upper Deck - on the recommendation of friends and those who have previously lived in Hobart. 
The traffic has calmed down and we find. parking spot within metres of the door. That was where my luck ran out. They have a stair-lift, a commercial version of the one we were considering for home, but it needs a key. So up the stairs goes Gen to collect said key, only to be told that the lift is currently out of order. Back down she comes to deliver the bad news and to walk behind me as I climb 18 stairs to the restaurant. With 14 steps at home, I figured it would be a breeze. Not quite. They were steeper and those last 4 steps were a challenge.

We are shown to a window-side table, both seated to look out over the waters of Victoria Dock and beyond that to Constitution dock where the Sydeny to Hobart Race ends. 
The menu is not large, and with some meat and vegan options, it focuses on locally caught seafood.
More choices to be made. Do we do entrees, mains and desserts? Or do we choose The Share Table at $70 per head? Of course we chose the latter and it was sublime, beginning with warm olive bread with oil and balsamic reduction that we paired with a cocktail. Then the courses in order of presentation were:
1. Oysters - we chose Kilpatrick
2, Gravlssx
3. Scallops (roe on) with smashed broad beans and bacon scallop cream
4. (Amazing) Seafood spaghetti with squid, salmon, premium white fish, prawns with a tomato salsa - one of the best dishes I have ever eaten.
5. Mures prawns and crumbed pink ling with chips, salad, brocollini and beans. And they had the hide to call this Fish and Chips!
6. Finally, dessert! A Chocolate Mousse with salted caramel sauce, toasted cocnut, orange segments and an almond crisp, It was light but oh-so-rich. The other dessert was a much lighter Earl Grey brulee, milk crumb and candied citrus peel.
We enjoyed a cocktail followed by a Pinot Gris for me and a cherry and pear Cider for Gen. We couldn'e even fit in any coffee!!

Decided we would walk along the dock looking at amazing bronzed statuary that pay homage to early settlers, early explorers and those who have lost their lives at sea fishing so that all of Australia can have quality seafoods from the cold southern waters. By now the wind had dropped and there were few pedestrians and even fewer cars, so it was easy to spend the next hour wandering the dock.

We have now returned to the Battery Point Manor and as I finish this tale, Gen is re-loading suitcases in readiness for our departure tomorrow for Port Arthur.

Check in again tomorrow night for the next instalment in our trip!

A day of old and new - historic Hobart and MONA

 Woke this morning feeling like a mac truck had hit me!  Proud of the walking etc yesterday, but methinks I need to pace myself a little.

We got up at 9am and headed out a little while later. So we ended up at Jackman and McRoss for Brunch. It was busy - with locals, with tourists and the local biking fraternity. There's a lively buzz and the clatter of dishes and cutlery, steps on creaking old floorboards all muted by the smells. You know the sort, the smells of warmth and love  and warm breads and pastry. It was divine. 

Meredith had told us of their fabulous pies, but today we chose Potato Rosti with Avocado, Trout and Poached Egg (with an extra egg so we could share). It was at once comfortingly familiar, with a twist of fennel and chilli that showed us the chefs here don't rest on their laurels. We also ordered a Buttermilk and Raisin loaf with Butter and their Raspberry Jam (again, to share). It was amazing. Light, warm, with a sweet crusty top that smashed into delectable shards in your mouth. The loaf itself was fluffy and fragrant with plump raisins that was only enhanced with generous lashings of unsalted butter and even more generous dollops of rich fruity raspberry jam. I'm so in love with this jam, I intend to bring or post (😉) some home. Orders will be taken at $10 per bottle - that'll help pay for my postage!!

We contemplated buying an Opera Cake, or a Lemon and Passionfruit Meringue or some other delectable dessert to have later in the day, but couldn't justify that when we have tartlets, honeys, nuts sweet and savoury, and biscuits remaining from the visit to the Salamanca Markets! Perhaps as we depart the area on Tuesday.

So we took ourselves off on foot for a stroll through Battery Point. Quaint residences sit comfortably among other historic buildings that have been converted into cafes, restaurants of global cuisines (think, nepalese, japanese, thai) alongside historic pubs whose walls would no doubt tell many a salacious tale! Battery Point was named for the battery of guns established on the point as part of the early Hobart defences around 1818. They sat in what is now known as Princes Park. They were decommissioned in 1878 when a review found that instead of protecting the area, they would more likely draw fire into the (by then) heavily residential area.

The homes are small by today's standards, but obviously far more oppulent. The windows are ornate, many with wrought iron window boxes, stunning carved doorways with ornate knockers. The fences are varied, as varied as the houses they encase, but the most amazing sights are the gardens. Trees and flowers jostle with each other in small courtyards and small plots. Roses are blooming, firs are flowering and fruiting. One of the stunning sights were huge multi-coloured hydrangeas - twice as large as the pink and blue ones that graced my grandparents home in Taree. they were elongated in shades of white, creams, muted plummy colours, pastel greens - all in one blossom. Longer than my hand and almost as large as my forearm. Truly beautiful. There are a myriad of scents on the air, which is crisp in the morning. The light is clear, and everything looks bright and sharp. Hobart surely is a stunner.

We vanished back in time for an hour, wandering through Annick's Antiques. If there was only some affordable way to transport a dining table home. Anyone know of any Maryborough (Qld, not Victoria) residents driving a truck home from Tassie? There were so many silverware pieces, tablecloths, doilies and china specialities I could have bought to love! But I have promised myself (and Gen) that we are seriously downsizing our 'stuff' so I won't be buying any more to add to my collections at home.

The weather today is closing in. As we look out to Kunanyi today, like all large mountains the world across, is birthing the clouds that will later today bring a misting damp, dank rain. But for the moment it is still dry, so we head for MONA. Given that its a wheelchair visit, and there are 99 steps to climb from the ferry terminal, we have to bypass the beginning immersion of the Posh Pit on the Ferry. Nevertheless, the drive up the hill to the museum through the grounds of the Moorilla Vineyard is stunning. There are vines ranging from young plants, reaching skywards for the sunlight, to vines thicker than my arms that have withstood weathering, rain and dry and are now producing amazing bounties. The last of the grapes are refusing to fall, as if defying the whim of man and seasons by purposely missing the picking season!

And although the view from the water must be amazing, Gen made sure that I saw the weathered steel bulkheads from every possible angle. Steel and concrete and glass superimposing features are set amazingly sympathetically into the landforms in which it sits. The plants on the grounds are pre-dominantly native with the familiar scents of which they are so readily known. Its quite a juxtaposition, yet seems so 'normal' or 'natural'!

We began by exploring the outside exhibits of which there are plenty. From the neatly coiffed ramps set within steel frames leading you down to the well-shared rusted steel sculpture of a cement truck on the back of a prime-mover - constructed of the most ornate and 'pretty' iron lacework! There was the dome reminiscent of the horn of an old gramaphone - I sat there leaning in, straining to hear someone - floors below me - wanting to talk with someone out in the open air - but to no avail. It sat, a silent sentinel today, holding tight to secret conversations shared past. But for me, the most amazing was the white cube room, void of anything. One entry door in and one door on the adjacent side wall, leads out, and with narrow slit-like windows that have triangular glass rods inserted in them. If you just walk in , wonder and walk out, you will miss the majesty of glass and sunlight. But, if you sit quietly in reflection for a few minutes, you are rewarded with the magic of the rainbows that prisms create. The play of light that moves fleetingly through the room on all walls, across the floor and across the ceiling certainly have a magical feeling to them. We eventually leave and continue to the top viewing deck to take in the amazing views that this elevated position provides, before returning again, back down the winding path to the main museum.

Staff here, like most service staff we have encountered here in Hobart are very friendly and helpful. Now, you need to enter MONA with few expectations and fewer inhibitions. All the exhibits are below ground and the instruction is to start at the bottom. Like many of the instructions, this is double entende - a play on words. The collection is very eclectic, yet has been curated into a collection that gathers around themes. There are the old such as the Butchering Scene from a tomb in Saqqara, Egypt, dating to around to 2494 BC - carved in limestone with remaining traces of pigment. Then there are the new, such as the musical composition that is played by a quartet every afternoon at 4pm, of the music the composer has written that day - truly a work in progress.

There are Australian wonders of Sidney Nolan and 'Two Canoes' 2004 by Judy Watson who was born so close to home in Mundubbera. There are the challenging and confronting. From the collection of works based on suicide notes to the 'infamous' Vagina Wall - how different we all are!! Gen watched it from the sensual vibrating couch!
We walked passed a lush emerald green velvet curtain to be gestured stealthily into 'The Ladies Parlour' where two women were enjoying a high tea whilst being serenaded by a blindfolded saxophonist and treated to silver service by a butler. The room was subtly lit by an amazing crystal chandelier and its walls housed ornate treasures - crowns, small vessels and gilded sculptures and Egyptian jewellery including rings, brooches and headpieces.

For me, one of the most amazing installations was 'supersymmetry' two pieces that were inspired by the artist's residency at CERN. A conception of light pulses, strobe lights and grating sounds that depict CERN's work into mathematical modelling to help explain why particles have mass. Mathematical equations dash along computer screens while tiny balls dance across the plastic sheets over sound boxes. Absolutely enthralling.

We left MONA quite exhausted. It winds up and down, in and out, weaving a curated line through the main buildimg. Towards the end there are two exhibits designed to bring you to some internal 'peace' - one where you sit and sort into whichever pattern or process you choose, rice and lentils, allowing you to spend quiet time by yourself. The other is a depiction of the Library of Alexandria, one of the seven wonders of the ancient worl, lost to all mankind. It is presented as a library of nothing. white books with white, blank pages on white shelves. So we departed just short of the closing time, hours after we entered, knowing some, questioning more and with a feeling of accomplishment. Gen still feels its not something for her, but did say she enjoyed it more this visit. Maybe not for everyone, but I would still tell you to visit. I found it enthralling.

Back to Battery Point, trying to find somewhere for dinner, with most places fully booked. We strike it lucky a block away, but need to drive as it is now raining. The Shipwright's Arms is a local pub with a very tasty bistro. Andrew and Meredith's son Nick works here, but as luck would have it, he is at home in Queensland this weekend. I follow Meredith's recommendation and have the Seafood Chowder and Gen chooses their half Crayfish. Both now come with our recommendation also! Then back to the Battery Point Manor for some well-deserved rest. My feet kill me and Gen reckons that her calves will be screaming tomorrow!

We are hoping to get into the city centre for some walks tomorrow - but the weather will dictate our actual plans. Stay tuned peoples!

A new journey dawns - Gen and Maria do Tassie!

 Its been a long times between drinks as the saying goes.

The last two years have taught me some valuable lessons. Some have been harder to swallow and digest than others. Perhaps my greatest regret is knowing that my days of log distance travel are done. But I'm not ready to give it up completely yet. So we'll do what we can! Hence, Gen and I have arrived this morning in Hobart to travel the Apple Isle for a month, seeing and tasting and doing what we can.

Tasmania has always been on my bucket list and it has taken Covid, some life changes and travel limitations that I now have to get me here. Gen visited Tassie about five years ago when she drove down alone for three weeks, crossing on the SOT (Spirit of Tasmania for those not in the 'know'!) this time howver, we flew from brisbane.

We left home late on Wednesday afternoon with me still stressing about all the things I didn't get finished at work. But everything is in very capable hands with my colleagues Nicole and Brian picking up the load. Gone are the days when it was just me and everything slowed to a crawl till I returned from leave. Council's Grants Program and funded activities have increased exponentially and with it so has our team - from 1 to 2 and soon after 3!

So on Wednesday we went as far as Brisbane and spent some time with Antony, Amanda and the grandkids - its always a fun time. 

Took ourselves off to try a Korean Street food restaurant in Newmarket on Thursday - Crunchy K Chicken. Ordered up big (as usual) and of course, our eyes were bigger than our stomachs! I'm always amazed at just how much food growing children can down - guess its been a while! Had to hit Chermside Shopping Centre that day before catching up with Anne and Mick for lunch. Come Friday, we still hadn't found a coat to replaced the one I left at home in Maryborough. Like seriously, who forgets their coat when coming to Tasmania in March/April. Well, who else but me? So off to Indooroopilly we went and more shopping - it was such a chore (🤣). Managed to find a coat - not like the 3/4 one I left behind, but a thigh length one, so i'm not doubling up. Lord knows, I really don't need them very often at home! And, as luck would have it, MYER WAS HAVING A SALE!  Had to play my part to help the economy recover. So back to Antony's to re-pack the suitcaases with me changing my mind countless times. New clothes? or comfy faves? Think I did pretty well balancing the two.

As our flight this morning was early, we got Antony to run us over to the Ibis Hotel at the airport. That way, the only people needing to be up at a stupid hour was Gen and I. Well, we almost did a Mary Poppins and flew off on the west wind. We could not believe how windy it was at Brisbane Airport last night. In order to save the wheelchair from taking off across the councourse, the bags dropped.  We ate at their restaurant, the Cribb Island Bar - a bit better than your average bar food. Gen had Chicken Caesar Salad and I pushed my luck and ordered a chicken curry with rice. Managed to eat about 2/3 before my mouth screamed for me to stop. Vary tasty and I am so missing the flavours of spices - I have very much become a very dull gastronome.

This morning was a very early start - up at 4:25 for a taxi at 5. We were glad we did though, everything went very smoothly and the JetStar staff were wonderfully helpful. A huge shout out goes to Rachael who handled our luggage with aplomb at a very early work-time and then fronted up at the gate to process all those boarding. She had told us that the flight wasn't full and that we had an entire row (3 seats) to ourselves. Gen was very grateful. Turns out, this was the ONLY row not full! The rest of the flight was packed!

We landed at 10:30 but by the time we got off the plane - the last as I was collected in a wheelchair, and then waited for a maxi-taxi (and it took three taxi drivers to work out how to strap the wheelchair and me into the vehicle it was well after 11 am by the time we reached the hire car company. AAA Car Rental is one of a number of private companies that are significantly cheaper than the big companies. Owner Paul was very patient and courteous with us and nothing was too much trouble. He had contacted us before we left home and upgraded our booking to a station-wagon so that he could be sure there would be no dramas with the wheelchair - at no extra cost.

So armed with lots of suggestions and a few no-goes (I am going to miss out on travelling up Jacobs Ladder  😭 ) we set off for Salamanca Place. We are not sure that we will be back in Hobart on a Saturday again and we really didn't want to miss experiencing them.

And boy, did we!

Lots of food to sample including the most heavenly tart filled with lemon custard and topped with lemon curd that we shared as soon as we arrived. We purchased a sample pack of whisky/liquers from New Norfolk Distillery, so we know what to buy when we get to their cellar door!  We bought a variety of early season apples, beautifully savoury cheese biscuits, a range of sweet ones too, we got sample pots of honey so we can compare them with our local honey up home, we bought fresh blackberries and raspberries - for $5 a punnet!  A range of exquisitely Tasmanian flavoured nuts - with Wakame, Honey Pepper, Kunzea and Lime, Lemon Pepperberry and a very mild locally grown Wasabi! Then we indulged in some fudge for the road and some really decadent meringue - crisp and dry (not marshmallow - so I had to share with Gen!)
I got a lovely planter that the stall-holder had lavender displayed in. Looked at exquisite timber works - John D and Jim F and Andrew B would have loved these. Everything from bottle stoppers, to book covers to 3D prints to frames, to boards to furniture and they smelled amazing.

By 2:30, the vendors are beginning to pack up. Unlike our present markets at home, there was very little knick-knack, cheap imported or junk items. Two old book sellers and one second hand record seller. amazing fabric crafts and heaps of local producers. And, without fail, every stallholder, and I mean every one, wished us a pleasant day at the markets. They had no idea if we were locals or tourists. We finished off our visit at the Food Trucks where after much deliberating, we shared a Smoked Salmon, Caper and Dill crepe and a spiced Tasmanian Apple crepe. Not too heavy - just right.

So needing to get some wares into a fridge, we then checked in to the Battery Point Manor for the next 3 nights. We have Room 5, a corner room with views out over Hobart and its Harbour. As soon as I can work out how to load the photos from the camera through the tablet, I'll add some photos.

The day was still fairly young so we took ourselves up to Kunanyi (Mt Wellington). It was a challenging drive for Gen who doesn't really have a head for heights. It is very steep in places and very winding with a number of hairpin bends on tight grades. It really was too bad that the drive took all her concentration as I would have loved her to really see the transitions in the forest, from dense sub-tropical rainforest to the open scherophyll forests to the edge of the tree line (marked by the inclusion of snow marker poles painted in fluoroscent orange) and finally near the top where she relaxed a little she commented on the lack of trees in the Alpine landscape with its wildly windswept stumpy bushy shrubs.

During the drive up, the most amazing thing was the smell of clean, crisp air. The scents reminded us of the woodwork at the markets - lots of pine and eucalypt and camphor. Certainly a very welcome way to clear our sinuses. At the top, we parked in well designated, clean parking areas and wandered all over the top. We kept to the boardwalks and paved paths, but many didn't. I swear that every international tourist in Australia at the moment was up on the mountain today - and a lot of domestic ones also - there were any number of Qld registered vehicles up there. We spent a few good hours learning more and taking photos of the stunning views across the whole of Hobart, out to the East Coast, down towards the Huon Valley and north into the Tamar Valley. You can literally see for hundreds of kms. It was windy and chilly - about 10 degrees cooler than in Hobart below, but. when you could find a spot out of the wind, the sun was fierce. 

Not sure whether I got a dose of sunburn, windburn or a damn good case of them both! Just before we left to come back down the mountain we watched a tanker/freighter pass under the Tasman Bridge - that was a sight we don't see much! And Gen went a long way to facing her fears, walking out along the windy boardwqalk to the cliff-edge lookout for some fabulous photos!

So by the time we get back into the City it is nearing 7 pm and we are thinking of dinner. Huh! Its a Saturday night and it seems Taswegians (what do you call the population of Hobart Robyn or Rod??) are party people! We try to get bookings at a number of restaurants but no luck, so we head back into Salamanca Place and in luck, get a parking space and head out on shanks pony to find a meal. End up at The Whaler (pub) - most obviously a popular local watering hole, but they had tables free inside. Limited choice, but the calamari was fresh and the chicken schnitty on par with most others.

So we are heading off to bed. Knackered. Today I have walked about 700m and Gen has pushed me in the wheelchair for an additional 2-3 kms up and down the markets, weaving in and out, backtracking to check this, taste that. We are both just a wee bit sore tonight!  We are planning on the Docks area of the City tomorrow followed by a trip to MONA, hoping to book dinner there tomorrow night.

Good night one and all. Its great to be back in the writing. A full moon shines over the water tonight and for those in the know - we are off to Jackman & McRoss for brekky!