A Tales of Castles and castes

We began the day nice and early - leaving Bucuresti at 6:30 am with the sunrise as we have a few kms to do and two of Romania's best castles to see.
It is amazing how many people are headed to work at this time.
We often ask people we meet in the tourism industry how many hours they work and the standard answer seems to be 16 hour days.  Guess that goes for more than just the tourism industry.

We head out of the city, dodging the trolley buses and the trams.  Hate driving along the tram lines - your tyres seem to have a mind of their own as they follow the rails!

We are headed to the north west slightly to visit first Peles Castle and then Bran Castle.  we know that the tourist buses leave Bucharest at 8 am to do the day trip, so we want to get there ahead of the hordes. And with the help of one of the main motorways we do.  Amazing to see the motorway without traffic - not like or run in the other day.
We arrive at Peles Castle parking area at 8:30 am, only to be told that the castle grounds open at 9 am and the castle itself opens at 11 am!  We drive up to the top parking area and ask the attendant how far to the castle. He smiles and says enigmatically "5".  Five what we don't know. We haven't actually seen the castle yet. So off we set. Up a 8% slope. Cobblestoned. 

Five? minutes?  Nope, that doesn't do it. Dear God, I hope it isn't 5 km up this blasted hill.  Coronaries averted, we finally view the castle, and the lower buildings - thank goodness, with a coffee shop. Make a bee-line for that and for an sweetened iced coffee to bolster the energy.   It now house residences, a hotel and a restaurant and coffee shop. 
It is actually 1 km up the hill, so to someone that works there, and who does the dash regularly, I suppose that 5 minutes might do it.  Not for me though - give me the flat walking anyday! That slope damn near killed me!

From here, I let Michael head up to have a look inside by himself - there is no way I could manage the stairs after that slope!

When I muse on 'castles' my mind manifests images of masonry, parapets, arrow loops, barbicans, hoardings, murder holes and garderobes. However, nothing could prepare me for the sight I was to behold as it appears more like an Baronial Manor or majestic hunting lodge. Of course, nothing could be further from the truth. No evidence of the Nosferatu.

Now should you, dear reader, decide to visit Romania and its castles a word.... Be prepared for a protracted wait in purchasing your entry tickets. The wait can be longer than the line!

Albeit, pay the additional ticket which enables you to take photographs. The wardens are vigilant when comes to pouncing on patrons who have not paid the 'photography tax'. I purchased mine which was worth the freedom.

As soon as you join your tour group and enter the castle, you shall find yourself entering another world. Due to time constraints, I had opted for the ground floor tour which in reality was enough.

The Peleș Castle was build 1873-1914 by King Carol 1 and occupied by himself and his wife Queen Elizabeth upon its completion. In 1872 the Crown had purchased 1500 hectares of land which the castle occupies. In 1873 construction commenced on building the castle.

In Peleș you will be transfixed by an era of opulence, flattery and obscene wealth. However, I was transfixed by the work of those artists and artisans past who had enhanced the castle with their mastery.

We were directed from the main lobby through the various rooms of state, reception, music, recital and many others. It is very surreal to digest the notion that people actually lived here! Exploring the grounds is a must as many of surrounding buildings were constructed at the same time as Peleș. 

We left Peles at 12:30 pm so that we could travel around to that other famous castle - 'Dracula's Castle - Bran Castle. A mere 48 kms away, the GPS is telling us it is 90+ minutes - with slower than usual traffic due to roadworks and congestion.  Turns out that we discover later that at the time of the year, Wednesday is the most popular day to visit the castles - go figure, we thought that we would be safer mid-week.

Soon enough we arrive in Bran - and if there were people in Peles, you can triple the figure here. Parking is a nightmare, and there is a climb up many steps to the castle itself. Still recovering from the climb a couple of hours ago, I send Michael up alone!  I mean, he can't come to Romania without seeing 'Dracula's Castle' - right?

Bran Castle is for more forbidding than Peleș. Being a medieval castle it displays those hallmarks of a fortress - a rabbit warren - albeit, one of the most beautiful castles in Romania. 

Situated on the border between Transylvania and Wallachia, Bran has no tangible correlation to Bram Stoker's fictional character - Dracula. However,the name 'Dracula' is derived from the surname of Vlad the Impaler's father, the Dracul, he was a member of the Dragon Order.

One has to navigate this wonderful building through halls, rooms, narrow passages and humanity. Gaining entry into the castle is just as daring. One passes 

through 'alleys' and purveyors of souvenir porn. Then you the end of the queue to purchase your entry into the castle.

It is truly a place to discover and appreciate the level of conservation undertaken to restore Bran into the jewel it is today.

By 4:15pm, I am messaging Michael to say that we need to get going.  We are booked in to an agrotourismo venue in Bogdana just outside Onesti tonight - half way to the painted monasteries that we intend to explore tomorrow - and it is a 3 hour drive away.  Well, it is only 169 kms, but if we have learned anything, it is to throw away any preconceived idea of how long it takes to travel between places in Romania -

what with the road conditions and local traffic, time loses meaning! And the Roma people are out in hordes at every lot of roadworks hawking fruit and bric-a-brac.  You have to hand it to them for their persistence.  We find that a closed window gives the clearest message.

As we travel though Busteni, we can see that this bustling town is part of the reason for delays - everyday life gets in the way of the tourist travelling through.  High above the town on the peaks of the Carpathians above the town, there is a huge cross. Hopefully not an omen.  And then it is on through Rasnov, a partner to Brasov with its cheeky Hollywood styled sign just below the citadel.  impossible to get a photo without the blasted power wires in the view.

We are the only ones here tonight at La Ferma Veche - on weekends it must pump - lots of sun lounges, a huge dining room and a large inflatable pool.

Our host speaks no English, and us very limited Romanian.  Pictures on the menu soon have us eating cevapi, fries and a small salad with dijon mustard - it does the trick!  I have the better part of half a bottle of local white - a little rough around the edges, but very drinkable as spritzers with sparkling water. Michael just has the water - poor him!

Drac Pack - Post for 12/08/17

We got moving reasonably early this morning, as today would be another road trip. So having had our breakfast which was a fine array, we packed the car said farewell to Brasov and head towards our destiny - Sighisoara and Vlad Tepes.

Before we go any further, let's set the record straight on this Vampire thing. Dracula that blood sucking fiend has nothing to do with Vlad Tepes, or Vlad with Drac. If there is any association at all, Dracula ate people whereas Vlad Tepes ate his dinner in the company of his enemies who were in the process of being impaled!

We head forth under a cloudless sky with a build up of thick haze. However, this doesn't thwart any keenness to photograph unsuspecting subjects. Passing through small hamlets and fields with colours resembling splinter camouflage. We come upon the occasional farmer with his dray, workers tending the fields and trucks carrying a kaleidoscope of timber. 

As we pass through the town of Saschiz Keisd we see two distinct styles of architecture. A medieval walled citadel perched on a high vantage point, and the other representing a more later age. Vacant, abandoned and available for rent! 
Hang about...what's this - a shepherd asleep on the job!

We finally arrive in Sighisoara. Now, here's a cool Vlad Canon fact. The name 'Sighisoara' was provided under a first document listing by that Wallachian warlord Vlad Dracul, Vlad Tepes' father. The Romans had referred to it as 'Castrum Sex' or Six-sided Fort.

After we've made our way to the Sighisoara Citadel, we're suddenly made aware of two possible issues: parking and walking. 

Alas, all is not lost as Maria's Parking Djin has guided us to a 
car full of visitors who are vacating their parking spot. Parked, now to purchase a parking billet which is obtained 
from a swarthy Romanian who arbitrarily informs me: "5 Lei all day!" Obviously, the parking ticket dispenser has had a fit?

Returning to Maria I inform her there may be a stiff walk up to enter the citadel. However, that would not be the case for as we neared the incline we noticed a community bus prepared to convey passengers into the citadel square at 3 Lei pp. Gladly, we flash the cash for a quick dash!

The Citadel is boiling with humanity, and it is a hot day. We have a bit of a wander and make our way to the Clock Tower. It's my turn to do be adventurous, so I pay the 6 Lei and begin the climb into the Clock Tower. 

The stairs are narrow and creak. The floorboards on all levels creak as well. The climb is fascinating and each level has a story to tell. I finally reach the hoardings at the towers peak, the view is just amazing.... There is even a reference to Sydney, Australia.

The day is getting on and upon returning to ground level, Maria and I go for a further wander through a couple of smaller museums.

Settling upon where to have lunch depended upon the availability of vacant tables. Fortunately, we came upon a small cafe which appeared to have just set up its tables. so, we sat down to pizza (me) and chicken (Maria).
Oh, during lunch we were entertained by a Ukulele band and a troupe of Morris Dancers. Now, both Maria and I are confident, 
if Mick were with us he would no doubt have joined the dancer 
with enthusiasm!  

 








With lunch and the entertainment over it was onto the next POI of the Citadel - 'The Church on the Hill'.

The only way to access the church is via an upward direction and by foot. Access is possible by climbing the 'Scholars Staircase' which is a covered flight of stairs, some 400m in length. I climbed those stairs 
which was worth the effort. 

Fortunately, the church was open as was the crypt 
and photographs were permitted. I won't bore you 
with unnecessary specs and stats - but, should you
journey into Romania ensure 'The Church on the Hill' is part of your itinerary. Here are a few pics.

I finish with the 'The Church on the Hill', its cemetery and return to Maria. Here we say farewell to Vlad and his cohorts and catch the bus to the base of the hill and head on towards our next destination - Sibiu. 

Now as a prelude, Sibiu is regarded as being Romania's most important cultural centre and designated as being the European Capital of Culture in 2007.

Albeit, the drive to Sibiu is uneventful. Apart from stopping by a LIDL store to stock up on water and other essentials. Waiting at a level crossing for an age waiting for a coal train       to pass through. 

   Finally, we arrive at Sibiu and our hotel, the Hotel Parc, which    is very nicely appointed. However, this hotel does not provide      dinner which requires us to seek alternatives. We eventually      settle on having dinner at a Best Western Hotel restaurant,        and we are not disappointed.

               Michael: Entree -  Bruschetta
                            Mains -   Pan fried Sea Bass, broccoli,                                                     Duchess potato and orange jus.
                                      Maria:    Entree -  Bruschetta
                                                   Mains  -  Chicken