Brighton, The Battle and Dover Castle

We set out from our luxury penthouse this morning refreshed and feeling at ease with our plans for the coming three weeks. We didn't do a great deal while at Southampton and saw not very much of the City, but we needed the break! But we have booked our accommodation through to the 5th July at which time we will leave France for points further east.

So, I program Kate to Dover via Brighton and at 10 am we hand back the keys and set out. The weather is superb - a warm 20 C. Knowing that we have a bit of ground to cover, and that we want to make a few stops, I have chosen the fastest route. Funnily we head through Portsmouth and then north to within 15 miles of London before heading again east and south. But it only takes us a total of 2.5 hours travelling to get to Dover via the motorways. I had programmed Kate to take us to Dover through Brighton and so when we got to Brighton, she began giving us weird directions, until I realised that we had not programmed her right to the Brighton Pier, and so once she had delivered us to Brighton, being the super-efficient little thing that she is, she had moved on straight away to the next instruction - and Dover! So we actually turned her off and horror of horrors - followed the street signs to the Pier!!

Brighton Pier and Kingsway (the road that follows the seashore) are reminiscent of our time in Blackpool - albeit a much more refined model with more up market property facing the sea complete with period pieces full of iron lace balconies - Edwardian more than anything else. And much of it is coloured a beautifully rich honey yellow that must be magical in the setting sun. Thanks to the parking fairy, we find a parking space on the beachfront and make a stop for coffee, to sit in the sun for a little while and to admire the views of the steel skeleton of the old Pier and the fun park on the new Brighton Pier and the English Channel. And we now know why the Brits hate getting sand betweeen their toes - just have a gander at their pebble beaches!

But we need to keep moving, wanting to see Dover Castle and the War tunnels before we head to our accommodation at The Ship Inn in Sandgate. But whats this? The Battle of Britain Memorial! As we draw close to Dover, we see a sign pointing to an exit for amongst other things, The National Battle of Britain Memorial. Then we remember seeing this when we arrived back in the UK in February, so it is a gotta see before we leave again. It is only a couple of kms off the motorway. We turn off (much to Kate's consternation) and find it quite easily. This memorial, kept in beautiful condition is actually being mowed while we are there. It is built with a sculptured flier sitting, gazing pensively out to sea in the centre point of three white propellers set into a grassed bowl and surrounded by a number of mounds, as well as a memorial wall and a number of commentary plaques. Oh, and by the way, there is a Hawker Hurricane replica and a Supermarine Spitfire replica tethered, straining at their restraints, ready to take flight again, just outside the visitor centre. Oh, Michael is nearly peeing himself!!

The aeroplanes may very well be replicas, but it adds to the overall presence of the memorial. The memorial is quite sombre and moving, as the names on the commemorative wall makes the conflict more real than surreal. The display boards which outline the course of the Battle confirms those challenges which faced 'The Few'.

From here we depart for Dover Castle just shy of 3 pm. That is not a real problem though as it is open until 6 pm at this time of the year. The site is huge and we are advised that the Keep is to open to the public at the present as they are changing the exhibits. Still, that leaves plenty to see. Michael heads off to see the Secret Wartime Tunnels whilst I take a gander at the Bailey and the Barbican of the Castle and visit the Queen's Regiment and the Princess of Wales' Regiment Museum. A fascinating history of the royal regiments and their battle conflicts.

The War Tunnels is an interesting wander through time, and not necessarily for the structures purpose. It is an engineering feat, considering the tunnel system is built into pure chalk. Constructed during the Napoleonic War for the purpose of billeting Royal Marines, who meet the expected invasion forces of the French. Abandoned for two centuries, the tunnels were once again occupied during the First World War as a coastal observation post and a magazine for storing ammunition and ordinance for the front lines.

With the defeat and routing of the British Expeditionary Forces on French soil in 1939, the tunnel system was once again utilised as the nerve centre for the evacuation of these very forces from Dunkirk. The architect for this remarkable ploy was Admiral Bertram Ramsey who orchestrated operation from within the tunnel system under secrecy.

After World War Two, the tunnel system was once again abandoned and all of the infrastructure removed. Prior to the tunnel system being open to the public, some of the ante-rooms had been restored with equipment from the era. These include, the Map Room, the Underground Hospital, kitchen, barrack rooms. The tour is also supported by archive newsreels, audio and visual displays adding realism to the visit. Regrettably, photography was forbidden due to reasons of 'security', so I am unable to provide you with images to show this remarkable piece of engineering.

We get away from Dover just after 5:30 pm and en-route pass a sign to the Samphire Hoe. Now, given the fantastic views we got from the Hoe at Plymouth, we feel that it is something to at least have a look at - and we are not disappointed. After passing through a tunnel angled on a 20% slope (down) we come out to find ourselves in a sheltered area at the base of the White Cliffs of Dover with the sea wall a mere 150 m below us. Whoo hoo. Out to sea there are 14 tankers, ferries and cruise ships plus one lone navy vessel - too far out for us to determine exactly what. And just like the Portsmouth Hoe, this one too commands great views with the white cliffs of France to be seen with the binoculars that Tracey gave us as a departure gift.

Over to Folkestone and our accommodation at the Ship Inn on the beach at Sandgate. Wendy, our hostess, explains that there is only street parking and is thrilled when we again find one just 50 metres down the road (who the hell wants to win the lottery, when we can instead always have a parking space!). Our room is in their guest house directly behind the pub - Parade Cottage. We are on the first floor and have the most wonderful view out across the ocean - ah sleeping like a babe tonight methinks to the sound of the waves rolling on to the shore just a stone's throw across the lane and narrow beach. Very nice. Down to the pub for dinner tonight and our last English pub meal. Michael has a Steak and Ale Pie while I choose Salmon Cakes, chips and salad. All home-made. All fabulous. If only their was smll-a-vision or taste-a-vision so you can share in just how good it is! I wash it down with a pint of their own (8%) Biddenden Cider - very nice - smooth like Bulmers and not as harsh as Strongbow.

To top it off, we are here on the night that publican Stewart (husband to Wendy) runs his weekly quiz night. We have just finished dinner as it due to start and after Stewart gives us a potted (hic) history of the pub, Sandgate and the general area with its involvement in WWII, how can we resist the challenge to compete. So we sign up with Colin, Marcus, Chris, Mark, Stephen and a Canadian couple also staying here to battle wits with Stewart. I must tell you, he did try to be a little fair and threw in a couple of Australian and Canadian questions as well - but it was not to be our night, coming in a healthy third with questions as obscure as: What is the start of the Grouse hunting season? (A: August 21) and Name all members of the Famous Five? (A: Georgina, Ann, Peter, Julian and Timothy the dog). Still, we gave a good account of ourselves!!

Finally we get back to the room and the blog after 11 pm, only to discover that Antony, Amanda and Izabella have arrived at home and so we spend a half an hour or so Skyping them. We also learn that Mum's (Netta) dog has had to be put down and that Robert has had a triple bypass and she is staying with Maria. No wonder we are having trouble contacting her.

The Sandringhham in the Solvent at Southampton

Today is another lazy day to recharge our batteries. It's just so nice to stop, reflect and just enjoy some quiet time. However, Michael decides to visit the Solent Sky Aviation Museum, here in Southampton, which is conveniently just around the corner.

I had gone around to the museum yesterday, which was regrettably closed and would reopen Sunday at midday. However, I peered through the front glass doors and within the dimness of the interior I made out the profile of the hull of a flyingboat - a large flyingboat! Now, the information board at the museum's entry door explained the museum is dedicated to RJ Mitchell, the designer of the now infamous Supermarine Spitfire. This flyingboat appeared too large for either of the flyingboats designed by Mitchell - the Stranraer and the Walrus? I would just have to be patient!

On arriving at the museum today it was obvious it was being well patronised. The building is not large by aircraft museum standards, although I had a feeling I was not going to be disappointed. As I greeted the fellow at the reception and paid my entry fee, he said; "Ah, you're from Australia; so, you've come to see your aeroplane?" Driven by my puzzled expression, the fellow motioned for me to look around the partition.

I felt as though I had been thrown back through time, for there before me was this magnificent Sandringham flyingboat. Why thrown back in time? Well, the aeroplane was in its original livery of the Ansett Flying Boat Service. Whether it was this particular 'boat or one of it's sisters, my brother and I would watch these graceful craft being piloted from Rose Bay in Sydney and take off from Sydney Harbour! The last of Ansett's Sandringham's service ended in 1967, and on that day my family and I went into Sydney and caught the Manly Ferry hoping to witness the end of an era.

We weren't disappointed (...well, not the least my brother and I) and as we were on the ferry, the pilot vessel marshaling the flyingboat sounded its siren in warning. All the vessels on the harbour stopped, the four engines of the Sandringham opened up and we watched the last flight take to the air. Maybe this was a fortuitous day for us, not only did we see the last flight but the 'boat passed over our ferry! What a sound - just reminiscing this experience gives me goosebumps! As the 'boat flew overhead, the reverberation from its four radial piston engines set all the windows vibrating!

Anyhow, that was then and we are in the now...well, almost. The fellow whom I had paid my fee too, and who also discerned my excitement, is also the curator. He explained to me the museum is indeed dedicated to RJ Mitchell, however the museum has attempted to provide a snapshot on the history of aviation. Upon his suggestion, I commenced my investigation with the display to Mitchell.

The display to RJ Mitchell comprises of a Supermarine Spitfire Mk.XXIV (I began to experience violent shivers..) and a Supermarine S.6 speed racer (...tremors at this point) which won the Schneider Trophy for the United Kingdom in 1931 at Calshot Spit, here in Southampton. A life size wooden sculpture of Mitchell is at the display's centre, and a quarter scale model of the Spitfire's prototype - the K5054. Proudly displayed behind glass is a Battle of Britain Memorial lace presented to the museum by the IWM. (I returned to this display several times.)

Moving from RJ Mitchell and onto the flyingboat, I had to get this out of my system...well, temporarily. Fortunately for visitors to this museum, access is made available to sit in some of the aeroplane cockpits, and it is quite a hands-on museum. As for the Sandringham, access was only permitted within the hull - the flight deck was forbidden. (The Spitfire was definitely a no-go-zone!) At this point, just to stand-up-close-and-personal to any of the exhibits (especially the Sandringham) would have been enough for me. However, to actually enter the passenger saloons and sit in the plush chairs was a privilege. Passengers certainly travelled in style, the flyingboats may have been slower than their modern cousins but at the advantage of leg room, room to move and comfortable seating.

After taking many photos of the flyingboat's interior, I made my way down the gangway where I was met by the curator. Greeting me with a broad smile, he said: "Are you ready to see the flight deck of your aeroplane?" My only reply to him was: "Is the Pope a Catholic?"

Now gaining access into the flyingboat's flight deck is a feat. I can now appreciate the difficulty John Glenn had in climbing into his capsule, Friendship 7, through the small access panel. One has to climb a narrow ladder directly below the pilots cockpit, then lean forward as you slip through the 1 metre by half metre aperture leading into the flight deck. Scoff if you will, but I felt as though I had entered a sacred place...

For the flyingboat's size, the flight deck is rather small; considering it was required to accommodate the pilot and second officer, radio operator, navigator and flight engineer. I was ushered into the first officer's seat, which took me all of my resolve not become a drivelling mess. My host sat in the second officer's seat whereby he explained the controls and handling qualities of the type. After various questions and concise answers, I was given a history of this flyingboat.

This flyingboat was built in Belfast, 1943, at the Short Brother's works. It was originally built as a Short Sunderland flyingboat for the RAF Maritime Patrol. (As I am typing this, an air-raid siren is beginning to sound from the docks area, and as it reaches its crescendo Maria and I look at each other...) After seeing service with the RAF, it was sold privately to Charles F Blair Jnr the husband to actress Maureen O'Hara. Blair was a transatlantic pioneer who at one time was the Chief Pilot to Pan Am. My host directs my attention to a seat on the flight deck which is very much out of place. This particular seat is directly behind the first pilot and in front of the radio operator's position. This seat, my host explains, was especially (...the 'all-clear' siren has just sounded....this absolutely true!) installed for Maureen O'Hara who preferred the confines of the flight deck! My host also indicates to the cup holder especially fitted for O'Hara for her Gin and Tonic and a specially installed ashtray!

Ansett gained ownership of the flyingboat as part of its 'Flying Boat Fleet'. After modifications it was converted into the 'Sandringham' passenger flyingboat, and eventually moored at the ex-Catalina Flyingboat Base at Rose Bay, Sydney, New South Wales. As for Ansett and its Flying Boat Fleet and this Sandringham...as they say, the rest is history.

The remainder of the exhibits in the museum are absolute gems, and some extremely rare indeed. This includes the sole surviving example of a Saunders Roe SRA1 the only British flyingboat jet fighter. I could go into further detail as to the exhibits of this museum, however, I suggest you follow the link. Should you ever visit Southampton, you should make this museum a must see on your itinerary (whether you're into aviation or not).

An SOS of sorts

Save our Souls? Nah, more like Shaping our Sojourn! We are using these few days in Southampton to take a pause in our sightseeing and re-gather our energies. We are also planning the next leg of our journey as we are now entering the tourist high season in Europe and will have to book our accommodation ahead for a while.

The apartment is wonderful - Michael was able to sit up very late and chat with Judith and Gordon back home on Skype while I hit the land of nodzzzzzz! I can sleep anywhere, most times, but at least this time, he did not feel the need to turn the sound on the TV or the computer down!

And the SOS bit? Well, the RMS Titanic set out her ill-fated maiden voyage from Southampton before picking up more passengers in Cherbourg (France) and Cobh (then known as Queenstown, Ireland). There were 943 passengers who joined in Southampton. Our apartment in the South Western Hotel building is certainly befitting of the calibre of first class passengers - many of whom may have stayed right in this building. Last night the horns of another ship belted out to sea in two repeats of three looong hoots before it sailed out around 10 pm.
We look out of one of the bedroom windows right down the docks where there is a liner berthed taking on its passengers for another voyage. It is the Queen Mary II! She sailed out this afternoon to two shorter toots from her horn. Rather dignified old boy.
And guess what? Tomorrow the Norwegian Jade sails out of Southampton - we saw her before in dock in Madrid when we did a harbour cruise!!! Cool, very cool!!!

Today is very lazy , although we have planned a route through to the end of the month through France and made accommodation bookings most of the way.
We thought that you might like to see some photos of this amazing building, so here they are.

Tonight we throw caution to the wind and go to the movies to see The Hangover. This is a spoof all around a buck's night in Las Vegas. Quite hilarious but stupid! James would just love it (does that tell you what it was like?!)