Where the mountains are high and the fjords plunge deep

As we left Bergen last night, the Captain explained in laboured English that during the night we would be calling in to the Port of Florø at 03:30 departing again at 03:40 at which time the ship's horn would sound three times. We were not to be alarmed and this would not be the emergency horn.

Horn?? what horn? Both Donna and I slept right through it as I suspect almost all the other passengers did also. We are marvelling at the lack of noise transference into the cabins - they are all well noise-insulated.

We went up for breakfast at about 8:30 am as our excursion is not until 14:00 this afternoon. A full smorgasbord is available - cereals, breads, hot food, cold food, fruits, juices, teas and coffees.  We noticed yesterday that it can become a little like pigs at the trough, so we were happy to have a later breakfast today and went up about 9 am.  Breakfast is served until 10 am.

Today is a bucket list day.  You know the photo that is iconic Norwegian fjordland on all the postcards and travel blogs that you see?  Well, today that is where we are going. 

The cruise ships cruises the length of the Geirangerfjord.  The scenery is magical - towering cliffs that plunge into the water below.  Moraine slopes, saddles, faulted and folded mountains, ice and snow caps, single farms and tiny settlements clinging to small areas of grasslands.  We ask ourselves how you could get there with all your belongings, and what would make people want to live in such isolation - it is amazing!  We pass the famous Seven Sisters Falls, but today only four are at home (falling).  We can only imagine this cascade in full flow!

We dock in Geiranger just before 2pm.  This is a village in western Norway, at the head of the beautiful Geirangerfjord with 240 permanent residents. In the summer months, up to 6 cruise liners dock here bring up to 10,000 PER DAY to visit.
We leave the ship at at 2pm. Buses are waiting to collect us - too bad that they didn't warn us that it is a mad 400 metre dash in the drizzle. There are three buses waiting - one for the English/Norwegian, one for the German/French and the last for French language groups - goes to show you how many french people are on this cruise.
 

We are exploring the Geirangerfjord and Trollstigen Route - 'the Trolls Route' one of Norway's national tourist routes and on to Molde where we again join the ship at 11:15 pm.  For those who followed our blog in Romania, this is the equivalent of the Transfagarasan Pass. There are 11 switchback hairpin bends. More about that later. We drive up out of Geiranger and look back over the village to see our ship already sailing out and two of the other three docked in view at the head of the fjord.  While the views from down within the fjord are stunning, You really can't appreciate it fully until you are above it, looking down the length.

The scenery is stunning, wondrous even. None of these photos can really do it justice. We travel for a hour and can count 7 or 8 ranges in the distance, towering over us, big sky sort of scenery.  Each time there is a photo opportunity, this is what you see!

Then we turn a bend and we are near the top of the peak, above the treeline and with lakes and tumbling streams with water so clear we can see the stones at the bottom.  Walking trails abound, little cabins where I guess people shelter in bad weather.  Many of the cabins have grassed roofs, some planted, most wild! 
The snow poles can be as high as 8 metres - thats what you call snowfall!

We see more of the same, not same scenery.  I think that the blog would crash if I tried to load too many more photos!  There was four hours of driving through this scenery and we never bored of the changing views. One minute we were in drizzle, then sunshine and again into rain. This region is also a big cropping area for Norway, growing apples and pears, the best strawberries and raspberries (supposedly) as well as heaps of other berries.  There was evidence of recent grass cutting for winter hay also.


There is a ferry crossing at a quaint little village - and another to come later tonight as we near Molde. Finally we reach Trollstigen, 'the Trolls Road', the only permanent road in to Geiranger. 
There is another road but it is closed from November to May each year.  Even this road can be treacherous! 

There is a lookout above the road and we pulled in to the rest/tourist area at Stigrøra, 858 metres above sea level, to allow people off to take photos.  The road twists through eleven hairpin bends and an impressive bridge carries the road across the Stigfossen waterfall. The road is carved into the mountain and supported by stone walls. The walk out to the lookout is made of steel for the first 150m or so, and is quite slippery, so I don't venture out, but Donna did and she brought back some stunning

photos.  From here, we drive down those 11 hairpins. There is a woman sitting, window side who is terrified of the steep turns and the precipitous drops. Her 'friends' kept making comments about it.  Really?  Grow up (and these were Aussies). Still, if she had any sense, she would have moved to an inside seat and given up the window - there were plenty of seats free, so it wasn't like there was a reason to hog the window.

When we reach the bottom of the Trollstigen,we have a coffee break and served lovely fresh open rolls with cheese, tomato and cucumber or cheese and meat and cream filled folded waffles that are soooo good. One of those people near us on the bus is complaining about this dinner and is horrified to be told that this is a coffee break (it is after 6 pm by now) and that dinner will be served in Molde at 9:30 pm. I think that they are normally in bed by then!  We ate quickly so we could escape outside and get some photos of the plentiful trolls. Donna even found a friend!!

From here, we are back on the bus and headed toward Molde. We are now in hunting lands and there could be no doubt given the deer heads on one of the local buildings - I only managed to get half of them in the shot as we drove by.

Another ferry crossing (cheaper than bridges) and a few more hours of jaw breaking scenery and we reach the end of our day tour in Molde, Norway's town of roses.

We are booked in for a cod dinner served on a bed of mashed potato with julienned vegetables and a sweet apple, cream and cinnamon crumble for dessert. It was a delicious way to end a stunning day.  The Kong Harald pulls in at 10:45 pm and departs at 11:15. It was too late to blog last night!

The day's forecast depends on which window you look out of

The skies are clear! Hallelujah!

Here at The Nook at Arthur's Pass, what you can expect from the day very much depends 

on which window you first look from. From the bed, a small window high in the wall offers an enticing view of snow capped peaks dazzling in the early morning light.  On the other hand, the view from the bathroom, while just as lovely, brings clouds slipping down the mountainside towards the stream that bubbles along behind the railway line. Until last night, that rail line was closed due to the cyclone, so overnight a number of freight trains crept through town, trying to make up lost time. Today the Alpine Express, the tourist train from Christchurch, recommences.  Not sure that I would want to bathe outside - although you are screened from the direct view of the road and rail below, I still think that I would be a nervous nellie!

Spent about 45 minutes searching for accommodation for tonight - finally settled on an Airbnb listing in Whataroa about 3 hours away. We set out right on 9 am.

Down to the National Parks Visitor Centre just down the road where we get the low down on the walks through the Arthur's Pass National Park.  One of the walk sections is closed after a metre of snow fell at the beginning of the week, coupled with rain and wind from the cyclone has caused a slip along the path.

Michael sets off to do the Devil's Punchbowl walk to the falls.  Gentle slope but a lot of stairs. Supposedly a 30 minute return walk.  He make it back just inside the hour.  He can't believe the number of Koreans and Chinese walking the path.  Of course, it is Chinese New Year, so they are here on holiday!

The next stage of the walk is the actual Arthur's Pass Walk and from the carpark where he leaves me, it is about 1.5 hours walk one way  to Jack's Hut a little higher up the mountain.  Thank goodness I didn't wait the 1.5 hours to drive up there.  Within 45 minutes of leaving the bottom, he is at the Hut car park!

The walk passes through a range of forest types with remnant antarctic beech forests that are heavily laden with mosses, to the start of the fir forests to dry scherophyll forests and even to the pampas grasses.  Once Michael arrives back to me he is filled with stories of the vistas and the snow capped peaks that are close even to touch.  The air is filled with a thousand new smells - many of them as old as the trees - literally. There is that wonderful earthy, truffley smell that is just so enticing!

From Jack's Hut we continue up and over the Pass, pausing to take a look at the Obelisk to Arthur Dobson - one of the two brothers who pioneered this country.  And then it is on to the Otira Viaduct which was completed in 1999 following the crash of a bus and the death of a child while travelling the switchbacks down the mountain.  Leading in to the bridge and to the south of it, the road is a very decent 16% slope - so it is down to second gear behind a cattle truck.

Once we are 'over the top', the vegetation changes quite dramatically - and quite quickly.  The more regular and heavier rainfall to the west of the mountains means that the forests are denser with more firs and eucalpyts and lots and lots of ferns including large, lush tree ferns and may that we have never seen.  It amazes me that whole walls of ferns grow up the cliff faces above vehicle height, and yet at car or truck height, where they would be brushed against all the time, there are the smallest of petite little varieties that hug the cliff face away from the danger of being scraped off!

We head for Hokitaki, pausing at an interesting homage to bridges in NZ and part of the first Arahura Bridge.  Of course Michael is thrilled that he can again see those snow capped peaks!

We finally arrive in Hokitaki quite famished about 3:10 pm.  We head straight for a bank as NZ eftpos points do not like our Australia debit card!  Then just a few shops away we spy the Stone Oven Bakery and Cafe.  Man o man were we in for a treat.  Their sign says that they specialise in Butter Chicken Pies.  And they were right. Those pies were some of the best that we have ever tasted and the coffee was strong and hot. 

We needed fuel and almost had a coronary when we saw how much the price of fuel is here - it might explain the number of cyclists that we are seeing - making fun of them as they climb crazy slopes!  And yes, the photo is not a mistake, it DOES say $2.07 per litre. And of course the hire car company insists on us using U95 which is $2.23 litre.

There is nothing worse than not having a water supply in the car, so we stock up with water, fruit and crackers at the local supermarket - again, can't believe the cost of living.

Hokitaki is right on the ocean so a quick trip to the beach and we see lots of driftwood piled high with local artists making the most of the ready resource.  Quirky and fun.  A stop at the local Greenstone store and a stone painter is also in order before we again turn the car south to head for Whataroa where we are staying in an Airbnb with Joan.  

She cautions us that there are not too many places for a meal here, and suggests that we eat before we get here.  But with those scrummy pies not long eaten, we take a chance on finding something open.  

Luckily the Whataroa Pub is still open and cooking.  We feast on freshly battered Gurnard with chips and salad.  SO good.  Finally at Joans with Roger the Poodle and Sumi the cat.  Just like being at home!

The Transfagarasan Road - a huge heart in my throat kind of day - for all sorts of reasons.

We had arrived at the Complex Europa Transfagarasanwith the intention of driving the Transfagarasan Road down to Bucharest.  This is the road that Top Gear has stated as the world's best road to drive!

We arrived late on Sunday with the sun behind us from another warm summer's day and with clouds rolling in over the Carpathian Mountains.  There is a little stream trickling along behind our hostel styled accommodation where we actually have a two bedroom 'suite'.
Just as I finished uploading the blog last night, the storm that had been thundering down the mountains hit.  Had to find the wet weather jacket just to get to dinner!
The Hotel is full and as we sit having dinner they turned away no less than eight groups of people who seek solace from the rain and turn up on speck. No Joseph, there is no room at this inn - try down the road 4 kms!

Dinner was an interesting affair. Nothing fancy, nothing flash. Just down to earth good traditional food. We began with soup - tripe (shudder) for Michael and Vegetable for me (and Michael!). We both had pork - Michael's a flattened grilled rib steak and mine Schnitzeled - both with mashed potato.

An hour later we return to our room in the top of the cabin to find that babbling brook has risen two feet and become a boiling angry raging monster! You would not believe how much it has changed. And by the morning, it had lost its anger and was again, a happy little tumbling stream. How quickly things change in the mountains.

Despite the rain stopping, the clouds hang low over the Carpathians this morning, with the mist so heavy that it might as well have been raining. Its in this weather that we head up the most spectacular drive in Europe, if not the world. We share the road with crazy cyclists (what is it about riding up ridiculously steep slopes??), lots of motorbikes and plenty of cars.

Warnings abound about falling rocks, rough surfaces and accident zones. The speed limit on the Transfagarasan is 40 kpm and I wonder how many people stick to that?

We leave with 240 kms worth of fuel to travel 97 kms from near Cartisoara in the north to Curtea des Arges in the south. And there is a reason I tell you this now!

Its such a pity that the fog and mist are so heavy - for much of the trip, we look out into white as we crawl our way up the mountain in traffic. 40 kph is barely  doable - if not for the traffic, then for the condition of the road - can't say we weren't warned! We pass through a series of snow tunnels - not sure why they would bother with them as the road is closed in the winter - in fact it is usually open for only a few months a year - which might explain the intense interest at this time of the year!

After about an hour, we reach the access point to the first of two glacial lakes - the Cascade Lake, an the inevitable souvenir and refuelling stop. Amazing here is the cured meats hanging in the open, the cheeses, potatoes and corn roasting in coals and the bric-a-brac that people seem to want to collect.  Michael takes off to walk to the lake, but returns when he sees the condition of the cascade crossings - can't say I blame him!

Parking is haphazard and anywhere you can squeeze in. Some people - especially those in expensive cars - porsche, audi, bmw, mercedes - seem to give little regard for their cars or for the safety of passing motorists - they just nose in, leaving their rears exposed to being hit, so long as they can park close to where they want to be!

So up again we head. We get the very occasional glimpse of the road above us as we twist and turn through hairpin after hairpin after hairpin. The switchbacks are so close that often, the cars on the next stretch are literally right above us.

Despite the weather still being very close, there are a number of people heading off to walk in the mountains. They are certainly very awe-inspiring and evocative.

The road continues to challenge - it is quite tiring driving it.  Safety rails are not in all places, not a problem given that we are averaging well less than the stipulated 40 kph - in some places we are down to 20! And after about another hour or travel, we reach the peak and the site of the Blue Lake - not a hope of stopping here - the parking is even worse, and the local Police are on hand milking the cash cow that are parking infringers! They must make a financial killing for the few months that the road is open. Once we pass the peak, we get our first glimpse of the famous road switches as we look over towards the southern road. O.M.G. how stunning is this - too bad the day is not clear and sunny - the view must be absolutely jaw-dropping!
Now, I have been watching the fuel gauge with interest and a wee bit of concern. We have reached the top with now just over 100 kms worth of fuel left. Much of the ascent has been in 2nd gear, albeit not very fast.

The views are stunning - there is something about being in high mountains and looking down on the work of mother nature - something that you just can't fathom.  Locals and tourists seem to appreciate it as there are plenty (and I mean plenty) of people out read to take serious walks in this mountainous terrain.  We pass the Mountain Rescue base, complete with Fire Brigade, Ambulance and rescue vehicles and I just wonder how often they are called to the rescue of some foolhardy person/s who have misjudged the conditions, their preparedness or the gravity of their jaunt!


Life goes on pretty much as normal here on the southern side. A flock of sheep grazes on the side of the road with a foolhardy few dashing to greener pasture on the other side of the road, leaving motorists to brake even more suddenly.  A group of bikers conglomerate at the base of one of the climbs - of course, the road speed limit doesn't apply to them as they defy gravity on some of the corners - today they can have it - does not appeal to me one little bit in this weather!

And we are heading down down down - with me coasting where I can - my trip meter is no longer telling me how much fuel I have left, and the fuel light has come on.  Tell Michael who says "Oh well, not much we can do about it". F***, me, I'm starting to quietly panic.

Still we press on - there are not so many uphills now (which is good, given our circumstances) and I watch the road markers that we pass every km with hope and dread - we are still a lot further from Curtea des Arges than I am comfortable with.

The road continues to twist and turn, travelling alongside the Arges River as it works its way to Lake Vidrarul - a man made dam that feeds a hydro electric scheme. The road crosses at the dam wall and again, the police have their hands full trying to keep the traffic moving, and those blastered parkers off the roadside.

Still travelling close to empty, but as the last reading was at 80km of fuel, and we had less than that to reach the southern destination, I am hopeful that we will get there.  We pass a number of small hamlets and tourist resorts, though none with fuel. Finally we come in to Căpățânenii Pământeni and lo and behold - there is a serv

ice station - doing a very brisk trade. Whew. We have never been so pleased to see a dirty, grungy little establishment!!!!  The lack of care when it comes to disposing of rubbish is disheartening - people just throw their litter from cars and abandon water bottles and trash wherever they are. Roadside stops are always filled with overflowing bins and heaps of rubbish piled beside them. It is such a pity in such pristine conditions.

So we reach Curtea des Arges and make the turn for Bucharest. Pears, garlic and tomato sellers line the road, the farmers are busy on their drays and they hay is in the barns drying out.

The main national freeway cuts in from here and today, I am happy to take it, getting up to speeds of 130 kph to make up for the almost 5 hours it took to travel the first 90 kms today. We are a little over an hour for the capital and I can't wait to get there.

We enter into Bucuresti proper, and with it, into the traffic chaos that is a capital city. Horns, sirens and screeching, along with trams and trolley buses and those infernal tram lines to cross and travel along. We arrive at the location of the office of the Bucharest Apartments, but can't see it straight away, so I slip into a side street, park illegally as Michael makes a phone call (on international roam) to the office. We are literally just around the corner and Marcus eventually comes down to find us - Michael gets out to meet him as he is having trouble seeing us.

Finally he returns to the car - the apartment is just behind us, parking at the rear. Old he says, but clean enough and literally a 10 minute walk in to the Old Town. Marcus told him we have the perfect location - turn left at the intersection for the new town, turn right for the old town!

 Yes, the exterior of the block is something from the communist era, but inside we are comfortable. There is a washing machine too - so we pt everything through a wash. A pizza store provided dinner and a patisserie downstairs gives coffee and pastries for later.

We manage to make contact with Diana - Lorena has been holidaying in Greece and we plan to meet for dinner tomorrow night. Hopefully Lorena will be back in time to join us.

I'm off to bed after a very full, eventful and exhausting drive today.  See you on the morrow!