When luxury is not is cracked up to be

Happy birthday for me. The last two years has certainly taught me to appreciate every day I get on this side of the ground.

Our villa (no longer calling this one a cabin!) is luxe all the way.
The bed is high with a mattress that is about 50cm high. I have to do a little hop to get up on it! Gen had put the electric blanket on for me we first got in last night, so despite the wind that we can hear swirling gently around outside, we are toasty warm.

Turns out that we are probably a little too warm. We got into bed, and within minutes I am asleep. Gen too slept well initially, but woke at 4:30am, and was unable to get back to sleep. She thought it might have been because of my snoring! Moi? Surely not! We know that this is a rare occcurrence, but whatever, she couldn't get back to sleep. Just inside the door to the Villa is a long bench with a cushion running its length. I told Gen that I would happily sleep there, but she wouldn't hear of it. Instead, this was where she took herself, a couple of pillows and the most exquisite cable-knitted blanket (it is too large to call a throw). Looking into the black expanse of the night outside, she says that she could see darker splotches, so pointing her phone she captured pictures of 5 Pademelons within touching distance of the villa! She sleeps for another 3-4 hours here. I guess we are just not used to luxury!

This morning we are off back over to Adventure Bay to take one of the Pennicott Widerness Cruises - a 3 hour sojourn into the waters off the Island. The jetty is right at one end of the main road network. We drive through sleepy little hamlets full of little tin and timber shanties and 1950/60s beach holiday houses that are slowly being crowded out by the brash newcomers with their endless sheets of glass and timber. Sadly we count 7  animals newly deceased as roadkill. We have been warned by all the locals of the dangers of driving between dusk and dawn and on our way home from the supermarket yesterday afternoon we carefully watched three pademelons and a wallaby hesitate and then jump back into the bush.  

Even now, well into autumn, there are enough people booked for this cruise that two boats are taken out. Our deckhands are Dean and Ben. They are confident and very able, checking on everyone, all belted in, caped up and had their 2 ginger tablets - swallow with water, not chew they are trying to instruct an Indian family. Charades works all over the world! We begin our journey with a bit of drama - the Indian older man (grandpa) slipped between the jetty and the boat - lightning fast reflexes saw Dean and Ben grab him, but they were obviously shaken and almost had him undressed to make sure he was not injured. After a few minutes of checks, they again checked everyone else and then we drew slowly away from the jetty - as though letting the apron strings slowly out. The the full force of the three massive engines were unleashed and nose up, we sped out into the Bay. The two boats weave in and out up and over each others wakes and its not too long before the dolphins arrive to play in the waters. Obviously the cruise operators and these wild animals are well-known to each other. The engines are cut and passengers race for the optimum spots to capture photos and videos. Dean explains that with smartphones, the best way to capture footage is with video and then take screenshots for particular photos you want. Most of us are clueless, but he came to the rescue explaining how to do this for Android and iPhones! Ah, to be young again and able to keep up with the constant changes in technology!

Finally with the fill of dolphins, we resume our seats and buckle up again. Ben and Dean are quite the team, very relaxed, treading the boards constantly chatting to the passengers, sharing stories and groan-worthy dad jokes! They explain that we will be hugging the coast on the trip out, and will journey back in the open waters. Dean in particular is a wealth of knowledge and stories. A lifetime local, it is very obvious that he is passionate about this environment and enjoys sharing it with others. He explains that here at the northern end of Adventure Bay we are travelling passed Jurassic period basalts that are 'breathing' rocks reflecting the motion of the ocean. Over the millenia since they were thrust up through the earth, the rocks have been continuously pounded by the relentless sea, slowly but ever so indeterminably worn away. Caves are worn into the occasional softer striations- initially just small openings growing eventually into larger, deeper or taller openings. 

We move in closer, watching the swell work its magic, rolling with that swell, marvelling at the colours in the lichens, at the size of the Bull Kelp (Kombu) that hangs tight at the tide line, floating above, then dashing under the water. There are a myriad of small crustaceans (limpets and barnacles) that cling on the the rock for dear life. Dean relates stories of finding abalone in the same area. He warned us against over-indulging in any one sitting as they have a laxette-like side effect! Moving further south, Dean manoeuvres the boat into some of the cave openings, we traverse the Tasmanian equivalent of the Bay of Islands. The basalt cliffs tower 294m above us. You need to lean out from the shelter of the boat canopy to even see the top of them. Wind and water have combined to form tall, symmetrical columns that sit tightly beside each other locked in an eternal battle with the elements.

When a cave continues to be eroded, you end up with an arch and even loner erosion causes the arch to fall, leaving two columns. We pass through one spectacular set of rock columns known as the Guardians of the Sea - with a regal aura. The column further out wears a 'crown' and is called the King Column and his mate, the Queen Column is slightly smaller and appears the have long locks of hair. Its amazing what a story can add to your imagination! It is near here that Dean pulls nose in close to the landmass and it doesn't take long for us to realise that he is showing us a blowhole. The incoming tide increases the force of the blowhole, spraying us all with a fine mist. Its about now, that I can start to sense the timing of this swell. Without my crutches, I have decided not to try to stand up during this cruise, and so while others are rushing around trying to get the prized shot with water spray and mist, I am sitting quietly, 'hearing' the sound of the blowhole. There is a deep thump just before the water jets into the air, and then a tickling as the water falls back to its bed. Quite cathartic. Dean explains that this is not technically a true blowhole as there is no upper opening. Rather, it is an underwater cave - the water is pushed into the cave, hits the rear wall and then is shot back out the cave entrance. Call it what you will, describe it as you must, it is still a spectacular sight.

We cruise (well, motor) further south - checking out colonies of gannets and comorents, drying their wings on rocky outcrops off the shore. Their guano is that acidic that nothing can grow where they rest, and the rock is eventually bleached to a stark white painted look. At last we are nearing the extreme end of today's journey and we can smell the next wildlife long before we can see them. While Australian Fur Seals are beautiful to look at, they positively stink - especially when they are in a colony.  And this colony are all males - and we all know what a bunch of teen and young adult boys are like when it comes to cleanliness and housekeeping! Well, these are no different. The females live further north and the boys live in this area for 9 months of the year, practising gluttony, pride and finally lust. Its a chest-beating thing. The alpha male gets the pick of the girlfriends. The more girlfriends, the greater the progeny and the survival of his genetic line. We spent the better part of 20 minutes just watching (and smelling) them. They are amazingly beautiful creatures.

Finally, the boat is turned north and we head back to the safe anchorage of Adventure Bay. We went as far south as Tasman Island, Tasman Head and The Friars - all of which sit in the souther tip of the Tasman Sea and close to the Southern Ocean. The trip back is cold and windy, and bumpy. We are travelling off-shore, riding the ridges and troughs for a 'smoother' ride - that is, not rising across them. The journey back is just short of an hour and in this time I gradually add:
* doing up my new multi-layered weather jacket
* my face mask (to protect my lips as much as I can)
* my beanie
* my gloves; and finally
* zipping my coat up OVER all the rest and my head.  I was freezing. Literally!

But what an exhilarating way to spend 3 hours and a decent chunk of money. Well worth it and I would recommend it to anyone. You can watch a video of this trip here.

So, half the day is gone. It is now 2pm and we only have today to explore the rest of the South Bruny Island. We haven't eaten since our croissant/roll this morning, so we set out  to visit the Bruny Island Premium wines, Cider and Restaurant. Luckily we arrive at 2:25pm as lunch is only served until 2:30pm, so we quickly find a table and choose from the menu. Gen selects the  Sliders and ciders - mushroom and haloumi, lamb rosemary, salmon avocado with three ciders to taste - Ginger and Apple, Blapple (Blackberry and Apple) and Cherry and Apple - her fave. I buy a bottle of 2019 unwooded Chardonnay and Pork Rillettes with warmed bread to eat with it. Both were delicious, but the star was the Bruny Honey & cinnamon crème bruleè - forest fruits, Scottish shortbread - now THAT was delicious!! Having finished our repast, and purchased some providores from their selection of ciders, jams, chutneys and smoked salmon (to have with our 'fridge' bread), we thought we would drive down and have a look at the Bruny Island Lighthouse.

In this hire car we are not allowed to drive on unsealed roads, so having set out to explore, we soon hit a gravel road and make the sad decision not to proceed. The other attratcion of interest was Inala - the Jurassic Garden. It was only a few days ago that Justine, who is house-sitting and cat-caring for us, sent us a link to this site. It was a very interesting collection of shells, fossils and bones all beautifully labelled and displayed. Outside was a very substantial garden that primarily focusses on jurassic and later period plants. There is also a very extensive collection of native and non-native plants, all grouped by family. The path meanders down the planted hill and by the time we reach the bottom, it is clear that the operators are reading to close for the day. No time to amble back up the path, so we just took shortcuts through the grassed surrounds. 

All in all, another very busy and satisfying day as we arrive back at the Hotel Bruny Lodge and our villa. We did not think to pull the curtains as we left, so the room is very warm as the west-facing glass has heated the room all afternoon! So with the door left open, the room is cooled and the first Pademelon of the night appears. We hope that it is a really clear night so we can see the amazing night sky here.

Thanks for all the well-wishes. Your love and support mean a lot to me.  See you again tomorrow folks.