What do travellers on Tasmania's East Coast eat? Oysters? Nope, for me its Lobster all the way!!

Last night was very cool. And tonight parts of Tasmania are meant to get to -3 degrees. Yes, -3! Still, the days are lovely and those cold nights mean that the days are crisp and clear. We are finishing eating the last of the bits and pieces of food that we have collected over the last week or two. There was a Cheese and Chives Scone from the Pyengana dairy yesterday with some of their stunning garlic butter, pieces of raisin toast from the Rosevears Bakery again with garlic butter - don't knock it if you haven't tried it (we have finished our tub of regular butter and its not worth buying another for a couple of days). Add to that latte sachets and an apple and we are ready to hit the day.

Today we are headed to the East Coast wineries and the Bicheno area. We begin with the Devil's Corner Winery, arriving about 10:50 am. We had tried unsuccessfully to book online for a premium wine tasting experience (we reported that to them today) but once we got there, realised that the self guided tasting at only $15 was a much better deal. I suppose you might miss the banter with one of their employees, but the tasting notes that are accessed by scanning the QR Code on the tasting paddle provides plenty of information. 

You know that you are in for nice wines when you instantly recognise the winery logo from major marketing campaigns. Devil's Corner is one such winery. That and the fact that a number of people that I know have personally recommended them also.

Never one to drink on an 'empty' stomach we shared a cheese and charcuterie board. In order, we tried premium sparkling cuvee, two cool climate whites, a savingnon blanc and a pinot grigio, a pinot noir rose and their leading pinot noir. They were nice so to added a class of riesling and a syrah to round out our experience. Their Sav Blanc rivals anything coming our of Marlborough, NZ. Might have shipped a mixed case home - love that, might haha - as Gen answered a Facebook post tonight, she was my evil little devil "Mum, if you like it, buy it" - always did find it hard to not give in to that little devil! 😉  😊

After a leisurely couple of hours, we headed back toward Bicheno and made a stop at The Pondering Frog cafe. Our entry is greeted with "Hello ladies, is it lunch or an ice-cream time" by the proprietor. Clever marketing! Very clever! We had stopped because Gen's friend Tracey is made about frogs. Ice creams were the order - home made and well worth stopping for. My passionfruit ice cream was full of flavour - and seeds - while Gen had the Peanut Butter Ice Cream with dark chocolate coating. It was huge, lopsided and the choc coating was very thick. BUT neither the ice cream or the chocolate is overly sweet and she enjoys it to the end.

The other must-visit that we constantly are told about is The Farm Shed in Bicheno. There are 22 wine producers on the Tasmanian East Coast, and only ten of these have cellar doors. The others provide their wines to select outlets - predominantly restaurants in Hobart and/or Launceston. BUT, you don't need to table-hop restaurants, because The  Farm Door acts as a cellar door for all 22 vineyards. Now, I can't disappoint anyone, so we settle in! The stock Wines, Whiskies, Gins and a whole range of food providores and gift lines. We booked for 1 wine tasting and 1 whisky tasting - as Gen is driving, she will have a tiny sip only. Normally there are five wines and five whiskies. After much chatter with the ladies who operate this gem, I THINK we topped out at 7 wines and 6 whiskies plus a tasting of Australia's only Peated Rye. Not my cup of tea, but plenty of the others were.
Again, I may - bugger let's forget the jokes, I DID buy a half-dozen wines, and I signed up to their wine club. Looks like there will be plenty of time to taste Tasmanian wines over the next year or so. So, who wants to be my friend??? Hmm?  You?

The area between the Bay of Fires and Freycinet is well known for its seafood. In particular the freshest oysters you could want - for as little as $14 per dozen. Makes you wonder how some restaurants can get away with charging up to $8 each. But for me, it is the other delicacy that we are interested in - LOBSTER - locally known as Crayfish. 

The Lobster Shack is a well-known local identity. We paid $60 for half a plain medium lobster Crayfish in Stanley about 10 days ago.
Today, we pay $55 for a half medium lobster thermidor with Pyengana Cheese being used in the mornay sauce!! Winner winner! With all the troubles in the world at the moment, I do feel a little guilty. But not for long! 

Fully 'stuffed', 'glutted', 'filled' and 'bursting' we waddle back to our car - with more swagger than the seagulls that jump out of our way. we head the car for scamander and our accommodation in the gentle late afternoon light. BUT this was not to be an easy trip back. It is 58 kms from Bicheno to Scamander and we are travelling in light traffic - each lost in our own thoughts. We round a bend and start up a rise to come to a stopped line of traffic with hazard light on. This doesn't look good, we have already passed through the roadworks just to the north of Bicheno. Before long, we learn that there is a crash up ahead. Gen turns off the car and heads up to see whether it will be worth us witing, or turning atound. She reports it happened about 40 minutes earlier, the police were on site, turning back traffic, saying the road would be closed for many hours yet.

So, along with the rest of the waiting cars, we turn. We ask someone who appears to be a  local what the alternate routes are. He advises that there is only one - Up over St Mary's Pass through St Marys and down Elephant Pass. He warns that there are tight bends and to just take it slowly. And that it was. I didn't envy Gen this drive with the late afternoon sun in her eyes for most of the trip up the mountain to St Marys. Normally we would have made a stop to have a look around, but the light is fading and we had made a pact that we would not drive at dusk or dawn because of the amount of wildlife that appears. We don't want to add to the road-kill. We finally reach the base, pass the junction with the coastal road that is now blocked and manned by police and in another 15 minutes find ourselves back in Scamander. 

We pass the motel and head to the service station. Although closed, they have a 24 hour card facility to purchase fuel. Thanks to good ol Costco, we know how to operate these. Gen fills up and there is another hire car, a Merc whose asian driver obviously needs help. Gen does another good deed for the day and explains how to get access to the fuel - a very relieved driver - it looked like he was settling in to wait in the car until morning!   

We have an early start, setting out for Coles Bay to join another Pennicott Cruise - this one to the Freycinet National Park and the iconic Wineglass Bay. Its another bucket list item for me, and I am no longer up to the hike in by foot!

Footnote: My sister, Donna, told us she had tested positive for Covid-19 last week and today Antony phones us to tell us that Amanda has tested positive today and feel like a truck has hit her. so the household is in quarantine for at least a week. So after some discussion, we have decided that we will head home once we land in brisbane rather than staying a few days. Can't say that either of us is too disappointed. Its been a holiday to make memories, but we will both be glad to stay put in one place!  

What is the saying? Ah yes, bread and WINE!

Once we get out of bed and open the very efficient blockout blinds we are greeted with an overcast morning, but with spots of clear skies. It is meant to get to 22 degrees with the chance of showers, but given we are going to winery-hop in the Tamar Valley today, we are not at all concerned. 

We are still preparing our own breakfasts - me for one will never tire of these amazing raspberries (almost finished 😭) to add to our fruit toast. Not only does it save money, it also saves time - which is our main priority. There are a number of people in the carpark below us eating delicacies from the Rosevears bakery. We can vouch for the freshness and tastiness!

The days left are gallopping by. There is still so much to see and do, and so little time to do it in. Breakfast underway, I grab the Wine Trail booklet to decide on 2 - 4 wineries to visit. Now, Gen is no a big win drinker and to date has restricted her choices to very sweet varieties such as Moscato. So today might be a bit testing for her. For the last few years, my driving restrictions have meant that I have been able to continue to imbibe as now, there is always someone else doing the driving! But on this trip, I am feeling a little sorry for Gen as she is doing all the driving. On previous holidays, I have always enjoyed being the one behind the wheel as I am sure some of my past travelling compatriots can attest! Not mentioning anyone Helen and Donna!!

Anyway, this morning we leave Rosevears and are heading towards the south. As we join the highway a few kilometres from the hotel, the first thing that we see on the road is the signage advising that there are cyclists in the area. We know first hand, having followed a number of cyclists for kilometres in areas where passing visibiity is poor. The yellow road sign shows two cyclists riding abreast. And that is exactly how they ride. Too bad the powers that be did not think to depict those same two cyclists RIDING IN SINGLE FILE! But for every storm there is a silver lining and the silver lining to being trapped behind cyclists driving at about 20 kph, is that you have more time to be observant of the little things that you pass. Like the tired agapanthus, drooping along the borders of garden beds, bereft of their colour and vim , tired and spent. Or the way that the clouds part momentarily to allow the sunlight to dance across the waters of the body of water that is the Tamar River, and not some bay. Like the extra detail that the man cleaning the exterior of his truck is doing. Instead of just using his gerni to water blast the behemoth that no doubt provides his living, he is up on a step ladder, hose in one hand, rag in the other, polishing the chrome around the edge of the windscreen - that's dedication. Like the passion and power of the footy players on the field that we hurry past (once we're passed the cyclist!)

This morning I took the last of my Panadol Osteo. This is probably the gentlest of the drugs I take daily and is useful as it allows me to limit the stronger pain-killers to an as-need basis. Now, given the problems that we had trying to fill my Qld written prescriptions, we are not sure whether we will be able to buy them over the counter, or whether we will need to get another script written here in Tasmania. Turns out, this is an easy one. You can buy them over the counter, with no record taken, AND for about 2/3 the cost of supply in Queensland where a record is kept of supply and questions asked if you need them more frequently than what a pharmacist might think you should. Go figure, there is no rhyme or reason to the lack of consistency. We decide that before we leave Launceston that we will buy a couple of extra boxes as spares.

So we are now through the City Centre. We are heading south on the Tamar Valley Wine Trail. Last night I had a quick look through the Wine Trails Tasmania 2022 booklet that we picked up a few days ago. The booklet divides the state into four major wine regions. For each region, it explores the region geographically, climatically and soil typing and the impact these have on the fruit and resultant wines, as well as supporting producers and non-wine things to see and do. The Tamar Valley includes the Tamar Valley, Pipers River and Launceston. There are 17 wineries listed in the Tamar Valley region, and we do not have enough time to do them all, so I have selected:
1. Josef Chromy Wines in Relbia (most southerly and because I really enjoyed the glass I had at Stillwater Restaurant last night; 
2. Clover Hill Wines in Lebrina in the north east of the region as they specialise in sparkling wines;
3. Pipers Brook Vineyard north of Clover Hill and the one i had heard of before visiting the region; and finally
4. Jansz Tasmania which is adjacent to Pipers Brook.
A number of the unvisited wineries are open by appointment only and we do not have the time to commit. I am just glad to get to these ones!

At Josef Chromy, you must book a tasting, which we have not. The only vacancy they have is for 2:15pm today, and so a little dejectedly, I turn to leave. But once a salesman, always a salesman and the lady who we had been speaking with had another alternative (of course!). While a tasting was not possible, we could sit on the terrace and have a glass of wine with a cheese plate. I am so glad we did. I convinced Gen to swap out her Moscato for a Reisling and I had a Chardonnay. The cheese plate was amazing - a Brie, a blue and a cheddar from the region along with some of the amazing leatherwood honey (we are on the hunt for some to bring home) fruits fresh and dried, candied nuts, home-made crispbread and dried fruit-bread. The wine was truly delicious and Gen conceded that perhaps with a bit of training, her palate might be able to be trained to enjoy other wines! Watching the tastings underway, I can understand the need for bookings. They are held for no more than 4 people per wine advisor who sits with them in conversation rather than just presenting wines by a glass. They walk the grounds, explaining the varietals and the outcomes. As well as wine and cheeses, Tasmania also grows a wide variety of nuts and just beside us, beyond the path is a beautiful hazelnut tree. Like many quality producers, the grounds are just beautiful. Manicured lawns are dotted with flower beds and named mature trees. The aerator pond is home to a black swan pair and any number of ducks. There is a clutch of native hens (Turbo chooks as Gen calls them) scratching away around the base of the vines for any wriggly tasty morsels.

On to Clover Hill, a 45 minute drive away. We skirt the forests on the drive and can smell the leatherwood on the air. It is such a dominating scent and explains the abundance of bees that we see everywhere we stop the car. The Cellar Door for Clover Hill comes in to view after you turn a corner and pass a huge tree. Architecturally speaking, it is stunning! I would not be surprise to find the architect was the same as the one used at MONA. Stark and striking, it is still sympathetic to its environment. The hard materials - sandstone, weathered steel and timber are softened by crushed sandstone paths, lawns filled (I assume deliberately) with clover, and trees and shrubs in the grey tones of sage and olive groves. We walk through HUGE automatic glass doors to find a tasting room cum lunch room - they do a shared cheese plate or a six course degustation menu only - that looks out over the vines down into the valley beyond. The autumn afternoon light glows gold over the changing colours of the trees and vines - Gen comments often how she loves the changing colours of nature here in autumn, as do I. There are also a number of beautiful bronze statues - a farmer and his dog just inside the front gate and next to the cellar door is a stunning large wedge-tail eagle landing, talons extended as she reaches her perch.
Tastings here do not require a booking, and are presented as a more 'traditionl' tasting. As Gen is driving we decide that we will share a tasting as the full six-sample tasting is equivalent to 1.6 standard drinks (and she has already had one glass). To compensate, she also orders a pot of French Earl Grey Tea - her favourite that she has not had since we left home.  The shared cheese plate is very different to the one we finished only a little while ago. There is a french baked brie with shaved pumpkin curls, a creamy blue and an aged Bay of Fires cheddar.
Clover Hills specialise in sparkling wines and the standard tasting is 6 wines. We begin with a non-vintage Rose and finished with a Cuvee Exceptionnelle that was splendid. There were two other wines not included in the tasting in the sparkling range plus a rage of still wines. But it is sparkling wines that are their speciality. I just can't pass up the chance to taste their not-included Exceptionnelle Blanc de Blancs so purchase a glass. Great move! Now I may have (or may not have, asif!!) joined their Cellar Door Club for a minimum of two deliveries per annum. The first delivery is timed to reach home about the same time we will, so remember, keep Saturday 23 April free!!!! I'm having a celebration of all things Tasmanian. 

Our next stop was at Pipers Brook Vineyard - the only Tamar Valley winery that I had heard about before arriving in the region. Their cellar door sits dead in the centre of the vineyard. You weave in and out of the rows of un-named vines following small timber signage. As we pull in to the carpark, there are a couple of families. Gen comments that she can't understand why people would bring children to such a venue - and really, I have to agree with her. There is little to keep a child interested and occupied, and we all know what bored kids are like!
By now we have had our fill of cheeses for the day and are actually craving something sweet. The kitchen at Nadines at Pipers Restaurant is closing, but they do offer a Brownie with berries, cream and ice-cream. It was just what we were looking for! This cellar door is much more casual and they offer a bit of everything. You self select the wines you wish to try which are listed under red, white and then sparkling, which to me seems back to front!  Again, given that Gen is driving, we opt to share one wine-tasting. I select the Ninth Island Rose sparkling, then the Ninth Island Reisling and Pipers Tasmania Pinot Grigio to be followed by the New Certan Pinot Noir. That in particular was a very nice drop. I bought a bottle to share with Andrew and Meredith when they arrive at the end of next week, and a bottle of the Pinot Grigio. Hope that they are in a tasting mood - lol!

We could have also visited Jansz Tasmania as they share the land with Pipers Brook, but the cellar doors are closing, so we miss out.

Still, I am comfortably mellowed and am happy to head back into Launceston and Rosevears. We have not yet eaten at the restaurant here and have decided that we will do so tonight. The trip back seems longer than the same one out, and Gen is tiring of the driving (and being in and out of the car repetedly). While we were at Pipers Brook, we phoned and booked dinner for tomorrow night at Alina at Penny Royal. We are doing a Tamar River Cruise and will explore a little of the Cataract Gorge site after the cruise. Our time here is fast coming to an end. Off to the Bay of Fires on Tuesday before Freycinet on Wednesday and then back to Hobart.

Just after 6pm we head down to the Rosevears Hotel, below the units, and walk through to the restaurant. We did not book, as we didn't want to have to cancel a booking a second time if we couldn't fit dinner in! There are a few cars in the car-park, but nothing like that of Friday or last night. Still, the waiter explains that they are almost fully booked and that he can only offer us a table in the rear and up a couple of steps. No problem - we can make that work. The menu is a mix of restaurant and pub food. I choose to have a steak, my first since I have arrived in tasmania. Knowing that I won't be able to finish it, Gen chooses a Marguerite Pizza. Just as well she did, because I could not finish all my meal. The steak, pan-fried field mushrooms with mash and wilted spinach was delicious. Gen enjoyed what was left of the steak. Desserts looked too good to pass up and I had a Turkish Delight Pavlova with cream and persian fairy floss (a tiny amount) and Gen chose the Salted Caramel Popcorn Sundae. Both were deliciously sickly.

Its off to bed now, we have an earlier start tomorrow!

When luxury is not is cracked up to be

Happy birthday for me. The last two years has certainly taught me to appreciate every day I get on this side of the ground.

Our villa (no longer calling this one a cabin!) is luxe all the way.
The bed is high with a mattress that is about 50cm high. I have to do a little hop to get up on it! Gen had put the electric blanket on for me we first got in last night, so despite the wind that we can hear swirling gently around outside, we are toasty warm.

Turns out that we are probably a little too warm. We got into bed, and within minutes I am asleep. Gen too slept well initially, but woke at 4:30am, and was unable to get back to sleep. She thought it might have been because of my snoring! Moi? Surely not! We know that this is a rare occcurrence, but whatever, she couldn't get back to sleep. Just inside the door to the Villa is a long bench with a cushion running its length. I told Gen that I would happily sleep there, but she wouldn't hear of it. Instead, this was where she took herself, a couple of pillows and the most exquisite cable-knitted blanket (it is too large to call a throw). Looking into the black expanse of the night outside, she says that she could see darker splotches, so pointing her phone she captured pictures of 5 Pademelons within touching distance of the villa! She sleeps for another 3-4 hours here. I guess we are just not used to luxury!

This morning we are off back over to Adventure Bay to take one of the Pennicott Widerness Cruises - a 3 hour sojourn into the waters off the Island. The jetty is right at one end of the main road network. We drive through sleepy little hamlets full of little tin and timber shanties and 1950/60s beach holiday houses that are slowly being crowded out by the brash newcomers with their endless sheets of glass and timber. Sadly we count 7  animals newly deceased as roadkill. We have been warned by all the locals of the dangers of driving between dusk and dawn and on our way home from the supermarket yesterday afternoon we carefully watched three pademelons and a wallaby hesitate and then jump back into the bush.  

Even now, well into autumn, there are enough people booked for this cruise that two boats are taken out. Our deckhands are Dean and Ben. They are confident and very able, checking on everyone, all belted in, caped up and had their 2 ginger tablets - swallow with water, not chew they are trying to instruct an Indian family. Charades works all over the world! We begin our journey with a bit of drama - the Indian older man (grandpa) slipped between the jetty and the boat - lightning fast reflexes saw Dean and Ben grab him, but they were obviously shaken and almost had him undressed to make sure he was not injured. After a few minutes of checks, they again checked everyone else and then we drew slowly away from the jetty - as though letting the apron strings slowly out. The the full force of the three massive engines were unleashed and nose up, we sped out into the Bay. The two boats weave in and out up and over each others wakes and its not too long before the dolphins arrive to play in the waters. Obviously the cruise operators and these wild animals are well-known to each other. The engines are cut and passengers race for the optimum spots to capture photos and videos. Dean explains that with smartphones, the best way to capture footage is with video and then take screenshots for particular photos you want. Most of us are clueless, but he came to the rescue explaining how to do this for Android and iPhones! Ah, to be young again and able to keep up with the constant changes in technology!

Finally with the fill of dolphins, we resume our seats and buckle up again. Ben and Dean are quite the team, very relaxed, treading the boards constantly chatting to the passengers, sharing stories and groan-worthy dad jokes! They explain that we will be hugging the coast on the trip out, and will journey back in the open waters. Dean in particular is a wealth of knowledge and stories. A lifetime local, it is very obvious that he is passionate about this environment and enjoys sharing it with others. He explains that here at the northern end of Adventure Bay we are travelling passed Jurassic period basalts that are 'breathing' rocks reflecting the motion of the ocean. Over the millenia since they were thrust up through the earth, the rocks have been continuously pounded by the relentless sea, slowly but ever so indeterminably worn away. Caves are worn into the occasional softer striations- initially just small openings growing eventually into larger, deeper or taller openings. 

We move in closer, watching the swell work its magic, rolling with that swell, marvelling at the colours in the lichens, at the size of the Bull Kelp (Kombu) that hangs tight at the tide line, floating above, then dashing under the water. There are a myriad of small crustaceans (limpets and barnacles) that cling on the the rock for dear life. Dean relates stories of finding abalone in the same area. He warned us against over-indulging in any one sitting as they have a laxette-like side effect! Moving further south, Dean manoeuvres the boat into some of the cave openings, we traverse the Tasmanian equivalent of the Bay of Islands. The basalt cliffs tower 294m above us. You need to lean out from the shelter of the boat canopy to even see the top of them. Wind and water have combined to form tall, symmetrical columns that sit tightly beside each other locked in an eternal battle with the elements.

When a cave continues to be eroded, you end up with an arch and even loner erosion causes the arch to fall, leaving two columns. We pass through one spectacular set of rock columns known as the Guardians of the Sea - with a regal aura. The column further out wears a 'crown' and is called the King Column and his mate, the Queen Column is slightly smaller and appears the have long locks of hair. Its amazing what a story can add to your imagination! It is near here that Dean pulls nose in close to the landmass and it doesn't take long for us to realise that he is showing us a blowhole. The incoming tide increases the force of the blowhole, spraying us all with a fine mist. Its about now, that I can start to sense the timing of this swell. Without my crutches, I have decided not to try to stand up during this cruise, and so while others are rushing around trying to get the prized shot with water spray and mist, I am sitting quietly, 'hearing' the sound of the blowhole. There is a deep thump just before the water jets into the air, and then a tickling as the water falls back to its bed. Quite cathartic. Dean explains that this is not technically a true blowhole as there is no upper opening. Rather, it is an underwater cave - the water is pushed into the cave, hits the rear wall and then is shot back out the cave entrance. Call it what you will, describe it as you must, it is still a spectacular sight.

We cruise (well, motor) further south - checking out colonies of gannets and comorents, drying their wings on rocky outcrops off the shore. Their guano is that acidic that nothing can grow where they rest, and the rock is eventually bleached to a stark white painted look. At last we are nearing the extreme end of today's journey and we can smell the next wildlife long before we can see them. While Australian Fur Seals are beautiful to look at, they positively stink - especially when they are in a colony.  And this colony are all males - and we all know what a bunch of teen and young adult boys are like when it comes to cleanliness and housekeeping! Well, these are no different. The females live further north and the boys live in this area for 9 months of the year, practising gluttony, pride and finally lust. Its a chest-beating thing. The alpha male gets the pick of the girlfriends. The more girlfriends, the greater the progeny and the survival of his genetic line. We spent the better part of 20 minutes just watching (and smelling) them. They are amazingly beautiful creatures.

Finally, the boat is turned north and we head back to the safe anchorage of Adventure Bay. We went as far south as Tasman Island, Tasman Head and The Friars - all of which sit in the souther tip of the Tasman Sea and close to the Southern Ocean. The trip back is cold and windy, and bumpy. We are travelling off-shore, riding the ridges and troughs for a 'smoother' ride - that is, not rising across them. The journey back is just short of an hour and in this time I gradually add:
* doing up my new multi-layered weather jacket
* my face mask (to protect my lips as much as I can)
* my beanie
* my gloves; and finally
* zipping my coat up OVER all the rest and my head.  I was freezing. Literally!

But what an exhilarating way to spend 3 hours and a decent chunk of money. Well worth it and I would recommend it to anyone. You can watch a video of this trip here.

So, half the day is gone. It is now 2pm and we only have today to explore the rest of the South Bruny Island. We haven't eaten since our croissant/roll this morning, so we set out  to visit the Bruny Island Premium wines, Cider and Restaurant. Luckily we arrive at 2:25pm as lunch is only served until 2:30pm, so we quickly find a table and choose from the menu. Gen selects the  Sliders and ciders - mushroom and haloumi, lamb rosemary, salmon avocado with three ciders to taste - Ginger and Apple, Blapple (Blackberry and Apple) and Cherry and Apple - her fave. I buy a bottle of 2019 unwooded Chardonnay and Pork Rillettes with warmed bread to eat with it. Both were delicious, but the star was the Bruny Honey & cinnamon crème bruleè - forest fruits, Scottish shortbread - now THAT was delicious!! Having finished our repast, and purchased some providores from their selection of ciders, jams, chutneys and smoked salmon (to have with our 'fridge' bread), we thought we would drive down and have a look at the Bruny Island Lighthouse.

In this hire car we are not allowed to drive on unsealed roads, so having set out to explore, we soon hit a gravel road and make the sad decision not to proceed. The other attratcion of interest was Inala - the Jurassic Garden. It was only a few days ago that Justine, who is house-sitting and cat-caring for us, sent us a link to this site. It was a very interesting collection of shells, fossils and bones all beautifully labelled and displayed. Outside was a very substantial garden that primarily focusses on jurassic and later period plants. There is also a very extensive collection of native and non-native plants, all grouped by family. The path meanders down the planted hill and by the time we reach the bottom, it is clear that the operators are reading to close for the day. No time to amble back up the path, so we just took shortcuts through the grassed surrounds. 

All in all, another very busy and satisfying day as we arrive back at the Hotel Bruny Lodge and our villa. We did not think to pull the curtains as we left, so the room is very warm as the west-facing glass has heated the room all afternoon! So with the door left open, the room is cooled and the first Pademelon of the night appears. We hope that it is a really clear night so we can see the amazing night sky here.

Thanks for all the well-wishes. Your love and support mean a lot to me.  See you again tomorrow folks.

A night to Remember - forever!

The Hotel Národný dom in Banská Bystrica is hot. We slept last night with the windows open, me enduring the mosquitoes! There was a thunderstorm that yielded some rain later in the night, which cooled everything down just a tad - but not really enough for me.
And this morning is as hot as yesterday afternoon. And to add insult to injury, right on 7 am building works start up just outside our window - we knew they would, there are comments on booking.com's website about it.
But the rooms, while hot are nicely appointed. The outside of the hotel and the public areas however need major overhauling!

I had let the blog get away when the connection was so bad in Bratislava and it takes me all late last night and a couple of hours this morning to get it up to date. Michael comments that I have created a monster, but really, we will look back in time and be glad we have recorded our thoughts and impressions - of that I am sure! I am too hot to be bothered with breakfast this morning, but Michael goes down and has a light one - cereal and fruit. He said that they had a reasonable range on offer, but he too is not really all that hungry.

As soon as we get out of the room, we realise that the day is not so bad. Turns out that this stretch of the hotel has sun all day and is surrounded on three sides by other buildings - guess that explains the heat! Once we are on the road moving, with the windows down (we haven't been able to get the condenser pipe for the air conditioning repaired) it is actually quite pleasant.

We are headed back to Vienna to go to the Mozart Concert tonight - at the same venue where they hold the Vienna New Years Concert each year - the Musikverein which is a block behind the Opera House. We have reserved tickets - all we need to do is make sure we are there by 8 pm.

We looked at travelling north to see a little more of Slovakia and then coming in to Vienna from the north, but it will add more than 2 hours to an already 3 hour trip. So <sigh> on to the mtorways we go. After the journey of the last two days, the trip is comparatively boring. One light piece of trivia is that we left Banská Bystrica this morning on Route 66. Certainly can draw some parallel with its famous namesake - it is long and seemingly unending! (This reference would be familiar to those of you who watched the 1960's program "Route 66", featuring George Maharis, Martin Milner and introduced by Nelson Riddle's very recognisable theme music?) This then becomes route 77 LOL! And the roadworks continue. We are still amazed at the amount of repairs and road building going on and the scant regard for WH&S. Honestly, our guys would literally have heart attacks! And there is none of this 3 men to a shovel - they are busy and everyone is doing something productive. What is a little surprising is the number of police with their mobile radar guns that are operative near roadworks areas - maybe this is to compensate for the lax WH&S in an endeavour to keep the workers safe.

This is something of a laugh because while drivers do tend to slow done, some, around roadworks, at other times they drive like maniacs taking all sorts of risks overtaking. I am playing it a little more safe - I mean if the car were to be damaged . . .
We also encounter the radar police at the border crossing - although there are no longer any border formalities to be had, they infrastrucutre is still in place - including the traffic limits. And there they were, out of the heat in the shade of the border overpass, clocking heaps of people doing more than the 20 kph - I mean, there really is no need to go that slow any longer - but! Never let it be said that they let an opportunity go to waste!

Oh, and you remember how we lost the trucks? Well, today we found them all again! Heading for Western Europe of course - miles of them!

So we continue to travel westwards again - towards much more affluent areas. And as we leave this little country that has so many parallels in nature to Australia, there are reminders that all is not the same. From the manual labourers, forking hay into the back of trucks in the searing summer sun, to the kitsch gnome garden and the roadside fast food outlets - this one was jam packed when we came through last Friday - so the food must be good. We'll never know - we didn't stop.

Vienna is frenetic, hustling like a city going about its business. The traffic is chaotic as we arrive around 2:30 pm. One of the sights I had wanted to see was The Prater. We ran out of time last time and so figure that since we go within a kilometre os it, its as good a time as ever to go have a look. The giant ferris wheel is supposed to give great views over the City. Turns out that it is just like what Luna Park was like in Sydney in the 1970s.

Lots of rides - rollercoasters, dodgem cars, water slides, miniature train, merry go rounds and the famous big Ferris Wheel. Interestingly, you line up for your photo even before you board the ride! Then it is up you go in replica cabins based on the original design. Yes, the views are great, but you are too far from the Old City to see any significant detail. But there are great views of the amusement park below and the parklands setting in which it sits.

There are also great views of the Wien Praterstern railway station, one of the major railway stations of Vienna and you can see how busy the station is with trains arriving and departing all the time we are on the ride. And so, one circulation done, our ride is done - guess we can say, been there, been had!

We continue in to the City and around to our hotel that is much closer in then the youth hostel where we stayed last time. The Hotel Drei Kronen is not too far from the Opera House, so it should be easy to get in to the Mozart Concert nearby tonight. When we only stay one or two nights at a hotel, we no longer drag the suitcase out each time. Rather, we have a large carry bag that has all the basics in it. Tonight however, for the first time in a long time, we need to get our 'good' clothes out to attend the concert, so the suitcase comes in tonight as well! Parking is just down the street in a secure car park, so its not too bad.

The weather that was on the horizon while we were on The Prater has hit and just before we head into town for our night out, the rain starts. So it is a cab job. We get in to the Musikverein in plenty of time and join the hundreds of other people queueing to collect their tickets. The programs are very reasonable (surprise, surprise) at €5 each and so we buy one as a souvenir. Michael then poses with the seller for a photo. This is the venue where they host the Vienna New Years Day concert each year and it is a sumptuously beautiful building. Built in Greek Renaissance style, it is marble and gold, stunning proportions, elaborate statuary, ceiling frescoes and 10 huge crystal chandeliers hanging above our heads.

And that is even before the performance begins! We had purchased better tickets on the condition that we could get seats dead centre in the front row of the balcony - which we did! Except that no one told us there was a divider between the two seats! Didn't matter, but we each had to enter from opposite ends of the row. The view was magnificent with the full 30 piece orchestra in period costume right in front of us.

The program included works by Mozart and Haydn and featured two opera singers - Claudia Ema Camie (Koloratur Soprano) and Sokolin Asllani (Baritone) as well. The orchestra was conducted by Ewald Donhoffer. After 90 of beautiful music in a magnificent setting, the concert finished with Strauss - Blue danube waltz and then a hearty rendition of the Johann Strauss Vater "Radetzky Marsch" Op.228 with full audience participation being managed by the Conductor!

We are on a real high as we leave and who cares that it is raining? Oh, is it raining?! We have not yet had dinner, so at 10 pm in Vienna, we stroll with our heads filled with music and soon come upon the Imperial Hotel and it's restaurant and although we know that this is one of the more expensive restaurants in the city, decide to finish our wonderful night by treating ourselves to a special dinner.

And special it was. We are greeted at the entry door by Uwe Reithner who went on to serve as my personal sommelier. Together with our waiter, Erich Hahn, they ensured we had a very memorable experience. In this stunning silver service setting, they were helpful without being overbearing, there when you needed them and not while we were eating. They made sublime suggestions about the menu, discussed wine choices and even joked with us. When asked for the bill, Erich even joked "ah, you want to sign - or wash dishes in the kitchen!"

The food was delicious - I wish there was a better word to capture it. When Erich noticed that I was writing down our menu choices (and I told him about the blog) he went to bring me a copy of the menu to take away, unasked - see what I mean about service - pre-empting our every need. Gosh, how can we make choices from what is on offer, it all sounded so delicious. Nevertheless, we do eventually make the following choices:
Appetiser (compliments of the chef) and once this came we knew we were in for a special meal:
Roasted tuna with fresh herbs and included tiny little tomatoes, one dried the other fresh. With it I had a glass of Tio Pepe Sherry
Entrees:
Viennese Calf's Lights with Chive Dumpling and Fried Quail's Egg (fine slivers of heart and tongue done in a sauce with fine slivers of vegetables) Michael
Lobster Bisque with Armagnac and Lobster Dumpling (exquisite, served into the bowl in front of me, and "with a drop or two of Armagnac madad, or the whole bottle?") Maria
Mains:
Sauteed half lobster with Calamari-Red Pepper Ragout and Leek (artistically presented with the meat curling from its shell) Michael
Roasted fillet of Veal on Mushrooms with Polenta Souffle (served with baby vegetables) Maria. And with it a glass of Mantherhoff Reisling 2007 from the Lower Austria region around Vienna.
Desserts:
Gosh, we hardly needed them, but why would we not complete the night by finishing our meal with something sweet. When we told Erich that we wanted something light, he suggested that we have the Poppy Seed Parfait with stewed apricots from the set menu. So we agreed and it could not have been a better choice even though I could only eat half and Michael therefore got a very generous portion! This was subklime. The parfait was amazing but for me, the apricots were even better - forget your grandma's recipe here. They were sweet, sticky but definitely not sickly and had a hint of cardamom and I think rosewater - gosh, if only there was something like taste-a-vision so you could taste what it was like!

We finished our night with wonderful coffee and hand made truffle chocolates which we couldn't finish!
So tonight we have spent 4 days budget, but it is a night we will remember forever, finished in the company of a couple of new mates in Vienna - thanks Erich and Uwe - you made a memorable night the best!

Barbeque and holiday photos

We arose later this morning. When Steph and Felix returned home last night from their birthday party we sat up sharing a bottle of wine and some of those Swiss pralines we had gotten in Bern. So by the time we were all out of bed this morning it was about 11:00 am. Felix has made scrambled eggs and bacon (speck) for breakfast and we follow it with smoked salmon and horseradish cream on fresh rolls. Orange juice and fresh coffee finish it off and we are all happy to take our time.

I make the Banana Mango Salsa and Steph makes a Dessert with Biscotti, Quark, Cream, and fresh Red Currants to take with us later.
This afternoon we have been invited with Steph and Felix to visit Tanja and Deitmar in Stuttgart for a Hawaiian afternoon and to see their holiday photos of their recent three week honeymoon in Hawaii. We were met at the door with leis and either a Mai Tai or a Pina Colada - Tanja had even gone to the trouble of making Michael a non-alcoholic Pina Colada!

We met Kathi again (who had Thai with us on Thursday), her husband Josef and their daughter Josefine - who made us miss Izabella enormously - and Tina and Lars as well as catching up with Tanja and Deitmar. Everyone is very friendly and it is not long before Josefine is happy to come to us for cuddles and plays. At eight months old she is an absolute delight. I can't remember the last time that a baby playing horsey on my foot was so much fun - and every time I stopped she would grip my leg with her little ones and jump up and down.

Then serving a fruit and cream dessert and fresh fruit flans, we settle down to view the video that Deitmar and Tanja made. Deitmar has done a wonderful job of editing together footage taken during their stay showing the resorts, canyons, beaches and volcanoes as well as them frolicking in the water, on a catarmaran or watching Bottlenose Dolphins at play and amazing sunrises and sunsets. And Tanja has managed to process enough photos to have a really nicely sized photo book printed that supports the video. Added to this were some extra photos taken underwater when they went snorkelling showing turtles (Leatherbacks I think) and lots of fish - not as pretty as the ones on the Great Barrier Reef, but still pretty stunning.

They had a great three weeks and it shows in their pics for sure. They are keen to tell us all about the trip and the make it all sound ever so inviting.

After our virtual trip to the Pacific, Deitmar (and later Lars) disappear to cook the barbeque. There are vegetables, chicken, turkey, steaks and sausages and these are complemented with a range of salads. Great German Potato Salad, tossed salad, Italian Tomato, Mozzarella and Basil salad, Mediterranean noodle salad, plus my Banana Salsa, and two herb butters to spread on dense ciabatta breads. It was truly delicious. All washed down with a wine local to the village where Josef and Kati live.

So we talk about exchange students and home hosting and all our collective travels. Between them, the group gave us some great tips for places to see on our travels. And when all the others have left for home and there is only Deitmar, Tanja, Steph, Felix, Michael and I, Tanja makes another round of Pina Coladas for the road. Obviously Michael is driving home!

Minor bit of excitement as we leave - out in the street there is an ambulance, emergency doctor car and police car. Quite a few of the locals are out watching for action, although we don't see any while we are leaving - we suspect it is a heart attack or a domestic - there is certainly no sign of a crash.

So we are just finalising the condensation of all our gear into one smaller suitcase (leaving the other one with the unnecessary things for the moment here with Steph and Felix) and re-packing the car. All ready for the second half of our adventure!

So a very BIG thank you to our new found friends here in South Germany - and yes guys, we will be back at the end of the year and we promise to visit!

Moving on from Blaye

It is time to move on. The week at Villa St Simon with Les (the crazy South African) has been great, but we have been going non-stop almost all week. Neither of us slept very well - probably because we knew we had to get going earlier this morning. We had hoped to hit the road about 9 - ha ha ha, we got to breakfast after 8 and by the time we drove off it was nearly 10. But we did get Les to show us his current project - he is renovating another building across the street to make self catering units available. He hopes to have it ready to go for summer 2010.

Lesley and Rob (the newly graduated and the newly passed exam youngsters who are studying in Cardiff, Wales [she is Canadian, he German]) are leaving as well and as they have been there much of the week, the farewell is a little longer.
It really was great to have some more time with Les - you are an amazing host mon and few would leave Villa St Simon without agreeing with me.

So off we set. I have set Kate to avoid the motorways so we are seeing rural France right at the grass roots. And by doing it this way, it is easy to duck down a side road if something takes our eye - which we do a few times today. Mind you, we still encounter the trucks - we have not seen this many since we left Spain!
Rural France offers wonderful examples of architecture over the years and today we are treated as we have been over the last week (and to a lesser extent during our last visit). The most stunning example today is the Chateau Hautefort – we don’t have time to go find it, but from a distance it is amazing! We also make a quick detour to Chateau d'Excideuil now an art gallery - we have not seen many of these English style fortified castles so far.

We are still travelling towards Lascaux when we see signs to the Villars Grotte. As it is only 7 kms off our route, we go down for a look, but bugger, it is lunchtime and the information centre/ticket sales for the grotte won’t be open for another hour (it is now 1 pm), so after a quick toilet stop, we push on.

The worst thing about our next visit is that we can’t bring you any photos. Lascaux II – the site of Cro-Magnon cave paintings is just outside Montignac. Now, picture in your mind’s eye, every cave drawing you have ever seen in a book or on TV. Now, throw that puny little image with its stick figures out – cos the real thing ain’t nothing like that! At Lascaux there is the greatest concentration of cave paintings anywhere in Europe. When the cave man had returned from the hunt, gazelle draped over his well muscled shoulders, and dragged his woman by her hair to the fire pit to prepare it for him; he laid down his club and with his mates, went in to the cave to hang out, and to express his artistic flair.

The paintings are huge and prolific and detailed and complex. I guess there are a number of things that hit your senses when you first walk in – firstly the volume of paintings, second the size of the painted area and of the individual paintings and then later, much later, you realise that they are only high on the walls and on the ceiling of the cave.

Our guide, a Frenchman speaking a heavily American accented English, gives us a wonderful insight into the world of these painters. As the colours they used are minerals, which you cannot date evidently, no one can be certain as to the age of the paintings. BUT they have dated candle holders and wicks, remnants of scaffolding, brush twigs and carved bones from the cave to 15,000 BC. (So this makes this cave the oldest evidence of human activity we have seen to date – only by 10,000 years!) The cave was discovered in the 1940s by a local teenager searching for his dog who fell down a hole. So for 14,956 years, the caves were undisturbed.

When the site was explored, they found more than 400 rocks that had been worn into candle holders, some still containing the rendered fat set with juniper wicks (juniper is one of the few timbers that burns without producing any smoke). They also found remnants of a scaffolding system. Cro-Magnon man was as tall as we are, but these paintings are out of the reach of anyone standing on the ground. They used five colours black (manganese dioxide), red (iron ore) yellow and brown (ochre) and white (clay). There are remains of ground powders, styli and stumps of ores. There was also a small amount of colour stained moss, indicating that they used a variety of techniques including sponging, outlining, spitting the mixed colour from their mouths as well as drawing.

And so to the paintings. They are all of single or grouped animals – cows, bison, horses, a variety of deer, one human figure and some felines. They are unbelievably realistic with depth and perspective being demonstrated by using the contours of the rocks and varying levels of darkness in the colours. They are life-like. When you look at the paintings, there is no way you can mistake what the subject is. Some are fully coloured, others partly, some are outlines with markings. There are repeated borders of horses or ponies, there is a bull (notable by having genitalia provided) with a number of cows. There are horses standing, nostrils flared, and others walking, trotting or at full gallop. There are deer with intricate (and slightly exaggerated) antlers. This is the veritable Sistine Chapel of cave paintings – figuratively and quite literally.

All in all we see more than 200 figures. Some are painted within other figures, others in front of or behind other paintings, and others standing lone and proud. The largest bison in the Bull Cave measures 8½ feet long from nosed to tail (that is almost 3 metres) and the largest cow is just 8 feet. The smallest pony is about 2 foot square. And they are all perfectly proportioned. See what I mean about throwing away old and erroneous thoughts. There is absolutely nothing small or insignificant about these works of art. And all of this was done by candle light! There is even one horse whose front is on a back wall and the rear is on the wall in front of it, separated by a cave tunnel!

There are also an abundance of symbols that no one has been able to decipher. Some are found at the beginning of a painted area, others at the end and some in all three areas. So much for the grunt!

In order to preserve the paintings, you do not go in to the actual cave, but rather an exact replica of it, contour for contour, bump for bump, rocky outcrop for rocky outcrop. And the paintings we see are exact replicas made using the same pigments and techniques. From the time of the discovery until they were permanently closed in the 1980s, a number of fungal diseases transported on the shoes or persons of visitors have attacked the real paintings. So, they survived for almost 15,000 years in pristine condition and when modern man bowled on in, came in his hordes and then arrogantly fitted air-conditioning, the paintings gave up their beauty to black spot and white spot diseases. Microbiologists are trying to cure them – particularly the white spot as presently the only way to remove it is to scrape it which also takes off the paint. There is a small museum attached with some of the artefacts found and a good explanation of the geology and the life of Cro-Magnon man as well as impressions of how they think that the paintings were done based on the items found.

It was a humbling and totally enlightening visit.

Dinner tonight at Hotel La Lascaux is amazing. They specialise in using regional produce and the results really show this to perfection. We eat at 7:30 pm (hey, it is now 10:40 pm and I just realise it is fully dark - amazing how much longer it stays light on the coast) as follows:
Entrees:
Foie gras de canard entier au naturel fait maison (Homemade duck foie gras natural) Michael
Coustillant de chevre chaud sur tomates confit (In wafer goat cheese with hot tomato confit) Maria
Mains:
Cuisse de canard confite, pommes de terre salardaise (Leg of duck confit, potatoes and salad) Michael
Fillet mignon de porc au fair caramelise a sauce soja (Fillet mignon of pork with a caramelized soy sauce) Maria
Desserts:
Glaces Indochine et Framboises (Indochina [lychee, jasmine, mango, strawberry] and Raspberry sorbet) Michael
Creme brulee (no need to explain!) Maria

The food is f-a-b-u-l-o-u-s! Heaven help the french chef we might find who cannot match the wonderful food we are having!!!

Will I still speak with you?

Or la di da to me! Gosh, not talking to you?! For me that would be wrist-slitting time!

OK so today was the other planned highlight of our week back in Bordeaux, for today is the day we are going to Le Médoc to visit Château Mouton-Rothschild. Our appointment is for 10 am so it is an early start on the 7:30 am ferry. Today is overcast and a little cooler - much more to my liking! No time for breakfast before we go, so once on the peninsula we drive down to Paulliac on the coast for coffee and criossants. Then we visit a local vin shop that sells all sorts of regional produce and local wines from a couple of euro each up to €1584 per bottle. I bought a bottle of Pastis Citron - sounded interesting - I'll let you know what it's like Fliss.

The last lot of my whisky has reached Australia and again, there is duty and tax payable. I got Gen to scan the letter for me and there is a statement on the bottom of the letter advising 'Postal gift concession for alcohol revoked 1 September 2008' so I won't bother to send too much more home.

The road to Paulliac is locally dubbed 'the Château road' due to the countless chateaux that face it from both sides of the road. This one Château Pinchon-Baron is probably one of the ones with the best street view and epitomises the grace of these estates, but there are literally countless others - all with immaculate lawns and gardens and beautifully kept buildings. I guess if you have a chateau (translated as a castle without a keep) on Le Medoc then you also have the means to upkeep it.

We pass the daily life of Le Médoc. There is machinery amoungst the vines, huge tractors with beams that cover up to five rows, spraying, or tilling the soil. Then there are also lots of manual workers whose main job at the moment is to remove by hand any leaves that cover the grapes, ensuring that all the grapes are exposed to the maximum possible sunshine. It seems strange that they discard the leaves to mulch rather than market them for culinary purposes (think dolmades!).

We have been slowly making our way through these chateaux to Château Mouton-Rosthchild. Our guided tour is booked for 10 am and when we arrive there is only two other cars in the car park. This is very neat - so neat that it kind of looks like a raked Japanese garden!

And the visitor centre is nowhere to be seen, hidden behind gardens. Not sure why, it is a beautifully appointed building in it's own right. But the gardens are beautiful with lots of herbs and flowers. There are one or two I can't identify - and neither can anyone else I ask. There has been a mix-up in the bookngs and the château were expecting us yesterday, however, after a few hurried phone calls, the girls at reception manage to find us an English speaking guide and off we set.

Now, Mouton Rothschild is one of the premier wine estates in Le Médoc. From humble beginnings in 1853, the Rothschild family has built an incredible empire based around the wine made from the grapes grown on their properties. Our guide takes us on a tour that includes an introductory video on a 3D screen, an explanation of the history, a tour of a representative grape plot (where the plot size of the crop is proportionate to the precentage grown on the estate), a tour of the new and old cellars and a quick dash into the 100m Barrel Hall which was being set up for a dinner. And because half of our little group are wine makers or agents, we get to listen to them quiz the guide on the technical aspects of the setup which was very interesting.

But the highlight of the tour for us is a visit to the Wine in Art Museum. The museum at Château Mouton Rothschild was opened by the Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1962. It features art displays including Persian beakers from the eighth and ninth centuries BC, Alsace tapestries, Ming vases, Delft pottery, Venetian glasswork and works by modern artists. The main hall is a former cellar. This museum is an amazing collection. While not accessible to the population at large, the family is to be commended that they make this amazing collection available to visitors to the Château. Phillipe Rothschild began the collection and his daughter Phillipina now continues the collection. They are very philanthropic in the Arts with many Rothschild collections in Europes greatest galleries. And the there are the artist labels where leading artists and other notable people are commissioned to paint the artwork for the Mouton Rothschild vintage each year.

Once we had drooled sufficiently in the museum (and felt the eyes of Chinese traders in one tapestry follow our every move!) we returned to the visitor centre where we got to taste the 2008 vintage - nice and full bodied with complex berry tones, but still carrying too much tanin - a good ager up to 10 years. I am told the average year's produce needs 10 years, but a great year needs 20 - go figure!! (help please Brian)

Then it was back to Paulliac and lunch at Le Salamandre. The clouds were really beginning to roll in and the air pressure was dropping quickly - a sure sign of rain. We managed to have our entrees and mains and were part way through desserts before the heavens opened. Most of us chose from the €13 menu and were thrilled with our choices:
Entrees:
Gizzard salad (Michael)

Goat cheese pizza (Maria)
Mains:
We both chose the Lamb Tagine
Desserts:
We both had (well, at least I started one) Creme Caramel

From here with the weather having turned to crap, and unable to get into Pichon-Longueville (as the boking had also ben made for yesterday) we opted to go back to Lamarque and await the ferry. We did not realise until we got there that we would have a 90 minute wait, so we do the best thing we can in the rain - nap! When the ferry gets here it is dead low tide and so the trip is a little longer than it was last time as we have to travel further downstream to avoid the mud banks before we can turn in for Blaye.

None of us are really hungry so the idea of a barbecue gets thrown out the window. Instead, we head to LeClerc for salad ingredients, fruit, cheese and cold cuts. Add a loaf of bread and presto - we have the makings of a light feast which we enjoy a little later in the evening with a few bottles of good wine. At 10 pm, Les suggests a game of petanque and five of them head across the road to join all the others at play. Remember, it is not getting dark until 11 pm!! Anyway, I'll sign off and let Michael tell you about the game because I was thoroughly knackered and went to bed.

Petanque is very similar to Bocce, whereas the only difference is that the swearing is in French and not Italian. That may be true, however the actual differences between the two games is (as explained to me):
Petanque is where players 'toss' the balls palm down whereas Bocce players 'bowl' the balls palm up.
Petanque balls are always made of metal, about the size of an orange and hollow. Bocce balls are larger (grapefruit size) and made usually of wood or resin and are of varying bright colours.
The Bocce court should be smooth and different variations as to court size and layout; whereas Petanque players prefer any surface and preferably uneven terrain to make it more challenging.
Oh, and one last point as it was arbitrarily explained to me: 'Petanque' is a derivative of the Provincal French - pieds tanquer meaning to anchor or tie-down. Petanque balls are tossed from a stationary position, whereas with Bocce players run up to their bowling line.

Anyhow, we head across to the park around 10:10pm where there are about eight other games of Petanque being played - a veritable tournament. The French take their game veeerrry seriously as I was to find out....

Now, Petanque is played with two teams each with either 1-6 players. Teams with 1-4 players, each team member use 3 balls each. Teams with 5-6 players team members use 2 balls each. Considering there were only five of us this posed a 'red herring', how were the teams to be decided? Diplomatically of course; we each tossed a ball in turn and the the teams were sorted according to the distance thrown - if you can work that one out.....
Anyhow, I was the 'ring-in' so I was at the mercy of their honesty...and honorable people they are indeed. So, two teams consisting of 2 and 3 players accepted, and all players to play using 3 balls each.

Well, we had intended to play only one game, however, HONOUR was at stake this night. Now, I had mentioned earlier the French take their Petanque seriously - and my team-mate was Nikki, and she was just as passionate about the game as were the men. By 10:50pm Nikki and I were lagging by 5 points - the score being 6-11; and Nikki being less than impressed. The French expletives were being released at a furious rate as were the Aussie curses! By 11:05pm we creamed the bastards and wiped the smirk off their dials.

It was 10:56pm and Nikki's turn to toss...tension mounting...concentration was extending like lightening bolts...then - thud, down went Nikki's last ball and everyone was holding their breath as the toss knocked away two of the opposing teams' balls and came to bestow a kiss against the 'jack'! 10:58pm and the other team attempted to consolidate, but the pressure being as it was their tosses turned into right 'Tossers' - the balls going in every direction. The game being against the wire, it was my turn to toss my remaining two balls (...yes, I still speak with a deep voice!) and I was the last to toss. I walked up to the line, surveyed the field and fired torpedo #1. Lobbing beautifully, the ball returned to earth amongst a group of balls - CRACK! - my lobb knocked two of the opposing balls out of the loop which pushed Nikki's other two closer the 'jack'!

11:01pm, and it was my last toss...torpedo #2 - FIRE - a handsome piece of work as my silver sphere rolled gently up to the 'jack' - a ball's length away. WE WON! We were called cheats(?), so I called them 'pricks' - I have no idea what Nikki called them, it sounded pretty good though. Anyhow, as I stated - HONOUR was at stake, and now it was to make amends. An evening which started out as one game of Petanque extended into three, with the last game ending at 12:55am. An epilogue...? Petanque I have to admit could become extremely addictive and not taken too seriously. The evening's final score....Nikki and I won the first two games, however we got creamed in the third and final - 5-13!