What is the saying? Ah yes, bread and WINE!

Once we get out of bed and open the very efficient blockout blinds we are greeted with an overcast morning, but with spots of clear skies. It is meant to get to 22 degrees with the chance of showers, but given we are going to winery-hop in the Tamar Valley today, we are not at all concerned. 

We are still preparing our own breakfasts - me for one will never tire of these amazing raspberries (almost finished 😭) to add to our fruit toast. Not only does it save money, it also saves time - which is our main priority. There are a number of people in the carpark below us eating delicacies from the Rosevears bakery. We can vouch for the freshness and tastiness!

The days left are gallopping by. There is still so much to see and do, and so little time to do it in. Breakfast underway, I grab the Wine Trail booklet to decide on 2 - 4 wineries to visit. Now, Gen is no a big win drinker and to date has restricted her choices to very sweet varieties such as Moscato. So today might be a bit testing for her. For the last few years, my driving restrictions have meant that I have been able to continue to imbibe as now, there is always someone else doing the driving! But on this trip, I am feeling a little sorry for Gen as she is doing all the driving. On previous holidays, I have always enjoyed being the one behind the wheel as I am sure some of my past travelling compatriots can attest! Not mentioning anyone Helen and Donna!!

Anyway, this morning we leave Rosevears and are heading towards the south. As we join the highway a few kilometres from the hotel, the first thing that we see on the road is the signage advising that there are cyclists in the area. We know first hand, having followed a number of cyclists for kilometres in areas where passing visibiity is poor. The yellow road sign shows two cyclists riding abreast. And that is exactly how they ride. Too bad the powers that be did not think to depict those same two cyclists RIDING IN SINGLE FILE! But for every storm there is a silver lining and the silver lining to being trapped behind cyclists driving at about 20 kph, is that you have more time to be observant of the little things that you pass. Like the tired agapanthus, drooping along the borders of garden beds, bereft of their colour and vim , tired and spent. Or the way that the clouds part momentarily to allow the sunlight to dance across the waters of the body of water that is the Tamar River, and not some bay. Like the extra detail that the man cleaning the exterior of his truck is doing. Instead of just using his gerni to water blast the behemoth that no doubt provides his living, he is up on a step ladder, hose in one hand, rag in the other, polishing the chrome around the edge of the windscreen - that's dedication. Like the passion and power of the footy players on the field that we hurry past (once we're passed the cyclist!)

This morning I took the last of my Panadol Osteo. This is probably the gentlest of the drugs I take daily and is useful as it allows me to limit the stronger pain-killers to an as-need basis. Now, given the problems that we had trying to fill my Qld written prescriptions, we are not sure whether we will be able to buy them over the counter, or whether we will need to get another script written here in Tasmania. Turns out, this is an easy one. You can buy them over the counter, with no record taken, AND for about 2/3 the cost of supply in Queensland where a record is kept of supply and questions asked if you need them more frequently than what a pharmacist might think you should. Go figure, there is no rhyme or reason to the lack of consistency. We decide that before we leave Launceston that we will buy a couple of extra boxes as spares.

So we are now through the City Centre. We are heading south on the Tamar Valley Wine Trail. Last night I had a quick look through the Wine Trails Tasmania 2022 booklet that we picked up a few days ago. The booklet divides the state into four major wine regions. For each region, it explores the region geographically, climatically and soil typing and the impact these have on the fruit and resultant wines, as well as supporting producers and non-wine things to see and do. The Tamar Valley includes the Tamar Valley, Pipers River and Launceston. There are 17 wineries listed in the Tamar Valley region, and we do not have enough time to do them all, so I have selected:
1. Josef Chromy Wines in Relbia (most southerly and because I really enjoyed the glass I had at Stillwater Restaurant last night; 
2. Clover Hill Wines in Lebrina in the north east of the region as they specialise in sparkling wines;
3. Pipers Brook Vineyard north of Clover Hill and the one i had heard of before visiting the region; and finally
4. Jansz Tasmania which is adjacent to Pipers Brook.
A number of the unvisited wineries are open by appointment only and we do not have the time to commit. I am just glad to get to these ones!

At Josef Chromy, you must book a tasting, which we have not. The only vacancy they have is for 2:15pm today, and so a little dejectedly, I turn to leave. But once a salesman, always a salesman and the lady who we had been speaking with had another alternative (of course!). While a tasting was not possible, we could sit on the terrace and have a glass of wine with a cheese plate. I am so glad we did. I convinced Gen to swap out her Moscato for a Reisling and I had a Chardonnay. The cheese plate was amazing - a Brie, a blue and a cheddar from the region along with some of the amazing leatherwood honey (we are on the hunt for some to bring home) fruits fresh and dried, candied nuts, home-made crispbread and dried fruit-bread. The wine was truly delicious and Gen conceded that perhaps with a bit of training, her palate might be able to be trained to enjoy other wines! Watching the tastings underway, I can understand the need for bookings. They are held for no more than 4 people per wine advisor who sits with them in conversation rather than just presenting wines by a glass. They walk the grounds, explaining the varietals and the outcomes. As well as wine and cheeses, Tasmania also grows a wide variety of nuts and just beside us, beyond the path is a beautiful hazelnut tree. Like many quality producers, the grounds are just beautiful. Manicured lawns are dotted with flower beds and named mature trees. The aerator pond is home to a black swan pair and any number of ducks. There is a clutch of native hens (Turbo chooks as Gen calls them) scratching away around the base of the vines for any wriggly tasty morsels.

On to Clover Hill, a 45 minute drive away. We skirt the forests on the drive and can smell the leatherwood on the air. It is such a dominating scent and explains the abundance of bees that we see everywhere we stop the car. The Cellar Door for Clover Hill comes in to view after you turn a corner and pass a huge tree. Architecturally speaking, it is stunning! I would not be surprise to find the architect was the same as the one used at MONA. Stark and striking, it is still sympathetic to its environment. The hard materials - sandstone, weathered steel and timber are softened by crushed sandstone paths, lawns filled (I assume deliberately) with clover, and trees and shrubs in the grey tones of sage and olive groves. We walk through HUGE automatic glass doors to find a tasting room cum lunch room - they do a shared cheese plate or a six course degustation menu only - that looks out over the vines down into the valley beyond. The autumn afternoon light glows gold over the changing colours of the trees and vines - Gen comments often how she loves the changing colours of nature here in autumn, as do I. There are also a number of beautiful bronze statues - a farmer and his dog just inside the front gate and next to the cellar door is a stunning large wedge-tail eagle landing, talons extended as she reaches her perch.
Tastings here do not require a booking, and are presented as a more 'traditionl' tasting. As Gen is driving we decide that we will share a tasting as the full six-sample tasting is equivalent to 1.6 standard drinks (and she has already had one glass). To compensate, she also orders a pot of French Earl Grey Tea - her favourite that she has not had since we left home.  The shared cheese plate is very different to the one we finished only a little while ago. There is a french baked brie with shaved pumpkin curls, a creamy blue and an aged Bay of Fires cheddar.
Clover Hills specialise in sparkling wines and the standard tasting is 6 wines. We begin with a non-vintage Rose and finished with a Cuvee Exceptionnelle that was splendid. There were two other wines not included in the tasting in the sparkling range plus a rage of still wines. But it is sparkling wines that are their speciality. I just can't pass up the chance to taste their not-included Exceptionnelle Blanc de Blancs so purchase a glass. Great move! Now I may have (or may not have, asif!!) joined their Cellar Door Club for a minimum of two deliveries per annum. The first delivery is timed to reach home about the same time we will, so remember, keep Saturday 23 April free!!!! I'm having a celebration of all things Tasmanian. 

Our next stop was at Pipers Brook Vineyard - the only Tamar Valley winery that I had heard about before arriving in the region. Their cellar door sits dead in the centre of the vineyard. You weave in and out of the rows of un-named vines following small timber signage. As we pull in to the carpark, there are a couple of families. Gen comments that she can't understand why people would bring children to such a venue - and really, I have to agree with her. There is little to keep a child interested and occupied, and we all know what bored kids are like!
By now we have had our fill of cheeses for the day and are actually craving something sweet. The kitchen at Nadines at Pipers Restaurant is closing, but they do offer a Brownie with berries, cream and ice-cream. It was just what we were looking for! This cellar door is much more casual and they offer a bit of everything. You self select the wines you wish to try which are listed under red, white and then sparkling, which to me seems back to front!  Again, given that Gen is driving, we opt to share one wine-tasting. I select the Ninth Island Rose sparkling, then the Ninth Island Reisling and Pipers Tasmania Pinot Grigio to be followed by the New Certan Pinot Noir. That in particular was a very nice drop. I bought a bottle to share with Andrew and Meredith when they arrive at the end of next week, and a bottle of the Pinot Grigio. Hope that they are in a tasting mood - lol!

We could have also visited Jansz Tasmania as they share the land with Pipers Brook, but the cellar doors are closing, so we miss out.

Still, I am comfortably mellowed and am happy to head back into Launceston and Rosevears. We have not yet eaten at the restaurant here and have decided that we will do so tonight. The trip back seems longer than the same one out, and Gen is tiring of the driving (and being in and out of the car repetedly). While we were at Pipers Brook, we phoned and booked dinner for tomorrow night at Alina at Penny Royal. We are doing a Tamar River Cruise and will explore a little of the Cataract Gorge site after the cruise. Our time here is fast coming to an end. Off to the Bay of Fires on Tuesday before Freycinet on Wednesday and then back to Hobart.

Just after 6pm we head down to the Rosevears Hotel, below the units, and walk through to the restaurant. We did not book, as we didn't want to have to cancel a booking a second time if we couldn't fit dinner in! There are a few cars in the car-park, but nothing like that of Friday or last night. Still, the waiter explains that they are almost fully booked and that he can only offer us a table in the rear and up a couple of steps. No problem - we can make that work. The menu is a mix of restaurant and pub food. I choose to have a steak, my first since I have arrived in tasmania. Knowing that I won't be able to finish it, Gen chooses a Marguerite Pizza. Just as well she did, because I could not finish all my meal. The steak, pan-fried field mushrooms with mash and wilted spinach was delicious. Gen enjoyed what was left of the steak. Desserts looked too good to pass up and I had a Turkish Delight Pavlova with cream and persian fairy floss (a tiny amount) and Gen chose the Salted Caramel Popcorn Sundae. Both were deliciously sickly.

Its off to bed now, we have an earlier start tomorrow!

Room upgrade - no thanks we'll keep the one we have

Hello world.

After hurting my ankle last night, we decided to have our rest day (planned for later in the week), today.  We went down to the restaurant for breakfast and I went over to reception to extend our booking by a day.  And that was where the challenge started!  There is a conference booked in to the hotel and they were very full.  There are no bookings left in the price bracket we came in on (via booking.com), so we have to pay a higher price. A much higher price.

Conversation with the receptionist went as follows:
"Not to worry madam, the new room will be far more comfortable and larger."  
"Larger?  Who needs larger?  This room is more than enough. Can't we stay in the room we have?"
"But it would mean a downgrade!"
"But we won't need to move all our stuff."
"Oh . . . ok.  I'll have to upgrade someone else."  
He struggled with the concept that we were happy with what we had!!

So we have had a very quiet day.
Slept late, breakfasted late.
Washed some smalls.
Had an afternoon nap.
Watched a movie - The Aftermath.  One that we had both been wanting to see, and bonus was that we could choose English language.

Planned the next four days in central Stockholm.  Staying on an island with view across the Old Town and modern Stockholm City.  Planned transport.


Ate a late supper Cheese Plate with Fig Jam and Creme Brulee washed down with a Strongbow each.

Quiet day.  Happier foot.  Rejuvenated us!  
Glad we didn't take the wrong corridor by mistake. 
Actually three different corridors.
End of story.

Food Glorious Food

Today we had a quiet day. We could have taken a walking tour of Trondheim, but instead had decided to just do our own thing. Trouble was,when we docked we then learned that it is a 20 minute walk into the centre of town. Bugger that after such a full day yesterday. We rolled over and went back to sleep. Missed breakfast - but believe us, that is no problem- all some people seem to do is eat!

Had a lazy morning, washed hair etc. Last night Donna had taken the clothes to the laundry and didn't actually get into bed until late.

Lots of people were off boat today,so it was easy for us to make the first sitting for lunch just after 12 noon. The food on board is really good. Even the smorgasbord would rate a mention in a foodie mag.

Lunch today consisted of fresh tomato soup - the sort that still has colour and substance and taste, followed by salads, salmon, pork neck and smoked ham, didn't have hot dishes, desert was lemon sago cream pudding, lots of berries and brownie.
As we leave the bistro, we decide to upgrade to the a la carte restaurant option tonight, a decision that we later are pleased to have made!

This afternoon we spent a bit of quiet time up on one of the viewing decks, learned that we were soon to pass one of Norway's more unique lighthouses and for the first time, leave the safe waters of the fjords and the island channels and head out into the open water of the North Sea.  And yes,you could tell the difference!  The swell increased almost immediately that we cleared the last bit of land.  Good time for a nanna nap before dinner. The lulling and rocking a little more determined than before!

Tonight we have booked dinner for 8 pm. We get down to the Kysten Restaurant which only has a few diners left inside. We are shown to our table by the very attentive Malin - wow, this girl knows how to provide excellent service.

We are given a menu to peruse. Choices, choices, choices, although Malin provides guidance as needed thankfully.

So, these were our choices:

Starter - Maria - King Crab Ravioli in Reindeer bouillon with root vegetables.

A combination of clear, cold waters, a cold climate and careful,individual handling, provide Norway with outstanding King Crab all year round. The giant red King Crab was discovered for the first time in Norway in the Varanger Fjord in 1977 and today, it is a permanent part of the marine ecosystem in norther parts of Norway. Even though it's invasive and tends to displace other species, it has become a highly-appreciated element of modern Norwegian cuisine and an important export product. Consuming it supports the fishing industry and helps to keep the stock and its spread somewhat reduced.

This dish was originally created for the re-opening of the renovated Svalbard Hotel "Funken Lodge", located in one of the world's most remote populated areas. This small but ambitious Arctic hotel was originally built as an accommodation and dining area for employees of the Store Norske Spitsbergen Coal Company. Today, Funken Lodge is a small but ambitious hotel with modern comfort in historic surroundings.

Starter - Donna - Norwegian Scallops from Frøya with Cauliflower variation with fennel and chorizo from Tind in Stranda.

Given a solid green light from the World Wildlife Fund's list of endangered species, the Norwegian Scallop is a perfect combination of exclusivity and sustainability.  the delicious mollusc, with its tender texture and mild oceanic flavour, can be found along the vast stretches of the Norwegian coast, where they thrive tremendously well in the fresh, cold clear-blue water. Norwegian scallops are fished by hand by divers directly in their natural habitat and the environment footprint is therefore negligible.

The cautious, agile mollusc is, for many, regarded as the utmost delicacy of the sea. You really should try them!

Main - Maria - Tenderloin Beef from Trøndelag with fried savoy cabbage, tomato confit, tender mushroom, red wine sauce and victory onion pesto.

Cattle are of great socio-economic importance, but not only for their milk and meat. Grazing cattle also guarantee versatile habitats. Ecological diversity and a varied  ecosystem is a prerequisite for a nature in balance.
Norway has a vast coast and impressive mountains, but it is also a grassy country.  Grass that is left to grow without interference slowly loses its ability to bind carbon dioxide and after a while becomes a hostile environment for important insects such as pollinating bumblebees, as well as their coexisting plants. Cows grazing the green fields of Norway ensure open and thriving landscapes.
In Norway, legislation decrees that every cow, without exception, must be assured a minimum of eight weeks of free grazing every summer, with each cow having its own personal health certificate card. It is a fact that Norway has the lowest rate of antibiotic use in livestock production in Europe. These laws were created to ensure that every cow is recognized for its natural need for movement, and that the general stock stay healthy and sound in a sustainable long-term perspective.

Main - Donna - Arctic Char from Sigerfjord with cabbage, asparagus, raw marinated fennel and white wine sauce.

The Artic Char is only found in Arctic waters and was one of the first fish to populate Norwegian waters after the last Ice Age. Through its lifecycle, it migrates from fresh water to sea water, giving the meat a unique taste, texture and colour.  While most of you are sleeping, we dock at Sortland every time we pass by and pick up fresh Arctic Char from Sigerfjord.  The water systems of Vesterålen, with their cold, deep waters and rivers, are perfect for these diadromous fish.

While we wait for our meal, we get a chance to look around. The ambiance is discreet and very tasteful - timber abounds including the lightshades and carvings of driftwood on show. Starched white tablecloths and really nice cutlery and glassware set the standard.

Dessert - Maria - Plum and Rhubarb Tarte with vanilla ice cream from Gangstad Gård

Up here in the north, winter is a long, dark and cold affair. Naturally, any sign of winter's end, no matter how small and discrete it may be, is welcome. Rhubarb is one of those fortuitous bringers of good news. When small, pinkish-coloured rhubarb starts to sprout in the garden, just as the snow melts away, things speed up.  Before you know it, the first harvest is possible and a home-made pie, tarte,marmalade or 'krem' can be enjoyed, that is if you don't choose to freeze them to enjoy them during the dark season as a sweet reminder of a long-lost summer. Another advantage of rhubarb is that it is full of vitamins and minerals.

Dessert - Donna - Chocolate Terrine with white chocolate creme made from Nýr from Grøndalen Gård

Nýr is made from cultured, organic whole-milk from well-treated cows (owned by the family of Grøndalen Olsen, who have received prizes for their focus on animal welfare and who claim that the cows are humourous, whatever they mean by that!)  The production is traditional. Cultured and pasteurised milk is carefully heated up and then left to drain on large filtration sheets.  When the consistency has become somewhat firm and creamy, the Nýr is ready. The result is a low-fat, sugar-free cream cheese with a high level of healthy protein. Hurtigruten is proud to say that we can base our terrine on such a sustainable and leading locally sourced product.

The meal was everything that is sounds and then some. We drank a Pinot Grigio from Veneto region (Italy) and finished with Norwegian coffee. Sublime.

And before we left tonight, we made sure to book in for the King Crab dinner in two days time!