When luxury is not is cracked up to be

Happy birthday for me. The last two years has certainly taught me to appreciate every day I get on this side of the ground.

Our villa (no longer calling this one a cabin!) is luxe all the way.
The bed is high with a mattress that is about 50cm high. I have to do a little hop to get up on it! Gen had put the electric blanket on for me we first got in last night, so despite the wind that we can hear swirling gently around outside, we are toasty warm.

Turns out that we are probably a little too warm. We got into bed, and within minutes I am asleep. Gen too slept well initially, but woke at 4:30am, and was unable to get back to sleep. She thought it might have been because of my snoring! Moi? Surely not! We know that this is a rare occcurrence, but whatever, she couldn't get back to sleep. Just inside the door to the Villa is a long bench with a cushion running its length. I told Gen that I would happily sleep there, but she wouldn't hear of it. Instead, this was where she took herself, a couple of pillows and the most exquisite cable-knitted blanket (it is too large to call a throw). Looking into the black expanse of the night outside, she says that she could see darker splotches, so pointing her phone she captured pictures of 5 Pademelons within touching distance of the villa! She sleeps for another 3-4 hours here. I guess we are just not used to luxury!

This morning we are off back over to Adventure Bay to take one of the Pennicott Widerness Cruises - a 3 hour sojourn into the waters off the Island. The jetty is right at one end of the main road network. We drive through sleepy little hamlets full of little tin and timber shanties and 1950/60s beach holiday houses that are slowly being crowded out by the brash newcomers with their endless sheets of glass and timber. Sadly we count 7  animals newly deceased as roadkill. We have been warned by all the locals of the dangers of driving between dusk and dawn and on our way home from the supermarket yesterday afternoon we carefully watched three pademelons and a wallaby hesitate and then jump back into the bush.  

Even now, well into autumn, there are enough people booked for this cruise that two boats are taken out. Our deckhands are Dean and Ben. They are confident and very able, checking on everyone, all belted in, caped up and had their 2 ginger tablets - swallow with water, not chew they are trying to instruct an Indian family. Charades works all over the world! We begin our journey with a bit of drama - the Indian older man (grandpa) slipped between the jetty and the boat - lightning fast reflexes saw Dean and Ben grab him, but they were obviously shaken and almost had him undressed to make sure he was not injured. After a few minutes of checks, they again checked everyone else and then we drew slowly away from the jetty - as though letting the apron strings slowly out. The the full force of the three massive engines were unleashed and nose up, we sped out into the Bay. The two boats weave in and out up and over each others wakes and its not too long before the dolphins arrive to play in the waters. Obviously the cruise operators and these wild animals are well-known to each other. The engines are cut and passengers race for the optimum spots to capture photos and videos. Dean explains that with smartphones, the best way to capture footage is with video and then take screenshots for particular photos you want. Most of us are clueless, but he came to the rescue explaining how to do this for Android and iPhones! Ah, to be young again and able to keep up with the constant changes in technology!

Finally with the fill of dolphins, we resume our seats and buckle up again. Ben and Dean are quite the team, very relaxed, treading the boards constantly chatting to the passengers, sharing stories and groan-worthy dad jokes! They explain that we will be hugging the coast on the trip out, and will journey back in the open waters. Dean in particular is a wealth of knowledge and stories. A lifetime local, it is very obvious that he is passionate about this environment and enjoys sharing it with others. He explains that here at the northern end of Adventure Bay we are travelling passed Jurassic period basalts that are 'breathing' rocks reflecting the motion of the ocean. Over the millenia since they were thrust up through the earth, the rocks have been continuously pounded by the relentless sea, slowly but ever so indeterminably worn away. Caves are worn into the occasional softer striations- initially just small openings growing eventually into larger, deeper or taller openings. 

We move in closer, watching the swell work its magic, rolling with that swell, marvelling at the colours in the lichens, at the size of the Bull Kelp (Kombu) that hangs tight at the tide line, floating above, then dashing under the water. There are a myriad of small crustaceans (limpets and barnacles) that cling on the the rock for dear life. Dean relates stories of finding abalone in the same area. He warned us against over-indulging in any one sitting as they have a laxette-like side effect! Moving further south, Dean manoeuvres the boat into some of the cave openings, we traverse the Tasmanian equivalent of the Bay of Islands. The basalt cliffs tower 294m above us. You need to lean out from the shelter of the boat canopy to even see the top of them. Wind and water have combined to form tall, symmetrical columns that sit tightly beside each other locked in an eternal battle with the elements.

When a cave continues to be eroded, you end up with an arch and even loner erosion causes the arch to fall, leaving two columns. We pass through one spectacular set of rock columns known as the Guardians of the Sea - with a regal aura. The column further out wears a 'crown' and is called the King Column and his mate, the Queen Column is slightly smaller and appears the have long locks of hair. Its amazing what a story can add to your imagination! It is near here that Dean pulls nose in close to the landmass and it doesn't take long for us to realise that he is showing us a blowhole. The incoming tide increases the force of the blowhole, spraying us all with a fine mist. Its about now, that I can start to sense the timing of this swell. Without my crutches, I have decided not to try to stand up during this cruise, and so while others are rushing around trying to get the prized shot with water spray and mist, I am sitting quietly, 'hearing' the sound of the blowhole. There is a deep thump just before the water jets into the air, and then a tickling as the water falls back to its bed. Quite cathartic. Dean explains that this is not technically a true blowhole as there is no upper opening. Rather, it is an underwater cave - the water is pushed into the cave, hits the rear wall and then is shot back out the cave entrance. Call it what you will, describe it as you must, it is still a spectacular sight.

We cruise (well, motor) further south - checking out colonies of gannets and comorents, drying their wings on rocky outcrops off the shore. Their guano is that acidic that nothing can grow where they rest, and the rock is eventually bleached to a stark white painted look. At last we are nearing the extreme end of today's journey and we can smell the next wildlife long before we can see them. While Australian Fur Seals are beautiful to look at, they positively stink - especially when they are in a colony.  And this colony are all males - and we all know what a bunch of teen and young adult boys are like when it comes to cleanliness and housekeeping! Well, these are no different. The females live further north and the boys live in this area for 9 months of the year, practising gluttony, pride and finally lust. Its a chest-beating thing. The alpha male gets the pick of the girlfriends. The more girlfriends, the greater the progeny and the survival of his genetic line. We spent the better part of 20 minutes just watching (and smelling) them. They are amazingly beautiful creatures.

Finally, the boat is turned north and we head back to the safe anchorage of Adventure Bay. We went as far south as Tasman Island, Tasman Head and The Friars - all of which sit in the souther tip of the Tasman Sea and close to the Southern Ocean. The trip back is cold and windy, and bumpy. We are travelling off-shore, riding the ridges and troughs for a 'smoother' ride - that is, not rising across them. The journey back is just short of an hour and in this time I gradually add:
* doing up my new multi-layered weather jacket
* my face mask (to protect my lips as much as I can)
* my beanie
* my gloves; and finally
* zipping my coat up OVER all the rest and my head.  I was freezing. Literally!

But what an exhilarating way to spend 3 hours and a decent chunk of money. Well worth it and I would recommend it to anyone. You can watch a video of this trip here.

So, half the day is gone. It is now 2pm and we only have today to explore the rest of the South Bruny Island. We haven't eaten since our croissant/roll this morning, so we set out  to visit the Bruny Island Premium wines, Cider and Restaurant. Luckily we arrive at 2:25pm as lunch is only served until 2:30pm, so we quickly find a table and choose from the menu. Gen selects the  Sliders and ciders - mushroom and haloumi, lamb rosemary, salmon avocado with three ciders to taste - Ginger and Apple, Blapple (Blackberry and Apple) and Cherry and Apple - her fave. I buy a bottle of 2019 unwooded Chardonnay and Pork Rillettes with warmed bread to eat with it. Both were delicious, but the star was the Bruny Honey & cinnamon crème bruleè - forest fruits, Scottish shortbread - now THAT was delicious!! Having finished our repast, and purchased some providores from their selection of ciders, jams, chutneys and smoked salmon (to have with our 'fridge' bread), we thought we would drive down and have a look at the Bruny Island Lighthouse.

In this hire car we are not allowed to drive on unsealed roads, so having set out to explore, we soon hit a gravel road and make the sad decision not to proceed. The other attratcion of interest was Inala - the Jurassic Garden. It was only a few days ago that Justine, who is house-sitting and cat-caring for us, sent us a link to this site. It was a very interesting collection of shells, fossils and bones all beautifully labelled and displayed. Outside was a very substantial garden that primarily focusses on jurassic and later period plants. There is also a very extensive collection of native and non-native plants, all grouped by family. The path meanders down the planted hill and by the time we reach the bottom, it is clear that the operators are reading to close for the day. No time to amble back up the path, so we just took shortcuts through the grassed surrounds. 

All in all, another very busy and satisfying day as we arrive back at the Hotel Bruny Lodge and our villa. We did not think to pull the curtains as we left, so the room is very warm as the west-facing glass has heated the room all afternoon! So with the door left open, the room is cooled and the first Pademelon of the night appears. We hope that it is a really clear night so we can see the amazing night sky here.

Thanks for all the well-wishes. Your love and support mean a lot to me.  See you again tomorrow folks.

Caves and conflicts and cars

Yesterday when we checked in here at the Guesthouse Franjkovic, there was a notice on the wall stating that the Babac cave was the underground equivalent to the grandeur of the Plitvice Lakes above ground. We had initially thought to go and take a look at them yesterday before the worsening weather saw us hurry to see the lakes.

We leave the guesthouse where Lillian and her husband made us very comfortable in a large ground floor room (yay, no stairs) and saw us on our way with a large jar of their own honey. We are headed in to the Croatian capital Zagreb today to have a look before Donna flies out at some ungodly hour on Monday morning. Can't believe that her two weeks is almost up!

The day is still damp although thankfully a little warmer than yesterday and we all have dry clothes :-). We program Kate for Zagreb avoiding the motorways - I mean, there is no real benefit to getting anywhere in the wet. We head north on a road that is a highway but thankfully it is not restricted by view detracting safety barriers or divisions or huge sound shields on the roadsides. So we get to see lots of the countryside as we travel, a little slower than normal to take account of the weather conditions.

And just a little time after we leave the guesthouse we see the signs for Barac's Cave. Well hey, gee - at least it will be dry in the cave huh! We turn off and travel the 7.8 kms along a narrow winding road up into the hills and then down the other side. At the parking place it is still 500 m to the cave down a rocky path. Taking the umbrellas as a precaution against the heavy clouds bursting down on us, off we head. At the base of the path is a kiosk where you register for the cave tour. Turns out that they are only operated on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at this time of the year - thank goodness it is Friday! BUT, it is still a climb up the hill in the forest to get to the mouth of the cave. Michael goes to suss it out and comes back to say that the path is uneven on timber log steps with lots of autumn leaf litter. Well - I know my limitations, so I walk back up to the car disappointed not to see the cave. But the most important thing is that Donna gets to see inside her first cave - I had not realised that she had never been in a cave before. I am nice and warm and dry in the car, reading, when they come back up the hill under umbrellas in the rain that has started to fall again. A good stop!

The report back to me? Spectacular for Donna and even Michael was impressed. Caverns with stalactites, stalagmites and stalacnites (columns), a mound of guano (bat droppings) that was over 300 years old in a cave system that houses more than 10,000 bats all balanced by stories of prehistoric bears with teeth up to 20 cms long and a human skeleton and military machinery next to it that appears to date it to one of the wars. Turns out that the shell of the cave is very thin with tree roots growing through and they think that the next major shake could bust another entry through into the cave. However both Michael and the guide concur that our Jenolan Caves back at home are far more impressive.

So we head back to the highway and north again for Zagreb. We are stunned at the number of buildings even out here in the rural countryside that show the damage of the Croatian War for Independence, known locally as the Croatian Homeland War. We can't imagine what it must be like to either be evacuated in the time of war from a peaceful life in the country, or worse still, to be in your home as it is being fired on or shelled. In every town we pass through there are multiple buidlings - civic as well as homes that are pock marked or have holes in walls from mortars. Some buildings are abandoned with large holes or collapsed roofs, or holes that have broken right through walls. Others though are still being lived in - even with this daily reminder of horrors that are still so recent - the war was resolved in 1995 - my god, that is in OUR recent past.

It is so sad to see the evidence of intolerance town after town after town.
When we reach the towns that make up Karlovac - especially Turanj the damage is the greatest we have seen. We pass a collection of military hardware - tanks, guns, planes in a park but are passed before I can turn in. So we swing back around to stop and have a look, despite the rain. Despite the rain, Michael gets out to have a better look.

The park is a collection of the carcasses of buildings, tanks, APC's, pontoon carrier and aircraft. This is a forlorn place, I suppose more so due to the persistent downpour and to a banner which proudly lauds: "Location of the Collection Future Museum of the Homeland War". These relics are the remnants of a struggle which ravaged this beautiful country between 1991-1995.

The buildings are just shells, pockmarked by bullet and shell impacts; walking through them is eerie to say the least. I won't dwell too long on this visit, as the signatures of the "Homeland War" is evident throughout Croatia. However, I will state from the four days I spent touring Belgium, the Somme Valley and visiting the remnants of the 1914-18 conflict and those forests of marble has provided me with a different perspective on military sites and monuments.

Michael returns to the car, and we prepare to move onto Zagreb. Well, we weren't going anywhere - the car wouldn't start! Stupid me has left the headlights on which had obviously sapped most of the available power to turn the engine over. I guess it was light enough for us not to notice they were on while we sat in the car waiting for Michael who was gone for only about 10 minutes. We had interior lights, but as for momentum we weren't moving. Michael sets off in search of assistance, and heads for a cafe/bar located next to the park.

The proprietor speaks very little English, however Michael makes himself understood that we were in need of help. The proprietor gets on his mobile and phones a friend who will be around in "5-10 minuta". Anyhow, this fellow (who also speaks no English) turns up in a blue VW Combi, and after much gesticulating and hand signals 'jump starts' our car. He indicates we should leave the engine running '5 minuta', then he disappears into the cafe/bar. Michael follows him and shouts him a beer or two to follow the earlier one we could smell on his breath when he arrived. Our gallant knight reappears and checks the car again, Michael slips him a handsome reward for his trouble whereby the fellow sets off back to where he came and we resume our journey. Such accommodating and helpful people in a land that is so beautiful. Lets hope that conflict in this part of the world is done - just look how lovely it is.

I'm not taking any more chances at this point of being stuck on back roads, so on to the motorway for the last 50 kms to Zagreb. Its not long before we are driving through the outskirts. Lots of high density apartment blocks reminiscent of those we saw in Slovakia. They are grey, drab, appear to be covered in mould or with concrete render peeling off. What is it about these countries that use cheap render? Or is there some hidden nasty that we are breathing in that causes concrete cancer????

We don't actually go in to the city en route to the Hotel Paradise. And as we check in the 'boss' (owner?) tells us that his daughter is living in Sydney and that he talks to her on Skype regularly - seems like nearly everyone has a link to us all!
The hotel staff recommend the nearby Zelen Dvor Restaurant for dinner and so in a light drizzle off we set. They are quite busy - always a good sign, and there are plenty of staff to tend to your every wish.
Entrees:
Njoki s gorgonzolom (Gnocchi with gorgonzola cheese) Michael
Njoki u umaku od škampa (Gnocchi with scampi sauce) Donna
Pohovani sir lokalne (Breaded local cheese) Maria
Mains:
Paprika Ramstek 'St Petersburg' s votke i vrhnje (Pepper rumpsteak 'St Petersburg' with vodka and cream) Michael
Pileći file s umakom od tartufa i rezanci (Chicken fillet with Truffle sauce and pasta) Donna
Weiner šnicl (Weiner schnitzel) Maria
Without a doubt, Donna's entree was the best meal of the night - actually, it came close to being the best meal of her trip with us - certainly one of the top two. The bill was very reasonable as well - what a bonus.
After coffee we return to the hotel in drizzle.

Cruising on the Adriatic

We took leave of Apartments Johnny this morning after another lovely breakfast. Still inside as the weather is definitely on the cooler side now. In fact, as soon as a wind gets up it can get bleeding cold!

Going down to the office to check out, 'Johnny' calls out to Vinko (who turns out to be his dad!) so we can say goodbye. We have been carrying an Australian flag with us since we left Australia, but it is a little too big to put on the back tray of the car, so it has just been sitting in our present cache. Anyway, Vinko is so taken with Australia (his brother lives in the Fairfield / Cabramatta area) and has shown a genuine interest in us, so we decide to make him an 'honorary Aussie'. I drape the flag around his shoulders and he is quite choked up! We have a few other little trinkets to leave with them.

Turns out that Vinko had phoned his brother the night before and made plans to visit in 2010 and this time Johnny will be going with him. But mum Ztavka doesn't like flying so she won't be coming. Anyway, we issue our card and an invitation to come and visit - Donna also tells them that they will take them for a drink and a meal. Think that he genuinely might get in touch! He proudly introduced us to his own ‘brew’ and offered Donna a sample – her enthusiastic reply was rewarded with a coke bottle full for later!!!

So from here we drive back into Split first to buy tickets and get aboard a boat to go to the island of Vis. We have had a look at the various options available. At this time of the year we have not been able to find a cruise around the islands, only ferries over to them individually. And given that their main traffic is workers, they come in from the islands early in the day, go back over in the mid-morning and then back to Split in time to collect the workers again around 5 or 6 pm for transport home. This is the exact opposite of what we as tourists need – we want to go over in the morning and back late in the afternoon! So we now know that we are going to have to stay on an island overnight if we want sufficient time to have a look around.

Vis is a ferry trip of 2 hours from Split almost in a straight line out into the Adriatic. And the appeal of this small island – well, it is the jump off point to the smaller island of Biševo and its well known Blue Grotto! We had missed seeing the one on the Isle of Capri due to the huge and wild seas, so we were hoping to see this one instead. So, ticket in hand (return 862 Kn or about €125 for the car and the three of us) we and the ticket collector exchange grunts and points and we get the message where to go!

There are a few vehicles waiting, but nowhere near as many as what we encountered going to the Scottish isles or to Ireland. We join the end of the queue and its not long before we are loading. The trip is as smooth as – hardly any movement in the crossing although at times there are small waves just off the boat. We pass the width of the islands of Šolta, Brac and Hvar, riding the channels that are deep fingers of the Adriatic Sea. The occasional rocky outcrop that sits within the channels have small lighthouses to keep the passenger and pleasure craft safe. We also see Korčula in the distance.

Almost exactly two hours after we left Split we are docking at the wharf of Vis harbour. This is what you would imagine any Mediterranean coastal village to look like. Terracotta tiled roofs sitting atop white or at least, pale, stone buildings that hug the shore line. There is a noticeable promenade from which people fish, or stroll, or sit taking the afternoon sun. We know that the boats to the island of Biševo and the Blue Cave leave from the second town on the island – Komiža which is on the other side of Vis, we turn and head for there as soon as we can drive off the ferry. There are two routes – one of 10 kms that goes almost in a direct line up and along a ridge, while the other one is 18 kms and follows a more winding route up into the centre of the island before coming down off the peak into the town. As we have yet to find accommodation we choose the shorter route.

10% slope up towards the apex of the Hum, the highest point on the island at 587 m. And that gained, a 10% slope straight back down the other side. The roads are quite winding and I almost miss the turn to the town ‘centre’ and ‘hotel’. A quick turn around the area directed as the centre does not look promising for accommodation so we decided to turn back to the hotel. Turns out that Hotel Biševo is the only hotel in the town and the only accommodation that is open all through the year.

Anna, the receptionist sounds – well, she sounds just like us! When we comment on her good English, she tells us she spent most of her childhood in Adelaide! Gosh, the small world just gets smaller! She doubts that we will get to the cave tomorrow as the weather forecast is not good (windy). We’ll see in the morning.

After checking in at the hotel we figure that we may as well go for a bit of a drive and explore some more of the island. Now, there are two sets of roads as I explained earlier. So we opt to take the road over the top, via the little villages in the island's interior: Podselje, Marinje zemlje, Podšpilje, and Podstražje. We pass lots of olive groves and vineyards – these are the two main agricultural pursuits on the island. The ground is so rocky and the farmers rake the ground over and pile the rocks into huge mounds. Some are used to construct fences around the lots, while others are still in the heaps. There are old houses, some in current use, some in dilapidated states. The local farmers use an odd little machine that consists of a 2 stroke engine on two wheels. This is then connected to all sorts of things, including a two wheeled tray wagon – therefore you have a stable four wheeled machine! You see them attached to hoes, cutters etc as well.

We are driving slowly because that is all the width and condition of the roads will let you go. We come across what is becoming a familiar sight in Croatia - donkeys! These two are tethered and by the look of the lighter coloured one (and by the berating we get as we pull up) they are kept lean! About the centre of the drive, we come across a sign to Titova Špilja and the universal symbol for caves. So, what to do? Go up of course! At the top of the road we are greeted with steps disappearing into the gorse bush. So, Michael and Donna set off to see how many steps there are. About ten minutes later I hear this “too many steps” coming from somewhere up above me, so I stay put.

Too bad really – they had come across two caves that had been used by the People's Liberation Army and General Tito during their fight for the liberation of the then areas of Yugoslavia that were under the control of Italy. In fact, it was here in these caves that Tito lived with his dog and conducted the business of the Resistance until he was granted a visa that then allowed him to travel to meet with Churchill and Stalin to plead their cause. This was, of course, before he took power and developed into more than his people had expected. WOW, we sure as hell had not expected to find anything as important as this on this little island on the edge of the Adriatic! Suitably impressed, we drive on.

Back at the hotel, Anna tells us that they do have evening meals but we opt to seek a local restaurant. We pass more cats - there are literally thousands on the island. Not sure whether the first couple stowed away on some boat out of Split or what, but they and their offspring sure are having fun multiplying!

The Konoba BAKO Restaurant is on the beachfront near the hotel – literally, if you were drunk and wandered across the patio, you would end up IN the drink of the seawater that laps the walls below. The kitchen is split with the grill open to the diners and where everything from bread slices to whole fish cooked in full view of the restaurant – and the tantaslising smells waft to aid with the sales of yet more food to thse who come in hungry. There was a small pond in the back where they say you can choose your own fish or shellfish for cooking. Thankfully they have more fish inside because the ones in there at the moment would have left us all hungry!
After we had ordered, we went outside to see the most stunning sunset out over the Bay and the neighbouring Biševo Island. Back inside, we settle into dinner ...
Appetiser:
Tuna and anchovy paste served with bread slices toasted over the coals
Entrées:
Sirevi / paški / tivajski (local cheese) Donna and Maria
Komiška pogača (focaccia Komiška style with salted sardines) Michael
Mains:
Zubatac fratar (Rockfish grilled over coals) Michael
Pohana grdobina (Angler fish breaded) Donna
Jastog buzara (Lobster in white wine with garlic and herbs) Maria
Also riža, salate, masline (rice, salads and olives)
Desserts:
Palačinke čokolade (crepes with chocolate) Donna
Sladoled (Lemon gelato and chocolate ice cream) Michael
Palačinke s orasima (crepes with walnuts) Maria

A short walk and we are back to the hotel. It seems that there are only a couple of other rooms occupied. We play Sudoku and read for a little while before crawling in to bed. Its unbelievably cold tonight and in the end Michael goes down to the car to get our blanket for me as well because there are no extra blankets in the room!

From drab to fab

Brno is a city of huge contrasts. There is the stunning old town with the Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul, Špilberk Castle - the feared prison of the Habsburg dynasty, then in total contrast there is the modern architectural building - Tugendhat Villa. There is the busy commercial centre and the nearby old industrial area on the edge of which we stayed and where there is a surprising amount of residences. There is the antiquated tram system that, when we drove in to the City we could see was being replaced. There is the local supermarket - cheap by any western standard, and yet selling limited fresh fruit and vegetables (but packet biscuits are as cheap as) and then there are the designer boutiques in the City centre. Yes, the two extremes - the wealthy business class and the much poorer balance of the population.

Brno makes it almost impossible to see the sights as a short stay tourist. The roads are a mess, and those which are driveable? (yep there is a good deal of question about that statement!) you need to share with trams and trolley buses. We try to get to the Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul, the road up the long, steep hill is closed off - we try to come around from another area - the police stop me, and with no English (and us, no Czech) the young policewoman firmly but politely shows me a sign on her little rule book that says no cars or motorbikes - despite us following a line of traffic in, and the many parked cars around. So we give in - there ain't no way we can get close to the Cathedral and it will take me too long to crawl up! I ignore Kate's pleadings and just drive through the inner city for a look. It's tired and drab and dirty. And yet there are many buildings that in their hey day would have absolutely beautiful. We end up at the main rail /tram /bus terminus and there the true story of the city is told! The square is ringed with little kiosks that sell all sorts of food - takeaway from one window.

From here we program Kate for the Tugendhat Villa. At first she delivers us to the wrong end of the street, but after a little tap, directs us around another route, up the hill (which I knew was right as it sits on a hill overlooking the City) and into a residential area. Again, I thought she had it wrong, but wait, no. There it is. For an architectural masterpiece, this is a very sad building. Concrete cancer is eating chunks off and there are cracks very visible. Oh well, maybe the interior is in better condition. Ha ha - like that would be possible. Despite nothing on their website, or the local tourist information brochures, the young lass guarding the gate tells us that you can only visit with a tour - for which reservations must be made in advance! There are no vacancies for today and she has just turned away two other groups as we waited - hmmm.

As we leave Brno we see the answer to that age old question - where do old rockers go when they fade from glory? Why, they come to eastern Europe of course! This sign is near a fairly new suburban development on the fringes of Brno - apartment block after coloured apartment block that seem to stretch forever. And with separate packing garages all lined up in rows. Too bad if it is pouring with rain when you bring the groceries home here!

OK, so out of Brno into the countryside to see if we can find the Karst Caves. Only 14 kms, but no luck there either - there are no signposts for anything that looks like whats in our brochure. Once we get to Ochoz we know we have gone too far. And the car thinks so too as the highway through town is cobbled! Mind you there are a lot of renovations being done here in town - new money by the look of it. Maybe there are some people who are sick of Brno and are willing to commute! Something tells me that we should have just headed for Český Krumlov early this morning.

So off we go. The highway is amazingly bad. There are many times that we are actually driving in a rut between raised tar at the side of the road and where the centre line is - I mean, to cross it would be like driving up over a high gutter! And the corrugations in the outer lane are terrible - and it seems that they are deliberate, in the laying of the concrete (the inner lane is nowhere near as bad). Maybe it is to discourage trucks from speeding - unlike the one we travelled behind as we left Brno - a petrol tanker with a bogey on that was dancing all over the road as he sped away faster than the surrounding traffic. And we know where Citröen and Renault heaven is - in Slovakia and the Czech Republic (and Poland also I suspect!) In fact, there is obviously no car industry here - nor by the number of very old cars on the road, has the government instituted similar reforms as is Germany and the UK where a cash amount is paid as a deduction on the price of a new car if you trade a car more than 10 years old for crushing.

Over the last week we have been passing these giant chupa chups - large balls on very high columns that seem to serve no purpose than as advertising opportunities. We thought that they might have been water or even oil reservoirs, but when we saw a damaged one, it apears that they are hollow rather fagile structures. We first saw them in Slovakia where they were in every vista. You see them above buildings, above forests, above just about eveything. And today we saw the first couple here. They are not new and remind me of something very seventies.

We are now in the region of Bohemia, part of the area once known as Moravia. Kate, choosing the fastest route takes us cross country, down the back country roads, through open fields and through dark, cool forests. We pass people walking the family - right on the side of the highway! Babes in prams included! And every once in a while there is this amazing stench that hits you - and you know you are near to a poo-shooting farmer, spraying cow dung as fertilizer! And then there is the town named Dvorce!

And we buy fruit by the side of the road at Český Budějovice. Nectarines, grapes and apricots that are so tasteless and floury that we bin them as soon as we have eaten one. This is a much larger city than what we expected to see out here in a rural area. Gosh, who are we to expect anything?? LOL - obvious that we are not beer drinkers heh! The golden amber has been brewed here since the 13th century and the local Budweiser Bier (beer from Budweis) became, along with Plzeň's Pilsener, one of the best-known lagers. Then the yanks copied it and tried to stop them using the name - huh! They still have the rights to market the beer under it's original name in much of Europe. Of course, the yanks have tried to buy the rights to the name exclusively, but as a matter of national pride the Czech government told them where they could stick that! Good on them. And to today, beer brewing remains an important local industry.

OH. MY. GOD. You should see Český Krumlov! If we ever thought Prague was special, it was only because we had not seen here yet!!!! We drive in to the City from a hill above it. Straight away you get a special feeling about this town, set on the banks of the Vltava River and on an island trapped in a meandering bend in the river. It is a town of fascinating red roof tops, of a castle and chateau and a number of churches. And as we follow the advice of the hotel (and Kate's directions) up and over the highway and through the last remaining of ten former town gates, it is like being instantly transported back in time. The streets are cobbled and they dance under the car tyres.

Where do I start? Well, firstly we were struck by the number of pedestrians walking through the streets. Driving the car was almost like playing skittles! We couldn't see the hotel when Kate had told us "you have arrived at your destination", so I pulled in and Michael jumped out and got directions and a map at the information centre. The hotel had told us that we could drive in through the pedestrian area to them, get our permits for travel through, and then park the car. So, despite the looks we are getting from those on foot, we persevere. Turns out that if we had turned one more corner and crossed yet another bridge we would have been at the hotel. The Hotel Dvořák is amazing to say the least. Not only have they given us a ground floor room - alleluia, and we have not only amazing views of the painted castle chateau tower, we also have the lovliest room - large and airy and with a huge bathroom! And at an (just) affordable €90 including breakfast, it is cheaper than Melk!

I unpack. Michael parks the car and walks back. We leave the hotel to take a walk. We wander, dazed, almost bewildered at the sights we see. Many of the buildings date back to the early 16th century - a few even before this. There are those that are built in to the rock on which the castle sits, those with buttressed walls, those with sgraffiti on their facades, those that are tiny. There are tight little alleys and narrow cobbled streets. And then there is the large open Náměstí Svornosti (town square) with the impressive facades of the burgher houses facing it and the beautiful Column of the Holy Virgin. This is truly Bohemia Rhapsody at its very best!

Time for some dinner (given that we haven't had anything really since breakfast.) We amble up the street a bit and come to the Bolero Restaurant. The menu is large and impressive. The waiter takes our drinks order then come back, we send him away (not ready yet) and comes back again! By now we have decided on:
Entrees:
Jinočeská česnečka (South Bohemian Garlic Soup) Michael
Grilovaný hermelín, pečivo (Baked Camembert with Bread) Maria
Mains:
Táborská basta – veprová pečeně, uzená pečeně, a pečená klobása, haiskový a bramborový knedlik, zeli (Pork roast, smoked roast beef, sausae, dumplings, potato dumplings, sauerkraut) Michael
Pikantí hovězí nudličky “Bolero”s bramboráčky, obloha – novězi svíčková, klobása, paprika, česnek, chilli (Spicy beef filed slices “Bolero” with tiny potato cakes) Maria
Served with a fresh salad, the food was wonderful - nothing like the Slovakian food, this is much lighter with cleaner flavours - very very fresh and delicious!
A second round of drinks - but gee, we are too full to consider dessert. And all for €36!
That is of course until we are walking back, and just before the bridge there is this amazingly great smell. A queue tell us that they are worth waiting for! 'They' are hollow rolls of pastry - about 5 inches wide and 2 inches across. The pastry is rolled on to cylinders and then rolled over an open fire. Once cooked (about 3 mins) they are rolled in sugar with cinnamon. Standing on the bridge, listening to a live band play at one of the eateries (all the 60s and 70s favourites) under the statue of the crucified Jesus, I feel truly as if I am in heaven!

Then back to the hotel while Michael climbs up the path to the castle to take a look. Hels is online and we chat about our plans for when she is here - she has the flu - had better get rid of it before she gets here I warn!! Then I am off to update the blog - bugger that, I bring the laptop into the bar and have a champagne while I do it - a 375 ml bottle that is! So you will have to forgive me any mistakes today! (That and two coffees when Michael gets back sets us back €11.)

And so here is a sneak peak of the pics he got tonight - if there is space, I'll add another one or two tomorrow - but I'm not promising anything!