From drab to fab

Brno is a city of huge contrasts. There is the stunning old town with the Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul, Špilberk Castle - the feared prison of the Habsburg dynasty, then in total contrast there is the modern architectural building - Tugendhat Villa. There is the busy commercial centre and the nearby old industrial area on the edge of which we stayed and where there is a surprising amount of residences. There is the antiquated tram system that, when we drove in to the City we could see was being replaced. There is the local supermarket - cheap by any western standard, and yet selling limited fresh fruit and vegetables (but packet biscuits are as cheap as) and then there are the designer boutiques in the City centre. Yes, the two extremes - the wealthy business class and the much poorer balance of the population.

Brno makes it almost impossible to see the sights as a short stay tourist. The roads are a mess, and those which are driveable? (yep there is a good deal of question about that statement!) you need to share with trams and trolley buses. We try to get to the Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul, the road up the long, steep hill is closed off - we try to come around from another area - the police stop me, and with no English (and us, no Czech) the young policewoman firmly but politely shows me a sign on her little rule book that says no cars or motorbikes - despite us following a line of traffic in, and the many parked cars around. So we give in - there ain't no way we can get close to the Cathedral and it will take me too long to crawl up! I ignore Kate's pleadings and just drive through the inner city for a look. It's tired and drab and dirty. And yet there are many buildings that in their hey day would have absolutely beautiful. We end up at the main rail /tram /bus terminus and there the true story of the city is told! The square is ringed with little kiosks that sell all sorts of food - takeaway from one window.

From here we program Kate for the Tugendhat Villa. At first she delivers us to the wrong end of the street, but after a little tap, directs us around another route, up the hill (which I knew was right as it sits on a hill overlooking the City) and into a residential area. Again, I thought she had it wrong, but wait, no. There it is. For an architectural masterpiece, this is a very sad building. Concrete cancer is eating chunks off and there are cracks very visible. Oh well, maybe the interior is in better condition. Ha ha - like that would be possible. Despite nothing on their website, or the local tourist information brochures, the young lass guarding the gate tells us that you can only visit with a tour - for which reservations must be made in advance! There are no vacancies for today and she has just turned away two other groups as we waited - hmmm.

As we leave Brno we see the answer to that age old question - where do old rockers go when they fade from glory? Why, they come to eastern Europe of course! This sign is near a fairly new suburban development on the fringes of Brno - apartment block after coloured apartment block that seem to stretch forever. And with separate packing garages all lined up in rows. Too bad if it is pouring with rain when you bring the groceries home here!

OK, so out of Brno into the countryside to see if we can find the Karst Caves. Only 14 kms, but no luck there either - there are no signposts for anything that looks like whats in our brochure. Once we get to Ochoz we know we have gone too far. And the car thinks so too as the highway through town is cobbled! Mind you there are a lot of renovations being done here in town - new money by the look of it. Maybe there are some people who are sick of Brno and are willing to commute! Something tells me that we should have just headed for Český Krumlov early this morning.

So off we go. The highway is amazingly bad. There are many times that we are actually driving in a rut between raised tar at the side of the road and where the centre line is - I mean, to cross it would be like driving up over a high gutter! And the corrugations in the outer lane are terrible - and it seems that they are deliberate, in the laying of the concrete (the inner lane is nowhere near as bad). Maybe it is to discourage trucks from speeding - unlike the one we travelled behind as we left Brno - a petrol tanker with a bogey on that was dancing all over the road as he sped away faster than the surrounding traffic. And we know where Citröen and Renault heaven is - in Slovakia and the Czech Republic (and Poland also I suspect!) In fact, there is obviously no car industry here - nor by the number of very old cars on the road, has the government instituted similar reforms as is Germany and the UK where a cash amount is paid as a deduction on the price of a new car if you trade a car more than 10 years old for crushing.

Over the last week we have been passing these giant chupa chups - large balls on very high columns that seem to serve no purpose than as advertising opportunities. We thought that they might have been water or even oil reservoirs, but when we saw a damaged one, it apears that they are hollow rather fagile structures. We first saw them in Slovakia where they were in every vista. You see them above buildings, above forests, above just about eveything. And today we saw the first couple here. They are not new and remind me of something very seventies.

We are now in the region of Bohemia, part of the area once known as Moravia. Kate, choosing the fastest route takes us cross country, down the back country roads, through open fields and through dark, cool forests. We pass people walking the family - right on the side of the highway! Babes in prams included! And every once in a while there is this amazing stench that hits you - and you know you are near to a poo-shooting farmer, spraying cow dung as fertilizer! And then there is the town named Dvorce!

And we buy fruit by the side of the road at Český Budějovice. Nectarines, grapes and apricots that are so tasteless and floury that we bin them as soon as we have eaten one. This is a much larger city than what we expected to see out here in a rural area. Gosh, who are we to expect anything?? LOL - obvious that we are not beer drinkers heh! The golden amber has been brewed here since the 13th century and the local Budweiser Bier (beer from Budweis) became, along with Plzeň's Pilsener, one of the best-known lagers. Then the yanks copied it and tried to stop them using the name - huh! They still have the rights to market the beer under it's original name in much of Europe. Of course, the yanks have tried to buy the rights to the name exclusively, but as a matter of national pride the Czech government told them where they could stick that! Good on them. And to today, beer brewing remains an important local industry.

OH. MY. GOD. You should see Český Krumlov! If we ever thought Prague was special, it was only because we had not seen here yet!!!! We drive in to the City from a hill above it. Straight away you get a special feeling about this town, set on the banks of the Vltava River and on an island trapped in a meandering bend in the river. It is a town of fascinating red roof tops, of a castle and chateau and a number of churches. And as we follow the advice of the hotel (and Kate's directions) up and over the highway and through the last remaining of ten former town gates, it is like being instantly transported back in time. The streets are cobbled and they dance under the car tyres.

Where do I start? Well, firstly we were struck by the number of pedestrians walking through the streets. Driving the car was almost like playing skittles! We couldn't see the hotel when Kate had told us "you have arrived at your destination", so I pulled in and Michael jumped out and got directions and a map at the information centre. The hotel had told us that we could drive in through the pedestrian area to them, get our permits for travel through, and then park the car. So, despite the looks we are getting from those on foot, we persevere. Turns out that if we had turned one more corner and crossed yet another bridge we would have been at the hotel. The Hotel Dvořák is amazing to say the least. Not only have they given us a ground floor room - alleluia, and we have not only amazing views of the painted castle chateau tower, we also have the lovliest room - large and airy and with a huge bathroom! And at an (just) affordable €90 including breakfast, it is cheaper than Melk!

I unpack. Michael parks the car and walks back. We leave the hotel to take a walk. We wander, dazed, almost bewildered at the sights we see. Many of the buildings date back to the early 16th century - a few even before this. There are those that are built in to the rock on which the castle sits, those with buttressed walls, those with sgraffiti on their facades, those that are tiny. There are tight little alleys and narrow cobbled streets. And then there is the large open Náměstí Svornosti (town square) with the impressive facades of the burgher houses facing it and the beautiful Column of the Holy Virgin. This is truly Bohemia Rhapsody at its very best!

Time for some dinner (given that we haven't had anything really since breakfast.) We amble up the street a bit and come to the Bolero Restaurant. The menu is large and impressive. The waiter takes our drinks order then come back, we send him away (not ready yet) and comes back again! By now we have decided on:
Entrees:
Jinočeská česnečka (South Bohemian Garlic Soup) Michael
Grilovaný hermelín, pečivo (Baked Camembert with Bread) Maria
Mains:
Táborská basta – veprová pečeně, uzená pečeně, a pečená klobása, haiskový a bramborový knedlik, zeli (Pork roast, smoked roast beef, sausae, dumplings, potato dumplings, sauerkraut) Michael
Pikantí hovězí nudličky “Bolero”s bramboráčky, obloha – novězi svíčková, klobása, paprika, česnek, chilli (Spicy beef filed slices “Bolero” with tiny potato cakes) Maria
Served with a fresh salad, the food was wonderful - nothing like the Slovakian food, this is much lighter with cleaner flavours - very very fresh and delicious!
A second round of drinks - but gee, we are too full to consider dessert. And all for €36!
That is of course until we are walking back, and just before the bridge there is this amazingly great smell. A queue tell us that they are worth waiting for! 'They' are hollow rolls of pastry - about 5 inches wide and 2 inches across. The pastry is rolled on to cylinders and then rolled over an open fire. Once cooked (about 3 mins) they are rolled in sugar with cinnamon. Standing on the bridge, listening to a live band play at one of the eateries (all the 60s and 70s favourites) under the statue of the crucified Jesus, I feel truly as if I am in heaven!

Then back to the hotel while Michael climbs up the path to the castle to take a look. Hels is online and we chat about our plans for when she is here - she has the flu - had better get rid of it before she gets here I warn!! Then I am off to update the blog - bugger that, I bring the laptop into the bar and have a champagne while I do it - a 375 ml bottle that is! So you will have to forgive me any mistakes today! (That and two coffees when Michael gets back sets us back €11.)

And so here is a sneak peak of the pics he got tonight - if there is space, I'll add another one or two tomorrow - but I'm not promising anything!

Planning, planning, planning

We spent most of today planning our next month. We needed to do this because by not planning, we have come north east of where we want to go next - a move that will cost us some time and petrol.

We really want to see the town of Český Krumlov in south west Czech republic - I had though it was in the north east. So I kind of stuffed up a bit, but it is not all bad because we will see a little more of southern Czech Republic getting there. Could only be one hitch - there is a big international Music Festival on there at the moment and rooms are at a premium. Bugger - should have been there from last night - being the middle of the week it would have been easier. Oh well que sera sera!












So, after consulting our trusty AA Atlas, our Lonely Planet Eastern Europe and Western Europe guides, and Kate and her TomTom route planning software, we finally decided on the route we will take. We will travel through the Czech Republic, Poland, Northern Germany, to Amsterdam, Brugge in Belgium before I leave Michael in Béthune in France and meet up with Hels in Paris! I know it sounds crazy - but it is do-able. Only 3,164 odd kilometres in the month!

And then I hit the internet to first find, and then book accommodation. And as I upload this at midnight, I have only managed to get confirmed bookings as far as Auschwitz done with requests out for Krakow and Warsaw. Hopefully they will be confirmed in the next 24 hours.

We are leaving here after an early breakfast in the morning to have a look at Brno before we head over to Český Krumlov. And wait till you see where we are staying there! This aparthotel (its a new category of accommodation) is quite nice. A four room apartment that is cleaned daily. It has a small kitchen (and Michael cooked again tonight), two bedrooms with a sitting area in each and a bathroom. But you can't get this sort of apartment everywhere yet. We've been lucky enough to get them a few places. Accommodation is expensive at the moment as it is the European summer high season and a lot of Europeans are travelling at the moment - especially Italians and Polish mainly.

From one extreme to another

I got me a new bestest friend today! Thanks ever so much to Judith at Haarteam Mohr (hairdressers) in Melk, I am now so much lighter and more comfortable, being unburdened from all that hair! She has given me a lovely cut - the best I have had since leaving home. I was a little disappointed that the man at the Hotel Der Post did not tell me of her hairdressing shop when I asked him for directions to one - she is across the road and down one shop - he however, directed me to one much further away. And while I was being pampered, Michael took a bit a stroll and got some pics.

We are driving down the Danube River and it could so easily be the Rhine. One either bank there are crops of corn and sunflowers and then grapes. The small towns are almost within a cooee of each other and there are castles and ruins on almost every high outcrop! Turns out that the tolling and taxing of passengers on the Danube was carried out pretty much the same as it was on the Rhine - complete with the Robber Barons!

At Schönbühel, not long out of Melk, we see a fortified buildng overlooking the River, but when we go up to take a look, it is a private residence! Gee, they must have very long arms and short pockets - cos the upkeep on such a place must be incredible. We travel a little further and see another one much higher up and oh shit, there is the turnoff - very quick turn to the right! we have happened upon Burgruine Aggstein - Austria's best known medieval castle.

It sits 320 m above the Danube, and the road snakes up through the forest on roads of 20% slopes - part is sealed, part not. It's been a while since I have had to take a hill of any length in 2nd gear! But believe me, the trip up was definitely worth it. Built in the early 12th century onto and into the rock on which it sits, the castle commands great views of it's approaches and the Danube Valley.

And while it looks impenetrable, this castle was beseiged a number of times during its life, destroyed twice and rebuilt from the ruins. In the early 15th Century, the castle was owned by one of the barons who, once realising that the cargo of the ships he tolled was worth considerably more, took to robbing them, using a iron chain across the Danube to halt their progress. In the late 15th Century, Duke Leopold III captured the Baron and took over the castle to stop this practice.

The castle is very indicative of the layout and purposes of a castle of its age. It had a deep well to ensure safe drinking water for its inhabitants, a chapel to minister to the spirital needs, a large (knights) hall used for ceremonies, a dungeon, and living quarters behind a second fortification. Only one of the areas in the castle was heated - meaning that winters must have been a bleak and miserable time. Even on a warm day like today, you get the benefit from the high position over the river and it is quite pleasant.

Today, the Knight's Hall can be hired for functions, the chapel for weddings, and there is a small restaurant in the main courtyard. Owned by the State, this must help to offset the large upkeep bill! We enjoy an apfelsaft-gerwist (apple juice with sparkling water) and a cheescake. Or at least we tied to - the bees liked it all just as much as we did! Little, long, yellow and black banded ones.

So, cooled down and with the yummy cake down, we headed back down to the Danube and our trip to the north where we are now passing lots and lots of stone fruit orchards and grape vines. And while there are a few roadside stalls, I am surprised we don't see more. Oh, and did I mention the beautiful scenes with crops and river and picturesque towns? (hehehe - sorry guys)
It really is as pretty as a picture postcard. We pass through small towns with amazing graffiti (the old style) on their walls and then through the outskirts of the city of Krems. Like Melk, there was an Abbey established here and it is nearly as large. But having just seen Melk, we feel no compulsion to go off our route to see this one. The day is getting on and we still have a little way to go.

Before too long, we have reached the border with the Czech Republic. And straight away you notice the difference between the wealth, both public and private of the two countries. We have gone from small individual farms to broadacre farming at its best (or worst?). Lots and lots of sunflowers and still some corn. So we now know where all our sunflower oil comes from - Slovakia and the Czech Republic! And despite the revolting rotting smell that comes from the very ripe sunflowers, they paint a beautiful picture, don't you agree?! The flower on the far right was huge - about the size of a dinner plate! And the bees all over them are much fatter - two varieties - a plump furry fat one and a sleeker banded one.

The housing changes dramatically and there are the usual signs of social boredom - the graffiti covered public utilities like this bus stop on the highway about 20 kms from Brno. But as we enter the City, there is plenty of new building work too. The tram system is getting a major overhaul which from the look of the rusted rails and overgrown sidings, is not a moment too soon. As the Czech Republic's second largest city, you really would expect nothing less!

And then there are the perennial roadworks! I couldn't help feel a little déja vu when I read this article from our local Fraser Coast Chronicle back home. However, there really doesn't seem to be the same level of assurance for roads workers here in Eastern Europe. Even before I read this article, we have commented a number of times on how WH&S standards are so different here and the lack of protection that is given to workers on the roads.

We are staying in a new apartment hotel in the centre of the City, but not in the Old Town. In fact, it is on the edge of the commercial area, bordering on an industrial zone. But there is secure parking under the building behind a locked automatic door and we get space and a kitchen to cook, so we feel it is OK. There is a park outside our window and I see local youths (well, some of them are youths, others much younger) hanging out smoking cigarettes.

But out the window from the front corridor, there is an amazing view of Špilberk Castle and the Cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul that we will have a look at tomorrow. Michael heads out to the supermarket for some veges, chicken and noodles for a stir fry for dinner. Gosh we need those veges! He changes €20 for Czech Kroner - this gets him 518.90 Kč! And he still comes back with 200 Kč change from that!