When luxury is not is cracked up to be

Happy birthday for me. The last two years has certainly taught me to appreciate every day I get on this side of the ground.

Our villa (no longer calling this one a cabin!) is luxe all the way.
The bed is high with a mattress that is about 50cm high. I have to do a little hop to get up on it! Gen had put the electric blanket on for me we first got in last night, so despite the wind that we can hear swirling gently around outside, we are toasty warm.

Turns out that we are probably a little too warm. We got into bed, and within minutes I am asleep. Gen too slept well initially, but woke at 4:30am, and was unable to get back to sleep. She thought it might have been because of my snoring! Moi? Surely not! We know that this is a rare occcurrence, but whatever, she couldn't get back to sleep. Just inside the door to the Villa is a long bench with a cushion running its length. I told Gen that I would happily sleep there, but she wouldn't hear of it. Instead, this was where she took herself, a couple of pillows and the most exquisite cable-knitted blanket (it is too large to call a throw). Looking into the black expanse of the night outside, she says that she could see darker splotches, so pointing her phone she captured pictures of 5 Pademelons within touching distance of the villa! She sleeps for another 3-4 hours here. I guess we are just not used to luxury!

This morning we are off back over to Adventure Bay to take one of the Pennicott Widerness Cruises - a 3 hour sojourn into the waters off the Island. The jetty is right at one end of the main road network. We drive through sleepy little hamlets full of little tin and timber shanties and 1950/60s beach holiday houses that are slowly being crowded out by the brash newcomers with their endless sheets of glass and timber. Sadly we count 7  animals newly deceased as roadkill. We have been warned by all the locals of the dangers of driving between dusk and dawn and on our way home from the supermarket yesterday afternoon we carefully watched three pademelons and a wallaby hesitate and then jump back into the bush.  

Even now, well into autumn, there are enough people booked for this cruise that two boats are taken out. Our deckhands are Dean and Ben. They are confident and very able, checking on everyone, all belted in, caped up and had their 2 ginger tablets - swallow with water, not chew they are trying to instruct an Indian family. Charades works all over the world! We begin our journey with a bit of drama - the Indian older man (grandpa) slipped between the jetty and the boat - lightning fast reflexes saw Dean and Ben grab him, but they were obviously shaken and almost had him undressed to make sure he was not injured. After a few minutes of checks, they again checked everyone else and then we drew slowly away from the jetty - as though letting the apron strings slowly out. The the full force of the three massive engines were unleashed and nose up, we sped out into the Bay. The two boats weave in and out up and over each others wakes and its not too long before the dolphins arrive to play in the waters. Obviously the cruise operators and these wild animals are well-known to each other. The engines are cut and passengers race for the optimum spots to capture photos and videos. Dean explains that with smartphones, the best way to capture footage is with video and then take screenshots for particular photos you want. Most of us are clueless, but he came to the rescue explaining how to do this for Android and iPhones! Ah, to be young again and able to keep up with the constant changes in technology!

Finally with the fill of dolphins, we resume our seats and buckle up again. Ben and Dean are quite the team, very relaxed, treading the boards constantly chatting to the passengers, sharing stories and groan-worthy dad jokes! They explain that we will be hugging the coast on the trip out, and will journey back in the open waters. Dean in particular is a wealth of knowledge and stories. A lifetime local, it is very obvious that he is passionate about this environment and enjoys sharing it with others. He explains that here at the northern end of Adventure Bay we are travelling passed Jurassic period basalts that are 'breathing' rocks reflecting the motion of the ocean. Over the millenia since they were thrust up through the earth, the rocks have been continuously pounded by the relentless sea, slowly but ever so indeterminably worn away. Caves are worn into the occasional softer striations- initially just small openings growing eventually into larger, deeper or taller openings. 

We move in closer, watching the swell work its magic, rolling with that swell, marvelling at the colours in the lichens, at the size of the Bull Kelp (Kombu) that hangs tight at the tide line, floating above, then dashing under the water. There are a myriad of small crustaceans (limpets and barnacles) that cling on the the rock for dear life. Dean relates stories of finding abalone in the same area. He warned us against over-indulging in any one sitting as they have a laxette-like side effect! Moving further south, Dean manoeuvres the boat into some of the cave openings, we traverse the Tasmanian equivalent of the Bay of Islands. The basalt cliffs tower 294m above us. You need to lean out from the shelter of the boat canopy to even see the top of them. Wind and water have combined to form tall, symmetrical columns that sit tightly beside each other locked in an eternal battle with the elements.

When a cave continues to be eroded, you end up with an arch and even loner erosion causes the arch to fall, leaving two columns. We pass through one spectacular set of rock columns known as the Guardians of the Sea - with a regal aura. The column further out wears a 'crown' and is called the King Column and his mate, the Queen Column is slightly smaller and appears the have long locks of hair. Its amazing what a story can add to your imagination! It is near here that Dean pulls nose in close to the landmass and it doesn't take long for us to realise that he is showing us a blowhole. The incoming tide increases the force of the blowhole, spraying us all with a fine mist. Its about now, that I can start to sense the timing of this swell. Without my crutches, I have decided not to try to stand up during this cruise, and so while others are rushing around trying to get the prized shot with water spray and mist, I am sitting quietly, 'hearing' the sound of the blowhole. There is a deep thump just before the water jets into the air, and then a tickling as the water falls back to its bed. Quite cathartic. Dean explains that this is not technically a true blowhole as there is no upper opening. Rather, it is an underwater cave - the water is pushed into the cave, hits the rear wall and then is shot back out the cave entrance. Call it what you will, describe it as you must, it is still a spectacular sight.

We cruise (well, motor) further south - checking out colonies of gannets and comorents, drying their wings on rocky outcrops off the shore. Their guano is that acidic that nothing can grow where they rest, and the rock is eventually bleached to a stark white painted look. At last we are nearing the extreme end of today's journey and we can smell the next wildlife long before we can see them. While Australian Fur Seals are beautiful to look at, they positively stink - especially when they are in a colony.  And this colony are all males - and we all know what a bunch of teen and young adult boys are like when it comes to cleanliness and housekeeping! Well, these are no different. The females live further north and the boys live in this area for 9 months of the year, practising gluttony, pride and finally lust. Its a chest-beating thing. The alpha male gets the pick of the girlfriends. The more girlfriends, the greater the progeny and the survival of his genetic line. We spent the better part of 20 minutes just watching (and smelling) them. They are amazingly beautiful creatures.

Finally, the boat is turned north and we head back to the safe anchorage of Adventure Bay. We went as far south as Tasman Island, Tasman Head and The Friars - all of which sit in the souther tip of the Tasman Sea and close to the Southern Ocean. The trip back is cold and windy, and bumpy. We are travelling off-shore, riding the ridges and troughs for a 'smoother' ride - that is, not rising across them. The journey back is just short of an hour and in this time I gradually add:
* doing up my new multi-layered weather jacket
* my face mask (to protect my lips as much as I can)
* my beanie
* my gloves; and finally
* zipping my coat up OVER all the rest and my head.  I was freezing. Literally!

But what an exhilarating way to spend 3 hours and a decent chunk of money. Well worth it and I would recommend it to anyone. You can watch a video of this trip here.

So, half the day is gone. It is now 2pm and we only have today to explore the rest of the South Bruny Island. We haven't eaten since our croissant/roll this morning, so we set out  to visit the Bruny Island Premium wines, Cider and Restaurant. Luckily we arrive at 2:25pm as lunch is only served until 2:30pm, so we quickly find a table and choose from the menu. Gen selects the  Sliders and ciders - mushroom and haloumi, lamb rosemary, salmon avocado with three ciders to taste - Ginger and Apple, Blapple (Blackberry and Apple) and Cherry and Apple - her fave. I buy a bottle of 2019 unwooded Chardonnay and Pork Rillettes with warmed bread to eat with it. Both were delicious, but the star was the Bruny Honey & cinnamon crème bruleè - forest fruits, Scottish shortbread - now THAT was delicious!! Having finished our repast, and purchased some providores from their selection of ciders, jams, chutneys and smoked salmon (to have with our 'fridge' bread), we thought we would drive down and have a look at the Bruny Island Lighthouse.

In this hire car we are not allowed to drive on unsealed roads, so having set out to explore, we soon hit a gravel road and make the sad decision not to proceed. The other attratcion of interest was Inala - the Jurassic Garden. It was only a few days ago that Justine, who is house-sitting and cat-caring for us, sent us a link to this site. It was a very interesting collection of shells, fossils and bones all beautifully labelled and displayed. Outside was a very substantial garden that primarily focusses on jurassic and later period plants. There is also a very extensive collection of native and non-native plants, all grouped by family. The path meanders down the planted hill and by the time we reach the bottom, it is clear that the operators are reading to close for the day. No time to amble back up the path, so we just took shortcuts through the grassed surrounds. 

All in all, another very busy and satisfying day as we arrive back at the Hotel Bruny Lodge and our villa. We did not think to pull the curtains as we left, so the room is very warm as the west-facing glass has heated the room all afternoon! So with the door left open, the room is cooled and the first Pademelon of the night appears. We hope that it is a really clear night so we can see the amazing night sky here.

Thanks for all the well-wishes. Your love and support mean a lot to me.  See you again tomorrow folks.

From prizes to princes

An earlier start today to make sure that we get the most of our visit to Gamla Stan.
Gamla stan, the Old Town, until 1980 was officially known as Staden mellan broarna (The Town between the Bridges), is the old town of Stockholm, Sweden. Gamla stan consists primarily of the island Stadsholmen.


It is a short ferry ride across the inner harbour  in the sunshine this morning, passing four large cruise ships enroute.  There is a slight breeze and the possibility of a shower, so Donna has packed the umbrellas - just in case.Gamla Stan is one of the larger islands in the archipelago that is Stockholm.  It has an area of about 0.26 square kms.  And while we didn't cover all of it,we gave it a pretty damn good shot.  Walked just under 5 kms today so you can imagine how my feet are tonight!  Still I am really pleased with how I lasted and thankful that Donna lent me her arm numerous times on the blasted cobblestones.  There were every possible type of them somewhere on the island - including those little rounded ones that they set on their edges - they are the most painful!
On our way to find the Cathedral (which turned out not to be the church we thought it was) we came across the intricate bronze statue to St George and the Dragon. This dragon was slain in return for the City converting to christianity!  Turns out, this is not the only statue to St George and the dragon, and most certainly one one of hundreds of statues on this elaborate little island.The first major building we entered today is the Nobel Prize Museum. Set in an imposing building facing one of the main squares where the City fountain is set, the interior is dark, although not at all cool!  This centre focuses on the story of how the Prize came about - as the legacy left in the will of Alfred Nobel who had made his fortune in the discovery and development of dynamite. 
Without any direct descendants (although he had large extended family) he decided to distribute his fortune to the recognition of those who excelled in a number of scientific and other fields:

• Physics
• Chemistry
• Physiology or Medicine
• Literature
• Peace

In 1968, Sveriges Riksbank (Sweden’s central bank) established The Sveriges Riksbank Prize in Economic Sciences in Memory of Alfred Nobel. Th Royal Apartments (historic) are more accessible with lift access allowing easy access to the main areas (although there were still steps up from each foyer).  There are two things that strike us Once we had had our fill of the opulence, we retraced our steps to the courtyard just as the Changing of the Guard was taking place. Talk about being in the right place at the right time. We have unobstructed views, unlike the crowds who have just entered the Parade Square and are being marshalled by soldiers! The Guard have some of the best polished helmets we have ever seen!Out through the Parade Square and behind the Palace, we find the Storkyrkan - Stockholm Cathedral, St. Jacob's Church and St. Clara Church.  This medieval church, built from 1279, this cathedral, has been a Lutheran place of worship since 1527.  
By now it is now close to 5 pm and time for us to turn towards the ferry back to Skeppsholmen.  My feet HATE the cobblestones and the uneven roads and pavements, the hills up and down, have taken their toll.  I am really feeling our jaunt today, but thrilled that we were able to traverse most of Gamla Stan.
We return to the Hotel Skeppsholmen somewhat subdued, but happy with the day.
Night all - time to rest the tootsies!

There are not too many people getting off the ferry, although there were plenty on board - so I guess the museums we did over the last couple of days are still drawing the late summer / early autumn crowds.

Gamla Stan has a really interesting skyline with cupolas, towers, spires and the stair-stepped roof-lines reminiscent of those in Brugges and the slightly rounded ones found across many of the other European cities.

Between 1901 and 2018, the prizes have been awarded a total of 590 times.  And there is information on each and every one.  One of the more interesting ways they are presented is on a ceiling mounted tracked system that features each of the laureates on a separate hanging banner.  Other ways they are presented are in decade visual blocks where one can read in detail of the recipient.  And some are featured in special displays.  There is a major display on the works and times of Martin Luther King.  We spent about 2 hours working through the discoveries and works of some of the amazing people who have and are currently influencing our knowledge of our world.

Following our enlightening, we ventured back into the afternoon sun - it is hard to believe that summer is done and locally, everyone is commenting on how later summer is lasting.  After wandering through backstreets, peering down alleyways and into doorways and courtyards, we end up on one of the straight lines that cross the island - Osterlangg, looking for a light lunch.  
The small restaurant Cultur was easy to enter (steps here are everywhere) and in fact, compared to here on Skeppsholmen, very affordable.

Donna had Cod with crab sauce and baby potatoes and I had Chicken with Tarragon, mashed potatoes and white beans.  Washed down with a glass of Italian Pinot it was delicious and very satisfying, providing the energy needed this afternoon.

So we next headed to the other end of Gamla Stan and The Royal Palaces. 

With more than 600 rooms, much of it open to the public, we could have spent a full day in this one complex. However, time is short and there is still so much to see.  Donna climbed the many steps to take some photos in the large Chapel - basically one large hall that hosts major ceremonies.

Straight away we are struck by - the amazing chandeliers in all the rooms, and the plethora of clocks -some rooms with more than one - and all keeping perfect time.  Turns out the Palace has its own clock-maker to ensure that these historic pieces all run true!
There are gifts from popes and princes, priceless tapestries and furniture and elaborate furnishings in the king's rooms.  The Council Chamber still hosts meetings of the Swedish Cabinet three to four times a year with the King sitting as Chairman.
And Karl XI's gallery, modelled on the castle Versailles mirror gallery has a series of chandeliers running its length!

It houses the other statue of St George slaying the Dragon that we have seen today.  This one, carved in timber in 1489 is amazing in its detail.

Tomorrow we check out and will take the train to Gothenburg on the other side of Sweden.  At least this way we will get to see more of the countryside.

"Nice to see you Australian's like your mead"

Description

I didn't sleep all that well last night.  Before I had got into a deep sleep we had docked at one of the overnight ports where the Hurtigruten vessels pull in to collect daily food supplies and make freight deliveries.  Our cabin is very close to the gangways - both passenger and freight and for some reason, last night seemed noisier than previous nights. Still, little price to pay for being close to the excursion exit points - literally just outside our door.

When ships pass in the night (and in the day), there are three horns sounded from each vessel. Before you realise this, as the horns sound you start to count, waiting to hear for the evacuation alarm.  Must admit, the first time was a bit alarming as we got to the sixth horn, until you realise that the second round of three blasts sounds different to the first three.  Phew, no need to get wet!


The ship is in and out of open waters at the moment.  You can immediately feel the change without even looking out the window.  When we hit open waters, unprotected from islands, islets or rocks, the swell increase is quite noticeable. 

We are back into the exploring today with two excursions.  Firstly, we are headed for Bodø - the second largest town in northern Norway and home to 70,000 people. 
Bodø lies just north of the Arctic Circle. It is also the end of the line for the Norwegian rail system.


Bodø was bombed in 1944 and assistance was provided by the Swedish government to rebuild parts of the ruined town. In return, the city now has a sector dubbed the Swedish quarter. Today, Bodø is a very fast growing town. There is very little manufacturing. Rather, it is a city of communications, access, tourism and learning. The 'high school' was granted university status a couple of years ago and is now home to 7,000 students. 
There is a very noticeable amount of building and roadworks happening with new civic and private investment happening. Its a nice mix of traditional timber homes and modern high-rise apartments.  

After our whirlwind drive through the streets of Bodø, we leave to drive 30 kms north to the point where we can observe the effects of the Saltstraumen current. 
Our driver and guide Michael was obviously very proud of his home. As we boarded the bus, he handed out samples of Arctic Salt in rather unique little tins. This salt is harvested at Saltstraumen where the ocean currents rush into the fjord.



The Saltstraumen is the strongest tidal current in the world with water speeds reaching up to 22 knots. Up to 400,000,000 cubic metres of seawater forces its way through a 3 km wide strait every 6 hours! The Saltstraumen has existed for about 3,000 years.  Depending on the conditions, there can be up to a 1 metre difference between the level of the seawater and that of the water inside the fjord. Today, we have arrived about halfway in to the turn of the tide and the Saltstraumen is just beginning to develop. If you look very closely, you can see eddies forming at the edge of the current. Too bad we are not 2 hours later when it would beat its peak.  We are told of the maelstroms that can occur and the loss of life over the years. Michael was saying that only yesterday a small ship was pushed on to the rocks when it lost its engine. Both the crew and the ship were saved.


The scenery en-route is a little ho-hum - just kidding! Like the rest of the Norwegian coastline to now, it is a mix of towering mountains that plunge to the sea, small lakes and streams dotted with rocks and rocky outcrops and glacial plains that are farmed and settled. 
The high mountains, like in other parts of the world are the cloud nurseries and we see clouds forming high in the mountain valleys. At times, they tumble over the ridges and cascade down the mountainside.

Out at sea,we can see squalls where it is raining in one view and in the next there is bright sunlight reflected so sharply that we need to squint while looking out the windows.

Back on board we have missed the lunch service.  We could have had an early lunch, or

packed something to take with us, but all we seem to do is eat, so we chose not to have anything after a good breakfast this morning of eggs,sausage, pancake (pikelets) with jam and sweetened whipped butter, yoghurt and fruit.  Instead, we head up to the cafe for a hot drink and the obligatory cake - today's afternoon delight! There are a number of points on board where you can have instant coffee or tea for nought, but personally, would prefer to pay and have the real deal!

We rug up a bit more for our next excursion - an evening journey for a taste of Viking life on the Lofoten Islands.
This trip we journeyed from Stamsund to Borg before continuing to the Lofotr Viking Museum. We are met at Stamsund by our guide Christian, dressed in Viking garb. He tells a good story in preparation for our visit to the local Chieftan's house - a fully restored full sized reconstruction of a traditional Viking home. Chieftan Olaf and his wife Olsen met us at the door. They then introduced us to some of the other members of the household including Olsen's sister - alive for 18 winters, and their slave who had been found by a local farmer as a baby and given to the chieftan when her own family came along. Picture a flamboyant Baldrick and you have him in one!

Into the banquet hall we file where we feasted on a traditional Viking meal of Lamb roasted on the fire, swedes, carrots, barley gruel, 'bread', sour cream and ligonberry conserve. The meat was cut with a knife, but the meal was eaten for the most part with your fingers - much to the chagrin of some of our fellow travellers! Served with goblets of mead and water.  Every time something significant was said, it was time for a toast - a reverberating 'Skul' - and

then a hearty swig of the mead. They generously refilled the goblets of all those who partook a generous swig. True Aussies in style, we celebrated with the chieftan with gusto.  Donna was one of the lucky ones who got to join in the dance at the end of the meal.

All too soon our visit was at an end. The ship had sailed on and we drove for just under an hour to reach it, now docked in Svolvær.

Tonight we are promised something special on the outside deck just before midnight - we are sailing in through the Trollfjord and in this narrow channel, you can almost reach out and touch the cliff walls on either side of the ship!  Coupled with a moon hanging high in the sky over open water, it certainly made sitting up worth it. Too dark for a photo,but forever in our mind's eyes!


Another memorable day in a very memorable part of this beautiful world.

A personal alarm call

Michael Skypes with Antony (and Bella on full-lung volume) in the wee hours before he comes to bed. Antony should be out in the field with the rest of his battalion, but true to form has come in - injured again! He was getting out of the personnel carrier and about to put his helmet on when his (very thankfully unloaded) rifle fell and bounced back off the ground hitting him in the head, splitting it open above his eyebrow. A night in hospital and he is back home with his girls for the week and is now sporting a beauty of a shiner of a black eye!

99 bottles hanging on the wall - hang on a second - no, they do NOT hang on the wall. At 6 am this morning they are being very unceremoniously dumped and crunched by the recycling truck whose crazy driver seems to want to stop outside every hotel as though to say to the tourist - you lush, you!

Eventually we doze again and then at 7:30 am the bells of the church across the laneway chime out my personal good morning anthem - the Ave Maria. I can tell you it was pretty spectacular. Helen mind you, sighs, rolls over and pulls her pillow over her head while Michael follows his customery morning routine with his 21 gun salute giving the bells a decibel run for the money! (those of you who know him, will know what that means!!!)

It began to rain late last night and this morning is still pouring. We open the shutters about 9 am when we are finally ready for breakfast. The sight is dismal yet captivating. Breakfast is in the breakfast parlour on the ground floor. We are actually quite surprised at the number of people who are having breakfast as the hotel really appears very quiet - from the number here it must be almost full!

Helen opts to take a walk in the drizzle - she wants to explore a little and go to the Post Office. Michael joins her and I return to blog (and squeeze in a game of Scrabble). Michael gets some fantastic wet weather photos - you know, the Lake in a mist, clouds rolling like surf across the valleys in the mountains behind us, water trickling down the terracotta tiles on the roof of the building across the narrow street from us - almost close enough to lean over the small balcony we have and touch.

There is an amazing cloud rolling up and over the top of the hill at the back of the town that looks like a scarf draped elegantly around her shoulders. What mazing sights on an otherwise dreary day.

Later we head out for a coffee, going past La Cambusa (have a look at their web page, it is honest and shows why we value our encounters with people like this) to say hello to Beatrix and her family. Beautrix is not well and has stayed home today, but her mother Rosario is just as warm and welcoming. Hels asks for their recommendation for somewhere for coffee and she says that she is just about to go for some herself, would we care to join her. We happily accept the invitation - how nice it is to be included by some of the locals. So we join Rosaria and her youngest daughter Sarah for coffee where we chat about Stresa, other places not to miss in Italy and our homes back in Maryborough - you know, the intimate small talk that makes the world turn for us all.

They leave to go back to work and we leave to travel far - to the shop next door! Both Helen and I indulge in our love of paper products and I even get Bella a little something. Hmmm, wonder if Helen also got other specials?!!!!! Time will tell! Then its back to get the name of the restaurant they were talking about, and to the hotel. Of course, I want to go via the church to have a look. It is a simple parish church with very little statuary, but lots of paintings - all high around the top of the walls and set into framed alcoves. We can't take photos. There is a lovely saying to welcome visitors near the front door:
If you are not a believer, if you believe in someone but not in Christ, if you are seeking for something, if you think you have found some other reason of lief, come in anyhow and be trustful. Such simple welcoming words to invite all. Nice.
Michael and Helen go off in search of pastries and I manage to catch up with Gen for the first time in about a week.

This afternoon is spent with some blogging, a frustrating hour trying to find out why the car is still not ready, writing angry letters of complaint to both Opel in Germany and Vauxhall in England and looking at other options. Our 3 weeks in Italy is down to two, we have lost the opportunity for a week in Tuscany with Hels and just hope that we can squeeze in some key destinations before she leaves in exactly two weeks. Looks like we might head east to Venice and then south and west to Rome and Pompeii - anything else will be a bonus.

We get photos with Rosaria and Sarah as we head out to dinner at their recommended restaurant just around the corner from our hotel - Pappagallo. Just as well that we headed up at 7 pm. By 7:30 pm there is not a single table free. We soon learn why too - the food is just fabulous. Rosaria has recommended a couple of special ones that we order:
Entrees:
Cozze marinate (Mussels marinate) Helen and Michael
Bresaola della Valtellina (Dried beef with oil and lemon) Maria
Mains:
Trenette alla Saracena (Flat spaghetti saracena style - tomatoes, pesto and olives) Michael
Fagottini pere e formaggio (Money bags with pear and cheese) Maria
Lavarello spacceto burra e salvia (Lavaret with butter sage) Helen
Desserts:
All from the dessert trolley - fig tart for Michael, strawberry tart for Hels and Chocolate Tart with Pear for me! MMmmmmm
And as we leave, the wait staff who have been such fun even though they were very busy, took time to present Helen and I with the very gracious gift of a local calendar each and agree to a photo. Arrivederci guys - thanks for the great night especially to you, Lollipop Boy and Dean Martin!

When we get back to the hotel, out across the lake (between the buildings), we see the island of Isola Bella lit up like a birthday cake - sweet.

We're sailing away on the crest of a wave . . .

If you are a left-hand-shaker then you will recognise the following lyrics by the famous Ralph Reader:
We're riding along on the crest of a wave, and the sun is in the sky.
All of our eyes on the distant horizon, Look out for passers by.
We'll do the HAILING ! When all the ships around are sailing,
We're riding along on the crest of a wave, And the world is ours.

For those who have no idea what I am talking about, this is the chorus to a famous scouting song, sung at every Gang Show! And it seemed an apt way to start todays blog as we set sail for the Emerald Isle, the Isle of Smiles, the land of the little people - Ireland!!

So we had breakfast with the other Aussies and an English couple on their way home from a 2 day visit to Belfast. It was raining very steadily this morning and we could not see across the Bay to Stranraer from Cairnryan. Kay and Steve at Cairnryan House chatted with us as we were off, sharing some of their travel experiences which was lovely. We also had a chat about the various booking internet sites and together we agreed that advertising in print publications is hardly worth the money for the return through bookings from them these days. Better to have a good website (like they do) with an online booking form and good keywords.

Got an SMS from Donna this morning throwing some light on the truck slogan from yesterday - Quilton is the brand evidently! Thanks sis.

A visit to the Post Office was the first order of the day. We had accumulated 14kgs of brochures and booklets from our travels and visits to various attractions! So, bundled into four parcels we managed to get them and another bottle of amber gold on their way home for the princely sum of £94. Back home, double that and then say OMG!!

And still it rains. So we went to the Starfish Restaurant for a nice hot cuppa before going down to the Tourist Information Centre to get some information and a map for Ireland. Michael sets off for a walk in the rain to take a look at the local Museum (sans camera), while I settle down in the car with a novel. We still have a little while to wait before we can check in for the ferry.
Two hours before the ferry is due to leave we are able to check in - just to wait in a vehicle queue. Both of us with novels now - and still in the rain, although it has lessened somewhat now. After a little while, the sun wins out and the rain is banished - there are still clouds, but it is dry enough to encourage the owners of 4 MGs in the queue to fold down their canopies - showoffs!

At about 2:25pm we are given the signal to start our engines and progress to - - the next queue area! Not for long though and we are soon filing two by two (cars that is) onto the very impressive HSS Voyager - one of the stars in the Stena Line fleet. We manage to snaffle a window table on the passenger deck just six steps up from the car deck and have an uninterrupted view out. The engines roar and the captain annouces that we are about to depart Scotland for Northern Ireland. Then all goes quiet and we glide away from the dock noiselessly. Stranraer quietly slips by as we steam out into the calm waters of Loch Ryan. I am thrilled as we hardly feel a thing and my stomach stays put! As we come out of the regulated speed area of the Loch, the engines again change pitch as they rev up and the whole boat rises out of the water so that the bow is much higher than the stern - this act generates a wave that is about 1 metre high! So yes, check out that song chorus again - that us!

There are two lighthouses out on the western coast of Scotland here and the beacon on the Corsewall lighthouse sends steady bursts out into the Irish Sea as does the one at Portpatrick as we are sailing by. There are a couple of things that we find amazing - the patches of turquoise water amidst the blue of the deep, the calmness of the water - not even much of a swell today, and the fact that looking in one direction we can still see the lands of Scotland as the ferry cuts speed entering the channel to come into Belfast Harbour! Our sea trip is 48 miles, but at the shortest point, it is only 21 miles from coast to coast.

On board the staff are conducting a raffle to raise funds to train a guide dog. Most people are buying tickets and as it is only £1 and for a good cause, so do we. And what do you know? We won first prize! A bottle of DKNY Woman perfume and a bottle of SE Australian Semillion Chardonnay wine.

As we come into Northern Ireland the land looks very similar to Scotland's coast. But of course Belfast is a large city and there is no town of this size on the Scottish western seabord! The docks of Belfast look amazing when coming in from the sea-side. So we are here for three nights, staying at the Parkview B&B about 1 mile from the city centre. Much bigger than any of the other B&Bs we have stayed in - and really more like a hostel. Thankfully we have our own ensuite shower, but the toilet is on the landing below. Oh yes, we are three floors up! In the attic!! And for £61 per night! Belfast is a lot more expensive than any other city we have stayed in with the exception of London.

On the recommendation of the B&B staff we went to a small local restaurant. Satisfying but all in all a little ordinary. The staff were very very friendly though and the Magners Cider is, of course, wonderful as usual!

Edinburgh in the Spring

It is the most beautiful spring day here after a chilly 2°C overnight. The sun is shining and warming the air as we have breakfast and look out over a clear day on the water. With our chores complete, we decide to head into the City on a quieter (?) Sunday to get our bearings for a couple of days of intense touring and then head off to Queensferry to take a cruise on the Maid of the Forth to Inchcomb Island and back. Now the only problem with that plan was that it was certainly NOT quieter in Edinburgh today. I think that at least 50% of the population was in the city taking full advantage of the warming spring sun.

And as we were warned by David on Skye, Edinburgh is in a real mess. Some years ago in their wisdom, the city fathers tore up the local tram lines (hmm, echoes of rail networks a la Queensland guys!). These are now being re-laid amidst the biggest mess of traffic diversions and streetworks. Although we thought we knew where we were headed, we soon lost our way in the maze that the Edinburgh streets have become. It was quite an hour or so, oohing and aahing at some of the most amazing architecture we have seen to date. Most of it is Renaissance and Gothic in style, suggesting that the City of Edinburgh was a bustling growing metropolis in the 1500s and 1600s, and maybe later during a revival in the 1800s.

It is so hard to imagine the masons of the day, working in all that stone dust, carving beautiful filials and ornamentation. The most stunning clock towers and turrets, and beautiful lines in building corners, in colonnades of columns - and all only with hand chisels and mallets. It would appear the artisans of Edinburgh would have rivalled those of Florence.

However, we eventually found our way through Pan's Labyrinth and made a B-line towards Leith Harbour. The road works are unbelievable, although it has provided some insight into the track layout for the future MTC's! We follow the tourist signs for the Royal Yacht -Britannia but without any desire to visit this vessel, a mothballed debt which is probably still being paid off by the nation's taxpayers? At least from here we can find our way!

As we near South Queensferry, the Fourth Bridge (railway bridge) gradually looms ahead like the unearthing of an ancient reptile! This bridge is huge in length, height and breadth; raked with a cluttering of scaffolds and shrouds. It's maintenance is an ongoing project, which in part, a result of neglect over the years. The structure is still an impressive engineering feat.
Negotiating the steep decline to the ferry terminal, we cannot miss the meandering of parked vehicles - a mile in length, at least. These vehicles surely can't be indicative of the number of ferry commuters..... But no - there is a charity event down here today - people are abseiling from the Forth Bridge! Two by two - some ever so hesitantly, while another, face first demonstrating previous experience and with a blood-curdling scream, freefalls to about 4 feet from the ground! The crowd below just froze and you could have heard a pin drop if it wan't for his caterwalling. I really pitied the lady abseiling at the same time!

Despite all the parking mayhem, my Parking Fairy is sitting on my shoulder and as we arrive to find a park so we can get the ferry, a car pulls out two spaces from the ticket office! As I say, I may never win the lottery, but I will always have a parking space when I need one!! So we park and lock the car and go to buy tickets for the boat. We are just in time - the boat sails in just 10 minutes - just long enough for Michael to have a fag.

It is a little chilly on the boat, but no-one wants to sit downstairs on such a beautiful day, so we are all on the open upper deck. We watch as the abseiling continues and the tide draws out as we ease away from the jetty. Passing under the Forth Rail Bridge we can see men in bright orange overalls working on the bridge even tough it is Sunday. We are told that after years of neglect by the railways in the late 20th century, that it is a constant task to maintain the bridge now.

We share the Firth of Forth (m. a long narrow inlet of the sea) with various sailing craft, moored tugs, the Hound Point oil pipeline distribution point, lots of large rocks and a lesser number of small islands and the wildlife. We see grey seals, common seals, puffins, cormorants and the ever present seagulls as we sail up the Firth towards Inchcolm Island. The Island is home to the ruins of Scotlands most complete monastic house - a former Augustinian Abbey that dates back to the 6th Century. You can leave the ferry here and tour the island, but as it would take a further 2.5 hours out of the day, we decided not to and stay on the ferry for the return to the jetty along with loads more people who must have taken the earliest ferry over there. It is a little hard as apart from toilets there are no other visitor facilities on the island (i.e. food) and we are starving as it is now close to 3 pm and we have not had anything since breakfast. There are some WWII military fortifications (bunkers and listening posts) but like, who is interested in them - only kidding guys, I know Michael is!!

So back under the impressive structure of the Forth Bridge giving us plenty of time to admire the design and construction - it is said to be the strongest bridge of its kind due to a cautious overbuiding after the collapse of the Tay Bridge and the loss of a train and 75 lives. En route we observe the coastline communities and Blackness Castle. Across the water, we also see the Forth Road Bridge which mirrors the design of the famous Golden Gate Bridge in San Fanscisco. And if you are as interested in the engineering of it all as I am, check out the links I have provided.

So, back to the shore and the abseiling charity event continues. The participants coming down the drop now are numbered in the high 200s so I guess it has been a worthwhile day for the Chest, Heart and Stroke Association. When leaving, we notice that as soon one car pulls out, another pulls in, so the afternoon looms to be a long one for the organisers.

The traffic back into Edinburgh is heavy and once in the City we join the cars on the merry-go-round through the one way, diverted routes. We take the turn out to the Royal Observatory only to find when we get out there that it is not open to the public - so why signpost the route?? The residential areas are stunning and the people of Edinburgh are obviously proud of their city if the manicured lawns and the stunning gardens are anything to judge by. And they well use their public areas - there are plenty of parks and gardens and today they are brimming with the local population taking the sun!

We pass a cinema complex and knowng that it wn't be too long before we won't be able to see English movies decided to take one in. So off to see 'Knowing' with Nicholas Cage (one of my all time favourite actors). With an hour before it starts (and still no lunch) we choose to get something to eat. In the same complex there is a restaurant and bar that shall remain nameless. While the menu was great, and our starter very appetising, they waited for 20 minutes after we had finished to tell us that Michael's choice was not available. In the end, this left us with a whole 5 minutes to eat before the movie began - even though we told them we had tickets to a movie at 6:05 pm. Not happy Jan! The movie started off very well, but had an ending that was a little disappointing (though I am not sure how they could have ended it). Of course, Nicholas was great!

We finished the day with a drive through Edinburgh by twilight. So much built beauty - yes, Scotland continues to impress.