France - a gourmand's delight & a joy to be back

Ah, the bliss of a good and large bed. We both slept like babes to the sounds of waves breaking gently against the pebbles on the shore. This morning was just beautiful - the sun was shining, the breeze blowing, so we opted to have breakfast on the open deck at the back of the pub. Wendy must think that we look starved or something (and believe me, we do not - we have both put weight on while we have been in the UK and Ireland). I have poached eggs and tiny little tasty pork sausages while Michael has the full English cooked brekky - after all, it will be his last!

Stewart and Colin were filling us in on lots of local knowledge last night - such as HG Wells living in Sandgate, drinking in the pub and while living there wrote The Time Machine! Forgot that little gem last night in the aftermath of the cider. And they are telling Michael about the Battle of Britain Cemetery in Hawkinge just up the road. Now that is something to see, so once we set off we head there first. Takes us a little while to find the cemetery, but once there we ask a funeral director who is walking past for directions and we are graveside in a flash. Very moving. Lots of young lives lost - British and German buried within a stones throw of each other. Reverently and thoughtfully laid out and beautifully kept. Still, what a waste of a generation.
We then head over to Folkestone so that we can post another series of parcels home. As well as the usual packets of brochures and guide-books, today we post the last of the whisky from the Caol Isla distillery, and then there are the DVDs. Now, we have taken heaps of photos as you might imagine and I have an external hard drive (thanks to the generosity of my former workmates), but we are loathe to just have one copy, so before I deleted them from the laptop (all 120GB!) I copied them on to DVDs as well and off in a parcel go 32 DVDs!!!! Yep, just a few photos. Funny, now that they have been deleted from the laptop, it is running much faster (ha ha ha - no need for anyone to comment). It takes forever at the post office that is staffed by one woman, but finally they are done.

However, we have missed the check-in time and so instead of being on the 12:50 pm train, we are re-allocated to the 13:19 train. And here we were hoping to get an even earlier one Ahh, as I seem to often say, "The best laid plans . . ." Still we are in France in 25 minutes - how crazy is that but of course lose an hour to the time difference, so it is almost 3 pm before we hit the road. Back on the right hand side of the road and the 'wrong' way around roundabouts - ah, all good fun. I had hoped for a more interesting trip that did not involve using the motorways, but given that we have a 3½ hour trip ahead of us, and no hope of seeing the Bayeux Tapestry today, we follow the motorways so that we can get to Aunay-Sur-Odon before too late. And that little exercise is costly - a total of €23.70 (or $40.45) in tolls! Michael has to do the paying as the toll collectors of course are on the left hand side of the car! Ouch - don't want to do that too often. And the roadworks continue . . . good thing though is that the speed limit is 130 kph so we can move along (when not held up in roadworks!). And only one chateau worthy of a photo was on our route today.

We are looking to stay in some small towns as well as larger ones during our next while on the continent. So tonight we are booked in to the Hôtel de la Place in the town of Aunay-sur-Odon in northern France - heading west. It has a history that goes back to before the Gallo-Roman occupation of the area and was an important crossroads between Caen and Vire and between Bayeux and Falaise. In fact, it is because of this that the town is almost completely destroyed by strategic Allied bombing between 12 and 15 June 1944 - when 25% of the population was killed. All that remained was the bell tower of the Church of St Samson - and that was shaky too. In the next six years though, the town is re-built, including the church that originally dated back to the 12th century (as did a Cistercian Abbey now in ruins).

Tonight it is a bustling little town as we arrive around 6:45 pm with everyone hurrying to complete their tasks and get home for the day. Dinner is served from 7pm to 9 pm so at 8 pm we head down to the restaurant. We are somewhat surprised at the breadth and maturity of the menu. Feeling a bit sheepish, I did not expect to find gournet food at such a level in a small town of 3,000 people - but Oh. My. God. the food is absolutely to die for. We trawl over the menu and finally decide to choose from one of the set menus. Kamala and Wayne, don't drool while you are reading this (or you Helen, or Lisa). So, in the end, we have between us both the starters, mains and two of the dessert choices:
Apéritif:
Ricard Pastis (whoo hoo - thanks Fliss!)
Entrees:
Salade campagnarde (salade, gésiers, magret de canard fumé et aiguillette de canard) salad, gizzards, smoked duck breast and duck aiguillette (Michael)
Saumon fumé frais par nos soins et sa crème de raifort (Fresh salmon smoked by us and horseradish cream served with home made wonderful melba toast and cannelled lemon slices topped with caviar) Maria
Mains:
Tête de veau sauce gribiche (Calf's head with gribiche sauce) Michael (of course)
Faux filet de bœuf au pommeau et camembert de Normandie (Sirloin of steak with apple and camembert of Normandy) Maria
Desserts:
Profiteroles (filled with frozen créme patisserie) Michael
Petit crousillant de Camembert aux pommes sur son nid de salade (Crispy cooked camembert served on mixed leaves) Maria
Une coupe verre de vin rouge (Merlot) Maria
San Pellegrino water (Michael)
Espresso coffee for both.

Now, you can forget about needing taste-a-vision last night. For all the wonderful things about english cooking, they are not even on the same planet as the French. They have a sublime way of creating flavours that allows each to shine out, complementing each other while creating fulfilling dishes that are still light so you don't feel like you have just downed the beast. Michael's calf's head was served casserole style and to be honest, while it did not appeal to me, he salivated as he ate it. The broth looked deliciously light and it was filled with yummy vegetables. My steak was served with a small cassolet pot of veges - grilled tomato topped with thyme and rosemary, garliced french beans sitting atop the finest sliced mushrooms and a perfectly sculptured potato. Oh, how we love France. The service was wonderful as well with our waitress anticipating our needs and our order in English (but we need to practice our French again!!)

After dinner we take a quick stroll through the centre of town. The light is amazing and the buildings just shie in front of the waning evening. It is now 11:07 pm and has been dark for all of about 15 minutes. So I will finish and let Michael check his emails. Off to see the Bayeux Tapestry tomorrow.

Brighton, The Battle and Dover Castle

We set out from our luxury penthouse this morning refreshed and feeling at ease with our plans for the coming three weeks. We didn't do a great deal while at Southampton and saw not very much of the City, but we needed the break! But we have booked our accommodation through to the 5th July at which time we will leave France for points further east.

So, I program Kate to Dover via Brighton and at 10 am we hand back the keys and set out. The weather is superb - a warm 20 C. Knowing that we have a bit of ground to cover, and that we want to make a few stops, I have chosen the fastest route. Funnily we head through Portsmouth and then north to within 15 miles of London before heading again east and south. But it only takes us a total of 2.5 hours travelling to get to Dover via the motorways. I had programmed Kate to take us to Dover through Brighton and so when we got to Brighton, she began giving us weird directions, until I realised that we had not programmed her right to the Brighton Pier, and so once she had delivered us to Brighton, being the super-efficient little thing that she is, she had moved on straight away to the next instruction - and Dover! So we actually turned her off and horror of horrors - followed the street signs to the Pier!!

Brighton Pier and Kingsway (the road that follows the seashore) are reminiscent of our time in Blackpool - albeit a much more refined model with more up market property facing the sea complete with period pieces full of iron lace balconies - Edwardian more than anything else. And much of it is coloured a beautifully rich honey yellow that must be magical in the setting sun. Thanks to the parking fairy, we find a parking space on the beachfront and make a stop for coffee, to sit in the sun for a little while and to admire the views of the steel skeleton of the old Pier and the fun park on the new Brighton Pier and the English Channel. And we now know why the Brits hate getting sand betweeen their toes - just have a gander at their pebble beaches!

But we need to keep moving, wanting to see Dover Castle and the War tunnels before we head to our accommodation at The Ship Inn in Sandgate. But whats this? The Battle of Britain Memorial! As we draw close to Dover, we see a sign pointing to an exit for amongst other things, The National Battle of Britain Memorial. Then we remember seeing this when we arrived back in the UK in February, so it is a gotta see before we leave again. It is only a couple of kms off the motorway. We turn off (much to Kate's consternation) and find it quite easily. This memorial, kept in beautiful condition is actually being mowed while we are there. It is built with a sculptured flier sitting, gazing pensively out to sea in the centre point of three white propellers set into a grassed bowl and surrounded by a number of mounds, as well as a memorial wall and a number of commentary plaques. Oh, and by the way, there is a Hawker Hurricane replica and a Supermarine Spitfire replica tethered, straining at their restraints, ready to take flight again, just outside the visitor centre. Oh, Michael is nearly peeing himself!!

The aeroplanes may very well be replicas, but it adds to the overall presence of the memorial. The memorial is quite sombre and moving, as the names on the commemorative wall makes the conflict more real than surreal. The display boards which outline the course of the Battle confirms those challenges which faced 'The Few'.

From here we depart for Dover Castle just shy of 3 pm. That is not a real problem though as it is open until 6 pm at this time of the year. The site is huge and we are advised that the Keep is to open to the public at the present as they are changing the exhibits. Still, that leaves plenty to see. Michael heads off to see the Secret Wartime Tunnels whilst I take a gander at the Bailey and the Barbican of the Castle and visit the Queen's Regiment and the Princess of Wales' Regiment Museum. A fascinating history of the royal regiments and their battle conflicts.

The War Tunnels is an interesting wander through time, and not necessarily for the structures purpose. It is an engineering feat, considering the tunnel system is built into pure chalk. Constructed during the Napoleonic War for the purpose of billeting Royal Marines, who meet the expected invasion forces of the French. Abandoned for two centuries, the tunnels were once again occupied during the First World War as a coastal observation post and a magazine for storing ammunition and ordinance for the front lines.

With the defeat and routing of the British Expeditionary Forces on French soil in 1939, the tunnel system was once again utilised as the nerve centre for the evacuation of these very forces from Dunkirk. The architect for this remarkable ploy was Admiral Bertram Ramsey who orchestrated operation from within the tunnel system under secrecy.

After World War Two, the tunnel system was once again abandoned and all of the infrastructure removed. Prior to the tunnel system being open to the public, some of the ante-rooms had been restored with equipment from the era. These include, the Map Room, the Underground Hospital, kitchen, barrack rooms. The tour is also supported by archive newsreels, audio and visual displays adding realism to the visit. Regrettably, photography was forbidden due to reasons of 'security', so I am unable to provide you with images to show this remarkable piece of engineering.

We get away from Dover just after 5:30 pm and en-route pass a sign to the Samphire Hoe. Now, given the fantastic views we got from the Hoe at Plymouth, we feel that it is something to at least have a look at - and we are not disappointed. After passing through a tunnel angled on a 20% slope (down) we come out to find ourselves in a sheltered area at the base of the White Cliffs of Dover with the sea wall a mere 150 m below us. Whoo hoo. Out to sea there are 14 tankers, ferries and cruise ships plus one lone navy vessel - too far out for us to determine exactly what. And just like the Portsmouth Hoe, this one too commands great views with the white cliffs of France to be seen with the binoculars that Tracey gave us as a departure gift.

Over to Folkestone and our accommodation at the Ship Inn on the beach at Sandgate. Wendy, our hostess, explains that there is only street parking and is thrilled when we again find one just 50 metres down the road (who the hell wants to win the lottery, when we can instead always have a parking space!). Our room is in their guest house directly behind the pub - Parade Cottage. We are on the first floor and have the most wonderful view out across the ocean - ah sleeping like a babe tonight methinks to the sound of the waves rolling on to the shore just a stone's throw across the lane and narrow beach. Very nice. Down to the pub for dinner tonight and our last English pub meal. Michael has a Steak and Ale Pie while I choose Salmon Cakes, chips and salad. All home-made. All fabulous. If only their was smll-a-vision or taste-a-vision so you can share in just how good it is! I wash it down with a pint of their own (8%) Biddenden Cider - very nice - smooth like Bulmers and not as harsh as Strongbow.

To top it off, we are here on the night that publican Stewart (husband to Wendy) runs his weekly quiz night. We have just finished dinner as it due to start and after Stewart gives us a potted (hic) history of the pub, Sandgate and the general area with its involvement in WWII, how can we resist the challenge to compete. So we sign up with Colin, Marcus, Chris, Mark, Stephen and a Canadian couple also staying here to battle wits with Stewart. I must tell you, he did try to be a little fair and threw in a couple of Australian and Canadian questions as well - but it was not to be our night, coming in a healthy third with questions as obscure as: What is the start of the Grouse hunting season? (A: August 21) and Name all members of the Famous Five? (A: Georgina, Ann, Peter, Julian and Timothy the dog). Still, we gave a good account of ourselves!!

Finally we get back to the room and the blog after 11 pm, only to discover that Antony, Amanda and Izabella have arrived at home and so we spend a half an hour or so Skyping them. We also learn that Mum's (Netta) dog has had to be put down and that Robert has had a triple bypass and she is staying with Maria. No wonder we are having trouble contacting her.