Arles

Tolls in France are something else. On the way down from Strasbourg to Lyon, we paid a highway toll of €38. That is nearly $80 in Australian terms. So don't complain about the paltry $3 and $4 tolls in the capital cities guys! Today's was much more modest at €3.90.

As we do not have town maps for all the places we visit, I have been downloading directions from address to address with Earth Google. They vary in correctness!! Today's directions to our hotel in Arles had instructions like, go 46 m turn right into ... go 121 m turn left into ... go 62 m. So I knew we were going to be in for an interesting arrival. We turned off a fairly major local thoroughfare and immediately found ourselves navigating tiny lanes (could hardly be called streets). Twisting and turning with very tight turns, but we found the hotel no problem! Michael however has refused to drive these back streets and we realise why everyone has very small cars.

On the subject of small cars, Michael has been fascinated by what he calls the self propelled armchair - for those of you unfamiliar with what he is referring to - click here. They are everywhere and yes, do closely resemble something you would put in your lounge room!

We are staying at Hotel de l'Amphitheatre. Once we have booked in to our room and carried the bags up three flights of stairs - the last one a very tight spiral staircase that hugs the wall, we leave to have a look at the Roman Amphitheatre that is only 250m from our hotel.

It is so hard to describe what it is like to walk up a tight little street with the facade of such a huge structure filling the space that is in front of you. You come out from the end of the street to a large square that surrounds the amphitheatre, setting it a little apart from the surrounding buildings. This amphitheatre has a very interesting past. It was originally constructed at the end of the first century (90AD), has 60 arches and could seat 20,000 people on 34 tiers to watch gladiators or animal fights. Then, in the Middle Ages when the city of Arles was under threat, it became a fortress and a total of 212 houses and 2 churches were built inside the structure forming a fortress. Even though it is huge, it is still very hard to understand how this many structures could have been fitted inside!

And then around to the Roman Theatre. Not as big as the one in Lyon, it is still impressive in that it still sits amongst other ruins from this time. Listed on the UNESCO Heritage List, there are two columns and part of a lintel standing in-situ. The tiers and stage as well as the chorus are still used for performances every year.

We had walked down from the Roman Theatre to have a look at the Cathedral - St Trophime d'Arles . There was a huge crowd outside with a guide talking in French. We went and looked through St Annes Chapel while they dispersed. When we went back across the square and went in to the Cathedral, we realised that the crowd was a choir who were now rehearsing. It was very uplifting as the acoustics are brilliant (and there were some very very good singers!). Maria soon realised as many people poured in to the Cathedral that there was going to be a Mass and decided to stay. Turns out, it was a big day - celebrating the Conversion of St Paulo the Apostle and was being celebrated by Bishop Mgr Christophe Dufour. Along with the Bishop (who is Bishop of two dioceses - Arles and Aix-de-Provence), there were 46 other priests, acolytes and altar boys. There was also a procession of relics and much, much incense. One and a half hours later, I left as they started to hand out yet another A4 4page sheet!

Amongst some of the worshippers were men and women in traditional Arlesian dress. They stand apart from the others at Mass only visually. They mingle with everyone and the women seem taller with their high hairdos and their distinctive headwear. They are a source of interest to a lot of people and once outside in the square, there are many people trying to discreetly (though not all) take a photo.

Dinner at Chez Ariane:
Starter: we shared a Petite Charcuterie (home made pate, sausage (salami), chorizo, cornichons, jamon (smoked ham).
Entree: Soup de legumes aux panais et grains de sesame
Mains: Saucisse de Montbelliard aux lentilles, salade verte (local beef and pork sausage with lentils and a green salad) Michael
Saute d'Agneau, gratin de pommes de terre, salade verte (lamb stew, potato casserole and a green salad) Maria

There is no way to describe this meal and do it justice. It was just sublime. All the dishes were spiced - all different and very complementary. The lamb was flavoured with anise (hey - don't knock it till you try it), the potato casserole with nutmeg (very much like the one I make) and the lentils with bay leaves.

After our sumptuous meal, we returned to our hotel whereby I (Michael) decided to venture out to take some night photos. Eight bells and all are well. I proceed with camera and tripod into the night which is cool, overcast and comfortable. The streets are quiet, with the exception of the muted footfalls from those few folk walking their pooches. There is a gent who is urinating against a wall! Ah.... France.....

I continue onto the Theatre; hidden by a veil of darkness and silencing any further performance. I press on to the Amphitheatre where its former glory, of inglorious events, shimmers under the radiance of incandescent lamps.

The camera, set to 'manual', is secured to the tripod; shutter speed adjusted at 1/10th p/sec. and F-stop set for 3.5 exposure setting [click]... nice shot of the SW side. I move the camera to photograph the NW aspect of the Amphitheatre. I adjust the shutter speed to 1/30th p/sec. and F-stop a 3.5 exposure setting [click]... nice shot. I move to the northern portico, with previous camera setting maintained [click]... not a bad shot. I then proceed to another area when.... rain! No droplet, wind or any form of precipitous warning. It was as though Jupiter decided to upend an urn of water; I was drenched in seconds as were any further nocturnal ambitions! Back to the dry and warmth of the hotel.

We had always planned to try to keep in touch with the various family members. We bought a laptop equipped with a good camera and microphone and have downloaded Skype. It is paying off as we finally manage to get Gen on line and then succeed in reaching Antony. We had previously been able to video link with my brother Michael in NY and had made phone calls home to the two mothers. Gotta love this new technology. Our handle is mtcar0 for those on Skype who want to keep in touch!

This morning (Monday) we started with breakfast at the Hotel. It is reported in some of the travel sites as the best breakfast in Arles and we are not disappointed. Generous portions of morning breads and pastries are accompanied by really good coffee and the best preserves (including, Gor & Judy, a fantastic cumquat marmalade) we have tasted in Europe. It is still raining - quite heavily and very persistently. We plan to spend the morning at the Musée departmental de l’Arles antique. Not only out of the weather, this museum that focusses on the early development of Arles is truly fascinating.

The Museum has a collection that is mind blowing. Michael wanders in a daze - it is fascinating to watch him, looking at this, then that , then back to this again! There is the best collection of roman artefacts that we have seen to date. Lots of items of daily life as well as others reflecting health ad medicine, religion and religious practice and death and the rememberence of the dead. There are wonderful examples of aristocratic life and their trappings including richly detailed mosaics and detailed life size and larger busts and statues as well as sarcophegus. They also have detailed architectural examples, freizes and plinths. We spend a good couple of hours here and as we leave the third school group with their giggling teenagers (who cannot possibly understand the enormity of what they are to see) arrive. By the way, the statue of Diana that resides in the Louvre in Paris was found here. We have to accept the copy that looks out over the River Rhone from inside the museum! The diorama models are also remarkable.

Still in the rain, we are off to the Alycamps - the Roman and early Christian necropolis on the edge of the old town. It was too wet and slippery for me over the uneven ground, so I'll retire and let Michael tell you what he found!

Emperor, your sword won't help you out

Sceptre and crown are worthless here

I've taken you by the hand
For you must come to my dance!

from the 'Totentanz Textbook' - anonymous: Heidelberg Blockbuch, ca. 1460

One could be excused for assuming a day, like today; wet, dark and pendulous, should be ripe for an adventurous sojourn into a cemetery....Yes, sir! However, not just any cemetery, but an ancient late Roman/early Christian necropolis: Alyscamps.

As an interesting aside, the name Alyscamps is a corruption of the Latin, Elysian Fields which were coincidentally referred to by Dante in his Inferno... could this be suggestive? It was pouring with rain, the roads slick and awkward; and as we neared our destination the downpour abated to a drizzle. On arriving at the necropolis, Maria decided to renege on this visit as her feet were starting to ache. So, suiting up with a jacket, hat, camera and storm-stick I ventured through the heavy, wrought iron gates of Alyscamps.

My first impression, after negotiating the ticket booth, was one of utter silence with just a twinge of foreboding.... Upon entering this sanctorum, you first set foot upon the remains of the Via Aurelia, which was one of the main thoroughfares of ancient Arles. This thoroughfare has an uneven and broken surface, and being wet required a modicum of vigilance. The slight drizzle combined with the steel grey sky, encouraged the green from the surrounding foliage, mildew and lichen to reflect an element of iridescence (.... and this is not the product of an over imaginative mind!)

On either side of the Aurelian are marble and limestone sarcophagi, cremation graves, cippus and mausoleums which are now (regrettably) empty. Many of these recepticles are complete, whereas other yawn in their decrepidness. As I continued, my amazement mounted when I realised these recepticals of death have been keeping sentinal for over 2000 years. The remains of this necropolis, is just a minor representation of the original cemetery!

As you follow this sombre road, you will notice the inscriptions and epitaphs gradually change from the paganistic to polytheistic - the new religion: Christianity. Emperor Constantine certainly new how to embrace a new power base. The tower of the early Christian church, St Honorat, looms ahead of like the prow of a ship. Ahead of this aged though impressive structure lay an excavated pit, exposing early Christian sarcophagi which had been buried two deep. Skirting either side of this unearthed area are the remains of shrines, to whatever deity or Saint. The entrance into the church is quite macabre, and my interest and enthusiasm increased.

On crossing the threshold, all that can be heard is the tick-tick-tick of water drops smacking into their respective pools of reflection. A scuffing of shoes upon the dusty surface, heralds the cacaphony from the flapping of pidgeon wings. Startled, and senses honed to the gloom silence once again settles over this place. Tick-tick-tick. Looking up towards this once venerable ceiling, I can only marvel at the wonderful architecture. Tick-tick-tick. Now for the crypt....

In reflection, I can understand how those early Gothic novelists, such as Horace Walpole and Clara Reeve, derived inspiration for their respective creations.

Dinner tonight is at a local brasserie/restaurant. Nice enough (Beef Carpaccio as entree for Michael, Scampi flavoured with Pastis accompanied by Risotto and seasonal veges for both and profiteroles each), it is nothing on previous meals. The best thing is that it is opposite the Amphitheatre! Not much choice - everything closed here on Mondays - just like home!!

The fluidity of plans

We had planned after breakfast (granola, multigrain rolls, stewed apricots with anise, cold cubes of meats and cheese, OJ and coffee) to collect the car from the open parking lot in view of the hotel and head east to the Principality of Monaco.

BUT

today is wet and the wind blowing at 20 knots (that is almost 40 km/h!). As the trip down is all coastal and Monaco is expecting the same weather, we decide that this reportedly pretty principality will have to wait until we find ourselves in France for the start of the Tour de France in July.

So it is another day in Marseille (and a continuation of a grey background). We had wanted to see some of the museums, so we head out for the Musée d'archéologie Méditerranéenne. Trouble is, Michael has the map and for some reason, is having trouble reading it - so we ended up walking away from where we need to be and end up at the Old Major Cathedral. Mind you, this was easier said than done as the wind blows against us all the way so that we took two steps forward and the gale forced one back! Michael had got the umbrella now, but to have put it up would have resulted in a torn disaster, so its head down and just hurry on.

The Cathedral offers a refuge from the angry weather beating on us from the sea. Byzantine in design, the Cathedral is in darkness when we enter. With no lights on and very little outside light coming through the windows it presents as damp and dismal as the weather we have come in from. But when you sit and let your eyes become accustomed to the gloom, this is a very beautiful church. Plenty of gilt, but subtle.

The mosaics work is superb and the gold leaf is not overdone - even though there is quite a lot when you look closely. This is a smaller cathedral - not in outside dimensions, but rather in the area set aside for regular masses. There are a number of side chapels that appear to be used. This all creates a feeling of space and openess within the main nave of the Cathedral that is not overdone but rather has a feel of careful planning. The organ pipes are spaced on two sides of the nave and from the back, well above the congregation. I would love to hear this arrangement and in my minds ear, think that it would sound as though you were being enveloped in heavenly strains. I can just imagine hearing Amazing Grace or the Alleluia Chorus through them.

So back out into the tempest we venture! It is still blowing a gale, although the rain has eased just slightly. Having had a good look at the map, we set out again to go to the museum.

After a few more uncharted twists, we find the museum. What we find is totally unexpected. Everything we have read points to a major facility with some seriously major exhibits. Instead, we find an imposing set of understated buildings that give no hint of what they contain. In fact, the museum is so understated that we cannot even find where to buy entry tickets and manage to see the first exhibit (Prehistoric) without one!

The second exhibit we enter is the Egyptology one. It starts out with a collection of household items similar to those we have seen in the British Museum collection. There are parts of mummified animals (including Ibis!) And then we are in to the heavy stuff - literally. Granite statues and chunks of sandstone lintels and pieces of hieroglyphic statements picked up by collectors from remote spots where temples lay breached. The whole thing is housed in a mock up of a pyramid that looks more tacky than authentic.

Then there are sarcophagi. A number of them. Inner and outer caskets. Richly decorated painted timber ones, others covered in neat hieroglyphics in ordered rows and columns. There are canopic jars, amulets and all the paraphenalia needed for the mummy to successfully cross into the next world. We are sure that the curators at the British Musuem would have a fit. The two large granite sarcophagi lie out in the open for all to touch. Michael reverently and lovingly traces the carved heiroglyphics covering them.

We finally enter the last chamber of the exhibit. This room has been set up as the final burial chamber would have been laid out - complete with sarcophagus, steeles set at the four compass points, all the trimmings for the afterlife journey, large canopic jar, heiroglyphics describing the life and successes of the dead person. Michael manages to get a few photos (sans flash!)

We finished off looking through the Mexican, African, Americanas and Oceanic exhibits - all which pale into insignificance after the Egyptian one!

Another wander through twisting back streets and down long flights of steps brings us back to the tram line. We have not yet seen much outside the Port and associated old town and decide to ride the tram to the opposite terminus from the one where we are staying - just to see what could be seen! This takes us into suburban Marseille and only reinforces what we had previously deduced about the working roots of the City. Surprisingly, a beggar with a young girl in tow approaches everyone on the train for coins. She has a bag of just purchased groceries, so is not destitute. When she fails to get anything, she calmly gets off at the next stop and child in hand, walks with the bag of goods into a housing complex.

The architecture is still quite grand with the buildings a uniform 5 storeys high with ornate wrought iron balconies and window grilles. It is after Saturday trade and ground floor shops are generally shuttered. Many have an abandoned look, with roller doors covered in the ever present graffiti, but they are flourishing little enterprises during the working day. So, that discovered we head back to the hotel after 5 pm. Michael has found a laundromat and heads out with two bags and a novel.

Dinner tonight is eaten in. The Suite Hotel doesn't have a restaurant. Instead, it has a fridge well stocked with microwaveable meals, snacks and drinks including foil lidded glasses of wine. We enjoy surprisingly good meals -

Emincé de chou ‘violet’ et jours de porc confites, purée de pommes de terre et saucisson pistaché, pancetta grille sur chutney d’oignons (Cooked red cabbage with preserved pig cheeks, potato puree with pistachio sausages, grilled pancetta with onion chutney) - Michael

Millefeuille de dorade à la foundue de poireaux parfumée à la cardamom, risotto aux asperges vertes, veloute de pomme et celery au cumin (Bream millefeuille with leek and cardamom fondue, green asparagus risotto, cream of apple and celery with cumin) - Maria.

As I finish the blog, Michael is watching Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Off tomorrow to Arles and then on Tueday to Carcassonne where we are having our first homestay with some Couchsurfer hosts.

Old Port, Vieux Port or Fortified?

Marseille is a working city with a working port where on the main square fronting the up-market restuarants, local fishermen sell their fresh catch of the day from stalls. It is also a city where there is a high level of unemployment and one of the symptoms of this is the graffiti that is evident all through the city and a very obvious presence of beggars - particularly near tram stops, restaurants and shopping centres. (excuse the unclear pics - Michael's hands were shaky!)

Like other French cities we have been to, Marseille is a mix of wide planned avenues and a jumble of twisted streets that climb up to the best vantage points - usually crowned with a Catholic Cathedral! Here though, we see the best examples of everyday living amongst the museums and historic sites. Each day we can look in the windows of the Patisserie, the boulangerie, the tabac and the small markets.

There are a number of museums here that we want to see, more than what we have the time for - guess we are going to have to make some choices! The Museum of Mediterranean Archaeology looks really good so this will be one to try to get to.

Dinner tonight was at Chez Noel on the recommendation of the receptionist at the hotel. It surpassed its rather ordinary demeanor and the local perchance for ordering pizza (although they are cooked in a wood stove), but we opted for something a little more special:

Entrees

Salade de Sinner (Sinner Salad - octopus, mussels, scampi, scallops) Michael

Beignets de sardine ('donut' - lightly battered sardines with mustard sauce) Maria

Mains

Magret de Canard avec sauce aux Framboises (Duck breast with raspberry sauce) Michael

Tagitalle Pistou (Tagitelle with pistou sauce - olive oil, garlic and basil) with tomatoes - Maria

We took the little train up through the hilly streets to see the Basilica de Notre Dame de la Garde and then a boat trip out on the Med to the Frioul Islands (Pomègues, Ratonneau, If and Tiboulen) and Michael went up to Castle-If, which is perched on a small limestone island of 3 hectares. As the day was wet and a little blustery, this was quite a trip for me (who usually has no sea legs!) The Island is very impressive from the sea with the Castle looming out of the very bedrock of the island. This castle that was once a prison, and is the one on which the story of the Count of Monte Cristo is based.

The castle or Château d'If as it is referred to, was constructed between 1524-1531 as a deterrent to suitors with a penchant for invasion. As was the situation in 1536 when Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor whose personally led the invasion of Marseilles failed when he came up against the fortress.

If Charlie was peeved over the fortress, the populace of Marseilles were less than impressed when the Chateau was completed. In 1524 when the first walls were constructed to protect the access to the port, the residents referred to the edifice as "the troublesome neighbour". Upon its completion and subsequent installation of 200 soldiers and 22 pieces of heavy artillery the citizens of Marseilles protested unceasingly as they felt the fortress represented a central power intruding on their territory.

Within six years of the Chateau's completion it was utilised as a prison particularly for those "opponents of royal power" - namely Protestants. The first prisoner appears to have been the Knight, Chevalier Anselme, who in 1580 was accused of plotting against the Monarchy. He was soon to be found hanged in his cell. Over a period of 200 years the Chateau d'If had incarcerated approximately 3,500 Protestants.

It was not uncommon for families to have their sons incarcerated under Lettre de cachet. As was the case with Honoré Mirabeau who was imprisoned at his fathers' request in 1774. However Mirabeau's stay wasn't at all unpleasant as he rented a 'pistole' which was a comfortable and spacious room located on the first floor. The dungeons (which are inaccessible) are apparently windowless and without conveniences and were reserved for the poorer prisoners. Wandering through the fortress one is constantly reminded of its past history through the 'signatures' left by its detainees vide grafitti.

Albeit, the fortress is an impressive piece of architecture with spiral staircases, chambers, obliettes and cells. Due to the effects of the location and environment the structure is under constant maintainance. However there is an energetic project at present to render the external walls and towers.

From the sea, Marseille would have once been a Mediterranean picture - with high class hotels rubbing shoulders with traditional but smaller residential complexes that were painted in colours sympathetic to the sandstone cliffs that hug the city - soft tones of ochres, off whites, light oranges and the occasional pink. Nowadays however it is a different story, with these crowded out by box-like constructions erected in the 1960s and 1970s. The newer buildings are, at least, more sympathetic to the history. Today in the rain, it is not as pretty - although as we are pulling back in to port from the trip, the two forts flanking the entrance through the heads still look imposing and really impressive. As do the Cathedral and the Basilica high on the hill overlooking the City with the golden Madonna stretching her arms in protection over all.

There are an over abundance of pizzerias in Marseille and so tonight we collect a couple from one of the local shops. Ham and cheese, and minced beef with olives. Nice and not too filling. Certainly great bases that are not overloaded with too much filling. They only cut them in quarters, so you find yourself folding them in half enclosing the filling to eat them. Yumm-um

Off to Marseille - with a wonderful detour

We are leaving Avignon for Marseille this morning. We searched for accommodation before we left and found what appears to be a great option for four nights. Of course there area a couple of absolute essentials - free internet access, parking onsite or close by and preferably a shower as opposed to a bath and a decent size room. We have to take our luck with the comfort of the beds - and yes, they vary enormously! So we have booked four nights at Suitehotel Marseille Centre Euromed. Almost sounds too good to be true! Tram in to the City Centre at the door and at the port for a cruise ;)

Thought that we might as well do some sightseeing on the way, so went via Pont du Gard. Now, if we had thought that we had seen some amazing sights, our socks were about to the blown off again! This 'bridge' is what remains of a Roman aquaduct that was built around the time of Christ. Once you have a look at the weblink you will immediately know it - it is famous all over the world.

The scene is set in the parking lot where there are dry stone walls seperating the various areas for parking. You can't see the bridge from here and you are led to the information centre and museum. Unfortunately, as it is the middle of winter, most of this is closed. You continue to walk along a wide pebbled path around a curve. You can hear the running of water, but it remains hidden from view. You pass what was once an ancient olive grove with a number of aged twisted olive trees whose gnarled trunks are all more than 6 feet across (they probably date back to the time of the aquaduct) remaining.

Then along slight incline around a sweeping bend and there in front of your eyes is a marvel almost beyond comprehension. Thousands of years ago, with none of the modern tools available today, thousands of men hauled thousands of heavy rocks and with a precision that we would find hard to match today, constructed the means to carry water about 50 kms from its source to the City of Nimes.

We have to wonder as we stare at this marvel of engineering and ingenuity, as to whether any of the so called modern wonders will still stand in more than 2,000 years. I mean, the Sydney Harbour Bridge is still less than 100 years old!

We spend a couple of hours wandering all round the site, Michael racing first up one side to the top, then almost tumbling as he hurries down to the road level so he can rush up and meet me at the top on the other side. He is like a little kid in a lolly shop!

But we know that we need to keep moving and so jst after 3 pm we say goodbye to this ancient place that still has the power to speak so eloquently and leave for Marseille via some of the back roads. We go through small towns, many that bear the signs of Roman architecture. Eventually, we merge on to the highway that takes us south to one of France's oldest cities - Marseille.

The landscape changes and we cross a bleak high plain that could be in any coatal area - and then, we espy the blue blue waters of the Mediterranean with the white sandstone outcrops jutting boldly in to the sky with Marseille in the background. We have to concentrate as we arrive to ensure that we can follow the directions (that we have printed from the web) to the hotel. Like all the big cities we have come across, streets are not laid out in a grid, but rather in a haphazard fashion, follow the contours of the land.

Without too much drama, we find the hotel in the Port area just as it is getting dark - so your first glimpse of Marseille is the Port by night from the balcony. More tomorrow guys. I want to try to arrange a day cruise!

Liberté, égalité, fraternité

Well, there is a definite advantage to not having a set itinerary. On our way towards Marseille today we stopped for fuel and a bite to eat at the road stop near the village of Mornas. From here we could see the most amazing fortress clinging precariously to the edge of a cliff face above the town. We decided to stay closer so we could cut back and have a look. Ergo we ended up in Avignon.

We had not planned to stop here but boy - are we glad we did. We are now being a little selective about how much researching we do because the year will just fly by with us still in France if we get too immersed in everything that there is to see!

We know fairly quickly that we need another full day here and so we find a hotel within spitting distance of the Palace - Le Hotel du Palais des Papes and book in for two nights. Set in a refurbished old building it reflects the style that is quintessentially French.

Avignon is known as the City of Popes and our first visit today was to the Palace of the Popes. This incredible set of buildings chronicles the City's connection to the Catholic Church. It dates back to the early 1300s and is a testament to the might and power of this empire. There are actually two palaces - the old palace was constructed by Pope Benedict XII and the new palace constructed as a continuation of this by Pope Clement VI. With the completion of the new palace, an impressive courtyard was created enclosed by the two. This courtyard is called the Courtyard of Honour and is where we begin our tour of the Palace. Through the Treasury Rooms where coins and gold were stored in under (sandstone flagging) floor caverns into the Jesus Hall (where a lot of cursing was done!) and the Chamberlains chamber with its private staircase to the Papal Rooms. But the highilight has to be the Salle de la Grande Audience where the Pope would have received visitors. This room is now very plain and unadorned. In its day there would have been rich brocaded wall hangings and medieval furniture. Now, it is just a huge open space that measures 15 m wide, 20 m high and 60 m long. It is awesome just in its sheer size. The walls are plain as is the vaulted ceiling that was replaced after a fire long ago. In here, you just feel so 'insignficant'. This room is closely followed by the Grande Chappelle in the floor beneath. Just slightly smaller and completed built of stone with vaulted stone ceiling, it too is very plain with an altar at the eastern end.

There are some rooms that retain their medieval decorations including friezes and ceiling decorations. As this compex has had a variety of uses over the decades, these are worn and obviously very original with minimal restoration. This only helps to visually set the scene for visitors, walking through living history!

In the past two centuries, the complex has been used first as a prison and then as an army barracks (when they whitewashed all the walls including over friezes etc). This has led to the destruction of some of the ages old interior - guess this comes all over the world with new uses in old settings though.

The ticket we bought includes entry onto the Pont St.-Bènèzet. Being winter, both these venues close at 5:45 pm and as it is now 5:00 pm, we hurry through twisting back streets down to the bridge. The bridge now juts out into the Rhône where only four of the original twelve arches remain. It was constructed from 1177 to 1185 with major calamaties befaling it through the ages. By now it is dark and we take a shortcut up lots of back alley steps to get back to the Hotel.

We eat at Le Lutrin (The Lectern) that is a partner business to the Hotel. The decor is positively provincial French (Hels, close your eyes and you could be so at home here) and the food is absolutely sublime. Our menu choices tonight are:
Mains
Entrecote de Bœuf «Maitre d’Hôtel», Saisie à l’huile d’olive
(Sirloin steak topped with Parsley Butter and seasonal local vegetables - Michael)
Gardiane à l’Avignonnaise avec son riz de campargue
(Stewed (aged) beef parfum with red wine sauce, served with white rice – Maria)
Desserts
Assiette tout Chocolat: Mélange de mousse, fondant, glace et biscuits chocolates
(Plenty Chocolate selection - Michael)
Trilogie de Pagnal: Crème brûlée au Thym, à la lavande et à la fleur d’oranger
(Three crème brulee flavoured with thyme, rosemary and orange – Maria)

Finish with an espresso and it was truly delectable!

Today (Tuesday) is clear with a light cloud cover, but cool in a light breeze. Predicting 8 degrees but with a 'real feel' of about 6 degrees. I quickly write postcards to the mums before we set out from the hotel to find some breakfast about 9 am. Find a restaurant just down in the square near the Theatre and for the princely sum of €5.80 each we get OJ, coffee, hunk of bread (half a small bagette), croissant, jam and butter. You know - we are unsure if we will ever be able to eat the bland white stuff that supposedly passes for bread in Australia ever again! Searching for european bread recipes on the web already!!

Stomaches stuffed we head into the streets around the Palais des Papes on foot. Down the Rue de la Republic past wonderful examples of the history of France. We go to The Halles Market - the indoor produce markets - where delectable scents assault our noses - meats, smallgoods, fish, breads, fruits and vegetables and spices galore. Much quieter though than the one in Stuttgart!

We are following the green walking tour of Avignon and after 2.5 hours of solid walking on cobblestones I am not sure whether my feet or my hip hurts more. So back to the hotel I go to write up the blog while Michael sets off on the red walking tour. Added to the better part of the orange one we completed yesterday afternoon and we have seen much of the old city area.

Although the streets twist and turn and alleys jut in and out, it is pretty easy to follow where you are. As the centre is compact, tourist signs are found every 5-6 streets and if you continue to walk in a straight line its not long before you either come to the City Wall or one of the major streets!

The colour-coded walks within Avignon are self paced and ideal for a leisurely stroll, punctuated by stops at a café or esteminet. The red walking 'tour' takes one through the western section of old Avignon. The walk winds through narrow, and at times dimly lit, streets and lanes. All of the street/lane surfaces are covered with cobble-stones, cambered towards a central gutter and which appear to be constantly moist. A cloying aroma lingers, pungent and uraeic which inspires visions of bustling humanity; artists and artisans; merchants; beggars; street urchins; drunks and whores; lewdish behaviour.

The history oozes from the very surface of the buildings. Wherever you turn, there are constant reminders of Roman occupation, French Revolution and past insurgences.
"Liberté - Egalité - Fraternité"

Post Script
Ok so we turned many heads tonight. Ventured out for dinner after watching the Obama Inauguration on CNN and after walking half the length of the Rue de La Republique ended up coming back to one of the restaurants near the hotel - Restaurant La Grille.

Food was very good all round:
Entrees
Le potage du jour (soup of the day - Vegetable with Basil Oil) - Maria
La terrine courgettes et son coulis tomoatoes basilic (Zucchini terrine with tomato and basil sauce) - Michael
Mains
La tagine au poulet et citron confit (Tagine of chickenwith preserved lemons, served with couscous) - both of us.
Dessert
La crème caramel maison - Maria
La mousse lavande crème au miel (Lavender mousse with honey) - Michael

By asking for another two mousses to take away, I think we had set a new challenge for this restaurant. The waitress was very taken aback and did not think they could do it, but I am yet to find a chef who cannot rise to the occasion when his dishes are in demand! So, we succeeded in taking another two helpings with us, albeit in an un-lidded margarine container wrapped in foil and cling wrap. Believe us, it is THAT good. Another recipe for the deli!!!