Today is the most miserable one yet. Not only has heavy rain set in, it is being driven by gale force winds. At breakfast we are talking with an Englishman over here on business who re-affirms how spectacular the Au Grainan Fort is and that the views are really worth seeing them (if only the day was clear).So after a slightly emotional goodbye to Margaret, with a promise to keep in touch we went up to pack and be on our way.
I was uploading the last of the photos before I posted yesterday’s blog entry when Gen came on line. I had to tell her that she had just caught us about to leave. At which point she told us that we are always leaving. So here is a tip for all you people back home – we are usually online late at night our time – with Skype open as well. You are presently 9 hours ahead of us in time, so it would be early morning your time. If that doesn’t suit, try between 4 and 5 pm – we might just turn on the computer when we wake to check email!
It was uncomfortable packing the bits and bobs in the car in the wet. We have got it pretty well down pat now and rarely take the full suitcase in for short stays. We have a couple of packs that hold our smalls, our toilet bag, the laptop and the camera are the essentials plus whatever clothes we want for the next day. Much much easier when we are going up flights of stairs!
So all packed we head off. Once out on Groarty Road we can see the fort high on the hill behind the B&B. So there it was – in plain sight all the time! The road up is narrow, twisting and very uneven. Surprisingly (given the weather) we pass a number of cars on the way up. Once there, the rain is not so strong, but the wind is. I wait in the car again while Michael takes a sprint up to have a look. Our friend this morning was correct – on a clear day the view from the fort would be absolutely stupendous. Even today, in the bleak weather with its grey skies and misting rain, the view is amazing across Loughs Swilly and Foyle and across Londonderry and 
Bucrana.
The fort is quite enormous and although its history is not definitely known, it is accepted that it was the royal (clan) citadel in Northern Ireland from the 8th century. It is believed to have been built around the time of the birth of Christ on the site of an older monument. Although they are inaccessible now, 
Margaret told us how a friend could crawl through a labyrinth of passages under the walls when he was a child. When you see such archaeological sites in weather such as what we are experiencing today, you cannot help but wonder how they have stood such ravages for so long.
From here we are off to see if we can find St Patrick’s Cross out beyond Buncrana where we visited the other day. BUT, first we have to get away from Au Grianan. As we come down off the hill, we are confronted by cars parked both sides of the narrow road and then 100% blocked by attendees at a funeral in the church here. There were very literally thousands of them. Some in military uniform, others from the National Guard but mostly just normal people in raincoats and/or under umbrellas. We were in a bit of a dilemma as the hearse was parked in the centre of the road in front of us, thronged by people. After about 5 minutes waiting I eased forward and thankfully the people parted allowing us and the traffic behind us to pass. We only get about another 100 metres when we get to the T-intersection with the main road where traffic is crawling past cars that are parked along both verges sometimes 3 deep. This traffic is being directed by Garda (Police) Officers. Those cars extended for more than a mile on both sides of the road! We don’t know for whom the bell is tolling, but the crowd is phenomenal.
Further down the road we are stopped by more Garda Officers who ask to see my licence – a random check (or maybe not so random when they are stopping every car). The officer was pleasant enough though busy. We did not know it then, but today the Queen and Prince Phillip visited Londonderry – so we now understand the heightened presence of the police.
So off again we head – eventually arriving at Carndonagh and finding St Patrick’s Cross very easily – it is on the side of the main street into town under a constructed shelter. This area is known to have been founded by St Patrick and although the exact origin of the tall cross is not known, it is believed to be linked closely to the saint as it has an image of Christ on one 
side. Coming in to town, we see a church with a striking dome on the highest point in town. So cross visited, we brave the terrible traffic jam that seems to plague these small towns to go and have a look. The Sacred Heart Church is absolutely amazing – a very open and bright space with surprising colour. The cornerstone was dated 1942, but the interior has had a facelift since then. The honey coloured timber pews have not even been discoloured by the touch of years of hands. Take a look at the photo – who says that lemon and red are not perfectly at home in a Catholic Church!
It is now after 12 noon and we need to be heading south. Tonight we are headed for
Enniscrone on the coast out from Sligo and on the border between County Sligo and County Mayo. But in order to head south, we need to go past the funeral site again. No longer at the church, the massed throng has moved two miles down the road to the cemetery. And the cars still restrict easy movement. And the no doubt by now frustrated Garda are still on point duty. It takes us 20 minutes to get clear of the funeral, still none the wiser as for whom it was.
So down to Sligo we come. We are almost there when I see a sign that I thought was for a roman site, so off I turn to try to find it. Right down to the beach we travel, not seeing anything. On the return journey we spot what the sign was pointing to – a memorial to the Spanish Armada of 1588. How on earth Sir Francis Drake ended up here on the west coast of Ireland is anyone’s guess – my guess is that one of these storms was blow
ing and they were disoriented or even blown ashore! However it was too wet to get out to further investigate. We then passed the grave of the Poet Yeats in a churchyard in Sligo – if the weather is kinder tomorrow we might just double back to have a look.
From Sligo we turn towards the beach to get to Enniscrone and the Diamond Coast Hotel where we are staying tonight. Only opened in December 2006 it is a huge modern complex in an area where there is an incredible amount of new development happening. Guess that everyone want to live by the beach! Our room is large with a rural view. We have booked a dinner, bed and breakfast deal although we are advised on arrival that the restaurant is closed tonight and we will need to ea
t (from the same menu) in the bar. So what.
The menu is nicely developed if not very large. But there is a good choice with something for every palate. We select:
Entrees:
Atlantic Coast Seafood Chowder (both of us)
Mains:
Panfried fillet of Seabass served with Basil Mash and Tomato Coulis (Michael)
Poached fillet of Salmon served with Lemon and Herb Butter (Maria)
Desserts: 
Profiteroles with mint ice cream (Michael)
Apple crumble with ice cream in a wafer basket and fresh cream (Maria)
The food was delicious. That seafood chowder was thick with a whole selection of seafood – but not too heavy. It was served with a selection of breads – gosh it is going to be hard to go back to Australian bread. We were served by a very efficient, 
friendly and pleasant waitress Sabina who is originally from Ostrava in the Czech Republic and she is kind enough to point us to a tourist website on her city once we tell her we are going to the Czech Republic. She was very busy tonight but did everything with a smile! Good on you Sabina!!
No internet access in the rooms, so we are uploading in the bar. We won’t be online much tonight at all – not a bad thing! See you all again tomorrow!!!
Today is miserable. It is pouring and blowing a gale outside and inside I am miserable with a very sore throat and the start of a flu I think - heavy head cold, headache and all the joint aches and pains. Still, I have drugs so all is good. As it is our last day in Derry, it is now or never to try to get to the Giant's Causeway so after waiting to see if the rain would ease (which it didn't) and checking the weather site to see how close we could get a forecast to the Cau
seway, we find that Belfast is anticipating the 'possibility of a shower or two'. So, living in hope we set out. Hah - like we had any hope today of fine weather!
We set out in the rain and while not heavy, it is constant. Unlike Saturday, there are no queues to get into the Giant's Causeway site today - hurrah. So on with the wet weather gear and off we set out to go and have a look at this marvel of Mother Nature. 
Clochán na bhFómharach - a marvel indeed, for it is breathtaking architecture created by nature and at its finest. Although the wind is howling and at times the rain pricks like needles, it is a challenge for one's attempt to ignore this wonder.
We ride the Causeway's coach to 
the base of the causeway, as the rain is unrelenting and the downward slope is most yielding. The causeway is the result of ancient volcanic activity, a noble benefactor which has sculptured approximately 40000 exposed interlocking hexagonal basalt columns. Declared a natural wonder by the World Heritage Council in 1987, it is now the fourth greatest natural wonder in the United Kingdom.
The area is accessible by a three kilometer 
'Finn McCool' trail, and with signs alerting visitors to take extreme care due to uneven surfaces and landslides. One has to be constantly vigilant, particularly due wet weather. Still, there are those who ignore these warnings and are indiscriminate with their own safety - climbing over rocks on the ocean edge. You can only start to imagine how slippery the basalt is, polished to a high sheen by thousands of years of water.
There are six natural features which can be viewed from the trail: 'The Camel', 'The Granny', 'The Wishing Chair', 'The Chimney Pots', 'The Giant's Boot', 'The Organ. With 
the exception of the 'The Giant's Boot' (which is a solid weathered rock) the other five features are comprised of hexagonal basalt columns. The inclement weather can only enhance the beauty of these wonders of nature.
The legend accounting the creation of the Giant's Causeway was by the exploits of an Irish warrior named Finn McCool (Fionn mac Cumhaill). Folklore indicates that McCool built the causeway so 
his Scottish rival Benandonner could cross the Irish Sea to Scotland to fight McCool. When he saw Benandonner coming he was frightened by his size and so asked his wife Oonagh to hide him. She wrapped him like a baby and when the Sottish giant arrived told him that McCool was out fighting. Benandonner was then frightened off by the size of the 'baby' and fled home, destroying the causeway behind him! We kinda like the legend - lends an air of wonder to the cause!!
We leave the Giant's Causeway, but not the rain, and drive towards the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. Carrick-a-Rede means 'rock-in-the-road' and the structure is near the village of Ballintoy, and 11 miles from the Causeway. The bridge spans 20 metres and is suspended 30 metres above the channel below. It joins the mainland to Carrick Island which had been used by 
salmon fisherman who had erected bridges to the island for 350 years. The site is no longer used for salmon fishing and is now owned and maintained by the National Trust. These days the bridge is mainly a tourist attraction, and is taken down every year in late October or early November, depending on weather conditions, having been put up in March.
The walk to the bridge is one kilometer, but with the howling wind and intermittent rain makes it seem like two. The view of the coastline is exceptional, and traversing the bridge is an experience not to be missed - 
particularly during conditions like today. The bridge swings to and fro in the gale, it also twists and wobbles as one walks across it. The bridge IS made from rope and supported by two forty millimetre steel cables; the walking surface is reinforced by laced wooden panels. Yee-ha!
On way back to Derry we decide to detour north via Carndonagh to see St Patrick's Cross. However, it is getting late and damp so we decide to postpone the detour until tomorrow, and opt instead for dinner. Dinner is taken at Wotherspoons Pub 'The Diamond' at The Diamond in Derry. Steaks were the order of the day - quite edible, but nothing out of the ordinary - typical pub steaks.
So we come back to Groarty House. John has been taken with our blog and had asked how hard it was to start one, so I am determined to spend a little time with him to show him how easy it is. Stuart off handedly tells his dad he has one - a fact that surprises John a little, but then as parents of todays teens, we have all been surprised at the level of our children's prowess on 'that blasted computer' from time to time - so don't feel like you are alone there John! We set up the shell of a blog in Wordpress and I have charged Stuart with helping his dad to further develop it and keep it up to date.
John and Margaret had asked whether we had seen the movie 'Australia' and when we replied that it was just out when we were leaving offered to let us see it. So Margaret, Stuart and I sit down to watch it. But, where is John and Michael??? Ohh - boys will be boys and John has taken Michael to see his mid-life indulgence - a 1964 Sunbeam Alpine. And then, with Michael drooling, John lets him take it for a drive. Over hill, down dale, across the border and back into the city before they head for home. You should have seen the two of them when they came in - like little boys who have just been given a new toy!!!!
So, what did we think of the movie? Not bad (particularly from an outsider perspective) - a little overdone - we were able to be the voice of Aussie reason a couple of times. But altogether too much crammed into the space and time. Like many other
s there were at least two points in the movie when I though that it was over, only for the story to take another turn and then re-start again! But the sceney is as stunning as it gets and although exaggerated, the characters are typically how Australians are seen by many over here. Michael of course didn't think much of it - not his cup of tea at all. It was a late night to bed and we need to e heading off in the morning.
Oh, and by the way - no comments, I know I need a haircut - hopefully there will be time now we are putting down roots for a week in Galway!
Well the rain predicted by Margaret last night has hit. After breakfast we gave Stuart some little Australian gifts to recognise his birthday which, although is officially tomorrow, they are celebrating today as there is no school. Chat a bit more with John and Margaret and then head into Derry City to take a look around.
As the weather is damp and getting damper we 
thought that it might be an idea to buy a 24 hour ticket on the Hop On Hop Off red bus and maybe do one or two of the tourist sites. Nice idea, but not only are the schools closed, we are informed that everything else is as well! Where are we? Maryborough??! Oh well, I can certainly understand people wanting a day off - no matter what the industry they are working in.
So armed with a map from the Visitor Centre, we head off in search of the Derry Murals. Like the Belfast murals, many of these are found in residential areas and tell the story of the religious and political conflicts that have plagued Northern Ireland. But the areas in which they are 
located are much better kept and there are wreaths at the memorials that seems to suggest that there is a higher level of pride here. The murals themselves are mostly professionally done and therefore present a unified face - albeit with less of the emotion than in Belfast.
Back in town we see more murals of a commercial advertising nature - all are good though. We take a drive through the walled part of the city - yep, another walled city and get to The Diamond - right in the centre. Although it is raining lightly, Michael decides to take a bit of a walk - me? I'd rather stay dry so I wait for him in the car. Of course, while he is out on foot the rain gets heavier and so he gets back soaked. 
The Diamond is a cenotaph to Derry's fallen, and it is from here I decide to start my trek to mount the city walls. It is from the Ferryquay Gate where I climb the stairs to the gates mount, and it is apparent that Derry was indeed a garrisoned city. The walls' walkways are quite wide, at least with a width of 30'. This is unusual as with the walls of the other cities we have see, the width of the raised parapet is 6-8'. The anomoly is soon answered as I walk along the wall I come to the New Gate bastion with three 20lb muzzle-loading cannons.
This feature is repeated at various vantage points around the city walls, 
bastions and barbicans, which can only confirm Derry's troubled past. However, the walls' significance has drastically changed from offensive to providing the visitor with an uninterrupted panoramic platform. The views from Derry's walls are spectacular, yes and even in the rain. As with the walls in York, one has the opportunity to leave the wall and investigate an apparent landmark.
Such was the case where the cathedral of St Columba loomed ahead. As 
with most of Derry's' businesses, the Cathedral was closed as well! This of course did not hinder my curiosity to explore the grounds, at least! Like most Medieval and post-Reformation structures, the architecture is quite spectacular. Completed in 1633 in the Planter's Gothic, the cathedral became the Mother Church of the Church of Ireland. It is now the repository of many original documents dated from the Siege of Derry (1688-89), original portraits of William of Orange and the original keys to the old city of Derry. However, what is interesting is the inscription above the cathedrals' porch: "If stones could speake then London's prayse should sound Who built this church and cittie from the grounde". It was time to 
leave the cathedral and continue my promenade along the walls, before the falling rain became heavier.
I came across the O'Doherty Tower (now the Tower Museum), which was originally a lookout, is situated outside the city walls. Regrettably, this museum was closed as well, so with the rain increasing I decided it was prudent to return to the car and continue this exploration some other day....maybe.
With little else happening we think that the movies might be in order - the new X-Men Origins: Wolverine is out now. Park the car in the council (paid) car park and walk through the shopping centre (which is open) only to find the movie theatre closed - can you believe that?? A captured audience day and they are shut!
So that plan thwarted we go for a drive out to Buncrana on Lough Swilly which means crossing into the Republic of Ireland and driving in kilometres rather than miles for the first time in months. Still raining, but it is starting to ease now. This is the second largest town in County Donegal and has a population of 5,500 - so now we are starting to feel like we are home in regional Australia. Nothing open so back we head. On the way out, we had passed a graveyard that advertised a named cross, so we pull in to Fahan to have a 
look. The cross is carved in a slab much like some of the others we have seen recently in Wales and Scotland. Given the movement of people between the two lands, this is to be expected. BUT what wasn't expected was to come across the grave of HORATIO NELSON! No, not that one, but another with the same name, born in the same Norfolk town as that General and died in the same year - spooky isnt it.
By now it is almost 3 pm and we 
are hungry. Just this side of the border we see Harry's Bar & Restaurant - on the highway almost in the middle of nowhere. Did I say border? What border? Most Irish consider it all one country and recently voted against a bill put by the government of the Republic of Ireland to introduce border controls between the two. Anyway we pull into Harrys for a meal. And are very pleasantly surprised by what we see when we open the door. Very tastefully decorated and much bigger than we realised from outside. Our waiter shows us to a table and leaves menus printed on paper before rushing away to take one order and deliver another - they are busy and I guess with nothing else much open, they are getting plenty of business.
The menu again is surprising. And modern. Noted on the top of the menu is the citation Bridgestone's Top 100 Restaurant 2009. We make our choices and place our order for:
Entrees: 
We each had Baked Local Garlic Mushrooms, Glebe Brethan Rarebit, Tomato & Onion Chutney
Mains:
Slow Cooked Local Lamb Shoulder, Mediterranean Style (Michael) Baked Pollock, Prawn, pea and fennel hollandaise (Maria)
served with sides of creamed potato (soooo smooth and creamy), cauliflowe
r, brocolli and cheese baked rosemary potato.
Dessert:
I could not manage one but had a mouthful or two of Michael's fabulous Chocolate Orange Cheesecake.
The food was sublime - to put it quite inadequately! Our waiter turned out to be one of the owners, Donal, and he was most helpful. We had to ask what pollock was - a white but strong flavoured fish often used as Cod or Haddock. It was delicious. And Michael told Donal that the lamb was "climbing the charts". Turns out that this is the first year that they have been named in the Top 100 Irish restaurants - a fact that Donal is rightly proud of. So, well sated we headed back into Derry.
A drive past the theatre one last time shows us that YAY it is open and there are hundreds of people milling around. So back into the car park and down to the theatre just in time to get tickets and find a seat in the packed auditorium to see the movie. Very good if a little predictable - but well worth seeing.
So we are now back at Groarty House/Manor. Stuart's birthday party was in full swing when we got back - so nice to hear young ones enjoying themselves. We look out our window and one minute you can hardly see anything for th rain, and the next minute it is clear - hope tomorrow dawns brighter - we are heading back to the Giant's Causeway! Right now at 9:30 pm twilight is falling and the city lights are bright. Go figure.
We leave Belfast and travel up the motorway until we hit the start of the 
Causeway Coast - an incredibly scenic coastal route that travels up the east coast of Northern Ireland. Our first stop comes partway en-route where we see a sign to the Glenshesk Round Tower. We find it in the yard of a Church of Ireland in misting rain. The church is short and narrow and if the number of cars parked around it are any indication, the 
congregaton inside must be sitting on each others' laps. The tower is all that remains of a monastery established by a disciple of St Patrick in 460 AD. It certainly pre-dates the church as the graveyard has developed around it. Graves dated back to the late 1700s. We pass through showers for a while and then all of a sudden it is sleeting. Yep, ice falling! Wierd weather.
This coastal area is much like the west coast of Scotland - not surprisingly as on a good day from some spots you can see the Isles of Jura and Islay - LOL, we still can't tear ourselves fully away!! Van parks line the coast like coconut sprinkled on a lamington. Spots and spots and hundreds more - relocatable homes, on site vans, permanent vans, touring vans and motorhomes. You could be mistaken for thinking you were at Budgewoi or Huskisson!
We turn off the main route to Ballintoy Harbour. Yesterday we bought a small 
book on things to see in Northern Ireland at the Tourist Centre in Belfast and it speaks of this area. We were surprised by the number of people down here as the wind is blowing a gale. Very picturesque right on the coast where basalt folded rocks tell the story of a volcano and earth building long gone. I'm telling you - this photo does not do the weather of today justice - nor the swell! In the fields around here are countless cattle and the sheep. We have amazed before at the load on the blocks and it seems that up here in Northern Ireland where the rain is plentiful it is even more. The lambs are frisky and we watch them playfully jumping around each other like young deer.
We had wanted to go to the Giants Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge today. Silly us, we forgot that it was the May Day long weekend and you should have seen the traffic. Traffic! ....it was likened to the tormented souls in Pieter Bruegel the Elder's' painting - The Triumph of Death; souls who are herded toward an unknown destiny. Well, not that macabre but just as tedious. They were bumper to bumper at a full stop and still a couple of miles from any sort or parking facility or the attraction itself. 
In the nearby town of Bushmills there is a different memorial to the fallen right in the centre of the main roundabout; a testimonial to the local Irish who lost their lives needlessly during the Great War. However, what sets this memorial apart from others we have seen is the sculpture: an Irish Fusilier at the charge. The majority of sculptures depict a soldier standing at the last post - head bent and rifle reversed.
Further on we stop at the Old Bushmill's Distillery where the order of the day is Whiskey (and don't insult the Irish by quoting the Scottish whisky!) The Irish Coffee that followed a 
light lunch was deliciously smooth. And then we go back to take a ride on the Bushmills Railway Steam train around to their stop near the Giant's Causeway. But there is not another train for some time so in the meantime we drive a little further on to Dunluce Castle with its link to the Isle of Islay - Clan Donald.
The history of Dunluce Castle is a story of wealth, war, consolidation, betrayal and finally -destruction. Early records 
indicate the original fortification being established during the 14th century, within the then Earldom of Ulster. In 1565, the castle was wrestled from the grasp of the McQuillens by one Sorley Boy McDonnell after the Battle of Orla. Anyhow, being a lengthy story we'll leave you to follow the link...at your leisure?
As we drive away from Bushmills on the Causeway Coast route towards Londonderry we get held up in a traffic jam along the foreshore in Portrush that would rival trying to drive in mid-summer along Campbell Parade at Bondi Beach or North Steyne at Manly Beach. In fact, the foreshore of Portrush reminded us of Coogee - pubs; seafood outlets; apartment buildings and concrete!
We are now at Groarty House/Manor B&B on Groarty Lane, Sheriffs Hill in the hills just outside Londonderry where Margaret and John (and their son Stuart who excitedly tells us he turns 12 in 2 days) gave us a very warm welcome. It was so good to get back to a more r
egular B&B where the house is the family home, and feels like one. Lots of parallels - Stuart, and John before him, is in Scouts, Margaret is into handiwork and none of us can understand young people's need for social networking tools like Twitter! Our room is at the front of the house with wonderful views across Londonderry (herein after referred to as the locals do - as Derry). By night the lights are just amazing.
Margaret points us to Rafters Restaurant about a 3 minute drive away for dinner. A steakhouse that we think has grown out of a pub. The menu has plenty of variety and we settle on:
Entree:
A shared garlic and cheese breads
Mains:
Jack Stack Rib Eye (rib eye cooked to your preference [blue] stacked with roasted bell peppers, onion, mozzarella cheese and rich roast herb juices) Michael
Chicken Teriaki (fillets of succulent chicken marinated in their 'secret' Teriaki spices served with a curry mayo) Maria
Sides:
Tobacco Onions (Michael particularly liked the name!); fresh vegetables consisting of baby carrots and steamed cabbage (...for self propulsion); Parmesan fries.
Dessert:
Banoffi Pie (Maria)
Choc Brownie and cream (Michael)
Apologies for not supplying photos of our meals; we were quite knackered and couldn't be bothered going to the car to retrieve the camera.....
Bucrana.
Margaret told us how a friend could crawl through a labyrinth of passages under the walls when he was a child. When you see such archaeological sites in weather such as what we are experiencing today, you cannot help but wonder how they have stood such ravages for so long.
side. Coming in to town, we see a church with a striking dome on the highest point in town. So cross visited, we brave the terrible traffic jam that seems to plague these small towns to go and have a look. The Sacred Heart Church is absolutely amazing – a very open and bright space with surprising colour. The cornerstone was dated 1942, but the interior has had a facelift since then. The honey coloured timber pews have not even been discoloured by the touch of years of hands. Take a look at the photo – who says that lemon and red are not perfectly at home in a Catholic Church!
Enniscrone on the coast out from Sligo and on the border between County Sligo and County Mayo. But in order to head south, we need to go past the funeral site again. No longer at the church, the massed throng has moved two miles down the road to the cemetery. And the cars still restrict easy movement. And the no doubt by now frustrated Garda are still on point duty. It takes us 20 minutes to get clear of the funeral, still none the wiser as for whom it was.
ing and they were disoriented or even blown ashore! However it was too wet to get out to further investigate. We then passed the grave of the Poet Yeats in a churchyard in Sligo – if the weather is kinder tomorrow we might just double back to have a look.
t (from the same menu) in the bar. So what.
friendly and pleasant waitress Sabina who is originally from Ostrava in the Czech Republic and she is kind enough to point us to a tourist website on her city once we tell her we are going to the Czech Republic. She was very busy tonight but did everything with a smile! Good on you Sabina!!
