Shiny baubles

We take our leave of Innsbruck this morning. Last time I was here there was snow on the Alps as a backdrop to the City. But this time, we are about a month later in the year and the only snow are small pockets high on the slopes. The clouds roll down the mountains and then retreat, all the time, as though there is some huge being sitting atop, breathing heavily. So the backdrop is just as picturesque!

We head out of town towards Wettens. As we turn on to the motorway from the back streets of Innsbruck and then Innsbruck Hall, the traffic is building. Then, with a pile of traffic behind us, we spy a church - outside Volders - out in the middle of nowhere and attached obviously to a monastery or something like it. This one is different. The masonary on the outside of the building is decorated and painted with a pinkish orange hue. So quick exit right as I see a road leading down! We have inadvertently lucked upon Karlskirche! St Charles Church. Built from 1620 in the Early Baroque style, this church is reminiscent of the ornate St James Cathedral in Innsbruck, but with one major difference.

There is a quiet beauty about this one that was built for an order called the Servites. And if they are true to their vows of poverty, then to whom does this glorious example of marble and gilt and painted beauty belong? You and me? And it is filled with light thanks to the inclusion of a row of leadlight windows halfway down the walls and around the wall of the cupola that towers above us. There are also a number of impressive crystal chandeliers hanging throughout the Church - maybe made by Swarovski?

We cannot get in to the main body of the Church which is behind locked gilded gates, nor to the two side chapels devoted to Mary, but nevertheless the sight is breathtaking. And it adds to the dilema I face when confronted with such wealth in the properties of a Church that preaches support for the poor and oppressed. Especially when I have the first person examples given by Aunty Mary and now Michael. Hmmmm. The attached former monastery now houses a private secondary school.

Now, I'm nothing if not a glitter girl - Donna is Bling queen, but I guess I would say I come a close second! Last time we were here in Innsbruck, we went to the Swarovski Cristal shop in town but this time, I have convinced Michael to go with me out to the Swarovski Kristallwetten outlet. Situated just outside Innsbruck, you enter this ‘magical’ world but only after the extraction of €9.50 per person (€2 discount if you make a purchase in the shop!) There is the easily recognisable entrance – entering behind cascading water from the ‘Giants’ face. The information leaflet describes it as thus:
"Here a subterranean landscape made of thousands of crystals awaits you. Be prepared to embark on a journey between dreams and reality, where you will encounter fairytale characters and mythical creatures ... As soon as you step inside you find yourself in a deep blue chamber, far removed from everyday life" As Rod Serling said "...you come to a crossroads and there is a signpost up ahead, and the next stop - The Twilight Zone'". What a load of crock! This would have to be one of the world's greatest acheivements of advertising hype and con-artistry.

The whole experience is in reality a sometimes clever combination of animatronics, lightshows, artistic elements and a maze like warren of rooms that are very dark with a one-way system through the lot. And the number of people moving through is amazing - the company is certainly raking in the money through here.

We are disappointed as we had expected the experience to be more like that at the Wedgewod factory where you learned something of the production and the honing of artisitic skills. But it was nothing like that. In fact, you see little of Swarovski Crystals as they are commercially seen until the very last room where there is a collection of historic pieces. And from here, with your eyes becoming readjusted to normal lighting, you step into the showroom and sales area.

And this is where the cleverness of marketing really shines. The lighting is bright and the large room is white and mirrored with dazzling reflections going on and on and on. The works on sale range from crystal topped pencils for €3 each up to ornate pieces with price tags just shy of €5,000. And the sales staff are run off their feet!
You can custom make pieces yourself, or have a jeweller do it for you. But spend you must!

So Donna, we didn't miss a damn thing last time, and I wish we had not wasted the money (or time) here today. In fact, the best part of the visit for us was the cakes and coffee in the Coffee Shop at the end of our visit!

When we leave Wettens it is well after 12 noon and we now turn for the south and further east of Austria. We have read of the Hohe Tauern National Park and the highway through the park is considered to be one the world's most scenic. I try to program Kate to take us from Innsibruck through Zell am See and then to Lienz before heading for Salzburg - but she advises that there is no route. And when I add another way-point through Hallstatt, the route becomes a 7.5 hour epic.

We just don't have that amount of time, so we begrudgingly give the Lienz section a miss - pity, because this is where the really scenic area is. And again, I am sorry that we spent so much time at the blasted Swarovski place. Still, we pass through three of the four seasons in one day (everything but summer today with the highest temperature a cool 18.5°C) and some truly stunning scenery.

The rain follows us for a time and you can now appreciate why there is an abundance of water in this high country. Eveywhere you turn there is running water, rivers, stream, waterfalls. Water, water everywhere! And still the mountains and valleys breathe out the clouds!

This afternoon we cross from Austria unwittingly back in to Germany - a tight litte corner as we travelled north from Zell am See before we head east again to Salzburg. It came as something of a shock - I had through that the road was further east, but obviously not! And then back into Oesterrich! We pass lots of quirky little carvings, statues, advertising hoardings and roundabout art on the way.

And finally we arrive at Salzburg. As we come into the outer suburbs we glance to our left an see the imposing Festung Hohensalzburg - the Salzburg Fortress, and a couple dressed in traditional garb walking through the residential streets. The roads near the Jugendgästehaus (translated liteally as Youth and Family Guest House) are the biggest mess that we have encountered to date. The route as told by Kate is totally blocked, and we end up on a circutious route to get here.

The hostel is a pleasant surprise. It is modern, has a cafeteria and out room is a family room on the second floor that is huge with a separate shower and toilet, windows that open wide for fresh breeze and beds that are comfortable enough for me to have a nap. And we have th MOST amazing view of the fortress from the windows in our room. Parking is outside the door and the only drawback is that there is no internet connection in the rooms - but the wifi in the downstairs area is free.

There is a large convention centre next door and today there is a gathering of African people. Their music continues with the same lyrics, but with differing rythym and beats for hour after hour. And there is dancing in the grounds. And the sound of children's laughter and adult's joy - wonderful sounds to hear!

Tonight we decided to eat in once I have had a nap. The pizza cooked by the staff is hot, the crust crisp and altogether delicious. Add to this a glass of red wine and I am as happy as the proverbial pig. I have missed the nightly free showing of 'The Sound of Music', but believe me, I will make sure that I am in time for it tomorrow night!!!!

All that glitters is not gold (well, not literally)

Oh thank god for those cooler cotton sheets. The beds are narrow, the road outside probably the busiest one in all Austria (let alone Innsbruck) late at night and the night is hot and clammy following a lovely mountain storm that initially promised the delivery of cooler air - but with the windows shut because of the noise - yuk!

So we have to pull ourselves out of bed this morning - thankfully the shower is hard and hot so its not long before we are feeling more human. Down to breakfast right on 9am just as they are packing up for the morning (Michael mistakenly heard breakfast until 10 am when he checked us in) so we finish our rolls and coffee in a hurry so that the girls can clean up. The lift in this building is something out of some industrial past. You press a button to call it and then when it arrives, you pull open a door, stepping in and closing it behind you. There is no inner door, and heaven help anyone who is standing in the way when you have to open it at your floor as there is no window to make sure you are not going to hit anyone! Turns out that most of this complex houses university students in term with all the rooms available for the Youth Hostel during holidays (such as now). This room would be a nightmare for a student wanting to study - noisy and none to comfortable, but OK for a night or two!

One big plus is that we can take the bus from outside the hostel into Museumstrasse on the edge of the Old Town. So today we abandon the car (and Kate and Frances) and take the O bus that gets us to our destination in about 15 minutes. First thing we take a look at is the Hofkirche (Court Church) as it is just across the road from where we alight. So through a plaza we walk to discover the entry to the church is through the Tyrolean Museum of Folk Art. We buy a combined museum ticket and in through one of the loveliest cloister gardens we have seen to date we go to enter the church. This church is important as it records quite a bit of history (and displays some magnificent works of art) relating to the Hapsburg dynasty and the reign of Maximilian I whose empty sarcochagus is surrounded by 28 larger than life bronze statues of his ancestors, relatives and heroes. And while we are here, the impressive clock is being re-gilded and I sit for a while, mesmerised by the attention to detail it is getting from the craftsman perched high above me in a cherry picker.

Then it is back out into the street. We are very close to the main square now and I lead Michael down a narrow shopping street in the pederstrianised centre so that we come upon the Golden Roof from its side view. In doing so, we pass by a lot of cafes with their tables set out on the streets and the tourists packed in. And again we are astounded at the number of people travelling with their dogs. We see them on leads, in bags, in prams and even sitting at the table with their 'owners'. What next?

The Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl) is an impressive sight and Innsbruck's best known landmark. Built between 1420 and 1460, it was the Tyrolean state residence for some time. The 2567 gilded copper disc tiles gleam in the sun and attract every tourist for kms around! You have never seen so many cameras. But the best views Michael discovers are from the viewing platform high on the City Tower with its 187 steps (a piece of cake he says after the 718 of a couple of days ago).

From here we walk the Old City, mesmerised by the amazing architecture. The old city walls are still visible - they now form part of the walls of many buildings which have an impregnable look with the buttressed walls. There is (art) graffiti on many buildings - the earliest form of advertising as the scenes depicted usually relate to the activities carried out in the building. And later advertising took the form of shingles hung outside the door with similar designs. After taking a look inside St James Cathedral with its amazing cupola, frescoes and artworks, it's time to grab some lunch (given that breakfast was such a hit and miss this morning).
We wait for ages for some petulant teenager to get up and join her family from the table they were sitting at before we can sit at the Panini Cafe. Sounds very chic, but there were lots of locals eating there and the food looked fab. And it was. Our order was:
Tomaten Spinat Omelett mit tomaten und cremespinat gerfüllt (Tomato Spinach Omelette with tomato and creamed [pureed actually] spinach filling) Michael
Bauern Omelett mit Röstgemüse gebratenen kartoffelscheiben und speckwürfel (Farmers Omelette with roast vegetables, fried potato slices and ham speck) Maria
Washed down with Apple juice and sparkling mineral water. Yu-um.

After we finish, we continue our exploration towards the Visitor Information Centre. Our plan had been to go there first this morning and then to take the 'Sightseer' Bus. But we got a little waylaid! The Centre is busy, but the lass who gives us the information we are after is cheerful and helpful. The bus leaves down past where we alighted this morning and runs every 40 minutes. So off we set. Turns out we have just missed one. But he swings back on the way to havingsome lunch so on we get only to find ourselves parked with two other couples in a back street while the driver disappears for 20 minutes. Oh well, at least we are out of the sun! The route skirts the old city passed sights such as the Congress building, the Arsenal Museum, the Provincial Theatre, Rudolph's Fountain, the Triumphal Arch, the Olympic Sports Stadium, the Bergisel Stadium with its ski jump first built in 1925 and the Ambras Castle. The bus is operated by the local government bus agency and the driver could not be more bored or less enthusiastic if we had given him detailed instructions. Not the best advertisement for the service. We don't get off anywhere though as none of them appeal enough for us to want to spend 40 - 80 minutes there. Besides, we have seen the entry to the Nordketten Bahnen (Northern Cable Railway) just up the road from where we got the bus. Back in Innsbruck proper, off to the cable railway station we trundle.

We are headed up the mountain by cable railway and car to have a look at Innsbruck from on high. The views from up here are great. Not only do you see still in quite a good amount of detail, the City of Innsbruck and the Inn River that parts it, but you are looking across the valley into the southern Alps. The day is now very overcast and it begins to rain while we are at the middle station of Hungerburg. We have climbed 300 m at an average grade of 46% and 10 metres/second and from here need to change to a cable car to go higher to Seegrubbe at 1905 m.

In the car before us were three young guys with their cycles - one much dirtier than the others. Michael makes a comment about the lack of suspension on one of the bikes and they respond, so a conversation is struck. Fabian is the muddy one with a well worn bike. Robin and Wolter on the other hand are much cleaner with newer looking bikes. Turns out that Fabian is the local who loves to come down the mountain bike track while the others are visitors from Belgium who have hired bikes. They will go down the graded and gravelled 'road'. Road my arse - it is a hairpin nightmare for any driver let alone a cyclist as one of them finds out later, coming to grief just after the first turn.

But Fabian is a seasoned mountain-biker. Greg, you have no idea what these tracks are like. The have tight corners on cambered board hoardings that are almost vertical. They go down forested slopes and muddy dips. In all, they go down about 1400m in altitude and Fabian tells us that if he takes is tast he can do it in 20 minutes, but prefers to take a more technical approach and 30 minutes with fewer errors. I ask him how many times he has broken his leg and he laughs and says none. He also admits that his Mum has never seen the track - she doesn't want to. And neither would I !! But Fabian, give her a break and wash your own clothes - u mess 'em, u clean 'em! (From another Mum!) And Fabian's mum - you don't want to see the path he cycles - it will give you nightmares!

Finally, when it is raining quite heavily and the afternoon light is waning after 6pm we head back in to the valley. We decide to go back to the hostel and get the car so we can find somewhere more authentic than the tourist traps in the old city for dinner. Ah, but first, as we are walking back to the bus stop, we call in at the arko Confiserie for some more pralines (we are missing the ones we bought for Steph!). Hmmm - remember this shop well from our trip last time (he he he).

After driving around for about half an hour, we finally find a great little restaurant called Burgtaberne run by the Drucker family - Chef Barry, his wife Marlene and their very hospitable son Bernard. They suggest that we eat out in the patio as it is cooler which was very nice. Bernard speaks more than a little English - quite well in fact. He apologises that their menu is only in German and we reply that we are trying to improve. He jokes that we do not go to the Old City to have dinner but we tell him that we went there this afternoon and want to have something more authentic. When he comes to take our order, I request Schnitzel but before I can finish, he asks if we want to eat authentic Austrian food. When we say yes, and ask his recommendation, his first comment is that his Dad is cooking and he likes all his food - how nice! And then he suggests:
Mains:
Speckknödel mit Sauerkraut (Ham and herbs formed into breaded meatballs with sauerkraut) Michael
Tiroler Gröstl vom Tafelspär mit Spergelei und Krautsalat (Tirolean Beef with Fried potato, Fried egg and cabbage salad) Maria
Dessert:
Home made Apple Strüdel with vanilla ice cream and fresh cream Heaven!
and then finish it with Espresso coffees.
The food is fabulous and the service is fantastic. That cabbage salad I had is so refreshing and delicious that I ask for the recipe. No telling here - I will use it at home!
Bernard you do your parent's proud! Well done. Bernard also tells us that in the last month he has had two other Australian groups who have eaten there - FANTASTIC the Aussies are getting away from the fast foods!

He tells us that after operating the restaurant for the last five years, that in three weeks, they are closing the restaurant and re-styling it to a coffee house (that will still offer light meals) called Virger-Stüβe. So, if you are ever in Innsbruck, look them up, you will not be disappointed! You will find them in Universitätsstr between Kaiserjägerstr and Dreiheiligenstr. And make sure you let them know you saw them here!

Tears of heartache, tears of joy

OK to start the day - a red BMW kinda looks like an old Torana - not very sleek at all. And our car likes to travel at 120 mph (175 kph!!) - even if only for a short burst for me to test it - it guzzles fuel at higher speeds though, so we didn't do it for long! (Remember fuel is close to $3 Australian a litre in Europe).

I don't think it will ever matter how many times you visit Dachau or any other of the holocaust sites. Being a human, it will always reduce me to tears. It is almost incomprehensible how cruel man can be to man. We are surely the only species in the animal kingdom who actively chooses to be cruel or nasty or even unkind to one another. Not a very good recommendation.

As I have been to Dachau before, I want Michael to be able to tell you of his impressions rather than me just babble on again. So, here goes:

"God must have been on leave during the Holocaust." - Simon Wiesenthal
One can read, study and argue the reasons leading to the implimentation of 'Die Judenfrage' (The Jewish Question) and 'Die Endgültige Lösung' (The Final Solution), for in the end these arguments are pointless. The truth is seeing the machinery which was devised by a criminal element to add fear in an endeavour to prolong the 'Reich'. Through our travels thus far, we have seen the good side of humanity outweighing the bad. Goodness, therefore should prevail - it must prevail otherwise our universe holds no meaning. However, our visit to Dachau Concentration Memorial Site certainly made me most aware that this type of oppression continues to occur.

I had no pre-conceived ideas of what to expect when we drove into the memorial's carpark. The weather was bright, sunny and hot; the air mixed with the dust that visitors create when the walked, scuffed or sauntered along the main pathway. Mind you, the path was not a dusty track but a pedestrian thoroughfare lined with an aggregate mix. You know the type of gravel I'm referring to...it grinds underfoot creating a crunching sound likened to that of many marching and booted feet?

To the left is the Memorial's visitor centre and slightly further on, also on the left, is one of the many information boards strategically placed about the complex. However, this particular board indicates that the path we have all been treading is where a structure stood which housed the Gestapo camp headquarters, administration offices and interrogation rooms.

Further on, we arrive at the main gateway and ahead of it lay the remains of the railway siding where the trains unloaded the many 'inmates' destined for incarceration or worse. These poor souls were herded through the gateway with the following words laced into the wrought iron gate: "ARBEIT MACHT FRIE" - "Work Makes Freedom". Most of the inmates would eventually only find death within the camps' walls. It is imponderable to imagine what it would be like to be told that once you had passed through this gate you have no rights; no privileges; no dignity.

As we pass through the gate we are greeted by the sun glaring from the surface of the parade ground, where the prisoner roll call was conducted - rain, hail or shine - two or three times a day. All the incarcerates were to be accounted for: the able bodied, the infirmed and the corpses of the recently deceased were placed on the parade. Should any prisoner be reported missing, then the whole prisoner community were forced to remain standing to attention for hours on end. On a day like today, let alone in mid winter, I for one could not even begin to imagine the effects of such an attrocity as this?

Moving further into the compound, and my eyesight adjusting to the glare, I find that the parade ground lies before the 'Maintenance Building' which once held the kitchen, clothing store, workshops, baths; and on the roof was once painted the following words: "There is one path to freedom. Its milestones are: Obedience, Honesty, Cleanliness, Sobriety, Sobriety, Diligence, Oderliness, Sacrifice, Truthfulness, Love Of Thy Fatherland". Behind this building is the 'Bunker' which was the central site of terror within the camp.

"The green barrack buildings could be distinguished through the barbed wire. An air of foreboding permeated the place - frightful, cold as death. Never before have I experienced an atmosphere so uncompromisingly dangerous or so fiendishly hostile." - Kupfer Koberwitz
Of the thirtyfour prisoner barracks, only two remain standing whereby one has been restored and is open to the public. The crematoria I and 2 remain as found in 1945, however any evidence of human use has been expunged long ago. Throughout the complex are many memorials to the many victims, in the form of gardens, plinths and structures. I suppose the most imposing is the memorial erected between the parade ground and the Maintenace Building, created by Nandor Glid and built in 1968, it simply called: "International Monument".

I could go one and continue to provide a step-by-step 'tour' of this most moving and unforgettable memorial. However, I commend to you the links to the Memorial's web page.

(Maria again) While there we watch a documentary on Dachau in English. We had not got to see this last time I was here as the times it ran did not coincide. But today is different with us here for a large part of the day. I am almost thankful that we didn't get to see it last time as I don't think that Mum would have coped with it very well. The theatre that seats 232 (yes I was seat counting) was almost full and every time a single person let out their breath you could hear it. They will only admit children under 12 with a parent (has to be parent) and will not allow children under 6 to attend at all. Maybe that gives you some idea of how blunt it was. Certainly makes you wonder how they kept the awfulness of it hidden for as long as they did. I mean the smell locally must have been horrific.

While I waited for Michael later, there was a group of American students - I guess around 15 -16 years old. It was very interesting to hear them discuss world politics and where the perceived threats lie. They all agreed that England and America would never go to war against each other because they are both democracies who lead the world! (?) Interestingly thay saw threats from China and India (because of the population and the fact that their leaders are encouraging new commercial growth) but nothing from the Muslim world and even the Middle East was dismissed. We (the US) are there and are keeping everything under control! There was no mention of the internal threat. There was plenty of talk about how the US government can keep the US state safe. (911????) Very interesting. I hope that at some time they all learn to look and listen and hear with open minds. And I hope for all our sakes that there is never a real test of their navietie.

So we leave behind this stark reminder of our collective shame. We now turn south, back through the outskirts of München towards Austria and Innsbruck. Driving through the rain cools the day slightly and by the time we are in the Tirol mountains, the temperature has dropped 11 degrees to a cool and delightful 18.5°C. After the last couple of hot days it is a very welcome relief. Doesn't last long though, as soon as we are down the two 16% grades into the valley where Innsbruck lies, the temperature is climbing again and is soon back up to 31°C. (sigh) The Jegendherberge (Youth and Family Hostel) is not air-conditioned and with the open window the traffic noise will be unbearable, so it will be off with the quilts tonight. Still we are on the bus line into the old town in about 5 minutes and the room is clean with a private bathroom, breakfast is included for the sum of €104 for the two nights! And our sheets are pure cotton. And pressed - yeha!

And finally, from this morning, there are the true tears of joy. Hels is coming, Hels is coming - at last! Her tickets are booked, with an arrival in Paris on August 31 via Tokyo and Amsterdam. She will travel with us until 29 September - WHOO HOO! We Skype this morning and although I can't hear her, it is clear that we are both very very excited (he he, as if!)