Of corn fields, forests, Hermes and friends

Another wet morning greets us as we arise from our 'sleep-in'. Stephi is upstairs resting, Mathilda is in her room playing, Niklas is at playgroup and Felix is in the lounge room engaged in a tele-conference as he is working from home today.

The Lippold household had breakfasted well before we materialised. So, while Maria was taking her shower I made my way to the local Bäckerei to buy bread

for our breakfast. Now, there is one side to nature which never ceases to amaze me - the Germanic Social Wasp. These yellow-jackets are attracted to all forms of pollen and sugars. So, when I entered the Bäckerei and watched these wasps flying about the baked goods in a frenzy, the Bäckerei staff and the other customers didn't appear to be concerned. No one made any attempt to discourage these insects. Albeit, breakfast was scrummy!

The rain had been consistent throughout the night and weakened to a fine mist by this morning. So, 

undaunted I decided to resume my promenade 

which had been shortened due to yesterdays 

downpour.

Heading north in the direction of Schwäbisch Gmünd I passed a wainwright business which specialises in restoring/reproducing wagons and vintage vehicles. However, in the yard on a trailer there appears to be in progress a reproduction of a Roman ballista. This maybe in preparation for Medieval Games which are scheduled for May 2018. There is also a 19C hearse being restored, which may be in preparation for the Medieval Games as well?

I pressed onward. 

When one drives into Straßdorf, negotiating a roundabout is required. In the centre of this roundabout and as though on an alter, is a sandstone sculpture of that Deliverer of Dreams and Prowler of the Night the god from the Greek pantheon - Hermes. Germany is certainly a land of sculptures.

I pay the deity homage and continue onto the ridge towards the corn fields. As Maryborough is surrounded by cane farms, Straßdorf is surrounded by corn fields. 

The air is sweet with the aroma of ripening corn, 
which adds an excitement to my walk.


The corn fields have their own silent guardians. 
As I had stated, Germany is a land of statuary and 
Straßdorf is no exception.

As I continued the rain maintained its fine drizzle. Wherever I looked the heights were shrouded in mist.

As I continued the rain maintained its fine drizzle. Wherever I looked the heights were shrouded in mist.  The cathedral which overlooks Straßdorf was again camouflaged as it was the previous day.

Passing among these corn fields I came upon parcel of land with a collection of garden allotments. Each 

allotment with productive garden beds and a timber shed, and all neatly kept like rows of corn!

WAYS TO ART

As I continued on my walk I saw in the distance what appeared to be a statue, a sculpture in bronze, indeed. This art piece was created in 2002 by the renown German artist, Josef Baumhauer. The sculpture is called 'Daphne', representing the Greek minor goddess.

The weather is beginning to deteriorate. I forge onward across the ridge towards another sentinel

 in bronze.

'Sie doch im Osten das Morgenrot Edelstahlguss' translates as, In the east you can see the red cast iron morning. This bronze statue cast by Eckhart Dietz faces west as though challenging the wayfarer.

Pressing forward as the wind increases its pace,

 I come upon another guardian. Created in bronze

 by Max Seiz the sculpture is titled, 'Ecce! Me' and

translates as Behold! Me. 

Following the the path down towards the forests' edge I come upon a wayside chapel, as though to mark a pilgrim's progress without the trials and tribulations befalling Christian Graceless during his quest for 

the Celestial City.

Leaving the spiritual element behind me I deviate 

through the forest following its undulating path. 

The only sound was the constant tinkling from the 

falling raindrops. Such a peaceful diversion of 

dampness and the forests' scent.

Exiting the forest I come upon the 'thee-ways' indicating directions towards Straßdorf, Schwäbisch Gmünd and 

Waldstetten. I choose Straßdorf. I continue onward and 

following pathways, I eventually exit opposite the St Cyriakus Church in Straßdorf.

However, as I was about to commence my return home there is a sign indicating the direction towards

"Lebensalter"? Well, you know what curiosity did for the cat....

I ventured in the direction indicated by the sign-post which sent me towards the ridge from somewhere I had started my trek.

'Lebensalter' or Age as translated is a large limestone relief of sculptor Adolf Bidlingmaier.

My journey now completed, I return home.

Blog for Saturday, 2nd September 2017:

"Of Rocks and Wurst"

Not much of a blog for today folks. A fairly easy day which would depend upon your perspective.

After breakfast it was a spot of grocery shopping which Felix and I attended to. Apart from the usual staples, Felix regarded a few ingredients for dinner this evening.

Maybe it was considered I required adult supervision, 

or at best - hard labour. There were a few items around Steph and Felix's which required attending to.

Two piles of river rocks - not stones - ROCKS! A task which any Herculean Daredevil would stand up to the plate for. Ha! Knocked over in a couple of hours.

Between cleaning windows, racking leaves and 'earth' moving, Felix commenced preparing dinner. What a repast did we have: Lentils, bacon, Wurst sausage and 

Spätzle noodles. Great Swabian food.

Just as well Felix hadn't made Fava beans, this would have been disastrous. 

Good night folks . keep your candy handy!

In Romania where . . .

Had no access to internet yesterday, so we are playing catch-up.

Tuesday 8 August.

As we had travelled to and fro from Casa Dinainte near Cluj, the road passed through this dark, cool, quiet forest. This morning we made a quick stop so we could get a photo.  Had to be quick though as this forest is supposed to have frequent paranormal phenomenon (what else would you expect from a forest in Transylvania?!)  Not sure what the mix of trees are although there is birch among them. 

And the bees couldn't give one hoot or buzz about the ghoulies - they were happy drinking nectar from the roadside flowers.

Today we had a big day of driving - we began by heading west to Oradea where there is a star citadel to explore. We are skirting one edge of the Carpathian Mountains and the scenery is stunning. Its very alpine and you could be in any one of a number of central European countries.  The last of the summer grass is being cut and piled high to dry to provide winter fodder for livestock. Old men seem to do the work here - you never seen young men

wielding the scythe to cut the grass.
The times estimated to travel relatively short distances is amazingly long. But when you add winding hairpins up and down slopes and meandering through valleys beside rivers to the poor condition of most of the rural roads, there lies the answer why. Believe me Helen - the Amalfi Coast has nothing on these corners!

Right along this route, we pass stall after stall after store selling locally made goods.  But alas, they are all too big for us to consider buying for home. 
As we reach Oradea, the architecture takes on a new twist. It soon becomes my castle is bigger, my castle is more colourful, my castle has more ornate guttering - than yours!

I soon realise that we are going to have to keep pushing on if we want to make our final destination of Viseu de Sus by nightfall. So we ration the visit to the Citadel to one hour. We might come back on our return to Cluj if there is time.

The Citadel has been fully restored (probably with EU money) and there are some excellent displays.  Many of the buildings inside are in permanent use by either the Museum or other civic duties.  It began with fortifications in the Roman era and despite being beseiged many times by the Ottomans, the Mongols and much later the Turks, the fortress was never taken. It has been built over many times and in one archaelogical display, the

layers of building and life are clearly visible.  Parts of the original paintwork and some of the sandstone carvings that would have adorned doorways and halls have been found and are on display. We had only just scratched the surface of this fascinating place, but had to push on.

We now turn north to Satu Mare, then east on through Baia Mare, through Sighetu Marmatiei and finally turn south for Viseu de Sus.  We have traversed the first edge of the Mamamures - that stunning range of mountains that straddles northern Romania and southern Ukraine. Oh, if only we had more time.  Is there a promising Lotto game any time soon back home?  I'll throw a few more photos on to Facebook!

And what is so appealing about Viseu de Sus?  Well, it lies deep in the

Maramures and there just so happens to be a steam train here - part of Romania's last working steam logging operation (there were 1500 still operational up until the 1970s with the last steam loco being built for this industry in 1972.)  And to really make Michael's day and night, we are booked in to the Carpatia Express Hotel - where we sleep and dine in railway carriages!

So an exhausting day of driving (only) 447 km where it took a total of 10 hours driving - with that one hour respite at the Citadel!

We were greeted by Bridgette from Switzerland at the Dining Car as we arrived and once we quickly gathered the key for the cabin, she filled our bellies with Vegetable Soup, toasted Ham, Cheese and pineapple on toast, Swedish Meatballs with the yummiest piquant gravy and potato and pea mash and rounded out the night with Swiss Mousse. Two tired travellers gratefully partook!

And tomorrow - the steam train!

ROMANIA WHERE:

• Mountain roads twist through birch and fir forests - but prove no challenge for maniac drivers hell bent on overtaking at all costs
• If any building code exists, it isn't enforced - everything from timber sheds converted into dwellings, from besser block or clay bricks daubed with mortar, to concrete cancer riddled leftovers from the days of communist rule, to the newer gaudy 'mine is bigger than yours' painted in every colour of the neon rainbow 
• Storks nest two by two high on telegraph poles
• It is still ok or the farmer to take his wife to town in the high sided wagon pulled by horse or tractor
• Old men deftly wild age-smoothed scythes in the fields as young men race by in late model cars
• New money eclipses old money - we have never seen so many high end cars
• Everyone in the rural areas is a market gardener - and they all sit patiently selling the same produce at their front gates
• It seems compulsory to sit on a bench seat outside your fence chewing the fat with your neighbour and taking the last of the evening sun between 5 and 7 in the afternoon
• It feels perfectly normal to be sleeping in a railway carriage as you hear the steam locos hauling timber, and being fed by a Swiss cook.

Water water everywhere! A day of contrasts.

The Wasserstrassenkruez or Water Bridge just outside Madgeburg in Germany sent the email world into hoax spins a few years ago when people queried the legitimacey of the photos that were being circulated. But now, as then, this is very definitely a real resource.

It compares with the Falkirk Wheel that we saw earlier this year in Scotland in terms of ingenuity and actually performs almost the same function - well, they both serve to minimise the number of locks on their water courses and to transport ships and boats far more cost effectively than the alternatives! We had been through here once before in August (on our way to Paris to collect Helen) and although we could see it above us, we were obviously in the wrong spot as we could not find our way through the huge fence. With directions from the staff at the Hotel Sachsen Anault though we find it easily from Barleben near Madgeburg. As we drive towards the River Elbe on the motorway we can see the canal (although it doesn't really look any different to another bridge of sorts) from afar.

We begin our look at this engineering marvel at the lock system that allows boats to enter and leave the canal. As the height of the canal is much higher than the previous waters, a complex system of holding ponds was created so that the water would not need to be taken from a diminshing source. There are three locks side by side and the width of the canal would easily allow two good size boats to slip by side by side very easily.

It is a truly impressive system and I only wish that there was some way that I could get in to one of the towers so that I could get a better photo of one of the paths of water flowing over the top of the other! There are plenty of photos that you can seek out elsewhere and todayis not the best of days with only one barge travelling on the canal while we are there. Not like the plethora of boats that many photos show! In the autumn chill of 6 degrees, this is one lonely place today!

We had read a little about Magdeburg Cathedral while I was researching the Water Bridge and so once we have had our fill there, we head into the centre of the City. As soon as we reach the outskirts we start to see the dichotomy of this city where the new sits proudly alongside the old, without conflict, but more with a 'what the ???' While much of the civic architecture is old, much of the housing is new. Apartments blocks sure, but at least with an effort to make it interesting with blocks of colour and great public art.

But our time here is limited as we have to drive to Wuppertal and it will take us over 3 hours. With Kate programmed for the city centre, we manage to find a parking spot (thank you Frances) in the Cathedral Square! It is a truly impressive gothic building whose towers can be seen for miles away. In fact we could see them from the motorway long before we got anywhere near the city. This Cathedral has a very interesting past - read about it here. Today it is quite an austere in first glance, but if you take a seat and quietly look around, special discrete items come to your eye. Like the ornate tomb that lies in Mary Anne's Altar in the Ernst Chapel, like the restored choir seats with their faces and scenes relating to earlier occpiers on their misericords, like the Green man and the Tree of Life - one old, one new, tying the 800 years of history relating to this church together. There is a beautiful Pieta and the tomb of King Otto I. And that is just inside. Outside is another story altogether!

The current Cathedral was built after the first cathedral burned down in the early 13th century. This one is much larger and grander. But unlike other gothic churches, there are no external buttresses supporting the walls of this church. The outside is filled with the most fantastic examples of gargoyles, grotesques and agonys. These characters take the forms of animals and people in the most wonderful poses. And then there are the finials and crenellations and parapets and quoins. Aren't they a wonderful mouthful of words - watch out my Scrabble mates, I might just use them! If you need any explanation look here.

Oh, but Magdeburg is more, so much more. It was the cross-roads of the old Roman northern and southern routes, so there are ruins of former roman settlements including statues found in niches that line the oldest garden in the city. Nearby stands the remnants of the former City walls. In the main square, the Markt, lies the outline of the former cathedral that was only discovered in recent times. At the edge of the square there is brass model of the inner city area showing the old cathedral and the new one with all the related church buildings and the other city churches as well as major civic buildings. I always love these reliefs, they visually set the place up so that you can see the relationship between them all.

Surrounding the other sides of the Markt Square are grand buildings that once formed part of the castle and today forms government offices and museums, and on the fourth side are two modern office buildings of a similar height. They are striking and coloured in shades of blues and purples, yet they blend in beautifully in the autumn air. They aslo provide a link to another striking building.

Here in Magdeburg there is another of the stunning Hundertwasser houses. This one is known as "Die Grüne Zitadelle" or The Green Citadel of Magdeburg, a large, pink building of modern architecture completed in 2005. We had hoped that we might get to see it while we are here and low and behold, there it is, peeking out from behind the earlier grand structures, just off the Markt Square. A composite structure, it houses commercial spaces, offices, a hotel and apartments.

Weaving arcades with undulating floors connect a series of inner courtyards with columned colonnades that look more mexican than anything that you would expect here. We can't resist a visit to the public toilets and are not disappointed there either - although at €1 a visit they certainly are the most expensive! There are some shops that really belong here with truly funky items and I manage to buy a few 'souvenirs' of our visit to take home. This adds to the rather small lot of mementos that we have bought!

Later than we had originally planned, we finally left Magdeburg at 3 pm. The drive over to Wuppertal was in and out of rain again. Germany is determined not to allow us to lift our mood as we leave her for the last time this trip. Wuppertal is definitely a working city and our hotel - the Art Fabrik & Hotel reflects this. Once a factory building, this funky establishment appealed to us as soon as we saw it advertised. A series of artists has been involved in the design and layout and their works are all through the hotel, including the furniture of the restaurant.

Dinner is eaten in the hotel as it is raining yet again.
Entrees:
Minestrone - Michael
Special Fleischbällchen in Tomaten-reich (Special meatballs in rich tomato) Maria
Mains:
Rolled Seezungenfilet gefüllt mit Krabben in Hummer-Soße mit Reis und Gemüse (Rolled fillet of sole stuffed with prawns in a lobster sauce with rice and vegetables) Michael
Scallopine in Weißweinsauce mit der Hand geschnittene Kartoffeln und Gemüse (Scallopine in white wine sauce with hand cut potatoes and vegetables) Maria
Dessert: we both have the Creme Caramel that is served with a vanilla custard and chocolate sauce - very nice.