Getting away from it all

We had such a great time with Sarah and Alessandro that we have found another Agriturisimo business - Ca’ Serena is located about half way between Venice and Treviso in northern Italy. So after breakfast this morning we head out from the Plaza Hotel in Rimini for the 3:45 hour drive up here.

For the first half hour or so, we travel the roads out of the very urbanised Rimini in the middle of the weekday traffic of delivery vans, heavy trucks and suburban housewives going about their daily routine. Today there is hardly any sign of the tourists that now steer this economy - much of the infrastructure is shut up tight for the season - including rows of changing sheds that line the beach for miles.

Once we are out of the urban area, we see that the region has certainly not cut all its ties with the industry that once was its lifeblood. On every small stream that cuts across this delta of the Po River, there are fishing huts high on stilts at the waters edge with their nets on hughe booms, waiting to be dipped into the water to trap the unsuspecting fishes. The last time we saw these was near Les' farm in Bordeaux in France many months ago. Here though they are as thick as the flies that would swarm around them when the nets, filled with their catch (or maybe not) are hoisted from the pull of the waters.

At Savio we pass Italy's largest amusement park - Mirabilandia, although it too is shut up for the winter season it seems. The park has 30 hectares and a waterworld with 10 hectares. In fact the only sign of life that we see is a lone water skier in the lake adjacent.

We are travelling up the coast road - a very busy arterial road that carries lots of trucks involved in carting gravel that is dredged from the river system. This is the delta area of the mighty Po River, the longest in Italy. Again we find ourselves following roads that are on the top of levee banks or dikes. And again there are those fishing huts - obviously the river is a good provider given the multitude of them in this area.

There is much less development here - there are signs for camping areas, some little more than bare paddocks, offering no facilities whatsoever, others more like the recreational parks we find all up the East Coast back home. But there are no glitzy resort developments despite the Adriatic Sea being on their doorstop.

With the European winter season approaching, the crops are harvested and the land lies fallow. Its as though the Poplar trees that provde windbreaks have taken a sigh of relief at being relieved of their irksome duty and throw down their foliage in celebration, so the landscape takes on a wan, washed out look. But there are some winter crops flourishing - carrots and lambs tongue, a sweet, bread leafed plant that is used in salads in Europe. And more land is sheeted under plastic - ready to shield the tender young shoots of plants from the cooling earth beneath them.

Pumpkins are a huge crop here and we pass roadside stalls with every size, shape and variety imagineable. Some of the large ones will only be good for the dreaded Halloween celebrations as we see one claim, while others will still be good eating. Sarah had told us that the only thing they do with large ones is feed them to the cows and pigs. Aunty Flo could certainly have made enough pumpkin scones to feed the worlds armies with the fruit we see here!

Before we know it, we are traversing the outer suburbs of Venice on our way to Silea, 25 kms to the north. So we are back in the built up areas and residential precincts. There are all the trappings of people living together, huge garbage bins on the side of the streets, churches all spruced up, schools, new houses being built and roadworks - more roadworks.

Silea is still in the Po Delta and the are small canals with boats lined up for work or pleasure in a very rural setting. Quite obviously they also use some of the water for irrigation as well. Wonder what the salt levels are like being in the delta? And how does that effect the crops - maybe the potatoes are sold to the chip manufacturers already salted!

We arrive at Ca’ Serena after once again having to do a little exploring once Kates directions end in a field. This is a large farming concern operated by the Busato family who predominantly farm maize. They have just harvested. We have an apartment in a converted old building. This is nothing like the warm introduction of Il Sarale and Sarah and Alessandro. Rather, the two sides of the business are kept arms length apart. We get the distinct impression that we will be left totally to our own devices. For this time, that suits us just fine before another busy two weeks with Donna arriving at the end of the week.

Over the mountains and far to the Coast

This morning we take our leave of Il Sarale and Sarah and Alessandro. Its amazing how quickly you can become attached to people and places and these guys will always have a little corner of our hearts. It was a great time to re-charge the batteries and do a little thinking about where we are going.

Breakfast was generous as usual - toasted Italian bread, cured meats, eggs, cake and tart - all served with Sarah's jam and Alessandro's honey on the side. Like many other farmers the world over, Alessandro is having trouble with his bees and can't be sure whether they will produce much honey this year. Sarah has her own idea on one of the problems (and quite logical too) that stems from the fact that in years when there is a warm or short winter that the bees do not hibernate for long enough to regenerate energy for the following spring and summer - maybe some of the scientests would do well to listen to the farmers! Anyway, we buy a small pot of honey and some mustard to take with us as we leave. A quick photo and we hit the road.

As we drive down the road, the sun is high and working hard to dry out the tobacco leaves that are still growing. We do pass a number of farms where the harvest has begun. I wonder whether the leaves are rolled into cigars on the thighs of buxom wenches here as well? Hehe, nah - its mechanised - takes the fun out of it wouldn't you say! Most of the soil has been tilled for new plantings where crops have been harvested and it looks dry and dead - as though the same sun that gives life to the crops has been busy sucking the life out of the bare earth.

For a change in pace and scenery, we are headed across to the coast near Rimini today. Now that we have a little time, we are off the blasted motorways and again travelling through interesting countryside. However, one of the roads that is available to travel through the Apennines in this part of Italy - the SS3bis, is certainly a significant road. It forms part of the 4920 km European E45 road that travels from Finalnd all the way to the tip of Italy. Now, on todays journey we follow this road down the mountains towards the coast through some pretty stunning scenery. Most of the road is built either in tunnels through the slopes of the mountains or on long curving viaducts that rise like the arched backs of some mystical creature from the floors of the valleys below. And due to the heavy traffic that this road carries, it is often partly closed for maintenance or even replacement - and today was no different. In fact we apss through two areas of work - one near Terni where miles of the bridged road is being replaced - and the crumbling concrete that carries us safely across the valley is actually pretty frightening to look at! The next major work was further on, coming through a series of tunnels that are normally one way but at the moment are being used to move traffic in both directions - thankfully one direction at at time, controlled by traffic lights.

The Apennines in this part of Italy are wild and for much of the area, untamed. These are a sedimentary chain of mountains that in this northern part demonstrate the affect of the folding and faulting forces at work over time as tectonic plate moves against tectonic plate and the earth was moulded anew primarily in the Mesozoic and Tertiary periods. Ha ha, at last my geographic knowledge is paying off!!!!

The farming scenery we are seeing changes as often as the view does at the moment. Gone are the large open plots of the Umbrian plains. Here the farming is in small lots and there is a lot of evidence of subsistence plots behind houses - where the produce is varied and seems to be for the consumption of the family and maybe a neighbour or two. Where the hills do flatten some there are some larger plots ploughed ready for the new crops - that is, once they are awakened to some semblence of life again - maybe with the application of some water!

After a couple of hours driving we are on the coastal plain to the east of the Apennines where the lower foothills cling on to their defensive forts and castles as though loathing to give them up for the more convivial life on the coast.

The city of Rimini is a busy coastal city of about 145,000 people. Traditionally fishing and servicing the fishing fleet have been the main industries here, and today the vibrant coastal navigation of cruise ships in the area continues this link between land and sea. Now, tourism is the largest industry by far and this is easily seen by the Gold Coast look of highrise apartments that have and continue to spring up along the coastline.

We are amazed at how quiet the streets are and when we get down to our accommodation at the Hotel Plaza, the receptionist explains that the main tourist season is well over and that many of the hotels are now closed. It certainly makes parking the car nice and easy. I can't understand why so many would be closed - there are still lots of tourists around and she adds that there are still direct cheap flights from the UK and Germany operating. Guess that makes the Hotel Plaza smart - they are almost full! Better to get some of your daily rate and maximise the investment you have made in infrastructure I guess - and there it is, my tourism background rearing its head! Gee, a great day for using my knowledge base!!!

Michael goes out for a fag and a stroll to sus out the dinner scene. The sun is setting on a deserted beach as he comes back. We head out to dinner at a restaurant around the corner that is also still open, La Terrazza Ristorante and Pizzeria. There are quite a few tables filled and more and more people continue to arrive while we are there. The menu is huge with a great selection of meats and seafoods as well as pizzas. It takes us a little time to wade through it all and make our choices:
Entrees:
Polipo e carciofi (Octopus and artichokes) Michael
Salmone marinato (Smoked salmon) Maria
Mains:
Pizza Romana - pomodore,mozzarella, acciughe, capperi e oregani (Pizza Romana - tomato, mozzarella, anchovies, capers and oregano)
Scaloppine al limone (Escalope with lemon) Maria
Neither of us are hungry for dessert and so we finish with espressos and a complimentary Limoncello (so I get two!)
And as we return to the Hotel Plaza, you can see the almost deserted streets at the early time of 9 pm!

Exploring old and wild places in Umbria

Another glorious morning here in Umbria! We greet the day with another good breakfast and wonderfully strong coffee. The coffee in Italy is so satisfying, unless your request for "espresso dopio" (double espresso) is mistaken for 'Americano' (large coffee) which is disappointing for a better word. However, here at La Sarale the coffee is just "Stupendo"! Alessandro tells us that they will pick the grapes for wine making next week and harvest their olive trees - so as usual, a week too early or late! Anyhow, we've decided to head into the country for a drive into Gubbio east of here. We had intended this tour yesterday, however, our cooking class and tasting our creations for lunch, put paid to that decision! So, we set off...

Gubbio is one of the oldest settlements in Umbria, in the province of Perugia, and there is still plenty to see of the Roman occupation of the area over 2,000 years ago. I suppose the three prominent Roman examples in Gubbio are the Amphitheatre, the Roman Domus (residence) and the Mausoleum of Pomponio Grecino a suffect Consul under the Roman Republic. I have programmed Kate to the centre of Gubbio and think nothing of it when as we reach the city, she directs me to make a left turn through one of the narrow city gates.

Too late we realise that this road heads out of town and through to Scheggia and the Bottacione Gorge where we had planned to go after visiting Gubbio. So we just turn the order of things around! Gubbio is also famous among geologists as the discovery place of what was at first called the "Gubbio layer", a rock layer enriched in iridium that was exposed by a roadcut outside of town. This thin, dark band of sediment marks the K–T boundary, between the Cretaceous and Tertiary geological periods (65 million years ago), and was formed by debris from the gigantic meteor impact responsible for the mass extinction of the dinosaurs. Its iridium, a heavy metal that is rare on Earth's surface, but is plentiful in extraterrestrial material such as comets and asteroids. It also contains small globules of glassy material called tektites, formed in the initial impact. Driving through to Scheggia we pass through the gorge where all of this is very easy to see. The earth is 'banded' and because there is such a varience in the hardness of the layers, and also because of the karst formations here, the area is riddled with caves.

Once we have reached Scheggia we continue to climb up into Parco del Monte Cucco - home to amazing peaks and is dominated by Monte Cucco at 1,566m. Known for its cave systems, we see the edge of one of them from the road. As we move higher into the hills we pass lots of Franzione (hamlets), often with just half a dozen buildings. And yet there is life in these remote little places and today we pass lots of cyclists punishing their bodies climbing up or down the winding road. The whole area is marketed as a natural one for sports - cycling, climbing, free flying (hang gliding) amongst them. We follow the road through the park all the way out of Umbria and in to the region of Marches where we reach the much larger town of Sassoferrato. The town is found on the Via Flaminia, an ancient Roman road whose route is still followed and by us today. As we came across through the valley between the jagged hills, we can see the town above the valley floor. At its highest point is a large church that positively gleams in the early afternoon sun. But of course, its Sunday afternoon. The church that we have seen from so far off is closed, there are two nuns, one aged and bent shuffling in to the convent that is attached but otherwise there is no sign of life - residents are locked behind their house doors enjoying the weeks end. Recently we have seen the use of lots of those ribbon bows that we use for decorating wrapped gifts - and nothing else. They are used here to announce the birth of a child in the family, or to attach to cars associated with weddings. All in the correct colours of course. Here is one in the quiet backstreets of Sassoferrato.

From here, we turn back for Gubbio. I search for a different route back, but to do so will take us around the outside of these mountains and a trip of many hours, so we have to settle with going back the same way we came. There is quite a lot to see in Gubbio. It was settled in the time of the Roman empire and has a number of interesting ruins. From a distance you see the town dug into the hills with an imposing church sitting much higher above it - up where the hang-glides play. You can get a cable car to the top - well, they call it a cable car, I'm not sure what we would call it - they are small cages that you stand in for the trip up the mountain! They hold 2-3 people only!! Moot point, we don't have time to do it today (phew).

However, the most interesting of the ruins is the Amphitheatre. When we arrive back at Gubbio, we park near the Amphitheatre and stroll over to join other curious visitors. Now, the Amphitheartre was built during the 1st Century AD and constructed from local limestone - there is not a sliver of marble within its construction! Any Roman polis is easily identified by having a stadium, theatre or both - depending upon its importance. Gubbio, (or 'Iguvium' its original Roman name,) must have enjoyed some importance due to the size of the theatre; which represents the one of largest surviving Roman theatre in the world, and it is still being used for performances during the summer months.

After giving the theatre a good 'once over', in Michael's case - several, we drive and park in a parking area within the Gubbio's walls and then stroll up the steep and cobbled Via Della Repubblica, making our way towards the Consul's Palace. The sheer size of the palace gives some indication towards Gubbios' prominence during the Middle Ages. However, before reaching the Palace, we detour for a visit to the 12C AD church of San Giovanni with its views back down the hill to the market arcade. The church is quite unimposing from its external appearence, internally it is demure with the exception of the alcove containg the font. The walls and ceiling of the alcove are decorated by rather unique frescoes.

We eventually arrive at the Palace, which is quite imposing, a fact attested by the number of stairs required to negotiate the structure. The structure is now occupied by administrative offices, and museums which outline Gubbio's history. Without dwelling too much on the museums, suffice to say the palace's interior justifies Gubbio's importance. The elaborate, and at times, simple paintings and frescoes bespeek of grandeur and oppulence. Regrettably, photography was not permitted so there are no images to illustrate the palace's immensity. However, the most impressive amongst museums' collection are the 'Tavole Eugubine', the Eugubine Tables. These are bronze tablets where the ancient script has been chiselled onto them ....and... these tablets represent the largest collection of ancient Umbrian or Italic Language! Well, Michael almost wets himself when he set his eyes upon them!

To enter the museums is by way of ascention, ie. street level and numerous stairs - no elevators here. Albeit, one's efforts are rewarded by a panoramic view from the high parapet at the palace's summit - the view is quite awesome!

We say farewell to the palace and Michael makes a bee-line for the Duomo (catherdral), which is a level above the palace! Haste is required as the Duomo closes at 17:00, and it is now 16:45! Fortunately for Gubbio's system of elevators this time the journey upwards is lessened in part. Still, there is still a bit of a climb after alighting from the elevator. The cathedral is not one would expect when viewing the exterior. As with most of the places of worship in Gubbio, the structures reflect an aspect of austerity. However, it is quite unique from the inside...once again, no images as photography was forbidden within the Duomo as well. Although, the interior does reflect a time during Medieval Europe - well, why wouldn't it; it was constructed during the 12C AD as well! When Michael returns from his visit to the Duomo, we make our way back to the car - but not before detouring for a Gelatti....

Another day in Umbria draws to a close and we head back for Il Sarale. What was Sarah offering for dinner tonight? Antipasti of meat, pastry with potato slices, pastry wrapped basil and grilled eggplant. This is followed by torn pasta with parmesan reggianio and fresh walnuts (omg it is soooo good) and then a beef stew with mashed potatoes. She rounds dinner off with fig and almond tart - gosh, the simple pleasures don't get much better than this!

The art of Italian cooking

Happy anniversary to us - 28 years we celebrate today!

We had very little planned for today - maybe a drive this afternoon. But this morning, well, this morning we are learning to make and cook pasta the Italian way, courtesy of our hostess Sarah.

At 10:30 am Michael and I and another three young Italians staying here join Sarah in her commercial kitchen, don aprons and get ready to get busy! She begins by telling us that there are few hard and fast rules to making pasta and that there is never such a thing as a correct measure because it depends so much on the flour, or the eggs that you are using.

We begin with strong O flour and semolina flour, a little olive oil, salt and for some of us, an egg. The semolina flour is mounded on the marble kitchen top in front of each of us, we make a depression in the centre, add oil and salt, then slowly add water and begin to work the flour in, adding water bit by bit all the time while keeping our right hand busy drawing the flour in.
We work all the flour in and then begin to knead - "not with the fingertips", Sarah instructs, "use the ball of your hand. Draw and push, not too hard", she admonishes. Easy for her to say - she does this every day - literally! She uses a variety of pasta in the prima patti course she serves every night.

Before long, the pasta dough is ready. Far from it being something relaxing, it takes too short a time! We are kept busy using both a pasta machine and doing it totally by hand (my lot!). We make spaghetti, tagliatelle and parpadelle, ravioli, tortellini, cheppo (cigarette shaped) and potato gnocchi. The tortellini had a chicken filling and the ravioli was filled with ricotta cheese, truffles and grated fresh nutmeg. We made a raddichio sauce for the cheppo and a tomato and speck sauce for the tagliatelle.

All too sudden our 3 hrs time in the kitchen was done and we set the table for a shared lunch. Gosh it was so good! I asked Sarah how long she lets the pasta dry before she cooks it. Her reply - "I don't!! Remember, no rules!" Gosh, great fresh pasta, crusty Italian bread and San Gervaise red wine - there is a God and she lives in Umbria!!!!

Bugger the drive - after lunch I retire with a book and a pillow!
Ahh it is very good to be having a couple of days relaxing and the beautiful countryside around us is encouraging quiet and contemplation. The view out over the countryside just echoes the silence and peacefulness.

Then as dusk falls, the most beautiful sunset casts its wash over the hills across the valley. It is easy to see why people like Sarah and Alessandro have traded their former lives to be in places such as this, doing what they love

Dinner tonight consists of an antipasti plate of hard and soft cheese, tiny figs and huge grapes, plus a light savoury pastry, cheese and olive slice. This is followed by gnocchi with broad beans and then slices of beef olive with roasted eggplant and tossed salad leaves and we finished with a ricotta and chocolate chip tart. OMG! And I know that today I have eaten far too much - especially carbs! Thank goodness we do not do it every day.