Ding dong, the bells are ringing . . .

It dawned a cool morning - all of 2°C! Oh yes, winter is well and truly on the way in Europe. Felix wants to study today so after a prolonged breakfast, Steph and Michael and I head out to explore the countryside around Schwäbisch Gmünd. We filled the car with petrol after travelling from Slovenia on one tank of fuel - part of Slovenia, across Austria and then about a quarter of the way across Germany. Not bad huh! In Australia, the only way you could even travel part way across three states on a single tank of fuel would be if you were in the corner areas where they all meet!

While the weather is still fresh and crisp, the sun is shining and out of the breeze it is a beautiful autumn day. Although lots of people here in Europe say that they love autumn, I think that us, coming from an area where we have predominantly evergreen trees are truly enjoying the change in the season the most. What they have here that we in Queensland can never have is a totally different look of the landscape for each season. At the moment its warm to look at (probably to compensate for the falling temperatures!) and when there is a mist or fog, which is often, it is very surreal - as though you are looking out through a gauze curtain.

So, we begin our exploring at the remains of the Limes and Roman Fort just on the outskirts of modern Schwäbisch Gmünd. Throughout our journey, we are constantly awe-struck by the monuments we've seen. However, the Limes and Roman Fort need some imagination (with the assistance of some thorough information boards and models) but this does not minimise the expanse of the Limes Germanicus (Germanic Frontier) created by the Roman Empire.
Limes Germanicus represented a remarkable frontier line of walls and forts bounding the Roman provinces of Germania Superior (this comprised the areas of western Switzerland, the French Jura, Alsace and south western Germany) and Raetia (containing the Upper Rhine and Lake Constance). The Limes forts were established between 83AD to 260AD to divide the Roman Empire and unsubdued Germanic tribes. This frontier eventually stretched from the North Sea outlet of the Rhine to Regensberg on the Danube! The total length of the Limes frontier was 568km of walls and ditches; including 60 castles, 900 forts and 30000 troops.

However, we are concerned with the immediate area of Schwabish Gmund. To appreciate the area, and get a 'feel' for the Limes requires a long and enjoyable walk. We first start at the parking area, which provides an information shelter with substantial information boards (in both German AND English), together with a bronze high relief map. This information allows you to obtain an overview and directions to commence ones exploration.

Leaving the shelter, we are presented with a tall monument which indicates the regions the Limes actually reached: VINDOBONA (Vienna); CASTRA REGINA (Regensburg), to name just a few. Nearby we reach replicated sections of Limes walls and ditches. One side of the road (yes, and it's the original Roman road) is a wall section constructed from dressed tree trunks and shattering. The other side provides a wonderful example of Roman technology at its best - the composite masonry wall. After, several absorbing moments we head upwards and towards Kastell Freimuhle (Castle Free Mill). The fort was first discovered in 1901 and subsequent investigations have revealed the castle to have been 55m x 55m, about 0.28 ha. Little remains of the site, except for the wall and tower footings. At the centre of the site is a bronze model depicting what the fort may have looked like.
We then retrace our steps to the replica walls and proceed along the Roman road. The map at the information shelter indicates the road leads to a lower fort. This is an interesting promenade which is punctuated by altars, road statuary and mortuary stele. It appears the lower fort may be further than expected, however, it is indeed a glorious day for a jaunt. We come across the remains of a roman bridge concorse, here a modern wooden bridge has been added to allow visitors to cross into an adjoining forest.

Forest's in this region are just spectacular and more so when we cross the bridge into the forest. Following a well worn path, we climb further into the forest where we finally reach the remains of a small part of the wall. After enjoying the silence which the forest provides, we once again retrace our steps to resume our trek along the Roman road. Finally, we reach our destination and it is realised that there is nothing left of the fort - only a green pasture. The walk is not a disappointment as many interesting sights have been experienced, and nothing less than the forest itself.

From here we drive up into Schwäbian Alb so that we can look back over the valleys of the Rems River and indeed over Schwäbisch Gmünd itself. The light is magical, casting a warm glow over the landscapes below and it makes me want to find a piece of paper and some watercolours. From above, Schwäbisch Gmünd look a real picture with its mix of red terracotta roofs, statuesque civic buildings and churches and wooded hills.

Up into the lowest slopes of the Alb we find small towns and smaller villages in a rural setting. That 'alpy' smell of freshly fertilised land is back and you know even after travelling in and out of the Alps for the last months, we still crinkle our noses when we smell it. I'll never forget it, and I'm sure I never want to get used to it!

Passing through towns with evocative names like Straßorf, Lauchof and Lenglingen with its equine industry, through to Hohenstaufen with its castle sitting high on the hill in the forest over the town (we haven't got time to walk up), we continue on our way and cross the Neckar River to go to Plochingen - home to the Hundertwasser-Haus (reminiscent of Antonio Gaudi's architecture that we saw in Barcelona) named for the local architect who designed it. This ultra modern flowing masterpiece is home to commercial spaces as well as apartments. But Hohenstaufen is more than just one building and they have retained their old market square with some great examples of timber trussed houses. The old market house has been adapted to modern uses - something that is always nice to see. Modern art sits alongisde more traditional items like the 13 bell Glockenspiel that chimes its tunes at 11 am, 3pm and 5 pm daily. We are standing looking at thise small history column when the bells start at 3 o'clock.

All the time, we are en-route to visit Katie and Josef (friends of Steph we met when we were through here in July) at their home in Stetten - a small town set amidst the vineyards. Katie has been baking up a storm and we enjoy slices of Zwetschgedatsche (plum cake) and a Kugelhopf as we played with Joesphine their gorgeous little daughter (and missed our own little precious one Izabella). It was remarkable to see not only how much she had grown in the last few months, but also how much she has developed as a little individual!

And finally we met Olga and Rudi Mucz (Steph's aunt and uncle) for a final dinner with them at the local s’Būrger Stüble Restaurant just next door to their house. The food here is typically Swäbian and always delicious. And I have forgotten to write down the menu, so you will have to make do with a translation of what I remember!
Entrees:
Olga, Rudi, Felix and Michael began with Kürbis-Creme-Suppe mit saurer Sahne(Creme Pumpkin Soup with sour cream)
Mains:
Gänsekeule mit mit blauen saukraut und Kartoffelknödel (Goose leg with with blue saukraut and potato dumplings) Rudi, Olga and Michael
Casserole der Rehe und Wildschweine und Pilze mit Spätzle (Casserole of Deer and Boar and Mushrooms with Swäbian noodles) Felix
Schweinefilet in Cognac-Sahne-Sauce mit Spätzle, Kartoffelsalat und grünem Salat (Pork in Cognac cream sauce with Swäbian noodles, potato salad and green salad) Steph
Maultasche mit Ei mit Kartoffelsalat und grünem Salat (Swäbian ravioli with egg with potato salad and green salad) Maria
Desserts:
Steph and Felix and Michael and I shared two desserts that are the speciality of the chef - a trio of tastes - Mousse au Chocolat, Panna cotta und Nuss-Eis (Chocolate mousse, Panna cotta and nut ice cream). Mm, mmmm!
Of course there was champgane and red wine and liquers consumed in sufficient quantities to ensure that the conversation was lively and varied. At times like these, the rest of us are thankful that Michael is able to be our designated driver!

A great night for us all!!!

The mad scientist of an architect

It had dawned overcast but not raining and quite a bit warmer than the last couple of days. Still, there is a bit of a breeze so I continue to wear a long sleeved top - don't want the head cold that Donna has so generously shared to develop any further. After a light breakfast of muesli with banana and an apple, we head into Vinjerac to have a drive through look at the town - that takes all of 3 minutes! It is a lovely looking little fishing village that has grown to accommodate those summer people who have discovered it with its magnificent Adriatic coast location.

The Aparthotel Buratovic sits just outside the city centre with lovely views over the water and the Velebit Mountains across the inlet. Their facilities are great and I imagine that they would do a roaring trade in the summer months. There are a couple of other guests here as well so they do some trade in the colder months which must be good for the family.

We took a drive over to Nin - only went there because of the remnants of the Roman salt flats but instead found the most significant archaelogical site in the Adriatic corridor. You drive to the town which, for all intents and purposes is an island, over a causeway that has been developed over one of the salt flat ridges. The salt flats themselves are well, flat and shallow. The walls are more earthern than constructed of stone as the ones at Ston. And it was then that we got a bit of an eye-opening.

The town of Nin, like many in this area is walled. Here, the town has spilled out of the walls to the shore on the opposite side of the inlet and a bridge with three narrow arches (really just for water flow - no boat would get through!) connects the two sides. There is a lot of reconstruction work happening and as we drive around the outside of the wall, there are lots of pieces of the original wall still standing, some being braced and one piece being worked on - well, the men were there, sitting and contemplating the wonderful view, but hey why shouldn't they!

We park the car and walk back to have a look at the surviving City Gate. This one dates back to the 16th Century but when we walk in, there is the remnants of a much older one dating back to the 1st century and the roman occupation. There is hardly a soul around. The old town has been well restored and underfoot is all that beautiful white stone polished by the feet of the millenia. Some of the buildings have ben constructed using the rubble of previous buildings in the area. So we see bits of carved portals inserted into building walls and decorations from previous royal properties now having the pride of place above new entry ways and doors. We walk a little further into the town, heading for the campanile (bell tower) - still deserted, they was one older man sitting against a wall - the only person we saw while we walked through the main area. Much of the old town has been restored or reconstructed and it looks like someone really cares about the town and its place in history.

We pass the sign to the 'Smallest Cathedral in the world' and really need to check this out! The church was called the Church of the Holy Cross and dates back to the 9th century. And yes, it is t-i-n-y. It has been de-consecrated but an the archaelogical dig around the building exposed a whole world of interred bodies in the adjacent necropolis. Very interesting. Across the road from the cathedral was a Statue to Grgur Ninski (Gregory of Nin), a 10th century bishop who defied the Pope and introduced the Croatian language into the church here. Rubbing his toes is said to bring good luck, so we rubbed away (hmmm - don't know if it worked - it has been raining ever since!)

Back around in the main square, the Museum was closed but when walking through their courtyard looking at the capitals, column remnants and grave steles, the curator kindly opened it for us. It was so much more than we could have anticipated with items dating from 100,000 BC (pre-historic times) through the modern day - 1600s. There are examples from every age of occupation including three boats and remnants dating back to the 11th century! With the timber still fully intact on one of them!!! Lots of the displays relate to burial sites and the materials that they found in with the bodies - jewellery, earthenware and girdles. All too soon we had been right through the displays. We also learn that the seawall also sheltered a necropolis with hundreds of bodies that were later discovered. And in the watercourse that separates the town from the salt pans there is another old Croatian boat.

From Nin we are heading into Zadar and stop en-route so that Michael can have a walk over to the very unsual and interesting St. Nicolas Church in the Prahulje field. Legend says that seven kings were crowned in Nin. After the coronation each king would go on horseback to this church and present himself to the nation vowing to defend his homeland.

And so, in to Zadar - the Cathedral and St Donats are still closed we are told come back at 4. Went back, still shut. We strolled the back streets and by chance happened upon the open doors for restoration works into the Fransican monastery and its quite beautiful cloister complete with deep well. We are sure that the boss was berating his worker for leaving the door open so that people could get in - but now that we were there, we are determined at least to have a peek outside. The buildings are locked up tight - and there is supposed to be an amazing library of manuscripts somewhere here behind those closed doors.

From here, we could hear intermittent blast of mournful music and remembered that there was something written in Donna's book on Croatia about a Sea Organ in Zadar, so we went to investigate. This was amazing and like nothing any of us have ever seen or heard before. If you would like to hear what it sounds like, this is best video I could find (we didn't have the video camera with us!) - but it was much more active today with choppy water and a stiff wind. The water and wind belted out a lively tune that chased up and down the organ keys! And if you look up behind the steps that lead into the waters of the Adriatic, you will see the marble and timber seating that is reminiscent of a keyboard!

Not only was there the Sea Organ on the waterfront, there was also a very new monument titled 'The Greeting to the Sun'. Set right out on the point where Zadar juts out to welcome the Adriatic into its embrace, this innovative work is by the same architect who designed the Sea Organ. It encompasses a huge disc comprised of lots of solar cells that put on a light show at dusk in sympathy with the sea organ. Too bad we only found out that little bit of information tonight - because we could have gone back to see it. Bugger.

Around the outside diameter of the 21m disc is engraved with the names of the saints after whom the city's churches were named and the delination and time of the sunset on their date of birth at this place. It connects outer space (galaxy) with past space (history) with present space (here and now) with wet space (sea organ) and with deep inner space (bloody mind boggling)! The architect must be crazy to have all that in his head space and making these connections!!! That little gem all came from Donna! Maybe he had a couple of cans of Mad Bat under his belt! And leading away from the installation there is a solar line with all the planets bar Pluto (Michael walked way up the promenade but couldn't find it - although as it is to scale, it could be miles away.)

Now being 4:20 pm we returned to the Cathedral to try to have a look at St Donats but the man on the door was adament that it was closed. After asking some youngsters in the seminary across the square they suggested in broken English to try closer to 7 pm. So off to have a drink before the museum opens at 5 pm. The Archaelogical Museum of Zadar is closely connected to the one at Nin - primarily because this is where much of the finds were made. Many of the items referred to at Nin are on display here in Zadar and we can take photos to our hearts content here! Michael drools over the statue of Ceasar Augustus on display opposite the entrance door. Most of the collection mirrors the set out at Nin, so we don't spend quite as long here - oh, and the roman collection is still being set up - we did see lots of segments of mosaic floor leaning against a wall!

Michael goes around to check and finds the Cathedral open! It is quite plain and unadorned, but does have some truly beautiful altars. We only have 10 minutes before it is closed (I think it was only open for the Rosary that is being said by some local parishioners). We can't get into St Donats - it appears that it is only opened for concerts after I do some net research. This is really disappointing, especially for Donna, as this was the initial purpose of our visit to the City. It is architecturally very interesting and partially constructed from the ruins of the earlier roman forum on which site is stands.

Dinner at Seafood Restaurant Foša around at the marina that is set in the last remaining piece of the former moat around the city.
Appetiser - a prawn and salsa
Entrees:
Blue Fish Platter - svježe sardine na krevet od krumpira i zelene salate od graha (Blue Fish Platter - fresh sardines on a bed of potato and green bean salad) Michael
Dimljeni losos sa krem sirom i losos kavijar (Smoked salmon with cream cheese and salmon caviar) Donna
Teleći terrine s Pistacija u svitak Dalmatinski pršut s biser luk u Acetto Balsamic (Veal terrine with Pistachio in a roll of Dalmatian ham with pearl onions in Acetto Balsamic) Maria
Mains:
Lignje na žaru Jadranu krevet dalmatinskog stila blitva lišće (Grilled Adriatic Squid on a bed of Dalmatian style Swiss Chard leaves) Michael
Baby biftek s tartufima služio na krevetu u pire od krumpira s tartufima sos (Baby beefsteak with truffles served on a bed of mashed potatoes with a truffle gravy) Donna
Žaru Adriatic Dory sautéed s povrćem (Grilled Adriatic Dory with sauteed vegetables) Maria
Desserts:
Rožata - puding od karamela (Rožata - caramel pudding) Michael
Voće minestrone sa Sorbet od limuna (Fruit minestrone with lemon sorbet) Donna
Limun krema s javorov sirup (Lemon cream with maple syrup) Maria
We finished with coffees before waddling back to the car via a short stop to admire the city walls by the lights of night!

The cost of parking a car in Split is Kn 430!

This morning the storm has blown through. Last night we heard glass breaking - turns out it was one of the tables from the terrace where we enjoyed our breakfast yesterday morning - thankfully, when it landed at the end of the car park, it had missed all the cars!
Apartments Johnny is the best of both worlds - extra space in the apartment rooms but with the provision of breakfast so you can relax! Breakfast is served in the eating room in the back yard as it is still too blowy to eat outside. We have to wait 5 minutes as there is not enough room for everyone at one time. Ztravka again cooks us lovely omelettes and we share our meal with a Finnish family also staying here. In fact, for the off season, these apartments are really quite busy.

We have been seeing these revolutionary style signs proclaiming Torcida 1950 along the roadsides over the last few days. Well we finally checked it out on the web and after a number of misses due to me mis-spelling the name, we finally learn that it is a football (soccer) fan club that is known for their vocal and violent and intimidating behaviour of opposition teams and their fans. Guess its all political to them!

We head into Split intending to have a look at Diocletians Palace. Parking is the worst we have ever come across - there is absolutely nothing in the immediate or even nearby areas at all. After making two turns through the city and Frances not coming good (where are you when I need you?) we opt to come back in the afternoon when hopefully there will be some parking. We had read in the guide books about Primošten to the north a little (about 1 hour) so figure we will go take a look there first.

Heading out we go again through the area of Salona on the motorway before turning to hug the coast. We travel north following the coarse looking dolomite and limestone hills that erode in long narrow strips. There are Churches high on those hills with no apparent way of getting up to them other than to scramble like a goat over loose stones and steep mountain sides. Out to our left though, it is all blue water and further out, the islands are visible. We pass through tiny little hamlets that hug into the hills, on cling to the craggy rocks down to the shores of pebbly beaches.

There are millions of dollars worth of sailing and jet boats moored at a number of marinas along the coast. And in the pristine waters of the bays that surround these towns there are a myriad of what looks to be oyster farms, but could just as easily be any of the other molluscs as well.

Primošten is a medieval walled city that juts out on a spit into the bay with pristine water on three sides. It has narrow little roadways and alleys that climb up to a point where of course the Catholic Church of St George is located - locked of course, in case anyone wants to steal their Madonna icon on a silver tablet - pity the worshippers. But it commands wonderful views over the bay and is surrounded on three sides by seats - all looking at the Church of course! Walking up and down, we pass tiny little old houses and much newer ones side by side. The newer ones have weather sealed windows and air conditioning, while the older ones are lucky if they are weather proof, without holes in roofs or walls!

It is very windy here still today and the seas are choppy with whitecaps out in the bay and breakers splashing against the rock walls. Once we are back near the Marina we want warming up, so we sit in the sun with coffees and thick hot chocolate (like the Spanish serve it). Doesn't take long before we are thawed out sufficiently to continue our exploring.

Near where we parked the car just outside the city gate, there is a statue of Joseph and Mary on the donkey - maybe a local one? We have passed a number of donkeys on the way in to town - one that was just grazing and the other one was sitting maybe exhausted after recent activities! A little further around the park we see another very tiny church with a statue to Don Ivo Šarić - obviously someone important to the locals, but I can't find any information on him!

So it is time to head back towards Split. High on the rocky crags that look down over Solin (formerly Salona) and Split is Klis Fortress. We have seen this each of the last couple of days and as we near Solin again, I turn to head up to it. It is directly above the town of the same name and looks so inhospitable that it is amazing to think that anyone would ever want to attack it - let alone successfully take it. But they have! Read all about it at the link above...
Donna and Michael climbed a million steps - I waited in the warm car! Michael introduced Donna to a genuine garderobe - thankfully she didn't need to use it! There are restoration works being undertaken and like in many other parts of Europe, the WH&S practices are non-existent - one slip mate, and you are gone - way gone, way below! From high up above they could see the only lawn that we have seen in Croatia - on the school grounds below.

So back in to Split where Frances, following Donna's great advice (she always did get me in to trouble) found us a spot (in a tow away zone before 5 pm - its now 4:40 pm), where there are lots of other cars parked. So we park.

We are a couple of blocks away from the closest entry into the Palace area. School must have just finished - we pass a high school just as the last of the kids stream out the door and dash away. The light is starting to fade to that amazingly clear late afternoon light that is so good for photos of old buildings. We enter into the long little narrow alleyways that hug the city walls towering over us.

The footpaths are all marble through here - polished smooth by the feet of 1700 years crossing. New shops fill old spaces and overhead some of the formerly separate buildings have been connected with walled passageways. We wander down one street and then another, admiring the magnificent old architecture. The clock tower especially looks good in the late afternoon light.

Finally we turn a corner into one of the squares to find the Cathedral of Split. Now, this cathedral originally held the remains of Emperor Diocletian, and was called the 'Monumental Mausoleum of Diocletian'. During his reign as Emperor of Rome, Diocletian had it in for the those upstarts referred to as 'Christians'. Openly maltreating the Christians, through the 'Diocletianic Persecution' (or Great Persecution) which represented the last and most severest brutality in the Roman Empire. However, the Christians eventually had their 'day in court' against Diocletian....ah...after his death!

As with most of the Roman Emperors, Diocletian enjoyed a diet of megalomania, so during his reign he had his Palace constructed (3rdC AD) in Split so he could live out his retirement in luxury. On the 3 December 311AD, Diocletian gave up his ghost and made his way towards the marble gates of Elysium. Around the 12thC, it was decided to toss out Diocletian's sarcophagus (including the remains of the Emperor) and convert the mausoleum into the Cathedral of St. Duje. The portal to the Cathedral is flanked by two doors of the most beautiful examples of Medieaval wood carving. The doors were made around 1220 by the painter and woodcarver, Andrija Buvina. We found the mausoleum quite impressive and during the time of Diocletian, it must have been quite a jewel.

Attached to the cathedral is the monumental Cathedral Belfry Tower which was built onto the prostasis (entry to the temple) during the 13th and early 14thC's. Built in a mixed Gothic-Renaissance style it is presented as a very elegant edifice. Michael climbed the 189 to the tower's summit, and obtained some magnificent views of Split. Anyhow, at the risk of becoming tedious, we suggest you follow the links!

Oh, before we left the mausoleum, Donna and Michael made use of their entry tickets to view the Cathedral's treasury, but because it was up more steps, I waited in the Church.

I don't know who suffered more from megalomania after viewing the Treasury? However, without seeming crass or disrespectful, apart from the vestments, hardware, silverware, relics and the remains of saints (you had better believe it!) - it was the works of the Illuminators, Scriveners and Calligraphi which stood out. The choral manuscripts were just breathtaking and regretfully we were prevented from taking photographs - this included non-flash shots as well.... Should you, dear reader, have the opportunity to visually experience 'illuminated' works - we strongly recommend you do so!

Before making our way to the Temple of Jupiter (...that's what Michael prefers to call it), or as it is now known, The Cathedral Baptistery, we head for the Cathedral's crypt. You enter into the crypt through a dimly lit narrow passageway, and the further we entered the sanctorum the warmer it became! The crypt is where Diocletian was originally laid to rest, although now used as a private chapel. It is of a beehive construction with ten alcoves recessed around the base, and whatever motifs decorated the interior no longer exist - quite a sad, empty place really.

Originally there were three temples which were erected to the westside of the Mausoleum, of which only one remains - The Temple of Jupiter. This had been converted into the Baptistery, which now contains the baptismal font erected in the shape of a cross. Behind the font stands a tall stylised bronzed statue of John the Baptist. Fortunately, the exterior of the temple has been preserved which includes a headless black granite Egyptian sphynx. Above the portal and at its lintel remain carvings of the more important gods from the Roman pantheon: Hercules, Jupiter, Apollo, Mars, Venus and Neptune.

And so, Diocleation done, we headed down to the waterfront to find somewhere for dinner. Surprisingly there is less open than I expected - a few pizza restaurants and lots of bars, but not too many restaurants with a more extended menu. Finally about half way along the promenade we find the Adriatic Hotel. Our very efficient waitress hands out the menus and before long is back for the order. When asked what the specials were she quickly rattled off something about cuttlefish that is served with a spinach and potato mix which Michael decides to have and a meat platter that was served with chips for two that Donna and I will have. We also ordered a plate of vegetables and got char grilled zucchini and eggplant with capsicum and onion strips - ah goody, indigestion food! She had whisked away the menus so quickly that I didn't have time to copy the items.

When we return to the car, we find it GONE. Bugger, I had had a sunk feeling while we were walking back. Michael went to a fabric shop opposite. Yes, the car has been T-O-W-E-D! Didn't I tell you Donna is a bad influence! At least it wasn't stolen. Mind you, there are still plenty of local cars parked there. When we ask the shopkeeper what to do, he says go down to the taxis and tell them you need to go to the 'Spider'! He seems to be rather enjoying all the drama. And the cabbies know where to go - straight into the dense housing estates and a parked allotment below them. The Policija operate this towing service. When Michael walks in - hey, it IS a patriachal society - and ask if anyone speaks English, it takes two seconds for them to bring up our car on their computer screen.

"This is your car?" he asked. "Yes" answers Michael. "You were parked in a tow away zone and your car must be 1 metre away from the wall, and this area is for deliveries or emergency vehicles." We wanted the car, so didn't argue - despite me knowing the car was indeed at least 1 metre from the wall because I had opened the door to its full extent, and there was so many more local cars there. But they are doing there job and being an alien we are an easy target. They were certainly pleasant enough. We ask how much is the fine and he replies "340 Kuna for the towing and 300 for the police fine", but the young policewoman standing behind him announces that she will "forgive us the Policija fine" so all up it costs the equivalent of $100 Australian when you factor in the cab fare as well. I kinda think we got off lightly and everyone agrees. At this point we just want to get gone. We toot and wave as we leave them, didn't think to get a photo at that stage - might go back in the morning! NOT.