Cruising on the Adriatic

We took leave of Apartments Johnny this morning after another lovely breakfast. Still inside as the weather is definitely on the cooler side now. In fact, as soon as a wind gets up it can get bleeding cold!

Going down to the office to check out, 'Johnny' calls out to Vinko (who turns out to be his dad!) so we can say goodbye. We have been carrying an Australian flag with us since we left Australia, but it is a little too big to put on the back tray of the car, so it has just been sitting in our present cache. Anyway, Vinko is so taken with Australia (his brother lives in the Fairfield / Cabramatta area) and has shown a genuine interest in us, so we decide to make him an 'honorary Aussie'. I drape the flag around his shoulders and he is quite choked up! We have a few other little trinkets to leave with them.

Turns out that Vinko had phoned his brother the night before and made plans to visit in 2010 and this time Johnny will be going with him. But mum Ztavka doesn't like flying so she won't be coming. Anyway, we issue our card and an invitation to come and visit - Donna also tells them that they will take them for a drink and a meal. Think that he genuinely might get in touch! He proudly introduced us to his own ‘brew’ and offered Donna a sample – her enthusiastic reply was rewarded with a coke bottle full for later!!!

So from here we drive back into Split first to buy tickets and get aboard a boat to go to the island of Vis. We have had a look at the various options available. At this time of the year we have not been able to find a cruise around the islands, only ferries over to them individually. And given that their main traffic is workers, they come in from the islands early in the day, go back over in the mid-morning and then back to Split in time to collect the workers again around 5 or 6 pm for transport home. This is the exact opposite of what we as tourists need – we want to go over in the morning and back late in the afternoon! So we now know that we are going to have to stay on an island overnight if we want sufficient time to have a look around.

Vis is a ferry trip of 2 hours from Split almost in a straight line out into the Adriatic. And the appeal of this small island – well, it is the jump off point to the smaller island of Biševo and its well known Blue Grotto! We had missed seeing the one on the Isle of Capri due to the huge and wild seas, so we were hoping to see this one instead. So, ticket in hand (return 862 Kn or about €125 for the car and the three of us) we and the ticket collector exchange grunts and points and we get the message where to go!

There are a few vehicles waiting, but nowhere near as many as what we encountered going to the Scottish isles or to Ireland. We join the end of the queue and its not long before we are loading. The trip is as smooth as – hardly any movement in the crossing although at times there are small waves just off the boat. We pass the width of the islands of Šolta, Brac and Hvar, riding the channels that are deep fingers of the Adriatic Sea. The occasional rocky outcrop that sits within the channels have small lighthouses to keep the passenger and pleasure craft safe. We also see Korčula in the distance.

Almost exactly two hours after we left Split we are docking at the wharf of Vis harbour. This is what you would imagine any Mediterranean coastal village to look like. Terracotta tiled roofs sitting atop white or at least, pale, stone buildings that hug the shore line. There is a noticeable promenade from which people fish, or stroll, or sit taking the afternoon sun. We know that the boats to the island of Biševo and the Blue Cave leave from the second town on the island – Komiža which is on the other side of Vis, we turn and head for there as soon as we can drive off the ferry. There are two routes – one of 10 kms that goes almost in a direct line up and along a ridge, while the other one is 18 kms and follows a more winding route up into the centre of the island before coming down off the peak into the town. As we have yet to find accommodation we choose the shorter route.

10% slope up towards the apex of the Hum, the highest point on the island at 587 m. And that gained, a 10% slope straight back down the other side. The roads are quite winding and I almost miss the turn to the town ‘centre’ and ‘hotel’. A quick turn around the area directed as the centre does not look promising for accommodation so we decided to turn back to the hotel. Turns out that Hotel Biševo is the only hotel in the town and the only accommodation that is open all through the year.

Anna, the receptionist sounds – well, she sounds just like us! When we comment on her good English, she tells us she spent most of her childhood in Adelaide! Gosh, the small world just gets smaller! She doubts that we will get to the cave tomorrow as the weather forecast is not good (windy). We’ll see in the morning.

After checking in at the hotel we figure that we may as well go for a bit of a drive and explore some more of the island. Now, there are two sets of roads as I explained earlier. So we opt to take the road over the top, via the little villages in the island's interior: Podselje, Marinje zemlje, Podšpilje, and Podstražje. We pass lots of olive groves and vineyards – these are the two main agricultural pursuits on the island. The ground is so rocky and the farmers rake the ground over and pile the rocks into huge mounds. Some are used to construct fences around the lots, while others are still in the heaps. There are old houses, some in current use, some in dilapidated states. The local farmers use an odd little machine that consists of a 2 stroke engine on two wheels. This is then connected to all sorts of things, including a two wheeled tray wagon – therefore you have a stable four wheeled machine! You see them attached to hoes, cutters etc as well.

We are driving slowly because that is all the width and condition of the roads will let you go. We come across what is becoming a familiar sight in Croatia - donkeys! These two are tethered and by the look of the lighter coloured one (and by the berating we get as we pull up) they are kept lean! About the centre of the drive, we come across a sign to Titova Špilja and the universal symbol for caves. So, what to do? Go up of course! At the top of the road we are greeted with steps disappearing into the gorse bush. So, Michael and Donna set off to see how many steps there are. About ten minutes later I hear this “too many steps” coming from somewhere up above me, so I stay put.

Too bad really – they had come across two caves that had been used by the People's Liberation Army and General Tito during their fight for the liberation of the then areas of Yugoslavia that were under the control of Italy. In fact, it was here in these caves that Tito lived with his dog and conducted the business of the Resistance until he was granted a visa that then allowed him to travel to meet with Churchill and Stalin to plead their cause. This was, of course, before he took power and developed into more than his people had expected. WOW, we sure as hell had not expected to find anything as important as this on this little island on the edge of the Adriatic! Suitably impressed, we drive on.

Back at the hotel, Anna tells us that they do have evening meals but we opt to seek a local restaurant. We pass more cats - there are literally thousands on the island. Not sure whether the first couple stowed away on some boat out of Split or what, but they and their offspring sure are having fun multiplying!

The Konoba BAKO Restaurant is on the beachfront near the hotel – literally, if you were drunk and wandered across the patio, you would end up IN the drink of the seawater that laps the walls below. The kitchen is split with the grill open to the diners and where everything from bread slices to whole fish cooked in full view of the restaurant – and the tantaslising smells waft to aid with the sales of yet more food to thse who come in hungry. There was a small pond in the back where they say you can choose your own fish or shellfish for cooking. Thankfully they have more fish inside because the ones in there at the moment would have left us all hungry!
After we had ordered, we went outside to see the most stunning sunset out over the Bay and the neighbouring Biševo Island. Back inside, we settle into dinner ...
Appetiser:
Tuna and anchovy paste served with bread slices toasted over the coals
Entrées:
Sirevi / paški / tivajski (local cheese) Donna and Maria
Komiška pogača (focaccia Komiška style with salted sardines) Michael
Mains:
Zubatac fratar (Rockfish grilled over coals) Michael
Pohana grdobina (Angler fish breaded) Donna
Jastog buzara (Lobster in white wine with garlic and herbs) Maria
Also riža, salate, masline (rice, salads and olives)
Desserts:
Palačinke čokolade (crepes with chocolate) Donna
Sladoled (Lemon gelato and chocolate ice cream) Michael
Palačinke s orasima (crepes with walnuts) Maria

A short walk and we are back to the hotel. It seems that there are only a couple of other rooms occupied. We play Sudoku and read for a little while before crawling in to bed. Its unbelievably cold tonight and in the end Michael goes down to the car to get our blanket for me as well because there are no extra blankets in the room!

The cost of parking a car in Split is Kn 430!

This morning the storm has blown through. Last night we heard glass breaking - turns out it was one of the tables from the terrace where we enjoyed our breakfast yesterday morning - thankfully, when it landed at the end of the car park, it had missed all the cars!
Apartments Johnny is the best of both worlds - extra space in the apartment rooms but with the provision of breakfast so you can relax! Breakfast is served in the eating room in the back yard as it is still too blowy to eat outside. We have to wait 5 minutes as there is not enough room for everyone at one time. Ztravka again cooks us lovely omelettes and we share our meal with a Finnish family also staying here. In fact, for the off season, these apartments are really quite busy.

We have been seeing these revolutionary style signs proclaiming Torcida 1950 along the roadsides over the last few days. Well we finally checked it out on the web and after a number of misses due to me mis-spelling the name, we finally learn that it is a football (soccer) fan club that is known for their vocal and violent and intimidating behaviour of opposition teams and their fans. Guess its all political to them!

We head into Split intending to have a look at Diocletians Palace. Parking is the worst we have ever come across - there is absolutely nothing in the immediate or even nearby areas at all. After making two turns through the city and Frances not coming good (where are you when I need you?) we opt to come back in the afternoon when hopefully there will be some parking. We had read in the guide books about Primošten to the north a little (about 1 hour) so figure we will go take a look there first.

Heading out we go again through the area of Salona on the motorway before turning to hug the coast. We travel north following the coarse looking dolomite and limestone hills that erode in long narrow strips. There are Churches high on those hills with no apparent way of getting up to them other than to scramble like a goat over loose stones and steep mountain sides. Out to our left though, it is all blue water and further out, the islands are visible. We pass through tiny little hamlets that hug into the hills, on cling to the craggy rocks down to the shores of pebbly beaches.

There are millions of dollars worth of sailing and jet boats moored at a number of marinas along the coast. And in the pristine waters of the bays that surround these towns there are a myriad of what looks to be oyster farms, but could just as easily be any of the other molluscs as well.

Primošten is a medieval walled city that juts out on a spit into the bay with pristine water on three sides. It has narrow little roadways and alleys that climb up to a point where of course the Catholic Church of St George is located - locked of course, in case anyone wants to steal their Madonna icon on a silver tablet - pity the worshippers. But it commands wonderful views over the bay and is surrounded on three sides by seats - all looking at the Church of course! Walking up and down, we pass tiny little old houses and much newer ones side by side. The newer ones have weather sealed windows and air conditioning, while the older ones are lucky if they are weather proof, without holes in roofs or walls!

It is very windy here still today and the seas are choppy with whitecaps out in the bay and breakers splashing against the rock walls. Once we are back near the Marina we want warming up, so we sit in the sun with coffees and thick hot chocolate (like the Spanish serve it). Doesn't take long before we are thawed out sufficiently to continue our exploring.

Near where we parked the car just outside the city gate, there is a statue of Joseph and Mary on the donkey - maybe a local one? We have passed a number of donkeys on the way in to town - one that was just grazing and the other one was sitting maybe exhausted after recent activities! A little further around the park we see another very tiny church with a statue to Don Ivo Šarić - obviously someone important to the locals, but I can't find any information on him!

So it is time to head back towards Split. High on the rocky crags that look down over Solin (formerly Salona) and Split is Klis Fortress. We have seen this each of the last couple of days and as we near Solin again, I turn to head up to it. It is directly above the town of the same name and looks so inhospitable that it is amazing to think that anyone would ever want to attack it - let alone successfully take it. But they have! Read all about it at the link above...
Donna and Michael climbed a million steps - I waited in the warm car! Michael introduced Donna to a genuine garderobe - thankfully she didn't need to use it! There are restoration works being undertaken and like in many other parts of Europe, the WH&S practices are non-existent - one slip mate, and you are gone - way gone, way below! From high up above they could see the only lawn that we have seen in Croatia - on the school grounds below.

So back in to Split where Frances, following Donna's great advice (she always did get me in to trouble) found us a spot (in a tow away zone before 5 pm - its now 4:40 pm), where there are lots of other cars parked. So we park.

We are a couple of blocks away from the closest entry into the Palace area. School must have just finished - we pass a high school just as the last of the kids stream out the door and dash away. The light is starting to fade to that amazingly clear late afternoon light that is so good for photos of old buildings. We enter into the long little narrow alleyways that hug the city walls towering over us.

The footpaths are all marble through here - polished smooth by the feet of 1700 years crossing. New shops fill old spaces and overhead some of the formerly separate buildings have been connected with walled passageways. We wander down one street and then another, admiring the magnificent old architecture. The clock tower especially looks good in the late afternoon light.

Finally we turn a corner into one of the squares to find the Cathedral of Split. Now, this cathedral originally held the remains of Emperor Diocletian, and was called the 'Monumental Mausoleum of Diocletian'. During his reign as Emperor of Rome, Diocletian had it in for the those upstarts referred to as 'Christians'. Openly maltreating the Christians, through the 'Diocletianic Persecution' (or Great Persecution) which represented the last and most severest brutality in the Roman Empire. However, the Christians eventually had their 'day in court' against Diocletian....ah...after his death!

As with most of the Roman Emperors, Diocletian enjoyed a diet of megalomania, so during his reign he had his Palace constructed (3rdC AD) in Split so he could live out his retirement in luxury. On the 3 December 311AD, Diocletian gave up his ghost and made his way towards the marble gates of Elysium. Around the 12thC, it was decided to toss out Diocletian's sarcophagus (including the remains of the Emperor) and convert the mausoleum into the Cathedral of St. Duje. The portal to the Cathedral is flanked by two doors of the most beautiful examples of Medieaval wood carving. The doors were made around 1220 by the painter and woodcarver, Andrija Buvina. We found the mausoleum quite impressive and during the time of Diocletian, it must have been quite a jewel.

Attached to the cathedral is the monumental Cathedral Belfry Tower which was built onto the prostasis (entry to the temple) during the 13th and early 14thC's. Built in a mixed Gothic-Renaissance style it is presented as a very elegant edifice. Michael climbed the 189 to the tower's summit, and obtained some magnificent views of Split. Anyhow, at the risk of becoming tedious, we suggest you follow the links!

Oh, before we left the mausoleum, Donna and Michael made use of their entry tickets to view the Cathedral's treasury, but because it was up more steps, I waited in the Church.

I don't know who suffered more from megalomania after viewing the Treasury? However, without seeming crass or disrespectful, apart from the vestments, hardware, silverware, relics and the remains of saints (you had better believe it!) - it was the works of the Illuminators, Scriveners and Calligraphi which stood out. The choral manuscripts were just breathtaking and regretfully we were prevented from taking photographs - this included non-flash shots as well.... Should you, dear reader, have the opportunity to visually experience 'illuminated' works - we strongly recommend you do so!

Before making our way to the Temple of Jupiter (...that's what Michael prefers to call it), or as it is now known, The Cathedral Baptistery, we head for the Cathedral's crypt. You enter into the crypt through a dimly lit narrow passageway, and the further we entered the sanctorum the warmer it became! The crypt is where Diocletian was originally laid to rest, although now used as a private chapel. It is of a beehive construction with ten alcoves recessed around the base, and whatever motifs decorated the interior no longer exist - quite a sad, empty place really.

Originally there were three temples which were erected to the westside of the Mausoleum, of which only one remains - The Temple of Jupiter. This had been converted into the Baptistery, which now contains the baptismal font erected in the shape of a cross. Behind the font stands a tall stylised bronzed statue of John the Baptist. Fortunately, the exterior of the temple has been preserved which includes a headless black granite Egyptian sphynx. Above the portal and at its lintel remain carvings of the more important gods from the Roman pantheon: Hercules, Jupiter, Apollo, Mars, Venus and Neptune.

And so, Diocleation done, we headed down to the waterfront to find somewhere for dinner. Surprisingly there is less open than I expected - a few pizza restaurants and lots of bars, but not too many restaurants with a more extended menu. Finally about half way along the promenade we find the Adriatic Hotel. Our very efficient waitress hands out the menus and before long is back for the order. When asked what the specials were she quickly rattled off something about cuttlefish that is served with a spinach and potato mix which Michael decides to have and a meat platter that was served with chips for two that Donna and I will have. We also ordered a plate of vegetables and got char grilled zucchini and eggplant with capsicum and onion strips - ah goody, indigestion food! She had whisked away the menus so quickly that I didn't have time to copy the items.

When we return to the car, we find it GONE. Bugger, I had had a sunk feeling while we were walking back. Michael went to a fabric shop opposite. Yes, the car has been T-O-W-E-D! Didn't I tell you Donna is a bad influence! At least it wasn't stolen. Mind you, there are still plenty of local cars parked there. When we ask the shopkeeper what to do, he says go down to the taxis and tell them you need to go to the 'Spider'! He seems to be rather enjoying all the drama. And the cabbies know where to go - straight into the dense housing estates and a parked allotment below them. The Policija operate this towing service. When Michael walks in - hey, it IS a patriachal society - and ask if anyone speaks English, it takes two seconds for them to bring up our car on their computer screen.

"This is your car?" he asked. "Yes" answers Michael. "You were parked in a tow away zone and your car must be 1 metre away from the wall, and this area is for deliveries or emergency vehicles." We wanted the car, so didn't argue - despite me knowing the car was indeed at least 1 metre from the wall because I had opened the door to its full extent, and there was so many more local cars there. But they are doing there job and being an alien we are an easy target. They were certainly pleasant enough. We ask how much is the fine and he replies "340 Kuna for the towing and 300 for the police fine", but the young policewoman standing behind him announces that she will "forgive us the Policija fine" so all up it costs the equivalent of $100 Australian when you factor in the cab fare as well. I kinda think we got off lightly and everyone agrees. At this point we just want to get gone. We toot and wave as we leave them, didn't think to get a photo at that stage - might go back in the morning! NOT.

Split through Salona

We pulled in here at 11 pm last night and roused the manager Vinko. He asked where we were from and as soon as Donna said Sydney, he became ultra friendly. He gladly helped us with the luggage up 3 flights of stairs, telling us on the way that he had been to Cabramatta, Fairfield and Kings Cross. “Formalities in the morning” he said. “Breakfast?” we asked. “7 am to 10 am” was his reply. “OK”, I said “we will be down at 9:45 am!”

After waking to a bright sunny day turning cloudy, we managed to get down there about 9:30. Breakfast was the standard continental fare – juice, some cereals, breads, meats and cheeses, coffee, tea or chocolate. And then Vinko’s wife Ztravka (not sure about the spelling) asked if we wanted omelette or eggs. Omelette please all three of us asked. And by jove, the omelette was fantastic. All egg with nothing else to cloud the flavour or freshness.

After the episode with the tyres slipping the other day we had made the decision to put new tyres on the car – even though we won’t be driving it much longer, we are still driving it for a considerable distance (and even if it we only for 10 kms, I want to feel safe!) So after breakfast when we had sorted out staying for another few nights, I asked Vinko if he could recommend anywhere to buy new tyres for the car.

At first he wasn’t sure what we meant, but after a few charades passages, he cottoned on. “Ah, come, I go with you” he says. So Michael and Vinko set forth. Donna and I in the meantime got things ready to move into a different room – smaller and without a balcony, but still perfectly OK for a couple of days. The guide books unfortunately are in the car, so we can’t plan too much for today. And we don’t know what time they will be back with the car. Michael eventually returns about 12 noon. The tyre place managed to squeeze our job in for a small donation, but who cares, we didn’t want to wait (and it was small, really!)

So with just the afternoon left we headed off to have a look at Solin – or rather to the remains of the Roman town of Salona. En-route, we drive out towards the end of the peninsula where we are staying, passing the amazingly blue seas lapping at little breakwaters that have been erected to provide mooring spots for small craft. A bit further on we come to a marina area where vessels from the local fishing fleet shared moorings with the toys of rich and perhaps famous people – you know the sort of boats – we see them moored at the Gold Coast all the time!

And on the hills overlooking all this are houses new and old, all blending together in a rather harmonious style of construction and all painted in muted colours – not quite gelati, not that bright, but rather softer olives and light reds, ochres and yellows. All around the houses they garden or farm every bit of available land. There are apples, pomegranates, peaches, olives, grapes, lemons, cabbages, leeks, spinach, lettuce, carrots. And all shaded from time to time by the most productive fig trees that we have ever seen. Guess that explains why we don’t see too many fruit and vegies shops!

Eventually we head back through Split to Solin. Thankfully it is well signposted. There is not a lot of infrastructure when we pull in – just a parking area shared with where the local buses park. There is a bar / café and a site map, but no real sign of where to go. We walk a little past the sign to get great views across this overgrown area looking across to the high density accommodation in the Split city centre. Quite amazing! It's then that we realize there is a path leading to the remains of the old city of Salona.

The first thing we see when we walk in to the gate is that there is an entry fee of Kn20 per person, but no obvious sign of where to pay. Ahh, there is an old Christian burial ground just inside the gate, complete with the remains of a basilica. There are sarcophagi lying all around and nearly all have been violated – a huge hole punched in the gabled lids on all of them. Once we get further in to the site, we see a museum up ahead and realise that this is where we must go to pay our entry. And about now, we see a woman walking across the area. Michael asked her whether the sarcophagi and lids on the ground in front of us were new as they were as white as. “No” she replied, “they were discovered about two years ago and have recently been cleaned.” Turns out that she is a restorer working at the site. We didn’t get her name, part way through our very interesting conversation with her, her phone rang and she walked away. Pity, it was very enlightening – far more than what we get from the guide book we later buy.

Yes, the museum is where we pay our entry fee – and the curator is watching like a hawk to make sure that we don’t get away without paying! Mind you, later on walking through the site, there are lots of locals wandering through walking dogs, jogging etc and there is no sign of them paying! Hah, but we are very obviously tourists!! Taking lots of photos etc. After paying our fee we have a quick look through the museum that gives tribute to the priest Father Bulić who is credited with much of the early archaeology of the site. In fact, the museum is housed in his former home which has been constructed from material lying around the site. So there are parts of columns and monuments interspersed between other plainer blocks. Makes for a very interesting building! There is an arbor outside - like he was trying to recreate his own piece of Roman culture. And one room has been retained much as he had it – complete with as then modern ceiling fresco picking up elements from what he has seen in some of the remains.

So we venture forth into what we have now learned is a huge site. We walk down an avenue of old Cypress Pine trees – surely they are not 1700+ years old we think. Although in ruins, what remains certainly allows the ‘minds-eye’ to visualise how imposing Salona must have appeared. The city walls, which vary in breadth from 1.5 - 2.5m, indicate the subsequent additions and alterations over the centuries. After the successful siege by the Byzantine forces in the first half of the 6thC AD, the walls were repaired and strengthened with triangular extensions being added to the bases of the ninety square towers. Most of the original Roman Temples had been replaced with early Christian churches and associated buildings. This in no way dilutes the importance of Salona as a prominent Roman provincial settlement.

The first part of the old city we come to is the ecclesiastical centre complete with the Basilica Urbana and the Bishopric Baptistery. There are thermae (baths), cemeteries, smaller churches all encompassed within an impressive 4.08 km long town wall and accessed through at least one surviving town gate, Porta Caesarea.

Continuing along the walls, (which provides a clearer view of Salona’s structure, we come across Porta Caesarea. This was the main entry gate into the city; and although the statues of Caesar have long disappeared it must have been a marble spectacle to any newcomer. Many of the original flagstones are still in place, displaying the signature worn wheel ruts into the surface. An interesting engineering feat is the way the Romans had incorporated the aqueduct into the wall and gateway structure. Donna and Michael climb down through much of it, while I first sit and listen to the wind whispering through the thick, aged fir trees and then continue a paced walk along the wall perimeter towards the Amphitheatre.

The Romans must have built amphitheatres to a standard size as this one as with quite a few of the others we have seen had a capacity of 20,000 people. Gladiator fights were stopped in the 5th century AD while animal fights continued well passed this time. The foundations remain giving you the total overview of the size but there is not much else standing – some half ways and only seven of the lower arches still standing. There is one group of three and another one that shows Roman repairs to the uppermost of the arch. Not a real lot.

At this point Michael followed the road around to get the car – the rain clouds are getting heavier and closer. There are other remains of the then adjacent town of Otok a little way around, but as we drive passed on the motorway we can’t see anything remaining. We do see the Theatre ruins from the car, but it would have meant a trek of 700 m down to it on a narrow track and we have had enough of uneven services for the day.

So we leave Salona to rest in peace. There is a huge storm swirling around across the waters up to the mountains and back again. We find a supermarket to get a few staples such as soda water and lemon for the Vodka and orange juice for the Amaretto and when we leave a little while later there is some maelstrom in full swing. Trees are almost bent double in the wind, and the clouds are racing through the skies, dropping lower wisps. People are rushing – and I mean really rushing to get home. It is now just after 5 pm and we are now well and truly ready for a meal, so off we head into Split to find ourselves a seafood restaurant. And then the rain hits. OMG like the heaves opened and the winds howled and the wipers are on the fastest speed and I can still hardly see a thing!

In the end, we will settle for any restaurant. We find ourselves down at the car ferry dock with all the locals rushing to get on the boats – whaat? They are still sailing???? Yep! Nothing down here that (a) is open or (b) we can get to without getting drowned. So we push for the unit hoping to stop at one of the restaurants we saw near on our drive this morning. But once we are off the ridge where Split sits, there is more shelter and the storm is not so bad. We pass a sign for a seafood restaurant so turn off to find it. The rain is still coming down and the wind is picking up again, but we do find somewhere to stop – the Restaurant Lovački Roy.

There is only one other couple there, but the menu is extensive – guess it is just a slow night in the storm. We ask the guidance of the waiter who speaks quite good English as to what a few of the items are and eventually choose:
Appetiser:
Pohani Sir (breadcrumbed cheese) for all of us.
Entrees:
Riblja juha s rižom (Fish soup with rice) Michael and Donna
Juha od rajčica (Tomato soup) Maria
Mains:
Rižot od sipe – crni (Cuttlefish risotto – black) Michael
Rižot s morskim voćem (Seafood risotto) Donna
Bejela riha l kasa (White fish first class) Maria
None of us can fit in a dessert, so we finish with coffee and hot chocolate. Miro, our waiter and we think maybe the owner was quite attentive and engaging. Thank goodness for his good English, great service skills (pouring the soup at the table – “help please with your spoon the rice!”, and the removing of the fish flesh from its skeleton.

So we brave the storm that has continued to pelt the coast here to get back to the units, not really getting wet until this late. Back inside, the vents for the air conditioner and the bathroom drains are making gurgling as though they rinsing their foul mouths out, coming to life in the quiet dark of the night while the maelstrom rages all around the outside as we hear tin and hoardings being ripped apart. Not too late a night thankfully. And cooler, much cooler, so we can snuggle under the doonas.