From prizes to princes

An earlier start today to make sure that we get the most of our visit to Gamla Stan.
Gamla stan, the Old Town, until 1980 was officially known as Staden mellan broarna (The Town between the Bridges), is the old town of Stockholm, Sweden. Gamla stan consists primarily of the island Stadsholmen.


It is a short ferry ride across the inner harbour  in the sunshine this morning, passing four large cruise ships enroute.  There is a slight breeze and the possibility of a shower, so Donna has packed the umbrellas - just in case.Gamla Stan is one of the larger islands in the archipelago that is Stockholm.  It has an area of about 0.26 square kms.  And while we didn't cover all of it,we gave it a pretty damn good shot.  Walked just under 5 kms today so you can imagine how my feet are tonight!  Still I am really pleased with how I lasted and thankful that Donna lent me her arm numerous times on the blasted cobblestones.  There were every possible type of them somewhere on the island - including those little rounded ones that they set on their edges - they are the most painful!
On our way to find the Cathedral (which turned out not to be the church we thought it was) we came across the intricate bronze statue to St George and the Dragon. This dragon was slain in return for the City converting to christianity!  Turns out, this is not the only statue to St George and the dragon, and most certainly one one of hundreds of statues on this elaborate little island.The first major building we entered today is the Nobel Prize Museum. Set in an imposing building facing one of the main squares where the City fountain is set, the interior is dark, although not at all cool!  This centre focuses on the story of how the Prize came about - as the legacy left in the will of Alfred Nobel who had made his fortune in the discovery and development of dynamite. 
Without any direct descendants (although he had large extended family) he decided to distribute his fortune to the recognition of those who excelled in a number of scientific and other fields:

• Physics
• Chemistry
• Physiology or Medicine
• Literature
• Peace

In 1968, Sveriges Riksbank (Sweden’s central bank) established The Sveriges Riksbank Prize in Economic Sciences in Memory of Alfred Nobel. Th Royal Apartments (historic) are more accessible with lift access allowing easy access to the main areas (although there were still steps up from each foyer).  There are two things that strike us Once we had had our fill of the opulence, we retraced our steps to the courtyard just as the Changing of the Guard was taking place. Talk about being in the right place at the right time. We have unobstructed views, unlike the crowds who have just entered the Parade Square and are being marshalled by soldiers! The Guard have some of the best polished helmets we have ever seen!Out through the Parade Square and behind the Palace, we find the Storkyrkan - Stockholm Cathedral, St. Jacob's Church and St. Clara Church.  This medieval church, built from 1279, this cathedral, has been a Lutheran place of worship since 1527.  
By now it is now close to 5 pm and time for us to turn towards the ferry back to Skeppsholmen.  My feet HATE the cobblestones and the uneven roads and pavements, the hills up and down, have taken their toll.  I am really feeling our jaunt today, but thrilled that we were able to traverse most of Gamla Stan.
We return to the Hotel Skeppsholmen somewhat subdued, but happy with the day.
Night all - time to rest the tootsies!

There are not too many people getting off the ferry, although there were plenty on board - so I guess the museums we did over the last couple of days are still drawing the late summer / early autumn crowds.

Gamla Stan has a really interesting skyline with cupolas, towers, spires and the stair-stepped roof-lines reminiscent of those in Brugges and the slightly rounded ones found across many of the other European cities.

Between 1901 and 2018, the prizes have been awarded a total of 590 times.  And there is information on each and every one.  One of the more interesting ways they are presented is on a ceiling mounted tracked system that features each of the laureates on a separate hanging banner.  Other ways they are presented are in decade visual blocks where one can read in detail of the recipient.  And some are featured in special displays.  There is a major display on the works and times of Martin Luther King.  We spent about 2 hours working through the discoveries and works of some of the amazing people who have and are currently influencing our knowledge of our world.

Following our enlightening, we ventured back into the afternoon sun - it is hard to believe that summer is done and locally, everyone is commenting on how later summer is lasting.  After wandering through backstreets, peering down alleyways and into doorways and courtyards, we end up on one of the straight lines that cross the island - Osterlangg, looking for a light lunch.  
The small restaurant Cultur was easy to enter (steps here are everywhere) and in fact, compared to here on Skeppsholmen, very affordable.

Donna had Cod with crab sauce and baby potatoes and I had Chicken with Tarragon, mashed potatoes and white beans.  Washed down with a glass of Italian Pinot it was delicious and very satisfying, providing the energy needed this afternoon.

So we next headed to the other end of Gamla Stan and The Royal Palaces. 

With more than 600 rooms, much of it open to the public, we could have spent a full day in this one complex. However, time is short and there is still so much to see.  Donna climbed the many steps to take some photos in the large Chapel - basically one large hall that hosts major ceremonies.

Straight away we are struck by - the amazing chandeliers in all the rooms, and the plethora of clocks -some rooms with more than one - and all keeping perfect time.  Turns out the Palace has its own clock-maker to ensure that these historic pieces all run true!
There are gifts from popes and princes, priceless tapestries and furniture and elaborate furnishings in the king's rooms.  The Council Chamber still hosts meetings of the Swedish Cabinet three to four times a year with the King sitting as Chairman.
And Karl XI's gallery, modelled on the castle Versailles mirror gallery has a series of chandeliers running its length!

It houses the other statue of St George slaying the Dragon that we have seen today.  This one, carved in timber in 1489 is amazing in its detail.

Tomorrow we check out and will take the train to Gothenburg on the other side of Sweden.  At least this way we will get to see more of the countryside.

ABBA - Thank You For The Music

Yesterday allowed us to fully re-charge. A day filled with rest and recovery (although Donna who is not used to sitting still for so long felt it).  We spent a few hours having a look at what there is to see and do in Stockholm and finding accommodation.
Everything in Scandinavia is far more expensive than any other place we have travelled, so accommodation doesn't come cheap.  Since we are paying a premium, it might as well be somewhere nice, and central to everything. 


So this morning we headed back from the Raddison to the Stockholm Airport on the free connection bus because this is the easiest way to connect with the public transport system into the centre of Stockholm.  The express train in to Stockholm City is not included in the public transport and at AUD$50 per person, we don't hink it is cheap.  But with the journey cut to 20 minutes as the speed gets up to 190 kph - couldn't quite catch it as the monitor kept changing.highlighted!


At the main station, we go down to the metro station and get a 72 hour all-public-transport pass for the same price as our trip this morning AUD$50 each.  Now, we are set. We know that there is no transport right to the door of our hotel today, so succumb and take a taxi so we can divest ourselves of our luggage.  The taxi driver complains of the amount of roadworks, but we assure him that there is no more than most other cities.  He moans about the Green Party, who hold the balance of power and are influencing the investment in environmentally friendly transport modes that will restrict vehicles in part of the City.  Sorry, just can't agree with him. It was nice to get a couple of photos of the inner city as we were driving to the hotel.  I hope to get clearer shots over the next couple of days.

We finally reach the hotel where we will spend the next couple of days - the stunning Hotel Skeppsholem set just up from the waterfront on the island of Skeppsholem.  The Hotel has a long and colourful history. Originally built in 1699-1702 with the purpose of housing the Royal Marines of Karl XII. Since Sweden’s financial situation of the time was poor, most of the building material came from ruined castles on the countryside. The buildings, known to locals as “The Long Row”, was never used for the soldiers as intended, as most of them never made it home from the wars. They were therefore left uninhabited until 1710, when the city started using them as a hospice for poor people infected with the plague. 

Years later after renovation, the buildings became offices and storehouses for the Navy, and also housing for military employees. The Martial Court was accommodated here too. In the 1900’s most of the space was turned into apartments for Navy staff, mostly officers and their families, and in the 2000’s it was once again adapted to be used as administrative offices. It is fascinating and lovely. We arrive in the sunshine with lots of people sitting in the garden.

Our room is not yet ready, but that is okay as the hotel will gladly hold our luggage.  So off we head down the path and then out along the quayside walkway to the ferry terminal.  We are off to see the ABBA museum that I had booked tickets for while we travelled in to the City on the train this morning.

So, one cannot come to Stockholm and NOT go to the ABBA museum.  Not sure where to start.

For those who know me, I am an ABBA tragic from way back.  I'll never forget the day when a teenage Gen was horrified when she found me singing to Fernando in one of the band's later incarnations.  She didn't know at that time that the band was universal and timeless!

Because we have pre-purchased our tickets, we can skip the line at the door and waltz straight on in.
We end up spending more than 4 hours here.  It is filled with the stories and memorabilia of the individuals and their personal lives before,during and after the ABBA phenomena, the band and their hits and tours, the stage play and the two movies.  It included interactive sections where you could try mixing the songs, auditioning for a supposed opportunity - and no, I am NOT putting that up here, nor the photo shoot of me as the various band members - suffice to say those are the pics that horror movies are based upon!

There is nothing that is not covered.
The costumes, the props, the newsreels, the platinum records - everything.  From the foursome's childhoods to the current day.
It is a wonderful tribute that allows so many people to re-live their teen years.  And the story of the Australian link to their fame is well

So as the day is drawing to a close, and the weather starting to chill for the night, we head back across the bay to our island and our hotel.
Dinner is served until 10 pm, but with a full hotel, the best we can manage is 6:45 pm.  So we take it.  The restaurant here not only services the hotel, but locals also, and is very well known here.  Restaurant Långa Raden caters to discerning diners (and the bus tour groups lodging here).  The food is typically Swedish with a modern twist.  Donna and I decide that we can only do two courses and opt for a main and dessert.  The food is fabulous.

Mains - Donna
Hängmörad svensk ryggbiff med kryddsmör, tomatsallad och rödvinssky 
Dry aged Swedish sirloin steak, spice butter, tomato salad and red wine jus  
Maria
Köttbullar med potatispuré, pressgurka, lingon och gräddsås  
Meatballs with potato purée, pickled cucumber and lingon berries and cream sauce  

Desserts - Donna
Hallonyoghurtglass med kolabrownie och maränger 
Raspberry and yoghurt ice cream, caramell brownie and meringues
Maria
Vit chokladpastej med citrusmarinerade jordgubbar och smultronsorbet 
White chocolate cake with lemon marinated strawberries and wild strawberry sorbet

Those desserts were 'died and gone to heaven delicious'!
 
Back in the room as we are putting our gear away, Donna comes across the purchases that you can make on the room menu - the smalls you might have forgotten - socks, jocks, nickers and tights (small to extra large- one in each size) - now THAT is class!!
Donna then did a Michael and went out to take some night shots - we will share them tomorrow.

Tomorrow we are heading into the Old Town.

Water and Eis

Hamburg is a major port city in northern Germany, and connected to the North Sea by the Elbe River. It's crossed by hundreds of canals, and also contains large areas of parkland. For more information check out http://www.hamburg.com/sights/

Markus works for Customs here at the port and was proud as punch to show us a copy of the local newspaper last night that highlighted the recent haul of 3.8 tonnes of cocaine with a street value of €800 million found in a container packed with BBQ brickettes.

This morning we all slept in a little later, children included! We shared a breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon, rolls and meats and cheeses and pickled cucumber and honey - strange but oh so good.  I'll make some when I get home. Today Markus and Inga have suggested that we all go by train into Hamburg (because with the present roadworks around the city, the traffic and parking will be a real problem) and spend the day near and on the Elbe River and visiting a new park for the children to play.  I gave Finn a couple of euros to buy his eis (ice-cream) today so he is excited.

We leave here about 12 noon with Michael and Markus walking the children to the station while Inga and I drove down.  It took all of 3 minutes in the car and perhaps 5 minutes more to walk. We parked very close to the station in a free area. The all day group ticket that covered the train and ferries (and buses if we wanted to use them) that covered all 6 of us cost less than €20!  Bargain.
At the main station, we come across the statue of the water carrier - a former Hamburg resident that carried water for a living.  Young children used to tease him and because he could not chase or smack them he would famously say "you can lick my a**e"!
Photo opportunity for Michael of course.


The train takes 30 minutes into the main station in Hamburg and we then change to a U-Bahn (Metro) train for a further 3 stops which puts us very close to this new playground. It is a combined playground and water park that friends had told them about - and Finn in particular just loved it here. We drank coffee while he played to his hearts delight in the water and sand and genuinely enjoyed ourselves too. Later we went to an ice-cream shop that Markus sometimes visits from work. You choose your ice cream and a number of toppings and they are then all mixed together.  We had vanilla ice-cream with cherry sauce, cornetto chips and white chocolate flakes - SO GOOD.  Finn bought his kinder (child) sized vanilla with cornetto flakes. Lena being a baby was just happy to be in the sun, well fed and being ogled at by us all.
We were all happy.  We are now sitting harbour-side and looking across to the ports where Markus works. He explains about the traffic light system of coding ships depending on their origin and some of the ways that drugs, or cigarettes, are hidden. Very interesting.

From here we then walked around to the other side of the harbour to catch a ferry up the Elbe. One ferry takes us half-way and before we board the next ferry to take us to the mouth of the river, we stop to have 'fish burgers'. 

This is Markus favourite and he chooses the Bismark - which is basically rollmops and pickled onions and peppers, I have the walnut bread with smoked salmon and cream cheese, Inga has the Thunfish toast and Michael ordered the Merlan fish (whiting) that was served warm.

We ordered frites for Finn, but most were eaten by the adults!

The Salmon was great, Michael enjoyed his Merlan and Inga said the Thunfish was great. But Markus, well, he relished that burger though none of the rest of us could stomach the thought of it.  We had lemon and mint water - but were badly disappointed after the amazing ones we had in Romania. 

We tried to catchup with another couchsurfer - Anya today who is also living in Hamburg, but her plans and ours just didn't mesh. Oh well, next visit!

We spent the afternoon on and off ferries and walking through parts of old Hamburg around the docks. Fascinating and really gorgeous architecture. We are waiting for the ferry to begin the trip home and I commented to Inga how lovely the light is at this time of the day when the shadows lengthen and the harsh rays of light are gone. Thinking it was about 5, we are horrified to find that it is now 6:40 pm.  No wonder the children are tiring (and me!)

We head for the station - about 200m Markus assures us.  Huh. Maybe as the crow flies. We actually walked about 2.5 kms!  Inga reminded me that when they travelled in Australia, Markus favourite saying was that it was "just around the corner" or "not far to walk" and it didn't seem to matter how far it was.  Told him later that his sense of distance was totally crap!!!

Still, it has been a great day.  We had planned crepes for dinner, but the consensus on the way home that delivered pizza was to be the order of the night!  Easy, quick and we could order it en-route so that we could eat soon after we get here.  Great idea as we are all knackered.

We got some great pics - I'll put some more up on FB.
Tired as now at 12:17am and needing to go to bed as we have a 7 - 8 hour drive back to Steph and Felix tomorrow.

So Inga and Markus have had their first couchsurfers (literally).
All worked out very well indeed.  Guess we will have to leave a very positive comment!

Cruising on the Adriatic

We took leave of Apartments Johnny this morning after another lovely breakfast. Still inside as the weather is definitely on the cooler side now. In fact, as soon as a wind gets up it can get bleeding cold!

Going down to the office to check out, 'Johnny' calls out to Vinko (who turns out to be his dad!) so we can say goodbye. We have been carrying an Australian flag with us since we left Australia, but it is a little too big to put on the back tray of the car, so it has just been sitting in our present cache. Anyway, Vinko is so taken with Australia (his brother lives in the Fairfield / Cabramatta area) and has shown a genuine interest in us, so we decide to make him an 'honorary Aussie'. I drape the flag around his shoulders and he is quite choked up! We have a few other little trinkets to leave with them.

Turns out that Vinko had phoned his brother the night before and made plans to visit in 2010 and this time Johnny will be going with him. But mum Ztavka doesn't like flying so she won't be coming. Anyway, we issue our card and an invitation to come and visit - Donna also tells them that they will take them for a drink and a meal. Think that he genuinely might get in touch! He proudly introduced us to his own ‘brew’ and offered Donna a sample – her enthusiastic reply was rewarded with a coke bottle full for later!!!

So from here we drive back into Split first to buy tickets and get aboard a boat to go to the island of Vis. We have had a look at the various options available. At this time of the year we have not been able to find a cruise around the islands, only ferries over to them individually. And given that their main traffic is workers, they come in from the islands early in the day, go back over in the mid-morning and then back to Split in time to collect the workers again around 5 or 6 pm for transport home. This is the exact opposite of what we as tourists need – we want to go over in the morning and back late in the afternoon! So we now know that we are going to have to stay on an island overnight if we want sufficient time to have a look around.

Vis is a ferry trip of 2 hours from Split almost in a straight line out into the Adriatic. And the appeal of this small island – well, it is the jump off point to the smaller island of Biševo and its well known Blue Grotto! We had missed seeing the one on the Isle of Capri due to the huge and wild seas, so we were hoping to see this one instead. So, ticket in hand (return 862 Kn or about €125 for the car and the three of us) we and the ticket collector exchange grunts and points and we get the message where to go!

There are a few vehicles waiting, but nowhere near as many as what we encountered going to the Scottish isles or to Ireland. We join the end of the queue and its not long before we are loading. The trip is as smooth as – hardly any movement in the crossing although at times there are small waves just off the boat. We pass the width of the islands of Šolta, Brac and Hvar, riding the channels that are deep fingers of the Adriatic Sea. The occasional rocky outcrop that sits within the channels have small lighthouses to keep the passenger and pleasure craft safe. We also see Korčula in the distance.

Almost exactly two hours after we left Split we are docking at the wharf of Vis harbour. This is what you would imagine any Mediterranean coastal village to look like. Terracotta tiled roofs sitting atop white or at least, pale, stone buildings that hug the shore line. There is a noticeable promenade from which people fish, or stroll, or sit taking the afternoon sun. We know that the boats to the island of Biševo and the Blue Cave leave from the second town on the island – Komiža which is on the other side of Vis, we turn and head for there as soon as we can drive off the ferry. There are two routes – one of 10 kms that goes almost in a direct line up and along a ridge, while the other one is 18 kms and follows a more winding route up into the centre of the island before coming down off the peak into the town. As we have yet to find accommodation we choose the shorter route.

10% slope up towards the apex of the Hum, the highest point on the island at 587 m. And that gained, a 10% slope straight back down the other side. The roads are quite winding and I almost miss the turn to the town ‘centre’ and ‘hotel’. A quick turn around the area directed as the centre does not look promising for accommodation so we decided to turn back to the hotel. Turns out that Hotel Biševo is the only hotel in the town and the only accommodation that is open all through the year.

Anna, the receptionist sounds – well, she sounds just like us! When we comment on her good English, she tells us she spent most of her childhood in Adelaide! Gosh, the small world just gets smaller! She doubts that we will get to the cave tomorrow as the weather forecast is not good (windy). We’ll see in the morning.

After checking in at the hotel we figure that we may as well go for a bit of a drive and explore some more of the island. Now, there are two sets of roads as I explained earlier. So we opt to take the road over the top, via the little villages in the island's interior: Podselje, Marinje zemlje, Podšpilje, and Podstražje. We pass lots of olive groves and vineyards – these are the two main agricultural pursuits on the island. The ground is so rocky and the farmers rake the ground over and pile the rocks into huge mounds. Some are used to construct fences around the lots, while others are still in the heaps. There are old houses, some in current use, some in dilapidated states. The local farmers use an odd little machine that consists of a 2 stroke engine on two wheels. This is then connected to all sorts of things, including a two wheeled tray wagon – therefore you have a stable four wheeled machine! You see them attached to hoes, cutters etc as well.

We are driving slowly because that is all the width and condition of the roads will let you go. We come across what is becoming a familiar sight in Croatia - donkeys! These two are tethered and by the look of the lighter coloured one (and by the berating we get as we pull up) they are kept lean! About the centre of the drive, we come across a sign to Titova Špilja and the universal symbol for caves. So, what to do? Go up of course! At the top of the road we are greeted with steps disappearing into the gorse bush. So, Michael and Donna set off to see how many steps there are. About ten minutes later I hear this “too many steps” coming from somewhere up above me, so I stay put.

Too bad really – they had come across two caves that had been used by the People's Liberation Army and General Tito during their fight for the liberation of the then areas of Yugoslavia that were under the control of Italy. In fact, it was here in these caves that Tito lived with his dog and conducted the business of the Resistance until he was granted a visa that then allowed him to travel to meet with Churchill and Stalin to plead their cause. This was, of course, before he took power and developed into more than his people had expected. WOW, we sure as hell had not expected to find anything as important as this on this little island on the edge of the Adriatic! Suitably impressed, we drive on.

Back at the hotel, Anna tells us that they do have evening meals but we opt to seek a local restaurant. We pass more cats - there are literally thousands on the island. Not sure whether the first couple stowed away on some boat out of Split or what, but they and their offspring sure are having fun multiplying!

The Konoba BAKO Restaurant is on the beachfront near the hotel – literally, if you were drunk and wandered across the patio, you would end up IN the drink of the seawater that laps the walls below. The kitchen is split with the grill open to the diners and where everything from bread slices to whole fish cooked in full view of the restaurant – and the tantaslising smells waft to aid with the sales of yet more food to thse who come in hungry. There was a small pond in the back where they say you can choose your own fish or shellfish for cooking. Thankfully they have more fish inside because the ones in there at the moment would have left us all hungry!
After we had ordered, we went outside to see the most stunning sunset out over the Bay and the neighbouring Biševo Island. Back inside, we settle into dinner ...
Appetiser:
Tuna and anchovy paste served with bread slices toasted over the coals
Entrées:
Sirevi / paški / tivajski (local cheese) Donna and Maria
Komiška pogača (focaccia Komiška style with salted sardines) Michael
Mains:
Zubatac fratar (Rockfish grilled over coals) Michael
Pohana grdobina (Angler fish breaded) Donna
Jastog buzara (Lobster in white wine with garlic and herbs) Maria
Also riža, salate, masline (rice, salads and olives)
Desserts:
Palačinke čokolade (crepes with chocolate) Donna
Sladoled (Lemon gelato and chocolate ice cream) Michael
Palačinke s orasima (crepes with walnuts) Maria

A short walk and we are back to the hotel. It seems that there are only a couple of other rooms occupied. We play Sudoku and read for a little while before crawling in to bed. Its unbelievably cold tonight and in the end Michael goes down to the car to get our blanket for me as well because there are no extra blankets in the room!

Koblenz - Germany's most beautiful 'corner'

Ahh - the joy of a good bed! We both slept well after the feast of last night and in good beds. Most European rooms with a 'double' bed are actually two single beds pushed together - this is not altogether a bad thing as you can roll without disturbing the other party. Just after 1 am a rowdy group of businessmen arrive to their rooms after dinner (drinks?), but as we have just turned off the light, they do not really disturb us!

The next thing I know it is 8 am and the alarm is blaring. The shower is nice and hot with great pressure and has a massage setting on the head, so my leg gets a work out - nice! Breakfast is served just off the lobby. The buffet is varied and generous and includes cereals, fruits, an enormous selection of breads, rolls and pastries, eggs scrambled or hard boiled, cold meats and cheeses, jams, juices, coffees and more teas than I have ever seen in a hotel (they could almost open their own supermarket!). We eat our fill and then check out and hit the road just before 10 am.

It is a big day with lots and lots and lots to see - and of course we have to be selective or we will see very little of it in Koblenz. We head into the old city and park in almost exactly the same spot that Michael parked when we visited here all those years ago. We are near the Marktplatz and while Michael is taking photos of exactly the same buildings I took photos of last time (very interesting roof lines here), I make a beeline for the Florinskirch (St Florins Church) that was not open last time we were here. It is a quiet, cool place - amazingly inviting from the warm day outside given that it is so light. Built in the 1100s, its side altars with their damaged frescoes that date back into the 1300s are amazing and the painted coloured windows are simple and pleasing in their design. The cloisters have not been so well kept, but still portray an area of peace and calm. Flagstones worn or lost have been replaced with pieces of gravestones!

We walk the back lanes, happily seeing what there is to see and taking photos, but not wanting to go in to any of the museums, but rather, taking in the open air museum that the streets portray - we would rather do a trip on the Rhine instead! And one of the streets is closed to traffic. Here we see the benefit of using cobblestones - they are easy to rip up with a backhoe and easy to re-lay once the works underground are complete. I watch as workers relay the cobbles and then throw shovels of fine gravel over them to set them in place. It was disappointing not to be able to go into the Liebfrauenkirche - the Church of Our Beloved Lady because it is one of the three that Koblenz is known for. And the photos from outside promise a special place. Michael sees a Borgward - model Isabella - and poses for a pic! So after two hours of wandering and wondering, we return to the car because we can only park here for two hours and then move it down to Deutsches Eck. Here, the parking fairy is with me and we find a spot four spaces from the plaza, on the waterfront and for the princely sum of €4 for the day! This is great because we will need more than just a few hours here.

First on the agenda is Deutsches Eck itself with the impressive statue of Emperor Wilhelm I - erected by a grateful nation after he unified the country after a series of wars. The spot was chosen by his grandson - the place where two of the major rivers of Germany meet - the confluence of the Rhine and Mosel rivers. It was as impressive as it first was for me in 2006. You can actually see where the waters of the two rivers meet as they are a slightly different colour to each other: the water of the Rhine is a lighter turquoise whereas the Mosel is a 'Mary River' brown! There is a major cleaning and restoration project underway and much of the riverside wall is behind scaffolding. Its a pity as it marrs the look - but we understand that they must do the maintenance some time. Michael climbs the spiral staircase into the memorial plinth while I keep a look out for the next target - a river cruise.

It is not long before the next ferry is due to depart at 13:15, so we purchase our tickets twenty five minutes prior to departure. The cruise vessel is large and comfortable, with seating below and above decks and we had chosen the latter. Well, why not on such a glorious day as it was. The sun shone gleaming and everything just sparkled, the water included. Luckily, the captain had just put up the sun umbrellas over the tables and chairs on the upper deck, so we did not have to subject our skin to the direct ravages of the sun. As we wait for our cruise to commence we order a round of drinks: a glass of dry reisling for Maria and that ubiquitous mineral water for Michael.

As we sip our drinks the helmsman rings his bell as an indication the cruise is to start. However, we're still docked and we notice the 'clock' on the information board has been advanced for the cruise to commence at 14:00! The ruse has worked as additional passengers board, and the cruise commences at 13:20.

So off we set with the boat half filled with various examples of human and canine bodies. We power on up the Rhine River to start, with the fortress on the hill high above us on our left and the old town on our right. We turn back to the confluence and hang a left to journey as far as the City bridge up the Mosel River and then head downstream again to join the now much larger Rhine for a journey further downstream - this time avoiding the very busy barge channels. While there is freight train after freight train heading up and down the lines on either side of the Rhine, the river itself is an important transport route and at times, we see up to three barges passing. They carry oil, gas, coal, rubbish and more of those shipping containers!

Back on shore we take a look at the Church of St Kastor right near the German corner. This is a Catholic basilica minor and much gloomier and less inviting than the Protestant St Florins we saw earlier. It might be of significance to the local communtity, but really doesn't stand out to us as one of the better ones we have seen. Then back into the afternoon heat we go. The amazing formal gardens of the Bishop's palace that I remember next to the church are overgrown now. Again, maintenance works are underway and overall, the place looks unkempt. A pity because the border gardens are still a picture!

So we are now headed back to the German corner and the tourist train that is due to leave shortly. There is just enough time for Michael to get ice creams - Amaretto for me and vanilla chocolate chip for him. So nice and cold. Mm mmm! The train does a route through the town that is further out than what we walked this morning. We see lots of other sites such as the Castle almost obscured by huge piles of bedding sand (and the commentary talks of the park in front of the castle being used for concerts - yeah right! Only if it is the Beach Boys at the moment!)

So, Koblez not really done all that well, but having given it as much time as we can, it is almost 5pm when we head off down the Rhine River by road. But first we detour onto the right bank to have a quick look at Koblenz from the Festung Ehrenbreitstein fort. Built in the 1800s on the site of a much much earlier Roman fortification, this site is undergoing perhaps the largest of the restoration projects in the City. But the views are stupendous and well worth any minor inconveniences.

And then it is down the River we travel, leaving Koblenz on the right bank and crossing at Filsen for Boppard on the left bank. And all the while, we pass castle after castle, schlöss after schlöss. Michael and the camera could not be forced apart at this point! See this map for an idea of not only the route we took from Koblenz to our accommodation tonight at Bacharach. You see what I mean about all the castles? And the towns as well that are below the castles are fascinating.

Tonight we are in the Hotel am Markt in Bacharach. We are right in the market square, opposite the odest buildings in the town that date back to 1368. And the one directly across from the oriole window I am sitting in dates back to 1579! Hard to imagine - huh?! As I sit here in our room typing the blog, I overlook a courtyard restaurant. They must have some sort of special deal for wine tasting and I wonder if the woman I see is going to try and drink all the glasses on the tray they have left her. She certainly responds very positively to most of them so far!

And so when it is time for us to have some dinner, we cross the street to the Weingut Fritz Bastion - the same one across the street and try to find a table. Ha Ha. Much much easier said than done. We eventualy sit out the back only to be told that they do not do table service there. But what the heck, we will sit here, waiting for a table to become free. Eventually, the young waitress hands us a menu with a shrug of her shoulders - it has been busy since they opened at 12 noon she tells us in impeccable English - gosh how nice it would be for the young people back home to take LOTE to the same standard. All the young people we talk with her apologise for their English as 'only my school English' - but most times it is so close to perfect that the might be a native English speaker. And Nina is no different. It is then that we realise that we are in a wine bar as opposed to a restaurant. The menu is more like a tapas menu, but they do have a few meals. So, we order:
Wildsülze mit Bratkartoffeln und Zwiebelsoβe (Wild boar in Aspic with onion sauce) Michael
Bockwurst it selbstgemachten kartoffel salat (Frankfurter with homemade potato salad) Maria
Spündekäs’ mit Pellkartoffeln (soft cream cheese mixed with spices and wine with potatoes) both of us :D
I enjoy a glass of 2008 Bastians Alde Fritz Bacharacher Reisling Trocken and later a Spatlaese in the same vintage - God, how I love the German Rhine white wines!! And that wine tasting plate is just that. For the sum of €14 you have a tray of about 15 different wines to try. Great value. But too much wine for me alone (hic!). However, I have enjoyed the reisling so much I get some to take home to Steph and Felix.

Despite being very busy, Nina keeps a good eye on us and is there each time that we need her - a real asset to the business - I hope they appreciate her attention to detail in her service. Michael leaves a card with her and an invitation to visit us if she ever gets to Oz. Make sure you keep it safe Nina girl - the invitation is genuine!

And after, we hurry up the street (as it is after 9:30 pm) to the Café Restaurant Rusticana where I had a very memorable apple strudel in 2006. They are about to close, but wait for us to wolf down a piece each. And Mum, Donna and Michael - remember Opa placing his horse bets on the mobile phone? Well. There he was, sitting at the table - on a LAPTOP!!!
Astrid is happy to serve us a piece of her wonderful Apfelstrüdel - and yes - it was just as delicious. They are moving forward and when I comment on Opa, they tell us that they have only had the laptop for 4 weeks and that it is a great way to keep his mind alert - gosh, if only there were more people who thought so positively. Anyway, it was wonderful to meet Astrid again and she made us promise not to wait for another 3 years to return - how we wish!

It has been a HUGE day - 947 photos in all - 2.46 Gigabytes worth!!! Just be thankful that I have only uploaded a few.