From prizes to princes

An earlier start today to make sure that we get the most of our visit to Gamla Stan.
Gamla stan, the Old Town, until 1980 was officially known as Staden mellan broarna (The Town between the Bridges), is the old town of Stockholm, Sweden. Gamla stan consists primarily of the island Stadsholmen.


It is a short ferry ride across the inner harbour  in the sunshine this morning, passing four large cruise ships enroute.  There is a slight breeze and the possibility of a shower, so Donna has packed the umbrellas - just in case.Gamla Stan is one of the larger islands in the archipelago that is Stockholm.  It has an area of about 0.26 square kms.  And while we didn't cover all of it,we gave it a pretty damn good shot.  Walked just under 5 kms today so you can imagine how my feet are tonight!  Still I am really pleased with how I lasted and thankful that Donna lent me her arm numerous times on the blasted cobblestones.  There were every possible type of them somewhere on the island - including those little rounded ones that they set on their edges - they are the most painful!
On our way to find the Cathedral (which turned out not to be the church we thought it was) we came across the intricate bronze statue to St George and the Dragon. This dragon was slain in return for the City converting to christianity!  Turns out, this is not the only statue to St George and the dragon, and most certainly one one of hundreds of statues on this elaborate little island.The first major building we entered today is the Nobel Prize Museum. Set in an imposing building facing one of the main squares where the City fountain is set, the interior is dark, although not at all cool!  This centre focuses on the story of how the Prize came about - as the legacy left in the will of Alfred Nobel who had made his fortune in the discovery and development of dynamite. 
Without any direct descendants (although he had large extended family) he decided to distribute his fortune to the recognition of those who excelled in a number of scientific and other fields:

• Physics
• Chemistry
• Physiology or Medicine
• Literature
• Peace

In 1968, Sveriges Riksbank (Sweden’s central bank) established The Sveriges Riksbank Prize in Economic Sciences in Memory of Alfred Nobel. Th Royal Apartments (historic) are more accessible with lift access allowing easy access to the main areas (although there were still steps up from each foyer).  There are two things that strike us Once we had had our fill of the opulence, we retraced our steps to the courtyard just as the Changing of the Guard was taking place. Talk about being in the right place at the right time. We have unobstructed views, unlike the crowds who have just entered the Parade Square and are being marshalled by soldiers! The Guard have some of the best polished helmets we have ever seen!Out through the Parade Square and behind the Palace, we find the Storkyrkan - Stockholm Cathedral, St. Jacob's Church and St. Clara Church.  This medieval church, built from 1279, this cathedral, has been a Lutheran place of worship since 1527.  
By now it is now close to 5 pm and time for us to turn towards the ferry back to Skeppsholmen.  My feet HATE the cobblestones and the uneven roads and pavements, the hills up and down, have taken their toll.  I am really feeling our jaunt today, but thrilled that we were able to traverse most of Gamla Stan.
We return to the Hotel Skeppsholmen somewhat subdued, but happy with the day.
Night all - time to rest the tootsies!

There are not too many people getting off the ferry, although there were plenty on board - so I guess the museums we did over the last couple of days are still drawing the late summer / early autumn crowds.

Gamla Stan has a really interesting skyline with cupolas, towers, spires and the stair-stepped roof-lines reminiscent of those in Brugges and the slightly rounded ones found across many of the other European cities.

Between 1901 and 2018, the prizes have been awarded a total of 590 times.  And there is information on each and every one.  One of the more interesting ways they are presented is on a ceiling mounted tracked system that features each of the laureates on a separate hanging banner.  Other ways they are presented are in decade visual blocks where one can read in detail of the recipient.  And some are featured in special displays.  There is a major display on the works and times of Martin Luther King.  We spent about 2 hours working through the discoveries and works of some of the amazing people who have and are currently influencing our knowledge of our world.

Following our enlightening, we ventured back into the afternoon sun - it is hard to believe that summer is done and locally, everyone is commenting on how later summer is lasting.  After wandering through backstreets, peering down alleyways and into doorways and courtyards, we end up on one of the straight lines that cross the island - Osterlangg, looking for a light lunch.  
The small restaurant Cultur was easy to enter (steps here are everywhere) and in fact, compared to here on Skeppsholmen, very affordable.

Donna had Cod with crab sauce and baby potatoes and I had Chicken with Tarragon, mashed potatoes and white beans.  Washed down with a glass of Italian Pinot it was delicious and very satisfying, providing the energy needed this afternoon.

So we next headed to the other end of Gamla Stan and The Royal Palaces. 

With more than 600 rooms, much of it open to the public, we could have spent a full day in this one complex. However, time is short and there is still so much to see.  Donna climbed the many steps to take some photos in the large Chapel - basically one large hall that hosts major ceremonies.

Straight away we are struck by - the amazing chandeliers in all the rooms, and the plethora of clocks -some rooms with more than one - and all keeping perfect time.  Turns out the Palace has its own clock-maker to ensure that these historic pieces all run true!
There are gifts from popes and princes, priceless tapestries and furniture and elaborate furnishings in the king's rooms.  The Council Chamber still hosts meetings of the Swedish Cabinet three to four times a year with the King sitting as Chairman.
And Karl XI's gallery, modelled on the castle Versailles mirror gallery has a series of chandeliers running its length!

It houses the other statue of St George slaying the Dragon that we have seen today.  This one, carved in timber in 1489 is amazing in its detail.

Tomorrow we check out and will take the train to Gothenburg on the other side of Sweden.  At least this way we will get to see more of the countryside.

There's a little place called Ludwigsburg

Ludwigsburg is about an hour from Schwäbisch Gmünd. Well, it is normally, IF there are no

roadworks and IF there are no Umleitung (detours) and IF those Umleitung don't confuse you and you set off in the wrong direction!  En-route to our destination, we came across a familiar logo - yes, the local Rotary Club in Schwäbisch Gmünd is also passionate about ending polio!

Anyway, today we decided to visit the Ludwigsburg Residential Palace. Steph had taken Mum and I when we visited here in 2006, but Michael had never seen it - and it really is worth the seeing.

The first palace on the site was constructed from 1704 onwards. It was intended as a hunting lodge for Duke Eberhard Ludwig. In 1718, however, when Ludwigsburg became the Duke’s principal place of residence, he sought a more fitting reflection of his power and prestige. The impressive structure was completed in 1733. Today, it is one of the few Baroque buildings to have survived the tumultuous history of the last centuries almost unscathed. This truly palatial complex stands out not just for its impressive size, but also for its sumptuous interiors. It also features a unique blend of three quite different architectural styles: Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassicism.

BUT that is not all.
The Ludwigsburg Residential Palace sits in some of the most impressive gardens you will ever see. 

Even before you get to the entrance, the floral displays lining the outer fences and walls bring anticipation of what we might find inside.

Surrounding the palace on three sides is the massive, 32 hectares Blooming Baroque garden, or in German, "Blühendes Barock." 

Our entrance tickets at €18 each is one of the more expensive entrance tickets we have had to buy over the last six weeks - BUT, I know it will be worth it!
Just the view of the Palace from the entrance gates is mind blowing.  It is huge with stunning gardens, water features and statuary - all before you get in!  The cottage garden beds lining the walk from the entrance gate into the grounds feature stunning dahlias - Dad's favourite flowers.

We wander from garden to garden eagerly drinking in the sites and reveling in beautiful symmetry, gorgeous fountains and stunning statues.  The Rose Garden, like all the gardens is 'walled' within a hedge.  You step into it and immediately are hit with the scent of thousands of roses - it was such a sensory delight.  Will have to let the gardeners back home that take care of the Maryborough Rose Gardens know - too bad I could not capture the scent to share with them.  I really think that the hedge held the scents in!


We wander in and out, making our way to the Garden Cafe where we dined under the canopy of trees with me having the last of the wurst for our trip. Tomorrow, we begin the preparations for our departure for home!  We had the most amazing freshly squeezed orange juice that had all the taste of the fruit grown on the site - and this rivaled even the magnificent juice we get from the oranges from Gayndah back home.   Funny thing was, that even though there we plenty of the wasps around - they didn't wan't that orange juice - just all the sugary carbonated drinks others were drinking around us. Just as well, because they were not getting any of mine! Coffee and cake followed before we resumed our explorations.

As we walked back through a grove of trees under-planted by beds of tuberous begonias, I could't believe the size of the blossoms. To show you the scale, I got Michael to put his Akubra hat in front of the bed - huge, aren't they! 

And at the moment, the gardens are hosting two very special events - one is an impressive display of sand sculptures - including one by the Australian sand sculptor - Kevin Crawford - but the more interesting display is the annual (largest in the world) Pumpkin Festival in the Lower East Garden.

And I mean large.

There are literally thousands of  pumpkins lining the walkways to the exhibit - yes, literally, thousands - I can count more that 700 just in one view!

This year, the theme is Rome and the exhibits all relate to that theme.  Take a look at some of the amazing displays.

There was Asterix fighting a Roman and his side-kick Obelisk nearby,  two gladiators fighting, the Roman 'turtle' that famous Roman army formation invented by Julius Caesar, a charioteer, an Aquaduct and King Neptune complete with a lightning bolt!

On the return to the stunning parterre garden, Michael picked up a couple of pumpkins - a Butternut and something akin to a Jap - to roast for the family dinner tomorrow night!

Once we had done with the gardens and the special displays, we headed in to the Palace itself and joined the last tour of the day. Well, for a while, WE were the last tour for the day and our elderly but informative guide began our tour in perfect English. Unfortunately for us, a German family came in and as the tour was advertised as a German speaking tour, he had to revert. But with the consent of the others, he doubled up, delivering his interesting commentary in both languages. Was a little absent minded - more than once, he told us something in English then relayed it in German, only to then repeat the same in English again!

Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take the camera inside, but to describe it in brief:

• 432 rooms
• largest chandelier weighs 48 ton (a full tour of people standing below it and all clapping at the same time can make this chandelier 'sing')
• there are series of three staircases - the king's/queen's, the knight's and the servants
• the knights hall now houses a chapel where for €180 you can be married or have your child baptised.  This was where the King knighted the members he appointed to his Order of the Golden Eagle
• Eberhard Ludwig, Duke of Württemberg, who commissioned the construction was a big man - 210 cm and 200 kgs!  You should see the size of his throne!  The future kings of Württemberg in turn ignored and restored and further developed the Palace
• the mirror room once had mirrors on the floors as well as the walls and ceilings, but when tours of the Palace commenced in 1906, the ladies complained and so the mirrors on the floor were removed (think about it).  Mirrors were a sign of wealth and to have one mirror was special.  The Palace has 147 in this room alone.

We finally left the Palace after 6 pm and as I was worried that some of the internal gates might have been closed (parts of it shut at 5 pm), we had to return to the car the long way around the exterior of the Palace compound via the streets of Ludwigsburg. My feet are absolutely killing me now.  We have walked about 10kms!

We program Google Maps to direct us back to Schwäbisch Gmünd, only to have it advise us that due to heavy traffic there are long delays. Do we want to take an alternate route to save 25 minutes?   Bloody oath we do!

We stop off at Edeka (a supermarket) so I can buy some drinks to bring home as they are cheaper than duty free.  Finally reach the house a few minutes before 8 pm. Knackered, but happy!

A tale of many Kings in a Kingdom of Smiles

Finally we have access to the internet again - you can't start to understand how frustrating it is for someone like me to not be 'connected'.  Even in the air it is frustrating 😄 

The flight in to Bangkok from Sydney wasn't too bad - it was not full, so we had a bit of spreading room.  We are on an older 747 without a nose or body camera, so you can only follow your trip via the map - ho hum!  
 
So I take to the movies and watch The Zookeepers Wife and then A Cure for Wellness - two very different, but good movies.  We feast on Chicken in Pa-Nang Curry with rice, and a crab meat salad and carrot cake.  All very nice.
And an hour before we land we are fed again - this time, fruit salad, Stir fried Udon noodles with chicken in Black Bean sauce and Wattle seed cookies.

For some reason, we seem to always arrive on flights that land at the furthermost gate from the airport entry.  In Bangkok, this meant a walk of 1000 metres - measure in 150 m increments from the gate to customs.  Crap!

We arrived in Thailand in the peak of the monsoon season, but it had not rained at all on Saturday.  This meant that the humidity was near 100% the whole eight hours we were there - you could feel it as soon as you stepped off the plane.  That was, until you stepped out in to the carpark - at which point I think I began to perspire in a constant stream.

Our guide Suttira met us as planned and introduced us to our driver Jack who had a late model HIGH SUV.  Very comfortable once I managed to climb up into it backwards.
And off we set to do a whirlwind tour of Bangkok by car.  It is a huge metropolis and much like other big cities, is filled with lots of skyscrapers and in the midst of a growth spurt of numerous more. However the new ones are far more interesting in design with many demonstrating gravity defying shapes - there is one that is almost done that looks like an unfinished 3D jigsaw puzzle.  Not sure how I would feel about working or living in one of the extruded pieces.
What you see in large cities in this part of the world though, is high levels of poverty abutting the wealthy areas.  Some of these areas astound you in the fact that they are still standing - most look like they should have fallen years before.
Suttira was explaining that the 6th King of Siam (don't recall his name) after a visit to Europe came back to the then Siam and told the population that slavery was no more, and that the wealthy who had held power in the ownership of land and slaves, freed their slaves and divided the farmlands with them, encouraging them to stay there and farm with them.  This has resulted in the phenomenon of the wealthy sitting comfortably beside the poor.

We drove through Chinatown which could be transported to Chinatown in any other city, before driving through the flower markets that operate 24 hours a day to provide opportunities for the local population to buy offerings for their Gods.  I have never seen so many flowers - ever.  

There were streets and streets and streets of sellers.  Predominantly orange marigolds, but flowers of every colour and type.

As each new King builds a new palace/s, they are all over the city. Palaces and temples.  And at the moment, everywhere there are photos of the former King, for whom they City is still in mourning - King Bhumibol - the People's King, and his successor - King Maha Vajiralongkornralongkorn, who will be crowned following the funeral of his father in October.

At this time of the day (5 pm onwards), all the tourist attractions are closed, so we can only see them from outside (thankfully in an air conditioned car!) - but it is enough to give us a fairly good idea of the size and bustle of this eastern port.
On the way back into the city centre, we see the street vendors setting up for a nights brisk trade.  Once the shopping areas are closed, the footpaths are given over to this ad hoc trade.  Predominantly food, you see sellers of all varieties of meat and seafood as well as fruits - durians were on every corner and every second stall in between.  Suttira tells us that after eating durian, a 'hot' fruit, you should eat mangosteen, a 'cool' fruit to keep the body balanced. She seemed surprised that we knew of both these fruits!

From here, it was around to a 2000 seat auditorium where we had seats to watch the Siam Niramit show with more than 100 performers and 500 costumes which told the story of the history of Thailand. A true spectacle in every sense of the word!
Suttira had suggested that we eat here at the buffet restaurant, but I had asked her to take us to a local restaurant, rather than one that caters to the tourist palate.  So after waiting 1 1/2 hours for the show to finish, she and Jack drove us around to the Kohl Lanta restaurant - a 'posh' restaurant that locals frequent. It is now almost 10 pm and we four are their last customers - we insist that Suttira and Jack join us.  We feast on fried groper, chicken with cashews and broccoli and mushrooms in oyster sauce, with rice.  I am happy to report that the local Thai restaurants in Maryborough and Hervey Bay offer authentic foods if what we eat here is any comparison!

Then or time in the Venice of the East is at an end and we are driven back to the airport for our 00:50 flight to Munich.  
This flight is fuller than our flight in from Sydney and we are cramped with two others in to the centre seats.  Hopefully, we can sleep.  We now sooner take off than we are pumping zzz's only to be woken and offered a meal in under an hour - and you know how hard it is to get back to sleep after you are woken!  We weren't hungry, just tired, so declined this meal.

Someone near a window opened their shade in the wee hours and at 4:22 am I witnessed the most beautiful dawn looking to the east. Meal time again, and this time we are served, omelette, sausage, tomatoes and hash brown, with brioche rolls and jam.  And coffee.  Had. to. have. coffee!
This morning I began watching Jackie - but the thought of arriving looking like I had bawled for the entire flight put me off, so I turned over to Collateral Beauty - not much better really.  And finished this leg off with Just for Laughs - GAGS - hilarious and laughed myself stupid.

And before long, we were landing in Munich.

Will need to post photos when I work out how to get them from the camera to the laptop!

Lago Maggiore - the best of Italy rolled into one

Today we have planned to explore the communities around Lake Maggiore by boat. We begin the day with breakfast in the hotel dining room. While still a continental breakfast, it really is quite good and the service is the best we have had for breakfast for a long time.

As I said yesterday, we are only about 200 m from the Ferry Terminal. There are a number of companies operating from here - but really, they are not the smick, over-marketed ones we have found in the bigger cities. The one we are travelling on - Navigazione Lago Maggiore - is government run. I guess the only thing that really gives it away as such is the number of staff on the boats! Life runs to a different pace, and although the ferries are spot on time, there is a feeling that this could more just be the consequence of a habit as everything else works on laid-back time!

The view of the lake from the terminal is magical, there is a slight cover of haze which doesn't dilute the beauty of this region. We purchase our tickets for €12 each which entitles us to hop-on-hop-off at either of the Borromeo Islands, Isola Superiore; Isola Bella; Isola Madre, or the mainland. The choices we have to face, particularly on such a glorious day like today! So, what the heck - we'll decide what to do on arriving at Stresa.

The lake's surface is like glass, disturbed only occasionally by the wake of passing boats. The brilliant blue sky is mirrored by the lake, which adds lustre to our surroundings. Everywhere, all is a sparkle - life's a bugger when one has to work!

The ferry stops at each of the islands, disgorging its garrulous cargo and taking on additional passengers, who are just as boisterous! Life can be grand. The island of Isola Bella, is long and narrow with a palace equal in width and its high palatial gardens giving the impression this island looks like a ship?

Now, we had mentioned the two Irish fellows whom we met the other day, and who recommended the 'il Burchiello' restaurant - which is a gem. They also suggested we seek out the town of Stresa and in particular its market place. They were spot-on with the restaurant . . . as for the village?

The ferry births at Stresa, where we alight and make our way towards the town's centre. Initial appearances can often be misleading, no different today. Our first impression was one of disappointment, until we ventured beyond the waterfront. The sight which beheld us just took our breaths away, for here we have discovered another gem. This village just radiates an ambience which is captivating which somehow suppresses the 'tourist throng'. As we walk through the leafy piazzas the enticing aroma of food and coffee is just too much to resist.

Initially it’s COFFEE we yearn, however, as we enter the Piazza Cadorna and amongst all of the cafés we notice the chalkboard for the 'Mini Bar Ristorante'. The chalkboard announces the Ristorante's special for the day - Risotto con Gamberi e Zucchini (Risotto with Prawns and Zucchini) - however, it is COFFEE we yearn! Finding a table under shade, we sit and consider our verdict...Michael answers the universal question by stating: "To hell with this - I'm having the Risotto!" So, our yen for COFFEE had progressed into an all out feast..... Our young waiter arrives and takes our order but does not notice Helen is without cutlery, napkin and etc. A waitress notices this oversight and calls to the lad in Italian and in exasperation blurt out: "Huh...boys!” to which we all laugh and Maria indicates her approval with a 'thumbs up'.

The service, food and coffee are superlative. The risotto certainly did not disappoint, which was deliciously aromatic and the bread was a crusty and light accompaniment. However, our eyes are bigger than our stomaches...well Maria and Helen; whereas Michael displays his acuity as the 'human vacuum cleaner' and finishes the rest! We pay our bill and compliment the staff and Chef for their service - and round the experience off with a photo session with the Chef!

We resume our promenade through the streets of this delightful hamlet and find ourselves in the Piazza Possi. Here the piazza is bordered by various shops, and one in particular draws the interest of Maria and Helen. Initially, Maria selects an assortment of tea-towels and a book on the Borromeo Islands to be posted home. However, inside, this shop boasts such an array of Italian ceramics which one could not imagine. The proprietor is vivacious and friendly who possesses a style on how to work tourists, without being overtly 'pushy'. The shop does have a small amount of 'tourist junk' but the quality is within the stores' confines, which our hostess is eager to promote.

Helen looks to the ceiling in absolute glee "Oh look, Maria. That chandelier would be perfect in my room" "Ah, madam" Madame Christine says in her impeccable English, "you choose the most expensive item in my shop. Here let me show you the catalogue from the manufacturer. And yes, it is easy to post to Australia - I post many things to Queesland in the past. And look, the vat is less than the shipping so you save money! Instead of €6,450, you only pay €5,400 plus the shipping - see you save money!" Helen of course is still trying to swallow the bitter pillow of the price discovery and maintain a cool demeanor. Christine however is on a role and brings out item after item to show us. She really gets in to conversation with us and when Helen makes some comment about never thinking she will find someone who talks more than us, Christine volunteers that she is known as 'Radio Christine' to which I reply "ha ha and I am Radio Maria" at which point she chortles - "oh yes, we DO have a Radio Maria" and we tell her we know - and took a photo of the radio console when we found it after hiring the car!

It’s getting close to 3pm, so we saunter back towards the jetty and the ferry terminal for the homeward journey with a stop at Isola Bella. This island appeared particularly interesting on the forward journey, with its palace, gardens and statuary. Alighting onto the island we find it boiling with humanity - we're coming into autumn; imagine what the island must be like in summer? And it is geriatric central. The only people we see younger than ourselves are some of the souvenir stall staff! We wander through the narrow streets which are festooned with market stalls displaying clothing, trash and treasure. We stop at a stall displaying an array of clothing and scarves which Helen keenly scrutinises. Although, the stall seller does not secure a sale from us, she willingly guides us into the direction for the entrance to the gardens.

We arrive at the portico to the palace, and Helen and Michael head for the ticket booth for – you guessed it - ticket prices… Ooookaay, all we wanted was to see the gardens, however, at €12 each the visit wasn’t going to happen and we sure as s*it are not even slightly interested in the Palace and Garden combo ticket at €35! We were quite satisfied to admire and explore the exterior of the island – we weren’t disappointed. In retrospect, the island does resemble a large seagoing vessel as used in their marketing. Now that our curiosity has been satisfied it’s time to make our way to the quay to catch the ferry to Pallanza – ooh la la there is a gelato stand near the terminal! Yu-um - REAL italian gelato in ITALY!!!

The return journey was just as pleasurable and a satisfying ends to a most enjoyable day. Returning to the hotel its time to pass what remains of the afternoon to slumber or a good book – life can be a right bugger? However, we must re-energise for our evening at ‘il Burchiello’.

The evening has crispness to it as we walk towards the restaurant under a gossamer of stars. Upon entering the restaurant we are greeted with a warm welcome and directed towards our table, and no sooner are our orders taken.

Entrees:
Tortino di Pasta Spoglia Pere e Cannella con Crema di Bettelmatt (Cinnamon flavoured Pear Tart topped with Bettelmatt cheese sauce) Maria
Cozze Afogate Al Pepe Macinato Fresco (Mussel Soup with freshly milled Pepper) Helen and Michael
Mains:
Filetto di Maiale con Verdure fresche Prosciutto e Strati di Patate (Pork Fillet with fresh Vegetables Ham and layered Potato) Maria
Ravioli Al Ripieno di Borraggine con Ragù di Pesce Spada (Borage-filled Ravioli with Swordfish Ragoût) Helen
Spaghetti Alla Chitarra in Guazzetto di Pesce al Cartoccio (Spaghetti in Fish Sauce baked in Tinfoil) Michael
Dessert:
Crèma Catalana (Catalan Crème Brûlée) – Maria, Helen and Michael