Lago Maggiore - the best of Italy rolled into one

Today we have planned to explore the communities around Lake Maggiore by boat. We begin the day with breakfast in the hotel dining room. While still a continental breakfast, it really is quite good and the service is the best we have had for breakfast for a long time.

As I said yesterday, we are only about 200 m from the Ferry Terminal. There are a number of companies operating from here - but really, they are not the smick, over-marketed ones we have found in the bigger cities. The one we are travelling on - Navigazione Lago Maggiore - is government run. I guess the only thing that really gives it away as such is the number of staff on the boats! Life runs to a different pace, and although the ferries are spot on time, there is a feeling that this could more just be the consequence of a habit as everything else works on laid-back time!

The view of the lake from the terminal is magical, there is a slight cover of haze which doesn't dilute the beauty of this region. We purchase our tickets for €12 each which entitles us to hop-on-hop-off at either of the Borromeo Islands, Isola Superiore; Isola Bella; Isola Madre, or the mainland. The choices we have to face, particularly on such a glorious day like today! So, what the heck - we'll decide what to do on arriving at Stresa.

The lake's surface is like glass, disturbed only occasionally by the wake of passing boats. The brilliant blue sky is mirrored by the lake, which adds lustre to our surroundings. Everywhere, all is a sparkle - life's a bugger when one has to work!

The ferry stops at each of the islands, disgorging its garrulous cargo and taking on additional passengers, who are just as boisterous! Life can be grand. The island of Isola Bella, is long and narrow with a palace equal in width and its high palatial gardens giving the impression this island looks like a ship?

Now, we had mentioned the two Irish fellows whom we met the other day, and who recommended the 'il Burchiello' restaurant - which is a gem. They also suggested we seek out the town of Stresa and in particular its market place. They were spot-on with the restaurant . . . as for the village?

The ferry births at Stresa, where we alight and make our way towards the town's centre. Initial appearances can often be misleading, no different today. Our first impression was one of disappointment, until we ventured beyond the waterfront. The sight which beheld us just took our breaths away, for here we have discovered another gem. This village just radiates an ambience which is captivating which somehow suppresses the 'tourist throng'. As we walk through the leafy piazzas the enticing aroma of food and coffee is just too much to resist.

Initially it’s COFFEE we yearn, however, as we enter the Piazza Cadorna and amongst all of the cafés we notice the chalkboard for the 'Mini Bar Ristorante'. The chalkboard announces the Ristorante's special for the day - Risotto con Gamberi e Zucchini (Risotto with Prawns and Zucchini) - however, it is COFFEE we yearn! Finding a table under shade, we sit and consider our verdict...Michael answers the universal question by stating: "To hell with this - I'm having the Risotto!" So, our yen for COFFEE had progressed into an all out feast..... Our young waiter arrives and takes our order but does not notice Helen is without cutlery, napkin and etc. A waitress notices this oversight and calls to the lad in Italian and in exasperation blurt out: "Huh...boys!” to which we all laugh and Maria indicates her approval with a 'thumbs up'.

The service, food and coffee are superlative. The risotto certainly did not disappoint, which was deliciously aromatic and the bread was a crusty and light accompaniment. However, our eyes are bigger than our stomaches...well Maria and Helen; whereas Michael displays his acuity as the 'human vacuum cleaner' and finishes the rest! We pay our bill and compliment the staff and Chef for their service - and round the experience off with a photo session with the Chef!

We resume our promenade through the streets of this delightful hamlet and find ourselves in the Piazza Possi. Here the piazza is bordered by various shops, and one in particular draws the interest of Maria and Helen. Initially, Maria selects an assortment of tea-towels and a book on the Borromeo Islands to be posted home. However, inside, this shop boasts such an array of Italian ceramics which one could not imagine. The proprietor is vivacious and friendly who possesses a style on how to work tourists, without being overtly 'pushy'. The shop does have a small amount of 'tourist junk' but the quality is within the stores' confines, which our hostess is eager to promote.

Helen looks to the ceiling in absolute glee "Oh look, Maria. That chandelier would be perfect in my room" "Ah, madam" Madame Christine says in her impeccable English, "you choose the most expensive item in my shop. Here let me show you the catalogue from the manufacturer. And yes, it is easy to post to Australia - I post many things to Queesland in the past. And look, the vat is less than the shipping so you save money! Instead of €6,450, you only pay €5,400 plus the shipping - see you save money!" Helen of course is still trying to swallow the bitter pillow of the price discovery and maintain a cool demeanor. Christine however is on a role and brings out item after item to show us. She really gets in to conversation with us and when Helen makes some comment about never thinking she will find someone who talks more than us, Christine volunteers that she is known as 'Radio Christine' to which I reply "ha ha and I am Radio Maria" at which point she chortles - "oh yes, we DO have a Radio Maria" and we tell her we know - and took a photo of the radio console when we found it after hiring the car!

It’s getting close to 3pm, so we saunter back towards the jetty and the ferry terminal for the homeward journey with a stop at Isola Bella. This island appeared particularly interesting on the forward journey, with its palace, gardens and statuary. Alighting onto the island we find it boiling with humanity - we're coming into autumn; imagine what the island must be like in summer? And it is geriatric central. The only people we see younger than ourselves are some of the souvenir stall staff! We wander through the narrow streets which are festooned with market stalls displaying clothing, trash and treasure. We stop at a stall displaying an array of clothing and scarves which Helen keenly scrutinises. Although, the stall seller does not secure a sale from us, she willingly guides us into the direction for the entrance to the gardens.

We arrive at the portico to the palace, and Helen and Michael head for the ticket booth for – you guessed it - ticket prices… Ooookaay, all we wanted was to see the gardens, however, at €12 each the visit wasn’t going to happen and we sure as s*it are not even slightly interested in the Palace and Garden combo ticket at €35! We were quite satisfied to admire and explore the exterior of the island – we weren’t disappointed. In retrospect, the island does resemble a large seagoing vessel as used in their marketing. Now that our curiosity has been satisfied it’s time to make our way to the quay to catch the ferry to Pallanza – ooh la la there is a gelato stand near the terminal! Yu-um - REAL italian gelato in ITALY!!!

The return journey was just as pleasurable and a satisfying ends to a most enjoyable day. Returning to the hotel its time to pass what remains of the afternoon to slumber or a good book – life can be a right bugger? However, we must re-energise for our evening at ‘il Burchiello’.

The evening has crispness to it as we walk towards the restaurant under a gossamer of stars. Upon entering the restaurant we are greeted with a warm welcome and directed towards our table, and no sooner are our orders taken.

Entrees:
Tortino di Pasta Spoglia Pere e Cannella con Crema di Bettelmatt (Cinnamon flavoured Pear Tart topped with Bettelmatt cheese sauce) Maria
Cozze Afogate Al Pepe Macinato Fresco (Mussel Soup with freshly milled Pepper) Helen and Michael
Mains:
Filetto di Maiale con Verdure fresche Prosciutto e Strati di Patate (Pork Fillet with fresh Vegetables Ham and layered Potato) Maria
Ravioli Al Ripieno di Borraggine con Ragù di Pesce Spada (Borage-filled Ravioli with Swordfish Ragoût) Helen
Spaghetti Alla Chitarra in Guazzetto di Pesce al Cartoccio (Spaghetti in Fish Sauce baked in Tinfoil) Michael
Dessert:
Crèma Catalana (Catalan Crème Brûlée) – Maria, Helen and Michael

Lake Maggiore or bust

Aagghh - gosh how I wish that I could put emoticons on here - you know the one with the wiry frazzled hair and the wriggly mouth and wild eyes that says aaagh! The news on the car continues to develop ...

Even though the German car industry is the epitome of efficiency, the recent sale of Opel means that the part needed to get us back on the road properly won't be here until Monday afternoon. There is no way we are prepared to sit here and last night we spent some time planning what to do. There is a Fiat Punto (little car) available for the ghastly sum of €75 per day and the hotel where we were booked in Pallanza on Lake Maggiore in Italy has agreed to transfer our booking to the next two days (rather than the last two). So all is not totally lost.

We spent the next couple of hours after breakfast here at the hotel this morning transferring luggage to smaller bags, collecting our wanted 'stuff' from the car and filling in paperwork for the hire car. Finally about midday we are ready to head out. Unfortunately for Domodossola we really were not in the right frame of mind to explore - maybe once we have our car back we might have a quick look - just maybe! Now I am in an Italian vehicle - sitting on the left of the car, driving a small manual and changing gears with my right hand! I can tell you, it takes a few minutes to get used to it! And I think poor Helen, now sitting on my right is fearful of me hitting a guard rail!!! We search for some music on the radio and find - RADIO MARIA - well, what else, we are in Italy!

We are only 45 kms from Pallanza, a mere 40 minutes or so - can you imagine how frustrating that has been? Anyway we head off, initally travelling towards Milano (make sure you get the liting pronunciation right!) before we turn for Lake Maggiore at Gravellona Toce getting caught in vehicular gridlock at two of the main roundabouts in town. Once through them, we discover one of the reasons - there are major roadworks on the road out to the Lake and they have one lane blocked. We inch forward along with many impatient Italians who I am sure have much better places to be.

And then we are on the Lake. Oh. My. God. Oh yes we are back to the days of stunning scenery. The lake (which is one of the largest in Europe) is edged by the most stunningly beautiful terracotta roofed villages and small towns! And we are headed to one of them! Gosh, how lucky are we. Kate is working a dream and we find the hotel very easily. I park just near the ferry terminal which is about 200 m away. First on the agenda is Caffe - we all need a coffee. There is a small cafe overlooking the water and we take a seat on the terrace out the back looking out over the Lake. The menu prices are very affordable and before we know it, we are adding panini orders to our coffees. Michael orders speck and tomato, Helen gets salami and I opt for tomato and mozarella. They arrive, warm and light and delicious.

At the table next to us there are two gentlemen quietly chatting in lovely lilting Irish. We (well, Helen) introduce ourselves ad chat with Bill and Joe, Irishmen from County Clare who have been over for a wedding - they give us recommendations for dinner and a town to visit on the other side of the Lake. Lunch down, we check out the options for a boat ride and then come over to the hotel. I have not slept very well over the last two nights and am craving a bed for a couple of hours. We are lucky that the Hotel will allow us to check in now - many don't want new guests arriving until the late afternoon.

So I head for the bed and some zzzzzzzs while Michael and Helen take a stroll through the town. I can't sleep and get up to do a bit of blogging. Helen is back soon and is surprised to find me upright and hitting the keyboard. Once she is in though, I do lie down and doze off.

They are thrilled with what they see of the town. There are lots of narrow little streets, stairways leading between the tall houses up to the top of town. There are palatial mansions overlooking the water with stunning gardens and then there are dilapidated former ones that are sitting patiently, waiting for the lavishing of tender loving care to restore them to their former glory, or perhaps waiting for the final death-knell that will see them demolished and some modern new lady take their place. Ah yes, this is a place with soul and heart. Sure, there are plenty of tourists. But so too are there lots of locals going about their every day in this beautiful setting. There is quite a haze today though and it is not the best of days for photos across the Lake!

So finally I wake from much needed sleep and we set off in search of the recommended restaurant. All we know is that it is the last restaurant before the Tourist Information Centre, it has an upstairs patio and they do an amazing Mussel Soup. It is about 450 m from the Hotel, walking along the lakeside promenade. The local authority has done a wonderful job in making this area a place for everyone to be. There are lots and lots of seating in different configurations that look out over the water, but set amidst trees and gardens so that there is the opportunity for privacy as well. There are sculptures and memorials and small fountains. This place has the perfect mix of character for the tourists and a sense of permanence and support for the local community. Hmmm - there are more than a few Australian communities who could learn form this example!

Anyway, enough of the grandstanding. We do find the restaurant - il Burchiello. From the front it looks small and quaint, but inside it is quite spacious. We head upstairs to the patio and are greeted by an unprententious setting. Nice, well spaced tables laid with fresh linen in tones of greens and muted oranges and browns. The staff are very friendly and we are quickly handed menus that lay out their offerings in Italian - and thoughtfully with English, French and German translations underneath. This makes it so easy to be confident in ordering!

Ahh, Michael is going to follow the recommendation of the Irish and try the Mussel Soup which is a starter. So once we salivate over the menus, we finally decide on:
Entrees:
Cozze Affogate al Pepe Macinato Fresco (Mussel Soup with freshly milled pepper) Michael
Rotolini de Pesce del Nostro Lago in Agrodolce (Sweet and sour rolls and fillets of local fish) Helen
Tortino di Pasta Sfoglia Fere e Cannella con Crema di Bettelmatt (Cinnamon flavoured Pear tart with Bettlematt cheese sause) Maria
Mains:
Tortellacci al Nero di Seppia con Vellutata al Salmone Affumicato (Cuttlefish parcels with Veloute of Smoked Salmon) Michael
Fritti Pan branzino con uno strato di patate Capesante (Pan fried Sea Bass with a layer of Potato Scallops) Helen
Disossate Trota di fiume in padella con burro e mandorle (de-boned River Trout pan fried in butter and almonds) Maria
And although we really didn't need them, we all ordered desserts as well!
Panna Cotta ai Frutti di Bosco (Panna Cotta with mixed berries sauce) Michael
Crema Catalana (Catalan Creme Brulee) Helen
Bonnet Dolce Piedontese al cioccolato con biscoti Amaretti (Chocolate Peimontese bonnet served with Amaretti biscotti) Maria

Wow, what a meal. The service too was impeccable - we were attended to with such care and attention. So nice after the last couple of days! And the owners are genuinely pleased when we show our joy at their offerings. So, we do a first fof this trip and make a reservation for dinner here tomorrow night as well! Now, a stroll along the promenade to try to walk off some of what we have just eaten before returning to the hotel for the night. Ciao!