Romans, countrymen, it's time for a Bath

It was a little cooler this morning so breakfast under the sun shining through the Conservatory roof was just lovely thank you. A really nice breakfast it was too - a good selection of cereals, fresh (tropical) fruit slices on the table, plunger coffee and a cooked to order hot selection. I chose to go with a lighter poached eggs on toast while Michael opted for the whole Hot English Breakfast. This will no doubt see us past lunchtime!

Michael heads into the Tourist Information Centre to enquire about the Bath Red City Bus Tour. Walking along the impressively wide Pulteney Street he comes in to the city centre passed the Guildhall indoor markets complete with painted pigs. Information and map in hand, he returns. I, in the meantime, complete the blog listing and upload it. The Internet connection is variable and Greg, our host, makes sure that I can access it - even allowing me to use their kitchen - thanks Greg, greatly appreciated.

We started with that familiar City Red Bus Tour - well in fact, we started with two of them. There are two routes through Bath - one that does the inner city area and another that goes further afield around the perimeter of the city and includes the University.

Bath is really an amazing city. The architecture is something else again - with the credit going primarily to two architects, John Wood the Elder and then on his death, John Wood the Younger (his son). They were responsible for the beauty of the symmetrical, grand Georgian designs. The crowning glory are the Royal Crescent and then the Circus. These both feature 4 - 5 storied terraces that are set in graceful curves and all built in Bath Stone - a local yellow limestone. Of course, this architecture complements the earlier Roman and then medieval constructions. The Circus is aptly named for it clearly represents a Roman amphitheatre, with the circular village green the arena. All that was missing were the Gladiatorea and Venerati, and the Emperor pressing his thumb!

Once we were back in town after the tours, Bath Abbey was the first port of call. This spectacular piece of architecture dates back to the early 12th century where a great abbey was created which dominated Medieval Bath. In 1499 the then Bishop of Bath and Wells, Oliver King, dreamed of angels ascending and descending ladders to Heaven and the former Abbey was rebuilt to what stands today. And those angels are still climbing (and some falling) today! There is so much to see, but so little time in which to see it! We forgo the opportunity to climb the tower for views over the City as it is a one hour excursion.

After grabbing a quick milkshake we took ourselves into those famous Roman Baths whose entry, like the Abbey, faces into the Abbey Churchyard - the huge open square that surrounds the Abbey. As you enter, you go through a 'modern' building (dates back to the19th century) and then from behind a glass promenade you begin to get views of those famous waters. They are a full storey below you and this provides a magnificent view. Then you walk around an outside perimeter that has 10 Romanesque statues depicting the emperors while all the time, the Abbey dominates the air space around you.

Now, I was quite disappointed. I thought that the entire baths dated back to the Romans. But this is not the case. The Roman Baths were not discovered and explored until the late nineteenth century. The statues date to 1894 - they were carved in time for the grand opening of the Roman Baths in 1897. In reality, significant construction was undertaken to develop the site as we see it today - there were no full columns left standing and you can clearly see where they were reconstructed from the stumps that remained.

Once you walk around this perimeter, you go through a huge museum (like, it takes at least an hour to just walk through without stopping to explore all the exhibits). In here though, you continue to get glimpses of the baths while exploring the history of the Romans in Bath. As you go down deeper under the ground level, you find the inner workings of the baths and its various ante-chambers still exists as the Romans had built it. This includes lead piping, drainage channels, tunnels, furnaces, under-floor heating, plunge pools etc. And then, and only then, do you have the opportunity to walk out and face that beautiful and evocative space.

Despite what I have just said, the knowledge that it is not all original does not diminish the beauty or its impact one little bit. I always remember Helen telling us how beautiful and special the baths were, and I totally agree. One absolutely amazing piece of trivia is that the lead sheeting that Roman workers pounded to an evenly thick 3cm layer and then riveted in to place on the bottom of the pool (overlapping them to ensure that the pool was water-tight and that no fresh water from the water table could seep into the pool water) is still in place today - still water-tight - after 1900+ years!!! I'd like to see any plumber today achieve that!

But this bath, as beautiful as it is, was only one of a number of baths and the King's Bath still exists in exclusion - you can only look down onto, or out onto it - you cannot get up close and personal. The water that feeds the baths, and the modern day spas of Bath, has bubbled up out of the earth at a constant rate and temperature for all those years also. Mother nature really knows how to weave her magic. We continue our exploration, talking with staff and actor characters that all add a dimension to our visit (they all love the Aussies - but everyone keeps asking where the corks for Michael's Akubra are!). We finally leave as they are closing the doors behind us at 6 pm.

All around the Abbey are pieces of public art - really quirky pieces that seem to feature rabbits a lot. Kind of lends a contemporary feel to this much older space. And there were so many other things that we saw as well - the fascinating Pulteney Bridge that was modelled on the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. This bridge crosses the River Avon and between the two of them, provides wonderful postcard views.

It was a warm day in the sun and sheltered from the wind and again I am reminded of the Noel Coward tune - Mad Dogs and Englishmen. Still can't believe how the lily whites are prepared to sacrifice their tender skins to the ravages of the scorching sun.

Sally Lunn's House has existed as a bakery and eatery since 1680 in the oldest house in Bath dating back to the 1400's. Many people have told us we should not miss having a meal here, so before we head back to the tranquility of the Orangery, we join the queue to have dinner. It didn't take too long to get a seat thankfully, and the wait staff were as busy as. The menu sounds interesting, but the meals are very - well, homely is probably the best word I could use to describe it. Michael says that they are very authentic - just minus the weevils! Was a pity after the huge plug it was given. And after the wonderful meal we had last night.

Michael gets a few night shots before bed - ahh yes, that comfortable bed beckons after a pretty full day - physically and mentally!

Dr Who in Bath

I was able to get to bed a little earlier last night (10:30 pm) and crashed. The blackout curtains in the bedroom were working really well and it was after 7 am when I woke (Michael was, of course, still pumping zzzz’s) – yeeha 8 ½ hours sleep – that is a first for ages!

The shower was great so the day is good!! And the traditional Welsh breakfast of poached egg, bacon, sausage, tomato, lava bread (seaweed & oats) and cockles (cold & sans shell) was, well, interesting. Actually it was tasty even if Michael did eat my cockles!

We are continuing our look around Cardiff this morning and before we head into the city centre we go to have a look at the Llandaff Cathedral (the Catholic Cathedral of Saints Peter & Paul). We found parking in a little square hidden from the main streets – turns out it was the original market square. The church is actually more interesting from the outside than the inside, although it has a beautiful Chapel to Our Lady. The other thing that it has is a very interesting pipe holder for a new organ that is currently being installed – can’t say that it appealing to my tastes – the arches they have created to support it seem very out of place with the classic arches of the church’s construction.

We have decided not to do the Red City Bus Tour as most things are within an easy walk of parking and we have already seen Cardiff Bay. We continue into town past Cardiff Castle and bless her little heart, the parking fairy provides us with a space literally right outside the council and the courts. The Cardiff City Hall is a truly impressive piece of architecture whose dome top is crowned with a bronze statue of the Welsh dragon. Michael went in asked for a look and they showed him around the impressive foyer areas and in to the even more impressive Council Chambers (note the laptops on the desks – yes, technology catches us all).

The National Museum Cardiff is just next door and has free entry (as do all national museums and art galleries in Wales and Scotland). There are a number of major exhibits including the geology of Wales, the china industries and a very impressive art collection. What we want to have a look at though is the Charles Darwin exhibit and a showing of wonderful photographs by Diane Arbus. There were a number of sculptures by Rodin and the painting Camden Town Portrait by Walter Sickert, who was once considered a possible suspect in the Ripper murders (only Michael would know that piece of trivia).

In the foyer there is a screen with a live feed to a small colony of peregrine falcons that are nesting in the ledges of the City Hall Bell Tower. Back for their third year, they sat on their eggs for the required time (28-32 days) but then abandoned the nest and as it is in accessible, no-one knows whether the chicks died soon after hatching or even if the eggs hatched. When we go back outside, you can see evidence of these nests high in a number of the surrounding buildings and statues.

The car parking ticket needs to be renewed so I go back while Michael races up to Alexandra Gardens a block away to take a closer look at the stunning war memorials – one to the WWI and the other to the Falklands War.

And then for something totally different . . .
I had seen the advertisements for a Doctor Who Exhibition back towards Cardiff Bay and so off we go. It is located within an entertainment complex with the cinemas. There are warnings re strobe lights and advice to children that if the adults they are with get scared, to hold their hands! Nice. The exhibition is incredibly well done. I have tolerated Dr Who for years and years, and the work they have put into this impresses even me. It goes without saying that Michael is almost wetting his pants!

Ah – Dr Who…. Yes, Maria is correct by stating the exhibition impressed even her. Any visitor could not be tempted into showing a modicum of enthusiasm towards this showcase. Indeed it was most impressive, as it covered the series’ history from its inception through to its current intrepid Doctor. Several of the exhibits displayed the costumes worn by the successive actors: John Pertwee (Dr Who #3); Tom Baker (Dr Who #4) – to name a couple. Other exhibits displayed some of the Dr’s protagonists: Sontaran Warrior; Cybermen and Dr Who’s nemesis – the Daleks.

Strobe and laser lights flashed and swept the exhibition; whilst, displays were supported by television screens showing excerpts from the respective series. Overall, the special effects added to the ambience; however, the display of the Daleks’ rise was the icing on the cake. Their sound resonated while they did the Dalek dance and threw their firepower at us. A little corny in the high tech world of today’s animatronics but when you think that these were developed almost 50 years ago, it is impressive.

Its almost 4 pm and we need to be heading towards Bath. It will take us about one and a half hours to get there and we really want to detour briefly into Caerleon to have a look at the Roman Bath House and fort. As we are leaving Cardiff there is a huge traffic halt and for about 7 kms we are crawling at 8 – 15 kph. Roadworks….again! Once we are through them, it takes about 30 minutes to get to Caerleon and we arrive right on 5 pm – and just as the Bath House (which also has free entry) closes. The amphitheatre and barracks however are open all the time and so we can take a look.

The fort must have been rambling, and possibly the size of a small satellite city, if the area of the barrack precinct is any indication. As with most Roman forts, all that remains are the foundations, ditches and perimeter walls…maybe. I suppose to give the area some perspective, the floor area of each of four barracks’ is 40 metres by 10 metres. There are the remains of the two kitchens and four external ovens and two granaries. A 100 metre section of the fort’s eastern perimeter wall remains, and runs parallel to the amphitheatre.

The amphitheatre seems to have fared better than the barracks, being built as an arena in lieu of a semi-circular theatre. This colosseum could seat a modest 5000 spectators, who would be entertained by blood sports of varying degrees. However the amphitheatre would also have been used by the garrisoned troops as a training ground. The arena’s external walls have long disappeared; seating is evident and preserved under a dense layer of soil and grass. The main and alternate gateways still remain as does the small snack bar with its oven. The amphitheatre has been rejuvenated as an open-air theatre, and while we were there a troupe were making preparations for some sort of performance.

Then it is on to Bath. We get back on the motorway and join the heavy traffic towards Bristol and Bath that must be commuters. It was all uneventful until we hit Bath when, road works yet again means that the traffic crawls. Not a problem though – I have phoned Denise at our accommodation so she knows when to expect us.

Now that Kate is armed with the address, we have no problems finding Queen Charlotte's Orangery B&B – gosh, what did we do without her? (he he he) We are met at the door by Denise who leads us into a fairytale. This is the original Orangery built for the visit by King George III and Queen Charlotte to Bath in 1817. The door to the Orangery sits alone in the sheltering wall and is very unobtrusive. You step down two stone flagging steps into a circular room and look out through glass french doors into the stunning garden beyond. Denise tells us that before she and husband, Colin, came to Bath about 2½ years ago that they had run a larger B&B in London for 14 years, winning the Best B&B Award for some years. When they sold the business the new owners did not want the garden, so they dug it up and packed it into a pantech and brought it to Bath with them – which explains the mature garden after only 2 years.

The Orangery sits behind the house constructed for the royal visit that now houses 5 apartments that cannot be altered in any way. Evidently one has a huge ballroom! This building was the orangery - the hothouse or conservatory. It is very obvious that Denise and Colin love what they do. The welcome is warm and genuine and the offer of a cuppa in the garden on arrival is a lovely touch. So in the late afternoon / early evening (7:30ish) light we sit amongst the roses and lavender and wind down from the trip. But our joy is only half done – Denise opens the door to our room - The Amelia Room, and all I can do is gasp! It is decorated in much the same style that you would expect that the bedroom might have been for the royals.

The bed is huge and every little detail has been addressed from the soft (pea-less) mattress to the firm but soft pillows, to muted bed lamps and period furniture. We overlook the garden from our window. The bathroom is large and airy and you step into a heavenly rain-head shower.

Once we have taken in the joys of the room, we decide to go for dinner. Denise has given us a ‘Restaurants in Bath’ guide map. Parking is the biggest issue in Bath as we find in many older cities. Even more so here, as the city sits in a tight valley, with residential areas climbing the steep slopes. After unsuccessfully trying to get parking near the first two we consider, my little angel weaves her magic again and we have a park about four kerb places away from the Beaujolais Restaurant. It is 9:30 pm and the kitchen is about to close so we are asked to ‘please order quickly’. The menu has a nice range with three choices on the set menu and another five on the a-la-carte. We opt for the latter, tempted by a number of the offerings. Finally (ok, ok quickly) we decide.

While waiting for our meals we are served two types of home-made bread and hazelnut oil and I sip on a Raspberry Bellini – man, am I loving these raspberries!
Entrees:
Homemade Ravioli of Fresh Tomatoes with Black Olive Butter (Michael)
Brixham Crab Patties, Fresh Cucumber Salsa and Lemon Dressing (Maria)
Mains:
Rump of lamb served with fresh peas, broad beans and barley(Michael)
Corn-fed chicken served with a warm potato and leek salad and Madeira Jus (Maria)
Desserts:
Chocolate pecan tart with stem ginger ice cream (Michael)
Pistachio sorbet with caramelised pistachios(Maria)
And we finished with espressos.
Now, this meal was superb, from the breads to the coffee. Without overdoing it, it is hard to do it justice. The ingredients are combined to produce a wonderful marriage of flavours – so that you taste each individual flavour through a wedded bliss. And the service was excellent. Our waitresses (Brigette, formerly known as Malagie! from the Champagne area in France, and Jenna who was born and raised in – Hobart!) are friendly and attentive. I guess we showed just the right level of enthusiasm as the chef, Simon, came to say hello as he was finishing for the night. Our one true regret of the night is forgetting and then not going back for the camera. So, sorry, no photos.

So, back to the Orangery and a night’s sleep fit for a Queen!