The Iceman Commeth...?

It was nice to have a good night's sleep at the Grindelwald Youth Hostel - it is definitely worth paying the extra to have a room to ourselves and our own bathroom (my days of sharing are definitley over!!) This morning was dull and dank. It had rained quite a bit during the night and while the rain had stopped, there was an incredible heaviness to the low clouds that hung in the valley. We were up at sparrow fart (6 am) as we knew we needed to be in for breakfast early to beat the crowds. Breakfast is served from 7:15 am and we had tickets for the 8:25 am train from Gründ, a few kilometres down the road.

After last night's introduction to a Youth Hostel 'dixie-bashing' dinner, then breakfast was an equally illuminating experience as well. However, as with last night's fare - there was plenty of including muesli (but not Alpen) that tasted like cardboard, bread, butter, jams or nutella (the backpackers staple!) ‘ham’ and cheese, yoghurt and a mix of tinned and fresh fruit; all of which was wholesome and the coffee was FREE (whereas last night it cost CHF3 per cup!) and is probably the most popular item! A Canadian asked if they had a toaster and was told no, sorry.

So that over, off we head. There is still plenty of parking right near the station at this hour of the day, and it is so much cheaper (6 CHF for the day) than in Grindelwald town as well. There are a few other people waiting for the train and when it pulls in, we discover that almost ¾ of the train has been reserved for groups. Still, we get seats without a problem – very cramped though – must be the Swiss way to encourage people to get to know one another – you have to rub knees with the person opposite you! Heaven help the winter skiers with all the extra clothing on – must be extra squeezy!

The Swiss certainly know how to construct a railway system, and the Jungfraubahnen (a UNESCO World Heritage listing) is just amazing. Construction commenced in 1890 and throughout the years, and gradual upgrades has not altered the railway as being the oldest 'rack-and-pinion' rail system still in operation. To ride this conveyence is an experience in itself. Anyhow, we board the train at 8:20 for the 8:25 Jungfraubahnen to the destined snowdomia, in the interim a special 'reserved' two car set arrives at the station bulging with Japanese tourists. Well, this contingent either spent the night at the summit or had an exceptionally early start.

The first leg of our trip is overland in a 2 carriage yellow train. As soon as we leave the station the climb begins and it is not long before we are traversing grades of between 30° and 45°! I kid you not!! The train has a regular wheel system to which has been fitted a pinion or cog mechanism that turns in a rack for extra purchase and passenger peace of mind!

It takes 25 minutes to travel up out of the valley floor to the change point at Kleine Scheidegg. All the while we watch (through the clouds as they part, then clear a little) as the township of Grindelwald shrinks to even less than dolls house size. And looking heavenwards, we marvel with awe at the alps' manufacturing clouds - truly, these mountains are 'cloud nurseries'.

The grass is green up in the pastures and although the majority of the spring melt is well and truly over, there are still plenty of small rivulets and waterfalls streaming water down the hills into the valleys. This, together with the obvious hooven animal tracks wreak havoc on this fragile environment and there are many spots where you can see erosion - and in some parts quite bad erosion devastating this landform. Still enough of that.

As we climb higher the clouds stay with us. When we get as far as Alpiglen when you can usually get your first glimps of that famous north face of the Eiger Mountain, all we see is cloud with just a little part of the lower wall visible. Still, as we get higher we will be up above the clouds and our views will improve! We reach Kleine Scheidegg and change for the train up to Jungfraujoch. This is the junction for the line we are on, and another from Lauterbrunnen, so there are more people around. There is the same St Bernard Dog with his barrel of rum around his neck that was here when we were here three years ago. And he does not look like he has had a wash in that time either! Still, the Japanese tourists love him and there are lots of them crowded around having a group photo! The handler looked positively bored!!

So from Kleine Scheidegg we board another 2 carriage train for the ascent through the mountains to the peaks. We travel up through a series of galleries (half tunnels) that are cut into the side of the slope before entering into the bowels of the mountains - a tunnel that travels through the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau Mountains. There are two scenic observation windows that have been cut into the mountain face - the first at Eigerwand on the face of the Eiger Mountain (looks out to the north west) and the second at Eismeer on the eastern face of the Eiger. Today, both are fully immersed in dense cloud and all we can see from either station is a glaring, blinding white! However, the five minute stop gives Michael the chance to check out the train (as he would!!).

And then we are there. We have reached the summit and are now at 11,333 feet above sea level. The actual summit of the Jungfrau Mountain is still a further 2,309 feet above us, but this is as far as we can get by train. The carriages disgorge their contents and there is a rush to be at the head of the pack - gosh, don't know why - there really is plenty of space for everyone! We make our way into the tunnels that carry millions of tourists each year to a number of viewing and activity areas. We decide to head down the quieter tunnel and will first go to have a look at the Ice Palace. I did not go into this icy, slick cavern when we came up last time as I was worried about slipping and hurting my leg BUT this time I have come prepared - I have my walking sticks with me! So into the ice we go. Gosh, it is cold here - and slippery. But it is amazing to see the ice up so close. The ice 'faces' have gone though Mum and Donna, replaced by a little ledge that we squeeze through a small tunnel to lean on - same effect though - you can be photographed looking out from the ice ledge. Many of the scupltures down here are the same ones that we here three years ago - and looking just as pristine.

From here we go out on the Plateau where we are still cloud bound and the snow is starting to fall. We are here with a million Japanese, some of whom are so inadequately clad so as to have peddle pushers and thongs on - NO KIDDING! I mean it is 0.8° and with a wind chill that is taking is well south of that. You would think that as Japan has high mountains as well, that they would be better prepared - but I guess if you are a Tokyo girl, maybe not! All I can say is that even warmly dressed, I was not hot and with my boots on and poles firmly in hand, the going was still pretty slippery - especially around the entrance areas where traffic is very high, the snow melts and then freezes over. Still can't believe that anyone would be so stupid as to come up in bare feet with thongs! (And while I am having a gripe, why oh why don't I have a program that will make me looker slimmer!)

So, the first mountain top snow experience out of the way, we head up to the Sphinx where we make our first stop at the restaurant. It is early for lunch (11:45 am), but I can't stomach the thought of being there with the crowds that are up here today. In memory of Mum, I have a schnitzel and pommes frites (french fries) and we get one of the meat and cheese plates to share. Michael however can't come at Spag Bol (for my brother Michael) and instead has a huge Bratwurst Sausage (that didn't need flushing until much, much later!) with pommes frites. We get a window seat and watch the clouds forming patterns on the glacier and snow below us. We don't get to see much blue sky yet, and there are times of total whiteout with a combination of snow and cloud obscuring everything!

Still, at times like these, there is still plenty to look at inside, like the middle aged Japanese woman in heeled court shoes, or the Indian lady in high wedged thongs, or the brash, loud American girl in open sandals and shorts!

As we get ready to leave, the hordes are arriving for lunch (yes, ours was a wise decision) including the groups. We start to see the lots of Indians that I remember from last time as well. We leave and go up to the Sphinx Observation Tower. Up a lift that travels the 108 m at a stomach grabbing 3m/second! We walk out into blinding brillance - the clouds still have not fully lifted and the glare is magnified by the huge plate glass windows. A walk around to the stairwell entrance and some other tourists happily oblige by taking a photo of us together under the sign - no cutting and pasting me into the shot this time!!

They have the whole foyer area out on to the observation deck heated - so much so that we can't wait to get out into the cool! Part of the walkway around the edge of the deck is closed due to falling icicles and snow - no need this time for the men with the chainsaws and shovel sleds to be clearing the snow - but we are a month later than when I was last here in 2006. The clouds are now beginning to break, burned away by the midday sun in the cool, high mountain air. And yet, as we continue to gaze with wonder at the amazing scenery all around us, still the snow falls. Michael enjoys trying to catch some on his tongue! We watch a flock of birds landing and casting off the rock ledge below us. It's amazing these little creatures don't suffer from frostbite; as they leave their claw impressions in the small ice rifts. They land on the ledge and despite teh multitude of signs in a myriad of languages about not feeding the birds, plenty do - predominantly the Indians. They are so tame that I am even lucky enough to get a series of photos of one of them preening - standing less than a foot away from it!

We walk around the observation deck snapping away. While it is snowing, it is not heavy and at the moment there is amazingly little wind, so it is not too cold at all. And the clouds play hide and seek with our views! From time to time we can see the people on the snow below us, while at other times the are obscured by that whiteout. Michael however is champing at the bit to get down there. There are a huge array of activities on offer - from skiing and snowboarding, to dish skimming (their version of cardboard sliding!) to husky rides, to a thrill-seekers flying fox line) to walking either independently or with a guided group to the head of the glacier or beyond. So down stairs we go. But my hip is really starting to ache now - a combination of some more strenous walking and the cold I think, so I will stay and have a look at the art exhibition currently showing while Michael takes a walk.

So off he heads - Glacier Head bound. He is in for quite a treat. Not only does he get to look down on the glacier from near its head, he also manages to capture a series of small avalanches falling (though I am not sure how clear the photo will be once it is reduced for the blog) and finally the sun shines through - giving him a true impression of just how blue and clear the sky can be up here in the heavens. But looking back on the impressive Sphinx Meteorological Station, he can only get a shot of it with a heavy grey background - unlike that amazing photo that I got with the clear summer sky behind it last time. And he should have out more sunblock on - but didn't, so now his face glows, even though we was wearing his hat, the reflected gare off the snow has given him quite a bit of a burning. No doubt it will be brown by morning!

So, a full day almost done, we are ready to head off mountain and back to the valley floor. The train trip down is slightly amusing as most of the people aboard just go to sleep. In their defence, I will admit that the heating was on and it is somewhat stifling. One of the Japanese tour group guides is also amused and busily takes photos of her sleeping charges - no doubt to embarrass them with later! Michael also gets a good shot. It is amazing how many people don't look good with their mouths open, and also amazing at just how many people do sleep with their mouths open when they are sitting up!
We again marvel at the changing scenery on the trip back down and as we near Kleine Scheidegg see a couple of walkers trudging across the landscape. When we actually get to the station, they are already there and I ask them how fay they have walked.
"Oh just from Schiltorn today"
"How long did it take you?"
"Not too long - 6 hours"
Not too long? Not too far? Who are they kidding???? There is a perfectly good train that they could have got from Lauterbrunnen and not have even needed to go up to Schiltorn - still, whatever rocks your boat!!!

At Kleine Scheidegg we decided to get cups of coffee and cake for afternoon tea. The Apfelkuchen looked wonderful, so that will do us. When it is delivered to our table, I can hardly believe my eyes! The slices are H U G E. And the German fellow at the table behind us just laughs and laughs and laughs. When they order the same, I notice that they only order one between two! Too bad they did not order first! I mean that cake was delicious - light cake base covered with heaps of grated apple mixed (I think) with some of the cake mix to hold it together and then a crumble like top. Actually, it was very light. And wholesome food insists Michael, no junk, as her polished off his piece and almost ⅔of mine as well! Yeah, right, whatever makes you feel good darling!!!!

Then it is back on to the yellow train for the valley and Grindelwald. Back through the galleries and with a bit better a view of the Eiger north face as we journey through. The clouds have still not lifted. The trip down in uneventful and I get chatting to some other travellers who have also come over from France. But they are not staying up mountain and have to travel back down to Interlaken when we get down. We make comparisons re the differences we see in the Swiss and French Alps. With the exception of the Mont Blanc range, the Swiss Alps are 'high mountains' compared to most of the French Alps. Mind you, they are all connected and what in fact we experienced in Manigod was the lower slopes on the other side of these Alps. Michael however, is taking more photos at the carriage door, so his hat has a seat all to itself. Comes in handy, does his Akubra - most people pick us for Australians straight away - although the questions about the corks are starting to wear a little thin!

And so back on the valley floor we arrive about 6 pm, tired but thrilled with our day up in the big mountains. As I had expected, Michael was really stunned by the experience and I suspect I'll never again hear the words, "Alps, not more b***** alps!" And diner tonight? Who the hell needs dinner after that Apfelkuchen! We are happy not to have anything. We have a nap, and then while Michael heads up to the main building, I begin the blog, downloading and resizing the photos and then watch 'Twilight' a movie that Michael really wanted to see that I have downloaded through iTunes. Good plot, pretty good movie. Bit too girly though for Michael I suspect. So now I am off to bed.

Alps, not more b***** Alps

Now, for those of our friends back home, you might recall that these were the very words uttered none too quietly by Michael when I was part-way through showing my photos from our trip to Europe in 2006. Well, today I get my revenge - for those b***** alps are exactly where we are headed - Grindelwald, at the foot of the Jungfrau range.

Leaving Manigod was not easy in that we had spent a very pleasant week there and in the surrounding areas. We have set Kate for Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland and for once are happy to use the motorways as it will save us 2 hours on the trip across country. In order to get there we had north through Annecy, Geneva, almost to Bern before we head south east for the Jungfrau area in the Berner Oberland region. And yet, our final destination is almost due east of where we are. So why so far out of our way? Well there is a thumping great mountain range in between where we are and where we are going! To travel due east we would need to climb up and down quite a few of those mountains and cross many of the valleys!

And so, off we set. One last stop in the village at the boulangerie to get our final authentic French croissants and a baguette for lunch. We meet more traffic coming up the mountain today than we have any other day we have been here – due to a beautiful Sunday morning. But that doesn’t last real long. Down off the mountain we get to Thônes only to find the route to Annecy blocked. We have passed a whole stream of vintage cars –maybe a festival of sorts. There is one sign pointing to an alternate route, but nothing to follow it up! We drive for about 8 kms with Kate constantly begging me to turn left, turn right, turn around. By this time we have lost most of the traffic and I realise that by going through La Clusaz (the road we are on) we will add hours to our journey and may as well go over the mountains. By gosh, there has to be another route our through Thônes – I don’t care how big the event is, they would not be able to block the main road. So back into town we go, me getting more stressed by the minute – I mean, today of all days, just when we are trying to get somewhere in the shortest possible time – grrrr. The fellow at the barriers can only tell me to follow ‘le deviation’ and when I tell him there are no signs he points in the general direction of where we have just come. In the background we can hear bands playing now as well! So again we turn around and follow traffic but this time I play closer attention and realise that all the traffic is doing illegal U-turns to come back through town on another road. So when in Rome . . . and so do I.

That sorted we get through Thônes following a plethora of cyclists (maybe they too are part of the event) to the outskirts where we make a stop at the Museum of the Haute-Savoir Resistance (to the Germans in WWII). The sight of those 105 crosses in the bright morning sun is very moving. The museum itself has the original crosses that marked the graves of these brave fighters and a little information on each of the people. Really though, just a quick stop.

So back on the motorway we head. The traffic burns along at 130 kph and for once, I am happy to push it as well to make up for lost time. We come up to the border crossing just outside Geneva where there is a currency change unit with parking right on the motorway at the border plaza so we are able to change some Euros for Swiss Francs (CHF) and as we have already got our motorway vignette,we are waved through at the border point with no passport checks, no nothing! It’s not long before we hit the tunnels that I remember from Switzerland – long and curving – the longest one we travel through today is 3.065kms! The French go around the mountains – the Swiss just go through them! Traffic speeds vary – in the tunnels and just before and after them it is a 100 kph limit and at one lot of road-works (remember that Europe is full of them at the moment) it is down to 60 kph! Frustrating again!!! We don’t want to stop for lunch so Michael constructs our sandwiches en-route, on his lap in the front seat – roast chicken and cheese, please. Gosh the French know how to do bread – crusty with soft but dense bread, it is delicious. We follow that with nectarines we are trying to finish.

This part of Switzerland is much flatter than the France we have just left. Where there is not a city or town, there are a patchwork of crops – fruit trees, grape vines (that was a bit of a surprise), maize, sunflowers, hay, corn and the list goes on. We pass more apricot vendors too – must be the peak of the season locally.

But the whole trip is only 3.5 hours and we are soon travelling around Lake Brienze and then Lake Thunersee and before we know it we are turn off towards Interlaken and nearing its centre, we then head back into the mountains towards Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen. The weather is closing in and the clouds are much lower down the mountains. I keep telling Michael that he will be blown away with his first view of the high Alps, so it is a bit of an anti-climax when the tops are all shrouded in thick cloud. But as we near Lauterbrunnan we are rewarded with the odd glimpse of snow capped peaks high above us.

Lauterbrunnen is known as the land of the waterfalls. We drive right through town to the area that (brother) Michael parked when we were here in 2006. And there they were, just as I remembered – three waterfalls. Staubbach falls spews forth over the top of the escarpment (you can just see the edge of the stream feeding it) to fall in a single continuous drop to the valley floor below – a drop of 300 m t=and the longest in Switzerland. You can climb up to a ledge about a third of the way up for magnificent views through the waterfall mist to the town below. Michael climbs up (the grade is about 30% with lots and lots of steps). And now the rain starts to fall. The clouds have come almost all the way to the ground and are now emptying their contents on all and sundry. And yet, it is not cold.

With a quick stop to get information about the cable car that goes from here up to Mt Schilthorn 2973 m (9748 feet). There is no-one in the office, but Michael manages to get a timetable. As we head down towards the turnoff for Grindelwald we pass huge humps of drying grass (balanced on timber tripods). The smell is amazing – all rotting grass and cow dung – phew. I had warned Michael about the smell of countryside Switzerland and he agrees that I was right. But where you have grass you have cows and where you have cows you have methane and faeces! Still, doesn’t really take too long to get used to it. (The difference to home is the damp wet musty smell that accompanies it all – at least at home it dries out and stops ponging!)

And so finally to Grindelwald. The town has grown substantially in the last three years and where there were previously some empty hillsides, now there are shoulder to shoulder chalets and ski shops and hotels and shops and garages. And ski shops, did I mention the ski shops?! Guess in the summer they supply the walking fraternity – it is HUGE in the Alps! We stop at the Tourist Information Centre to enquire re the weather for the Jungfrau tomorrow and the lass tells Michael that there is rain predicted for the next couple for days – but she also explains that the weather is so very changeable in the mountains. So off we go and part with 316 CHF (Swiss Francs) for two train tickets from Grindelwald Gründ to the Jungfrau Top of the World Station via Kleine Scheidegg. Yes, expensive, but who cares – this is a trip not to forget!

Much lighter in the pocket, we return up the hill where I head (from memory) straight to the Grindelwald Youth Hostel. A minor panic when we find the car park full, but one of the staff offers us a parking spot on the grassed roof of a garage! Must admit, I held my breath as I parked and did not park in too deep for fear of going over the edge! I think though that it is a regular occurrence given the tyre marks in that grass. We register in with Caroline at the desk. Friendly, super efficient and speaking at least four languages that we hear her converse with guess in! We are in the new block closest to the full car park. Dinner and breakfast however, is back up the hill here at the ‘old’ block. Dinner is served from 6:30 pm to 7:30 pm – that will be a challenge – we have been eating between 9 and 10 pm for the last couple of months! Michael takes a short stroll and discovers that many homes show a quirky sense of humour. And what is it with the fire hydrant half way up the mountain side - is it in case of a forest fire or to give some sense of security to the four houses a little way from it?

Our room is simple but functional. Towelling bottom sheets on the single beds pushed together and doonas. But we have a private bathroom with a walk in shower, so who cares! And while at 267 CHF, it is not cheap, but then those of you who have been to Switzerland will attest that nothing comes cheap here!

Who would know it! But it is getting darker much earlier and so by 7 pm we are ready to head back up. Dinner is simple but hearty – tomato and vegetable soup and bread, salad consisting lettuce, red cabbage and a mix of canned corn, grated carrot and tomato, pork schnitzel pocket filled with ham and cheese served with cheesy potatoes. Washed down with plain or spring water and finished with paddle pops. Nothing fancy, but it was all fresh and well prepared. Nothing like we have been used to in France that is for sure – but at a fraction of the cost as well! (16 CHF each). So now here I am – preparing the blog in Word so that I spend minimal time on the internet uploading it – at 6 CHF an hour I can’t afford to dally. I have prepared all the photos in advance as well.

Early start tomorrow – breakfast at 7:15 am so that we can get the 8:25 am train up to the TOP OF THE WORLD. Big day for Michael tomorrow – though I don’t think that he fully appreciates it yet!

Annecy and a boat ride on the Lac

You know after a little bit of wind and rain the flies disappear - which is just wonderful. But it doesn't take long for them to return and me to pick up the fly swatter again. Gosh, don't they know that it is safer for them and the pickings are better, much better, higher in the mountains with the cows?

We are now trying to finish the food we are carrying so breakfast is a feast. Fruit toast with some of the delicious Reblochon cheese, mushrooms on toast and tomato on the side (drizzled with a little balsamic) - that should keep us going for the day! Each morning Michael puts the dripolator on as well, so we have great coffee to go with it.

Today we headed down to Annecy - it looked so lovely when we drove through the other day we thought we would go take a closer look. Our first introduction to the laid back lifestyle was the slow pace we made travelling up the hill behind the Citroën version of the beach buggy. Just after we took this photo, the car behind us started to overtake us (I don't think he could see them in front of us) and then realised that the car was there. They were obviously friends who started to wave animatedly, so he cut in in front of them and pulled over as they followed him off the road - so much for his hurry! Yes, life is slower here.

Like the guy sitting in the middle of a roundabout decked out in full winter gear with skis - waiting for someone to come and have a drink with him. As we drove by, a group of young people crossed from a local bar, drinks in hand, to join him. Wonder, was it a dare gone wrong? Who cares, looked kooky in the hot summer sun.

But the best was to be found away from the car! As we Like many European cities, Annecy has an old town that has been pedestrianised - in fact much of it along the Thiou canal must have always been limited to pedestrians - they are not wide enough to let more than 3 people walk abreast, so you could never have got a horse and cart down them!

These days, there are lined with restaurants - there are literally more than a hundred. And today as we stroll every single one of them is doing a roaring trade! We stop at an Artisan Boulanger (baker) and bought a jamon and gruyere bagette (about a foot long and 3 inches in circumference) plus an croissant aux amandes (almond croissant) and a huge chocolat meringue! So we walked on, taking lots of photos of the old town and provincial French life before finding a seat on the canal amidst the artists working away with their finished works on sale around them and enjoying the bread and pastry. The meringue we put away to have tonight.

Then we hear this loud hoot just behind us and there it was, a ferry pulling away from its berth across the road. A ferry! On Lake Annecy! Oh yes please!! So off we trot - we can see another ferry tethered a little way down the path. The ticket booth is nearby and we see that we have about a 15 minute wait - just as well, the lady selling the tickets is on the phone. When she finishes, between her passable English and our improving French, we manage to buy two tickets for an hour long cruise on the 'La Belle Etoile'.

On a vessel that has a capacity for 200 passengers there might have been 50 people, so there was plenty of space and opportunity for photos! The lake, like most in the mountains, is a beautiful turquoise colour. And the locals really know how to appreciate it. Every conceivable type of water craft are out there in the light breeze on the lake - paddle boats, canoes and kayaks, sailing boats, power boats, waterskiers and the odd ferry or three. But we are not at all crowded - as the Grand Lac and the Petit Lac between them provide plenty of open water space for activities. And on the 'beaches' of the lake the rest of the population is taking the sun while the kids play on the diving boards and the water slides. It is a beautiful day, and don't we all know it!

The cruise is lovely. Passing real estate that none of us could even afford to visit, hotels whose daily tariffs take a weeks wages and the amazing pivately owned chateaux and castles - one that has been in the ownership of the Menthon family since it was built in 12th century! It takes the full hour to travel the perimeter of the Grand Lac. We power along under diesel moving briskly - faster I believe than the breeze that caresses our backs. Oh. My. God. What is that in the skies above the southern end of the lake? Is it a bird? Is it a plane? Is it Superman? Gosh no - it is about 40 paragliders and parachutists - seems that this is a well known training area! Wow, don't ever expect ME to be up there!! (You will probably have trouble seeing them in the photo).

The trip back into the shelter of the Canal shows maybe the best face of Annecy dominated by the Annecy Castle and the spire of the Cathedral of Saint-Pierre. And then when back on land, we find narrow streets, bridges, tiny alleys and doorways through the town walls with buildings above them all centred around the canal that divides the old town in three.

The most impressive sites along the canal are the Palais de l'Isle, once a prison that juts out to the lake like the bow of a boat, and the wedge shaped building at the other end of the canal island that was once home to a local merchant.

Then there are specialist butchers, bakers, souvenir shops and hundreds of magasins des crème glacée (ice cream shops) - well maybe not quite that many, but there are lots. And the flavors are amazing - Michael has a Cappuchino and I wanted a Citron Vert (Lime) but they were out so I had to settle for a Banane Flambe - mm mmm! And you should have seen the marzipan fruits and animals - honestly, if you bit into an apple or orange that is exactly what you would have expected to taste - they were so realistic. Oh and talking about realistic, I am not sure whether it is mutton or lamb we are looking at as an older (quite a bit older) couple strolls past!

So we wander along the streets as a thunderstorm that has been building in the hills rolls down in to the valley and blusters away. Some noise and lightening but very little rain.

Our final stop before we leave to return to Manigod is to the Basilique de la Visitation. Set high on the hill overlooking Annecy, this quite imposing facade hides some of the most beautiful stained glass windows we have seen to date. Three candles burn brightly there - one each for the mums and for Mutti, recovering from surgery in a hospital in Stuttgart.

So back to Manigod to pack up everything. We leave here tomorrow for Grindelwald. We are staying at Youth Hostels for the most of the next week without WiFi - so we will be restricted to our internet time (we will have to consider other users at their internet desks). Send us an email if you need to contact us 'cos I think we won't be able to Skype. Then it is back to Germany to spend a little time with Steph and Felix before we head off to Austria. Take care all!