Shrunken heads and food galore

The day awoke cool, windy and wet - what a change from two days ago when it was in the low 20s. It is really too wet to be bothered with getting too early a start. We go through all the papers we have been collecting of late and begin also to get some parcels ready to send back to family members in Australia.

We check out of Linton Lodge just before 11 am and head into Oxford to go to the covered market. But we are unable to get parking anywhere within the vicinity and so decide to give it a miss. So we head out to the Cherwell Boathouse Restaurant for an early lunch. It is amazing how different it looked today in the bleak weather. But the restaurant is indoors, beautifully appointed and looks out across the Cherwell River and all the punts, lonely, tethered to their posts and unable to escape to journey with the current.

The food was absolutely sublime - there is no other way to describe it. We were present with three menus to choose from - a-la-carte, set menu and lunchtime special. Each of them tantalised us with new takes on old favourites. We decided to choose from the lunchtime special as it was half the cost of the set menu (which was significantly cheaper than the a-la-carte) and looked just as appetising. And was it so! You bet!!!

As we received our drinks we were given home-made semi-dried tomato and chive bread. Once finished, Michael asked for more bread and we got home-made flour bread warm from the oven. They then brought out an appetiser - a shot of sweet potato soup, rich and velvety.
The entree choice was easy - we both had the Crayfish tails with julienne of cucumber and mango salsa. Mains were:
Pan fried gilt-head bream, River Teign mussels, black truffle potatoes, crayfish butter (Michael)
Grilled pork chop, mustard mash, apple & crisp fried sage (Maria)
And the desserts were too good to pass up:
Raspberry brûlée with rich vanilla ice-cream (Michael)
Lemon tart with marscapone (Maria)

As a lunch menu this was sublimely well balanced with flavours that complemented each other, with none over-powering the other. To celebrate Maria has a glass of champagne with lunch and we have some of that blasted Blenheim sparkling water. So just as our visit on Monday was memorable with Elaine and Helen, today was just as so, in a different manner.

By now, the rain has stopped although it continues to be very overcast and quite cool. So its is was back into the city to go to the Oxford University Museum of Natural History and the Pitt Rivers Museum (within it). We get parking about a block away and walk down past some amazing architecture. The Museum entrance is set back from the road behind a truly Oxford grassed quadrangle. The facade towers over the arched entry into a foyer where you get a tantalising glimpse of what is to come up a set of worn limestone stairs. (You almost fall over the large number of baby prams left trustingly here too). So up we go . . .

The first impression is one of light and space. The Museum was designed as a 'cathedral to science', and home to the University's scientific collections. The architecture is as amazing as it's collections. The most striking thing about the Museum is the glass and iron roof of the central court. Evidently the first design of the roof using mainly wrought iron had to be taken down before it was completed because it could not support its own weight. The cast iron columns are ornamented with wrought ironwork in the spandrels representing branches of species including sycamore, walnut and palm. This gives this huge space an elegance that defies all the structural supports that are in place! Amazing space!!

And then there is the collection. One of the things that we have noticed with many of the museums here in Europe is that they are kid friendly and indeed encourage people to touch and feel and explore many of the exhibits. In fact, the first sign that you see when you enter the display area is PLEASE TOUCH. There are people everywhere and just as many big kids as little ones are touching! We found the oldest thing we are likely to see while we are away, a piece of quartz from the Ural Mountains in Russia that is eleven hundred million years old. Yep, 1,100,000,000 years old!! Might not interest everyone, but hey, I am a rocky kinda gal so you will just have to lump it (pardon the pun!).

There are dinosaurs, and marsupials, and insects and birds and snakes and rocks and rocks from outer space (meteorites) and the history of life and Deoxyribonucleic acid and then some. Could go on and on and on. Suffice to say I am in my element (gosh the jokes are bad today!). There is the Oxford Dodo, the real 'Alice' and the museum's link to CS Lewis, gemstones in their natural state, and a fascinating special exhibition on Charles Darwin celebrating his birth 200 years ago. Altogether a fascinating place to spend the afternoon.







Ahh - and then there is the Pitt Rivers Museum that is attached to the Oxford University Museum. This is an amazing anthropological collection of the finest magnitude with the name referring to its initial benefactor rather than a place. Perhaps the most fascinating is the collection of shrunken heads. And where the natural history museum is light and airy, this collection is in a darkened space a few steps down from the main museum. Children are given torches - I would think more to take their minds off the dim and ward away any nightmares rather that for any real purposes of lighting. Even in the dimness, we have no trouble seeing where to go, or the exhibits themselves.

So with our natural curiosities aroused even more and hardly fully satisfied, we take our leave of Oxford. This is definitely one of those cities that you could come back to time and time again and still not see or experience it all. We are off to another De Veres Venues property tonight- Sunningdale Park - this one is home to the National School of Government and is located near to the Ascot Race Course and Windsor Castle. It is also very close to Anna and Gary's home and we will catch up with them tomorrow night.

We are not as impressed with this venue as with its sister Barony Castle. Our booking form had not been carefully read and we request a change of room - not a good start. Then we need to call maintenance and the list goes on - all minor issues, but certainly takes the gloss off. But the bunny feasting on the lawn outside our bedroom window is very cute!

After such an amazing lunch we decide to forgo dinner and just feast on the cherries and strawberries Michael got yesterday. And as there are a number of movies that we want to see out at the moment, we decided another movie night was in order. We need to keep them going if we want to see them in English as we only have less than a fortnight here now. So onto the web to try to find the closest theatre. It is 16 miles away at Fultham. And off to see Night At The Museum II - kind of appropriate after today - don't you think?! Light and fun in a nonsensical way, but not as good as the first one. Guess you kind of know what is coming huh? So we go to bed tonight filled with amazing facts and photos. Whew, hope we can get to sleep!!!!

A quieter day in Oxford....

We rose slightly later today to an overcast sky heralding rain. However, the clouds broke after precipitation just for a short while. After our delightful and brilliant excursion yesterday, we decided to approach today at an easier pace.

We first headed for the hairdresser whom the girls had recommended to Maria: Holly @ Lyster Hair Design. Arriving in Banbury Road we found it to be a hive of havoc and industry, and any available parking appeared to have dissolved. With time ticking closer towards Maria's 11am rendezvous we completed a circuit of this Circus Maximus, and once again Maria's Parking Fairy directed us to a vacant parking spot: right next to Lysters! So, with purpose in her step, Maria ventured into the hairdresser's, whilst I maintained vigil with the car as parking was valid for 30 minutes only.

I wasn't sure whether I was amused or alarmed at the lack of available parking, as drivers appeared to park anywhere and anyhow to secure a spot. Non-parking areas, driveways and pedestrian accesses were fair game for these errant consumers. Albeit, Maria exited the cosmetologists with aire of relief and joy at having her locks lopped - the first since the 8th March!

Dismissing breakfast at our hotel, we drove into Oxford to have brunch at a greasy-spoon, 'St Giles', as recommended by Eileen and Helen. The fare on offer was of a high cholesterol content - but, cooked with fresh produce providing a delicious repast. Breakfast consisted of: Sausage and egg on bruschetta, fresh orange juice and a hot chocolate (Maria)
'House' breakfast: eggs, bacon (to die for), sausages and baked beans (for self propulsion); fresh orange juice and black coffee (Michael). We also threw in a serve of chips for good measure!

As we did have a full day yesterday, Maria has resigned herself to some earned rest so we return to the hotel and whereby I would continue into Oxford by the Red Bus in due course.

The day has improved weather-wise with the sun gleaming, so I don our trusty backpack, my hat, camera and set forth! Walking round to Banbury Road to the Sightseeing bus stop #16, the traffic is in full flow and chaotic - completely different from yesterday's Bank Holiday. The bus arrives and upon boarding I am pleasantly surprised to find my short journey accompanied by a 'live' guide whose name is Allan. Allan's repertoire of Oxford's history is informative and entertaining, his anecdotes are applauded by the genuine laughs from the passengers. Whenever the bus stops for traffic or lights, our guide fills these pauses with local trivia.

The bus finally arrives at my destination: stop # 4, Oxford Castle. We have seen and stayed in many castles during our journey so far, and many of those which have been impressive have been off the main roads, devoid of visitors and entry is gratis for all and one to enjoy. However, this is not the case with Oxford's castle. Regrettably, the remnants of this once imposing edifice has been consolidated to a precinct of income generation. Oh, well, bills do have to be paid...?

Leaving the castle precinct, I make my way towards Carfax Tower and which is considered to be the centre of the city. The name Carfax is derived from the French, carrefour or crossroads, and is located at the junction of St Aldates, Cornmarket, Queen and High Streets, Oxford. The tower is all that remains of the 13th century St Martin's Church and is now owned by the Oxford City Council. Standing at 74 feet high the viewing platform provides the visitor with a 360 degree vista of Oxford city and its array of towers.

Leaving Carfax I make my way to the old Bodleian Library and grounds. This precinct is an amazing collection of architecture and stained glass windows which reflect their surroundings. The magnitude of these remarkable buildings can be gauged by the expressions of the visitors. Heads looking upwards, with outstretched hands pointing and mouths agape.

Making my way to St Mary's Cathedral where its tower is available to visitors. The Cathedral is a testament to past benefactors and scholars with epitaphs dating from 1609! The architecture reflects Renaissance and Gothic styles with large stained glass windows. Paying the nominal fee of 2 pounds, I make the long a restrictive climb to the tower's viewing platform. If I was amazed at the view from Carfax, I was taken aback by the vista from St Mary's. This vantage point gave a birds-eye-view over the Bodleian and adjoining colleges.
My thirst for heights being slated, I return to ground level and continue my walk onto Catte Street, heading towards Cornmarket Street and the Covered Market.

The streets are full of tourists standing in groups peering over their maps of Oxford. Buskers ply their trade and filling the air with strumming and piping. Finally, I reach the Market which is an adventure in itself. This is an amazing collection of purveyors offering a variety of fresh produce under one roof. Passing a green grocer who displayed a selection of berries, so handing over the required payment I purchased a punnet of English strawberries and cherries. This fine purchase should make a handsome breakfast.

Saying farewell to this purveyor I make my way towards Broad Street to catch the red bus for home. The day started out with rain and concluded with sunshine and a memorable walking tour.

For dinner we went back in to the city to the Bangkok House, a Thai restaurant recommended by the lass at reception of the Linton Lodge. Nice, but not a touch on the Thai Orchid that we found the other day. We both agree that the tastes have been a little too 'westernised' (i.e. lots deep fried, and sweetened). We begin with a mixed starter and continue with mains - duck with cashew nuts, sweet and sour king prawns and mosamun curry all with steamed jasmine rice. Our deep fried banana with coconut served with caramel ice cream just continued the theme - nice enough if you were hungry, but not really authentic. Service however was good. By the time we get back to the Lodge after taking a few night shots it is after 11 pm. We are finding it hard to get used to ending the days so late!

Oxford - City of the dreaming spires

This morning is a little overcast with the weather forecast for 23°C and possible showers. After a nice but over-priced breakfast - £12.95 per person and everything was in bain maries with only fried or poached eggs cooked to order, we first caught up with Gen on Skype where I asked her to post some summer stuff to us. The only light top I have is the one I wore from Sydney!

Then it was in to town to get the CitySightseeing Oxford red bus! It did not take long for us to realise that the city, like many other university towns, exudes a beat that is very contagious. There are people everywhere - students, tourists and locals. Mind you, the fact that it is the Monday of a Bank Holiday weekend and a beautiful sunny day at that probably influences it a little!

Ah, Oxford the city of yellow limestone buildings, learning and - Morse. The first impression this city affords the visitor is a vibrant tremor which ripples throughout the city. Unlike other university cities we have visited the university IS Oxford city, impressed throughout like a perpetual signature. Apart from the hussle and bustle, there is certain element of calmness which made us feel very much at ease. We take one full route of the bus tour, soaking up the information and trivia that is thrown at us at every twist and turn of the bus. The commentary, while taped, is very thorough and a good mix of historic fact and interesting anecdote.

We had arranged to meet Elaine and Helen who we first met on the Isle of Islay in Scotland. They live here and have invited to spend a day with them in this, their home town. Despite the public holiday, the Parking Fairy is on duty and we get a parking space nice and close to the bus stop for the bus. We only have time for a once around before we go off to meet the girls. As we alight, we organise a swap for a two day pass, having decided to spend another night in Oxford. Thankfully the hotel has a vacancy and we can even keep the room we are now in.

We meet Helen and Elaine for a drink at the Eagle and Child pub (known locally as the Bird and Baby pub) - parking right outside! It's where Tolkein, CS Lewis and that crowd used to hang out. Helen came outside - they were a little worried they might not recognise us, until they saw the hat walk past - thank god we went back for it in Shannon! It was great to see the girls again and Helen tells us that it was here that 'The Inklings' - a group of Oxford writers met to test out their writings including The Lord of the Rings and the Narnia books.

After our drink Helen offered to take us on an 'insiders' tour of some of the Oxford University sights. As she works for the University, Helen could walk us in to a number of colleges that we could not have otherwise seen. From the pub we walked down Broad Street where we pass by Blackfriars Hall for graduate students - mostly in the area of theology. But our first venture into the world of the academically privileged came at Balliol College. When first you walk through the gate and in to the manicured lawns, beautifully kept gardens and stunning (absolutely stunning) buildings you walk from the hustle and bustle outside into a place of peace. The contrast is amazing. Exeter College has recently undergone a restoration project - and the new stone, while lighter in colour, are just as well made as the older stone. Hertford College while closed to the public was open to us thanks to Helen's pass. And students being students, ignored the 'Please keep off the grass' sign!

The architecture in Oxford is just amazing. The colleges, having successfully turned out model citizens, were often bequeathed funds for the construction of new buildings, meaning that as time has passed, these colleges have grown not only in size, but also in grandeur. And they are truly beautiful. At first, we were horrified to be shown graffiti on the quadrangel walls of these hallowed halls - but they commemorate wins at the Head of the River and are actually done in chalk (although they are still clearly visible from 5 and 6 years ago).

The Bodleian Library is the most amazing space. From its awe-inspiring exterior to the dignified quiet of the Divinity School that commands awe, respect and q-u-i-e-t. There are ceiling rosettes that recognize the contributions of library benefactors. It is just amazing. Students can't gain access into this cathedrals of libraries until they sign (they used to have to recite) the Pledge:
“I hereby undertake not to remove from the Library, or to mark, deface, or injure in any way, any volume, document, or other object belonging to it or in its custody; not to bring into the Library or kindle therein any fire or flame, and not to smoke in the Library; and I promise to obey all rules of the Library.”

We leave the colleges for a time and walk under the Bridge of Sighs modelled on the famous Venetian example before we squeeze (ok, a slight exaggeration) down St Helens Passage, winding our way through tiny back lanes to the Turf Tavern for lunch. With such a beautiful day at their disposal, it seems half the local population has found their way to this tavern that would never be found by tourists. This is a special place for Michael as this is the tavern that is the setting for many of the Inspector Morse episodes. Helen had a BLT for lunch while Elaine, Michael and I had salmon and Brie fishcakes. We all washed it down with Appletiser - a sparkling non-alcoholic apple juice and soda drink.

Our appetites well sated, we stroll down passed Trinity College with its impressive wrought gates allowing a glimpse into a very privileged world while at the same time keeping the outside world well and truly at an arms length.

There are lots of students walking and cycling in formal dress with different coloured flowers in their lapels. Helen explains that even though it is only Week 7, student exams are underway. Students all sit their exams in the Examination Schools Building and in full academic dress. Can you imagine that - not only is there the stress of the exams, but they have to get kitted up in the penguin suit! And the flower in their lapel denotes the year of their examination - white for first year exams, pink for the centre years and red for final (usually 3rd) year exams.

"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." - Ratty talking to Mole, from Kenneth Grahame's classic: "The Wind In The Willows.

The girls were giving us the quintessential Oxford experience so they then took us punting on the Cherwell River from The Cherwell Boathouse. Before we headed out Helen bought us Pims - when quizzed if this was a real English tradition, she laughed and said it is far more local than that - it is quite an Oxford drink! You should have seen the drama it took to get me in to the boat. There was a huge step down from the jetty to the boat, and it was in to something that moved further away from you as you got in, unsteadily. But evetually I was in, as was everyone else and we were off with Helen punting leisurely down the river.

About a mile down the river, Elaine took over and we continued on our merry way. At the turn for home, Michael took over and the girls could not believe what a natural he was. Must say, my man did look good as he stood above us and calmly poled us the whole way back to the docks. At one point we passed another punt where the woman punting was standing on the other end of the boat. I asked Helen if you could punt from either end and she commented (almost derisively) that that was the Cambridge way to punt - ah yes, university rivallry is alive and well!

Ha ha, if getting in was a drama, you should have seen me trying to step up out of that moving boat! But with lots of encouragement and ingenious (if not inelegant) moves, out I got. What a fantastic afternoon on the river with the ducks, oh, and the occasional other boat!

So to finish the day, we went a little way out of the City to a pub restaurant called The Trout Inn. This was another of Morse's favourite hangouts. It is located on the Isis river - part of the headwaters of the Thames River. They too are very busy and the girls tell us that it is busy - especially on weekends. The menu is varied and interesting. Helen and I begin with Mojitos - hers was a Royale (with champagne) and mine was a Raspberry Mojito with raspberry coulis and fresh raspberries - gosh, it went so well with lime! (Kamala and Carol - you gotta try it! That is, if you can get raspberries, he he he!) For starters we all shared Box Baked Camembert with Onion Jam and Breads and Greek Mezze with Taramasalata, Hummus, Tzatziki, Feta and Flat Breads.
Mains were:
Chargrilled Lamb Rump with Chorizo, Onions, Peas and Rosemary Potatoes (Michael and Helen)
Spit Chicken with Roast Garlic and Lemon Thyme Mayonnaise (Maria)
Spit Chicken Mushroom Forestiere (Elaine)
Desserts:
Plum and Apple Crumble (Michael)
Marshmallow Cheesecake with red fruits (Maria and Elaine)
Gosh the food was great, the setting fantastic and the company the best!!
As we said goodbye to Helen and Elaine outside the pub after 10:30 pm we did so in the raucous company of a peacock perched high on one of the chimney pots!

How cool - here we are in Oxford and as I type the blog, Inspector Morse is on TV - and it is set in Oxford! And the episode (The Wench is Dead) is about the boatmen - wow, we did that today!!!! And finally just before midnight, the showers predicted this morning have finally started! What a FANTASTIC day - thanks ever so much Elaine and Helen - and we are holding you to your promise to come and spend some time with us in Oz.