Back when my bones were warm . . .

So it is cooler. Heading for a maximum of 16 degrees. With a breeze.
And wet.  Again. 
But today it is wet enough to hinder some of the options of things to explore. 
Being a Saturday, it is also a later start for most of the attractions. We decide to head to the National Theatre stop and go to The Viking Planet, a relatively new attraction that only opened in June 2019.
From the comments on their site, most people seen to enjoy the experience.

As we enter Princengate, one of the four streets that bound this building, we can hear the music festival we saw them setting up for yesterday in full swing.  The band is on a stage inside a partially enclosed marquee, there are a few children playing on the playground that was constructed, but in the drizzle, everyone is hurrying by under umbrellas or a range of rain jackets, seemingly oblivious to the music. We are bound for the tram stop on the opposite corner, and like all the other people passing by, we do too.


It is only a couple of tram stops from where we are, and as we near, the rain lifts for a few minutes, allowing us to have a look at the statuary that is dispersed among the gardens of the National Theater.  Currently showing is Romeo and Julie(tte) and Alice in Wonderland.


Like many other areas within the City of Oslo, there are gardens and green spaces, filled with flowering beds.  In the centre of the square between the National Theatre and the Universitat buildings are formal and rather austere surrounded by lots of cobbled stones, but also with large tubs of flowers at regular intervals. Large brass statues are in every square and courtyard, no doubt notable scholars. And in pride of place is the Norwegian counterpart of Sydney's El Alamein Fountain!

We realise that we again are walking away from the area that we are wanting to visit. Google maps is a fail as far as using it for walking directions. I just wonder how much of it is because we are surrounded by large stone edifices.


Finally City Hall is ahead of us and we know that we are about to reach our destination. This is an imposing modern towering building and rather stark. And even though there are garden beds along the broad stepped raisers to the entrance, they seem lost against the brick and concrete.  The bells are ringing and we see a wedding party gingerly try to rush to waiting cars at the bottom of the steps in the again increasing rain.  But we are here to see something else - The Viking Planet which is across the crescent from City Hall.

You actually enter the building through the souvenir shop. There is a uniformity in the offerings at most of the museums here - not only in the basic choice of souvenirs, but also the prices - that is good.  And each attraction then also has a range of unique products, but again, at comparable pricing.
Tickets cost us just under AUD$50 each. We are not too phased at the cost and by the time we have finished our experience, we actually think that it is really good value for money. The staff are very attentive and eager to assist. They explain the basic concept and offer suggestions on the route through the attraction. I actually think that being a wet day has worked in our favour as there are not a lot of people here.  

We began with the Fjordr - the cinema taking us through more than 1000 years of history before setting the Viking life in the context of European history. 

Then came the highlight of the visit, the Longship Ambush - VR Cinema experience, told as a story being recanted to a youngster - and from where the title of this blog originates. As neither Donna nor I had ever used a VR (virtual reality) headset, the staff member made sure that we were well seated in the seats and the headgear correctly fitted before telling us to make sure to look all around us. Now, if this is the future of movie experiences, bring it on.  It was AMAZING. It is a 4D experience as the chairs move to adjust to the movement of the longboat on which we are 'seated'. We set out in the longboat on a raiding run and move from active rowing to gliding passed small settlements quietly across the water. 

At one moment, a huge whale surfaces right beside us and the rower straight ahead of us jumps up (too late) to grab his bow and arrow to fire at the whale. Let me tell you, as an archer, he makes a great oarsman!  This seems to be the pivotal point in the journey and now we are the subject of flaming arrows, some falling short, some overshooting the longboat and eventually, many making their target and the longboat begins to burn. As we reach near the end of the fjord, another longboat comes rushing in from the left and rams us with a bone-crunching crash that beaches our longboat. We are boarded and before long the entire crew is dead. We finish the experience a little 'exhausted'. This is a full immersion experience with the seats rocking and bucking and shaking at the appropriate moments.
We sit through it twice, and in the second sitting, you see so much that you miss the first time.  Obviously, with the headsets on and all the experience

happens quietly from the outside, there are no photos of this experience to share.

We work through the other exhibits in the centre - from the Hologram Theatre where we see life size depictions of 25 Viking characters with the implements of their daily lives, the building of a Viking boat, the creation of the Viking Volka (female shaman), take a Viking 'selfie' and finish up at the Sagascope - a 270 degree cinema experience that shows daily life in a Viking village

through to their murders in a raid, Viking winter explorers etc.

All in all an amazing 2.5 hours or so.

Venturing back in to the street, it is still raining so we opt for a late lunch/early dinner at the nearby Prima Fila Ristorante where we share a Marghuerita Pizza and Tagliatelle allo Scoglio with a glass of Prosecco each.
Back on the bus because it stops almost in front of the entrance door. Music has now stopped, so I guess you call that concert a wash-out.

We have re-packed ready for any earlier departure. Tomorrow we head for the coast in a 12 hour train, train, ferry, bus, train day between Oslo and Bergen which includes the scenic Flam railway. Just a little excited! 

Oxford - City of the dreaming spires

This morning is a little overcast with the weather forecast for 23°C and possible showers. After a nice but over-priced breakfast - £12.95 per person and everything was in bain maries with only fried or poached eggs cooked to order, we first caught up with Gen on Skype where I asked her to post some summer stuff to us. The only light top I have is the one I wore from Sydney!

Then it was in to town to get the CitySightseeing Oxford red bus! It did not take long for us to realise that the city, like many other university towns, exudes a beat that is very contagious. There are people everywhere - students, tourists and locals. Mind you, the fact that it is the Monday of a Bank Holiday weekend and a beautiful sunny day at that probably influences it a little!

Ah, Oxford the city of yellow limestone buildings, learning and - Morse. The first impression this city affords the visitor is a vibrant tremor which ripples throughout the city. Unlike other university cities we have visited the university IS Oxford city, impressed throughout like a perpetual signature. Apart from the hussle and bustle, there is certain element of calmness which made us feel very much at ease. We take one full route of the bus tour, soaking up the information and trivia that is thrown at us at every twist and turn of the bus. The commentary, while taped, is very thorough and a good mix of historic fact and interesting anecdote.

We had arranged to meet Elaine and Helen who we first met on the Isle of Islay in Scotland. They live here and have invited to spend a day with them in this, their home town. Despite the public holiday, the Parking Fairy is on duty and we get a parking space nice and close to the bus stop for the bus. We only have time for a once around before we go off to meet the girls. As we alight, we organise a swap for a two day pass, having decided to spend another night in Oxford. Thankfully the hotel has a vacancy and we can even keep the room we are now in.

We meet Helen and Elaine for a drink at the Eagle and Child pub (known locally as the Bird and Baby pub) - parking right outside! It's where Tolkein, CS Lewis and that crowd used to hang out. Helen came outside - they were a little worried they might not recognise us, until they saw the hat walk past - thank god we went back for it in Shannon! It was great to see the girls again and Helen tells us that it was here that 'The Inklings' - a group of Oxford writers met to test out their writings including The Lord of the Rings and the Narnia books.

After our drink Helen offered to take us on an 'insiders' tour of some of the Oxford University sights. As she works for the University, Helen could walk us in to a number of colleges that we could not have otherwise seen. From the pub we walked down Broad Street where we pass by Blackfriars Hall for graduate students - mostly in the area of theology. But our first venture into the world of the academically privileged came at Balliol College. When first you walk through the gate and in to the manicured lawns, beautifully kept gardens and stunning (absolutely stunning) buildings you walk from the hustle and bustle outside into a place of peace. The contrast is amazing. Exeter College has recently undergone a restoration project - and the new stone, while lighter in colour, are just as well made as the older stone. Hertford College while closed to the public was open to us thanks to Helen's pass. And students being students, ignored the 'Please keep off the grass' sign!

The architecture in Oxford is just amazing. The colleges, having successfully turned out model citizens, were often bequeathed funds for the construction of new buildings, meaning that as time has passed, these colleges have grown not only in size, but also in grandeur. And they are truly beautiful. At first, we were horrified to be shown graffiti on the quadrangel walls of these hallowed halls - but they commemorate wins at the Head of the River and are actually done in chalk (although they are still clearly visible from 5 and 6 years ago).

The Bodleian Library is the most amazing space. From its awe-inspiring exterior to the dignified quiet of the Divinity School that commands awe, respect and q-u-i-e-t. There are ceiling rosettes that recognize the contributions of library benefactors. It is just amazing. Students can't gain access into this cathedrals of libraries until they sign (they used to have to recite) the Pledge:
“I hereby undertake not to remove from the Library, or to mark, deface, or injure in any way, any volume, document, or other object belonging to it or in its custody; not to bring into the Library or kindle therein any fire or flame, and not to smoke in the Library; and I promise to obey all rules of the Library.”

We leave the colleges for a time and walk under the Bridge of Sighs modelled on the famous Venetian example before we squeeze (ok, a slight exaggeration) down St Helens Passage, winding our way through tiny back lanes to the Turf Tavern for lunch. With such a beautiful day at their disposal, it seems half the local population has found their way to this tavern that would never be found by tourists. This is a special place for Michael as this is the tavern that is the setting for many of the Inspector Morse episodes. Helen had a BLT for lunch while Elaine, Michael and I had salmon and Brie fishcakes. We all washed it down with Appletiser - a sparkling non-alcoholic apple juice and soda drink.

Our appetites well sated, we stroll down passed Trinity College with its impressive wrought gates allowing a glimpse into a very privileged world while at the same time keeping the outside world well and truly at an arms length.

There are lots of students walking and cycling in formal dress with different coloured flowers in their lapels. Helen explains that even though it is only Week 7, student exams are underway. Students all sit their exams in the Examination Schools Building and in full academic dress. Can you imagine that - not only is there the stress of the exams, but they have to get kitted up in the penguin suit! And the flower in their lapel denotes the year of their examination - white for first year exams, pink for the centre years and red for final (usually 3rd) year exams.

"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." - Ratty talking to Mole, from Kenneth Grahame's classic: "The Wind In The Willows.

The girls were giving us the quintessential Oxford experience so they then took us punting on the Cherwell River from The Cherwell Boathouse. Before we headed out Helen bought us Pims - when quizzed if this was a real English tradition, she laughed and said it is far more local than that - it is quite an Oxford drink! You should have seen the drama it took to get me in to the boat. There was a huge step down from the jetty to the boat, and it was in to something that moved further away from you as you got in, unsteadily. But evetually I was in, as was everyone else and we were off with Helen punting leisurely down the river.

About a mile down the river, Elaine took over and we continued on our merry way. At the turn for home, Michael took over and the girls could not believe what a natural he was. Must say, my man did look good as he stood above us and calmly poled us the whole way back to the docks. At one point we passed another punt where the woman punting was standing on the other end of the boat. I asked Helen if you could punt from either end and she commented (almost derisively) that that was the Cambridge way to punt - ah yes, university rivallry is alive and well!

Ha ha, if getting in was a drama, you should have seen me trying to step up out of that moving boat! But with lots of encouragement and ingenious (if not inelegant) moves, out I got. What a fantastic afternoon on the river with the ducks, oh, and the occasional other boat!

So to finish the day, we went a little way out of the City to a pub restaurant called The Trout Inn. This was another of Morse's favourite hangouts. It is located on the Isis river - part of the headwaters of the Thames River. They too are very busy and the girls tell us that it is busy - especially on weekends. The menu is varied and interesting. Helen and I begin with Mojitos - hers was a Royale (with champagne) and mine was a Raspberry Mojito with raspberry coulis and fresh raspberries - gosh, it went so well with lime! (Kamala and Carol - you gotta try it! That is, if you can get raspberries, he he he!) For starters we all shared Box Baked Camembert with Onion Jam and Breads and Greek Mezze with Taramasalata, Hummus, Tzatziki, Feta and Flat Breads.
Mains were:
Chargrilled Lamb Rump with Chorizo, Onions, Peas and Rosemary Potatoes (Michael and Helen)
Spit Chicken with Roast Garlic and Lemon Thyme Mayonnaise (Maria)
Spit Chicken Mushroom Forestiere (Elaine)
Desserts:
Plum and Apple Crumble (Michael)
Marshmallow Cheesecake with red fruits (Maria and Elaine)
Gosh the food was great, the setting fantastic and the company the best!!
As we said goodbye to Helen and Elaine outside the pub after 10:30 pm we did so in the raucous company of a peacock perched high on one of the chimney pots!

How cool - here we are in Oxford and as I type the blog, Inspector Morse is on TV - and it is set in Oxford! And the episode (The Wench is Dead) is about the boatmen - wow, we did that today!!!! And finally just before midnight, the showers predicted this morning have finally started! What a FANTASTIC day - thanks ever so much Elaine and Helen - and we are holding you to your promise to come and spend some time with us in Oz.

From the Liffey to the Mersey

We left Dublin today just as the weather is clearing. Forecast for today is sunny with the light cloud cover and the possibility of an occasional shower. Ain't life a bugger!

So we made the most of it by taking the Red Bus Tour of Dublin before we got the ferry. As we knew that our time would be limiuted, we drove into the City and parked in the same parking station as we had last night, almost in exactly the same spot! Only two spaces away in a very full car park - ooh how I love that parking fairy!

From here it was only a short walk through to the Tourist Visitor Centre where we bought tickets for the Red Bus Tour. Because we only had a few hours, they sold us discounted tickets that saved us €5 each - nice gesture to be sure, to be sure! The bus left from just around the corner and operated every 10 minutes - must have literally just missed one cos it took 12 minutes for the next one to get there. While waiting we watched a steady procession of Eco-Cabs pass us by - these guys must be fit. Can you imagine this in Brisbane where there are quite very steep streets in the inner city?!

It was a one-man travelling show on the bus with our driver Paddy negotiating the heavy traffic and providing a non-stop commentary as we went. We had commenced the tour part way through - at stop 8 and so he was in full swing - you know I don't think he stopped to take a breath once!

Like many European cities, Dublin was once a walled city full of narrow little lanes within where at times, two ladies with hooped skirts would have had trouble passing. And it was a small city of just 44 acres set within walls with 6 gates and 42 defensive towers. Why so many towers? Well, the Irish and the Vikings were not allowed to live within the city walls and tried regularly to burn it down. When Johnny was King, he built Dublin Castle partly to house the soldiers needed to protect the city as well as being a home for himself. There was at least one occasion when he had to pull his sword and engage the enemy himself!

St Patrick's Cathedral was a fortified cathedral because it was built outside the city walls. It housed a garrison of soldiers. Oliver Cromwell went to service in this church one Sunday and half-way through, stood up and condemned the Catholic idolatory and closed the church. He re-opened it a week later as a stable for the soldiers horses. The Cathedral is linked with some notable locals - Sir Benjamin Guiness (yes, of that family) paid for the restoration of the Cathedral as well as the establishment of St Stephens Green.
One Dean of the Cathedral was one Jonathan Swift - of Gulliver's Travels fame. He was also a sufferer of Ménière's disease which at the time was diagnosed as a psychiatric illness and so he was interred from time to time in the psychiatric hospital! On his death, he had bequeathed £7000 for the construction of a psychiatric hospital - it is now a hospital that treats alcoholics - ironically located within a couple of hundren metres of the Guinness Brewery!
Another Cathedral Dean was renowned for his lengthy sermons - as much as two hours long. He had a pulpit on wheels constructed so that he could be wheeled by altar boys up and down the aisles throwing the bible at the hapless parishioner who was unfortunate enough to fall asleep - and so we got the phrase "To throw the book at you".

Living outside the wall meant that you had some liberties - you did not have the protection of the City, so you paid no taxes! There were and still are a number of traders who hold very special trading licences. These licences allow them to trade on the streets - literally. They cannot be bought, but are handed down from mother to daughter in families. There is nothing special about what they sell - it is the stuff of everyday life - in fact the thing I saw most on sale were multi-packs of toilet paper! And they cannot open a shop or they must surrender their licence.

And then there was the Guinness Brewery. Old man Guinness was cunning - he negotiated a 9000 year lease for £80. We did not go in though as we had such limited time. There are seven floors of museum - not only of the Brewery but of its place in Dublin and indeed Ireland. They then talk of an 8th floor - this is the famous all glass Gravity Bar with its wonderful views across the City. Would have been a waste anyway with neither of us drinking the stuff that even the Irish concede is an acquired taste. But Paddy related his memories of the draymen leading their Clydesdales pulling vats of the brew on tray topped carts out from the brewery gates. As the horses walked over the cobbled inner streets, their shoes would send sparks into the air. They way he spoke of it, you could see the picture in your mind's eye! Just wonderful! And those draymen had a prized job - you see the perk was that they got two free pints at each pub they delivered to - would have made for an interesting trip once their round was finished.

Arthur Wellesley was born in Dublin. He went on to become the Duke of Wellington and Dubliners were rightly proud of their son. Through public subscription they began to construct what was to be the second tallest obelisk in the world in monument to him. Part way through the construction, while he was Prime Minister of England he was asked in parliament one day whether he was Irish. His reply? "Just because you are born in a stable does not necessarily make you a horse!" Understandably this pissed off the Irish and work stopped on the obelisk that day. It was completed to what stands today only because he left money afer his death to finish it. Funds were insufficient however and to today it is not complete. Serves him right!

Another site that I feel compelled to mention is the Croppies Acre. This field on the River Liffey just across from the CBD is the site of a mass grave. Some 1,500 to 2,000 young revolutionary soldiers are buried here. Most were pitch-headed (scalped) by turning a helmet of pitch onto their heads, letting it dry and then yanking it off, before being hung from the bridge to die. Who thinks of such bizarre and in-human tortures? Such a sad loss of young life - but then what war is any different?

Funny how governments are the same time over and world over. The planning arm here is called Dublin Limited. They had decided that they needed a new office and so in front of some pretty amazing examples of Georgian architecture, they planned to build a very new style building. But that was just the start. At the time of the excavation of the site, a full Viking village was discovered, complete with many thosands of artefacts. But, with the contempt of their office they 'gave'themselves permission to build over it. 34,000 Dubliners took to the street in protest - but they went ahead irregardless. So, although the artefacts were recovered, and Dublinia was built to house them (similar to the Jorvick Centre we went through in York - blog date 25 April 2009), the village in its setting was lost. Bloody government agencies.

And then we pass Trinity College. Chartered under Elizabeth 1 in 1593, this is set smack bang in the centre of the CBD which means that there are many thousands of young people rubbing shoulders with the professional set all the time - nice to see. Even though they were chartered under a Queen, they did not admit women until 1904 - the nerve!

So we leave Dublin with two very typical shots - the bronze statue of Molly Malone with the barrow - known locally as the 'dish with the fish' and the street filled with taxis - there is no uniformity to it. You buy a car, have it passed for roadworthiness, buy a taxi licence and go head to head for business with everyone else doing the same thing! No industry regulation here. Its a wonder that any of them makes a buck.

So we eventually get back to our starting point just before 2pm. Our ferry departure is due at 4pm and we must be at the Port by 2:30 pm, so we hurry back to the car park. In fact, I am writing this blog from aboard the Stena Nordica - our ferry from Dublin Port to Holyhead in Scotland. We were welcomed aboard by Captain Neil Humphrey just before we set sail. At the moment I am sitting in the Internet Cafe with the laptop plugged in to power and happily typing away while keeping myself busy enough to hardly notice the rocking of the boat! There are a couple of eastern European boys here with us who are playing music and tv programs very loudly and pissing the rest of us off - just asked them to turn it down - the rest of us don't want to listen to the drivel that one of them is listening to. Got most of the blog done for today and then went down to have a look at the on-board shop. Got a 1 litre bottle of Jamesons for £21.95 and some really nice choccies. So I'm set!

So we dock in Holyhead and are now back in familiar Scottish country with the pleasant memories of the time we spent time earlier in the area. In fact, we pass within 5 miles of Caerwys where we had a week in March. The boat has docked late and so we are now pushing against the clock to get to Liverpool within a decent time so the manager does not have to wait too long.

Famous last words. We were doing just dandy until we got into Liverpool city itself. And then it all went awry. Trouble with reading directions that have been developed before roadworks start and new buildings rise up from the ground! Tomorrow I am going to buy a Tom Tom - just not worth the stress any more!!!!! And we do not want to be involved in a homicide investigation.

We are in an apartment for the next two nights - it will give us a chance to do some washing. Not planning anything really hectic tomorrow - need a day of not driving. Might try to get a haircut and go to see Angels and Demons. Or we might try to go on the ferry trip we missed last time we were here.

Two days in York

Kitson, Garfield's cousin (you have to see him to appreciate his grand size), resides with the Livingstone family and tolerates their five dogs - primarily I think, because he has the total run of the house and everyone's emotions! Andrew and Joanne have made our stay a very pleasant one and had lots of suggestions for places to visit. With 11 rooms in the St Georges B&B, the semi-detached house is huge. They explain that their 3 bedroom apartment in is the basement area of the building.

The houses in St Georges Close are all large. Two doors down is a separate house that was until a few years ago a 17 bedroom B&B before being bought by the current owners who live in it with their two children who are at boarding school for much of the year. Sheesh can you imagine the cleaning? And hardly being used!! A little further up the street is another large house that was home to an elderly couple until the wife died recently. The man has now listed the house for sale - you can have it for a cool 2,500,000 - oh gosh hang on, that is £ so that makes it a cool $5,178,056.46 at todays exchange rate - and this is regional England!

We have had a very full two days taking in the best that York has to offer. While I stayed in yesterday nursing a hip that was sore after many stairs, Michael walked in to the City which is only about 1 mile from where we are staying. And then he just continued to walk - right around the City Walls that enclose the old town of York - that is 2 3/4 miles long.

To view the old town from the city walls is a sight which can only be experienced first hand; and the only way to fully appreciate a locality is by walking; from street level or in this instance from the walls.
The strategy in protecting the old town is evident when the battlements and parapets are followed. The old city of York was entered by passing through either four gates or 'Bars': Mickelgate Bar, Bootham Bar, Monk Bar and Walmgate Bar. Each of these gateways were further protected by a barbican, which is a fortified outpost or gateway enclosing a walled road called The Neck. During the Victorian era, sections of the city walls were demolished including three of the four barbicans, whereby the Walmgate still retains its fortification.

Anyhow from the vantage point on the walls, I was able to marvel at this city with a new perspective. I commenced my venture at the Mickelgate Bar, the interior being converted into a museum which gave a portrayal of life in these fortifications - defensive and corrections. In case of Mickelgate, a pedestal for displaying the severed heads of those unlucky souls with a Leftist persuation towards the monarchy!

After this illuminating lesson I continued my promenade along the wall towards Bootham Bar. The interior of this fortification had also been converted into a museum surrounding Richard III's involement into the murders of his sons. Being presented with both conclusions for the Defence and the Prosecution, I was left none the wiser. However, I was to discover the bartizans were used as cells and most unaccommodating at that, regardless one was provided with a gravity shute!

He went into places such as:

• the York Dungeon where he had the pants scared off him by local actors who retell the story of York with appropriate props,
• St Matthews Church with the best preserved medieval stained glass in the world,
• the remains of the once impressive St Mary's Abbey set in the Castle Museum grounds,
• the City Park with the Roman undercrofts and the last remnants of the roman fort that stood here almost before time began,
• the York Observatory where he is disappointed that it was not open and last but not least
• searched out Dick Turpins grave and found it in the grounds of St Georges Church - the only tombstone to be standing up where all others are lying down (why do we revere criminals??) and finished
• with a walk along the banks of the River Ouse to the York City Art Gallery. A huge day (but he is too jaded to elaborate on it all - thank god, I hear a number of people mumble!!)

And today we continued our exploration. We had set aside today to visit the York Minster - the largest gothic cathedral in northern Europe (only the Seville Cathedral - been there -is a larger gothic structure). Although it is raining lightly, we know that much of the day will be spent indoors, so it does not worry us. You enter through the south doors so that once inside, you are greeted by the sight of the huge and amazing northern window - known as the Five Sisters Window. Completed around 1260 AD, this amazing work is not as colourful as the rose window (also known as the marigold window for its yellow centre panels), nor quite as grand as the Great East Window. But for me, this was perhaps the most amazing due to its detail and very careful use of colour. It contains the largest amount of Early English 'grisaille' ('grey in background', the groundwork of this type of glass being greyish-white) glass in a single window, anywhere in the world. It has five lancets, each of which is fifty feet high and five feet wide, and contains more than 100,000 pieces of glass.

The great East Window is about to undergo a TEN year restoration project of the glass and stonework at a 2009 cost of £7,000,000. So over the space where the window should be is the world's largest digital photo - can't really do it justice though because it is 2D! Turns out that the glazier who made it took three years and was paid a total of £56! But in those days a horse valued at £1,000 today would cost £1.

There is just so much to see and describe here and it will bore most of you (not having seen it) so if you want more information - just click the link! But before we leave the cathedral it is worth saying that in the undercroft are the remains of an earlier Roman fort on top of which was built a Norman church and then much later, this Minster. (See the photo) You can't take photos here so I can't show you this amazing space. But in the minster above there are lots of early remnants such as bosses, the Chapter House that is 800 years old (which is amazingly well preserved being indoors), lots of stone carvings and tombstones - the oldest we found dates to 1585!

Michael took a walk on the high side and climbed the narrow stairs up the Bell Tower for some amazing views of the city and a very interesting perspective of the Minster itself and the grounds in which it is set.

Back on the ground, we head off from the Minster after a visit that lasted 4 hours for The Shambles. This is England's best preserved medieval street and at times is so narrow that you can easily shake hands with your neighbour across the way, just be extending your arm out the window. Down on the ground level, one of the shopkeepers was padlocking grilles to the front of his shops as he was closing for the day - multiple padlocks at that too. Sad indictment on society today we conversed.

We find chocolate and fudge makers that continue their trade much as it was ever done - and we indulge in some handmade chocolates - why not! Even though the day has remained wet, we have had a great one. The dampness continues with the welcome side effect that it keeps some of the growing number of tourists inside.

And so, we have a final meal at 'our local'. Could have tried somewhere new, but it is close to where we are staying, the food is fabulous and the company of the staff very pleasant. The Manager tells us that he is quite taken with the blog! We have noticed that there are a growing number of people who are looking at the blog regularly and as of this morning have 2358 hits with regular new users recorded. Seems like there is a world of people out there you might wish they were doing what we are. But honestly guys, these days it is more about getting it down so we can remember what we saw where - we get it so mixed up at times! Anyway our last meal at the Fox and Roman is as follows:
Entree:
That fabulous Whole Baked Camembert they do
Mains:
Grilled Sea Bass with parsley and lemon butter, seasonal vegetables and baby potatoes (Michael)
Luxury Seafood Pie (Salmon, king prawns, cod and smoked haddock in a light cream and wine sauces topped with cheese and potatoes) served with seasonal vegetables. As usual they do not disappoint.
Not hungry enough for dessert tonight - and we have those choccies to go back to ;-).

So as we are having our last breakfast at the St Georges B&B Andrew comes in and in all earnestness asks whether we have heard of the Swine Flu currently infecting people in the UK. "Yes", I said. "Well", he continued "I've heard that people are coming out in a rash with it. But don't worry - I've got some oinkment!" Takes all types of humour I figured as he laughed heartily and left the room chuckling with a funny sort of leaping walk.