Back when my bones were warm . . .

So it is cooler. Heading for a maximum of 16 degrees. With a breeze.
And wet.  Again. 
But today it is wet enough to hinder some of the options of things to explore. 
Being a Saturday, it is also a later start for most of the attractions. We decide to head to the National Theatre stop and go to The Viking Planet, a relatively new attraction that only opened in June 2019.
From the comments on their site, most people seen to enjoy the experience.

As we enter Princengate, one of the four streets that bound this building, we can hear the music festival we saw them setting up for yesterday in full swing.  The band is on a stage inside a partially enclosed marquee, there are a few children playing on the playground that was constructed, but in the drizzle, everyone is hurrying by under umbrellas or a range of rain jackets, seemingly oblivious to the music. We are bound for the tram stop on the opposite corner, and like all the other people passing by, we do too.


It is only a couple of tram stops from where we are, and as we near, the rain lifts for a few minutes, allowing us to have a look at the statuary that is dispersed among the gardens of the National Theater.  Currently showing is Romeo and Julie(tte) and Alice in Wonderland.


Like many other areas within the City of Oslo, there are gardens and green spaces, filled with flowering beds.  In the centre of the square between the National Theatre and the Universitat buildings are formal and rather austere surrounded by lots of cobbled stones, but also with large tubs of flowers at regular intervals. Large brass statues are in every square and courtyard, no doubt notable scholars. And in pride of place is the Norwegian counterpart of Sydney's El Alamein Fountain!

We realise that we again are walking away from the area that we are wanting to visit. Google maps is a fail as far as using it for walking directions. I just wonder how much of it is because we are surrounded by large stone edifices.


Finally City Hall is ahead of us and we know that we are about to reach our destination. This is an imposing modern towering building and rather stark. And even though there are garden beds along the broad stepped raisers to the entrance, they seem lost against the brick and concrete.  The bells are ringing and we see a wedding party gingerly try to rush to waiting cars at the bottom of the steps in the again increasing rain.  But we are here to see something else - The Viking Planet which is across the crescent from City Hall.

You actually enter the building through the souvenir shop. There is a uniformity in the offerings at most of the museums here - not only in the basic choice of souvenirs, but also the prices - that is good.  And each attraction then also has a range of unique products, but again, at comparable pricing.
Tickets cost us just under AUD$50 each. We are not too phased at the cost and by the time we have finished our experience, we actually think that it is really good value for money. The staff are very attentive and eager to assist. They explain the basic concept and offer suggestions on the route through the attraction. I actually think that being a wet day has worked in our favour as there are not a lot of people here.  

We began with the Fjordr - the cinema taking us through more than 1000 years of history before setting the Viking life in the context of European history. 

Then came the highlight of the visit, the Longship Ambush - VR Cinema experience, told as a story being recanted to a youngster - and from where the title of this blog originates. As neither Donna nor I had ever used a VR (virtual reality) headset, the staff member made sure that we were well seated in the seats and the headgear correctly fitted before telling us to make sure to look all around us. Now, if this is the future of movie experiences, bring it on.  It was AMAZING. It is a 4D experience as the chairs move to adjust to the movement of the longboat on which we are 'seated'. We set out in the longboat on a raiding run and move from active rowing to gliding passed small settlements quietly across the water. 

At one moment, a huge whale surfaces right beside us and the rower straight ahead of us jumps up (too late) to grab his bow and arrow to fire at the whale. Let me tell you, as an archer, he makes a great oarsman!  This seems to be the pivotal point in the journey and now we are the subject of flaming arrows, some falling short, some overshooting the longboat and eventually, many making their target and the longboat begins to burn. As we reach near the end of the fjord, another longboat comes rushing in from the left and rams us with a bone-crunching crash that beaches our longboat. We are boarded and before long the entire crew is dead. We finish the experience a little 'exhausted'. This is a full immersion experience with the seats rocking and bucking and shaking at the appropriate moments.
We sit through it twice, and in the second sitting, you see so much that you miss the first time.  Obviously, with the headsets on and all the experience

happens quietly from the outside, there are no photos of this experience to share.

We work through the other exhibits in the centre - from the Hologram Theatre where we see life size depictions of 25 Viking characters with the implements of their daily lives, the building of a Viking boat, the creation of the Viking Volka (female shaman), take a Viking 'selfie' and finish up at the Sagascope - a 270 degree cinema experience that shows daily life in a Viking village

through to their murders in a raid, Viking winter explorers etc.

All in all an amazing 2.5 hours or so.

Venturing back in to the street, it is still raining so we opt for a late lunch/early dinner at the nearby Prima Fila Ristorante where we share a Marghuerita Pizza and Tagliatelle allo Scoglio with a glass of Prosecco each.
Back on the bus because it stops almost in front of the entrance door. Music has now stopped, so I guess you call that concert a wash-out.

We have re-packed ready for any earlier departure. Tomorrow we head for the coast in a 12 hour train, train, ferry, bus, train day between Oslo and Bergen which includes the scenic Flam railway. Just a little excited! 

Today was Blue and White with a whole lot of love thrown in

This blog post relates to Tuesday 13 August (but was posted on 14th)

It was an interesting start to the day, hauling suitcases along the cobbled Overtoom Street in Amsterdam from the hotel to Europcar and all the time having to keep your wits about you in terms of avoiding the cyclists rushing at speed to work.


We were upgraded to a Renault Megane for the same price as the much smaller Yaris. Rather nice to have the extra space. As we leave Robby at Europcar, we ask for directions towards Delft and he says "turn right" but when we turn the GPS on, it wants us to do U-turn.  And of course,we do (after having to cross into the tram lane to pass the double parked Europcar tow truck!  A 'Uie' at traffic lights here, when you are in the car on the 'other side of the road' for the first time in years is a little daunting. And half a dozen blocks down the road, the road is shut for roadworks.  We lost about 20 minutes in and out of tiny back residential streets to get passed this.
Finally we are headed out of Amsterdam and towards the west-south to Delft. The journey will take just over an hour.They are transluscent and quite hard to take a good photograph of.

I'm more than little excited as Anne Blyth (Zenz) is flying in from London to have the day with us!  I haven't seen here since we went to her wedding in Germany two years ago. Rather than us negotiate the Amsterdam airport traffic, she will train it to Delft and we will collect her there. Anne's train is due in at 10:15 and we end up parking in what we thought was a quiet little shortcut to a new estate (road very poorly constructed) only to find that it is a major traffic route. As Anne walks on to the footpath, we pull up.

She is looking fabulous and has very generously got out of bed at 4 am to come and meet us. Hugs all round and a catch up on immediate family and friend news while we drive the short distance to the Royal Delft factory and museum. As none of us had had breakfast, we headed to the coffee shop for some brunch before we explored.  More chatting and catching up. Anne sends love to all and sundry back in Australia.

And then we are off. The museum is a beautiful history not only of the company that dates back to 1653, and the social history of Delft (and The Netherlands to a degree).  The displays are of a very high quality with much of the dialogue that describes the items and events not on board, but on tightly stretched, screen-printed very fine nylon panels.

The company employees are all very proud of the company that they work for and genuinely share their knowledge.  A piece of Delftware is made across three stages. The blank is cast in mould with liquid clay which, when dried is painted with a white glaze and then decorated with metal oxides, in particular the cobalt oxide that gives the usual blue, and can withstand high firing temperatures, allowing it to be applied under the glaze. Interestingly, that metal oxide is painted on black and only when it is fired, does the stunning blue emerge.  It takes 10 years to train one of the painters.  There were two working while we were there and they happily chatted with us all.

Royal Delft China was only for the wealthy during the Golden Age in the Netherlands in the 17th Century.  A comparison of the value is:

However, we soon learn that the real status symbol is having your portrait done in Royal

Delft.  This was the way to show your wealth and prosperity.  Even today, you can have your portrait painted on a plate.  Thankfully, i'm not that important, nor that vain!  There are lots and lots of examples - from guild groups to families and to individuals.
We wander through the museum and eventually in to the factory when we see staff fixing a problem with the clay sludge, lots of moulds, pieces in various phases of production and some special orders.

Back through the Company timeline and out into the souvenir shop. Be nice to me - I might have just bought a little something for you as a memento! I chose to have it shipped to Australia - no chance of me losing it, or breaking them.  I did make a little indulgence - one of the Proud Mary's.  I had looked these up before I left home.  Th only ones available now are the medium sized ones - they are stunning and the large one in the historic garden is so beautiful!

Anne must be on the 4:15 train at the lastest to make her flight connection back to London Stanstead. Before we drop her off at the station, we have a light lunch and toasted the friendships with a prosecco.  And finally it is time to say goodbye for the moment.  I will ever be grateful for the love she showed me by making the trip as she has to work

again tomorrow. She took home with her the obligatory Tim Tams and a copy of all the photos we took at her and Steve's wedding.

Donna and I had not yet decided where to stay tonight, and given the time, choose to drive across to Gouda (Gowda not Gooda).  We pull up in the carpark of the local McDonalds and made a booking at the Campanile Hotel Restaurant.  It is nothing fancy, but we really only need to put our heads somewhere for a night. Instead of going out to dinner, we decided to try their restaurant

and were so very pleasantly surprised.  Donna order a rare Rump Steak while I ordered Chicken Satay. Not only was the food as ordered, moist and tender, but young Victor was an attentive but not overbearing server.

A fabulous day of love.

An unexpected link to Maryborough

Again we sleep longer than we originally planned - one of the perks of being on holidays and in a fab bed!  We had planned to get up at 7:30 am, but Michael has set the alarm for 8:30 - ha ha ha - he never was a morning person!

A quick goodbye to Scooter just after 9:30 sees us head in to spend the morning giving Arrowtown some serious attention.  Scooter is originally from Europe and even she comments on the cost of living here. She and Grant have a small cottage that they are busily renovating and remodelling. Today she says it is valued at $1.4 million. And it is small - two bedrooms only. The airbnb room that we occupied is in a new built in area under the house.

Dating back to the mid 1800s, its main street is filled with the small original stores that graced it in its heydays when gold was being mined.  All of them re-purposed now of course. But still quaint and very twee.


We're off to 'Provisions of Arrowtown' a purveyor of all things local and foodie for breakfast.  Michael orders the big breakfast (of course), while I choose the Buckwheat Pancakes with grilled banana, blueberries and marscapone. And coffees of course. Those pancakes were as light as clouds and Michael's 3 eggs were poached to perfection. We are sitting in a back room, overlooking a Quince tree laden with growing fruits.


Once sated, we amble up the main street, stopping in at most of the shops. Some are surprisingly affordable, others not so - some of the merchants are really trying to make the most out of the many Chinese visiting the area.  And then we pause outside the local Sotheby's office (sure that gives you a hint!).  This property was the cheapest in their window! 

There are gold, jewellery, clothing, woollen goods, souvenirs, artworks shop that are interspersed with lots of eateries all doing a roaring trade.  The really noticeable thing here is that everyone from the young ladies in the Visitor Information Centre, to the sales staff in the shops and the wait staff all treat their visitors with open willing friendliness, whether you are buying or browsing. It is really noticeable and contributes to a wonderful warm feeling all through town. And because everyone is so friendly, all the visitors and smiling. And spending!!  If only we could bottle it and shake it all over home.

Arrowtown had its birth in the 1860s when the push to mine gold from the Arrow River was at its peak.  The original buildings in the main street have continued to evolve into the retail and service offerings of today.  And just like in Australia, where there was gold, came the Chinese.  The first orientals in the area didn't assimilate and created their own little village in the back streets towards the river and much to the annoyance of the European traders, the Chinese even set up their own shops.

Once the gold mining stopped being commercial, the town faded into the backdrop, meaning that there are still more than 70 historic sites remaining. In the 1950s there was a resurgence of interest in the area as a holiday destination. It is less than an hour to the summer friendly Lake Wanaka and even closer to the winter ski fields.

We were lucky to be wandering around today as the local farmers market was on in the local park. Cheeses, salmon, cured meats, fresh fruits, baked goodies - a foodies heaven. But we were also unlucky. We were putting some purchases in the car when I put the keys down to move a bottle of water. Promptly shut the boot and the car automatically locked. With the keys still inside.  A bad design flaw in the Ford Focus if you ask me. An hour later and $160 poorer, the local AA man has us back in the car.


And now to the link with Maryborough.  Sister (now Saint) Mary McKillop came to Arrowtown 20 years after she had set up the first catholic school in Maryborough, where she also set up a school for the local children.  Funny the things that link us across the waters, isn't it.

And locally, Irene S and Ann C both asked whether the lolly shop still exists.  We can happily report that yes it does, and it is still doing a roaring trade of old favourites and new offerings.

It is now early afternoon and we hit the road to head for Queenstown - about 25 minutes away.  And while the day was a cool summer day in Arrowtown, as we get closer to Queenstown, the weather also is closing in with lots of clouds again rolling down the mountainsides.  Donna had said that one of the must does here is the Gondola to the top of Bob's Peak.  St Frances is with us again as we get a car park about 100 m from the entry as another can pulls out.  The rain is beginning as we leave the car.  We manage to get into our gondola and up the mountain in just very light rain, so get one reasonable photo on our way up the VERTICAL mountain.  But by the time we peak out at the top, the rain has set in. 

We sit with coffees and wonder at the sanity of people who race the luges in the rain, but even more so, to the mountain bike riders who pay up to $900 for an annual pass to ride the gondolas up just to plunge down the mountain side - the very steep mountain side - even in the rain, and as we are told later, even in the snow!

We hang around for an hour or so hoping for clearer weather, but it is not to be, so we head back to ground zero thinking we might catch a movie - but can't find the cinema, so we head for Mossburn for the night.  A couple of reasons we chose here - it is on the road to Te Anua and Milford Sound, and it happened to have a vacancy - many places are still fully booked. The entire drive along what must be stunning scenery with towering hills and deep gorges along the length of Lake Wakatipu. Today however, through the veil of water they are merely shadows and outlines.  Not fair.

And finally I am gobsmacked at the large number of sheep (and cattle) that they farm per hectare here. Without a word of a lie, there were about 1,000 sheep on a 3 - 4 hectare block.  The rain isn't worrying them, what with their greasy wool coats.  The cattle on the other hand huddle in tight lines at the most protected parts of their paddocks - hides are not so waterproof!

We pull in to the carpark at the Mossburn Railway Hotel to check in and have dinner just before 7pm.  The rain continues and the temperature has plummeted.  The hotel is dry and warm with a roaring fire going. Drinks and dinner ordered and done, we head across the road to their new accommodation units - Wheels and Reels. 
My crumbed Blue Cod was delicious and Michael loved his Fisherman's Basket complete with mussels and scallops!

There is or was another link with home here - up until the 1970s there was a combined rail and road bridge over the Oreti River - very similar (although not as high) as our Dickabram Bridge!

Tomorrow promises to be clear and warm and we are hoping to do a day cruise to  Doubtful Sound - quieter and less crowded than Milford Sound.

Canterbury Tales and family connected

The morning sunshine heralds a beautiful day ahead - well, at least for the next two hours. We amble downstairs for breakfast where we are greeted by Tim...ah, he is the relief Chef. Austin has today off and after the incredible dinners he has prepared for us, we forgive his absence. However, Tim prepares our hot breakfasts, presenting me with two gloriously poached eggs and Michael a hearty 'full English'!

With breakfast out of the way, we make our way onto the main street to watch the scheduled Rememberence Day March prior to the service. And I stress here the march and service were scheduled. It's 10:35 so I make my way to the church, while Michael heads down to the High Street in readiness for the march. I wait and wait at the church, 10:40 has passed when the march was to commence - but, there are no sounds of a band or presence of the local Constabulary. Anyhow, Michael returns just as perplexed stating that "there's nobody around for the parade?". It is somewhat of a mystery as Michael had asked at the post office earlier about details of the parade, and was told the ceremony was to commence at 10:40.... Anyhow, we entered the church and paid our respects to the fallen in our own quiet way.

We admire the church's architecture and fixtures. It is indeed a wonder at the history of many of Englands' houses of worship, and here at St Mary the Virgin is no exception. There is a list of all the Vicars, Rectors and Provosts who have ministered at this church from 1228 to the present. Within the churchs' eastern transept is a monument commemorating a family of note - the Oxinden's - the monument was erected in 1682! And in the true spirit of christianity, the Anglican Parish shares its church with the local Catholics who celebrate Mass here each Sunday.

Time is marching on so we return to the Dog Inn to get the car and head for Canterbury. Now, the Dog Inn is one of two once identical buildings that stand side by side on the road from Wingham to Canterbury - and they date back to 1286! By this time the clear skies become shrouded by clouds, and no sooner are we on our way it is evident that rain is imminent. Canterbury is only seven miles (11 kms) from Wingham and we travel along the narrow roads which ribbon through the countryside.

Arriving at Canterbury our first stop is at the ruins of Canterbury Castle, and although the rain has begun to drizzle, this does not stop us from exploring this celebrated monument. After the Battle of Hastings in 1066, William the Conqueror marched hastily through Kent to Canterbury. In October 1066, Canterbury was the first town to submit without resistence. To consolidate his power, William ordered the construction of royal castles at Dover, Canterbury and Rochester. These castles were initially built from timber upon the 'motte-and-bailey' configuration and only much later the castles were rebuilt in stone.

All that remains of the castle today is a section of the perimeter wall and the keep. However, in the 'minds-eye', one can visualise the enormity of the structure. Eventually rebuilt with three storeys and enclosed within a bastion wall, the importance of the castle diminished by becoming overshadowed by Henry II's larger fortification at Dover. Regrettably, Canterbury Castle was relegated as the a prison for the County of Kent administered by the Sheriff and in the most recent times lost a lot of its mystique when it was used as a coal store and gas works.

The rain has begun to fall in earnest, I return to the car and leave Michael to continue drooling for a while longer. Want to kow more? Click here.

When Michael finally returns, we leave the castle to find a carpark closer to the Canterbury Cathedral. After wanting me to drive through restricted areas, and us having to continually turn back, Kate and Frances eventually guide us to an available parking bay at the city walls, which is not far from the Cathedral. Feeding the ticket dispenser gives us a maximum stay of three hours and so we set off to see what we can see. Walking through the streets of Canterbury is like entering a time portal, with buildings dating from the 13th century occupied by artists, artisans and bakers displaying their wares in shop windows. Michael is enjoying the ambience as he is swept along by the imagery of his beloved Canterbury Tales.

Finally we arrive at the Cathedral precinct, and enter the precint's main portal at a cost of $13AUD each. However, the entry fee is worth every cent as the Cathedral is indeed a magnificent structure. I'll let Michael take over from here, so he can enlighten you...or put you to sleep?

I am just passionate over medieval architecture, in particular places of worship - moreso if the style is Gothic, Perpendicular Gothic or Gothic/Renaissance. At the danger of me rambling, may I recommend this link for the Canterbury Cathedral.

As with most of these monuments built before the Reformation, one has to remember that the pioneering architects/engineers designed the buildings on parchment and only aided by quadrants, line-of-sight and plum bobs! The work of the masons, sculptors, scriveners and carpenters who contributed to the Cathedrals' construction is truly mind-blowing.

The Cathedral was filled by visitors and a small company of proud volunteer guides who were most eager to answer, with enthusiasm, any question pertinent to their Cathedral. I soon discovered the knowledge which these guides possess, when I made enquiry as to one of the stained glass windows. Only several of these windows are original from the 12th century, which somehow were spared from the destructive force of the Reformation!

Fortunately, photography was permitted ( except when visiting the crypt) so the camera worked overtime snapping images of the exterior and interior. The Cathedral also boasts its own 'Compass Rose' installed into the floor of the central nave in 1988. As with most Cathedrals, at intervals throughout the day a benediction is given by a member of the clergy. Today was no exception, as a Friar (with the aid of a PA system) requested everyone to stop and listen to the benediction - a time for reflection whatever ones persuasion...yes, even for us non-believers.

We could have spent further hours here - it is such a fascinating place. It was here that Thomas Beckett was murdered, and that the first French Hugenot service was held here hundreds of years ago and continues to this day! There are amazing stained glass windows, a beautiful cloister and chapter house, a peaceful crypt where you can see the remaining pillars and wall of the Norman church that once stood on this site and dates back to 579 AD. There are tanglible links with Australia too in the form of stitched kneelers int he front row and a memorial to Lt. Col Sir George Gipps, Governor in Chief of New South Wales. And today, on Rememberence Day when we were reading in The Times this morning about the release of the records of the British Flying Aces including Major Edward Mannock VC, here we are standing in front of his memorial! Its a small, small world.

Gosh, and there was so much more - you had better check the link before I too carried away! From here you exit through the souvenir shop where we stop to buy a few small reminders - we have to be careful because we are getting very very close to our weight limits for the air trip home!

Michael wants a quick look at the City Walls so I return to the car while he makes a dash for the stairs. The walls are surprisingly intact, and yet are now a part of the modern city. Traffic enters through a number of the original gates, the Dane John gardens dating back to the 12th century and has existed in their present form since 1790 and have recently been updated to include a thematic chidren's maze. A monument now stands atop a Roman burial ground that existed before the construction of the city walls in the 3rd century and now serves as a vantage point for views across the city.

I pack away the souvenirs we bought and get some little treasures out for Anna and Gary then get in the car and programme Kate. And that is when I see a traffic warden making his way towards our car, checking wether parking tickets have expired - and in response Michael is running full pelt from the other direction. Michael manages to get here first. Just! Mind you, we still had 1 minute left on our ticket!

Its 4 pm and fast heading for dark when we leave Canterbury for Bracknell to have one last visit with Anna and Garry, Curtis and Nathan. Its a two hour drive on the M26 - one of the major ring roads around London. Traffic is heavy as we are just coming in to rush hour, but for the most part we are able to do a respectable 70 miles per hour. I have reset Kate to measure in miles - can't be bothered with all the constant calculations from km to miles and back again. Feels odd though and my perception of distance is not so good - luckily for me, 100 yards is close enough to 100 metres and I can judge that pretty well!

We arrive at their house in Binfield just after 6:15. There is great excitement all round - Anna has kept her job (when all 6000 were given notices re planned redundencies for 1500 and no assurances), they have sold their house to a cash buyer and their offer on the house of their dreams just up the road has been accepted - all in the space of about 3 days! We took the champers!! Gary has picked up McDonalds for the boys and once they are settled upstairs, we order Chinese and spend a couple of hours sharing it and the stories of our respective highs since we last saw them in June. It has been lovely sharing a bit of time with them this year. Its heading for 10 pm when we finally say our goodbyes for the year and head off.

Our trip back to Wingham is much quieter than the trip over. We are able to travel at a constant speed and make the trip in about an hour and a half - even if it is in and out of light rain!