Friendly locals give us lots of tips

Anne at the Mossburn Railway Hotel had suggested the trip to Doubtful Sound and when we went over for a nip after returning from Milford Sound yesterday, we shared a table briefly with Gerard.  He is a former dairy farmer, who now drives livestock trucks and in his other life shows dogs with his wife and loves to surprise her with little getaways - like to see the Lupins in bloom.  A real diamond in the rough! He and Michael got talking about planes.  And all of a sudden, the rest of our trip could be planned around any number of air museums. Gerard also had a number of other suggestions like routes to follow. Unfortunately, we won't have enough time to do it all!



So this morning we head off from Mossburn and head south towards Invercargill planning a couple of stops in between.  The landscape has changed quite a bit - it has mellowed from the big rocky hills to more mature, weathered and flattened lush farmlands.  Sure there are still hills in the background, but the are rounded and rolling. The 'long white cloud' is still visible and now I get the meaning for New Zealanders

- each day starts and ends with the cloud.  Its like it wraps the landscape daily, keeping it secure for the new day's dawning. 

I make a quick toilet stop in Lumsden where Michael spies my namesake street!

The views are more pastoral with everything that comes with that - roadside mailboxes, cattle underpasses between milking shed and pastures, amazing fir tree hedges that provide windbreaks to the fields. Field after field of swedes grown as feed for the sheep. And those delightful bucolic smells.

The first planned stop is at the Croydon Aviation Heritage Museum at Mandeville.  The GPS takes us via an unplanned detour - as they sometimes have want to do. Funnily, it detoured about 1.6 kms from the museum! Travelled an extra 40 kms!!
Once back on the highway we turn one last corner to then view the museum.

The Croydon Aviation Heritage Museum is a homage to the biplane with not one, not two, not three but FOUR tiger moths!

(Michael)  This a 'flying' museum, with each of the exhibits bearing an airworthy clearance. However, there are a couple of the exhibits which are undergoing restoration to full airworthiness. 

The museum demands thorough investigation to fully appreciate the decades of effort injected to maintain this caliber of excellence. The aircraft are dutifully maintained and the flying hours carefully husbanded. The care and attention taken gives the impression that the aircraft have just emerged from the factory floor. Most of the aircraft are a representation from the De Havilland and Auster stables. Albeit, there are aircraft from contemporary eras as well, such as an Aermacchi M-346 and a Pitts S-2A two seater. Other aircraft from specialised interests includes a reproduction of the 1910 Pither monoplane, whereby making its inaugral and only flight in 2010. The other is a homebuilt, an Williams Mk4 Microlight constructed and flown in 1991. 

Visitors are given a treat of gaining access to the maintenance hanger where repairs, reconstructions and complete rebuilds are effected. Upon entering this hanger, the aroma of wood, sawdust and glue is like a sweet smelling bouquet. As I was standing in awe, I noticed at one end of the hanger a recognisable cigar shaped fuselage of a typical monocoque construction and the familiar De Havilland rudder. I enquired from one of the fuse techs as to the identity of this mystery work in progress. A mystery in progress indeed, as the tech said that they are in the process of building a replica De Havilland DH 88 Comet racer. I stood in absolute silence, as it was further revealed the project is expected to be completed in five years. This time frame is dependent upon sourcing the original Gypsy 6R engines. Apparently, attention to detail is paramount.

Recovering sufficiently, I left the hanger and made my way to the museum and my Maria.

I must admit - I was truly p*ssed off when Michael asked whether he could go up on a flight only to be told no, there was no flying today. They are working on a restoration for an owner that wants it asap. They advertise flights available and are obviously happy to forgo not a small flying fee. One would think that any aficionado would understand a visitor from afar, a yearning and make it possible. Not a good leaving feeling guys.


From here it is a short drive to the next town of Gore.  The Gore Visitor Centre and Museum is a homage to the history of the area with some very interesting displays. It centres on the every day with home and commerce exhibitions filled with the familiar and not so known items.  Not dissimilar to our Brennan and Geraghty's Museum at home.  There is a section devoted the the local history of Scouting - another parallel with our home lives and how the movement featured in the advertising for the local cereal brand!

This centre is also the home of the Hokonui Moonshine Museum that explains the links with Scotland (more than once we have drawn parallels with Scotland in the scenery down here) and Scottish settlers - with the stills and the whiskey recipes that they brought with them and the ingenious ways they beat the temperance movement during the 50 odd years of prohibition.  Very interesting and the wee dram sampled at the end while not as smooth as its aged cousins from the motherland was definitely very drinkable!

A quick trip across the road to the Eastern Southland Gallery was a real eye opener. No photos obviously as it is an art gallery.  There are three displays - the John Money Wing and Ralph Hotere Gallery and in the temporary space is an exhibition of Rod Eales works.  John Money was the patron of both the artists and his amazing collection of artefacts - mainly carvings - from across the world is stunning.

The it is on to Invercargill for the night and tomorrow.  We are booked in to the historic Victoria Railway Hotel that once upon a time sat across the street from the railway station that is now a YMCA centre.  We venture into town looking for a dinner restaurant. The town is tired and a little grubby with lots of vacant commercial shops.  The local Council is busy replacing stormwater in the CBD, again links with home lol.

In the end we settle on a Pinch of Spice - an Indian restaurant that turned out to be a great choice.  It was spotless, the service very attentive and the food wonderfully tasty.

We began with a Tandoor tasting plate of chicken, lamb kabob, fish and prawns and followed that with Chicken Chettinad and Beef Rogan Josh served with Basmati rice and a roti and a paratha.  Delicious!

Off to plan the next couple of days now - our time is flying by!

The day that almost wasn't

Last night we came back to our room to book for Doubtful Sound.  Only we can't.  Surely both operators can't be fully booked out? Surely.  And then we are watching the local news and learn that there has been a major slip on the road that goes over the Wilmot Pass after 330 mm of rain in two hours yesterday.  Last night, 400 tourists were airlifted off

the mountain, well into the night!  And another 90 hikers from the Milford walking track when a stream rose 9 m.
Many people had suggested that the Doubtful Sound cruise was better than the Milford Sound one because of the extended trip - by boat from Lake Manapouri, then by coach over Wilmot Pass and on reaching Deep Cove, by catamaran for a three hour cruise that takes in the most dramatic scenery of Doubtful Sound.

However, the next trip is Thursday and even that is not a given and very dependent on the road being able to be cleared. So instead we look to book for Milford Sound.  And many of these tours are fully booked too - crikey! We manage to book a tour with Real Journeys departing at 1:45 pm. Not so bad as it is a three hour drive from Mossburn to Milford.


The hotel does not serve breakfast, and suggests the Dome Cafe around the corner.  We settle in to eggs bennie for Michael and poached eggs for me along with large coffees at 7:45.  We head off from Mossburn having prepared with the Bushmans (midges are well known at the Sound), some fruit and warm jackets.  Despite the weather forecast being for 22 degrees and sunny, it is raining and cool as we leave.  We join the road out of town

behind two coachloads of people - the first of many that we see today.

As we drive down, catching little glimpses of the sun high on the slopes, we wonder again at the forces of nature that can sculpt and create such magical landscapes. This part of the country is heavily grazed. If we thought that we saw a lot of sheep in a paddock yesterday, then it was nothing!  There was at least 1,000 sheep in one hectare. Seriously. And cattle and deer loads are heavy too.  Guess that with great rainfall and supposedly good weather (from time to time) the forage crops grow quickly.  There is certainly plenty of bales of hay around.

The vegetation is really interesting - from red tussocks, to small shrubs, to the occasional eucalypt in the dry sclerophyll forest and forest after forest of firs.  The tree line is really evident as we travel down the slopes into the Fiordland National Park and as the sky gets bigger with the huge stone cliffs, even the grasses and tussocks give up, leaving the rock to mosses, lichens and the odd fern or two.  Turns out that there is even rainforest down in the pockets, complete with ferns and vines and palms. 

Once we are on the southern side of the slopes, the weather magically clears - there is nary a cloud and the sun is beaming down like a real summer day.  Just. Magical.  And the scenery all of a sudden turns even more stupendous - if that is possible. 
There is a heap of traffic both in front of us and coming towards us. And there are many of them who have absolutely no idea how to drive in mountains. The average speed is 70 kph, although there are stretches on the flats that go up to 100 kph.  Corners are advisorily signed between 45 and 75 kph.  But the Asians do 20 kph. At every corner. Without fail. Makes for a frustrating drive.  There are plenty of signs that proclaim 'New Zealand roads are different.  Allow more time.'   From Mossburn to Milford Sound is only 176 kms but we were told by Tracey at the Mossburn Railway Hotel to allow 3 hours.  And it takes 3 hours almost to the minute.  Michael took photos from the car on the forward journey, knowing that there would be time to stop at the various vantage points on the way back.

The Milford Road is claimed to be the most scenic road in New Zealand and we are in no position to argue against that as it sure is a stunning drive.

Yet the whole trip down, behind some very nervous drivers, I cannot but wonder just where it was that Inga and Markus very nearly came to grief on their drive down this road some years ago.

We arrive at Milford Sound exactly as planned.  The literature says to plan for it to take 45 minutes to an hour to park your car, but St Frances continues to sit on my shoulder as a car pulls out in the closest car park as we arrive.  I'll never win the lottery,
but I'll always have a car park!  A 300 m walk to the terminal brings us in just before the 12:15 boat is about to leave, and as it is not fully booked, the staff agree to transfer us to this earlier departure.

There are only about 100 people on the Milford Monarch which is licensed to carry about 450, so there is plenty of space and moving room. We head out under the guidance of Captain Mack who provides just enough commentary to keep you informed without it being overbearing - there is plenty of silence broken only by the sound of the quiet engine, the waves and the birds to sit in awe looking skyward. And the sound of waterfalls.  There are only two permanent waterfalls into the Sound, but after rain like yesterday there can be hundreds of temporary falls.  We are even invited to claim a bit of

immortality by naming one of them today - so please see the M&M Falls!
Milford Sound is wettest place in New Zealand and records a massive 17 metres of rain a year.  Not a real problem until they get 330 mm in 2 hours!  There is quite a bit of debris in the Sound today, courtesy of that rain.  About 9 metres below the fresh water that feeds into the Sound from rain and snow-melts lies the salt water that comes in from the Tasman Sea.  As the fresh water is less dense than the salt water, it just sits atop and the waters never mix -isn't nature wondrous!

At the Bridal Veil Falls you can trace the Pembroke Fault line that runs all the way up the mountain and is responsible for 187 known earthquakes.

The Stirling Falls are very pure and provide the township of Milford with its water supply and also feeds a small hydro-electric power station to provide power.

Milford Sound is one of only two places in the world where in a commercial operation you can easily see a glacier from sea level- here you looking through Harrison Cove through the rainforested Harrison Valley up to Mt Pembroke with the Pembroke Glacier.  The other place is Patagonia in Argentina.

We see lots of birds, juvenile fur seals and very briefly a shy penguin - he was too quick for a photo.  All too soon we are docking back in the harbour and ready to hit the road again.

The trip back is much slower as we stop at almost every one of the many photo opportunities to capture these amazing views.  Can't fit them all here - so come on round when we get home if you want to see more. Our young waitress on the boat, Melissa suggested that we musn't miss the Mirror Pools (too windy for the effect by now) and the Te Anau Glow Worms that Donna also recommended.  Trouble is that they are at the start of the Doubtful Sound and so, there is no way we can get to them today either - maybe next trip!

There is a huge Chinese influence here also,so we opt for an early dinner in Te Anau and stop in at the Ming Garden restaurant conveniently located in Wong Way (true!) for a tasty meal.  Much of the restaurant is devoted to banquet tables - there are least 20 set for up to 20 people and there are a number of Chinese eating here.  Good omen and good food.

Back to the Mossburn Railway Hotel to do some washing and to have a wee dram to warm up while we do the blog.

Off to Mandeville tomorrow - another day that will thrill the boys!!!

An unexpected link to Maryborough

Again we sleep longer than we originally planned - one of the perks of being on holidays and in a fab bed!  We had planned to get up at 7:30 am, but Michael has set the alarm for 8:30 - ha ha ha - he never was a morning person!

A quick goodbye to Scooter just after 9:30 sees us head in to spend the morning giving Arrowtown some serious attention.  Scooter is originally from Europe and even she comments on the cost of living here. She and Grant have a small cottage that they are busily renovating and remodelling. Today she says it is valued at $1.4 million. And it is small - two bedrooms only. The airbnb room that we occupied is in a new built in area under the house.

Dating back to the mid 1800s, its main street is filled with the small original stores that graced it in its heydays when gold was being mined.  All of them re-purposed now of course. But still quaint and very twee.


We're off to 'Provisions of Arrowtown' a purveyor of all things local and foodie for breakfast.  Michael orders the big breakfast (of course), while I choose the Buckwheat Pancakes with grilled banana, blueberries and marscapone. And coffees of course. Those pancakes were as light as clouds and Michael's 3 eggs were poached to perfection. We are sitting in a back room, overlooking a Quince tree laden with growing fruits.


Once sated, we amble up the main street, stopping in at most of the shops. Some are surprisingly affordable, others not so - some of the merchants are really trying to make the most out of the many Chinese visiting the area.  And then we pause outside the local Sotheby's office (sure that gives you a hint!).  This property was the cheapest in their window! 

There are gold, jewellery, clothing, woollen goods, souvenirs, artworks shop that are interspersed with lots of eateries all doing a roaring trade.  The really noticeable thing here is that everyone from the young ladies in the Visitor Information Centre, to the sales staff in the shops and the wait staff all treat their visitors with open willing friendliness, whether you are buying or browsing. It is really noticeable and contributes to a wonderful warm feeling all through town. And because everyone is so friendly, all the visitors and smiling. And spending!!  If only we could bottle it and shake it all over home.

Arrowtown had its birth in the 1860s when the push to mine gold from the Arrow River was at its peak.  The original buildings in the main street have continued to evolve into the retail and service offerings of today.  And just like in Australia, where there was gold, came the Chinese.  The first orientals in the area didn't assimilate and created their own little village in the back streets towards the river and much to the annoyance of the European traders, the Chinese even set up their own shops.

Once the gold mining stopped being commercial, the town faded into the backdrop, meaning that there are still more than 70 historic sites remaining. In the 1950s there was a resurgence of interest in the area as a holiday destination. It is less than an hour to the summer friendly Lake Wanaka and even closer to the winter ski fields.

We were lucky to be wandering around today as the local farmers market was on in the local park. Cheeses, salmon, cured meats, fresh fruits, baked goodies - a foodies heaven. But we were also unlucky. We were putting some purchases in the car when I put the keys down to move a bottle of water. Promptly shut the boot and the car automatically locked. With the keys still inside.  A bad design flaw in the Ford Focus if you ask me. An hour later and $160 poorer, the local AA man has us back in the car.


And now to the link with Maryborough.  Sister (now Saint) Mary McKillop came to Arrowtown 20 years after she had set up the first catholic school in Maryborough, where she also set up a school for the local children.  Funny the things that link us across the waters, isn't it.

And locally, Irene S and Ann C both asked whether the lolly shop still exists.  We can happily report that yes it does, and it is still doing a roaring trade of old favourites and new offerings.

It is now early afternoon and we hit the road to head for Queenstown - about 25 minutes away.  And while the day was a cool summer day in Arrowtown, as we get closer to Queenstown, the weather also is closing in with lots of clouds again rolling down the mountainsides.  Donna had said that one of the must does here is the Gondola to the top of Bob's Peak.  St Frances is with us again as we get a car park about 100 m from the entry as another can pulls out.  The rain is beginning as we leave the car.  We manage to get into our gondola and up the mountain in just very light rain, so get one reasonable photo on our way up the VERTICAL mountain.  But by the time we peak out at the top, the rain has set in. 

We sit with coffees and wonder at the sanity of people who race the luges in the rain, but even more so, to the mountain bike riders who pay up to $900 for an annual pass to ride the gondolas up just to plunge down the mountain side - the very steep mountain side - even in the rain, and as we are told later, even in the snow!

We hang around for an hour or so hoping for clearer weather, but it is not to be, so we head back to ground zero thinking we might catch a movie - but can't find the cinema, so we head for Mossburn for the night.  A couple of reasons we chose here - it is on the road to Te Anua and Milford Sound, and it happened to have a vacancy - many places are still fully booked. The entire drive along what must be stunning scenery with towering hills and deep gorges along the length of Lake Wakatipu. Today however, through the veil of water they are merely shadows and outlines.  Not fair.

And finally I am gobsmacked at the large number of sheep (and cattle) that they farm per hectare here. Without a word of a lie, there were about 1,000 sheep on a 3 - 4 hectare block.  The rain isn't worrying them, what with their greasy wool coats.  The cattle on the other hand huddle in tight lines at the most protected parts of their paddocks - hides are not so waterproof!

We pull in to the carpark at the Mossburn Railway Hotel to check in and have dinner just before 7pm.  The rain continues and the temperature has plummeted.  The hotel is dry and warm with a roaring fire going. Drinks and dinner ordered and done, we head across the road to their new accommodation units - Wheels and Reels. 
My crumbed Blue Cod was delicious and Michael loved his Fisherman's Basket complete with mussels and scallops!

There is or was another link with home here - up until the 1970s there was a combined rail and road bridge over the Oreti River - very similar (although not as high) as our Dickabram Bridge!

Tomorrow promises to be clear and warm and we are hoping to do a day cruise to  Doubtful Sound - quieter and less crowded than Milford Sound.