Astral (?) legacies

The Milford Hall Hotel is such a pleasant place to be in the morning - the bed is so comfortable that we wake after sleeping like the proverbial babes. Breakfast in their Steakhouse Restaurant overlooks the gardens filled with pale pink (and perfumed) roses with irises and blue pansies - just lovely. We need something a little hearty for breakfast as we are not sure when (if) we will get lunch. After our now customary muesli, Michael settles for scrambled eggs with sausage and mushroom while I have my eggs poached. The waitress initially delivers bacon instead of sausages - but that is an absolute no-no (it gives me the runs - not good if we are planning a walk) so we have to insist that it was sausages we ordered! No problem - cheerfully and apologetically rectified.

This morning is a little overcast, but not unpleasant and in fact is probably preferable to a stinking hot day. For this morning, we are (finally) off to explore Stonehenge. Passing fields of bright red poppies, it only takes us about a quarter of an hour to drive out through the little town of Amesbury and as we feared, as we drive down the hill to the turnoff we can see lots and lots and lots of people at the monument. Stonehenge sits on a triangular piece of land bounded by two very busy roads and, at all times, there is traffic streaming past.

The car park is on the opposite side of the road to the henge and once you have paid your entry fee and collected an audio guide, you walk through an underpass tunnel so that you walk up a ramp and come face to face with the - people! Seriously, as you walk up the last turn on the ramp, the standing stones rise up from the ground bit by tantalising bit. And yes, there are hundreds in pilgrimage around the stones with us.

You cannot get up close and personal to these stones, but rather are kept at a distance of 12 to 50 metres by a low, roped barrier. As you walk around the henge you are guided by the audio guide. This is a very clever way to keep the flow of people moving around the stones - as there are bus-loads constantly arriving. It doesn't matter what language you speak, the stones have a dialogue for everyone. There are school groups, and tour groups, families, couples and singles - all sharing a well-trod path in the grass, learning as they go.

But it is the sight of these stones, standing silent, vigil to history through the millenia that have control. Control of the landscape. Control of the people. Control of our journey. In themselves they tell a story - one of amazing achievement at a time when man supposedly roamed the earth with clubs and crude societal skills. What hogwash! These people had highly developed analytical skills, project management skills and understood their environment far better that we have given them credit. In fact, it begs the comment that these skills lost, have taken mankind a hell of a long time to re-learn!

At end point on the path around the henge sees total strangers talking with each other, asking others to take a photo or two (hundred) of them with the Stones behind them in the photo. As well as the main commentary, there are lots of opportunities to get further information through the audio guide. And it appears that most people do listen to all the information, given the length of time they are holding the guides to their ears!

It takes us about an hour and a half to walk the 500 metres around the henge during which time we take about 185 photos from all angles - using both our cameras. Anyone want a blow by blow guide to Stonehenge?!! It would not matter if I uploaded all the photos we took, they just don't do Stonehenge justice.

Finally we have had our fill and wander, quite dazed back to the cafe near the car park for a drink. Michael then walks out to some of the barrows - the long burial chambers that are in the landscape around Stonehenge. We have seen a number of these in other locations - some long, some round, some horseshoe shaped. But the area immediately around Stonehenge has a concentration far denser than anywhere else in England, Europe or even the world. There are hundreds, big and small, in the surrounding paddocks.

By this point it is after 1 pm and we next head over to Middle Wallop (don't you just love the town names!) to the Museum of Army Flying.

It's the long hot summer of 1940 at Middle Wallop, where pilots of No. 609 Squadron are lounging in deck chairs or lying in the shade from the wings of their Spifires. Suddenly - the shouts of "SCRAMBLE"; "Don't just stand there..get one up!"; "Message from Dispersal: 'Intercept Angels in Red Sector at two-five!' "

However, today there are no signs of those harrowing moments when Britain was against the ropes. Middle Wallop is now host to the Air Army Corps and 2nd Regiment School of Army Aviation. The guttural sounds of Merlin engines bursting into life have been replaced by the thumping of helicopter rotors; and those ghosts of the past have been commemorated in the Museum of Army Aviation.

Where the Fleet Air Arm Museum is rambling, this museum is small by comparison but just as compelling. It chronicles Army aviation history from the early days of balloons, the Great War through to present day. Yes, and I wet my pants several times as well! It's such a great resource, the exhibits are not just restricted to aircraft alone; for there are uniforms and life size dioramas. When I walked into the reception area and payed my entry fee, hanging over the entry door into the museum was a propeller from an Royal Aicraft Factory powered Re8 - (this represented the first of my many dribbles....)

World War 1 section has life size dioramas, which includes: armourers at work; ground crew prepping a Sopwith Pup (YES, an original aeroplane); a tribute to the Royal Flying Corps/Royal Air Force Aces - Albert Ball, Edward "Mick" Mannock, Billy Bishop, Arthur Rhyse-Davids, James McCudden...just to name a couple. Around the corner is a Victoria Cross chapel dedicated to those very young (at that time) recipients.

World War 2 section concentrates on the family during these dark years, whereas the military is represented through those unsung heroes the Reconnaissance, Training and the Glider Regiments. Seeing a Miles Magister and Beaver aeroplanes, along with a variety of gliders including the Horsa Mk1. Korea through to present day, there is a smorgasbord of helicopters, from a 1941 Rotochute through to an Apache Attack Ship. (By this time I'm crossing my legs!)

On the way to the museum, we pass the sign to the Danebury Hill Fort. So once Michael had had his fill, and I had completed another 40 odd pages of Sarum, we left the museum to go have a look at the fort. This one is an earthen bank fort as opposed to a built structure and although it is hard to get an idea of the size from the photos, Michael says that walking around the perimeter wall he surely got a sense of the size and the aerial view in Earth Google sure shows how large it is!

If you would like to know what it is like to live with an amateur historian, with an insatiable appetite - ask Maria! Hill forts, standing stones, henge's and stone circles - if you've seen one, then you haven't seen all of them. Each and every site is different and can only encourage questions that knock on many doors but open only a few. The Danbery Hill Fort is just mind blowing as to the circumference of the perimeter wall mound, and attempting to visualise the fort's arrangement in the 'mind's-eye'. Just as confounding, is the surrounding ditch from which rose the wall mound. The fascination with hillforts is the sheer logistics in establishing such a structure - was it just one clan or several who built them and was the system of rule empirical or oligarchic?

Walking up to this hillfort was a Herculean effort, as the gradient was very steep. The defensive advantages was most apparent when I arrived at the peak - a 360 view all around. Due to a copse at the centre of the fort's interior, it was difficult discern the diameter of the wall mound? So, as with Old Sarum, I walked the perimeter of the wall mound, which took me ten minutes to complete. Archaeologists from Oxford University conducted excavations between 1969-88, estimated the total area of the fort to be approximately 5 hectares.

And then we are off to Southampton for 4 nights. We are staying in the penthouse apartment of the former railway building, The South Western Hotel, right down on the waterfront. This building is something else - with a hue vaulted entrance hall complete with original painted ceilings, gilt edge mirrors and the rest. The bedrooms in our apartment look out over the water through porthole windows (5 floors up!) and we have 6 rooms at our disposal (so we can hide from each other if need be :-D ). Michael cooks tonight - a stir fry with lots of veges - mmmmm. No dessert - one course is fine after weeks of restaurant food!

Oh, back to the hotel just for a moment. The hotel was built in 1868 as the Imperial Hotel but re-named the South Western in 1870. Built with the centre of an open design which allowed guests easy access when arriving or departing at the Terminus Station which was located behind the hotel. The station has long gone, however the original awning is still attached to the hotel and the railway line is still in use.

Were you aware of the connection between Southampton and the RMS Titanic? After leaving Belfast, where Titanic was built, the liner sailed into Southampton to take on her maiden voyage passengers. This hotel also has ties to the liner mainly through two of her passengers: J Bruce Ismay, the Chairman of the White Star Line [which owned RMS Titanic], and Thomas Andrews the Titanic's designer stayed in this hotel when the liner was in port. After the decline in transatlantic ocean passenger services the hotel closed and later converted into the offices of the Cunard Shipping Line in 1962! Cunard had merged with the White Star Line in 1932.

Edward Rutherford - I came, I saw, I felt it too

My all time favourite book is an epic called Sarum written by Edward Rutherfurd. It tells the story of the development of the Salisbury Plain from pre-history through the journey at the end of the last Ice Age by Hwll and his woman Akun and their family. It then traces their descendants and the peoples that they meet with and interact right through to the modern day. It is a huge book - in paperback about 1340 pages and much of it focuses on the building of two of the great monuments on this plain - Stonehenge (and the wood henge) and Salisbury Cathedral - firstly as part of the settlement of Old Sarum and then dismantled, reconstructed and enlarged in New Sarum (today's Salisbury). So with this knowledge, you can maybe imagine how excited I am to be here surrounded by the story and the history here!

This morning I spent some time doing some consolidation of our photos onto DVDs so that I can delete them from the laptop. However, I am still not confident enough in technology to be happy with only one copy on the portable hard drive! I will post the DVDs home when I have completed them all (there will be about 30 DVDs by the time I have completed the pics taken to date)! In the end, it took until midday.

So we set out to explore this story. Being a weekend and nice weather, we know that Stonehenge will be very busy so we head over to Old Sarum - the site of the birth of Salisbury. The habitation of the site dates back about 3000 years, but the greatest time was during the rule of William the Conqueror. The settlement was a sizable town recorded in the Domesday Book. Today, the ruined remains of a magnificent castle, manor house and other buildings can be seen within the outline of a defensive wall while the layout of the first cathedral is visible outside these walls.

It is hard to adequately describe just what I feel as I walk the paths that countless thousands over thousands of years before me have done. Suffice to say, with the words of Mr Rutherfurd in mind, I can 'hear' and 'see' the characters and their kinsfolk come to life. And even Michael, who has not yet read Sarum feels it too. Missing the story, and despite being the current owner of 3 copies (and having 'passed' at least 2 other copies away!!), we buy another copy LOL with Michael showing a renewed interest in reading it - but he will have to get to it before me, cos I intend to start again tonight!!!!

We spend almost four hours escaping into the past before we are ready to head off. But the Romany in the fields below whose forebears probably lived just as they do are not yet ready to depart! And as Michael watches a Mooney (plane) land, swooping across the field of view dashes a Peregrine Falcon. And down in the fields, families picnic with the ghosts of the past.

Next stop is the Stratford Sub-castle just down the road. Once a settlement in its own right it measured only 1 square acre. It is now a part of Salisbury city and this large manor house and its farm are the only evidence of anything here in times long gone. From here, we travel down leafy back roads through some of the prettiest country along the Avon River. Through tiny hamlets with names like Lower Woodford, Middle Woodford and Upper Woodford complete with rows of thatched houses, beautiful gardens filled with fragrant roses and delphiniums and celebrity homeowners - however, Sting wasn't home when we knocked on his door! We asked someone how often they need to replace the thatching on the rooves and the answer is about once in every 25 years - golly, it almost lasts as long as an iron roof in Qld!

Now, there was a purpose to my circuitous route. I wanted to be able to see and show Michael Stonehenge from the 'other' approach - that is, the way opposite to what we would normally arrive at it. This way, you come over a hill and the Henge rises up to meet you from the valley floor. Michael had cottoned on to where we were headed, and I think his anticipation was growing as he was fidgeting in the seat beside me!

And we are not disappointed, not one little bit. Michael, by this time, is making some form of low guttural moan from his seat as the dribble runs down the window. There is half of England filing past, so we opt to view from the car and come back later this week when it is quieter. And all around us throughout the landscape are burial mounds that date back to the time of the Henge and earlier!

Michael's anticipation is now brewing like a pressure cooker and I can see we will spend many hours there!!!! Mind you, you can only file past from a distance. None of this getting up close and personal here (unlike Avebury). The actual famous Henge is much smaller than I anticipate, but the site with a surrounding henge of smaller stones was once huge. Anyway, more on this later in the week.

At the same time that Stonehenge was being constructed, a Wood henge was also erected a small way away. We search it out and although there are none of the wooden logs in place any longer, the holes have been filled with concrete stumps to illustrate the positions of the former. Kind of sad really, because the timber posts erected at Newgrange in Ireland showed much more clearly just how impressive these timber henges were in their day. Still, this one must have been something really special - there were circles inside circles. And it appears that on all the evidence that there is to date, that all these great monuments were linked in some way or purpose.

By now we are feeling quite drained so we head back to Salisbury and the Milford Hall Hotel. We book a late dinner as there is a large group due in at 7:30 pm (it is now 7 pm) and we head down just after 9 pm. The wait staff are looking tired so we hurry to make our choices guided by Simon. Michael chooses the Salt Crusted whole Sea Bass and I have the Lemon Sole grilled with fresh lemon and butter.

We argue over whose fish is better and will agree to disagree - we both seem to want to claim the winner. Both were superbly cooked and presented and absolutely delicious. (Mine wins out for a photo though, seeing that I am doing the blog!) Michael's dessert of White and Dark chocolate marbled cheesecake looked lovely and my Tiramisu was to die for - even though I could not finish it all!

Wow, what a day. We head off to bed with our heads full of stories and pictures we will never forget.

Cheddar, cheese, and churches

Another glorious day has shown its smiling face. We are greeted by Greg with a melodious 'Good morning', then he promptly vanishes into the kitchen to prepare our breakfast. Following the same menu (yes, creatures of habit) as yesterday we break our fast with orange juice and Alpin muesli, then Greg serves us our second course.

As we enjoy our repast, we chat with Greg whom we discover is a poet and creator of many a short story. We idle the morning while Greg reads us some of his poetry and avails his folder for us to peruse. His writings are both very funny and poignant while illustrating those souls who have passed through the Orangery as well as his various life experiences. Breakfast and interlude over we gather our belongings and bid our host(s) farewell.

The car packed, we drive through Bath towards two points of interests: The Royal Crescent and the Circle (this was for Maria's benefit). Mind you, our satellite savvy saviour, Kate, computes our direction as though we were in search of the Minator in the labyrinth! We taken through a circuitous route before arriving at the Royal Crescent.

Now, the Royal Crescent is indeed a residential road of thirty houses designed and built by John Wood the Younger between 1767-1774. Initially these dwellings were occupied by wealthy owners who separated their holdings from common folk by a sprawling semi-circular and elevated lawn. Times haven't changed as the lawn still exists with the masonry retaining wall, and secured at intervals along the length of the wall are signs alerting passers-by the lawn is for the benefit of the bonafide residents within.

This nonsense aside, the architecture can still stop people during their promenade. I'm certain it was initially designed to intimidate, however it still remains among one of the greatest examples of Georgian architecture. To add a touch of trivia, John Wood the Younger had an interest in the occult and Masonic symbolism. Hence, it has been suggested the Crescent and Circus were designed to respresent the sun and moon; when viewed from the air the buildings appear as the 'Soleil-Lune' (Sun-Moon) a masonic symbol....

Leaving the Crescent we make our way toward the Circus. Originally called the 'The King's Circus' and completed in 1768, it was designed John Wood the Elder. However, Mr Wood Snr would not live to see his design come to fruition as he died three months after the first stone was laid in 1754. As you can guess, the structure was completed by Johnny II who did not swerve from his father's original design.

Like the Crescent, the Circus is also an impressive piece of construction which was made available to the wealthy. It was orignally called 'The King's Circus', as the buildings were of a grand design and form a circle which face a circular village green. Another bit of trivia, the word 'circus' was applied as it is a stem from Latin which means ring, oval or circle. Albeit, the Circus is regarded as the John Woods's' architectural masterpiece - you have to see it to fully appreciate it.

Time is passing us by so we head for Salisbury, via the Cheddar (yes, as in the cheese....) Gorge and Caves and the town of Wells. Oh, as we drive out of Bath through its streets boasting its array of architecture, we spy another sort of an array ahead. Well, yes, it is a head...and attached to a body of a lad walking ahead of us...towards wherever - but he is sporting the most amazing splay of hair. Directly from behind the fellow appears hairless - except when he turns his head and your hit by his cranial rainbow! I'm quite envious as I AM hairless!

As Bath recedes behind us...we're on the road again. It's moments like these, I wish I had a rendition of Nelson Riddles' classic theme music which he wrote for the 60's television program: 'Route 66' which featured George Maharis and Martin Milner. However, the green hills, valleys and fens roll on by punctuated with bucolic scenes of cattle, sheep, hamlets and an abundance of 'Red Lion' pubs which must be the signature landmark throughout the south-west of England!

Just a minute, did I mention pubs...then what about cyclists? We're driving through countryside which provides inclines of 16-20% gradients, and there be cyclists. I have to take my hat off to these intrepid bikers who negotiate these roads with pure unadulterated courage and stamina! However, I suppose the one and most apparent omission which stands out to us, is that most cyclists don't wear helmets.... It has nothing to do with any law, or the lack thereof; it's the protection of one's scone. If you have ever driven upon rural English roads, you'll understand our dismay.

As we near the town of Cheddar, the landscape gradually changes from rolling hills to rocky outcrops capped by grassy knolls. These rocky outcrops eventually join into one deep and long gorge underlined with Black Rock Limestone, Burrington Oolite and Clifton Down Limestone. Hmm...and it is called the Cheddar Gorge and very picturesque and which is the home of the Cheddar Caves (a.k.a. the Gough and Gem Caves).

The two caves open to the public are the Gough and Cox, each named after their respective discoverers. The Gough Cave which is the larger of the caves provides the visitor with an amazing excursion through Mother Nature's magic. At the entrance to this cave is a plaque which states an affiliation and sistership with the Jenolan Caves, NSW, Australia. In comparison, the Cheddar Caves may not be as grand nor anywhere near the size of Jenolan's smallest cave, yet there lay a magic which can propel any visitor into a magical land. And half way through the cave we find - what else, but cheddar cheese wheels aging in the controlled climate!

After the Gough Cave we decide to have lunch at the small cafe located near the caves entrance. Lunch was very good value and wholesome:
Pieminister (award winning locally made in Bristol) Moo Pie (Beef and Ale in a cheddar cheese crust) with a rich gravy, mashed potato, and minted mushy peas. (Maria)
Ploughman's Lunch comprising of three wedges of Blue Castello, White Castello, Aged Tasty Cheddar, home made pickled onions, tomato and sweet relishes, and salad - accompanied with two chunks of crusty bread. (Michael)

When we had finished lunch, Maria returned to the car whilst I proceeded make the climb up 274 stairs leading to the viewing tower and then onto the Cox 'Gem' Cave. Small as this cave may be, it has its gems in small pools of water with glasslike stillness, which reflect the surfaces above. Further into this cave, many of the small grottos are used to promote a particular theme from fantasy; and at the moment it appears "The Hobbit" and "The Lord of the Rings" have centre stage! A great experience for children.

Our excursion into the Cheddar Gorge over we set forth for the town of Wells. Wells is renowned for its Cathedral and Bishop's Palace. The town derived its name from (....yes, you guessed it!) possessing three wells dedicated to St Andrew; one located in the town market place and the remaining two located in the grounds of the Bishop's Palace. These wells were renowned for having curative powers during the Middle Ages.

Without dwelling too long on our assessment of the Cathedral, I'll just say that it was breathtaking as were the Undercroft and the Chapter House. Due to the lateness in the day, access into the Bishop's Palace was not possible - however, this edifice has its own moat, draw bridge and Baillie. I wonder who were being protected or excluded?

We say farewell to...ah, Wells, and set off for Salisbury. After a slow journey, we finally arrived at our destination: Milford Hall Hotel. We have managed to get a package booking for £90 per night dinner bed and breakfast - for the two of us! The receptionist explains that we have a £25 per preson allowance towards food in the restaurant for dinner. Add to this the breakfast cost and the room is almost free!

As it has been a long day, we opt for an early dinner and book in for 7 pm. Their Salisbury Seafood and Steakhouse has a lovely decor and silver service by young freindly staff under the careful management of Simon who really knows his stuff. Nice little touches include not having to ask for water, the appetisers of olives, oil and vinegar and bread, a showing of the meat on offer and chocolate buttons with great coffee. There is a 3 course set menu and an a-la-carte option - which we opt for tonight. Following careful consideration (and a closed eyes eenie meenie minie mo) we chose:
14oz T-Bone Steak with fresh rosemary & sun blushed tomato marinade served with hand cut chips and fresh vegetables (broccoli, parsnips, beans) Michael
Wild Boar Steak with Honey, Mustard & Apricot Glaze with those chips and veges - Maria. I had never tried boar before and found it absolutely delicious!
Raspberry Sorbet (Michael)
Home Made Pannacotta of the Day - Lemon and Rosemary (Maria)

Neolithic Man - the precision worker.

After the hustle and bustle of London yesterday and a week or more in bigger cities, it was lovely this morning to be heading back out into the English countryside. The day is again beautiful (perfect one day, b***** beautiful the next!) We leave West Drayton just after 10 am and so, have allowed the worst of the peak traffic to have passed us. The trip to Avebury is uneventful even if slowed by road works from time to time.

Just before Swindon we pass a convoy of army vehicles on low loaders - by the condition of the troop carrier and the tanks we suspect that they have returned from active service - maybe in Afghanistan or Iraq. Sadly as I type this the nightly news reports the deaths of another two British servicemen in Afghanistan today. The other big news of course is the missing Air France A330 Airbus over the Atlantic Ocean with all 230 people on board presumed lost.

We are headed for Avebury, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a site that, like others we have seen in our trip through the United Kingdom and Ireland, dates back more than 5,000 years. There is something so imponderable that just draws you to them. The precision with which the stones have been placed raises more questions about than we will ever be able to answer - the why, how, what kind of questions. And as with some of these monuments, while you look keenly for them in the surrounding landscape, they allude you until, all at once, you round a corner and there they are - close enough to touch!

En route, we are driving down a narrow major road (the A4) with flowering rape seed all around us beaming brighter than the yellow sun when I glance further afield and there is - Oh. My. God. A white horse! You know, one of those that has been carved into the side of the chalky hills. A quick u-turn a couple of kilometres down the road and back we go to Hackpen Hill to take a closer look. Michael walks down the (12%) slope to where the carving is, to find that it is totally open and that if he had wanted to, he could have walked all over it! Of course, he doesn't but certainly gets close enough for some interesting photos. Turns out that they were dug out in 1837 to commemorate the coronation of Queen Victoria.
Back down the road then and on to Avebury . . .

The hamlet of Avebury has grown around and through the Stone Circle over time so that now, the Circle is an integral part of the village - or maybe, the village is an integral part of the Circle. And just on cue, around the corner - there are the first of the stones! What makes this circle stand out are a number of features - its size, the mound, the enclosed circles, the surrounding 'hills' and other mounds, the tombs and its accessibility. The National Trust manages the property and the best thing about this is that it is totally accessible to the people of the UK and of course anyone else who happens to find themselves here. In fact, on the brochure, one suggestion is "... for an unusual place to have lunch why not put down a rug in the stone circle..."!

We park in the car park and walk about 600 m around to the henge so that from ground level you look at the curve of the outer henge. This henge is built upon a huge raised flat area surrounded by a ditch that when first constructed was an incredible 9 metres deep. And all this was dug with antlers. The stones are HUGE - much larger than any others we have seen to date. Sure there was one stone on the Isle of Islay that was taller, but these are not only tall at up to 12 feet high, the are LARGE rocks - and consequently very very heavy. So again we are faced with all the engineering and logistics questions - how did these people who for so long we have accepted to be uneducated and brutish move and construct such a henge?

But we have only just begun our journey of discovery here! Turns out there were circles within circles and avenues of stones leading to them, a vast barrow tomb and a constructed symmetrical hill that so far has escaped all explanation. Oh, how arrogant man has been in quickly dismissing the skill and knowledge of his ancestor. These days are the ones when we just feel so small. It is a O. My. God. experience - all day long!

Once we have a look around the main henge, Michael takes off to explore the rest, while I adjourn to the Red Lion Pub for a pint of Cider and some lunch - Open King Prawn and Loch Fyne Scottish Smoked Salmon on toasted multi-grain bread. Gosh it was SO good! When Michael joins me in a little while he orders the Shredded aromatic Hoisin Duck and Cucumber Wrap. Mmmm mmmm.

After we lunch, we drive around to have a look at the Silbury Hill. Archaeologists have so far been unable to explain why this huge mound was constructed. This in no way diminishes the impact that it has on the surrounding landscape - or on us!

From here Michael walks over and 700 m up a hill to the West Kennet Barrow. While Michael is there I watched in amazement as the breeze ripples the grasses across the hills like waves on the land. And all this in a beautiful English summer landscape with little white cotton clouds being puffed along on the wind in the otherwise brilliant blue sky.

The walk up the incline to the barrow was quite a challenge, and my endeavour was rewarded with a spectacular view of a vista dominated by the Silbury Hill. However, nothing could quite prepare me what I was to find at the very top of the climb. Before me stood a long mound with a final sarsen stone at the entrance, standing at least three metres high. My excitement was overwhelming as I could walk into the barrow's interior. The barrow is maintained by the National Trust who have installed small skylights which shed light into the main aisle of the barrow.

Similar in construction to the passages and chambers of Newgrange in Ireland, one could be excused for assuming this was the work by the same builders. The main aisle doesn't run the full length of the barrow, however, the construction is just breathtaking. Stout sarsen stones supporting much larger lintels, along the length of the central aisle and similar construction of the five chambers. Four of the chambers open onto the main aisle, whilst the five and largest chamber is at the end of the aisle. There is evidence of visitations by devotees who have left flower bouquets in the main chamber. The small slabs of oolitic limestone were used for packing between the larger sarsen stones. Similar to the cairn mounds in Ireland, the interior construction at West Kennet is as appeared over 5000 years ago.

The mound was built up from chalk rubble dug from the two ditches on either side. This barrow was first documented by the diarist John Aubrey during the 16th century, and again in the 17th century by William Stukely. And our last stunner of today was the sight of a long avenue of standing stones lined up in an avenue facing each other and leading to or from the Stone Circle. West Kennet avenue connects the circle with The Sanctuary, another circle long disappeared and with only the ditch outline remaining. Yes, neolithic man rocks!

Tonight we are staying at the Castle and Ball Pub in Marlborough just a few kilometres away. This is another pub in the Greene King Old English Inns chain - the same as the Red Lion today. The room on the first floor is spacious and overlooks the main street - the widest main street in England! We have dinner in the restaurant at 8:15 pm so that we can be upstairs again in time to watch a special on Stonehenge! Fancy that - on the day that we have been to another amazing henge.

Dinner tonight was just as amazing as today's lunch - Fisherman's Catch (West Country whitebait fillets with fresh tartare sauce and seasonal fresh vegetables and bay peas) Michael and Farm-assured roast chicken breast (with a Provencal sauce, buttered new potatoes and green beans) Maria. We followed it with Chocolate Fondant with ice cream (Michael) and Sicilian Lemon Tart with fresh berries (Maria). And while Michael had an Appletiser to drink, I tried a Bombay Raspberry Crush - fresh crushed raspberries in Bombay Blue Sapphire Gin topped with lemonade - too bad raspberries are so expensive at home - this is absolutely delicious!!