Off the beaten track to see Warsaw through different young eyes

Over the last couple of weeks we have seen quite a few of the 'Old Town' centres and done walks through them as well as a couple of guided tours. So we are looking for something a little different to do and Warsaw seems the place to do it.

We had enquired at the reception here at the Castle Inn about the tours available. We were handed a couple of brochures - and then saw a poster advertising
"Adventure Warsaw:
Do you want to see the real Warsaw?
Do you want to feel the socialist atmosphere of the City?
Experience an adventure in an amazing trip!"
See places regular tourist never go to. From an old vodka factory to a pre-war bazaar, from the Praga district to a socialistic flat . . .experience the relicts (sic) of socialism and feel the atmosphere of a pre-war city. Relax in an old milk bar enjoying the best Polish cuisine. Explore Warsaw in an original Socialistic car!"

Sounded great! A 10 am departure is within our limits and a 3 hour tour sounds just perfect, so we ask them to book us tickets. 300 PLN poorer later (€37.50 each) we have our ticket in hand. They will collect you at the hotel we are told.

And so this morning is a little cooler and an earlier start. We need to set the alarm to wake us at 7:30 am - lol, lately we don't rise for at least another hour (and excuse me, why should we? After all, we are on holidays!) The hotel breakfast is limited to say the least so we decide that Subway just down the street might be a better option. The sign on the window says they open at 9 am, but today, everything is a little sluggish and Michael is told "another 15 minutes!" Finally around 9:30 am we have sandwiches in hand and sit in the square outside the hotel to eat in case the tour guide is early. The only other life at this moment are the numerous sparrows and two of the horse and carriage rides who have just pulled in to the square. And gosh, I just love the light at this hour of the day - it is great for photos. Oh, and breakfast for the day for others wandering around seems to be - ice cream! HUGE ones in cones that are filled to the base with the ice cream towering 5 inches over the top of the cone!

After waiting until 10:15 am and still no sign of the tour guide, Michael goes back in to the hotel to get them to phone him. Bugger - he is waiting for us over near the monument. We hurry over and guess that our guide is the dude in the funny looking old leather flying helmet. And yes, for sure, it is Rafał, owner and operator of these tours. He has parked his car at the base of the castle in Mariensztat. We walk down the stairs and sloping path, as though walking back in time. This area (which we had not previously explored) was the first to be re-built after the war. Most of the construction was undertaken by volunteer labour, and most of the area was re-built in the style of what had been there previously. We finally get to the car, a typical Polish NYSA 522. These were made in Poland from the late 1950s to the 1990s. Once we are in, no mean feat for me when the step up is 2½ feet off the ground the back, we are seated inside the back on original seats that line the walls.

Rafał tells us that he has just finished 5 years of study in Urban Planning and could not believe that no-one else was doing these tours. So he saved and then searched for a car like this one in good condition and took the plunge. We are first on our way to the area of Praga across the Vistula River to collect another two passengers. Small world it turns out to be as we stop outside the Krokodyl Hostel and collect Matthew and Julie, two nurses from RBH who live at Herston! Rafał explains that we will come back here later in the day to see examples of socialist flats, but we see our first example on the way to the hostel.

Rafał is proud of his car and gives us all the low down. His vehicle is from the last production in 1994, but still resembles the first ones ever made in 1958. You see, improvments and refinements were never part of the socialist way - function before form! Turns out that the only modification ever made was to move the gear shift from the column to the floor - but they continued to make the column fitting with the hole for the gear shift - right to the end of its production!

We begin our tour proper in Plac Konstytucji (Constitution Square) and get our first real explanantion of socialism as it impacted the Polish people. This square had earlier housed the elite of the Polish society, and in an effort to demonstrate to the people that socialism would mean that they were all equal, many of the former buildings were demolished and in their place, a uniform row of unit buildings were constructed that they showed to the people that they too could live here. Of course they never became home to anyone that was not a party official. The square was widened to provide an area for military parades, but as these were only held once or twice a year, became nothing more than a central car park. But of course the buildings were decorated with the emblems of socialism - statues of the workers for whom the system supposedly turned, so all was supposed to be OK. The buildings were even constructed in such a way as to hide the local churches as they knew to pull them down would only incite the population.

But in a back block, behind all this shining example of the socialist order, one building escaped both the devestation visited upon Warsaw during WWII, and the ravages of the socialists afterwards. We see the beauty that was once the capital of Poland through the picture of this one graceful block, reminiscent of a better time when art deco was the order of the day.

From here it is then around to the legacy from "Uncle Stalin" as Rafał refers to him. We can see the 'landmark' building from across the city - in fact Rafał explains that the rationale was to build something that towered over the rest of the city as a sign of the might of socialism. En-route we pass a photographic wall that commemorates the latest uprising by the Polish people in their endeavour for self rule and independence - erected by a the national bank. But, as impressive as it is, it struggles for recognition itself in the face of the larger, brighter, capitalist advertising banners.

And now back to that landmark. The Palace of Culture and Science (Palac Kultury i Nauki / PKiN) was the 'gift' by Stalin to the Polish people for 'embracing' socialism and used to go by the name of Joseph Stalin Palace of Culture and Science. It was completed in 1955, after a mere three years of major construction work. But the people of Warsaw hated this structure of their oppression almost from the start and just a few years ago, in 1992, managed to change the focus of the building by adding a clock to the top of the tower!

Yes, today was very definitely turning out to be a different style and it was to continue in this manner! We sit in the 'shadows' so that the passionate young Rafał can elaborate on the history of Warsaw and the place that socialism played. Studying for his thesis gave him a good understanding of the mechanics of the socialist regime in building a new Warsaw after the war. Because much of the city was shelled and at least partially destroyed, it provided them with a unique canvas on which to stamp their mark - and he even agrees that some of their planning principles were better than what was before, or to come later even. e hear of the hardships of every day life where it was not uncommon to queue for days for necessitites such as toilet paper. In fact, one of the best jobs was to be paid to stand in line for someone else. He shares photos along with his knowledge.

Then we are off to see the remnants of the Warsaw ghetto while we are en-route to see the city from a very different perspective! There are just a few remnant buildings of what once stood here. Sad, forlorn reminders of a time that for many was not good - shephered into a confined area before greater attrocities were visited up on them. Most of this area that housed the local Jewish population that at the time was the largest concentration in Europe, was bombed during WWII. And the horrifying thought for us is that the buildings constructed after the war, were placed directly over the rubble that was once a whole people's former lives. Thats right - the sites were not even cleared, but rather, formed the foundations for the new buildings.

And that different perspective? Well, we are off to the beach! Yes, that is right, to the beach in the centre of Warsaw. One the bank of the Vistula River is a remnant beach being gleefully enjoyed by the locals on a warm and sunny Sunday. Down we go, esky in Rafał's hands. He sits us on towels as we gaze across the river to a clear view of the Old City skyline from a very different perspective. Out comes some local delicacies for us to try - bread, lard with crisp bacon crackling bits through it, salted cucumbers and of course vodka! Gosh, it was good - and who cared what it might be doing to our arteries!!! And we are having such a good time, that no-one even gets a photo.

Back to the Nysa we head. And off to Praga we go. On the other side of the river from the City proper, Rafał refers to this as the forgotten area. After the war, the socialists moved the poor and the criminals into this area that is somewhere between slum and ghetto. In fact, there are still buildings with the bullet holes that were inflicted during the war still plainly visible. It is only in recent times that there is an effort being made to clean the area up. There are a growing number of artists moving in to this affordable area, lending parts of it a bohemian air. One element though that has been there all along is that of the Praga Orchestra. This monument was erected to honour the members of a street band who used to wander the streets of the Praga district playing not the socialist music, but keeping alive the traditional Polish music. Normally you can SMS a message and the edifice plays some of their tunes, but today it won't work and when Rafał goes to the nearby kiosk to ask why, turns out it has broken over this weekend! He is so disappointed for us that he even sings for us!! Kinda liked that more than any recording!

And then there is the bazaar where anything could be purchased from household needs to guns to passports - all on the black market. And while it is more mainstream today although closed because it is Sunday), Rafał tells us that some locals still insist that this is the same today if you know someone.

Finally he takes us to a traditional Polish milk bar where we sit with the locals and try good local Polish cuisine just like babcia (grandma) makes. There is no milk in this milk bar, and I guess it is the equivalent of our cafes. We sample
Ziemniaczane i pierogi z serem (Pierogi with Potato and Cheese)
Pierogi "rosyjski" z kapustą i serem (Pierogi "Russian" with cabbage and cheese)
Kiełbasa i pikantne Kapusta kwaszona (Savoury Sausage and Sauerkraut)
Kluski śląskie (Silesian dumplings filled with ground meat)
and a form of gnocchi.
All washed down with glasses of delicious home-made cordial based on berries and cherries. A great culinary delight that showed us that it doesn't matter how fancy the restaurant is, you still can't beat grandma's cooking!

Yes a very enlightening and ever-so-cool day.
Tonight we ventured into the Old Town Square for dinner where we could not have been more disappointed. We sat at one of the busier restaurants and drinks orders were taken. Some time later they came for our food order and we got our starters and from then we were ignored. No drink refills, no mains came, and no waitress seemed to want to come near us. So 1½ hours after we sat down we walked out in disgust. And the explanation? Oh sorry, my friend does not speak Engligh and did not understand what you wanted. Do you want to order a main now? - yeah, right - NOT - she had told us in English that there were no ribs left and that the chicken was good. Not a good advertisement. If you want to know which restaurant to avoid, email me, I am not even going to give them the benefit of a mention.

On the other hand, we cannot recommend The Castle Inn highly enough.
Fabulous location - especially Room 11, great service with the friendliest and most obliging of staff. We would come back here if in Warsaw any day!

Happy public holiday, Poland

Poland is a fiercely Catholic country and celebrates a number of feast days with a public holiday. And today we have unknowingly happened on one of those public holidays that is celebrating two events! The Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Wniebowzięcie Najświętszej Maryi Panny) and it is also the day of the Polish army (Dzień Wojska Polskiego), celebrating the battle of Warsaw in 1920.

We slept late as we did not get to bed until well after 1 am. In fact, I slept until 10 am and Michael who came to bed after 2, slept till 11 am. But we needed it - the last couple of days have indeed been very busy!

Once up, we realise that there is a huge crowd beginning to gather in the square. I decide to start work on the blog for yesterday - yes, Friday was an extremely tiring day for both of us! Anyhow, Michael decides to scrutinise the local cafes and eateries to determine which one we would patronise for breakfast...oops, that would be lunch?

While I'm working away at the blog, (including interludes of Scrabble,) the sombre tones of a lone Trumpeter breaks my concentration, and THEN the sound from a marching band? Michael comes back from his reconnoitre cursing as he had not taken the camera. Apparently, the marching band represented a 'Parade of the Colours' by the Polish armed forces. Each of the services was represented: Army, Navy, Air Force and Special Forces; and Michael assured me that they presented a most impressive sight. Later as we were leaving the hotel, we asked the Receptionist whether the parade is a regular occurrance? Our lass advised us that it is not, but today being a national celebration would have resulted in the military parade. Oh, well, what was it that Baden Powell once coined: "Be Prepared." (You'll understand that comment a little later)

As we were making our way towards the market square and lunch, we happen to come across a souvenir shop displaying Babushka dolls. In we go to survey the goods, and surprisingly the dolls are quite reasonably priced. After deliberating over the array of choices we settle on purchasing two dolls - one seven 'nester' for ourselves and a five 'nester' for our beautiful Bella! I think the shop proprietor was pleased as well - tourists who actually purchased substantial gifts? Hmm might go back in tomorrow for a few more smaller ones!

Satisfied with our purchases we continue into the market place where we chance upon a mini-tanker carrying local water. Now we feel the local Polish authorities - WODA DLA WARSZAWIE ('Water To Warsaw') - are encouraging the locals to drink more water? Well, that's exactly what they were doing, handing out free cups of water which was most refreshing.

So now for lunch... We settle on eating at the 'Restauracja Słowiańska' which faces into the market square from the other end. Dining al fresco we are looked after by the very efficient and pleasant Olga, originally from Russia and who tries to apologise for her near perfect English. "Did you learn in school?" I ask. "No,no - just here at work" was the reply. Smart lady!! Throughout our lunch she is run off her feet but always maintains a happy approach.

The restaurant menu is an entertainment in itself. We really enjoy reading it! On the front cover is written:
Specjalność szefa .....? Chef's special.....?
To, co wam drodzy Goście, najbardziej smakować. Smacznego All that you dear guests find the tastiest!
And then there are some of the dishes: Ruddy consomme from our neighbour's chicken ..., Pork neck according to Sopie the Gypsy Girl ..., Trout from a stream, a frying pan, and the plate ..., Fish board titled 'A Chap from the Manzurian Lakes' ... Isn't it great!
I suggest we have a light meal now and a more substantial dinner later. Michael states he is quite hungry and decides to go the whole hog now and something light later. So, lunch consisted of:
Starters:
'Na dobry poczatek' ('For a good start'):
Śledź na dwa sposoby utopiony – w oleju I śmietanie (Herring drowned in two ways - in cream and in oil) - Michael
'Prezekgski ciepte najrozmaitsze' ('Misc. hot starters'):
„Polskie“ z cielęncina i grzybami pierog z okrasą ("Polish" with veal and wild mushrooms, dumplings with filling, pork crackling and fried onions') - Maria
'Kosz pieczywa' (Bread basket) - Both
Mains:
'Drób, mięsa i ryby' ('Poultry/meat or fish')
Filet z sandacza na maśle z prażonymi migdatami (Pike-perch fillet in butter with roasted almonds) - Maria
Placki rozbój nika Rumcajsa z aromaty cznym gulaszem Madziara (Potato pancakes of Rumcajsa The Thief with aromatic Hungarian Goulash) - Michael
'Dodatki do naszych dán' ('Additions to our dishes'):
Kartofle z wody (Fried potatoes with herbs and garlic) - Both
Rozamaite warzywa z wody (Variety of boiled vegetables) - Both
Dessert:
Jabłecznik ze śmietaną i sosem truskawkowym (Apple pie with cream and strawberry sauce) - Michael
Ser tort ze śmietaną (Cheese cake with cream) - Maria
Ah yes, and Michael has Turkish coffee - REAL turkish coffee, the first since we have left home and he savours it.

Wow, what a fantastic meal, made all the better for it being true regional cuisine and Olga beams as we complement her and the Chef. You did a great job Olga, and we hope your employers realise your value. We pay our bill and say our goodbyes to Olga - not before we snap a photo of her for our blog although she was reluctant to do so!

Satisfyingly full after our lengthy lunch, it was delightful not only to take the meal but being able to take our time and enjoy observing the world walk by - and believe me there were sights. Some of them were:
- Dogs...and their owners of all shapes and sizes, but lots and lots of daschunds.
- 'Just Married' couples - lots of them! We counted eight weddings while we walked through the square and then sat over lunch (there are four churches in a 200 metre radius)
- A mermaid - yep, you read correctly! And a very dehydrated one at that.
- Couples dressed in expensive 'bikie' gear without bikes! (there's a Goon Show script in there somewhere....)

Ahh and yes, I now have the summer 2009 trend fashions for all you ladies back at home:
- Wedges
- Synthetic dresses (maybe the East could be setting a retro-trend for the West?)
- fancy thongs
- headscarves on babies and little girls
- sandals with socks for men (hmm, somehow can't see that one catching on!)
- wedding dresses like cream puffs or meringue (7/8)
- velour tracksuits
So Meredith and Carol and Kamala - dust off the old clothes - everything old is new again!!!

We venture back into the thosands of people in the Square and Michael goes to climb the Clock Tower to take some uplifting photos of Warsaw!

After our promenade we return to the hotel for a rest and the blog - well, I rest, and Michael decides to go for a walk uptown to see what's going on. As we enter the building, there are a couple of young chaps busking downstairs. James (saxaphone) and Gregory (trombone) say that their English names are easier for us! And they are very good. Both students, they say that this is an easier way to make some money than waiting on tables. As well as Information and Economics they also study music - keep it up guys, there may be better prospects with this! Both are keen to travel and out come the cards and the invites again!!

(Michael) I said farewell to Maria and set forth with hat and camera to rendezvous with my mate 'Nick'. Oh, that's 'Nick' as in Nicolaus Corpernicus, there is a monument in his honour in front of the Science Museum.

The afternoon is cooling off thankfully, although there are still literally thousands of people about. There are also ample Gypsies around as well, they just drive you insane as they constantly cajole you for cash. I suppose they have to make a living as well...? Anyhow, I join the crowd in a forward thrust as I make my way up town. Now, today is a Feast Day here in Poland, so there are displays everywhere commemorating past heroes and events. I preferred not to take photos, as I would have just spent my time photographing displays. However, I snapped a few picks of monuments honouring a couple of notarians: Adamowie Mickiewiczowi a noted spokesman for Warsaw, and of course Nicolaus Copernicus.

As I made my way up the main thoroughfare, most of the churches were open and conducting mass. Regrettably, I couldn't venture into any of them for peek as they were 'in service'. Passing the gates of the Warsaw University, I serpentined through the crawling mass of humanity and I suddenly stopped short. A changing of the guard was taking place, where in the hell the colour party were heading I had no idea. Albeit, it was a marvel to watch these professional soldiers....they didn't stop for anyone or anything they continued with purpose. The colour party just marched (no, barged) their way through the crowds; and marching in front of traffic causing the vehicular stream to come to a screeching halt! None of this nancy talk - "Make way for the Queens' Guards!"

After watching these fellows strutt their stuff I finally made my way to the monument of Mr Copernicus. What's so important about this cove, well, he was the first to propose the theory that the sun was at the centre of our galaxy and the earth revolved around it and not the other way round. A theologian, intellectual and astronomer; he also instructed his nation on monetary reform. He first proposed his theory of the galaxy in his book De Revolutionibus Orbium Coelestium (The Movement of the Heavenly Orbs), which was received with disdain. Copernicus proposed his theory during the time of Ptolemaic thought and when the Church ruled supreme - "Repent, repent...you are either for us or a Heretic." The monument is a most noble one with Copernicus' statue at the centre of an inlaid galaxy, in front of the Science Museum - regrettably the museum was closed.

After paying my respects to Nicolas, I made my way towards the Ogrod Saski (Saxon Gardens), where the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is located. Bloody hell, the number of people has swollen in last half hour, and winding my way through the living mass was exhausting.

I finally arrived at the square, Miejsce Piłsudskiego, where hundreds of people were gathered around the Unknown Soldier's tomb. Pushing my way through, (...that's how one gets around in Warsaw,) I gratefully reached the Tomb and just in time as there is the changing of the guard. The Tomb is quite impressive without being outlandish, altough I'm quite taken aback by the inconsideration by some people.

Leaving this rather poignant place I sauntered into the Saxon Gardens where there was live performances by traditional bands and a myriad of military displays. The military displays were purely historically based, from the Great War through to the Second World War. Well, this is the nation's national day for honouring their heroes. There was even one display depicting the Polish Air Force during the Great War; with a chap dressed in the uniform of the time instructing participants on how to spin the prop of an aeroplane - very cool.
There were people up and dancing to the traditional music - young and old. It was an overall event which I'm glad I witnessed. Anyhow, it was time I felt I should make tracks to the hotel. Well, at least after visiting the Barbican.

A great deal of expense has obviously gone into reconstructing portions of the old city walls - regardless it's been done in modern brick. The Barbican is an impressive piece of reconstruction which had been rendered as closely to original prints and drawings. Unfortunately, the Barbican's museum was closed as well, however, the throngs of people added to the atmosphere with portcullis to old town opened to one and all.

(OK, I'm back now) Our room has a number of quirky elements - in the windows hang cutouts of hands used to frame sight a view - and what views they frame across the Square. Behind the door in to the room is a life size cut-out of a Jack Russell Terrier - I think he is meant to be guarding our stuff, but all I can think when I see it, is a stupid joke that Michael once found so funny about a dog in a bar doing tricks! There is a faux crystal ball chandelier and crystals hang from the bedside lights. We are in a magnificent walnut inlay bed and have a huge and beautifully laid out bathroom (complete with bidet - that's coming in handy for the smalls!!)

And dinner tonight? Well after the lunch we had neither of us was really hungry, although I did get peckish later in the evening. All day we had watched people queueing to buy snacks at a window down below us, and so later I got a Zapiekanka z pieczarkami - this is a long thin bagette sliced in half down the length and then loaded with sliced mushrooms, then cheese. It is placed under a broiler until the cheese melts and then the whole thing topped with tomato sauce - surprisingly good! This is followed by a huge waffle on a cardboard square that is topped with whipped cream (unsweetened) and tinned fruit salad. Yu-um!

Hi ho, Hi ho, it's off to the mine we go !

Thank god. We have finally managed to make direct contact with Michael's mum. She has been very unwell with the flu and staying with Maria and Robert. It makes it easier for us knowing that they keep such a close eye on her and are so good to her. They will never really appreciate just how much we value what they do for her (and us). Thanks guys - you are worth your weight in gold.

And so today we are off to the mine - not the gold mine unfortunately, the Wieliczka Salt Mine. We start though with the Cloth Market Square in Kraków. The Cloth building is a wonder in itself; architecturally and aesthetically appealing. Seeing this building in the centre of the market square (from up upon high, I'll get to that shortly...) surrounded by throngs of people, one can visualise those artists and artisans, traders and brokers from ages past plying their various trades. It must have been as exciting as Kraków's centre is today. However, the roof line is adorned by sculptured heads in various expressions of mirth or jeers - welcoming passers-by to enter if they dare.

Now, the view of the Cloth Market hall and indeed the rest of the Square is just stupendous. Michael has climbed the City Hall clocktower to get some great views not only of the Square, but beyond to other areas of Kraków as well. You can really appreciate the size of the square and in the minds eye, can see the traders from eons past jostling and shouting, contradicting and trying to out-bid each other as they desperately try to maximise their incomes! Those twin towers you can see are of the St Marys Church.

And what a church this Kosciól Mariacki or Church of Our Lady or St. Mary's Church is! We feel that we now know what the interior of the old churches looked like. All others that we have seen have small pieces of their original wall decorations intact, but most lost. This one is different - it is such a vibrant place, filled with warmth and light - even though it is quite dark. The walls have been maintained since it was constructed in the 12th century. It is almost impossible to describe in words the amazing beauty of this place.

There is not one space that is not painted or decorated in some rich fashion - all under a starry blue vaulted ceiling that recalls the starry heavens above. And the crowning glory so to speak is the altar retable - a huge timber construction. This magnificent 15th-century wooden altarpiece is by the master carver Wit Stwosz (Veit Stoss). Incorporating more than 200 carved and painted figures, this huge work of art depicts the Dormition of the Virgin while also showing medieval life in detail. Carved in 1477-89 and about 13 metres high and 11 metres wide, it is the largest piece of mediaeval art of its kind in the world.

It has four wings with the outer two being fixed. When closed, the scenes depict Mary's sorrows. But when the two centre panels are opened, it reveals Mary's joys as well with figures 2.7m high! The altar is opened daily at noon and we were lucky enough to be there when a nun solemnly approached and to a fanfare slowly opened the panels to the collective gasp of us and those all around.

Another major highlight is the lone trumpeter in the high tower, who plays a strange hourly call known as the "Hejnal Mariacki." Ringing out to mark each hour, it breaks off on an abrupt half-note to commemorate an unknown bugler who was struck in the throat by a Tartar arrow as he tried to warn the city of the invaders. As there were queues to buy tickets to have a look at the Church, we almost gave it a miss. Boy, are we glad we didn't - it was one of those rare masterpieces we will never forget.
And today, Michael is collecting the stickers that you buy to permit you to take photos!

Hi ho, hi ho its off to the salt mine we go!
The Salt Mine in Wieliczka is supposedly 13kms and 22 minutes from Kraków, but whoever timed it did not make allowance for the miles and miles of traffic jams. It took us just under the hour to drive those 13 kms! Once there, we paid for our parking (7 PLN for as long as we are there = €1.75). A walk up a gardened hill brings us to the entrance - and another queue for tickets. The wait isn't too long and we begin another wait for enough english speaking tourists to warrant a guided tour beginning. Not long, its only another 10 - 12 minutes and we set out. Many of the locals we have spoken to in the past week or so have all told us that we must not miss this mine.

Our guide is the lovely Izabella (yes, with the same spelling as our little grand-daughter!) She explains the WH&S apects to us before leading us down down down. Down an intial and never-ending 378 steps in tight turns of 7 steps. Wooden steps in a shaft (the Daniłowicz shaft) that was sunk in 1635 - 1640! And this just takes us to the first level at 64 m underground. During our trip, we will progress to 135 m underground! Salt was mined here at Wieliczka from the Middle Ages until 1996. Nowadays, this facility is just a tourist operation - one of the best known in all of Poland and with around 1.2 million visitors a year.

I won't go into all the details - if you want to know the history, click on the link above - it is very interesting. But I will tell you a few things. Much of the bracing is original. Huge timber logs lain one on one in a criss-cross pattern that have been here for hundreds of years. And they look like they were laid yesterday. Izabella puts it down to the preserving aspect of the salt that has now impregnated these logs. The air is very dry and is used in the treatment of respitarory and pulmonary conditions (but she explains later is not great for the guides throats!) in a natural micro-climate that cannot be replicated above the ground. Izabella tells us that our visit to the mine today, breathing the beneficial air, will add three days to our lives - so breathe deeply everyone!

But most of us have not come to 'take the airs', but rather, to see the work of the miners who over time have carved out of the solid rock salt, the most amazing statues and chapels. We are constantly reminded that nearly all these works have been done by the miners - not trained artists (and we need the reminding!) There are statues and panels and chapels galore - I guess that the early miners in particular knew how hazardous their jobs were, albeit well paid, and needed to pray for or give thanks for their safety.

And from an organisational perspective the tour has been set up to display the history and workings of the mine and indeed the tools of the miners over time. We see how they went from using picks and hammers, hauling the salt by hand in barrells, then on rails and carts (dog carts because of the 'barking' sound they made when pushed over the timber rails) and then finally using horses that were lowered by straps (and later in timber crates when the 'lift' system was installed) and spent most of their lives underground. Guess that they must have lived a very long time!!!

We see the primitive but effective timber drains constructed to keep the water that seeps from the surounding sandstone away from the rock salt. We see the huge timber winches that were used to lift first ground salt, and then later, larger and larger blocks of salt to the surface. In times past, salt was as valuable a commodity as gold! One 3 ton block of rock salt was the equivalent value of a village! We see created brine lakes, one of them 9 metres deep, but so clear that you can see the złoty coins on its bottom that people have tossed in with a wish. (Michael added one too, but won't tell me the wish.)

But mostly, we admire the artistic works of the miners. The most impressive are two:
The Janowice Chamber that tells the legend of the finding of salt in the region; and
St Kinga's Chapel that is dedicated to the patron saint of miners. Now, this is no little chapel that you might peer in to. It is a massive chamber that measures 54 metres long, 18 metres wide and 12 metres high! All carved from the walls of the chamber excavated for salt. The floor is polished to a high sheen - by the feet of the millions of people that have walked over it. And this work is attributed to just three miners, who in succession, over a total period of 70 years carved this elaborate and elegant chamber.

So, 800+ steps and 2½ kilometres and 3 hours later my hip and legs are screaming at me, calling me every name under the sun! But it has been worth every cramping fibre. The work of those miners is inspirational. And really, I am not complaining too much - the early miners carried the salt out in barrells on thier backs up short, narrow little steps that they cut into the rock salt face - NO handrails, no nothing!

And now? Well, now we head for Warszawa (Warsaw), the capital of Poland. A longish drive ahead of us 4:45 hours. Huh! The horror traffic jam we crawled through on ouy way to Wieliczka is still in existence as we leave as this pic shows! Those roadworks just go on for ever and ever and ever. You get a run of full speed for maybe 20 or 30 kms and then we are back to a crawl - sometimes at 40 kph for another 20 or so kilometres. And so, you can imagine what that does to the traffic - it bunches it up, creating even slower stretches. Through the edges of some towns, we are lucky to do 10 kph! But believe us, they desperately need to be working on these roads. The ruts from trucks run for most of the trip in the outside lane - I mean real, deep ruts. Its impossible to show with a photo just how bad they are.

At every road crossing, or small town (like every 4 - 5 kms) we have to slow down. Many don't and pay the price. Every second one is equipped with a speed camera, and today every other one has a policeman with a mobile radar waiting for those trangressing motorists. And I am not exaggerating - every other one. And they are reaping in the fine income as though they are printing the złoty bills themselves!

So the trip lengthens, time and time again. It eventually takes us just over 6 hours and we arrive at 10 pm, totally stuffed. We check in to our accommodation at the Castle Inn after parking the car about a block away (phew) and are shown in to the most amazing room. We are on the corner room with three huge windows looking out over the Warsaw New Town Square with the Royal Palace a spit away. Oh wow - so magic!

But no time to sit and gaze. We need to find somewhere to have some dinner. There are a couple of restaurants facing the square that are still open. As we get downstairs, one is closing and so we stop at the first one that is still open - Restauracja Przy Zamku. On enquiring if there was still time to have a meal, the waiter says "Sure!" What luck, we have happened on a really nice restaurant and when we are having trouble deciding (at so late, I am having trouble just putting one word before the other!), Robert, our waiter suggests that we have just a main. Some more knowledgeable advice and we finish up ordering:
Sola na asparagus łóżko z kurkami, podawana z ryżem (lemon sole in chantrelles and asparagus bed served with rice) Michael
Polędwica ͵͵Zygmunt IIIʹʹ podawana z kurkami duszonymi w śmietanie I ziemniakami opiekaymi (Beef fillet “Zygmunt III” served with chantrelles in cream and deep-fried potatoes) Maria which I wash down with a small (but still expensive) bottle of Châteauneuf de Pape (Domaine Barville, 2005 Grenache, Syrah & Mourvèdre)
The food is delicious - up there with the best we have had on our trip. By the time we have our meals it is almost midnight and closing time, so we skip dessert and just have coffee.

And so to bed . . . another Ab Fab day!