Berlin or Bust

It is proving very difficult to find some affordable accommodation in Berlin.
Not only are the World championship Athletics being held there this week, but it also coincides with the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall - so now I am really determined to find something. Kind of bittersweet for me - Dad was in Berlin at the fall of the wall, and 20 years later, here are we.

Gosia from Fancy House here in Poznań is being a true friend. She has offered us our room in the apartment for another night - free, as her gift to us. Now, how lovely is that! Just goes to show the kind of people we are meeting. Thank you Gosia, we really love it here and another night is just what we need! There is still so much to see.

The weather today took a turn for the less comfortable. Yesterday was just delightful - a top of about 23°C and lovely and sunny. Today on the other hand, is lovely and sunny and 32°C! What a difference the juxtaposition of those two numbers makes! We begin the day by stubbonly refusing to believe that we can't get reasonably priced accommodation in Berlin - and guess what - it pays off. Well, it's still more than we really want to pay and slightly over our budget, but it is doable at least! So we have booked Berlin and hope to get there before it is dark tomorrow night.

Then it is off to the Old Town Square again to have some lunch and do that Military museum (lol). Lunch first as we don't want to miss out. We sit down at the Fenix as they at least are doing meals (quite a few of them are glorified bars) and after checking out a very international menu (it seems everything except Polish), we settle on:
Trout from the Grill (Michael) and Chicken Shoama (Maria). Both are served with Mcfries and grated beetroot, grated carrot and grated cabbage salad. Quick and tasty, but not one for the recipe books!

Lunch over we walk over to the Wielkopolska Military Museum housed in the back of that building that I think was once the market hall. It documents the history of the Polish military from the 11th century. Not my cup of tea, but Michael's cup floweth over! And I am sure that Antony would have found it interesting as well. This is a relatively new collection as the original was all but decimated in WWII and they had to seek items to replace those lost. Yep, its a bloke thing, I'm sure.

But the main aim of today was to see the Cathedral. Situated on Ostrów Tumski, an island in the Odra River. Today the land has been reclaimed. The first church on the site was a timber one built in the 10th century and the Cathedral as it is now seen dates back to 1241 - yes in brick, a la Roman style! When we first try to enter, there is a priest tying the doors shut, from the inside! We assume that there is a service on that he doesn't want distrubed, but it turns out that he is just trying to fit a new locking arm!

Once we are inside, we have to let our eyes become accustomed to the dark. There is not a single light on and with stained glass windows, there isn't too much natural light either. But as dark as it is, it's not at all gloomy. This is a very elegant building - beautifully proportioned, long and narrow and with a very high nave. Its much simpler than the baroque Parish Church too, being constructed primarily of red brick with the occasional alternation with a black brick.

And there are many beautiful artworks and artifacts in this church. The pick though must be polytech that adorns the high altar depicting Mary surrounded by female saints and the 'Golden Chapel' in the presbytery behind the altar which was designed as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs. At its base is a stunning mosaic floor while the dome high above is similar to many others we have seen in the more extravagant offerings of the baroque churches. Of more interest to me is their collection of brass grave plates that have been erected on the reverse of the columns - oh for some wax paper and a crayon - they would have made the most wonderful rubbings!

And now for something totally different. Chris and Gosia again have given us a huge tip - it's wonderful to have local knowledge that is not just restricted to the tourist office whose employees assume you just want to see the highlights. But for us, being so long on the road, it is the places special to the locals that draws our interest just as much. About 25 kms outside of Poznań there is the Palace of Rogalin. Once the home of the ruling class, this is now one element of the Polish National Museum housing artworks and interiors. But it has been closed for renovation for the past two years.

But we have not come here to look at the Palace, stunning as it is. The biggest cluster of old oak trees in the whole of Europe is in Rogalin. Rogalin Park and its surroundings are well known because of the old oak trees – about 950 trees. The oldest ones are about 600 years old. The most well known of the trees have been named Lech (trunk circumference: 9.3 m), Czech (8.1 m) and Rus (6.7 m). While we only see a small percentage of the trees, they are majestic and beautiful. With their strong, straight trunks and shady arbour they are a joy to be within on a hot summer afternoon. And it even looks like the Australian Aborigines might have visited at some time! One of them has a distinct scar similar to that created in our mighty gum trees when bark was cut for canoes!

After our little promenade we stop in at the dwa pokoje z kuchnią in the grounds of the Palace for a refreshment. Coffee and sparkling mineral water with lemon slices and fresh spearmint go down a treat. As does the Pierogi ruskie (serwowane z kwaśną śmietaną) – Russian-style dumplings with sour cream (Michael) and Naleśniki z musem jabłkowym I cynamonem (Pancakes with apple mousse and cinnamon) for me! Needless to say, neither of us want any dinner tonight!!

On our way to Rogalin we drive out through a very rural area with a number of small villages. Then you enter the forest drive and there are lots of tracks headed into parking areas for walking tracks (we presume). And at the head of one of these tracks we see a young girl - just standing there. Didn't think all that much of it, until we see a few more - all at the head of another track. Can you believe this - the ladies of the afternoon (read night there) are out plying their trade! Can't possily imagine who would travel that far!!!! I mean, the local population might support one, but we saw seven or eight! And none of them appeared to have a vehicle - maybe they are bussed out! I'll bet that none of them made any money today.

Driving back we follow another route - I mean, why go over the same territory? Along this road there are village after village after village - no sooner are you out of one when you are in the next. So much so that if you missed the town names, you could be forgiven for mistakenly believing this was part of a city stretching out. And the most noticeable thing? There is not ONE street paved other than the long main road snaking between them. Not one. You can understand therefore that some members of the local community feel jaded enough to use empty fences for messages!

So tonight we are re-packing and trying to organise all the brochures and booklets we have collected lately to post home. And wrap a babushka doll for a special little girl so we can post it home to her also. I'm sure it will fascinate her at an age when they start to want to discover more and more. Next message from Berlin. We will spend much of the day travelling but hope to get to see some more of the wooden churches that this part of Poland is known for. Auf Wiedersehen.

Back to the future

Its so nice staying in a local building with windows that you can open for a fresh (and brisk) breeze! None of this 'locked-in-a-hotel-airconditioned-room-that-could-be-anywhere-in-the-world' if we can help it!

We wake with the city waking around us. The sounds of everyday life - a garbage truck, cars rushing on the cobblestoned street below. The building door shutting and a car starting - oh damn, he has forgotten something and rushes back inside briefly. And as we have our breakfast, a local resident is raking the leaves up from the lawn below our balcony. No matter where we are, life progresses just the same. Reassuring really!

First on the agenda this morning is a stroll through the Old Town. Once we manage to just drive into an empty parking space (thank you Frances), we first visit what is locally called 'the Parish Church'. Its full name is Kościół Farny Sw. Stanisława Biskupa (Parish Church of St Stanislaus) and it is known as one of Poznań's most impressive historic monuments. It was created as a Jesuit temple in the 17th century and has works of art by the best roman baroque artists. What is surprising is the interior space that although surrounded by typical heavy baroque works, retains its openness and airiness. And the colour is warmer than we have found in most of the baroque churches we have seen thus far - pinks and rich browns. And never ever believe it when a local tells you that their city is not a tourist destination - just as we arrive at the church, not one but two tour groups also arrive - one French, one German, with their respective guides trying hard to be heard over each other. And there are lots of smaller family groups too. And lots of locals inside, in reflective prayer. Yes, Poland is safely and staunchly Catholic.

Next it was over to the market square. Now this is one really big square - but with a bit of a difference - there are a series of buildings in the centre of it! Right in the centre is the Town Hall with a highly decorated facade and a magnificent clock tower. We are told that there is a great show at 12 noon daily once the clock has struck, so we will be back to have a look. Around the perimeter of the square today you find cafe after restaurant after bar. All have tables under large market umbrellas set outside their shops so that the square is ringed by people at tables looking inward to the people in the square. Many of these buildings are covered with intricate sgraffito and many too have fancy shingles hanging from their walls. We have enough photos of shingles to dedicate a whole book to them!

Beside the City Hall there are a couple of other buildings in the square centre. One must have once been the market hall as it is surrounded by an arched arcade. Maybe the buildings above these once housed the merchants. Michael demonstrates just how narrow some of these houses are. Bit too cramped for my liking I must admit!

And the Square is filled with statues and monuments - there are five fountains that house major statues - most of them from the classics. There are even elaborate statues on the top of the City Hall and a couple of the other buildings facing in to the Square.

So we wander, gazing into the shops and marvelling at the work of artisan craftspeople of days past. There is a Military Weapon Museum in one of the buildings in the centre of the square too. Unfortunately its not open today (whew I silently breathe!) so Michael must be content to look at the display boards set up that focuses on the Polish Independence Day declared in 1919 as an aspiration for Polish independence from Prussia at the time. The parade of the army camped nearby must have been stirring to say the least which was followed by a huge field Mass. The dislay also shows people of note from the Poznań area. As we walk back around to the face of the City Hall, we see one of those moments that belongs in some old slapstick movie - there is this building that is being renovated and on the scaffolding on four levels there are four workers, each identically dressed in dark blue overalls and bright yellow safety helmet. They all stand directly above one another, leaning on the railings, looking down. Ah, its ok - they are passing further scaffolding materials up each level to the top - but gee, it looked so funny!

Its now 11:40 am and if there was a single tourist in Poznań today, then they have all made a bee-line for the Square outside the Town Hall. Now, the show isn't until 12 noon, but no-one wants to be late! There are those French and German groups and they are joined by a smaller Japanese group, there are mums and dads with their kids, there are young lovers, and older couples too. The place heaves with people. Right on the stroke of twelve, everyone looks skyward to the set of doors just above the clock face. And once the bells have tolled the magical hour, those little doors open and two bucks (male goats) emerge slowly from their housing until they are fully on show, at which point they turn to face each other and promptly begin to butt heads - twelve times exactly! They then recede back into the safety of their little enclosure and just as quickly as it congregated, the crowd heads off to other places.

And then there is the guy who is just hanging around! From a huge bra!! I think it must have something to do with advertising the fact that the band Radiohead are coming to a festival in Poznań in a few weeks as it hangs between two posters. Hmm local curiosity I hope - doesn't do much for me, but as you can imagine it got Michael laughing!

Next, we are off to Biskupin - a drive of about 100 kms to the north-east. Both Chris and Gosia have told us that this is somewhere really worth a visit. And they were very right. We program Kate to take us off the motorways and so get to see a bit more of rural Poland. This is open wide and flat country and the farmers are busy harvesting and baling hay, ploughing the land and applying that stinking liquid fertilizer from the back of tankers pulled by tractors. And the towns we pass still exhibit the influence of the former socialist government in the form of those drab apartment blocks.
Once we arrive at Biskupin and park the car where the lass taking the money spoke no English, and us no Polish (it's OK, a hand holding up 5 fingers is easily interpreted correctly as 5 złoty), we decide to eat before exploring. Again, it was all dutch to us all, but shaslick is the same in both languages and they were good. Very delicious!

Now, Biskupin is one of those treasures that would have been lost for all time were it not for the keen eye and keener will of a local person. This is the recreation of an old settlement - a very old settlement. Discovered in 1939 by a local teacher who wondered what a regular line of poles sticking out of the marshes could be, Biskupin recalls the human habitation on this small peninsula that juts out into a lake system that dates back ten thousand years with the remains of a deer hunter's camp. Then there is a Neolithic Age house belonging to the first farmers - complete with a nearby inhumation burial, and an Early Bronze Age Kraal - a large settlement surrounded by a series of ditches. All these hae remnants remaining.

But by far the most significant site is a settlement from the early iron age. Fortifications, roads and buildings were incredibly well preserved in a form of peat which slowly built up over the settlement once the humans had left. It allowed for an amazingly accurate recreation of the a portion of the settlement to be done. After a range of dating tests over a period of seventy years, this settlement has been conclusively dated. The oak timber for the buildings was cut down between 747 and 722 BC but over half the trees were felled in the course of one winter - 738-737 BC! So yes, it is old.

The iPod audio guide is excellent and offers much more information. The reconstruction is amazing - using only simple tools as the original builders would have access to. Some of the features uncovered from the marsh included the original gates into the complex as well as remnants of buildings, part of the wall rampart and the road. The impression of the town remained buried deep in the murky earth - there were 13 long houses each containing between 3 and 9 seperated and identical dwellings and it is estimated that up to 1,000 people could have lived here at a time. Oh yes, our early ancestors were much more sophisticated than we give them credit for!

And in the museum attached to the settlement are relics found on site during the numerous excavations - including the skeletons of a number of people found in various burial positions. Yes, the actual skeletons, not moulds. They were a little shorter than us and probably died in the 40s to early 50s. There is evidence of weaving looms, and sewn clothing, of beautiful jewellery and religious icons as well as the anticipated arrow heads and cooking pots.
What a truly amazing site.

From here we head to Wenecja to have a look at the narrow guage railway museum. The museum itself was closed, and the rolling stock on show was fairly minimal and in desperate need of some tlc (tender loving care). But as Michael said, the cost of maintaining such is enormous.

Then to the Gąsawa to have a look at the Church of St Nicolas. Now, this is a true cultural gem. Built in the 1600's of larch wood, local officials asked the regional Prussian government to allow the church to be dismantled and build a new one when it was in bad repair in the 1850s. They only gave permission to overhaul the building when wall paintings were covered with a layer of reed and ordinary plaster, and forgotten for some 150 years. The interior of the church has been cleaned and today the beauty of the paintings is very obvious. The local custodian is very proud and despite us telling him English only, he chose to excitedly chat to us in - German! Still, we got the gist of what he was telling us!

The afternoon is barrelling along so we keep moving, going through Strzelno to have a look at the Church of St Prokopus - a round brick building that dates back to the 12th century on the hill next to the St Adalbert's Hill with its baroque Basilica where the 6pm bells are calling the faithful to worship. And come they do - quite a lot of them. They must get some big masses here because it is broadcast outside. I won't go in because we don't want to stay too long. We drive via Żnin before turning to head back towards Poznań. But there is one last stop we want to make at Gniezno to take a closer look at the Cathedral we had seen from a distance on our way out this morning. This twin-towered edifice can be seen for miles. Unfortunately it is closed by the time we get there, so we don't get to see the famous 'Gniezno Doors' - one of the most valuable romanesque monuments in Europe with their richly engraved bronze doors of 18 panels showing the life of St Adalbert (popular guy, huh!) dating back to the 12th century. Oh well.

And as we return to Poznań we see a new temple in the form of the Galleria Malta. Gosia reckons that it is a great shopping mall - the newest in town, but honestly, seen one, seen em all! You could be in any shopping mall in any city - although open for business, trade tonight is quiet. We buy some cakes and them stop at a chemist to re-stock on bathroom essentials. By now it is after 8:30 pm and we struggle to find somewhere to get dinner. We are both tired and can't be bothered cooking or going into a restaurant in town. We take a fruitless search for a pizzeria and end up with the dreaded Maccas. Oh well, predictable - we knew exactly what we were getting! It tastes just like their cardboard food at home!!!

Still searching for accommodation in Berlin - wish us luck.

Poznan - a taste of a local delicacy!

Well, the storm bellowed and roared angrily around us for quite a few hours last night. Not only was it loud and with a rather impressive lightening show, it blew hard and rained steadily. Thank goodness for double glazing - it was amazing how much of the noise it kept out! And by double glazing I actually mean double sets of doors and windows - not like the double sheets we have back in Australia.

This morning has dawned clear and significantly cooler - something that I for one am thankful for. The hot, humid weather has never done it for me! You know, the more I look around us at the moment, the more I am really impressed with Gosha's ability to put things together well. She has created a little piece of Paris here in the centre of Poznan. The rooms are elegant, comfortable and quirky that speaks of a confidence in herself. The little touches are thoughtful and pleasing from bottles of water and fresh glasses in the table in the room, to the small fresh blossoms in the bathroom. Ah yes, you have certainly got it Gosha! And there is an open friendliness that makes you comfortable straight away. What a combination.

I have forgotten to tell you about the welcome drink she had for us (me) when we arrived. She shared a glass of home-made Wiśniówka with me. Now, most Polish households boast its own "best" cherry liquor, and this one made by Chris's mother has to be up there with the top of them. It had such a wonderfully rich cherry flavour, but was not overly heavy or sweet, but rather 'light'. Man, I could live on the stuff!

Back home, James has arrived in Darwin to stay with Antony and Amanda for a while. It was nice to talk with them all on Skype this morning and to see that his hair and his eyebrow are re-growing! Don't ask - legacies from his mates before he left the Long Island Resort (and I strongly suspect very encouraged by him!) And we even managed to chat with Gen, we haven't spoken for nearly a week! We are really proud of her - she is just about finished her hairdressing traineeship and now that she knows that she enjoys the job, is on the hunt for an apprenticeship.

And from the newsletter from my Rotary Club back home in Maryborough, I thought that this was worth sharing - Ability is what you’re capable of doing……. Motivation determines what you do…… Attitude determines how well you do it….. I like to think that at the moment we are exercising all three!

Gosha and Paula come around to do the cleaning - gosh, we are happy with what we have, but what a bonus. We are able to share some pics of Marborough and the family with them. And how is this for friendly - Gosha brings me a gift! A bottle of Źubrówka Bison Grass Vodka and a carton of apple juice so that I can make the drink I had last night at the restaurant! How nice is that!! Maybe I can share it with her before we leave (hic).

Ooh - that Wiśniówka packs a punch! I have opened the bottle that I bought for the crazy price of 21.85 PLN (less than €6) yesterday. I don't trust myself to drink the one that Chris's grandmother has made (might just finish it!) Ah yes, nice. Very very nice! I am still searching for accommodation in Berlin while Michael has taken a walk. After his late night last night, it was too late to go exploring once he had surfaced this afternoon!

(Michael) It wasn't the Third Man I was looking for - we had lost his trail in Vienna! The afternoon possessed a faint crispness with the sun winking from behind the coasting clouds. I thought of heading towards the Old Town but decided to explore in a different direction - Ulica Głogowska. There as nothing particular or outstanding in taking this route, other than pure curiosity. Leaving the apartment I walked down our street, Ulica Śniadeckich then turned right onto Ulica Głogowska.

This road represents a major distributor within Poznań city limits, and by its appearance - no redeeming features. However, it is a bustle of pedestrians who play a deadly game of 'cat 'n mouse' with the vehicular traffic which is accompanied by a constant flow of trams. Overhead, the skyline is criss-crossed by the 'noughts and crosses' grid of power lines for the streetcars, which appears to be a signature for most Eastern European countries. This isn't a criticism; tramways are an excellent and economical form of conveyance, with the whining and 'ying-yonging' sound projected from the motor compartments and the clatter as the carriages pass over the points.

Although, it is a Wednesday I am amazed at the number of shops which have closed for the day, ie. 4pm. Several of the street cafes and bars are preparing for their evening trade, and I don't doubt there will be plenty of this. In the distance an unusual steeple is making a gradual appearance as I walk further along the street. Eventually, the steeple reveals itslef entirely including the building it is attached to. Yes, you've guessed correctly it's a church (SFX: a mixed sound of applause and moans), but of an unusual construction as it is built entirely of red brick! The steeple's cap is made of steel lace, and topped by a gold sphere and laced cross. (No, the ground didn't open up and swallow me...) Regrettably, I couldn't enter the church grounds for closer look as the gates shut and bolted. However, the structure posed an an interesting piece of architecture.

Moving on from the god box, I happen to come across another building with two forms of 'graffiti'? At ground level the building bears the unimaginative signatures of modern graffiti artists, whereas the building's facade boasts an amazing amalgam of high relief frescoes and moldings. Built in 1904, and not an old building by European standards, however the imagery is quite ornate with the head of the gorgon Medusa above the building's portal.

Consulting my map, I continue onward then turn right into Ulica Hetmańska which develops into a heavily residential area - not a great deal is going on here. Forward then another right turn into Ulica Władysława Reymonta which takes me past the Hala Poznań Arena. A rather interesting piece of architecture; somewhat reminiscent of a prop from a Ray Harryhausen movie!

Moving along I reach Ulica Grunaldska, resulting in another right turn, and I continued towards Ulica Śniadeckich. However, there is a park across the road displaying a monument to some cove by the name of: Tadeuskowi Kościuszki. Whatever reason this chap was famous for, it appears that the name 'Kościuszki' ('Kosciusko' to Aussies) was attributed to many heroic feats in Poland, just as flowing beards were all the go in Ironbark! He appears to have been quite a frightening fellow?

Anyhow, turning into our 'Ulica' I come across another church dedicated to 'Michael the Archangel', built of rendered brick with an imposing circular bell tower and classical portico. There's no activity, the doors are locked and alas no opportunity for a peek. So, I'm homeward bound - well, almost as I near my final destination I notice above the tree-line what appears to be the top of an arboretum.

Following the path which leads me into a large park situated not far from our digs. To my left is indeed an Arboretum, and quite an impressive edifice at that! The sign displays the opening hours, 10:00-18:00, but alas today appears that all doors are bolted against me. There are security guards at the doors barring entry by the public, so obviously something is amiss?

Turning my attention to the gardens which are an ablaze of colour, I take a promenade to admire the garden beds of marigolds, chrysanthemums and roses. At the centre of the main garden is a statue of Perseus holding aloft the severed head of Medusa, turning the unfortunate Titans into stone! Ah, the Heroic Age.....

I eventually arrive at the 'Fancy House' and delve into the small sklep spożywczy (grocery store) next door to buy ingredients for dinner: Perch fillets, mixed vegetables and pasta noodles - th..th..that's all folks!

I'm back and have had a frustrating afternoon trying (unsuccessfully) to find accommodation in Berlin. Hmm. Decision time will have to be tomorrow - pay a higher price, or stay outside of Berlin and transport it in??? We really want to have a look and it is around the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall - so that in itself beckons.

Sooo funny watching CSI Miami dubbed into Polish - except that they have not completely turned the English sound in the background off - and all the voices are done by one person, a male! Female parts as well. Was really funny (or maybe it was that cherry 'cordial' - I drank the whole bottle!)

Polish friends and great food in Poznan

Breakfast at The Castle Inn was good. Very good. And served with a smile to boot. Certainly a lovely start to the day. We are delighted with the hotel and recommend it very highly - I will make sure that Stay Poland are told how fantastic it is too. Great location, great staff - young, vibrant, friendly and helpful.

We are leaving Warsaw sadly. Given that many people had told us that there was not much to see or do in Warsaw, we have had a wonderful time - and they could not have been further from the truth. Sure, the old town here is smaller, but there is still lots to explore if you want to, and it is easier to see the 'real' side of the city if you want to venture beyond the tourist hype.

Before we leave the old city, we call in to have a look at St Anne's Church that faces out in to the square (and one of four within spitting distance of each other). We have not been able to get near it over the weekend - what with the Feast of the Assumption and weddings on Saturday and our tour yesterday. This is another baroque styled church - yet I can understand why it is popular for weddings - although ornate, it has a quiet beauty to it. First founded in 1454, it was reconstructed a number of times and the present facade and interior date to 1788. We have been surprised all weekend at the number of clergy in Warsaw, and in particular at the number of young nuns and priests. This morning was no exception as this group of nuns from Mother Teresa's Missionaries of Charity walking in the street clearly demonstrates.

Anyway, we do finally get away after I get a photo while stopped at the traffic lights of a monument to the Warsaw Uprising. We head north west, making a brief stop at a Tesco supermarket for more water and food for the journey. Oh, and i buy a small suitcase for Paris - see Hels, it can be small and yet functional! Today we are headed to the city of Poznan. "Why are you going there?" asked Rafał yesterday. And our reply? "Well, because it is there, and because we can!" I can't believe how many people pooh-poo another area and say there is nothing to see or do. In reality, all they are really doing is showing their own ignorance.

We continue to pass block after block after block of the apartments erected during the socialist rule - huge, drab, grey and depressing. There are some in the outer areas that have been given a coat of paint in an effort to brighten them, but they remain what they are. There is no escaping that! As we get further into the rural areas we see less of them, but as soon as there is some form of sizeable population, there they appear again. Where there are single houses, many of the newer ones are similar to what would be found in many suburbs back home. Oh sure, they are not the four bedroom, two bathroom, outdoor entertaining area style, but they are smart and modern. Oh yes, and it goes without saying that the roadworks continue!

There are lots of people working in the fields. Sun Smart really doesn't appear to be much of a concern here. There are potatoes being harvested, hay being raked and heaped (yes, fields of it by hand), orchards being tended and fields being ploughed, irrigated and fertilized. For the first time in ages we see fruit and veges for sale on the side of the road. Apples, plums, tomatoes, garlic amoungst others. And everywhere you look there are shrines - on roadsides, at the edge of fields, in front yards and in public squares. At the moment they are all decorated with ribbons and flowers - presumably because of the feast day last Saturday. Yes, rural life is alive and pumping today.

Over the last few days we had been a bit perturbed by the proliferation of bars along the roadside, and the number of trucks parked there. Gosh, to think that those drivers then get back out in to the traffic! But after our tour yesterday, we now know that theses are the local milk bars - serving fantastic tasty local home-cooked food. Just goes to show that local knowledge can counter any first wrong impression - ah, we must stop judging the books by their covers!
The weather is hot and the clouds are building. We soon see evidence ahead of us of a big electrical storm and know that we are headed for it. Doesn't really amount to much once we are in its path - I think it has vented most of its energy already. About a quarter of the way in to our journey we get caught up behind a crash. Don't know how far ahead it is, but we see the ambulance go rushing by. After almost an hour where we move less than 10 metres, I decide to take the plunge and follow local traffic down a side road. Took us a few kilometres out of our way, but when we re-join the main road, we are ahead of the blockage.

By now, we are way behind time - we had advised the accommodation that we should arrive sometime between 5 and 6 pm. So I re-programme Kate on to the dreaded motorway. And this one comes with tolls too. Three toll booths for a total of 28.50 PLN (approx €7). But the condition of the road is excellent and if it were not for the trucks wanting to overtake each other, we can sit on 120 kph easily. Mind you, it is little wonder there was a crash - the Polish drive like maniacs. There were a number of times when an oncoming vehicle had to pull on to the shoulder when it was confronted by an overtaking car. And they just love to sit right on your bumper bar - no matter how fast you are travelling.

When we arrived in Poznan, Kate directed us to a street that ended in a car park, around the back of a derelict industrial area, although there was an entry into some unit blocks. Yes, the street name was what we had written down for 'Fancy House' where we are booked in, but the building numbers didn't correspond. So I re-program her to the same address and she points us around the front of the block. Ahh - there it is! A smallish sign above the entry door.
But if the sign was small, the welcome was HUGE. Chris met Michael at the door of the block and then helped him to find us a car parking space just a few places up the road. He even offered to carry our luggage, but when we are only stopping a few days, we have learned to travel very lightly and not take in all the kit and caboodle!

Once upstairs we are introduced to his partner Gosha and their neice Paulana. Gosha is responsible for this small business and has every reason to be very proud. The rooms are decorated very tastefully and in quirky, pleasing themes. The bathrooms are enormous and just as gorgeous as the bedrooms. There is a kitchen with a Krups coffee maker (joy o joy says Michael) and bottles of mineral water. The kitchen is fully equipped - and with enough to be able to cook a proper meal if we wish. Off the kitchen is a balcony with a table and chairs that overlook a small garden. Oh, it is so comfy!

But the real joy is yet to be had! Chris and Gosha are so warm and welcoming! They have lots of local tourism brochures and are generous with their suggestions on what to see and do. And there are heaps and heaps of things to see in the city and the area surrounding it - so much so, that we on-the-spot decide to stay a day longer! (The fact that we are having trouble finding accommodation in Berlin has helped to influence that too!)

And to cap the night off perfectly, they ask us if we would like to go with them for dinner in the old market square. We have not had a meal since breakfast so are hungry and very happily take them up on their offer. It was a joy to have the local cuisine explained to us by locals! So we go to the Gospoda Pod Koziołkami. After much explaining and decisions we finally choose:
Zestawy obiadowe (Set Meals)
Gołabki loki po poznańsku w sosie pomidorowym (Stuffed cabbage in tomato sauce), March wiowa – marchew, jabłka, rodzynki, pomarańcza, olej (Carrot salad – carrot, apple, raisins, orange, oil), Kluseczki półfrancuskie (Dumplings) – Michael
Zapiekanki ziemniaczane z pieczarkami – ziemniaki, masło, śmietana, jajka por, żółty ser, pieczarki, cebulka (Potato casserole with mushrooms – potato, butter, cream, egg, leek, cheese, mushrooms, onion) – Maria, washed down with Źubrówka with apple juice – best polish vodka from the region with apple juice! Man, was it all so good!

So our meal over, we part company from our newest friends and take a promenade around the square. It is beautiful by night, but we want to come back in daylight to take in all the detail. Chris and Gosha leave for home and their two dogs who will be wanting their company by now for sure. And as I finish the blog tonight there is the mother of all storms brewing around us! The thunder has been roaring for about the last half hour and there is a very acrid smell of burning ozone in the air, so I'll sign off before I risk the computer to a lightening strike!