The rain is not only in Spain

So again I am sitting down to write the blog.  Just like every other day on this trip.

As we arrived in Christchurch, so we come back.  The weather here at the moment is damp and cool.  Today was a top of 17⁰ but the wind made it feel much cooler.  Summer here, it seems, is about as warm as winter back home!  We are told that after New Year it

actually got into the mid 30's.  I know I was looking forward to the cooler weather here before we left, but now, I'm craving the warmer weather back home.  Just as well we are leaving tomorrow.  We began our day down at the bus terminus getting ready to travel up to Mt Cavendish via the Christchurch Gondola.  En-route we see more and more of the public art offerings that artists were asked to contribute straight after the 2011 earthquake when the Art Gallery was damaged.  There are all sorts of offerings from raspy graffiti styled works to extravagant offerings that have contemporary themes.

It was brunch time and the offerings were pretty slim.  We settled on Japanese - Pork and Garlic Chive dumplings and Chicken Yatsu to share.  Really fresh and prepared in front of our eyes.  Yummy as!

We had checked out the bus times and finish our meal just in time to get the bus as it pulls in to the bay.  The Bus Terminus is fairly newly finished and really well laid out.  All buses pull in to a bay meaning that no matter what the weather, passengers get to board in the dry.  Seems to work like a dream with 13 gates available and buses coming and going literally every couple of minutes.

We have had to plan our day a bit better as we are now relying on public transport.  The bus to Lyttelton ends up at the Christchurch Gondola station - very convenient and takes about 20 minutes from the centre of town. Its interesting to have the opportunity to travel through the suburbs and get a bit of an overview to life in the Christchurch residential areas.


The Christchurch Gondola has a route that rises 445 m above the base station over a route of 1 km - almost fully vertically up (or so it seems to me).  Not for the faint-hearted and by the time we actually reached the summit, I was starting to feel it!  Still, the views are certainly worth the little bit of acrophobia felt.


You look out over the Mount Cavendish Scenic Reserve, Lyttelton Scenic Reserve, Mount Pleasant Scenic Reserve and Tauhinu-Korokio Scenic Reserve down over Lyttelton Harbour and across to Otamahua (Quail) Island.  Down over Christchurch city and out to the Pacific Ocean.  It truly is quite a vista.

Michael indulges his sweet tooth with a Cookies n Cream cheesecake while I enjoyed a date scone with my coffee.
Following this little sustenance, Michael set out to walk one of the trails while I explored the Time Tunnel that explained the history of the region. Their souvenir shop was surprisingly affordable - too bad that I have already bought my fill.

The Canterbury Plains are stunning and we are told that on a clear day you can see across to the Southern Alps, but not today.  As we are leaving, the gondola operator tells us that yesterday the weather was so bad that you could not see Christchurch until after the fog lifted about 4 pm, so I guess it is better that we came today.

We followed our trip up the Mountain with a foot trip through the streets of Christchurch finding more of the artworks and some new buildings that are brave and bold in timber and metal and now limited to 6 stories to limit future problems with any more seismic activity.  Buildings now are rated for earthquakes and although we are only on the second floor, I'm grateful the Ramada has a A1 rating! 

The famous Container Mall has been all but totally dismantled now that the inner city Malls are again taking shape.  It is interesting as when you ask where the City Centre is, the common response is that it is changing day by day.

The last remnants of the Chinese New Year celebrations are still up - you need to understand the incredible number of Chinese people who came to New Zealand when gold was discovered.  And as we have found during our stay, NZ is a very popular destination for Chinese tourists these days.



Our last stop for the afternoon was the Transitional Cathedral otherwise known as the Cardboard Cathedral.  The Evensong Service was underway and so I sat in, allowing the choister boy voices to lift my spirit into the cavernous void above us. 

I calculate that the seating as set out can accommodate about 340 people - significantly less than the 1,000 that the former Anglican Cathedral could house. 
Although this building is 'temporary', there is definitely a feel of persistence and permanence. 

After the service, we are told that the decision has just taken to re-build the former Cathedral, although there is not yet an appeal underway.

And nearby is probably the most poignant art installation, the 185 Empty Chairs memorial dedicated to the number of lives lost in the 2011 earthquake.


Back to the hotel just a few blocks away - they have a combined washing machine / dryer so we can do all our washing before we leave for home. It is getting darker now and much cooler. Time to be indoors.

And now, if only the broader weather patterns will behave themselves - we arrived on the coat tails of TC Gita.  Not at all interested in being blown home by TC Hola currently out in the Pacific - or any other one that our home messages are warning of.

Dunedin - a city for all tastes

Another foggy morning, but by 9:30 am the sun is burning it off.  We are high on a hill with the Catholic Church directly opposite- funny about that - the Mick's always seemed to manage to snaffle the best high spots in towns - perhaps 'nearer my god to thee?!!

First stop of the day - Cadbury World!  Our guide for the morning is Christie who is definitely on some kind of upper.  For the sixteen of us she is hyped and happy and high on chocolate.  Everything she says and does has a bubbly 'high five' feel about it.  She leads us through the process of turning cacao to cocoa and then to chocolate including filling our goody bags with all things chocolate. We go through the 'breakfast room' where we can help ourselves to liquid chocolate, adding such things as pretzels, coconut, sprinkles, popcorn and oreo bits. Not really my idea of breakfast but for some of them - wow!

We climb halfway up one of the storage silos (the purple one) and watch one tonne of liquid chocolate fall from a height further up down to the base of the silo!


Near the end of the tour we learn that the factory in Dunedin will close in three months.  I wonder whether this will be her downer?  But no, she is very philosophical about it.

After finishing our visit to the Chocolate caverns with a coffee, we set out to find some of the amazing Street Art that Dunedin is known for.  

We find the first dozen or so pieces and then realise that we are within a cooee of the Chinese Garden and take a detour from the hot summer sun into the serene coolness of the garden.  This is a sanctuary in the city - a green space in the concrete and brick and bitumen!

As we move through the gardens with the wind moving through the willow trees, we spy the Tea House and sit down for a Rose tea (Michael) and a peppermint tea for me.  Coupled them with a selection of buns and dumplings - just a very light snack.  The teas were just what we needed!

From here we head over to the stunning Dunedin Railway Station that everyone had told us to make sure we checked out. This building is a homage to a bygone era of grace and beauty.  

The entire main entrance is tiled, from the small mosaic tiles on the floor to amazing vitreous ceramic tiles on the walls.  There are 3D tile surrounds to the ticket windows and across the top of the ground floor under the mezzanine floor with its cast iron balustrade and stunning stained glass windows.  

Designed by George Troup and opened in 1906, it demonstrates a commitment to quality and pride in workmanship - stunningly beautiful, there are no other words to use.

We visit the Art exhibition upstairs where we have missed out on buying a Green Man art piece (but I have a contact for the artist) and buy a stunning had painted silk scarf for half the price of any other one we have seen in NZ!  Winner!

As the day is closing fast, we head to Toitu - Otago Settlers Museum.  Sited between the railway and the Chinese Garden in a re-purposed warehouse with a stunning new entry building added.  

The people of NZ know how to do a museum.  The layout, the connections and the collections are stunning with enough hands on and interactive displays that mean that the non-touch displays are easily protected. We end up with only about 90 minutes to explore a space that you could spend a day in.  

There are lots of story-telling from the Maori, white settlers and the Chinese perspectives.  The displays take you from the arrival of the Polynesians right through to the new technologies of today and everything in between.

After the Museum closes at 5 pm, we hit the streets to find some more examples of the street art before we stop for some early dinner at a pub chain CBK where I was offered a Plum Cider by Stuart - wasn't too sure I would like it, so he gave me a tot to taste.  Man - move over apple - this Plum Cider by Good George Brewing has plenty of tart and plenty of flavour and none of the over-sweetness of many of the new fruit ciders.

 Michael has a Seafood Chowder and I settle in with Steamed Bao Buns - one each with smoked beef, fish and spicy chicken. Delish.  And Stuart has given us the premium address to view Dunedin from on high for a great view day and night - we'll check it out tomorrow.

And as we arrive back at our accommodation, something wicked this way comes - another sea fog is creeping very quickly, very silently in from the coast.